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John Philip Sousa’s birthplace is a few blocks’ march from his old workplace, the Marine Corps Barracks. “The Washington Post” by John Philip Sousa Meet the Beatles’ first U.S. concert venue, the Washington Coliseum. “I Want to Hold Your Hand” by the Beatles, “Pump Me Up” by Trouble Funk Singing sensation Marvin Gaye graced the stage of the Howard Theater, now vacant. “Witchcraft” and “Distant Lover ” (live) by Marvin Gaye Settle in for an evening of underground jazz at Bohemian Caverns. “Satin Doll” by Duke Ellington The rowhouse that contains Crooked Beat Records used to be a communal performance space called Madam’s Organ (now a bar up the street). “Banned in D.C.” by Bad Brains A young Jim Morrison haunted the fishermen’s pier that was once behind the Torpedo Factory Art Center . “Horse Latitudes” and “Break On Through” by the Doors RHODE ISLAND AVENUE 95 495 295 66 295 1 110 27 110 395 395 395 66 1 1 400 66 Driver’s route Start here Chuck Brown mixed funk with Latin percussion to invent go-go at the long-gone Maverick Room. “Bustin’ Loose” by Chuck Brown The house where Duke Ellington was delivered was torn down to make room for a post office. “East St. Louis Toodle-Oo” by Duke Ellington Georgetown’s Haagen-Dazs store was once a steady gig for hard-core punks Ian MacKaye and Henry Rollins. “Minor Threat” by Minor Threat, “TV Party” by Black Flag When they were unknowns, U2 and Dave Matthews played the Bayou, which was leveled for the Loews (now AMC) cinema. “I Will Follow” by U2, “Ants Marching” by Dave Matthews Band The venerable 9:30 club was named after its original address: 930 F St. NW. "Waiting Room" by Fugazi MARYLAND DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA VIRGINIA ALEXANDRIA ARLINGTON COUNTY P o t o m a c R i v e r M ST. DUPONT CIRCLE 22ND STREET 18TH ST. F ST. NEW HAMPSHIRE AVENUE UNION ST. WISCON S IN AVENUE MASSACHUSETTS AVE. CONNECTICUT AVENUE PENN. AVE. NEW YORK AVE. John Philip Sousa’s birthplace KING STREET G . W . M EM. P K W Y . KEY BRIDGE O ST. 33RD ST. K STREET (BENEATH WHITEHURST FREEWAY) WASHINGTON CIRCLE PENN. AVE. MT. VERNON SQUARE WARD PLACE KALORAMA ROAD 16TH ST. U ST. 11TH ST. 7TH STREET FLORIDA AVENUE T ST. T ST. 4TH STREET LINCOLN ROAD NORTH CAPITOL STREET M ST. FLORIDA AVENUE 2ND STREET CONSTITUTION AVENUE 6TH STREET 7TH STREET G ST. INDEPENDENCE AVENUE L STREET M ST. Bohemian Caverns 11TH ST. 0 MILES 2 Road Trip Swingin’ Through the Music Capital WHERE: Alexandria and Washington. WHY: A lizard king in Old Town, de-funked venues and a military man. HOW FAR: About 17 miles, or one hour with stops. I n Washington, the military and presidents seem to garner all of the big monuments, while the area’s musicians are re- duced to the record bin. But not always. On a magical tour of musical landmarks, fans can pay homage to local per- formers, and as a bonus, we’ve supplied a playlist to help re- create that live experience (see map for song selections). Let’s start at the end, beautiful friend. The Alexandria water- front was a favorite haunt of Jim “The Lizard King” Morrison. Slither down to the dock behind the Torpedo Factory Art Center and look out over the Potomac. “Horse Latitudes” is the only Doors song believed to be based on a poem Morrison wrote while attend- ing what was then George Washington High School in Alexandria. Ice cream parlors don’t sound very punk, but in the early 1980s rockers Ian MacKaye and Henry Rollins used to scoop together at the Georgetown Haagen-Dazs (Cappuccino’s Pizza now inhabits that site). Rollins later joined Black Flag, and MacKaye co-founded local label Dischord Records. Decades later, Dischord is still churn- ing out albums in Arlington. Make your way east to the West End for a quick stop at 2129 Ward Pl. Can’t find it? All that remains of Duke Ellington’s home is a commemorative plaque listing that address. (Hint: It’s next to the post office’s drop boxes.) In 1923 the budding jazz pianist and com- poser split town to form a band in Harlem, N.Y. Ellington called it the Washingtonians. Years later, the favor was returned with the naming of the District’s Duke Ellington School of the Arts. In Adams Morgan, drop by Crooked Beat Records and ask own- er Bill Daly about how hard-core/reggae outfit Bad Brains used to play upstairs in the early ’80s. Then have him crank up “Banned in D.C.” for a flashback moment. Farther east, on U Street, descend into the basement of the Bo- hemian Caverns jazz club and you’ll quickly see why it’s called “the Cave.” The stalactites were one of the club’s signature features dur- ing U Street’s “Black Broadway” heyday, as were such A-list musi- cians as Ellington. Now, the Caverns mixes up the music format, but co-owner Omrao Brown says “every Friday and Saturday night is straight-ahead jazz.” Fast-forward to the 1970s, when funk band Parliament renamed D.C. the C.C. — the Chocolate City. Washingtonian Chuck Brown busted go-go loose at the Maverick Room in Northeast, but before you thump and boom your way over there, note that the club has been demolished. There’s more go-go by Union Station. Homegrown acts such as Brown, Rare Essence and Trouble Funk pumped it up and dropped the bomb at the Washington Coliseum. The venue is now an indoor parking lot, but ask the attendant if you can peek inside. For a swan song, march over to Southeast to the childhood resi- dence of John Philip Sousa, who composed such famous tunes as “Stars and Stripes Forever.” His house has a plaque, but wander over to the Marine Barracks Annex to see his official statue. He was a military man, after all. — Scott Elder Road Trip maps are available online at www. washingtonpost.com/roadtrip, as are addresses and hours of operation (be sure to check before you go). Have an idea for a trip? E-mail [email protected]. MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY SCOTT ELDER FOR THE WASHINGTON POST M8 Sunday, January 21, 2007 DC The Washington Post x WEDNESDAY IN STYLE Escapes visits gay-friendly B&Bs in Va.
