RAJEEV SHARAN- NIFT BANGALORE (AP-06) ECO-FRIENDLY CLOTHING When shopping for clothes, many people shop based on things like comfort or style, but not many people check for clothing’s eco-friendliness. More and more clothing companies are providing clothes made from eco-friendly fabrics. Demand for these clothes is increasing too. This makes sense given the environmental issues we’re faced with in today’s world. SETTING THE CONTEXT Textiles Production and Processing - Chemical Intensive Applications Associated Social and Environmental Concerns Growing Concerns - o Increasing industrial Pollution, o Industrial waste disposal problems, o Economic and social health of the farmers and industrial workers, o Lack of awareness and understanding of the positive effect a person can have. Unawareness about Environmental Sustainability – Ethical, Environmental and Socially responsible business structures are required. ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY 1. Need to believe in environmental sustainability – taking incremental steps in supply chain processes to make it happen. 2. Need to be aware about the social, economical and ecological benefits of environmentally sustainable products and development processes. 3. Care for the Environment Influence the supply chain to use Sustainable Processes, Run business operations in an environmentally friendly way, Work to conserve energy and reduce waste, Sustainable design approach - Explore and implement sustainable materials and products. SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES Textile products that have been environmentally friendly support communal harmony, as well as capable of supporting fashion needs. 1 RAJEEV SHARAN- ECOSPUN SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION
Transcript
RAJEEV SHARAN- NIFT BANGALORE (AP-06)
ECO-FRIENDLY CLOTHING
When shopping for clothes, many people shop based on things like comfort or style, but not many people check for clothing’s eco-friendliness.More and more clothing companies are providing clothes made from eco-friendly fabrics. Demand for these clothes is increasing too. This makes sense given the environmental issues we’re faced with in today’s world.
SETTING THE CONTEXT
Textiles Production and Processing - Chemical Intensive Applications Associated Social and Environmental Concerns Growing Concerns -
o Increasing industrial Pollution,o Industrial waste disposal problems,o Economic and social health of the farmers and industrial workers,o Lack of awareness and understanding of the positive effect a person can have.
Unawareness about Environmental Sustainability – Ethical, Environmental and Socially responsible business structures are required.
ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
1. Need to believe in environmental sustainability – taking incremental steps in supply chain processes to make it happen.
2. Need to be aware about the social, economical and ecological benefits of environmentally sustainable products and development processes.
3. Care for the Environment Influence the supply chain to use Sustainable Processes, Run business operations in an environmentally friendly way, Work to conserve energy and reduce waste, Sustainable design approach - Explore and implement sustainable materials and products.
SUSTAINABLE TEXTILES
Textile products that have been environmentally friendly support communal harmony, as well as capable of supporting fashion needs.
WHAT MAKES A FABRIC “ECO-FRIENDLY”?
Eco-friendly fabrics generally have the following characteristics: Minimum use of chemicals and pesticides, Best land management practices, Sustainable farming practices, Eco-friendly certification (i.e. EU-Eco label certification), Animal friendly, Production adheres to fair trade practices
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CLASSIFICATION - Eco Friendly Textiles Fibres
Eco Textiles: Any textile product, which is produced in eco-friendly manner and processed under eco-friendly limits (defined by agencies like oekotex, ifoam etc.).
Organic: Any crop cultivated by using organic principles of agriculture like organic manures and bio fertilizers can be considered Organic. This is a crop that is cultivated without pesticides, chemicals and synthetic fertilizers (e.g., organic cotton).
Recycled/ biodegradable: Natural and synthetic fibres which are biodegradable or can be broken into pieces to recycle and produce textile fibres again are called recyclable fibres. These are recycled to produce recycled fibres, and then converted into textiles.
Natural: Natural fibres- like cotton, linen, jute etc. which are obtained from natural sources and may be considered ecofriendly based on the process of cultivation and processing.
THE FABRICS
Here’s a list of eco-friendly fibres to look out for. Next time you’re shopping for clothes, look out for clothes that are made from the following fibres (or other eco-friendly fibres):
1. Hemp - An amazing natural fibre. Some say hemp could have 25,000 uses. Hemp provides enormous benefit to the natural environment. This is true when used in products and when growing the hemp plant.
2. Jute - Similar to hemp, jute is a type of vegetable fibre used for thousands of years, with outstanding potential for the future.
3. Ingeo - Trademark for a man-made fibre derived from corn.
4. Calico - Fabric made from unbleached cotton. Also referred to as muslin.
5. Hessian Cloth - Coarse woven fabric made from jute or hemp.
7. Recycled Polyester - Polyester created from used polyester garments.
8. Bamboo Fibre - Bamboo fabric is very comfortable and 100% biodegradable.
9. Tencel® - Brand name for a biodegradable fabric made from wood pulp cellulose.
10. Ramie - Ramie fibres are one of the strongest natural fibres. Ramie can be up to 8 times stronger than cotton, and is even stronger when wet.
11. Organic Wool - Organic wool is wool that has been produced in a way that is less harmful to the environment than non-organic wool.
12. Organic Linen - Linen that is made from flax fibre. Could also refer to be linen made from other organically grown plant fibres.
13. FORTREL EcoSpun - Fibre made from plastic containers
14. Milk Silk - Silk made from milk
15. Soy Silk - Silk made from soybeans
16. Nettle fibre - Made from stinging nettle (commonly known as a weed)
17. Spider-web fabric - Fabric made from spider webs. Still in the experimental stages.
18. Pineapple fibre
19. Banana leaf fibre
20. Black diamond fibre
21. Lyocell
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING
Textile wet processing using environmentally friendly agents and sustainable methods of processing in order to have environmentally safe processing with less chemicals inputs and problems in effluent disposals etc. (e.g., use of peroxide bleaching, natural dyes, azo free dyes.)
WET PROCESSING – Environmental Concerns
Important environmental concerns related to textile wet processing:
Chemical intensive wet processing: scouring, bleaching, mercerizing, dyeing, printing etc. Heavy metals: iron, copper, lead etc, found in dyestuffs auxiliaries, binders etc. Residual dyestuffs, chemicals in water: due to poor fixation of colours. PVC and phthalates: used in plastisol printing paste. Formaldehyde: found in dispersing agents, printing paste and colorant fixatives.
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Need for Ecofreindly Wet Processing –sustainable and beneficial methods.
Bio-processing can simply be defined as the application of living organisms and their components to industrial products and processes, which are mainly based on enzymes.
Bio processing also offers the potential for new industrial processes that require less energy, less water and less effluent problems with effective results.
o Enzymatic Desizingo Enzymatic Scouringo Enzymatic Bleachingo Bio polishing and Enzyme based softeners etc.
Eco-Friendly Finishes and Dyes
As well as the fabric used to make clothes, many clothes are dyed and/or have laminate finishes etc. Here are some eco friendly options:
Biodegradable TPU Laminate - Solvent free TPU that can biodegrade in as little as 4 years. NanoSphere® Textile Finish - Self cleaning textile finish for clothing and other textiles. Non-Toxic Dyes - These can be better for health as well as the environment.
OPPORTUNITY FOR SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTS
Corporate Leadership – Huge Opportunities Key Driver – Rapidly increasing Consumer awareness and increasing demand for sustainable products NGO’s and Consumer Organizations – Enablers and motivational support to corporate Business benefits in using socially responsible business practices and sustainable products.
COMPANIES GOING SUSTAINABLE
Cutter & Bucks – fall’04 with 50 % organic Coop of Switzerland- Sum ’02 with 5% organic Gap Inc – launched first organic cotton collection in Sum’06. H&M – launched first collection in fall’05 Marks &Spencer - fall’03 with 5% organic cotton Nike – fall’02 with 5-10% organic cotton and Lycra Nordstrom – Sum’02 with 5 % Organic Pratibha Syntex - Successfully selling blended knits of organic cotton, Bamboo, recycle cotton and other
eco fibres. Tree Hugger- launched his first Bamboo blended collection in sum 06. Timberland- Spr’03-Spr’06 with 5-10% organic
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Under the Canopy - Successfully running eco fashion business using all sustainable fibres.
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Fortrel® EcoSpun®
The Renewable Resource
EcoSpun2™
The Power of Performance!
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ECOSPUN (ECO-FI)
Eco-fi , formerly known as EcoSpun, is a high-quality polyester fiber which has been developed by the U.S. company Wellman Inc. Many different fabrics are made using Eco-fi, including fleece fabrics which are warm, durable, weather resistant, lightweight and comfortable. They are very soft to the touch.Ecospun is a polyester fiber made from 100% recycled plastic bottles. Eco-fi can also be blended with other fibers, such as wool, cotton and tencel, for enhanced qualities. Eco-fi is used mostly for vests, jackets, pants, blanket throws and accessories. It is also used in carpets, home furnishings and fibrefill.
LIFE CYCLE
TIMELINE OF ECOSPUN
In 1993, Wellman, Inc., introduced EcoSpun, a revolutionary fibre made from 100 percent recycled plastic soda, water and food containers. The United Nations awarded Wellman with the first Fashion Industry Award for Environmental Excellence.
Apr 22, 1994 - In fact, they were made from Fortrel EcoSpun, a fabric derived from PET ( polyethylene terephthalate) bottles that have been cleaned. Some of these fabrics are 100 percent EcoSpun fibres. Others are a blend of EcoSpun and cotton or wool.
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Oct 12, 1995 - That's because Fortrel EcoSpun is a real fabric, said Alison Deyette, a fashion consultant with Wellman Inc. of New Jersey, which turns bottles into ball “Just about anything in your wardrobe you can make with EcoSpun,”
March 20, 2005 New York Times* Models sauntered down a catwalk showing off the latest work of designers. Every garment was made with fibres spun from bamboo, corn, organic cotton and materials that promoters said were eco.
Apr 12, 2008 - Since taking over the company, Foss has expanded its work force from 320 employees to 460 and created new product lines like Ecospun, created from recycled plastics. The company was recently named the "Innovation Rocks" award winner by the New Hampshire Division of Economic.
Jan 21, 2009 - Ecofi Felt formerly known as Ecospun is a polyester felt made from 100% post consumer recycled plastic bottles. It takes 10 plastic bottles to make 1 pound of Ecofi fibre As a frame of reference it takes 17 bottles to make enough fibre for a sweatshirt.
WELLMAN’S LONG HISTORY OF ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY
In 1965 began producing nylon and polyester staple fibers and plastic resins from recycled raw materials. Began recycling PET bottles for polyester fiber in 1978. In 1979 established a PET bottle recycling facility in Johnsonville, SC. Introduced Fortrel® EcoSpun®, the first 100% post consumer recycled polyester textile fiber, in 1993. An Engineered Resins facility that uses recycled nylon and polyester. Wellamid® Ecolon® nylon resin,
made from recycled nylon post-consumer carpet, goes into many molded automotive end-uses. Wellpet® PET polyester resins are available from post-consumer materials.
WELLMAN’S ENVIRONMENTAL AWARDS
Fashion Industry Award for Environmental Excellence by the United Nations Environmental Programme (1993). Green Star from the Environmental Action Coalition (1993). Edison from the American Marketing Association for innovation and excellence (1993). Keep America Beautiful Award (1994). White House Award from the President’s Council on Sustainable Development (1996).
ECOSPUN®-THE RENEWABLE RESOURCE
Wellman sources Fortrel® EcoSpun® staple products produced from certified 100% postconsumer plastics. EcoSpun® staple fibres are available in a range of deniers for various applications which may
include:o 100% & blended apparel & accessories
o Fibrefill applications
o Industrial substrates
o Nonwoven consumer goods.
ECOSPUN2™-THE POWER OF PERFORMANCE!
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EcoSpun2™ is a 1.4 denier, multi-channel cross-section fiber designed for performance moisture management. Unique cross-section facilitates wicking and moisture vapour transport. 100% post-consumer recycled for performance apparel applications.
ECOSPUN® CERTIFICATION
EcoSpun® suppliers certify raw material source and content. EcoSpun® is independently tested and certified to be produced using 100% post-consumer recycled raw
materials by the North Carolina Centre for Applied Textile Technology.
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Multi-channel fibre SEM
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PLASTIC FACTS
The 51 billion plastic bottles in landfills end-to-end would wrap around the earth 5 times. For each billion bottles not in landfills --over 1/4 million barrels of oil are saved; eliminating 150,000
tonnes of harmful air emissions that contribute to global warming, acid rain, smog Amt. of petroleum saved yearly by using post-consumer bottles in manufacturing process = enough power
to supply Atlanta for a yr.% of PET bottle being recycled
2004 2005 200622% 23% 34%
Over 860 million lbs. of recycled PET used in U.S. manufacturing applications include: fiber for carpet, apparel, strapping, sheet, film, food, non-food containers.
1 Lb. of Fibre = Approximately 10 Bottles
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2006 RESULTS
Foss produced 36,500,000 lbs. of fiber. This would equal 365,000,000bottles saved from landfills.
Saving: o 91,250 barrels of oilo 64,734 tonnes of emissions
FOSS & ECOSPUN
10,000 yd2of indoor/outdoor carpet = 100,000bottles Truck load of carpet pad (32oz) = 240,000bottles Truck load of baled fiber = 450,000bottles Truck load of vinyl coated substrates = 87,500bottles
Potential Bottles Used in a Year
Total bolts sold = 12,925,000bottles Total 9”x12” sheets sold = 4,300,000bottles Total 3’ x 6’ rolls of automotive carpet = 3,822,000 bottles. Total bottles consumed making Foss products for Wal-Mart = 21,047,000
AUTO BUILDS & ECOSPUN
16 Million Vehicles Manufactured Yearly16 Yearly. If the car interiors were made using Ecospun - That would equal 4,192,000,000bottles saved from
landfills Saving:
o 1,048,000 barrels of oil o 743,466 tonnes of emissions
1. Plastic containers are collected from curb side and community recycling centres.2. The containers are sorted by type and colour.3. All labels and caps are stripped off.4. The plastic containers are then washed.5. Then they are crushed.6. Then they are chopped into flake.7. The flakes are then melted and extruded to create fibre.8. The fibre is crimped, cut, drawn, then stretched into the desired length (based on its strength), then
baled.
Fortrel® Ecospun™ is a registered trademark of Wellman Inc, and is manufactured by Foss Manufacturing Company.
ECOSPUN RESIN
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FIBRE SPINNIN
DRAW LINE
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SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION FORTRAN Ecospun
WHAT IS ECOSPUN USED FOR?
Ecospun, whether by itself or blended, can be used in many products. Here are some examples:
clothing (eg, vests, jackets, pants)
blankets
carpets
wall coverings
automobile interiors
various home furnishings
fiberfill (eg, filling material for cushions)
craft felt
BENEFITS
Made without depleting earth’s natural resource Lowers emission Keeps bottles out of landfill. Bottles FDA approved High quality PET resin Meets industry requirements for fiber (tenacity, shrinkage, colorfastness, dyeability, UV
stability) Can be blended into any PET textile application
LIMITATIONS
Many people avoid eco-spun because they are made of plastic. They are not dye able and are often see through. They will fuzz and pill easily. When used in wearable’s they are often referred to as itchy and irritating because they do not
“breathe” allowing for air flow and the plastic itself can irritate skin, well that and they are often see through and shiny when exposed to light which could also be very irritating.
SUSTAINABLE PRODUCTION FORTRAN Ecospun
CONCLUSION
Ecospun is a fabric having capacity to keep billions of plastic PET bottles out of the world's landfills each year. For every one billion plastic bottles created, 18 tons of harmful air emissions are produced and 2.5 million barrels of oil are used, contributing to acid rain, global warming, and smog.
Cost is always not much different than original polyester and other synthetic fibres and its return to the environment makes it very profitable for anyone.
