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SOUTHEAST ASIA / DECEMBER 2015 Digital Destination Guide THE BEST OF THE Philippines
SoutheaSt aSia / december 2015 DigitalDestination
Guide
the beSt of the
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D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 | editor’s note
the Philippines would have much to offer visitors. The odd thing then is that the tropical archipelago is so often overlooked when it simply shouldn’t be. So where better to start than a week-long break at a one-of-a-kind getaway? In “Your Own Private Island,” we scour the length of the nation for these isles set aside for insiders and do not come away disappointed. These five personal slices of paradise, each with its own allure, are the perfect break from the norm and will have you fall for the Philippines in a big way. You’ll come away feeling that you’ve stayed with your new extended family, one you will want to revisit.
Of course, there are as many diversions in the Philippines as there are islands. If you haven’t discovered the local affinity for style, then you’ve been missing out. Within this e-guide, we stop in to see designer Anne Marie Saguil (“Filipino Flair”) to uncover what inspires her label—the answers turn
out to be both local in detail and global in scope.
For a peek at a pristine corner of Asia, look no further than “The Next Pride of Palawan.” This is a tale of sustainable tourism and will have you appreciate what is truly special about this archipelago. Best of all, it will make you want to return, which is why this e-guide is guaranteed to come in handy in planning your next break.
@CKucway
F r o m M y T rav el sIt was far too long between vacations and I needed a break. That’s where the suggestion of a private island in the Philippines fit into my plans perfectly. I was the only foreigner on the domestic flight to nowhere, even sat beside the mayor. Arriving at the island for five days of nothing but fresh seafood, cold beer and airport novels, I had made the perfect choice for a break. I won’t reveal where the island is, but the Philippines has thousands of others to choose from.
WITH ITS SWEEP OF MORE THAN 7,000 ISLANDS, IT’S ONLY NATURAL THAT
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Amorita, on Panglao Island, Bohol.
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DEALS | T+L READER SPECIALSFrom a foam party in Cebu to an educational experience for children in Manila, the Phililppines is packed isle-to-isle with fun.
SUPER SAVER
Crimson Resort & Spa Mactan, CebuShoot yourself off to cloud nine with a visit to Crimson’s Azure Beach Club, whose new Saturday activity, launched in October, lets you burn off all-you-can-eat brunch by diving into a pool of sudsy foam. The Deal Best Rate promotion: a night in a Deluxe room, from P6,000 for two, through December 31. Save 60%. crimsonhotel.com.
MANILA & BORACAYDiscovery Group Discovery Primea, in Makati Central Business District; Discovery Suites, in Manila’s Ortigas Business District; and Discovery Shores Boracay team up to give you a complimentary third night at the initial hotel of stay or at the other two properties, including breakfast. The Deal Discovery Philippines: three nights in a standard room, from US$334 for two; book by March 27, 2016. Save 33%. preferredhotels.com.
MANILAMarco Polo Ortigas Feel extra special with exclusive Continental Club Lounge benefits: from a butler to laundry and pressing services that’ll leave you looking sharp and ready to hit the town. Meals are at 20-percent discount, and all soothing spa treatments are 15 percent off. The Deal Sky’s the Limit: two nights in a Premier room, from P9,750 for two, through December 30. Save 25%. marcopolohotels.com.
BOHOLAmorita As a sweet gesture from this Little Darling, the resort’s English name, the two of you are treated to an hour of Raja signature massage, an afternoon tea set, and free yoga sessions if your stay falls on Tuesdays and Saturdays. The Deal Serendipity: two nights in a one-bedroom sea-view suite, from P27,500 for two, through May 31, 2016. Save 27%. amoritaresort.com.
MANILAHoliday InnThe kids get tickets to Kidzania Manila, where they can take on the roles of hotel professionals at the miniature Holiday Inn & Suites, from checking guests in to setting up dining tables. Don’t worry, they’ll be paid, too. The Deal Family Getaway: a night in a Deluxe room, from P5,998 for two adults and two children, through December 31. Save 20%. holidayinn.com.
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Urban whimsy adorns MNL Boutique Hostel.
ON THE MAP
WilliamsburgosManila’s Burgos district sheds its gritty
reputation and sprouts funky restaurants and bars, drumming up an artsy vibe that recalls, STEPHANIE ZUBIRI dares to say, Brooklyn. PHOTOGRAPHED
BY FRANCISCO GUERRERO
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MNL Boutique HostelThis centrally located hostel offers clean rooms, happy colors, bright murals, free Wi-Fi, book exchanges and a “cool-cierge” service for the best insider tips and tourist information. 4688 B. Valdez St. corner Santiago Street; mnlboutiquehostel.com; doubles from P1,400.
Beni’s Falafel At this three-table hole-in-the-wall is the best falafel and baba ghanoush in town. That is if you can find it! Seasoned clients call in advance, get their food to go—and know to ask for extra fried eggplant in their sandwiches. 4364 B. Valdez St.; 63-906/349-1300; falafel for two P270.
Pink PandaThis Southeast Asian diner with quirky décor and great cocktails serves cheeky versions of regional faves such as “Thai Beef and Daughter-in-Law’s Eggs” or the deep-fried tilapia dish called “We Fried Nemo.” GF Y2 Residence Hotel, 4687 Santiago St.; 63-917/839-3790; cocktails and sharing plates for two P1,300.
Two Chic ManilaThis clothing line has the kind of breezy bohemian looks every woman wants. Think graphic tunics and evening rompers with hand-beaded detailing. 6239 Mañalac St., Poblacion, Makati; 63-2/899-2435; twochic.com.ph.
Café CurieuxRun and overrun by Gallic expats, it’s your typical bar du coin: Pastis, Edith Piaf and the scruffy Frenchie barman serving you free shots of their house rhum arrangé while a cigarette dangles oh-so-precariously
A Toda Madre
A Latino sub-culture—first started by the Tex-Mex and margarita joint
Chihuahua (chihuahuamexgrill.com; chihuaritas for two P390)—is spicing up the town with lively new additions. Head to El Chupacabra (5782 Felipe St., Bel-Air; 63-2/ 895-1919; fb.com/el chupacabra; meal for two P280) for some street tacos and cheap beer. Pop over to Señor Pollo (5767 Ebro St., Poblacion; 63-2/831-6945; fb.com/senorpollo ph; meal for two P370) to wipe out a plate of roast chicken with chimichurri, spicy rice and Latin American slaw. End your night with tequila shots from
A’Toda Madre’s (63-998/999-1521; atodamadre.com.ph; shots for two P500) vast collection of añejos and reposados before zigzagging your way to Chihuahua, where it all began, for their famous chihuaritas and Salsa Project Saturday party.
ARRIBA ARRIBA!
from his mouth. Bel-Air Soho Bldg., Polaris Street corner Badajos Street, Bel-Air; lecafecurieux.com; Pastis for two P170.
KishA haven for the beautiful and luxe, curated by globally acclaimed designer Ito Kish. There’s furniture including the award-winning Gregoria chair of his own design, modern Kiwi sky planters, and brass table accessories from India. 233 Nicanor Garcia St., Bel-Air; kish.ph.
HeimaThis “Live happy, beyond ordinary” lifestyle and design store embraces all things cheery. LRI Design Plaza, 210 Nicanor Garcia, Bel-Air II; heimastore.com.
Beni’sFalafel.
Pink Panda.
Two Chiic Manila.
Kish’s Gregoria chair.
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8 D E C E M B E R 2 0 1 5 / T R A V E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A . C O M
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Kenneth
Cobonpue, striking a pose between
winning design awards; hitting a
sweet spot at The Tinder Box; all sorts of gluteny goodness
at Abacá Baking Company; The Henry Hotel’s funky rooms;
up close and personal with whale
sharks; The Man Holding Driftwood by
Orley Ypon at Qube.
STAY The Henry Hotel (thehenryhotel.com; doubles from P4,200) in Banilad is a hip, quirky boutique. I recommend it to friends because it’s walking distance from The Spa at Cebu (thespacebu.com) and some of the city’s best restaurants, including their own—Rica’s. Abacá Boutique Resort (abacaresort.com; doubles from P15,900) in Mactan nearby is still the best beach hotel.
EAT + DRINK Just opened is the Abacá Baking Company (theabacagroup.com; coffee and pastries P320) with great fresh pastries. Kanyoen (GF Castle Peak Hotel, F. Cabahug Street, Mabolo, Cebu City; 63-32/232-2989; lunch for two P500) in Mabolo has the best yakiniku in the city. Although I’m not much of a lechón fan, one can’t go to Cebu and miss out on the crisp-skinned porker: Rico’s Lechón (ricos-lechon.com; whole roasted pigs from P3,200) and Zubuchon (zubuchon.com; half-kilo from P300) are my recommendations. + For a glass of wine, head to Z Bar (drinks for two P500), which I designed seven years ago, on the mezzanine of newly renovated, local-favorite The Tinder Box (Archbishop Reyes Avenue corner Bauhinia Drive, Banilad, Cebu City; 63-32/234-1681; dinner for two P2,000).
BUY A few small and independent companies make beautiful things, use indigenous crafts, and champion social causes at the same time. Among them is Anthill Fabric Gallery (anthillfabricgallery.com), which sells artistic fabrics and accessories. + Check out Qube Gallery (qubegallery.ph) for local art and the Carbon Market (M.C. Briones Street, Cebu City) for indigenous baskets and handicrafts.
SEE + DO A four-hour hike at Canso X (510 Brgy. Cansomoroy, Balamban; 63-32/411-1600; hiking P200 per person, entrance P50 per person), which is an hour-long drive from the city, refreshes you with spectacular views of the hills and surrounding islands. + A banca cruise with Islands Banca (islandsbanca.com; island hopping for 10 from P6,500) is a must. Another favorite is whale watching, a few hours away at Oslob where you can get up close with whale sharks. However, the best part about Cebu is still its proximity to great beaches in nearby Bohol, Malapascua and Bantayan. — STEPHANIE ZUBIRI C
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Cebu by the SeaFilipino furniture designer KENNETH COBONPUE has made a name for himself through his use of local materials and traditional techniques.
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Loading up the banca for a day of fishing.
Ticao Boys A low-key island in the Philippines, Ticao packs loads of adventure between South Luzon and Masbate. BY MARCO FERRARESE. PHOTOS BY KIT YENG CHAN
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IMAGINE COWBOY HATS, LEATHER lassos, bucking broncos. Now set that scene on a powder-white beach in the Philippines. It may seem a strange pairing, but that’s the outlook at Ticao island.
This brushstroke of emerald thickets and white sand is ringed by intense open blue. It’s one of Masbate Province’s three off-the-beaten path islands floating between the more famous shores of southern Luzon and Cebu. You’ll find snorkeling and diving here, but the region is most famous for the Rodeo Masbateño held every April.
Besides cowpokes and cattle, Ticao Pass’s constant currents and plankton-rich waters lure manta rays, and hammerhead, thresher and whale sharks. The island’s only claim to tourism fame is the Manta Bowl, an underwater atoll offering five different dive sites ranging up to 29 meters deep. Divers flock here on boat trips from Donsol, 90 minutes north across the pass in Sorsogon Province, Luzon, while between November and June, tourists-laden bumboats rock by in search of whale sharks. Visitors, however, rarely stay on to explore. A pity because, apart from the dive sites, the rest of Ticao’s coast is still virtually untouched. Shores dotted by local fishing communities and a jungle-clad, waterfall-sprinkled interior are the perfect springboards for adventure seekers. Ticao Island Resort’s (ticao-island-resort.com; beachfront cabanas including all meals
from P5,200 for two) romantic beach cabanas are the ideal setting to overnight under a carpet of blazing stars, keeping toes constantly tucked in the sand, without sacrificing comfort. The resort also offers an onsite SSI-accredited dive center and free kayaks to paddle out at sea and explore.
Ocean aside, there’s much more to discover on Ticao if you’re willing to follow the rhythms of nature. We rise before the first rays paint the horizon purple to take a stroll on the beach and watch how the sea powers the ebb and flow of local life. It’s easy enough to convince a group of young, energetic fishermen to let us charter their banca, which balances over waves using four curvy outstretched poles. They welcome us on board, but business comes first: we agree to wait quietly as they complete their morning fishing outing to the southern tip of the island. The banca glides over the turquoise ocean like a spider crawling on glass until we moor at the tiny village of Gibraltar to unload the morning’s catch. The beach has turned into a lively early-morning market where everybody, children included, smiles and sings as they go about their daily fishing chores. As soon as the
catch has been sold, one of our guides turns to us, ready to make good on his promise.
“I’ll show you Rock Island,” he says as we gain speed over gentle waves. Originally called Minalayo, this tiny atoll across from Ticao’s southernmost tips emerges like a stony forehead topped with green, unkempt hair. Our boat glides into the fresh, shady embrace of the island’s caves.
“Look out for snakes before jumping in,” our de facto guide warns us. It was here that famous Filipino TV host Dr. Nielsen Donato spotted yellow-lipped sea kraits, one of the most poisonous sea snakes in the world. We look around, scanning for scales, but it is all clear, so very clear. Standing in the rocking banca, the water is so crystalline the coral underneath looks sealed under a plasma screen. We bite on our snorkels and dive into high definition.
Stilted houses are built to withstand
the tides.
Balancing on the beach.
Tour Rock Island’s waters on a banca.
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↑ SUNSETS BY THE SEA“Corals, melons and oranges make me think of sunshine and vibrant sunsets. And in any warm-weather situation, one always looks for something to cool the senses, which is why I also gravitate towards mint greens, lavenders and ocean blues.” — STEPHANIE ZUBIRI
SPOTLIGHT
Filipino FlairDesigner Anne Marie Saguil has turned
her passion project, Amarie, into a leading Filipino brand with global recognition. From traditional local
menswear to Jacqueline Onassis, here are her inspirations.
← PINS AND NEEDLES“I admire the stay-at-home mothers who skillfully embroider all the clothes that we come out with each season. I hope the income they earn from us gives them the incentive and desire to pass on these traditional skills to their children, while they continue to earn a living in remote areas of the country without having to leave their families to create better futures for them.”
↑ JACKIE O CHICThe iconic American First Lady was the muse for Saguil’s Amarie Spring/Summer 2015 collection (annemariesaguil.com). “I’ve been infatuated with the classic sophistication of black-and-white of late. I imagine Jackie O donning this quiet but strong color combination while sauntering the
seafronts of Greece.”
↑ BARONG TAGALOGAnne Marie’s parents used to own handicraft stores in the leading hotels of Manila, which seeded the idea to use the traditional Filipino men’s dress shirt, the barong Tagalog, as the base for her designs. “Growing up I was always drawn to the artistic skills and beauty that I saw in the embroidery of the barong Tagalog, and felt that we should be seeing more of this artistry in our everyday wear.”
REV UP THE RETRO →“The designs I used this season were heavy on bold flowers and graphic half circles, weaving in a lot of A-line silhouettes and embroidering these graphic shapes with bright contrasting
colors to evoke a retro vibe.”
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DETOUR
Mystical Maligcong Hidden beyond the Philippine Cordilleras’ main route, this small town, with its distinct stone-wall rice terraces, has an unimagined beauty few travelers get to see. BY MARCO FERRARESE . PHOTOGRAPHED BY KIT YENG CHAN
MALIGCONG’S AMPHITHEATER of stone-wall rice terraces is one of the Cordilleras’ unsung insider secrets. The journey there, a hair-raising 30-minute uphill ride from Bontoc’s bustling market in a packed-to-the-gills jeepney (five departures per day; P20), weeds out the faint hearted, but the pay-off is worth every bump in the road. Panoramas of rice steppes carved into rolling hills extend as far as the eye can see. It looks like a playhouse for giants, with rice-carpeted staircases zigzagging in every direction. This unesco World
Heritage site is the sole example of pre-colonial stone construction in the country, but few outsiders have trod these fields.
You can do Maligcong as a half-day trip from Bontoc but, with surrounds this stunning, it is worth putting down your bags and staying a while. Suzette’s Maligcong Homestay (63- 91/5546-3557; fb.com/maligconghomestay; doubles including dinner P1,000) is an intimate lodge with three rooms, each with rustic wooden fittings and a spacious veranda overlooking the
valley. You couldn’t hope for a more gracious host than Ate Suzette, and her home-cooked pork adobo will warm your belly and your soul through Maligcong’s chilly nights.
Suzette can arrange guided walks to the terraces and hikes to the hot spring in the nearby village of Mainit, but you can also just strike off by yourself on perambulatory excursions. Following Suzette’s advice, we hike to Maligcong’s primary school, a cluster of wooden houses dominating the valley from the top of the highest hill. As we
ABOVE: The jeepney ride from Bontoc market to Maligcong is an intensely local experience. OPPOSITE: Maligcong is the only spot in the Philippines where you’ll find these picturesque stone-wall rice terraces.
leave the village limits along the snaking stone path, we stumble upon a group of shy school kids on their way back home. We all walk in single file past local farmers working knee-deep in muddy water tending to the paddies. I bask in the slice-of-life moment, and tell myself that this is what travel is all about. As we trudge along the ridge to the top, the afternoon sun starts a shimmering light show in the hundreds-strong patchwork of pools below us. I’m dumbstruck by the beauty of this ever-changing, three-dimensional checkerboard. Suzette had told us, “Even though I’ve lived here most of my life, it’s hard to get tired of Maligcong. It looks like a different place in every season.” Taking in the vastness of the view, I know exactly what Suzette means. I try to imagine what the stairs of the Gods will look like during my next visit.
STAY YOU.™
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Stay at the Holiday Inn & Suites Makati and enjoy the advantage of being in the heart of Makati City. Soak up the sun at the outdoor swimming pool, indulge in our different food & beverage offers, or escape to a day ofshopping at Glorietta Shopping Mall which is directly connectedto the hotel.
Holiday Inn & Suites MakatiGlorietta 1 Palm Drive Ayala Center, Makati City1224 PhilippinesTo book, call+63 2 9090888 or visit holidayinn.com/makati
Terms and conditions apply. See website for details.©2015 IHG. All rights reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and operated.
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The Next Pride of PalawanOne Philippine beach town is toeing the green line before tossing up tourist-filled resorts. JENINNE LEE-ST. JOHN lives to tell the tale of why you should visit sustainable San Vicente—just not too many of you, please. PHOTOGRAPHED BY RICHARD MARKS
“Are you sure you want us to take
the door off the plane, mam?”
Out came the power tools and off came the door. Being able to risk your life with such easy abandon is one of the thrills of charting the lesser-visited reaches of the Wild-Wild-West Philippines, but it’s also a perk of being an official guest of a mayor eager for you to properly see all the unspoiled paradisiacal potential her town could unlock if only the right eco-minded developers snapped up the keys. Palawan Island is probably on your go-to list (if you haven’t been there already), but I doubt you’ve heard of San Vicente, San Vic to locals and the initiated—and that’s partly because the mayor hasn’t wanted you to.
If that sounds counterintuitive, I should explain that this mayor, savvy and super green, is one Maria Carmela “Pie” Alvarez, who in 2010 became the youngest person ever elected to that post in the Philippines, at 21, while wrapping up her bachelor’s in international business administration with concentrations in environmental
Marissa, the mayor’s assistant, asked me after our truck had skidded onto the airstrip and discharged us directly under the wing of a six-seater Cessna surrounded by no fewer than a dozen downright jovial people waiting partly to help but mostly to watch us take flight.
Uh, definitely. In fact, there’s no way we’re getting in that plane unless the door is off. We want to stick our heads out over the ocean. We require a doorless Cessna.
Just one of San Vicente’s undeveloped
shorelines. OPPOSITE: Parking,
Exotic Island-style.
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which the anchors of a handful of rainbow-colored paraws were tethered like charms on a necklace. We puttered up on a sandbar and I needed a moment before I could disembark. I realized that I had wanted to be in this exact spot my entire life and had never known it.
A childlike expedition of the island saw us clambering over striped shale and zigzagged rocks. Some guys were spearfishing in the coral with one hand-hewn spike; our intrepid photographer, Richard, grabbed a mask and swam out to join them. I splashed around with two little girls among the outriggers and then bathed in the sun until our captain rustled us to depart for the next stop.
I was sad, but for naught. Because the next stop was even better. German Island. A perfect promontory of sand, ringed by coral and topped by a little gazebo, a big grill and woven palm hammocks strung between the tree trunks, four in a row. In the sun it’s hot and bright, in the shade it’s cool and breezy, and how the place manages a natural 10-degree temperature swing is beyond me. As we pulled in, captain pointed out a sea turtle chilling in the water; while on land, we played with the cleanest beach puppies you’ll ever have the pleasure to cuddle. Our third isle of this hop was called Paradise—a bit of a stretch as it is just a wee patch of sand dripping off a hill of rocks, but I was glad we’d gone there last because it made it slightly easier to head back to the mainland.
As did the allure of that doorless Cessna. Richard conferred with the pilot about the ideal seat so as to get the best shots but also not to die. That the plane needs a shockingly brief taxi is good news, since the runway, now 1.4 kilometers, is still only half built. Then we were up in the sky, circling south over the three islets we had
technology and global marketing management at Babson College across the globe in Boston. After graduation, she took over a municipality that, despite sitting between Palawan’s capital, Puerto Princesa, and the resort-filled karsts of El Nido, was and remains almost entirely undeveloped—only 10,000 tourists visited in 2014. See, no one wants it to become another Boracay. Rather, Pie’s got a master plan for a self-sustaining, eco-friendly beach haven that will maximize San Vic’s hit list: the country’s longest continuous stretch of seashore (the 14.7 kilometer aptly named Long Beach); 22 lovely outlying islands and their marine sanctuaries teeming with dolphins, dugongs and turtles; butterfly, bird and bat refuges; plus waterfalls, mangroves and the Puerto Princesa Underground River, a unesco World Heritage Site and one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature.
We launched our San Vicente immersion one sunny morn in a speedboat from Pagdanan Bay on the northern edge of a fishing village, zooming out towards Exotic Island. Any lethargic muddleheadedness I’d had due to the early hour was zapped on the approach by the sheer, shiny beauty of the place. The crisp waters overlapped in maybe 37 jewel-toned hues between one rocky, forested isle and our destination, Exotic, with a white-sand bib to
FROM LEFT: Said the plane to the longtail boat, let's race!; spearfishing net profits, on
Exotic Island; northwestern Palawan by plane; hamming it up on Long Beach.
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cruised to and fro all day. Wind whipping and wailing through the cabin, it was straight up the coastline of Long Beach, and my mind’s eye could picture the swirls of beach umbrellas that one day will stagger up its shore.
Besides that, there was little need for imagination, because the water proved so clear from even that height that we could see the sea grass fluttering below its surface. (Richard could probably see it more clearly, what with his camera and entire torso hanging out of the plane.) Soon we were over El Nido’s famous emerald-flecked towers, watching figurine-sized resort guests take their last dips of the day. By this point the melting sun was casting everything in a shimmering silver. Pie, we uncovered your buried treasure.
A LONE MOTORBIKE, ridden by a couple, drove by against a horizon intruded on from the right by a mountain, the melting sun reflecting on the receding shoreline. Under cover of the violet and magenta sky, a family emerged from the
brush of Long Beach. Mom, dad, grandma, five boys and a little girl. They were going to fish and we were going to follow. The light was perfect, the mom was friendly and the boys were hams. The fishing net was tied to two stakes. Dad took one stake thigh-deep out into the ocean, placed the end in the sand, and dragged it forward, while
one of his sons holding the other stake at shore followed along, near-parallel. Every 30 meters or so, the dad would loop back in and they’d gather the net on the sand to see what they’d snagged. The first catch yielded six fish, the next three, fewer or none. I was glad when the mom told me the family does this for quality time, not for survival—though, yes, they were going to eat those fish.
Still, in this municipality of 30,000, nearly half fish for a living. Regulating sustainable fishing has been a challenge, as has flood-proofing: new rules call for setting every structure at least 50 meters back from the high-water line (in a town this quiet, you can still hear the rolling of the ocean from three times as far away) and elevating all living quarters above the ground floor. The master plan, conceived with green-geared architecture and urban planning firm Palafox, also zones to ensure that indigenous heritage is protected, pedestrians and bikers have space to roam, and new homes and resorts are as sustainable and as solar- and wind-powered as possible. “I try to emulate the best of where I’ve been,” says idealist Pie, “and mix them together.”
One of those places is right in her backyard—Boayan Island, a 20-minute speedboat ride off the coast of San Vic. Robinson Crusoe is an overplayed trope in travel writing, but Ditchay Roxas and her husband Philippe Girardeau really have lived that dream here. In 1989, they built stilted, wooden living quarters and a kitchen, connected by boardwalks, under cover of a clutch of trees, between two hills on a patch of land whose backside extends to a rocky black beach pounded by the rough waves of the open ocean and whose expansive front deck faces a long, parabolic cove, all powdery white sands and crystalline waters, obviously.
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FROM LEFT: Prepping lunch on German Island; daylight’s long goodbye over Long Beach; German Island’s palm-draped perfection.
Beyond preserving 11 hectares of brushland and virgin forest for wildlife including eagles, orioles, giant monitor lizards, scrub fowl and monkeys, the couple, who raised their daughter here full time for more than a decade from 1996, have worked with the developer who now owns the rights to the island to regenerate the once- bountiful coral in the bay that was lost to dynamite fishing. One tactic: planting vetiver roots, which grow down three meters, clean the soil and filter the water. A snorkel into the aquatic garden, guided by one of the local free-divers who help tend it, reveals a maze of new hard and soft coral plantings to which fish of all breeds have been returning. Turning Boayan into a marine reserve has been a boon to the environment and the economy. Over a multicourse lunch prepared by Ditchay that includes stuffed fish tenderly steamed in coconut milk, Philippe explains that fish who flock to and breed in a safe haven create spillover outside of it, enabling locals to “fish the interest, not the capital investment.” Anyway, it hasn’t gone unnoticed to Pie and her San Vic boosters that a pristine, blooming, coral dive site is tourism gold.
IN FACT, these environs are chockablock with appealing dive sites, to which Richard is lured serendipitously when we happen upon a dive master from the Puerto Princesa-based Aquaholics. Our crew takes me, in the meantime, for a snorkel on a vast reef near Port
Barton, the most commercial sector of San Vic, and then we cruise over to a village on an island so the guys can buy fish (“it’s cheaper than on the mainland”) while I buy our plane tickets for a domestic flight later in the week. Even as I type this, I realize how ridiculous it sounds, all
the more for its seeming normalcy. Purchase flights online via phone while on a boat in the middle of the ocean in the Philippines. When I first started traveling, in Europe, in a much more basic variation of this seat-of-the-pants way nearly two decades ago, I never possibly could have conceived of any part of this situation. But here I was, bobbing in the middle of a glaring juxtaposition, grateful to have cell tower coverage while praying that no one else would come to take advantage of it and turn this nowheresville into somewhere.
Back to German Island, which is blissfully empty at this hour. The crew and I have the island to ourselves for a spell and I pretend like it’s ours forever; they cleave the fish and prep lunch while I claim one of those gorgeous hammocks that were calling out to me the other day, bask in just the right ray of sun peeking through the palm canopy, and open my book for the first time in four days. And then Richard is back and his eyes are shining bright. It seems on three dives he’s explored the Alburgen wreck, a merchant vessel that sunk 26 meters 23 years ago, and seen a slew of baby barracuda, cleaner shrimp, lionfish, parrot fish, humpback grouper and oddly colored clown fish—oh, and four sea turtles. There’s a fourth dive site nearby, but he’s satisfied. “Each of those dives was better than any I’ve ever done in Thailand,” he grins. After a huge lunch, I too want to swim with a turtle.
Having seen several out in this channel (there’s another rocky island some 250 meters across the water), the photographer leads the way. After a bit, he turns back
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towards German Island—maybe to fix his mask in shallower ground? I’m not sure but I think he’s coming back but then he isn’t and all of a sudden I’m too far from home and the current is too strong and I’m trying to adjust my mask and the snorkel breaks off. Great. I’m treading water aggressively against the unyielding tide, which is killing my sprained knee, trying not to swallow all of the seawater in the world while taking a clear assessment of my situation. I can’t see a soul on German Island, so trying to call for help would only waste energy. I definitely cannot swim back. (I should’ve swum back before!) OK. I probably can make it to that other island. It doesn’t have a beach, but the current will just wash me up on the rocks. I can cling to rocks and not drown and wait to get picked up. Do not panic. You panic, you drown. Attempting to right my mask once more, I dive down… And come face to face with a grown sea turtle.
It’s an eerily beautiful moment of tranquility, each of us gently flapping our limbs in what is admittedly gorgeous, clear, if imminently deadly, water. Well, hey, mission accomplished: I came out here to see a big-ass turtle and I have so I guess I can die now.
But, when I surface, a boat has appeared. I nearly drown in my sigh of relief. It’s about 30 meters away but the captain has already dived into the water and is fast-approaching. Salvation. “There’s a turtle! Right here!” I gasp. “Also... Drowning. Mask broke. I’m swimming to your boat, OK?” I take off doggy-paddling before he can answer. Scrambling aboard, I encounter a confused mate and then, as they climb back in back from their leisurely, non-death-defying snorkel, four chill passengers. “Oh,
THE DETAILSGETTING THEREUntil the San Vicente airport is completed, you’ll have to fly into Puerto Princesa from Manila, via AirAsia Zest (airasia.com), Cebu Pacific (cebupacificair.com) or Philippine Airlines (philippine airlines.com), and hire a car—or
book a ride with your hotel—for the three-hour drive to San Vic.
HOTELThis region really is untouched. The loads of lovely resorts up north in El Nido are about an hour’s drive or boat ride away; the best bet in San Vicente is:
Secret Paradise Resort & Turtle Sanctuary Six bungalows and two rooms run by a couple who cook your meals and actively preserve the four beaches their property spans. Turtle Bay, Sitio Barongbong, Port Barton; 63-999/880-2480; secretparadise resort.com; doubles from P4,450.
DIVINGAquaholics Daytrip dive excursions and SSI certification classes. Unit 4, Alimar Building, Rizal Avenue Extension, Bancao Bancao, Puerto Princesa City; 63-919/991-6282; divepalawan.net; contact [email protected] for prices.
hey, where’d you come from?” says one of the Germans, laughing, as an American jokes, “We saw you out there when we sailed in but thought you were a sea turtle.”
The boat, which these guys had hired at Port Barton, delivers me back to German Island, following in the wake of its captain, who, merman that he is, actually can swim through this powerful tide. En route, I see Richard on shore signaling me the thumbs up. Yeah, thanks, buddy. Now I’m all good.
Well, I can’t be too mad. I am the one who said one of the thrills of off-the-map adventures is the implicit permission to risk your life. But thank goodness this random boat was here at the right moment to save it—in a palpable twist of responsible tourism. “Protecting the environment doesn’t mean you cannot go,” Philippe had told us. No, it just means finding the right balance between nowheresville and somewhere.
They don’t call the Philippines an archipelago for nothing. There are way more stunning, secluded islands, coves and beaches
than we’ve had time to overdevelop. Thank goodness. So, peruse this list of our favorite slices of personal paradises, then put in for
those vacation days. Privacy and time—the ultimate luxuries. BY STEPHANIE ZUBIRI PHOTOGRAPHED BY FRANCISCO GUERRERO
YOUR OWN
PRIVATE ISLAND
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Trotting along Balesin Village beach. On Luisa: Bhig Buda
Outfitters bikini, Two Chic Manila shorts.
OPPOSITE: Cone of silence at Dedon
Island, Siargao.
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They say no man is an island, but I’d hazard a guess that every one wants one. In a country like the Philippines, where you have 7,107 to choose from, it isn’t that difficult to find one that is actually for sale. But while retail prices can be in fact quite reasonable, the extra financial as well as logistical tolls add up. Is there fresh water? What about electricity? Sort those issues out, but then every rainy season you’re worried a giant typhoon will sweep in and blow all your effort and affection to smithereens.
Enter Balesin, a unique, private island resort that is incredibly accessible. The 25-minute flight on a private plane leaving from a private hangar smack in the center of Manila means it’s quicker to get to the island than to drive an hour south of the capital to popular weekend destination Tagaytay. A friend of mine who owns a membership explained to me that it was like having maintenance-free beach houses in Bali, Costa del Sol, Mykonos, Phuket, St-Tropez and Tuscany. That’s right: it’s a seaside Epcot Center of sorts for adults (far less cheesy than it sounds!) with only 300 villas and two-bedroom suites grouped into international villages on 500 wondrous hectares. The privilege of privacy—honestly, I’ve been kicking myself for not getting in on the ground floor ever since my first visit.
Balesin Island Club
FROM TOP: At Mykonos Village, on Luisa: Nimo
With Love dress, Hat Attack clutch, Jack
Rogers sandals; aromatic rice in Phuket
Village; the clear blue beyond. OPPOSITE: In a Royal Villa, on Luisa:
Nimo With Love kaftan, Linya Disenyo
earrings, Bhig Buda Outfitters sunglasses.
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That day, it felt like I barely got settled into my seat, comfortable with my headphones and magazine, when the captain announced that we were about to land. A tropical welcome awaited us upon touchdown with its customary flower necklaces and fresh coconut juice. Buggies lined up to give tours around the world.
Yes, as strange and mainland China as it may seem, the villages are less theme-park reproductions and more inspired development. Absolutely no detail was overlooked and not one tree was out of place. Or, on Mykonos, in place, for that whole village is void of tropical coconut trees. There, the signature Greek white and blue structures are surrounded by large rocks and stunning bougainvillea perched on a small cliff overlooking the vast expanse of ocean. Over on Costa del Sol, instead of overgrown balmy vegetation there is the slightly arid landscape punctured by tiled fountains reminiscent of southern Spain. And, the shady, tree-lined beaches at Phuket, with its ornately decorated wooden villas, are perfect for a relaxing, dreamy escape. Each village comes not just with the ambience of its inspiration but with a corresponding restaurant. Moules frites at St-Tropez? Spaghetti alle vongole and wood-fire oven pizzas at Toscana? Sundowners and satay at Bali? That probably sums up the bulk of my intended itinerary here…
My holiday was planned around mealtimes and cocktail hours—and while I was nibbling on a tasty skewer during the first of what was to become many happy hour sessions at the beautiful Nusa Dua bar overlooking the fuchsia sea, I had a moment of clarity: The diversity of food and drink was just one signal of the breadth of options on the island designed to maximize repeat visitors’ investments and minimize any inkling of ennui.
The choices are in fact quite dizzying: You can go horseback riding on the beach, indulge in the spa, dive, fish for your own meal, karaoke. Heck, you can even let out your inner Legolas and try your hand at archery. Still, I sincerely am more than happy just reading a book, swinging in a hammock,
enjoying the salty breeze, because the truth is that the most powerful selling point of Balesin is the stunning natural setting.
Only one-tenth of the island is developed, planned as it was with sustainability and respect for nature in mind. One has to drive a good 20 minutes, winding through untouched forests and untrimmed flora, to get from one village to another. Adventurous spirits might
pack a picnic lunch and, towel and hat in hand, disappear to a secluded cove. There are more than seven kilometers of white-sand beachfront, so it’s no sweat to find a few square meters to call your own. The development was so well considered that despite the extremely high occupancy one Valentine’s weekend, we often found ourselves dining alone in restaurants, only bumping into people Sunday afternoon in the
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hangar on our way home. “Oh, I didn’t know you were here too!” is a common exclamation at the end of a holiday.
As our initial tour came to a close, the friendly guide asked if we’d like to see her favorite place, and took us to the southernmost tip of the island. The buggy climbed up the hill and the island narrowed to a point where on one side stood the Pacific and on the other Lamon Bay. We were waved in by the watchman, who had
a big toothy grin. The mid-afternoon sun warmed our skin, long unkempt grass danced in the ocean wind, softly framing the small, charmingly beat-up guardhouse. A rickety bamboo hut with equally rickety benches stood glowing against the light and sparkling water. “I love coming here and just staring out to sea,” our guide said. “In the early morning, you can watch the sunrise and there are often turtles that come
up to the surface. Then you can come back later in the day and enjoy an unobstructed view of the sunset.” She sighed and so did I. Lucky watchman, I thought to myself. He had the best spot on the island… and didn’t have to pay a cent.
Balesin Island Club; 63-2/846-6205; balesin.com; contact the resort for a preview visit, membership fees and accommodation rates.
CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Balesin Island has a
team of resident wood carvers who create
decorative items and furniture; chill in
beanbags at the Balesin Village Clubhouse; at the
Balesin Village beachfront, on Luisa:
Two Chic Manila blouse and pants; at the spa, on Luisa: Dusk Resortwear
cover-up,H&M bikini; sun-kissed dining in
St-Tropez; private transport for the jet set.
ADVENTUROUS
SPIRITS MIGHT PACK
A PICNIC AND, TOWEL
AND HAT IN HAND,
DISAPPEAR
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This is the luxe life. The brainchild of a British couple who say they live for exotic adventures without the restrictive and confining feel of resorts and hotels, Ariara is an all-or-nothing private island with the requisite dense emerald jungles, turquoise waters and white sands. The ultimate indulgence here? Whether you want a romantic escape for two or a raucous beach party with 18 friends, the eight villas, cottages and suites are book one, get them all. That goes not just for the contemporary tropical, artisan-highlighted accommodations, in which you can hop into large hand-carved marble baths from Romblon, duck under thatched roofs made out of nipa fibers, and wrap
yourself in textiles from tribal weavers. It also applies to the bounty of big-kid toys at your disposal. Jetskiing in the late afternoon? Discovering deserted islands on the 30-meter trimaran? Taking the 12-meter dive boat out to explore coral reefs and World War II? From spa treatments to yoga to curating each vintage from the wine cellar to your personal preference—and the menu of the private chef—every desire is met, surpassed, often even anticipated, by the friendly and efficient staff.
Ariaraisland.com; seven-night stays from US$40,040 for groups of six to eight people, to US$59,850 for groupsof 15-18 people.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:All-inclusive water sports; each of
the eight rooms boasts uninterrupted westerly seascapes;
hand-carved marble baths from Romblon; luxe lounging.
Ariara IslandCALAMIAN ARCHIPELAGO, PALAWAN
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Does it count as “private” if you’re surrounded by simians? Well, if it comes with your own cave-waterfall shower, we say, definitely. Sangat Island is a pristine nature reserve owned by British-climate refugee Andy Pownall, but the true rulers of this roost are the mischievous monkeys that scamper freely about—and among the exotic birds such as the Palawan hornbill and endangered Tabon who live in the magnificent jungle overlooking the small strip of ivory sand dotted with large conch shells. Lambingan Villa is accessible only via a rickety bridge that snakes through jagged rocks and into a cave before thrusting you out onto its secluded beach. The rustic, three-story villa is somewhat spartan and has no air-conditioning, but it harnesses nature to provide the perks, from that waterfall shower to the cool, ocean breeze. Take a kayak and explore the island’s hidden lagoons, jump into a school of rainbow-colored fish or unwind in the secret hot-spring pool. Simplicity and freshness reign with tasty (though, note, limited) offerings such as a grilled catch of the day and sautéed vegetables from the owners’ lovingly tended garden. Unplug and melt into the island’s languid time. Soon you’ll contemplate just burning that bridge and staying tucked up with the monkeys.
Sangat.com.ph; low-season doubles from US$155 per person per night, including three buffet meals daily, complimentary tea or coffee, and airport transfers.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pier to private paradise; nearby bountiful reefs draw divers; history writ on the wall; fish, plus monkeys
and birds, are the nearest neighbors.
The Lambingan Villa
SANGAT ISLAND, CORON, PALAWAN
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Planning a destination wedding, family reunion or other intimate celebration? Pearl Farm’s seven Malipano Villas have you covered. Perched on stilts and on the rocks of the speck of land across the bay from the main resort, these spacious three-story, three- and four-bedroom villas were built in the traditional Maranao and Samal styles with bamboo accents and picturesque pointed roofs meant to look like the iconic native Philippine hat, the salakot. With its own beachfront and a large open-air veranda, the spot is made for cocktail parties and barbecues overlooking the sea. Just dial up the main resort for all your catering and concierge needs: For entertainment, there are the usual offerings of aqua sports, but perhaps you’d like to sprinkle in a dose of culture with a guided field trip to the weaving center where women from the Mandaya tribe work on lavish hand woven textiles and artisanal housewares. Back home for happy hour, be sure to order their succulent morsels of fresh tuna kinilaw—a local version of ceviche made with fresh green chilies, ginger and coconut milk—the heat tempered by frosty San Miguel beers. Whatever you fancy, take over this cluster of cottages and rule it like a festive tribe.
Pearlfarmresort.com; three-bedroom villas for up to six people from P40,941 per night, four-bedroom villas for up to seven people from P44,398 per night.
CLOCKWISE FROM BELOW: The Malipano Villas are sheltered by salakot-shaped roofs; pool
party, anyone?; room witha view; stilted glory.
The Malipano Villas
MALIPANO ISLAND, PEARL FARM, DAVAO
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and you definitely won’t hear—the other barefoot guests. A flat rate per person per night ensures ease akin to residency; this island is your oyster; your wish is its command. Indulge in multiple massages per day, bounce in the domed trampolines, visit the local market… boat rides and surf lessons and picnics on deserted isles, and did we mention so many cocktails at the handwoven circular bar? Feel like expanding the menu? Wander through their organic garden and pick your own vegetables, then pop
Call it the kingmaker. Nestled in thick mangroves and among flying lemurs and monitor lizards on surfers’ paradise Siargao, the whimsical architectural gem that is Dedon Island is designed to be your personal sand castle-away-from-home. Okay, so technically there are nine vaulted-ceilinged, playful niche-filled, luxury villas here, but at this self-described “outdoor living lab” on four hectares, in which the coconut-leaf roofs blend seamlessly and sustainably with the emerald tree canopy, you’ll hardly notice—
CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: Your sand castle-away-from-home; Siargao is a surfing mecca; pick your own organic veggies and tell the chef how to prep your salads; beachy bounce houses.
Dedon IslandSOUTHEASTERN SIARGAO
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into the kitchen to have the chef assist you in satisfying your craving. At Dedon Island there are no checks and no billing statements, just the sheer joy of pure vacation abandon without having to worry about adding up costs upon departure… That is if you can bear to give up Poseidon’s trident and go back to civilian life.
Dedon Island; dedonisland.com; doubles from P25,100 per adult per night, P12,550 for children under 18 years old, and free for kids under 10.
