Special Issue American “Zen” GETAWAYcedar-rapids.s3.amazonaws.com/digital_files/5579... ·...

Vol. 02

GETAWAYPractical Travel. Rich Experiences.

American “Zen” Special Issue

GETAW

AYV

OL. 02

ROMANTICADVENTURES

BEACH FINDS & PEAK SPORTS

50+ PAGES OF GETAWAYS

Yoga retreats, meditation meccas, destination spas, enlightening places, spiritual spaces— across the nation (and just over the border)!

Find Your Happy Place

1AMERICAN “ZEN” ISSUE GETAWAY

4New & NoteworthyOn-the-Go Good to Know

7Great GearState-of-the Art Snow Day Togs & Toys

10Exactly Like the PicturesA Q & A with Jan Davidson, Head of the John C. Campbell Folk School

12Resorts That Will Take Your Breath Away5 Destinations for Romance, Relaxation & Adventure

16Embrace the Cold10 Wild & Wonderful Winter Experiences

21Stories from the Sea4 Great Year-Round Beachcombing Spots

Contents



Strolling the shore, Sanibel Island, FL

p. 23

Spirited AwayPilgrimages for the Mind, Body & Soul

26

36 The Moments in BetweenPhotographing Stillness in Grand Teton and Yosemite

96Just for FunSunrise to Sunset

2 3AMERICAN “ZEN” ISSUE GETAWAYGETAWAY AMERICAN “ZEN” ISSUE

Hitting the slopes, Deer Valley Resort,

Park City, UTp. 62

Editorial Director Laura M. Kidder

Copy Editors Alexis Kelly, Jane Zarem

Proofreader Cameron Gearen

Design Director Joerg Metzner

Art Director Jodie Knight

Photo Editor Cherie Cincilla

Design Production Joe Rockey

Product Management Director Jenny Thornton

Production Carey Seren

Photo credits: Front cover: Constantinescu Costin / Alamy; inside front cover: Danita Delimont / Alamy; back cover: Dennis Frates / Alamy.

©2016 RM Acquisition, LLC d/b/a Rand McNally. Rand McNally and the globe logo are registered trademarks of RM Acquisition, LLC. All other trademarks appearing in this publication are trademarks of third parties and are the responsibility of their respective owners.

Reproducing or recording maps, tables, text, or any other material that appears in this publication by photocopying, by electronic storage and retrieval, or by any other means, or the use of any such material is prohibited.

Rand McNally makes every effort to provide accurate information. Changes can and do occur, however, and we cannot be legally responsible for any errors, changes, or omissions, or any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any person or entity as a result of information or advice contained in this book.

Published in U.S.A. Printed in U.S.A.

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If you have a comment, suggestion, or even a compliment, please visit us atrandmcnally.com/contactor write toRand McNally Consumer Affairs P.O. Box 7600Chicago, Illinois 60680-9915

44No Trouble in ParadiseBeaches, Botany & More on Kaua‘i

51Choose Your Desert AdventureRev Up or Recharge in Palm Springs

59Powder DazeA Ski-For-All in Utah’s Wasatch Mountains

66Wood WorksA Grant Wood Tour of Cedar Rapids

71When the Smoke ClearsA Barbecue Tour of Dallas

76Finding Old FloridaConnecting the Docks Along the Gulf Coast

82Pick an Island . . . Any IslandU.S. Virgin Island Experiences

90So, You Want to Go to Harvard . . .Exploring the Campus that Defines Cambridge



Contents

Front cover: Sunset in St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands

Back cover: Palm Canyon/Indian Canyons, Palm Springs, CA

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8 Great Places for a Dose of Relaxation, a Dash of Adventure & A Touch of Zen

Getaways

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Recharging, the Esalen Institute

Big Sur, CAp. 28

A Moment of Zen A few years ago, on a return visit to New Orleans, I was invited to a dinner party with a guest list that included the expected mix of academics, writers, and artists. Unexpected, though, was the addition of a visiting Tibetan monk.

As it happened, the monk and I (the Type-A New Yorker) were seated next to each other.

I did my Western-culture best to engage my intriguing dinner companion in conversation. But even open-ended questions resulted in succinct, though polite, responses. I then did my Western-culture best to fill the nerve-wracking (to me, anyway) gaps of silence with nervous prattle about this and that and the other.

At one point, I recall explaining how I had been raised in the North but had also lived in the South . . . how I loved both regions but longed to find a balance between the two. Something about the monk’s body language then silenced me. He deliberately turned to me and quietly but pointedly said, “Balance comes from within.”

It was a momentary collision of cultures so pronounced that it was almost comical. While I focused on talking as a way to connect, the monk focused on listening—and looking for a teaching moment. His approach proved effective. To this day, in moments of stress, I recite the monk’s words of advice in my head or under my breath.

Sometimes, though, maintaining balance in a busy world requires more than just everyday mindfulness, mantras, and time on the yoga mat. Sometimes, you need a full-on stop, a change of scenery, some quiet time, and maybe even a challenge that will promote inner growth. That’s what this issue is about.

Our main feature suggests ways to relax and regroup at wellness spas, yoga retreats, motivational workshops, sacred spaces, and meditation meccas. Other upfront articles help you rekindle romance on resort adventures or reconnect with your inner child—by making music or art, hunting for beach treasures, or romping in the snow. Back-of-book getaways help you find your happy place in eight intriguing places across the country. Within this American “zen” issue, the coverage is, indeed, balanced.

Snorkeling crystal-clear waters, Tunnels Beach, Kaua‘i, HI

p. 48

Relaxing in the spa, The Ritz-CarltonRancho Mirage, CA p. 54


More than 19 million people participate in winter sports in America, and, if the past is any indicator, the 2016/2017 season will be an awesome time to find joy on the slopes. Further rejoice with a statewide ski pass offered by several snowbound states or one of these multi-park passes, none of which have blackout dates.

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

On-the-Go Good to KnowBy Alexis Kelly

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Peaks of Joy

If our Stories from the Sea feature (see pages 21–25) inspires a beachcombing expedition, take along one of these items.

Ever wondered where that special piece of sea glass originated? Or maybe how old it is? Or if it’s worth something? Each of the 35 pocket-size cards in Richard LaMotte’s Pure Sea Glass Identification Deck (Sea Glass Publishing, 2009), which are organized by color and type of glass, offers interesting facts and collecting tips.

If shells and marine life are more your thing, check out one of these fully illustrated, easy-to-use Golden Guides from St. Martin’s Press: Seashells of North America (2014), Seashells of the World (2001), or Seashore Life (2001). The bad news? The books might be hard to find in print. The good news? You can download all three as e-books for less than $25.

Seashore Delight

Multi Alpine Experience Pass. The MAX pass, as it’s commonly called, allows for five days of skiing or snowboarding on each of 26 North American mountains. Among the participating resorts are Big Sky in Montana; Killington, Pico, and Stratton in Vermont; Brighton and Solitude in Utah; Sugarloaf and Sunday River in Maine; and Copper Mountain and Steamboat in Colorado. www.themaxpass.com.

Mountain Collective Pass. With this pass, you can ski for 24 days (two days each) at 12 destinations, including Stowe in Vermont, Jackson Hole in Wyoming, Sun Valley in Idaho, Taos in New Mexico, and Banff and Whistler Blackcomb in Canada. Want something more exotic? Affiliated destinations include Japan’s Hakuba Valley, France’s Chamonix, and Chile’s Valle Nevado (so North Americans can enjoy some summertime skiing). mountaincollective.com.

EPIC Pass. This pass offers unlimited access to Arapahoe Basin, Vail, Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, and Keystone in Colorado; Park City in Utah; Heavenly, Northstar, and Kirkwood in California; Wilmot Mountain in Wisconsin; Afton Alps in Minnesota; and Mt. Brighton in Michigan. If you make your way to Australia during the North American summer, you can use the pass at Perisher Ski Resort. www.snow.com/epic-pass.

Gathering shells on the beach, Sanibel Island, FL

GreenAir Scent PodDiffuser (right);Grain Audio’s OverEar Headphones (below).

Happy TravelsOlfactory Bliss: Designed for portability, the GreenAir Scent Pod Diffuser (newgreenair.com) is battery-operated and small enough to fit in the palm of your hand, making it the perfect hotel-room aromatherapy accessory. There’s also the even smaller Green Air CarScent Diffuser, which plugs into your auto’s cigarette lighter. Need some essential oils for your travels? The Classic Essential Oil Sampler Set offered by Mountain Rose Herbs (www.mountainroseherbs.com) includes 1/8-ounce bottles of eight different oils, along with suggested uses and blending ideas.

Written Bliss: Authored by Dr. Patrizia Collard, a mindfulness teacher and stress-management consultant, Little Book of Mindfulness: 10 Minutes a Day to Less Stress, More Peace (Gaia Books, 2014) has short, easy-to-follow meditation exercises. Its low-tech approach and small size (4 x 6) make it the perfect travel companion.

Acoustic Bliss: For melodic or even meditative joy, invest in a pair of Grain Audio’s Over Ear Headphones (grainaudio.com). They have artisanal-looking, FSC-certified, solid-walnut ear cups and come with their own travel case. An inline mic lets you use them to take calls—if you must!


There’s no such thing as bad weather, as the old Scandinavian saying goes, just bad gear. Here are 10 slick products that will help you stave off the cold, navigate the slopes, and play in the snow so you can enjoy—rather than merely brave—the season.

State-of-the-Art Snow Day Togs & ToysBy Eric Peterson

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Great GearVOORMI cold-weather clothing; (see also page 8).

Heavenly LightsThough many folks head to Alaska to see the Aurora Borealis, some say that northern Canada is the best place for truly unobstructed displays that appear directly overhead instead of along the horizon. If you’re looking for a heavenly lights adventure complete with a 20-minute bush-plane ride and rustic-but-cozy creature comforts, consider booking an all-inclusive package at Blachford Lake Lodge (867/873-3303, www.blachfordlakelodge.com), 62 miles southeast of Yellowknife, the capital of Canada’s Northwest Territories.

On clear nights, you can see the Northern Lights right from the lodge itself—perhaps from its hot tub or even your own bed—rather than having to trudge or be transported to a designated (and cold) viewing location. You can even arrange middle-of-the-night wake-up calls to catch the lights at their peak.

The best time for viewing is mid-December through mid-April, which is also the best time to enjoy a full Great White North experience with cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, fat-tire biking, ice fishing, and ice skating. You can even sign up for igloo-building workshops or arrange snowmobile tours. Not up for the truly frigid temperatures? The Northern Lights are also heavenly mid-August through mid-October.

Sometimes, “digital detox” means disconnecting from virtual reality and reconnecting with, well, good old-fashioned reality. Other times, though, it means finding a digital tool to help you “detox” from real-life stress.

The Headspace.com app’s guided meditation exercises will help you find your happy place on even the most stressful trip in as little as 10 minutes a day. Or try the RelaxMelodies.com app, which presents a variety of calming sounds, melodies, and brainwave beats, as well as guided meditations.

Exercise is another way to alleviate stress, but finding the time and a place to work out can be difficult while on the road. With the Skyfit (www.skyfitapp.com) app, you can take a fitness class anywhere, anytime: $10 a month gives you unlimited access to invigorating playlists and virtual routines provided by top trainers.

Another way to find your happy place? Getting a great deal. Named Best Travel App of 2015 by Apple, Hopper (www.hopper.com) predicts when flights to your selected destinations will be the cheapest and notifies you to either book or wait. The Skyscanner.com website, which also helps you track and buy cheap flights, has an app for finding and tracking the best hotel and car-rental rates.

Figuring out how best—or just how—to use reward miles and points can exasperate even the savviest traveler. Thankfully, the new RewardExpert.com website has strategies and tools to help you earn, track, and use reward points to book air travel.

Aurora Borealis over Prosperous Lake, Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada

DIGITAL DETOX?


GREAT GEAR

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1. ThermaCELL Heated Insoles

Keep your toes toasty all winter long with these insoles. Use wireless remote control to turn the heat on and adjust it to medium, up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit, or high, up to 110 degrees. You get about five hours of heat (medium setting) after which you simply plug in to recharge the built-in lithium-ion polymer batteries in about four hours. An upgrade to ProFLEX insoles gets you a removable battery and USB charging capabilities. $134.99 (original), $184.99 (ProFLEX); heat.thermacell.com.

2. AI Riders on the Storm Jacket

Sure, this integrated jacket/hood/goggle system looks like something out of a sci-fi movie, but it’s also built to withstand the wintriest weather nature can throw at it. The ergonomic Italian-made jacket features a nylon shell stuffed with down and a hood that zips into a facemask—one with detachable lenses to protect your eyes and porous neoprene to cover your mouth and ears. $259–$309; www.ai-storm.com.

3. VOORMI Cold-Weather Clothing

Wool from high-altitude sheep makes for great insulation, and VOORMI takes full advantage of this trait. The company’s Thermal II and Alpine Terra base layers weave Merino wool from Rocky Mountain herds with synthetic fabrics for the best of both worlds: breathable, moisture-wicking tops and bottoms that will keep you warm in the coldest of climates. VOORMI has expanded into outerwear with the same concepts: Its new Inversion jacket melds the comfort of a sweater with serious weather protection for backcountry excursions. Base layers $70–$129, mid layers $199–$249, jackets $339 or $500 (Inversion jacket); voormi.com.

4. Zeal Optics Z3 GPS Goggles

Ski goggles with an augmented-reality readout that looks straight out of Iron Man, Zeal’s Z3 GPS niftily tracks your speed and vertical feet covered on an eye-level viewfinder. It also records your runs so you can map your day out after the fact on Google Earth. But it would all be for naught if it weren’t a great goggle, featuring scratch-proof lenses and anti-fog technology. Upgrade to the HD2 Camera Goggles ($499.99), to take action photos or videos and transfer them to your smart phone, or the Z3 GPS Live ($599), for Bluetooth connectivity and automatic tint-changing technology. $99; www.zealoptics.com.

7. Apex Ski Boot Systems

The paradigm-shifting two-part Apex system combines the comfort of snowboard boots with the stability of ski boots. Using the revolutionary Boa Focus Closure System, you strap the Walkable Support Boots into the Open Chassis, an exoskeleton that features customizable flex and cuff alignment for a better fit than your typical ski boot. Then, when it’s time for lunch or après-ski, you simply remove the inner boot for walking around, instead of lumbering about like Frankenstein’s monster. $595–$1,295; apexskiboots.com.

8. Shinesty Ski Suits

Expect nothing less than the flashiest on-mountain fashion from Shinesty. The company’s unmistakable one-piece ski suits feature boisterous star-and-stripe designs or definitive patterns from the ‘80s and ‘90s in blindingly bright hues for skiers and snowboarders who truly want to stand out. And its sleeping-bag onesies meld a ski suit with a place to sleep for the ultimate in convenience. Ski suits $249.99, onesies $110.99–$129.99; www.shinesty.com.

9. Arc’teryx Fission Gloves

These cutting-edge gloves balance durability and dexterity with features that keep warmth in and weather out: GORE-TEX and leather construction, PrimaLoft insulation, elastic wrist cuffs, and a gauntlet that layers nicely

over a jacket. Designed based on an anatomical map of the hand, these gloves offer a grip that’s perfect for planting poles on steep downhill runs. $179; www.arcteryx.com.

10. Meier Skis

Forests across the West have been hit hard by wildfires and the voracious mountain pine beetle in recent years. Colorado-based Meier Skis sustainably sources local aspen and beetle-kill lodgepole pine to not only handcraft high-performance skis, but also promote responsible forestry and healthy forests. The skis’ transparent top sheets reveal the springy, lightweight, wooden cores that make for a smoother ride than that of skis built with manmade materials, and they’re notably responsive and durable to boot. $695–$995; meierskis.com.

6. Wham-O Arctic Force Snowball Blaster

Sometimes snowball fights escalate into snowball wars, and that’s when you need more than just a strong arm and good throwing motion. Wham-O Arctic Force’s Snowball Blaster ups the ante for your post-blizzard melee with a removable snowball maker that shapes perfect orbs and launches them at adversaries at a range of up to 80 feet. The Arctic Force line also includes crossbows and slingshots to round out your snowball arsenal. $16.99–$34.99; www.wham-o.com.

5. Molson Runner Sleds

With a frame made of aircraft-grade anodized aluminum, a bamboo deck, and 2.5-inch-wide runners that can handle powder and hard-packed snow, Molson Runner Sleds’ Alpine Classic is the Cadillac of sleds. The side tubes aren’t just for holding on for dear life: They’re also the perfect place for a mountable video camera! $429.99; www.molsonrunnersleds.com.

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Sometimes you need a peaceful retreat; other times, a creative one. A stay at the John C. Campbell Folk School provides both. Nestled in a quiet North Carolina valley, between the Great Smoky Mountains and the Chattahoochee National Forest, the school’s been offering craft, art, music, and culinary classes for more than 90 years. We chatted with Jan Davidson, executive director since 1992, on everything from Anthony Hopkins to kaleidoscopes.

A Q&A with Jan Davidson, Head of the John C. Campbell Folk School

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Interview by Rob Tallia

How did you first get involved with the folk school?

Being from nearby Murphy, NC, I’ve known about the school since my childhood. I started visiting in the first grade. It was pretty clear even then that it had a different educational paradigm than Murphy Elementary.

Have you ever lived elsewhere?

As a young man, I couldn’t wait to see the world. I lived in Washington, DC, where I worked for the U.S. Senate, as well as in Boston, MA, and Edinburgh, Scotland. In 1975, while living in New York City, I was part of a musical and performance group. We played softball against the cast of Equus, which featured Anthony Hopkins. As Sir Anthony and I were the two worst players on the field, we wound up talking for most of the game.

When did you start to play music, and why?

My daddy was a great piano player, mainly in the New Orleans style. I picked up the banjo, fiddle, guitar, and harmonica. I play mainly for dances but also with The Dog Branch Cats, an old-timey southern Appalachian string band named after a local creek. If you search for Chloe and the Oneders on YouTube, you can see me on guitar with my daughter’s band performing “Somebody to Love You.”

How did you become the head of the school?

I had been the curator of a museum at Western Carolina University and knew a lot about the history of the area. I also had experience writing grants. Being from Murphy and knowing the school as well as I did probably didn’t hurt, either.

What do you guys do that’s unique among folk/craft schools?

The idea behind any folk school is a Scandinavian one of no judgment and no grades. The world tends to compete when it doesn’t know what else to do. A folk school is noncompetitive. We’re all about, “Hey folks, here’s your school.”

What are some of your favorite classes to either sit in on or visit?

Well, of course, the cooking classes. You get to kill two birds with one stone in those, if you know what I mean. And the vibe is much more “Grandma teaching you how to make cookies,” as opposed to that of a competitive chef show. So that’s nice.

The kaleidoscope-making classes are wacky. People don’t even notice that you’re there, as they’re too busy staring into tubes pointed toward the light. Blacksmithing is fun—lots of noise, fire, and organized movement. And finally the beginning music classes; by the second or third day, people are just in heaven—having dreamed all their lives about playing music and finally doing it.

Exactly Like the Pictures

Jan Davidson.... . . making music (and you can, too!)

What craft have you always wanted to do yourself but haven’t yet made time for?

Landscape painting in an Impressionist style. The vistas around here just cry out for it, and I’ve always wanted to use Old Master techniques to try and capture some of what I see.

What craft is your favorite to work on in your free time (if you have any!)?

Bricolage. I love to get a bunch of junk, put it together, and see what I can make. I once made a junk boat out of extra wood from the shop. That was a lot of fun.

What student feedback has made you feel proud of the work that you do with the school?

Two come to mind. One woman said, “When I meditate in Wisconsin, I think about the folk school,” which made me happy. And another woman said that the school was “. . . the only place I have ever been that looks exactly like the pictures.” So at least we’re not overselling the place on our website!

What is the funniest feedback you’ve received?

It was something a student wrote on an end-of-week comment sheet: “The class was great, the food was delicious, and the teacher was wonderful. The only problem was that my roommate was inconsiderate and slovenly. But, since I’ve been married to him for 26 years, I guess it’s not your problem.”

What else would you like to tell folks about the school?

Well, just that we’d love to have you down here. Unfortunately, we’ve been affected by the new North Carolina [anti-transgender bathroom] law. One of our alumni was planning a family reunion down here, but the family decided they didn’t want to be in North Carolina due to the law’s passage. But we have a strict nondiscrimination policy here at the school. You can even be really tall, have big floppy ears, and be covered in pink fur, as you can see from the picture of me welcoming the Easter Bunny on our website!

For more information (and to see Jan with the Easter Bunny), visit www.folkschool.org. Or stop by or call: 1 Folk School Rd., Brasstown, NC, 800/365-5724.

Blacksmithing class Fun with noise and fire

Paint This!Inspiring panoramas!


Need a romantic getaway that will get your two hearts beating—or even racing—as one? At these five spa resorts across the United States and into Canada, you can share an invigorating experience, retreat to a pampering place, and rekindle that spark.

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Grotto (top) and Soulstice Suite at Two Bunch Palms.

2 Two Bunch PalmsDesert Hot Springs, CA

Escape winter’s chill and immerse yourselves in the hot, healing, lithium-rich waters of this Palm Springs–area oasis, about 120 miles east of Los Angeles. Swim and soak (day or night) in its boulder-edged grotto fed by a waterfall. And pack lightly; you can go anywhere on the property—even into the Essence restaurant—wearing your resort bathrobe and slippers.

Put your heads together and choose from a multitude of activities: More than a dozen group movement and enrichment classes are offered every week, or request a private couples session in the yoga dome. In the coed spa, indulge in mineral-rich mud baths—side-by-side and up to your necks in gooey goodness.

Channel your inner artists by signing up for the resort’s Vino and Van Gogh, a combo painting session and wine tasting. And before you leave, bang the drum slowly at the spiritual drumming class led by a resident shaman. 67425 Two Bunch Palms Trail, (800) 472-4334, www.twobunchpalms.com.

Resorts That Will Take Your Breath Away

1 Naples Bay ResortNaples, FL

Sail away to an uninhabited barrier island. A flotilla of pleasure boats is moored at this resort’s lagoon, and the smaller ones—equipped with a radio, map, and GPS—can be rented and operated by the two of you alone. The resort’s harbormaster will help you set a course for Keewaydin Island on the Gulf of Mexico. Larger boats, with a captain and crew, are also available. Bring a picnic lunch along, or feast from the food boats that ply the waters here (one even specializes in margaritas).

Swim, sunbathe, and go shelling. Just be sure to return to the resort in time to see the sunset from your private water-view balcony—the best show in town. You’ll also appreciate your room’s oversize shower and bathtub. Suites have a full-size kitchen, yet you may prefer dining at 1500 SOUTH, where Art Smith (formerly Oprah’s private chef) conceived a menu of Southern dishes prepared with Italian flair. 1500 5th Ave. S., (866) 605-1199, www.naplesbayresort.com.

By Susan Breslow

5 Destinations for Romance, Relaxation, and Adventure

Naples Bay Resort guest rooms overlooking the marina.

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Jacuzzi at sunset (top) and sleigh ride (left) at Hôtel Sacacomie.

3 Mirror Lake Inn Resort and SpaLake Placid, NY

You may never feel closer to your significant other than when you’re holding on to him or her for life as you round the corners of the bobsled run on Mt. Van Hoevenberg at the Olympic Sports Complex in Lake Placid. This ½-mile thrill ride—where the two of you will be bracketed by a driver in front and a brakeman behind—reaches speeds up to 55 mph along the track where Olympic winter athletes competed in 1980.

It’s 5 miles from the complex to the Mirror Lake Inn, where you can warm up with side-by-side massages in the spa or quaff a local craft beer in The Cottage. Parking at the inn is complimentary, and the driveway is heated and kept ice free.

Find blissful seclusion across the way in a Mirror Lake Suite, with its huge tub-for-two, big comfy bed, fireplace, and private balcony overlooking the lake and high Adirondack peaks. When you’re ready for more winter adventures, snowshoe or cross-country ski on surrounding trails, or skate on either of two Mirror Lake rinks. 77 Mirror Lake Dr., (518) 523-2544, www.mirrorlakeinn.com.

4 Sundara Inn & SpaWisconsin Dells, WI

About 3½ hours northwest of Chicago, Wisconsin Dells is a top family-friendly destination, which makes the adults-only Sundara a true refuge for couples. There’s no shortage of soothing activities in spa suites designed for two and furnished with a featherbed, gas fireplace, and designer bathroom with chromatherapy lights.

Sundara isn’t afraid of the long Wisconsin winters; nor should you be. The heated pool and its radiant-heated stone deck, which also has a firepit alcove, are open year-round—as is the Meditation Trail, which winds through a pine forest to a clearing where double hammocks sway. Be aware, too, that Sundara’s serious about serenity: There’s a no-electronics policy (even e-readers) in common areas and a no-talking policy in specified areas.

If you prefer to try something daring—in a place where there’s no rule against squeals, whoops, and howls—hike or snowshoe to the nearby zipline course and then soar 100 feet above the pines and out over frozen waters. Still exhilarated after that adventure? Consider candlelight cross-country skiing in nearby Mirror Lake State Park. 920 Canyon Rd., (888) 735-8181, www.sundaraspa.com.

5 Hôtel SacacomieSaint-Alexis-des-Monts, Québec

Cross the border to reach this winter wonderland 90 miles northeast of Montréal. When you hear dogs barking, you’re getting close. With a kennel 10 minutes away, this is the place for dogsledding; just decide beforehand who gets to be the driver and who gets to sit swaddled in warm blankets as you mush through snowy wilderness. If that doesn’t get your hearts racing, borrow snowshoes or cross-country skiing equipment from the resort and follow the marked trails.

There are more pine trees than people around Hôtel Sacocomie, which borders a wildlife reserve. That’s why this log-built hotel and spa provides all-inclusive meal plans featuring Québécois fare. Think pancakes with real maple syrup (made from sap tapped on the premises); locally caught trout; oozy, melted raclette cheese; and, of course, poutine (French fries topped with brown gravy and cheese curds).

A junior suite with a wood-burning fireplace and a balcony overlooking Sacocomie Lake is the optimal place for l’amour in this French-accented hideaway. Not only are rates reasonable for a hotel that offers so much, but an advantageous exchange rate means that your U.S. dollars go further. Don’t forget to bring your passport or passport card. 4000 Yvon-Plante Rd., (888) 265-4414, www.sacacomie.com.

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Jackson Hole, WY

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10By Eric Peterson

Wild & Wonderful Winter Experiences

Yeah, we know. It’s cold. It’s snowing. It’s winter. It’s also

one whole quarter of the year—way too long to make like a

bear and hide in your cave. Subzero temperatures? Blizzard

conditions? Bring ‘em on. Get your gear (see pages 7–9), and

get outside. Here are 10 wild, wonderful ways to embrace

winter in the United States and in Canada, where folks really

get this season.

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1. Drive the IcefieldsAlberta, Canada

It’s one jaw-dropping view of the Canadian Rockies after another on the Icefields Parkway (www.icefieldsparkway.ca), a 144-mile road between Jasper and Banff national parks. Make a week of it: Start at Jasper’s Marmot Basin (1 Marmot Rd., 866/952-3816, www.skimarmot.com) ski area, and then take the parkway south to Banff for some ski time at one of its three resorts: Mt. Norquay (Mt. Norquay Rd., 403/762-4421, winter.banffnorquay.com), Sunshine Village (1 Sunshine Access Rd., 877/542-2633 www.skibanff.com), and Lake Louise (1 Whitehorn Rd., 877/956-8473, www.skilouise.com).

2. Go Fat or Go HomeCrested Butte, CO

Crested Butte is one of the bike-friendliest mountain towns on the planet. Why let the snow slow you down? Ultra-plump, 4-inch-wide tires let you pedal your way through snowdrifts. Big Al’s Bicycle Heaven (207 Elk Ave., 970/349-0515, www.bigalsbicycleheaven.com) offers rentals in town, and the Nordic Inn (14 Treasury Rd., 800/542-7669, nordicinncb.com)—at the base area of Crested Butte Mountain Resort (12 Snowmass Rd., 877/547-5143, www.skicb.com)—offers a Fat Bike Experience package.

3. Spot Winter WildlifeYellowstone National Park, WY/MT/ID

About 4 million visitors ventured into Yellowstone National Park (www.nps.gov/yell) last year, and roughly 98 percent of them came in the summer. In winter, the bears might be hibernating—but crowds are nonexistent, and it’s a great time to see the other wildlife. Bison, wolves, foxes, coyotes, and moose are all out and about in this rugged winter wonderland.

There are four modes of winter transport: snowshoes, cross-country skis, guided snowcoaches, and snowmobiles. The park has a list of permitted snowcoach and snowmobile operators on its website, including Scenic Safaris (545 N. Cache Dr., Jackson, WY, 307/734-8898, www.scenic-safaris.com) and Backcountry Adventures (224 N. Electric St., West Yellowstone, MT, 406/646-9317, www.backcountry-adventures.com). The in-park Old Faithful Snow Lodge & Cabins (307/344-7311, www.yellowstonenationalparklodges.com), which is open between mid-December and late-February, makes a great base.

4. Go on an All-Terrain TearMultiple Locations

Sure, the chairlift is faster; but there’s something to be said for earning your downhill turns by slapping some climbing skins on a pair of skis and hiking your way uphill. An increasing number of resorts offer all-terrain (AT) uphill routes (with strict policies for their use).

Top AT-skiing guides in the western United States include Paragon Guides (210 Edwards Village Blvd., Edwards, 970/926-5299, paragonguides.com), west of Vail, Colorado; the Salt Lake City–based Utah Mountain Adventures (801/550-3986, www.utahmountainadventures.com); and California’s Alpine Skills International (www.alpineskills.com), whose winter headquarters is at the Sugar Bowl Ski Resort (629 Sugar Bowl Rd., Norden, 530/426-9170, www.sugarbowl.com) in the Lake Tahoe area.

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5. Soak in a Hot SpringMultiple Locations

After a day of playing in the snow, there’s nothing more zen than a good hot-spring soak (and, perhaps, a spa treatment). It’s even better with a clear view of the Milky Way. Our picks? Well, in Colorado there’s Strawberry Park Hot Springs (44200 County Rd. #36, 970/879-1517, strawberryhotsprings.com) outside Steamboat Springs; The Springs Resort & Spa (165 Hot Springs Blvd., 800/225-0934, www.pagosahotsprings.com) in Pagosa Springs; and Glenwood Hot Springs (415 E. 6th St., 800/537-7946, www.hotspringspool.com) in Glenwood Springs.

Heading to Utah, instead? Try the Homestead Resort (700 N. Homestead Dr., 888/327-7220, homesteadresort.com) in Midway. Then, in the Great White North, there’s Banff Upper Hot Springs (1 Mountain Ave., Banff, Alberta, Canada, 800/767-1611, www.hotsprings.ca) in Banff National Park.

6. Ski SquawlywoodLake Tahoe, CA

Home of the 1960 Winter Olympics, Squaw Valley (nicknamed “Squawlywood”) is a very California kind of ski resort. It’s huge, with 3,600 acres across six High Sierra peaks; it’s relatively warm thanks to the highest peak’s elevation of 9,050 feet, which is lower than many Colorado base areas; and it has blue-water views (did we mention Lake Tahoe?). The Squaw Valley Resort (1960 Squaw Valley Rd., Olympic Valley, 800/403-0206 www.squawalpine.com) and its sister property Alpine Meadows, just over the ridge to the south, are the places to ski Tahoe. And, if the glitzy après-ski scene at Le Chamois and the Loft Bar (530/583-4505, www.squawchamois.com) is any indication, they’re also the places to see and be seen.

Glenwood Hot Springs pool.

Biking near Crested Butte Mountain Resort, CO.

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Fitzgerald Marine Reserve, Moss Beach, CA.

By Rob Tallia

Stories from the Sea4 Great Year-Round

Beachcombing Spots

Snow ghosts: frozen apparitions in the wintry Whitefish, MT, landscape.

snow-sculpture competition, night parades, cariole rides, sleigh races, and Yukigassen (organized snowball fights). There’s also plenty of the signature Caribou cocktail (red wine, whiskey, and maple syrup) and plenty of appearances by mascot Bonhomme, a 7-foot, 400-pound snowman who has his own ice palace during the event.

Although festivities are held citywide, most take place in the city’s historic walled core and adjacent Plains of Abraham in Battlefields Park. For a one-of-a-kind stay, check into the Hôtel de Glace (1860 Blvd. Valcartier, Valcartier, 877/505-0423, www.hoteldeglace-canada.com), an ice hotel (open Jan.–Mar.) about 2½ miles north of the city.

10. Pray for SnowBreckenridge, CO

Ullr, unlike his stepfather Thor, hasn’t starred in any blockbuster movies, and he doesn’t have a magic hammer. But the Norse god of snow has one thing that the god of thunder doesn’t: an annual Rocky Mountain festival in his honor. Ullr Fest (Jan. 11–14, 2017; www.gobreck.com/events) gets into full swing with a wild and wooly parade, featuring all manner of Ullr-themed floats and plenty of high jinks, and ends with a bonfire and fireworks. In-between highlights include an ice plunge, a film festival, and Ullympics events (the ski-boot relay is a hoot).

Starting two weeks later, artists competing in the International Snow Sculpting Championship (Jan. 28–Feb. 7, 2017; www.gobreck.com/events) create intricate sculptures ranging from fairytale characters to elephants to castles. During either event, book into the slick, ski-in/ski-out Grand Lodge on Peak 7 (1979 Ski Hill Rd., 970/453-3330, www.grandlodgeonpeak7.com) or downtown’s historic Abbett Placer Inn Bed & Breakfast (205 S. French St., 970/453-6489, www.abbettplacer.com).

7. Discover SkijoringMultiple Locations

For the uninitiated, skijoring is animal-powered skiing. Some skijorers simply take their dogs to cross-country ski areas, but the big events involve horses—the perfect merger of cowboy culture and the ski-bum lifestyle. Horse/rider/skier teams compete for glory on courses with jumps, chutes, and other features. Among the annual events: Colorado’s Leadville Ski Joring (Mar. 3–5, 2017, www.leadvilleskijoring.us), Wyoming’s Jackson Hole Skijoring (Feb. 11–12, 2017, www.jacksonholeskijoring.org), and the World Invitational Skijoring (Jan. 28–29, 2017, www.whitefishskijoring.com) in Whitefish, Montana.

A visit to Whitefish also gives you the chance to experience another unique seasonal phenomenon. Add winter winds to Big Mountain trees encrusted with heavy coats of rime ice—essentially, frozen fog—and the result is “snow ghosts.” They’ll keep you company as you cruise down the picture-perfect slopes at Whitefish Mountain Resort (Big Mountain Rd., 877/754-3474, skiwhitefish.com), perched above the picture-perfect ski town of the same name.

8. Learn About SnurfingWoodstock, VT

Here’s a perfect New England winter getaway: A stone’s throw from the venerable Woodstock Inn & Resort (14 The Green, 888/338-2745, www.woodstockinn.com) you’ll find nearly 20 miles of groomed cross-country ski trails, the Tubbs Snowshoes and Nordic Adventure Center, and the Suicide Six Ski Area—one of America’s oldest (circa 1910) and, in 1982, the host of the first National Snow Snurfing Championships. And what did snow snurfing ultimately become? Snowboarding!

9. Party in QuébecQuébec City, Canada

Carnaval de Québec (Jan. 27–Feb. 12, 2017; carnaval.qc.ca) is the real deal. Held most years since 1894, it attracts around a million people with a roster that includes a canoe race on the frozen St. Lawrence, a


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Calvert Cliffs, MD

Checking the Fossil Record

Sanibel Island, FL

A Sheller’s Dream

It’s hard not to find some secret cove or hidden treasure in America’s great watershed, Chesapeake Bay. With more than 11,000 miles of shoreline and innumerable beaches and inlets, it has something for everyone, including the beachcomber—specifically, the fossil beaches of Maryland’s Calvert Cliffs State Park (10540 H.G. Trueman Rd., Lusby, 301/743-7613, dnr.maryland.gov/publiclands).

Here you’ll find countless Miocene Era (10 to 12 million years ago) remnants, including shark teeth and oyster shells. You can also take in the views from Calvert’s boardwalks, or head down the coast to see the operational Cove Point Lighthouse (3500 Lighthouse Blvd., Lusby) or the paleontology exhibits at the Calvert Marine Museum (14200 Solomons Island Rd., Solomons, 410/326-2042, www.calvertmarinemuseum.com).

Gear Up: Actually, the operative phrase here is “bundle up.” Average winter temperatures run from the upper 20s and 30s F to the upper 40s and 50s F. There is, however, an off-season perk: This park has peak-time visitor limits, so a cool-weather junket pretty much ensures entry. Also, for

serious archaeological work, bring a pail and a sieve.

Wind Down: In the coastal town of Solomons, head to The Striped Rock (14470 Solomon Island Rd. S., 410/326-2424, stoneysseafoodhouse.com/thestripedrock) for its mouthwatering crab cakes, diverse local brews, and killer views of the Patuxent River and graceful Governor Thomas Johnson Memorial Bridge. Afterward, unwind at Back Creek Inn (210 Alexander La., 410/326-2022, www.backcreekinnbnb.com), a waterfront B&B where rooms are named for herbs; book the Lavender Cottage for a cozy space (with a gas fireplace) all your own.

While the rest of America bundles up, southern Florida gears up—for its annual influx of snowbirds fleeing winter’s cold grasp. The region has many natural treasures: endless mangrove swamps, two national parks (Everglades and Biscayne Bay), dozens of wildlife and wetlands preserves. And, curving out into the warm waters of the Gulf of Mexico like a cupped hand, there’s Sanibel Island, a must-see destination.

Why? Because its beaches are piled high with an endless array of shells, a phenomenon that’s duplicated in just a few other places in the world. Shelling here is so popular that the “Sanibel

Stoop” is a local name for the classic beachcomber posture. Sand dollars, conches, tulip shells, and dozens of other varieties are here for the collecting (as long as there aren’t any live critters in residence). Don’t miss the Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum (3075 Sanibel-Captiva Rd., Sanibel, 239/395-2233, www.shellmuseum.org), which has an astounding collection of specimens from all over the globe.

Gear Up: Given that the coolest month, January, sees average highs in the mid-70s F (and lows in the mid 50s), and there’s little rainfall, particularly in winter, you need lots of good, strong

sunscreen! Sunglasses (polarized versions are best for shell hunting in the bright coastal sun), hats, swimwear, water shoes, beach cover ups, and buckets also make the list.

Wind Down: After a day of conchology, head about 24 miles northeast to Fort Myers, where craft breweries like Point Ybel Brewing Company (16120 San Carlos Blvd. #4, 239/603-6535, www.pointybelbrew.com) and Smokin’ Oyster Brewery (340 Old San Carlos Blvd., 239/463-3474, www.smokinoyster.com) await.

Later, kick back at the South Seas Island Resort (5400 Plantation Rd., Captiva Island, 866/565-5089, www.southseas.com), a splurge-worthy yet family friendly beach resort, or The Parrot Nest (1237 Anhinga La., Sanibel Island, 239/472-4212, parrotnest.com), a budget-friendly retreat with cute efficiency rooms tucked away amid cypress trees.

Icy winds, burning sun, foggy drizzle . . . no matter the prevailing conditions or the season, America’s sandy shores attract beachcombers. And there are, essentially, two types: die-hards, who spend hours shuffling up and down, head bent, looking for treasures that tell stories from the sea, and dilettantes, who like to poke around for a bit, but who are just as excited about getting back in the car and driving to the nearest watering hole for a bite and a brew.

This article is geared to the former. Mostly. But despair not, brewpub aficionados. The more interesting the beach, the more likely it will have nearby places to warm up, cool down, and—regardless of the weather—whet your whistle or rest your head.

Fossil found on the beach at Calvert Cliffs State Park (left). Cove Point Lighthouse (above right).

Sanibel Island: Beachcombers (above) and colorful seashells from the Gulf of Mexico (below).


Moss Beach, CA King of Tide (Pools)4

Fort Bragg, CA A Sea of Glass3

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The farther north you head from San Francisco, the wilder California’s coast becomes. And, at the headlands of Mendocino and Noyo Bay, the pounding surf and fog provide a moody backdrop at a treasure-inside-a-treasure: Glass Beach in MacKerricher State Park (707/937-5804, www.parks.ca.gov), 3 miles north of Fort Bragg, along Highway 1.

The glass, almost unbelievably, was the result of coastal garbage dumping in the first half of the 20th century. Later, cleanup and decomposition of all but the smooth, colorful shards and pebbles created a beachcomber’s delight. So much so, in fact, that glass removal is now forbidden. Fortunately there’s a large display

(and sea-glass jewelry for sale) at the nearby International Sea Glass Museum (17801 N. Hwy. 1, Fort Bragg, 707/357-1585, www.internationalseaglassmuseum.com), run by retired Captain Cass Forrington.

Gear Up: As you can “take only pictures, leave only footprints,” a good camera (or, at least, your smart phone) is a must—for artistic, textured shots of just the glass or scenic shots of the glassy beach and rocky coast. Binoculars are also a good idea: seals often congregate on offshore rocks, and whale sightings are common in winter and spring. With average year-round highs in the 50s to 60s F (lows in the 40s), light- to mid-weight layers (including a

This time, point your car south from San Francisco toward quaint Moss Beach and its slightly larger neighbor, Half Moon Bay, in San Mateo County. In Moss Beach, it’s all about the famous tide pools at the Fitzgerald Marine Reserve (200 Nevada St., 650/728-3584, parks.smcgov.org). At low tide, a panoply of live creatures—colorful sponges, wavy anemones, pulsing sea stars—is revealed. Casual observers and scientists all gaze (but don’t touch) admiringly at this saltwater pageant.

Fewer than 20 miles away, there’s more proof of the Golden State’s biodiversity at the Purisima Creek Redwoods Preserve (650/691-1200, www.openspace.org/preserves), rising up off Skyline Boulevard (aka Hwy. 35), overlooking Half Moon Bay. From sea creatures to giant coastal redwoods in 20 minutes—where else but in California, we ask you?

Gear Up: As at Fort Bragg, you’ll need a camera, binoculars (again

to spot whales), and layers. Here, though, pay special attention to your footwear: sturdy water shoes for warmer-day tidal-pool exploration; light but waterproof hiking boots for cooler days and/or combo shore-and-forest excursions.

Wind Down: After checking the tidal pools and hiking through redwoods, head into Half Moon Bay. What’s better than a Not For Sale Ale, a Kobe Brew burger, and live music at the Half Moon Bay Brewing Company (390 Capistrano Rd., 650/728-2739, www.hmbbrewingco.com)? Well, maybe a spa treatment at the bluff-side Ritz-Carlton (1 Miramontes Point Rd., 650/712-7000, www.ritzcarlton.com) or curling up fireside at the Nantucket Whale Inn (779 Main St., 650/726-1616, www.nantucketwhaleinn.com), a chic B&B in a classic downtown Victorian.

water-resistant top layer) will serve you well at any time.

Wind Down: Quench your thirst with a Red Seal Ale or a Scrimshaw Pilsner at North Coast Brewing Company (455 N. Main St., Fort Bragg, 707/964-2739, www.northcoastbrewing.com), which has live jazz on Friday and Saturday nights. Warm up in the outdoor hot tub at the Shoreline Cottages (18725 Shoreline Hwy., Fort Bragg, 707/964-2977, www.shoreline-cottage.com), or get a massage in the forest at The Stanford Inn By the Sea (Coast Hwy. and Comptche Ukiah Rd., Mendocino, 707/937-5615, www.stanfordinn.com)

MacKerricher State Park’s Glass Beach, where polished sea glass (above) is beautiful and abundant but, alas, not for the taking.

Fitzgerald Marine Reserve: beachcombing the tide pools (above); a leather star (below).

By Lori Erickson

Pilgrimages for the Mind, Body & Soul

S P I R I T E DA w a y

Spa Eastman Eastman, Québec, Canada

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Niches with a bodhisattva (devotional figure) and other items, Green Gulch Farm Zen Center, Muir Beach, CA


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These havens elevate education to a spiritual discipline. You

come for a weekend, a week, or even longer to immerse yourself in studies that will expand your mind and initiate change in your life. Interacting with other guests is often an invaluable part of the experience.

Omega Institute Rhinebeck, NY

This is the place to come for stimulating ideas and personal renewal. Founded in 1977, the Omega Institute offers workshops, conferences, retreats, and rejuvenation on its 250-acre campus in New York’s Hudson River Valley. Lecturers have included anthropologist and United Nations Messenger of Peace Jane Goodall, economic and social theorist Jeremy Rifkin, Buddhist nun Pema Chödrön, and alternative-medicine advocate Deepak Chopra. Subjects include leadership, creativity, the healing arts, relationship building, and environmental stewardship. 150 Lake Dr., (877) 944-2002, www.eomega.org.

Esalen Institute Big Sur, CA

The institute that launched the human-potential movement more than five decades ago continues to influence individuals—and society as a whole—in profound ways. Located on 120 acres set between the Pacific Ocean and Santa Lucia Mountains, Esalen offers cutting-edge programs that explore mind-body-spirit connections. Past speakers have included physicist Fritjof Capra, religious scholar Huston Cummings Smith, and spiritual teacher Ram Dass; folksinger Joan Baez was an early resident. The annual roster sees hundreds of workshops; the daily roster includes farm-to-table meals, holistic-healing sessions, and hot-springs soaks with views of crashing waves. 55000 Hwy. 1, (888) 837-2536, www.esalen.org.

Breitenbush Hot Springs Detroit, OR

People have been visiting these Cascade Mountain hot springs for millennia. At this resort, southwest of Portland and in a remote part of the Willamette National Forest, you can stay in rustic cabins or the campground (vegetarian meals are included); soak in outdoor pools (clothing is optional); and attend holistic and spiritual workshops, conferences, and gatherings (more than 150 are held each year) in the Historic Lodge, Forest Shelter, or Cedar River Yurt. Find still more peace by walking the labyrinth or meditating in the Sanctuary or Buddha’s Playhouse. 53000 Breitenbush Rd., (503) 854-3320, www.breitenbush.com.

You don’t have to be Buddhist to benefit from the instruction provided by these meditation centers.

M E D I TAT I O NM e c c a s

All welcome beginners as well as advanced practitioners. Even on a silent retreat, you’re likely to find the company of like-minded seekers helpful.

Insight Meditation Society Barre, MA

Founded in 1975, the Insight Meditation Society is one of the oldest meditation retreat centers in the Western world. Its teachings are rooted in Theravada Buddhism, specifically in vipassana (insight) and metta (loving- kindness) meditation. Its rural, 400-acre site in central Massachusetts encompasses two facilities. The Retreat Center offers silent meditation courses that range in length from a weekend to three months. The Forest Refuge is for those who want independent, less-structured retreats. The faculty hails from around the world. 1230 Pleasant St., (978) 355-4378, www.dharma.org.

Shambhala Mountain Center Red Feather Lakes, CO

High in the Rockies northwest of Fort Collins, this 600-acre center is affiliated with Tibetan Buddhism. Its centerpiece is the magnificent, 108-foot Great Stupa of Dharmakaya: brilliantly painted, adorned with gold leaf, and designed to promote harmony and aid meditation. You can study Buddhism and indigenous wisdom traditions, participate in other spiritually oriented programs, or simply soak up the clear mountain air on your own private retreat. 151 Shambhala Way, (888) 788-7221, www.shambhalamountain.org.

Green Gulch Farm Zen Center/Green Dragon Temple Muir Beach, CA

One of the San Francisco Zen Center’s three temples, Green Dragon is near Muir Beach in Marin County, 11 miles north of the Golden Gate Bridge. Founded in 1972 as a training temple, the center has 40 permanent residents and offers daily, weekend, and weeklong classes and workshops as well as longer retreats. Each Sunday, a free public program offers zazen instruction, a dharma talk, tea, and lunch. Stay in the Japanese-style retreat house to complete the experience. 1601 Shoreline Hwy., (415) 383-3134, www.sfzc.org/green-gulch.

Organic nursery at Green Gulch Farm Zen Center (top left). The Art Center at Esalen Institute (top right). Breitenbush Hot Springs (above).

pilgrimage—a trip taken for a spiritual purpose—is timeless, as old as a sacred trip to Jerusalem’s Church of the Holy Sepulchre and Western Wall and as new as a reverent visit to New York’s National September 11 Memorial & Museum and St. Paul’s Chapel in nearby Trinity Church.

In the face of rapid change, endless digital distractions, and bewildering uncertainty, people are increasingly seeking ways to slow down, focus, and find some clarity. Is it any surprise that spiritual travel has become so popular?

Today’s pilgrims, though, aren’t just kneeling in prayer in cathedrals or chanting mantras in ashrams—they’re also rebooting at self-improvement seminars, regrouping at destination spas, and working out their physical and mental kinks on yoga retreats.

Here and throughout this issue, we suggest pilgrimages—some traditional, others less so—that will help you disconnect from the world, reconnect with yourself, and rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul.

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Yoga is offered at many spiritual retreat centers, but the following places specialize in this ancient Indian discipline. Practicing asanas at one of these centers is very different from

Spiritual Small TownsThese towns are small in size but big in spirit. Soak up the atmosphere, mingle with the locals, and learn from those who’ve found these places to be full of spiritual energy.

Lily Dale, NY: Spiritualism is the primary religion in this southwestern New York hamlet—a place where the paranormal is regarded as utterly normal. Founded in 1879 by freethinkers who believed they could access the spirit world through séances, Lily Dale continues to be a home to psychics, channelers, and mediums. While you’re here, you can attend a workshop or schedule a private consultation. www.lilydaleassembly.com.

New Harmony, IN: In the 19th century, two utopian communities thrived here on the banks of the Wabash River in southern Indiana. Peaceful New Harmony still draws dreamers and idealists. Explore the historic district, and then walk the two outdoor labyrinths: one made of hedges and modeled after a design from the original settlers; the other a single path based on the labyrinth at Chartres Cathedral in France. www.visitnewharmony.com.

Fairfield, IA: Home to the Maharishi University of Management (MUM), which blends traditional academics with Transcendental Meditation, this Midwestern town has a spiritual vibe. Even if you don’t get the chance to

meditate beneath MUM’s two golden domes, you can still soak up the creative energy in the town’s stores and restaurants or on a Friday evening art walk. www.travelfairfield.com.

Crestone, CO: Tucked below the towering Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Crestone is perfect for both inner and outer explorations. It has fewer than 150 permanent residents, but pilgrims from around the world come to its spiritual centers, which include a Roman Catholic monastery, Zen and Tibetan Buddhist communities, Hindu ashrams, and New Age healing centers. www.townofcrestone.org.

Sedona, AZ: With its many crystal shops and psychics-for-hire, Sedona is a New Age mecca. What’s more, the surrounding red rocks are considered energy vortexes—places where meditation and inspiration come easily. You’re bound to recharge your spiritual batteries on strolls along Sedona’s streets or hikes through the countryside. www.visitsedona.com.

doing so during an afternoon yoga session at the local Y. Immerse yourself in the teachings of top-notch instructors to gain insights that will revitalize your practice at home.

Kripalu Center for Yoga and Health Stockbridge, MA

On a hilltop overlooking Lake Mahkeenac and the Berkshires of western Massachusetts, Kripalu offers 35 types of holistic-healing practices, but its central focus is yoga. Whether you’re a newbie or a teacher seeking advanced training, Kripalu has a program for you—from therapeutic or relaxation yoga to yoga/activity combinations such as meditation or yogic breathing (pranayama) and Ayurvedic healing. Although the center can accommodate more than 650 guests, you can always find peaceful places—like Swami Kripalu’s Meditation Garden—for reflection and contemplation. 57 Interlaken Rd., (866) 200-5203, kripalu.org.

White Lotus Santa Barbara, CA

Founded in 1967 by Ganga White and Tracey Rich, pioneers in American yoga, White Lotus is known for its teacher training but welcomes practitioners of all skill levels to its yoga retreats. Located on 40 acres in the mountains above Santa Barbara, accommodations include dome-shape yurts overlooking the Pacific Ocean. In addition to classes, you can take guided hikes; enjoy massages and other holistic treatments; and meditate in an underground, Hopi-style kiva. Gourmet vegetarian meals help fuel your practice. 2500 San Marcos Pass, (805) 964-1944, www.whitelotus.org

Kalani Pahoa, Big Island, HI

Kalani occupies 120 acres bordered by rain forest and the Pacific Ocean, so the soundtrack to its yoga programs—taught by both resident faculty and visiting instructors—includes crashing waves and birdsong. You can also take workshops on Hawaiian culture, have a therapeutic bodywork treatment in a warm pool, and participate in Kalani Ecstatic Dance. Accommodations are rustic but comfortable; ocean breezes provide the air-conditioning. 12-6860 Kalapana-Kapoho Beach Rd., (800) 800-6886, kalani.com/yoga.

Y O G AR e t r e a t s

Yurt village at twilight, White Lotus (left). The Point Meditation at Kalani (top right).

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At resort and day spas, you can book slivers of time for a brief healing cocoon. At destination spas, cocooning is the whole experience! Most are all-

inclusive or have all-inclusive packages covering healthful meals and some spa treatments as well as fitness, lifestyle, and wellness classes. Many are in locales that are as scenic as they are serene. Indeed, during a typical (generally, multiday) stay, you might never leave the property. When you do depart for home, though, you’ll be rested and refreshed.

Spa Eastman Eastman, Québec, Canada

What’s widely regarded as one of Canada’s top spas occupies 326 rolling, wooded acres an hour’s drive east of Montréal. Many of the 44 rooms, which are arranged in seven pavilions, overlook nearby Mont-Orford National Park. Onsite are indoor and outdoor pools, gardens, and about 9 miles of trails. Spa Eastman’s personalized Health Immersion packages will help you manage stress, lose weight, or achieve other life goals; wellness workshops lend insight on maintaining spa serenity at home. 895 Chemin des Diligences, (800) 665-5272, www.spa-eastman.com/en/eastman.

Canyon Ranch Tucson, AZ

Founded in 1979 and set amid the harshly beautiful Sonoran Desert landscape and the Santa Catalina Mountains, the original Canyon Ranch has 150 acres of cactus and flower gardens, fountains, and pools. (Its success spawned the opening of a second Canyon Ranch in Lenox, MA, in 1989). Up to 240 guests can enjoy the Southwestern-style accommodations, spa pampering, and innovative health and fitness activities such as guided hikes, rock climbing, and the High Ropes Challenge Course. The resort’s integrative medicine programs draw on both Western and Eastern traditions, from bone-density and biomarker testing to acupuncture and healing-energy therapies. 8600 E. Rockcliff Rd., (800) 742-9000, www.canyonranchdestinations.com/tucson.

Rancho La Puerta Tecate, Baja California, Mexico

Founded in the 1940s and one of the first of its type, Rancho La Puerta is a mecca for spa enthusiasts. You come for an entire week—flying into San Diego and taking a shuttle bus/van 3 miles south of the U.S. border—during which time you and about 140 other guests bond into a community. Days are spent enjoying spa treatments, art or culinary classes (the resort has its own organic farm), wellness workshops, and fitness/outdoor activities. Evenings might include music, movies, or guest speakers. All offerings take full advantage of the resort’s 3,000 acres below Mt. Kuchumaa, a peak considered sacred by the area’s indigenous people. Carretera a Tijuana, Km 5, (800) 443-7565, www.rancholapuerta.com.

An evening at Rancho La Puerta (above left). High Ropes Challenge Course, Canyon Ranch (top right).

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Long before the Europeans arrived, the native peoples of this land recognized that certain places have powerful

spiritual energy. These sacred sites still draw seekers. You can join them for an afternoon, a weekend, or longer to connect with the ancient holy traditions of North America.

Pipestone National Monument Pipestone, MN

Durable but still soft enough to be carved, the pinkish-red pipestone (aka catlinite) prized by Native Americans for making ceremonial pipes has been quarried here for three millennia. This site in southwestern Minnesota is also considered sacred by many tribes, who in ages past set aside their differences to quarry in peace. Today, many Native Americans still travel long distances to chisel stone out of the formation. During your visit, you can see demonstrations on how the pipes are made and walk on nature trails that wind through the 282-acre site. 36 Reservation Ave., (507) 825-5464 x214, www.nps.gov/pipe.

Bear Butte State Park Sturgis, SD

On the prairie just east of the Black Hills and sacred to tribes that include the Lakota and Cheyenne, Bear Butte (its silhouette resembles a sleeping bear) has long been a site for vision quests and sweat lodges. Parts of the mountain are reserved for Native American ceremonial use, but a public trail winds to the top. On the 45-minute hike to the summit, you’ll see tobacco bundles, brightly colored flags, and other offerings draped across tree limbs, evidence of the reverence that many feel for this windswept promontory. 20250 Hwy. 79, (605) 347-5240, www.gfp.sd.gov/state-parks.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument Chinle, AZ

Jointly managed by the Navajo Nation and the National Park Service, this site (pronounced “canyon d’shay”) in northeastern Arizona is one of North America’s longest continuously inhabited landscapes. Its two major canyons include more than 2,500 archeological sites dating back 5,000 years. About 40 Diné (Navajo) families live here. You can learn about the area’s rich spiritual traditions at the visitor center, on ranger-led programs, and on canyon tours offered by Navajo guides. Be sure to take the scenic rim drives for gorgeous views of the red sandstone cliffs. Hwy. 191 to Hwy. 7, (928) 674-5500, www.nps.gov/cach.

Trip Planning ResourcesTo find still more places to rejuvenate—across the nation and beyond—try the following.

Faith Travel Association: This sister organization of the National Tour Association has information on tour operators and other businesses that serve the faith-based market. www.ntaonline.com.

International Spa Association: Get information on top-quality spas worldwide from this industry organization whose members must adhere to exacting standards. experienceispa.com.

Native America Travel: This travel site, sponsored by the nonprofit American Indian Alaska Native Tourism Association (www.aianta.org), offers guidance on exploring native cultures throughout the United States. nativeamerica.travel.

Retreats: Both Retreats Online (www.retreatsonline.com) and Retreat Finder (www.retreatfinder.com) offer information on spiritual and healing retreats around the globe.

United States Tour Operators Association: This site’s “Dream Vacation” tool will help you find all types of packaged vacations—to destinations throughout the world—offered by the group’s member tour operators. www.ustoa.com.

Spa at Rancho La Puerta

34 35AMERICAN “ZEN” ISSUE GETAWAYGETAWAY AMERICAN “ZEN” ISSUE Xav

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Spiritual SpacesThese architectural marvels, which provide inspiration to seekers of all faiths, embody the adage “God is in the details.”

Temple Emanu-El, Miami Beach, FL: Modeled after a synagogue in Algeria—and with a copper dome more than 10 stories high—Temple Emanu-El is an eclectic blend of Moorish and Byzantine architecture. It’s a treasured part of the vibrant South Beach district, with a congregation that values the arts and includes both long-time residents of Florida and more recent transplants. www.tesobe.org.

BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir, Lilburn, GA: This elaborately decorated mandir (temple) illustrates the increasing presence of Hinduism in America. Inaugurated in 2007, the structure is made of more than 34,000 individual pieces of Turkish limestone, Italian marble, and Indian pink sandstone that were carved in India and assembled on site. It’s a center for social and cultural activities as well as worship. www.baps.org/atlanta.

Islamic Center of America, Dearborn, MI: In the heart of America’s largest Muslim-American community, the Islamic Center of America features a mosque that can accommodate more than 5,000 worshippers. With a large central dome surrounded by a pair of minarets and four smaller domes, the center welcomes all who are interested in learning more about the world’s fastest-growing religion. www.icofa.com.

Hsi Lai Temple, Hacienda Heights, CA: Hsi Lai (which means “coming to the West”) is constructed in the style of an ancient Chinese monastery. You can come here to learn more about Buddhism and Chinese culture and to find refreshment in its themed gardens and in the serene interior of its temple. www.hsilai.org. Clockwise from top left: Inside the Temple Emanu-El, exterior of BAPS Shri Swaminarayan Mandir,

interior detail of the Islamic Center of America, exterior of Hsi Lai Temple.

National Cathedral, Washington, DC: While officially Episcopal, the National Cathedral considers itself a spiritual home for the entire country. Neo-Gothic in design, its cornerstone was laid in the presence of Theodore Roosevelt (1907); its final piece was completed under the eye of George H.W. Bush (1990). The cathedral is at its grandest during state funerals, but its inherent holiness is present even on an ordinary day. cathedral.org.

National Cathedral: Interior view of the nave.

37AMERICAN "ZEN" ISSUE GETAWAY

The Moments in Between

By Morgan Rachel Levy Over the past three summers in Grand Teton and Yellowstone, I’ve watched and photographed people waiting. I’ve observed visitors, cameras poised in hand or on tripods, eager to capture the activity of the parks. They wait for Old Faithful to erupt or for the elusive moment when wildlife briefly makes itself seen.

Unlike these particular visitors, I collect quieter moments that convey a palpable sense of stillness and ambiguity. When the geyser sends water shooting into the sky or when the wolf pup peeks its head out, I put my camera down. The moments that sandwich this activity—the before and after—is where I find meaning.

To wait is to be in limbo. It is a state of transition. Wherever I travel, an unrelenting interest in people or places in transition fuels my work.

Some photographs serve as artifacts to help remember a place exactly as it was. I aim to create enigmatic pictures to suggest that there is more substance to connect with beyond the surface of the photograph. Landscapes are simply the raw materials with which I try to convey broader ideas about themes like transition and loss that resonate in all of us.

Photographing Stillness in Grand Teton and Yosemite

Visitors paddle on Jenny Lake at the base of the Grand Tetons.

The Boiling River at dusk (opposite).



Watching for a mother grizzly and her cubs (above).

Waiting for Old Faithful. (right)

Grand Prismatic Spring seen from a nearby hillside.


Photographing at the Grand Prismatic Spring.

A flurry of downy tufts fly from trees as a storm rolls in to Grand Teton (opposite).

GETAWAYSNo Trouble in Paradise p. 44

Choose Your Desert Adventure p. 51

Powder Daze p. 59

Wood Works p. 66

When the Smoke Clears p. 71

Finding Old Florida p. 76

Pick an Island . . . Any Island p. 82

So, You Want to Go to Harvard . . . p. 90

Makai Golf Club in Princeville, Kaua‘i.

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No Trouble in ParadiseBeaches, Botany & More on Kaua‘iBy Rob Tallia

The Hawaiian paradise known as the Garden Isle is truly a place where you can leave all your troubles behind. Formed by powerful volcanic activity about 6 million years ago, Kaua‘i is the oldest of the archipelago’s “big four” islands, which also include Oahu, Hawai‘i (the Big Island), and Maui. It’s also the smallest, farthest north, and least populated of the four—and Kaua‘i’s Waimea Harbor was Captain James Cook’s first Hawaiian landfall in 1778.

Few roads pierce Kaua‘i’s mountainous interior, so hiking to waterfalls or canyons hidden amid vertiginous greenery is a great way to experience the island’s splendor. So is driving along the coast—on a not-quite-completely-connected highway—to pristine beaches where you can snorkel or scuba dive beneath deep-blue bays, to any of 10 scenic golf courses, and to quaint towns and botanical gardens. A whopping seven botanical gardens are here, with three affiliated with the National Tropical Botanical Garden. The Contact List: Hawaii Tourism Authority, (800) 464-2924, www.gohawaii.

com. Kaua‘i Visitors Bureau, (800) 262-1400, www.gohawaii.com/kauai.

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Moreton Bay fig tree in Allerton Gardens, Po‘ipū (left). Sunrise at Po‘ipū Beach (above).


A Paradise Far, Far AwayThe Nā Pali Coast

You won’t find any roads along the 17-mile Nā Pali Coast, but the extra effort it takes to reach and explore this untamed region is well worth it. Soaring emerald cliffs, pristine coves, and amazing sea life make the concerns of daily life seem far, far away.

The moderate-to-difficult Kalalau Trail stretches 11 miles from the trailhead at Ke‘e Beach to Kalalau Beach, but the 2-mile (one-way) trek from Ke‘e to Hanakāpī‘ai Beach is a popular day hike. Napali Kayak Tours (5075 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, 808/826-6900, www.napalikayak.com) will take you on a sea-kayaking adventure to secret coves and lava-formed caves (watch for sea turtles and dolphins). On less-strenuous but no-less-spectacular excursions with Sunshine Helicopters (Princeville Airport, 866/501-7738, www.sunshinehelicopters.com), you’ll gaze down at hidden waterfalls and steep cliffs draped in lush vegetation.

GETAWAYS - BEACHES, BOTANY & MORE ON KAUA‘I

A Bit MoreWailua Municipal Golf Course. Not only is this municipal golf course affordable, it’s also tucked between top-end resorts and spread atop a bluff overlooking the Pacific. It’s no wonder that many consider this to be Hawai‘i’s best public course. 3-5350 Kuhio Hwy., Lihue, (808) 241-6666, www.kauai.gov/golf.

Kilohana Plantation. Take a break from the beach and head inland to tour a sprawling plantation house, hop on a railway that snakes through a 100-acre estate, and then settle in for a taste (or two) from Hawai‘i’s only rum distillery, Kōloa Rum Company. At Gaylord’s Restaurant, classic Hawaiian dishes like ahi poke

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(raw tuna salad) and hoisin-glazed pork spare ribs go down easily. 3-2087 Kaumuali‘i Hwy., Lihue, (808) 245-9593, kilohanakauai.com/wp.

Kaua‘i Marriott Resort. Located just five minutes from Lihue Airport, this resort is a convenient base. Lounge by the fabulous pool or watch the kids splash on Kalapaki Beach. Duke’s Barefoot Bar is one of the best places to watch the sunset while sipping a pineapple mojito and noshing on fresh ahi sashimi and other pūpūs (appetizers). 3610 Rice St., Lihue, (808) 245-5050, www.marriott.com.

East is EastLihue, Kapa‘a & Wailua

After two (or more) flights to reach the Garden Isle from the mainland, you don’t want to be cooped up in a car. Problem solved: From Lihue Airport on Kaua‘i’s east coast, it’s just a five-minute drive to a picturesque bay . . . or a world-class golf course, forest preserve, stunning double-threaded waterfall, or full suite of perfect Hawaiian beaches. The Kuhio Highway connects Lihue (where you can stock up on provisions) with Kapa‘a, the island’s largest community, and Wailua, the jumping-off point for Wailua River State Park.

Beaches: Beaches or waterfalls? Normally, that’s a tough choice—but not here. One of the most gorgeous cascades you’ll ever see is just 10 minutes from the beach.

On your way north from Lihue to the family-friendly beaches of Lydgate Beach Park on Nalu Road, take a short detour to view the twin cascades of Wailua Falls in Wailua River State Park (3-5920 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa‘a 808/933-0416, dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp). Finish the day at Donkey Beach (aka Paliku Beach), just north of Kapa‘a in Kealia, which truly feels like a secret beach. Even the turnoff from Kuhio Highway to Paliku Point (Makanani St.) is unmarked. Park near Mile Marker 11, then walk 15 minutes to the beach.

Botany: No trip to Hawai‘i is complete without a lū‘au, and Smith’s Kauai (3-5971 Kuhio Hwy., Kapa‘a, 808/821-6895, www.smithskauai.com) presents one of the island’s best. Also take time to explore Smith’s 30-acre botanical garden filled with native plants and fruits.

Pool area at the Kaua‘i Marriott Resort. (above). Wailua Falls in Wailua River State Park (top right).


Down SouthKōloa, Po‘ipū, & Waimea

Here’s the south shore in a nutshell: still more great beaches, even better weather (thanks to less rain than elsewhere on the island), and an amazing array of tropical foliage. The south shore is also a great base from which to explore the spectacular Waimea Canyon.

Beaches: Regardless of your preferences, the south shore’s beaches will suit you—particularly around Kōloa. Along Ho‘ona Road, the calm waters at Baby Beach are perfect for tykes. At the end of Hoowii Road, Po‘ipū Beach is one of the island’s most famous strips of sand and a well-known snorkeling and scuba diving spot. And at the end of Po‘ipū Beach Road, Kiahuna Beach is a great place for beginners to practice their snorkeling and surfing skills.

Botany: The National Tropical Botanical Garden’s flagship sites are the McBryde and Allerton Gardens (4425 Lāwa‘i Rd., Po‘ipū, 808/742-2623, ntbg.org/gardens). A combined tour of both is a must: McBryde’s orchids and “canoe” plants (brought to Hawai‘i by Polynesians in their canoes more than 1,000 years ago) give way to Allerton’s majestic Moreton Bay fig trees, featured in Jurassic Park.

A Bit MorePoipu Bay Golf Course. During a round on the course that hosted the PGA Grand Slam of Golf from 1994 to 2006, you’ll walk in the footsteps of Tiger Woods (who won the event seven times) and Phil Mickelson—all while listening to crashing waves. 2250 Ainako St., Kōloa, (808) 742-8711, www.poipubaygolf.com.

Shrimp Station. Get in line with the locals and order a shrimp burger or the famous coconut shrimp—and don’t forget the papaya-ginger dipping sauce to go with it. 9652 Kaumuali‘i Hwy., Waimea, (808) 338-1242, www.theshrimpstation.com.

Kaua‘i Island Brewery & Grill. After a day hiking in Waimea Canyon, relax with a Leilani Light from Kaua‘i Island Brewery while you post the day’s photos. 4350 Waialo Rd., Port Allen, (808) 335-0006, www.kauaiislandbrewing.com.

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Poipu Bed & Breakfast Inn. One of Kaua‘i’s best-kept secrets is its affordable bed-and-breakfast options. This friendly inn, a short walk from the shore, is no exception. It’s also close to the Kukui‘ula Village Shopping Center, perfect for some well-deserved retail therapy (and noshing). 2720 Hoonani Rd., Kōloa, (808) 639-0947, www.poipubedandbreakfastinn.com.


True NorthKīlauea, Princeville & Hanalei

The north coast of Kaua‘i has it all—pristine beaches, rugged coastline, endless fields of taro, fancy resorts, rustic bed-and-breakfasts, and top golf courses. The backdrop: Mt. Wai‘ale‘ale, one of the wettest places on Earth, which makes the greenery here especially stunning.

Connecting it all is the two-lane Kuhio Highway, which travels from the gentle curve of Kīlauea’s picturesque bay to the posh resorts and golf courses of Princeville. The scenic highway continues through the sleepy town of Hanalei before ending at a beach on the edge of Kaua‘i’s famed (and road-free) Nā Pali Coast.

Beaches: Chances are that your visit to Kaua‘i’s north shore will begin and end on one of its more than two-dozen beaches. You can start in Kīlauea at the aptly named Secret Beach, which is accessible from Secret Road (of course!) via a short trail. You’ll find plenty of sand and surf as well as intriguing black lava formations that jut into the ocean.

Along Kuhio Highway in Hanalei, Tunnels Beach is renowned for snorkeling; its waters teem with colorful tangs, wrasses, and butterflyfish. If you follow Kuhio Highway to the end, you’ll wind up at Ke‘e Beach, a reef-protected ocean lagoon and the jumping-off point for hikers and campers following the Nā Pali Coast trail.

Botany: One of the Garden Isle’s greatest treasures is the National Tropical Botanical Garden, which has three Kaua‘i sites including the lush Limahuli Garden and Preserve (5-8291 Kuhio Hwy., Ha‘ena, (808/826-1053, ntbg.org/gardens). Here, you’ll see a mix of native and ancient Polynesian plants and foliage and learn about conservation efforts to control more recently introduced “invaders.” Along an ocean-view loop trail, you’ll also learn about Kaua‘i’s ubiquitous taro crops.

A Bit MoreMakai Golf Club. Like many of the courses on Kaua‘i, where golf is a premier experience, this one designed by Robert Trent Jones has incredible ocean views. Indeed, the vistas here—of both Hanalei Bay and the glittering Pacific—make it hard to focus on your game. 4080 Lei O Papa Rd., Princeville, (808) 826-1912, www.makaigolf.com.

Hanalei Center. In this quaint shopping center, you’ll find three great dining choices: Hanalei Bread Company (808/826-6717), Chef Jim Moffat’s hip Bar Acuda (808/826-7081, www.restaurantbaracuda.com), and belly-filling Bubba Burgers (808/826-7839, www.bubbaburger.com). 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei.

St. Regis Princeville Resort. It’s no secret that the St. Regis chain is one of the world’s best, brightest . . . and priciest. Its Kaua‘i property, though, is a truly splurge-worthy paradise-within-a-paradise—from its plush suites and enormous beachfront infinity pool to its relaxing spa and world-class golf course. The sunset views across Hanalei Bay—from both the bar and the restaurant—are priceless. 5520 Ka Haku Rd., Princeville, (808) 826-9644, www.stregisprinceville.com.

Poipu Bay Golf Course (top right). Plumeria blossoms in McBryde Gardens (above right). St. Regis Princeville Resort (left).

Hanalei bay and pier (above).


Hawai‘i’s Grandest SecretWaimea Canyon

As lush and as lovely as Kaua‘i is, nothing about the landscape would lead you to suspect that the island is home to what Mark Twain dubbed “The Grand Canyon of the Pacific.” Yet, as you head north on State Highway 550 into Waimea Canyon State Park, the striated walls of the gorge begin to appear.

Forged from volcanic eruption and collapse and then hollowed out over millennia by water and erosion, the canyon extends deep into Kaua‘i’s interior for more than 10 miles. You can follow winding Highway 550 to the very end—Pu‘u O Kila Lookout—and then stroll the Pihea Trail for dazzling glimpses of the massive green slopes that tumble down to the ocean.

Along the way, and not to be missed, are the views of the uninhabited Nā Pali Coast from the Kalalau Lookout and the 800-foot, two-tiered Waipo‘o Falls, whose headwaters you can access via the 3.4-mile (round-trip) Canyon Trail. The more strenuous but equally rewarding Kukui Trail (5 miles round-trip) descends 2,000 feet into the belly of Waimea Canyon and to the Wili Wili Campground (if you’re up for an overnight stay). Otherwise, head back to the beach to soak those tired bones in the warm waters of the Pacific. Ahh, Kaua‘i. Waimea Canyon Dr., Waimea, (808) 274-3444, dlnr.hawaii.gov/dsp/parks.

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Choose Your Desert AdventureRev Up or Recharge in Palm Springs By Juliana Shallcross

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Waimea Canyon

Palm Springs has been a popular getaway, particularly for Los Angelenos, ever since Frank Sinatra and his Rat Pack pals began vacationing here in the 1950s. Their favorite R&R options? Playing golf, relaxing by the pool, and sipping cocktails. (Not necessarily in that order.)

The greater Palm Springs area consists of nine communities—all set in the Coachella Valley and all with fantastic views thanks to the surrounding San Bernardino, Little San Bernardino, Santa Rosa, and San Jacinto mountains. Choosing a base for exploring the region can be tough (each city has its own unique vibe and interesting offerings), but Palm Springs proper, Palm Desert, and Rancho Mirage are good bets.

All three have opportunities for Rat Pack–style R&R, whether you want to rev up with a round of golf or recharge with some sunbathing and/or a signature cocktail. That said, things have changed a bit since Sinatra’s time. Today, you can also enjoy spa treatments, admire mid-century modern design, shop for vintage items, go hiking or horseback riding, and drive through the sometimes quirky but always scenic desert. The Contact List: Palm Springs Bureau of Tourism, (800) 347-7746, www.visitpalmsprings.com. Greater Palm Springs Convention & Visitors Bureau, (800) 967-3767, www.visitgreaterpalmsprings.com.

Palm Springs, CA.


GETAWAYS - REV UP OR RECHARGE IN PALM SPRINGS

Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (below).

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Sounds Out of This WorldThe Integratron

For a completely far-out experience, head 47 miles north of Palm Springs to Landers, CA, at the edge of the Mojave Desert, and step into The Integratron. In the 1950s, aerospace engineer George Van Tassel

claimed to have been visited by the occupant of a UFO. This alien—who, according to Van Tassel, looked human—gave him detailed instructions for constructing a circular building that would extend life and make time travel possible.

Although the 38-foot domed building’s time travel capabilities haven’t, to anyone’s knowledge, been proven, its interior acoustics are superb. So, 60 years later, it has become a place for rejuvenation—in the form of sound baths. During these healing sessions, you lie on a mat for 25 minutes while quartz-crystal bowls are “played.” This unusual instrumental line-up is followed by recorded music for another 35 minutes. Folks claim that these sound baths help to reduce stress and lessen chronic pain. Regardless, this makes for an unforgettable California desert experience.

Pop-up sound baths have 25 to 30 people ($25 weekdays, $35 weekends/holidays). Private sessions accommodate smaller groups and allow children under 12 to participate ($250 for one to four people weekdays, $300 weekends/holidays). Both types require reservations. 2477 Belfield Blvd., Landers, (760) 364-3126, www.integratron.com.

Palm Springs108 miles southeast of downtown Los Angeles.

Palm Canyon Drive (aka Highway 111), the city’s main drag, coasts along the base of the San Jacinto Mountains through two distinct districts: Uptown—once the sleepier of the two but which now has lots of chic restaurants, bars, and shops—and Downtown. Hotels are abundant on or near the drive, especially along its southeastern stretch, where 21st-century makeovers have transformed old motor lodges into the hip Ace Hotel, the stylish V Palm Springs, and the colorful Saguaro.

Rev Up: The rotating cars of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway (1 Tram Way, 888/515-8726, www.pstramway.com) take you 8,516 feet up into the San Jacinto Mountains, providing jaw-dropping views from every angle. At the top, you can hike along some of the 50 miles of trails or opt for a leisurely lunch or dinner at one of two restaurants. Temperatures up here are about 30 degrees cooler than down below, so bring a jacket.

One way to take in the city’s famous mid-century art, design, and architecture is with Palm Springs Modern Tours (760/318-6118, www.palmspringsmoderntours.com). Its six-person-max excursions are led by local preservationist Robert Imber. Note, too, that Palm Springs has Modernism Weeks (www.modernismweek.com) in October and February.

Every Thursday evening, Downtown Palm Springs hosts the Village Fest (villagefest.org), a three-block street fair filled with goods from local artisans and shops. The city’s free trolley service, Buzz Palm Springs (new.buzzps.com), makes a stop nearby, freeing you up from the hassle of finding a parking space.

Recharge: Book a massage at the Estrella Spa at the Avalon Hotel Palm Springs (415 S. Belardo Rd., 760/318-3000, www.avalon-hotel.com/palm-springs). Treatments feature handmade body oils or butters infused with palmarosa, anise, St. John’s wort, and other herbs.

A healing soak at an inn or resort, many of which have day spas, in the city of Desert Hot Springs (www.visitdeserthotsprings.com), just 11 miles north, lets you commune with nature and yourself. The waters are said to increase circulation, stimulate metabolism, and relieve pain.

Spas at area resorts like Two Bunch Palms (see page 13) have incorporated Native American traditions and indigenous ingredients into their treatments. What’s more, the stunning landscape of nearby and well-out-of-cell-range Joshua Tree National Park (www.nps.gov/jotr) makes it easy to escape from modern life—whether you want to rev up or recharge.

Eat, Play & Stay Workshop Kitchen + Bar. Located inside a historic Spanish colonial–style building, this Uptown restaurant defies expectations with an industrial-chic interior. In 2015, Workshop even nabbed a James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant Design. The New American menu delivers dishes that are as fresh as they are sophisticated; the bar sticks to a simple-but-well-made philosophy. 800 N. Palm Canyon Dr., (760) 459-3451, www.workshoppalmsprings.com.

The Purple Room Supper Club. When this space opened in 1960 as part of the Club Trinidad Resort, it was an instant hit with Frank and pals. Today, the renovated lounge/restaurant—one of only two original Rat Pack hangouts left—serves updated dinner classics and live music. 1900 E. Palm Canyon Dr., (760) 322-4422, www.purpleroompalmsprings.com.

Melyvn’s Restaurant. The other extant Rat Pack hangout is the Ingleside Inn’s Melyvn’s Restaurant, where Frank held his rehearsal dinner in 1976, where

the decor is still Old Hollywood, and where they still serve Steak Diane just the way Frank liked it. 200 W. Ramon Rd., (760) 325-2323, inglesideinn.com.

Five Star Adventure Tours. Want more Rat Pack history? Sign up for this operator’s Legends & Icons Tour, which takes in several historic sites and passes the homes of celebrities—both contemporary and classic—including Frank’s Twin Palms estate, where he was known to send up a Jack Daniels flag on the front lawn to signal the start of cocktail hour. (760) 200-9483, www.fsatours.com.

V Palm Springs. This former Travelodge offers a contemporary take on the classic motel. The decor blends sleek modern elements with Native American touches: crisp white bedding, chevron-patterned mirrored headboards and throw pillows, horned skulls, dream catchers. The poolside Elixir bar serves Polynesian-themed fare in a nod to another mid-century fad: the tiki bar. 333 E. Palm Canyon Dr., (877) 544-4446, www.vpalmsprings.com.

V Palm Springs (above).


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Rancho Mirage7 miles southeast of Palm Springs.

Heading south along Palm Canyon Drive/Highway 111 eventually brings you to Rancho Mirage, another small community that’s big on relaxation thanks to a trifecta of resorts—the Ritz-Carlton Rancho Mirage, the Westin Mission Hills Golf Resort & Spa, and the Agua Caliente Casino Resort Spa. But, like the rest of the greater Palm Springs area, finding culture and adventure here isn’t hard to do.

Rev Up: At Sunnylands (37977 Bob Hope Dr., 760/202-2222, www.sunnylands.org), the former residence of philanthropists Walter and Leonore Annenberg, you can admire mid-century architecture (it was built in 1966), tour an extensive art collection, and wander through a 9-acre desert garden. The estate is often referred to as “Camp David of the West,” owing to the high-profile political events that happen here.

The fairly easy, 1.5-mile Butler-Abrams Hiking Trail (www.ranchomirageca.gov/residents/parks-trails) begins at Michael S. Wolfson Park and goes through Whitewater Wash. The route has both an asphalt path for hikers and a dirt path for horseback riders. Smoke Tree Stables (760/327-1372, www.smoketreestables.com) is one area operator that offers rides, including deeper explorations of the surrounding Agua Caliente Indian Canyons.

Recharge: The spa at The Ritz-Carlton Rancho Mirage (68900 Frank Sinatra Dr., 760/202-6170, www.ritzcarlton.com) has treatments like the Desert Wildflower Poultice Massage, which employs heated poultices made from indigenous organic herbs. In addition, celebrity hairstylist José Eber has a salon here (with advance notice, he’s been known to travel from Beverly Hills for appointments). If possible, schedule treatments for later in the day so you can take in the gorgeous desert sunset from the Ritz’s perch above the valley.

Horseback riders in Agua Caliente Indian Canyons (above). Evening at Sunnylands Visitor Center (below).

Spa at The Ritz-Carlton Rancho Mirage.


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Palm Desert5 miles southeast of Rancho Mirage.

Conveniently situated smack dab in the middle of Coachella Valley, Palm Desert is best known for its golf courses and sprawling resorts, which makes it an ideal spot to kick back. But Palm Desert has a few ways to shake things up, should resort life get a little boring.

Rev Up: The Sonora Desert, 1,080 acres of undisturbed acres of it, is the setting for The Living Desert Zoo & Gardens (47900 Portola Ave., 760/346-5694, www.livingdesert.org). The zoo has a butterfly habitat as well as those dedicated to creatures of the North American and African deserts. There are also wildlife talks, animal encounters, tours of the Tennity Wildlife Hospital & Conservation Center, an art collection, a model train display, a carousel, and an ant lab. Three loop trails of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty allow you to actively experience more of the preserve.

Desert Adventure Red Jeep Tours (760/324-5337, www.red-jeep.com) will take you along the San Andreas Fault in an open-air Jeep, educating you about Coachella Valley geology and history. Other, slightly less bumpy tours include trips to Joshua Tree National Park and excursions past Palm Springs celebrity homes.

Recharge: For pampering that includes shopping therapy, head to the El Paseo Shopping District, a block south of Highway 111 in downtown Palm Desert. The Shops on El Paseo (73-061 El Paseo, theshopsonelpaseo.com), an outdoor mall with high-end designer stores, anchors one end; farther on are all sorts of boutiques, antiques stores, galleries, restaurants, and salons and day spas.

Eat, Play & StayLas Casuelas Nuevas. This popular, award-winning, family-owned Mexican eatery serves homemade enchiladas, tacos, and fajitas. Go ahead: Indulge in a specialty margarita, the deep-fried ice cream, or both. 70-050 Hwy. 111, (760) 328-8824, www.lascasuelasnuevas.com.

Rancho Mirage Amphitheater. The star of Rancho Mirage’s community park is its new amphitheater, which hosts concerts throughout the year. If there’s no show on, the park has plenty of other activities, including playgrounds, exercise stations, and courts for playing pickleball, which combines elements of badminton, tennis, and ping-pong. 71560 San Jacinto Dr., (760) 324-4511, www.ranchomirageca.gov.

Aqua Caliente Casino Resort Spa. The casino games are a big draw at Agua Caliente, but it also hosts weekend concerts featuring pop and rock-and-roll headliners. In addition to the requisite pools, restaurants, bars, and spas, Agua Caliente, which is run by the Cahuilla tribe, also has some allergy-friendly rooms. 32-250 Bob Hope Dr., (888) 999-1995, www.hotwatercasino.com.

Play & StayDesert Willow Golf Resort. Two championship courses, a clubhouse with two restaurants and bars, and the Palm Desert Golf Academy are among this public course’s more traditional offerings. For something different, book a tee time for Footgolf, which combines soccer and golf (getting the ball closest to the hole is the name of the game). 38-995 Desert Willow Dr., (760) 346-0015, www.desertwillow.com.

JW Marriott Desert Springs Palm Resort. This quintessential desert resort has five pools, two championship golf courses, a spa, and six restaurants—including the popular Mikado Japanese Steakhouse, where teppanyaki chefs showcase their knife skills. It also has unusual features, namely a collection of exotic birds, a manmade lake with boat rides that depart from the lobby, and a Biggest Loser weight-loss clinic. 74-855 Country Club Dr., (760) 341-2211, www.marriott.com.

The course at Desert Willow Golf Resort (top). Desert Adventure Red Jeep Tours (right).

Jaguar at the Living Desert Zoo & Gardens


After a storm rolls off the eastern slope of California’s Sierra Nevada, the vast desert of the Great Basin saps its moisture. By the time that same storm hits the Wasatch Mountains, near Salt Lake City, it delivers some of the lightest, fluffiest snow in the West. North and south of Utah’s capital, you have your pick of world-class ski resorts. Whatever you seek—thrilling speed, waist-deep powder, or a beginner’s slope on either a romantic escape or family/friends getaway—you’ll find it here. The Contact List: Ski Utah, (800) 754-8824, www.skiutah.com. Utah Office of Tourism, (800) 200-1160, www.visitutah.com. Visit Salt Lake, (800) 541-4955, www.visitsaltlake.com. Park City Convention & Visitors Bureau (800) 453-1360, www.visitparkcity.com.

Powder Daze

By Eric Peterson

Skiing at Snowbasin Resort.

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#3A Ski-For-All in Utah’s Wasatch Mountains


Only in the California DesertQuirky Coachella Valley

Many people associate this valley with April’s Coachella Music & Arts Festival (splash.coachella.com), held in Indio, CA, and known for its cutting-edge line-ups and fun-loving quirk. But there are other only-in-the-California-desert places to experience throughout the year.

Salton Sea State Recreation Area. California’s largest lake, about 90 minutes south of Palm Springs, is actually 227 feet below sea level. High salinity levels due to agricultural runoff make it unpleasant for swimming, but, if you can bear the pungent smell of the salty air, two beaches along the east shore—Mecca Beach and Corvina Beach—are open for picnics and camping. 100-225 State Park Rd., Mecca, (760) 393-3052, www.parks.ca.gov.

Salvation Mountain. Near the Salton Sea’s southeastern edge, Salvation Mountain is a curious roadside attraction created by one man, Leonard Knight, using concrete, straw, colorful paint, and a strong conviction in the importance of the Holy Bible. www.salvationmountain.us.

Cabot’s Pueblo Museum. Cabot Yerxa, the man who put the mineral waters of Desert Hot Springs on the map, began construction on his hillside, Hopi-style pueblo in 1941, and he worked on it until his death in 1965. Today, it’s a museum that showcases Native American artifacts and art and offers a glimpse into the life of a desert homesteader. (No air-conditioning here!) 67616 E. Desert View Ave., Desert Hot Springs, (760) 329-7610, www.cabotsmuseum.org.

Salvation Mountain


Park City Mountain Resort (top). Old Town Guest House in Park City’s historic center (left). High West Saloon & Distillery (above right).

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Snowbasin ResortBest for Seclusion & Speed

3925 E. Snowbasin Rd., Huntsville, (888) 437-5488, www.snowbasin.com

Considered one of Utah’s best-kept secrets, world-class but crowd-free Snowbasin (44 miles northeast of Salt Lake City near Ogden) is plenty big: roughly 3,000 acres. It also has great terrain and a 2,960-foot vertical drop that, in Utah, is second only to Snowbird. It’s no wonder this was the site of downhill events for the 2002 Winter Olympic Games.

Novice: Take the Littlecat Express Lift for a few warm-up runs, then, once you’ve got your ski legs, jump on the Becker Lift for a longer beginner run in Bear Hollow. If you’re all skied out (or not that into skiing), the resort also has a lift-served tubing hill.

Experienced: Ride the tram to the summit of Allen Peak and test your mettle on the downhill courses used during the 2002 Winter Olympics. On the opposite side of the resort, the Strawberry Express Gondola will whisk you up Strawberry Peak for black and double-black skiing, but skip it when it’s socked in by clouds.

Round OutYour StaySalomon Center. This Ogden-based facility features indoor rock-climbing walls, a skydiving wind tunnel, a Flowrider surfing simulator, movie theaters, and restaurants. 2261 Kiesel Ave., Ogden, (801) 399-4653, www.salomoncenter.com.

Shooting Star Saloon. The state’s oldest (est. 1879) continuously operating bar has beer, quirky décor, and the inimitable Star Burger—a Polish sausage sandwiched in a double cheeseburger. 7350 E. 200 S., Huntsville, (801) 745-2002, shootingstarsaloon.co.

Atomic Chalet Bed & Breakfast. A 20-minute drive from Snowbasin, this low-key, European-style ski lodge offers such perks as ski-boot dryers and in-house ski tune-ups. 6917 E. 100 S., Huntsville, (801) 425-2813, www.atomicchalet.com.

Park City Mountain ResortBest for Snowboarders & Adventurers

1345 Lowell Ave., Park City, (800) 222-7275, www.parkcitymountain.com

The snowboarding venue for the 2002 Winter Olympics, Park City Mountain Resort (32 miles southeast of Salt Lake City) became the largest in the United States when it merged with adjacent Canyons Resort. Now it encompasses a whopping 7,300 acres—about 1,500 acres more than Big Sky, MT, the country’s second-largest ski area. Add to it a silver-mining-boomtown-turned-slick-ski-hub, and you’ve got the makings of a well-rounded winter vacation.

Intermediate: Nearly half the trails here are intermediate (blue), and there’s plenty of variety. After a few cruisers, graduate to the resort’s signature runs, steep black groomers free of the moguls and variable conditions associated with expert terrain at most resorts.

Experienced: Ski Utah’s Interconnect Tour (801/534-1907, www.skiutah.com/explore/the-interconnect-tour) allows experts to ski as many as six resorts in a single day. Guides take you on backcountry routes that link Park City Mountain Resort and Deer Valley with Alta, Snowbird, Brighton, and Solitude; lunch and transportation are both provided.

Round OutYour StayUtah Olympic Park. Two museums, training programs, zip lines, and hair-raising bobsled rides let you experience the thrills of the 2002 Winter Olympics. 3419 Olympic Pkwy., (435) 658-4200, utaholympiclegacy.org/park.

Historic Park City. Park City’s picture-perfect historic downtown has several blocks of colorful shops, restaurants, and lodging options. It’s also tethered to the slopes via the Town Lift. www.historicparkcityutah.com.

High West Saloon & Distillery. The first distillery to open in Utah since Prohibition eschews the state’s squeaky clean reputation with this boisterous barroom. Enjoy creative bar fare while sipping cocktails made using High West’s own spirits. You can also tour the production facility in the town of Wanship, 16 miles northeast of Park City. 703 Park Ave., (435) 649-8300, www.highwest.com.

Old Town Guest House. Nestled a few blocks from the main base area in Park City’s historic core, this inn is designed with skiers in mind, offering an outdoor hot tub, boot dryers, and great local advice. 1011 Empire Ave., (435) 649-2642, oldtownguesthouse.com.

GETAWAYS - A SKI-FOR-ALL IN UTAH’S WASATCH MOUNTAINS



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Zen and the Art of the Perfect TurnFinding Inner Peace on a Steep Slope

The meditative rhythm of skiing, turn by turn, pairs perfectly with the shrouded silence of a crisp winter day.

From the top of the mountain, it’s all downhill. Breathe deeply, push off, and empty your mind. Carve a

semicircle, plant your pole, and repeat. Don’t fear gravity . . . use it. It’s really that simple, but it’s also easier said than done—just like most things in life.

At the Alta Ski Area, Zen therapist Kristen Ulmer (801/733-5003, www.kristenulmer.com) offers two- and four-day intermediate and expert “Ski to Live” camps designed to help with “quieting your monkey mind.” The lessons employ the Zen mindset not only to help you improve your skiing technique but also to help you deal with self-doubt and anxiety off the slopes.

Ulmer, a former pro skier who’s been recognized as the world’s best female extreme skier, notes that skiing is 90 percent mental, and her focus on consciousness (rather than technical skills) has helped numerous skiers make big strides in the sport over the course of a weekend. Camps start at $590; lift tickets aren’t included.

Deer Valley ResortBest for a Splurge

2250 Deer Valley Dr. S., Park City, (800) 424-3337, www.deervalley.com

Ski resorts don’t get any ritzier than Deer Valley, 34 miles southeast of Salt Lake City. It’s a skier’s paradise (snowboarding isn’t allowed), and the notably upscale lodges are exquisite places to bunk, dine, or spa after a day on the slopes.

Novice: Take a few laps at the Wide West, a standalone beginner’s area served by two lifts, before moving on to longer green runs on Little Baldy Peak, accessed via the Jordanelle Express Gondola.

Intermediate: Served by four high-speed quad lifts, Flagstaff Mountain offers a plethora of intermediate (blue) runs, including several cruisers from the peak to the base.

Experienced: Deer Valley’s Bald Eagle Mountain was the site for mogul, slalom, and aerial events during the 2002 Winter Games. Try the Champion, Know You Don’t, and White Owl runs for those same three Olympian experiences, respectively. On Bald Mountain, thrill seekers gravitate to Mayflower Bowl and the experts-only chute of the same name.

Round OutYour StayMontage Deer Valley. This palatial mid-mountain lodge has lavish guestrooms; a 35,000-square-foot spa, Utah’s largest; and five restaurants, including Daly’s Pub & Rec, with old-school arcade games and bowling lanes. 9100 Marsac Ave., Park City, (435) 604-1300, www.montagehotels.com/deervalley.

Stein Eriksen Lodge. Named for its founder, the late Norwegian Olympic ski champion, this lodge sets a high bar for ski-in, ski-out luxury with sumptuous accommodations, a renowned spa, and high-alpine style. For a romantic dinner, look no further than Glitretind. 7700 Stein Way, (435) 649-3700, www.steinlodge.com.

Stein Eriksen LodgeFlagstaff Lodge at Deer Valley Resort (above).


Lights . . . Camera . . . SkiingSundance Mountain Resort

In the late 1960s, actor-director Robert Redford bought the small, family-run ski area that is now Sundance Mountain Resort (8841 N. Alpine Loop Rd., Sundance, 866/259-7468, www.sundanceresort.com). Marked by unforgettable views of majestic Mount Timpanogos, the alternately snowy and lush Provo Canyon (5 miles northeast of Provo and 41 miles southeast of Salt Lake City) proved an idyllic spot for a small resort. The 450-acre ski area now has four chairlifts, runs for all skill levels, and base lodging that effortlessly melds woodsy with chic.

But Sundance is about far more than skiing. In 1981, Redford established the nonprofit Sundance Institute (435/658-3456, www.sundance.org), which offers year-round filmmaking workshops at the resort’s base and produces January’s renowned independent film festival, the largest of its type in the U.S.

Sundance is also a good place to press the reset button. The Spa at Sundance (801/223-4270) dubs itself an “eco-spa” and offers treatments that draw on Native American traditions using natural ingredients. The Art Studio (801/223-4535) doubles as a gallery and a classroom for aspiring painters, potters, jewelers, and photographers.

The dining options showcase some serious culinary craftsmanship. The Tree Room (866/932-2295)—named for, yes, a tree in the middle of the room—is one of the region’s best restaurants, and the one and only Owl Bar (801/223-4222), a relocated 1890s bar once frequented by Butch Cassidy himself, also offers food and drink.


Alta Ski Area and SnowbirdSki & Summer ResortBest for Diehards & Powder Hounds

Alta: Hwy. 210, (801) 359-1078, www.alta.com

Snowbird: 9385 S. Snowbird Center Dr., (800) 232-9542, www.snowbird.com

Side by side in Little Cottonwood Canyon, 30 miles southeast of Salt Lake City, Alta and Snowbird are legendary resorts that you can ski using a single lift ticket. Both see an average of more than 500 inches of snow annually.

Iconic Alta feels tailor-made for downhill skiing. Open since 1938, it’s Utah’s oldest operating ski area, and, like Deer Valley, it prohibits snowboards. Sleek, modern Snowbird is one of the steepest and deepest resorts in the West, featuring the slick Cliff Lodge, home to a superlative spa, at the base and a high-speed tram to the 11,000-foot summit of Hidden Peak.

Visit Salt Lake sells the Ski City Super Pass (800/541-4955, www.visitsaltlake.com), good at Alta, Snowbird, Brighton Resort, or Solitude Mountain Resort. It also includes discounts on rentals and free transportation on Salt Lake City’s light-rail trains and buses.

Intermediate: A full 40 percent of the trails at Alta are designated intermediate (blue), so it’s hard to go wrong on any lift here. At Snowbird, you’ll find a nice variety of intermediate runs accessed via the Gadzoom, Mid-Gad, and Gad 2 lifts.

Experienced: From Alta’s base, take the Collins Lift to the West Rustler area, home to the resort’s highest concentration of expert runs. Snowbird’s tram accesses a trove of expert-only (double-black) runs in and around Peruvian Gulch and also offers entry into Alta.

Round OutYour StayAlta Lodge. Alta’s first hotel, opened in 1940, remains the benchmark ski lodge, with all the traditional trappings: jaw-dropping views, cozy rooms, two saunas, and the Sitzmark Club après-ski hangout. Rates include breakfast and a four-course dinner. 10230 UT 210, Alta, (800) 707-2582, www.altalodge.com.

Superior Peak in the Wasatch Mountains near Alta Ski Resort (left).

Cotton Bottom Inn. After a day exploring Little Cottonwood’s nooks and crevasses, stop in at the Cotton Bottom, near the mouth of the canyon, for addictive garlic burgers and cold beer. 6200 S. Holladay Blvd., Holladay, (801) 273-9830, cottonbottominn.com.

Sundance Mountain Resort: Spa at Sundance (left) and fireside dining in the Tree Room (below).

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Wood WorksA Grant Wood Tour of Cedar RapidsBy Lori Erickson

The eastern Iowa city of Cedar Rapids, the state’s second largest, takes great pride in its connection to one of America’s best-known artists. Grant Wood was born in 1891 on a farm 30 miles away and moved to Cedar Rapids when he was 10. He spent most of his life here, including years when he worked as a public school teacher, carpenter, and woodworker.

At the age of 39, Wood gained national fame after painting American Gothic (1930). He became a leader in American Regionalism, a term used to describe artists who, in the 1930s and ‘40s, depicted scenes of rural and small town America. During his lifetime, Wood’s sometimes acerbic, sometimes laudatory paintings of Midwestern landscapes and people attracted both controversy and praise.

The Cedar Rapids Museum of Art with a statue from the public art project Overalls All Over (opposite). Produce stands and artisan shops in the NewBo City Market, NewBo District (top).

As you tour Cedar Rapids, watch for artistically decorated fiberglass statues of the farmer and his daughter in American Gothic that make up the Overalls All Over installation. This public art project exemplifies the creative, can-do spirit that served the city well after a devastating 2008 flood. Building on its traditional strengths in manufacturing and agriculture-related industries, Cedar Rapids has nurtured the revitalization of neighborhoods such as the NewBo District, a magnet for artists and entrepreneurs.

After exploring the city, you can drive the 80-mile Grant Wood Scenic Byway, which winds through countryside depicted in some of Wood’s best-known works. Begin in Stone City, site of his 1930s art colony, and end in the picturesque Mississippi River town of Bellevue.Contact: GO Cedar Rapids, 87 16th Ave. SW, (319) 398-5009, www.gocedarrapids.com.

Getaway

#4


GETAWAYS - A GRANT WOOD TOUR OF CEDAR RAPIDS

Works from the Cedar Rapids Museum of Art: Grant Wood self portrait (right) and Spring in the Country (below). Brucemore mansion (top right).

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3.12A School for Creativity

The Stone City Art Colony

During the Great Depression, the Stone City Art Colony and School provided a creative haven that nurtured the careers of a number of Midwestern artists.

Grant Wood modeled the colony after those in Europe and on the East and West Coasts. For its home, he chose an idyllic village on the bank of the Wapsipinicon River, just a few miles from the farm where he was born. Recruiting fellow Midwestern artists as teachers and aided by friends Edward Beatty Rowan and Adrian Dornbush, he launched a school that operated for the summers of 1932 and 1933.

Wood’s dream was to help artists be inspired by Midwestern landscapes and themes, just as he was in his own work. About 100 students attended each summer, taking art-technique classes, working on projects, socializing, and exploring the area. Women stayed in an 1883 mansion, while men lived in refurbished ice wagons that were donated to the colony and then adorned with student-painted murals, adding to the festive atmosphere.

Despite its artistic successes and the national attention it attracted, the colony struggled financially and closed after two summers. But its legacy lives on: When Wood was named head of Iowa’s Public Works of Art Project (a program that became part of the Civil Works Administration, the predecessor of the Works Progress Administration), he employed many former pupils to paint murals at sites across Iowa. Many of these works still exist. And one of Grant Wood’s best-known paintings, Stone City, Iowa (painted in 1930 and now displayed at the Joslyn Art Museum in Omaha, Nebraska), commemorates his love for the village where the colony was based.

Grant Wood Studio and Visitor CenterAs a struggling artist, Wood lived in a modest apartment above a carriage house for 11 years. It was here that he painted American Gothic and other important works. The studio, which is owned by and just three blocks from the Cedar Rapids Museum of Art, is open weekends from April through December. Docents point out how the artist made the former hayloft a cozy home, with custom-built furniture and an early example of up-cycling: a coffin lid re-purposed to make a front door.

Good to Know: Wood was close to his mother, Hattie, and sister, Nan. Both served as models for his paintings, and Hattie lived with him in his studio. 5 Turner Alley/810 2nd Ave. SE, (319) 366-7503, www.crma.org.

Iowa Masonic Library & MuseumGrant Wood (who was a Mason) was commissioned to paint First Three Degrees of Free Masonry, whose three panels use classical Greek motifs to depict the passage of time and maturation of knowledge. Be sure to see some of the other treasures kept here as well, including a Civil War flag carried at the Battle of Vicksburg and an array of artifacts from around the globe.

Good to Know: Built of white marble, this is one of the world’s largest Masonic libraries, with a collection of rare books consulted by scholars in many fields. Note that it’s only open weekdays 8–noon and 1–5. 813 1st Ave. SE, (319) 365-1438, www.gl-iowa.org.

Catholic ZenPrairiewoods Franciscan Spirituality Center

Spirituality and ecology blend beautifully at Prairiewoods, a retreat center in the northern Cedar Rapids suburb of Hiawatha. Operated by an order of Roman Catholic Franciscan sisters, it takes its name

from 30 acres of prairie and 40 of woodlands. A commitment to environmental stewardship is expressed in its many earth-friendly features, including solar panels that provide nearly half of its electricity.

The center’s mission is to help people experience God’s presence in the world, and guests of all faiths are warmly welcomed. You can come for a day, weekend, week, or longer for programs that include explorations of spirituality and art, workshops on sustainable farming, yoga sessions, and classes on meditation and holistic healing techniques. Some sessions are led by Prairiewoods staff, others by visiting speakers.

If you’re craving even more solitude, stay in one of the hermitages and fall asleep to the sound of hooting owls and rustling trees. If you like, schedule a meeting with a spiritual director to guide your reflections. Whatever option you choose, you’re likely to leave Prairiewoods refreshed and renewed. 120 E. Boyson Rd., Hiawatha, (319) 395-6700, www.prairiewoods.org.

Veterans Memorial Building

Wood designed the stunning, two-story stained-glass window that dominates the front of this building, a mile southeast of the Iowa Masonic Library & Museum. Best viewed from the inside, it depicts a robed woman holding a palm branch of peace in one hand and a laurel wreath of victory in the other. Nan Wood Graham, Wood’s sister, served as its model.

Good to Know: The building, which is on an island in the Cedar River, is only open weekdays 7:30–5. 50 2nd Ave. Bridge, (319) 286-5038, www.cedar-rapids.org.

BrucemoreThis mansion was built in the 1880s by the Sinclair family who made a fortune in the meat-packing industry. In 1925, the second owners, the Douglas family, commissioned Wood to decorate a second-floor sleeping porch. A tour explains the connections between the artist and the Douglas family and also delves into the entertaining history of the landmark, which is part of the National Trust for Historic Preservation (don’t miss the Polynesian-themed bar in the basement).

Good to Know: The 26-acre estate, just 2 miles northeast of downtown, also hosts concerts, plays, festivals, and other events throughout the year. 2160 Linden Dr. SE, (319) 362-7375, www.brucemore.org.

Cedar Rapids Museum of Art Although you won’t see American Gothic (its home is the Art Institute of Chicago) at this downtown museum, you will see the world’s largest collection of Grant Wood’s art and be able to trace the development of his artistic style. Nurtured by short stints at art schools in Minneapolis and Chicago as well as trips to France, Italy, and Germany, Wood was initially influenced by Impressionism. He later found inspiration in the works of the Northern Renaissance artists, blending their more vernacular style with Midwestern themes. Works like Woman with Plants (1929) and Young Corn (1931) show the mature artist at work.

Good to Know: Wood loved the decorative as well as the fine arts, and he worked in a variety of media. One example of this is Corn Cob Chandelier for Iowa Corn Room (1925-26), a copper-and-iron work with corn cobs where the lightbulbs should be. Note that only a portion of the Grant Wood collection is on view at any given time, with works regularly rotated into and out of display. 410 3rd Ave. SE, (319) 366-7503, www.crma.org.

Grant Wood–designed stained-glass window at the Veterans Memorial Building (top right).


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In Dallas, barbecue isn’t just a cuisine. It’s a way of life. A lot of folks here have backyard smokers (often Texas-size), and they take their portable grills (sometimes Texas-size) to Cowboys, Rangers, and FC Dallas home games. If you’re visiting but don’t have your own grill in tow, worry not. An array of barbecue joints, both old-school classics and noteworthy newcomers, has you covered. Grab the handy wipes—you’ll need ‘em!

When the Smoke ClearsA Barbecue Tour of DallasBy Rob Tallia

Getaway

#5

GETAWAYS - A GRANT WOOD TOUR OF CEDAR RAPIDS

Play, Eat, and Stay National Czech & Slovak Museum & Library. Many Cedar Rapids residents are of Czech and Slovak origin, and this museum traces their history and culture. Particularly interesting are exhibits on the Prague Spring and life behind the Iron Curtain. 1400 Inspiration Place SW, (319) 362-8500, www.ncsml.org.

NewBo District. Short for New Bohemia, the NewBo neighborhood was damaged in the flood of 2008 but is in the midst of a renewal. Shop the produce stands and artisan shops in the NewBo City Market and enjoy a beer at the nearby Lion Bridge Brewing Company. 3rd St. SE, from 9th to 14th Ave. SE, (319) 432-9785, www.crmainstreet.org.

Farmer’s Daughter’s Market. Packed with eclectic gifts and housewares, many made by Iowa artisans, the market also serves desserts and lunches. In warmer months, its menu uses produce grown in adjacent

gardens. 495 Miller Rd., Hiawatha, (319) 294-7069, www.fdmarket.com.

Bata’s Restaurant. Located in a renovated NewBo storefront with oak floors and a tin ceiling, Bata’s serves upscale comfort food. 1006 3rd St. SE, (319) 261-2355, www.batasrestaurant.com.

Popoli Ristorante & Sullivan’s Bar. A 1912 “jewel box” bank designed by Louis Henry Sullivan houses Popoli, which specializes in Italian cuisine made of locally sourced ingredients. Reserve the Vault Room, which once held the bank’s valuables, for a special-occasion dinner. 101 3rd Ave., (319) 363-1248, www.popolicr.com.

The Hotel at Kirkwood Center. This sleek boutique hotel is a training center for students in hospitality and culinary programs at Kirkwood Community College. Its educational mission blends seamlessly with top-notch service. 7725 Kirkwood Blvd. SW, (319) 848-8700, www.thehotelatkirkwood.com.

Czech Village (top). Antiques and vintage shop in the Czech Village/NewBo/Main Street District (above).


GETAWAYS - A BARBECUE TOUR OF DALLAS

Old-School Classics

Sonny Bryan’s SmokehouseArlington Park/West Dallas

Authenticity oozes from this roadside joint—kind of like the way its barbecue sauce oozes out of the signature plastic Corona-bottle dispensers. Indeed, Sonny Bryan’s, whose sign looks like something from a Route 66 style guide, has served some of the city’s best ribs (and jalapeño sausage) at this location, the original, since 1958. Its barbecue legacy was further seared into the city by opening other branches over the years and by winning the James Beard Foundation’s America’s Classics Award in 2000. 2202 Inwood Rd., (214) 357-7120, www.sonnybryans.com.

Spring Creek BarbequePreston Hollow/North Dallas Started in 1980, this community-focused chain (note the scholarship-winner portraits on the walls) counts this North Dallas branch among its 20 Metroplex locations. Regardless of which one you choose, two aromas will compete for your attention: smoking meat and baking bread. You might be tempted to fill up on the fresh dinner rolls that are brought ’round in a big basket; but save room for the brisket, sausage, Chopped Baker (baked potato with chopped brisket, butter, sour cream, chives, and bacon on top), and the signature peach cobbler. 12835 Preston Rd., (972) 726-9002, www.springcreekbarbeque.com.

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Spring Creek Barbeque: What’s to eat (top) and where you’ll eat it (below).

Play & StayDeep Ellum. Bordered by U.S. 75, I-30, and the DART light rail, Deep Ellum has been a hip Dallas neighborhood since, oh, the 1920s, when Leadbelly and Bessie Smith were headliners at local clubs. Grab a Dallas Blonde golden ale from Deep Ellum Brewing Company (2823 St. Louis St., 214/888-3322, www.deepellumbrewing.com). Down a delicious burger at Angry Dog (2726 Commerce St., 214/741-4406, angrydog.com). And catch an up-and-coming band at local legend Trees (2709 Elm St., 214/741-1122, www.treesdallas.com).

The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza. Yes, this is where President John F. Kennedy was assassinated in 1963. And, yes, this museum does have a wealth of information and media (including the famous Zapruder film) on the tragic event. But it also has special exhibits on other slices of 1960s American history. 411 Elm St., (214) 747-6660, www.jfk.org.

Dallas World Aquarium. Stepping inside this unique (and privately run) aquarium/zoo is like stepping inside an office building overrun by jungle. In the eight-story Mundo Maya exhibit, storks, flamingos,

Dallas Arboretum

Baker’s RibsDeep Ellum

“Swine Dining Since 1988,” says the sign on Baker’s Ribs. This branch, one of several in Texas, anchors a corner in the famous Deep Ellum neighborhood. With pitmaster Joe Duncan fanning the flames, a trip here is a must—for the chopped brisket sandwich, pork ribs, and fried dessert pies, as well as for the skyline view from the rooftop deck. Note, too, that the daily breakfast menu has a truly unique dish: fried “breakfast pie,” stuffed with eggs, bacon or sausage, and cheese. Only in Texas, friends! 3033 Main St., (214) 748-5433, www.bakersribs.com.

Green + PeaceDallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden

Sometimes it feels as if everyone is buzzing around in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex . . . well, everyone except the wise

folks who take time to relax at the Dallas Arboretum and Botanical Garden. Join them on green explorations during peaceful strolls through the Color Garden (with its seasonal flora), Magnolia Glade, Crepe Myrtle Allee, and Pecan Grove.

The arboretum also has a weekly concert series by the shores of White Rock Lake, as well as a suite of educational offerings for children and adults, including tastings, crafts, photography, art, gardening, music, and more. All in all, it certainly beats sitting in traffic on the I-30! 8525 Garland Rd., (214) 515-6615, www.dallasarboretum.org.

jacanas, and other Yucatán Peninsula creatures flit about—just as those from South America do in the seven-story Orinoco rain forest exhibit. Other exhibits feature the wildlife of South Africa and Borneo. What makes the 20,000-gallon aquarium unique? A walk-through tunnel with close-up views of colorful Indo-Pacific sea life. Don’t miss the shark, otter, and penguin feedings. 1801 N. Griffin St., (214) 720-2224, www.dwazoo.com.

Belmont Hotel. One of the best classic-motel-to-hipster-crib conversions you’ll ever see, the Belmont is perched on a

bluff in West Dallas. Take a dip in the pool. Sip a martini on the terrace with a view of the skyline. And, of course, sample some upscale barbecue at Smoke, the Belmont’s award-winning in-house restaurant run by chef/co-owner Tim Byres. 901 Fort Worth Ave., (866) 870-8010, belmontdallas.com.

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Noteworthy Newcomers

The Slow BoneDesign District/West Dallas

Mouthwatering brisket (choose lean or fatty), local brews, and delicious sides of jalapeno mac ‘n’ cheese, cilantro sausage, hush puppies, and fried okra are all musts at The Slow Bone, opened in 2013 just a block from the Trinity River. Grab a cafeteria tray, and load it high, Texas style. Words to the wise: Arrive early (always a good rule when talking Texas ’cue), cause when they run out, they run out. 2234 Irving Blvd., (214) 377-7727, www.slowbone.com.

State of the ArtsThe Dallas Arts District

Drive around Texas long enough, and you’re sure to spot a special “State of the Arts” license plate that commemorates the state’s commitment to the arts. And you’ll find more than a dozen performance spaces and museums within the Dallas Arts District (www.dallasartsdistrict.org), roughly bordered by North St. Paul Street, Ross Avenue, and the Woodall Rodgers Freeway. On any given day, you can experience a world-class art show, an enlightening lecture, a classic opera, a science exhibit, and an outdoor concert, all the while surrounded by extraordinary postmodern architecture.

It all began in 1984 with the opening of the Dallas Museum of Art (1717 N. Harwood, 214/922-1200, www.dma.org) designed by Edward Larrabee Barnes. In addition to a powerful, eclectic permanent collection, the DMA hosts special exhibits that recently featured works by Jackson Pollock, Irving Penn, and Robert Smithson.

Next up was the 1989 I.M. Pei–designed Meyerson Symphony Center (2301 Flora St.), home to the Dallas Symphony. Today, it’s part of the AT&T Performing Arts Center (214/880-0202 box office, www.attpac.org), which opened in 2009 and has several performance spaces, including architect Norman Foster’s red-and-white Winspear Opera House (2403 Flora St.) and the curtain-walled Wyly Theatre (2400 Flora St.) designed by Rem Koolhaas.

But the offerings and postmodern architecture don’t end there. You’ll also find Renzo Piano’s single-story circa-2003 Nasher Sculpture Center (2001 Flora St., 214/242-5100, www.nashersculpturecenter.org), with its clean lines and sublime sculpture garden; the slashed cubic form of the Perot Museum of Nature and Science, (2201 N. Field St., 214/428-5555, www.perotmuseum.org), which was stunningly conceived by Thom Mayne of Morphosis Architects and opened in 2012; and the 2008 Brad Cloepfil–designed expansion to the Booker T. Washington High School for the Performing and Visual Arts (2501 Flora St., 972/925-1200, www.dallasisd.org/bookert), whose performances are often open to the public and whose graduates have included jazz trumpeter Roy Hargrove and singer-songwriters Edie Brickell, Erykah Badu, and Norah Jones.

Tired yet? Well, there’s always a spot of lawn (and, generally, a few food trucks) at the lovely Klyde Warren Park (www.klydewarrenpark.org), a 5.2-acre urban green space that opened in 2012 atop the Woodall Rodgers Freeway between Pearl and St. Paul streets.

GETAWAYS - A BARBECUE TOUR OF DALLAS

Lockhart SmokehouseBishop Arts District/North Oak Cliff

Since 2011, Lockhart Smokehouse has been bringing a Central Texas–style barbecue setup to the city’s trendy Bishop Arts District. You order your brisket, ribs, shoulder clod, and sausages (from the legendary Kreuz Market in Lockhart, TX, itself ) by the half-pound from a counter near the smoker, and it’s all served to you on butcher paper, along with sliced white bread and pickles. 400 W. Davis St., (214) 944-5521, www.lockhartsmokehouse.com.

Pecan LodgeDeep Ellum

How do you know this newcomer, which opened its brick-and-mortar Deep Ellum location in 2014, has become one of the holy grails of Dallas barbecue? Well, there’s the line snaking out the door and the five consecutive D magazine Best of the Big D awards. And then there’s the taste of, well, everything, from the masterful full-pound (or thereabouts) beef rib, pulled pork, and handmade sausages to the delectable Hot Mess (sweet potato, shredded brisket, chipotle cream, butter, cheese, and green onions) to the outlier Southern fried chicken. Is it worth the Texas-size wait? You bet. 2702 Main St., Dallas, (214) 748-8900, www.pecanlodge.com.

Outdoor dining (top) and a heaping sandwich (left) at Pecan Lodge. Perot Museum of Nature and Science:

T. Boone Pickens Life Then and Now Hall (top left) and the outdoor plaza (bottom left).


Capt. Anderson’s Restaurant & Waterfront Market in Panama City Beach (opposite). Sunset in Port St. Joe (above).

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Along the Panhandle’s Gulf Coast, there’s a stretch of Florida with a stubborn tendency to stick to the past. That’s partly out of preference but also because interstates are, refreshingly, miles away. Instead, coastal U.S. 98 and Highway 30A, a two-lane byway, offer scenic shoreline drives through three fascinating Old Florida towns and several intriguing hamlets.

The Contact List: Visit South Walton, (800) 822-6877, www. visitsouthwalton.com. Panama City and the Beaches, (800) 722-3224, www.visitpanamacitybeach.com. Apalachicola Bay Chamber of Commerce, (850) 653-9419, www.apalachicolabay.org.

Grayton Beach70 miles east of Pensacola.

Since its founding in 1890, perhaps the most exciting thing that’s happened in Grayton Beach is . . . well, not much has happened. In this laid-back town, low tech is in high demand. After passing upscale restaurants, shops, and galleries on the outskirts along Route 30A, you’ll find a collection of weatherworn cottages under a canopy of mossy oaks. This is Grayton Beach exactly as folks like it.

Finding Old Florida: Shielding the community from development, Grayton Beach State Park (357 Main Park Rd., Santa Rosa Beach, 850/267-8300, www.floridastateparks.org) protects almost 2,000 acres of pristine beaches and coastal forest. You can hike or bike 4.5 miles of trails or canoe, paddleboard, or kayak through Western Lake’s salt marsh. The birdwatching is also superb.

A few miles east of Grayton Beach is the community of Seaside (www.seasidefl.com), which you might recognize as the setting for The Truman Show, the 1998 movie starring Jim Carrey. Think subtropical, sun-kissed Nantucket, with a village green, postcard-perfect architecture, and eclectic stores and restaurants.

Finding Old FloridaConnecting the Docks Along the Gulf CoastBy Gary McKechnie

Getaway

#6


Florida: Old by NatureLook up (and around): This region is part of the Great Florida Birding Trail (floridabirdingtrail.com), whose website maps out migratory routes and species that, like human snowbirds, arrive in Florida every winter. Good bets for birding in the Panhandle include Grayton Beach State Park (wading birds, bald eagles, barred owls), St. Andrews State Park in Panama City Beach (snowy plovers, black skimmers, great blue herons, snowy egrets), and St. Joseph Peninsula State Park in Port St. Joe (snowy and piping plovers, gannets, loons, cormorants, ducks, raptors, songbirds).

Also, be sure to look down (and under): Far below the surface of the Gulf of Mexico, a dozen ships sit on the sandy floor. Purposely sunk to create artificial reefs that support sea life, the ships make up the Florida Panhandle Shipwreck Trail (www.floridapanhandledivetrail.com). This not only gives divers fascinating spots to explore but also gives decommissioned old vessels—from tugboats to an aircraft carrier (the USS Oriskany)—a new purpose. Dive shops from Port St. Joe to Panama City Beach and all the way to Pensacola can fill you in on locations and, if you’re a certified diver, arrange dive trips.

GETAWAYS - CONNECTING THE DOCKS ALONG THE GULF COAST

Beach houses in Panama City Beach (top right). Osprey (below). Fireworks at Pier Park in Panama City Beach (opposite bottom).

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Panama City Beach28 miles east of Grayton Beach.

Few Gulf Coast beaches are as popular as Panama City, and it’s not just Floridians and Alabamians (indeed, the region’s nicknamed “LA” for “Lower Alabama”) who love it. Folks come from all over to enjoy “sand so pure, it squeaks.”

During the last Ice Age, a glacier pushed its way down the Appalachian Mountains, crunching and compressing quartz crystals. Rivers and streams deposited the resulting residue on the shores of what is now Panama City Beach (PCB), where tides and storms pulverized it further. If you’re planning a visit nowadays, your timing is perfect: PCB’s 27-mile strand of sugar-white sand anchors the eastern end of Florida’s “Emerald Coast.”

Finding Old Florida: This family-favorite destination still has old-time attractions like Gulf World Marine Park (15412 Front Beach Rd., 850/234-5271, www.gulfworldmarinepark.com), where you can swim with dolphins; see shows featuring sea lions; or catch turtle, stingray, and shark feedings. Also, a themed miniature golf course and a supersize maze await you at Coconut Creek Family Fun Park (9807 Front Beach Rd., 850/234-2625, coconutcreekfun.com).

Russell-Fields Pier (16201 Front Beach Rd., 850/233-5080, www.pcbgov.com), the Gulf Coast’s longest, extends 1,500 feet over the water. A daily pass costs just $3; a fishing license, $6. While most folks arrive with their own coolers, chairs, umbrellas, rods, and reels, an on-site bait-and-tackle shop rents gear for casual anglers. Catch a mackerel, pompano, or flounder, and you’ve got dinner.

PCB took a major step forward when an old-fashioned amusement park was transformed into Pier Park (600 Pier Park Dr., 850/236-9974, www.simon.com/mall/pier-park), a 900,000-square foot mall with 124 stores, a Grand IMAX Theater, and plenty of nightlife (including Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville).

St. Andrews State Park (4607 State Park La., 850/233-5140, www.floridastateparks.org) protects 1,260 coastal acres that are home to sea turtles and numerous species of birds. In addition to fishing from Tiller Pier, the Grand Lagoon, or the jetties, there’s swimming, boating, snorkeling, scuba diving, bicycling, birding, and camping.

About 50 miles southeast of PCB, U.S. 98 leads to the picturesque waterfront community of Port St. Joe. From here, either stay on 98 for a direct shot to Apalachicola, or really immerse yourself in Old Florida by dropping south onto Highway 30A. This two-lane byway leads to Apalachicola along the shoreline, passing rustic fishing camps, general stores, and sabal palms that frame lovely views of St. Joe Bay and St. Vincent Sound.

Eat & StayCapt. Anderson’s Restaurant & Waterfront Market. There’s a comforting feel in this restaurant, a fixture in PCB since 1967. Through its wide windows, watch boats arrive with fresh-caught seafood for the evening meal: grouper, amberjack, yellowfin tuna, jumbo shrimp, and Florida lobster. 5551 N. Lagoon Dr, (850) 234–2225, www.captainandersons.com.

Legacy by the Sea. Family-size rooms have a balcony overlooking the beach and Gulf; suites also have a fully equipped kitchen, multiple TVs, and a separate living room with a sleeper sofa. Add a free continental breakfast, an airport shuttle, and on-site water-sports concessions, and you’ve got a great Gulf getaway. 15325 Front Beach Rd., (850) 249-8601, bythesearesorts.com.

Eat & StayThe Red Bar & Piccolo’s Restaurant. Late each afternoon, a line forms outside Grayton Beach’s de facto social center. Inside this bar/restaurant/music venue, a mix of tacky and swank memorabilia creates a fun backdrop for dinners featuring blackened grouper, shrimp, crawfish, or crab cakes. 70 Hotz Ave., (850) 231-1008, theredbar.com.

State Park Cabins. Although Grayton Beach State Park rangers refer to the lodgings here as “cabins,” they’re actually spacious duplexes with two bedrooms, a full kitchen, living room, sun porch, and gas fireplace. What’s more, they’re a short walk from the beach, and the rate is only about $130 a night. (800) 326-3521, www.reserveamerica.com.

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White-sand beach at T.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph Peninsula State Park.

GETAWAYS - CONNECTING THE DOCKS ALONG THE GULF COAST

Natural BlissT.H. Stone Memorial St. Joseph Peninsula State Park

On Cape San Blas, a peninsula separated from the mainland by St. Joseph Bay, this park will slow your pace to the tranquil tempo of nature. Nearly 10 miles of white-sand beaches are enhanced by an equal

measure of emerald water. Trails slice through a preserve filled with deer and other wildlife, including numerous resident and migrating birds. Reserved for hikers, the fragile environment of windswept coastal scrub and sand dunes can be yours for the day—and the night. Primitive camping along the beach lets you experience the sound of splashing waves and the sight of millions of stars. Few places are more blissful. 8899 Cape San Blas Rd., Port St. Joe, (850) 227-1327, www.floridastateparks.org.

Apalachicola69 miles east of Panama City Beach.

Tidal forces in Apalachicola Bay create perfect conditions for oyster beds. Across the John Gorrie Memorial Bridge (U.S. 98), oystermen aboard a small armada of watercraft use long, rake-like “tongs” to reach through the shallow waters and retrieve these bivalve mollusks. It’s hard, hot work, but you can taste the fruit of their labor at restaurants all along the Gulf and beyond. Indeed, this area supplies 90 percent of Florida’s oysters and 10 percent of the nation’s.

Over the past few decades, Apalachicola has also become an artsy community. Wander around its historic district—tree-lined streets, rows of cotton warehouses, and a working waterfront. Galleries feature works by local, regional, and even national artists; B&Bs put you at ease; and you’ll find a modest but intriguing array of restaurants and “shopportunities.”

Finding Old Florida: The roughly 20 million people who live in Florida depend on air-conditioning—a luxury invented right here in Apalachicola. In the 1840s, local physician/scientist/inventor John Gorrie devised an ice-making machine that would cool the rooms of yellow fever victims. Receiving the first U.S. Patent for mechanical refrigeration (1851), he became an air-conditioning pioneer. John Gorrie Museum State Park (46 6th St., 850/653-9347, www.floridastateparks.org) is a delightful celebration of his life and work.

At Eastpoint, just over the Gorrie bridge, the Bryant Grady Patton Bridge leaps south across the bay and lands on St. George Island (850/927-7744, www.seestgeorgeisland.com), where a placid village seems frozen in the 1960s. The handful of rental homes, restaurants, and markets cater to folks who find that traveling a bit farther off the path puts them that much closer to the Gulf.

Eat & StayApalachicola Seafood Grill. With its heart-of-town location, this family-style seafood restaurant—in business since 1908—is a great spot for people watching. It serves unpretentious, affordable food—everything from “the world’s largest” fried fish sandwich, crab cakes, and fried shrimp to hamburgers, collard greens, white beans, and cornbread. Save room for pie. 100 Market St., (850) 653-9510.

Boss Oyster. This ramshackle waterfront restaurant celebrates oysters better than any other, preparing the local delicacies in a multitude of ways within hours of being plucked from the bay. Don’t care for oysters? Try jumbo gulf shrimp, bay scallops, grouper, or blue crabs. 125 Water St., (850) 653-9364, bossoyster.com.

The Gibson Inn. Wraparound porches (complete with rocking chairs) and a rooftop widow’s walk nod to the history of this inn at the foot of Gorrie bridge. Built in 1907 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the inn offers large, comfortable rooms and an intimate pub connected to the elegant Gormley’s restaurant. 51 Ave. C, (850) 653–2191, www.gibsoninn.com.

St. George Island lighthouse.


Pick an Island . . . Any IslandU.S. Virgin Island ExperiencesBy Jane Zarem

President Woodrow Wilson scored a big one when he signed off on the purchase of St. Thomas, St. John, and St. Croix. In 1917, Denmark sold the three islands that became the U.S. Virgin Islands (USVI), an unincorporated U.S. territory that now includes Water Island, Hassel Island, and several cays as well.

All of the islands have glistening white-sand beaches and coral reefs that keep the sea crystal clear, but each also has its own ecology, history, and overall vibe that allow for singular getaways. Whichever island experience you choose, you won’t need a passport if you’re a U.S. citizen or permanent resident.Contact: USVI Dept. of Tourism, 800/372-8784, www.visitusvi.com.

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St. ThomasFor Some Pampering

Christopher Columbus “discovered” St. Thomas—which, of course, was inhabited by native tribes for centuries—on his second voyage (1493) but didn’t tarry. His Spanish patrons were equally uninterested. Pirates, on the other hand, were very interested, making the island their refuge between attacks on passing ships. Denmark found St. Thomas suitable for sugar plantations, but becoming a free port in 1815 created the island’s real prosperity.

Today, St. Thomas is the USVI’s government, financial, and population center. This doesn’t, however, diminish the sheer beauty of its beaches. And the sandy stretches here are complemented by restaurants that serve delectable cuisine and resorts that serve up elegance.

The busy streets and lanes of Charlotte Amalie, the USVI capital, are chock-a-block with jewelry shops, designer boutiques, liquor merchants, and souvenir stalls. (U.S. citizens enjoy a duty-free shopping quota of $1,600, twice that of other Caribbean islands.) Cyril E. King Airport (STT), on the south coast 3 miles west of downtown Charlotte Amalie, serves nonstop flights from most major cities. Ferries to St. John depart from Charlotte Amalie and from Red Hook, on the island’s eastern tip.

Aerial view of the west end of St. Thomas, USVI.



GETAWAYS - U.S. VIRGIN ISLAND EXPERIENCES

Caribbean Buzz Helicopter Tours (above right). Waterfront dining at Fat Turtle at The Shops at Yacht Haven Grande, St. Thomas. (below right).

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Play, Eat & StayCoral World Ocean Park. View a coral reef without getting wet, pet a shark, feed stingrays, swim with sea lions, take a walk on the ocean floor . . . it’s fun for the whole family. 6450 Coki Point, (340) 775-1555, coralworldvi.com.

Banana Tree Grille. Toast the sunset, and then repair to the elegant dining room for Chef David Benjamin’s classic steakhouse or innovative “farm and sea” cuisine. Bluebeards Castle, (340) 776-4050, bananatreegrille.com.

Old Stone Farmhouse. Soft candlelight perfectly balances the massive stone walls and brick archways at this romantic dinner spot in a 200-year-old homestead. And the chef’s cutting-edge cuisine is truly spectacular. Fresh island seafood is always on the menu. Mahogany Run Golf Course, 11th hole, (340) 777-6277, oldstonefarmhouse.com.

The Ritz Carlton, St. Thomas. The architecture is palatial, and you’re treated like royalty. Balconies on the 180 sophisticated guestrooms overlook beautiful gardens, an infinity-edge pool, and the sea. Soothing amenities include candlelit dining on the beach, a calming massage at the spa’s seaside gazebo, and sailing on the resort’s 53-foot catamaran, Lady Lynsey. 6900 Great Bay, (340) 775-3333, www.ritzcarlton.com.

Eco-cottage at Virgin Islands Campground (below).

Pampering Experiences: On the north shore directly opposite Charlotte Amalie, Magens Bay Beach is one of the world’s prettiest. For a truly idyllic day, head to the western end, which has fewer people and the best snorkeling. Marvel at the glistening white sand, pristine turquoise sea, and bright green peaks surrounding the bay. High above, Drake’s Seat (Hull Bay Rd.) offers fantastic island views. It’s easy to see why British privateer Sir Francis Drake used Magens Bay as an anchorage and this vantage point to spot his prey.

Yearn to fly in a “whirlybird”? Look into the excursions offered by Caribbean Buzz Helicopter Tours (8202 Lindbergh Bay, 340/775-7335, caribbean-buzz.com). On a 30-minute Helo Sunshine Tour, view St. Thomas, St. John, and nearby British Virgins from 1,000 feet. There’s also a monthly Full Moon Tour—or customize your own amazing adventure.

At The Shops at Yacht Haven Grande (Yacht Haven Grande Marina, Long Bay Rd., 340/774-9500), a stone’s throw from Charlotte Amalie’s cruise ship dock, you can browse or buy luxury items at high-end stores; find beach, island, children’s, and pet fashion at local shops; indulge at Prana Spa; and grab a bite to eat.

Peaceful Escape A Day (or More) on Water Island

Considered the “fourth Virgin” and the newest, having joined the USVI in 1996, Water Island is comparatively small (491.5 acres) and serene yet just seven minutes by ferry from Crown Bay on St. Thomas. You won’t find a town, cars, or many people (there are fewer than 200 residents). You will find beautiful sandy beaches and a beach bar or two. So come for a day of

lazing on the sand, walking the shoreline, hiking, or biking.

Want to stay four nights or more? Virgin Islands Campground (877/502-7225, www.virginislandscampground.com) has screened, wood-framed eco-cottages—each with a porch and ocean view—furnished with comfortable beds, linens, and a cooler. Guests share kitchen and bath facilities, a solar-heated hot tub, and a communications room with Wi-Fi and satellite TV.

On Monday evenings, Heidi’s Honeymoon Grill (Honeymoon Beach, 340/690-0325)—which has food-cart dining by day—shows movies on a screen stretched between two palm trees. Steak or crab entrees, fish tacos, burgers, and steak sandwiches are all delicious.



St. JohnFor Some Adventure

St. John is gloriously verdant and mountainous—so it’s somewhat surprising that, by the end of the 18th century, the Danes worked more than 100 cotton and sugar plantations here. The abolition of slavery led to the decline of those plantations. Many Europeans left, and former slaves became farmers or fishermen.

By the 1930s, U.S. travelers, including philanthropist Laurence Rockefeller, became enamored by St. John. Rockefeller purchased most of it in the 1950s, and then turned over the bulk of that land to the federal government for a national park. Today, most of the island is densely forested mountainside, laced with trails and a few roads.

St. John is accessible by ferry, water taxi, or private boat. It’s a 20-minute trip from St. Thomas (Charlotte Amalie or Red Hook) to the southwestern shore at the main town of Cruz Bay, which has a colorful waterfront and narrow streets lined with shops and restaurants. Cell phone service is available in Cruz Bay and in Coral Bay, on the southeastern side. Elsewhere, you might get a signal from the nearby British Virgin Islands—billed at international rates.

Adventure Experiences: Virgin Islands National Park (340/776-6201, x238, www.nps.gov/viis) covers two-thirds of the island (7,259 acres, of which 5,650 acres are underwater). Among the fabulous beaches are Cinnamon Bay, Hawksnest Bay, Honeymoon Beach, and Trunk Bay, which has an underwater snorkel trail with plaques that identify the corals and fish. Hiking trails pass ancient petroglyphs, sugar-mill ruins, and mesmerizing seascapes. Learn about the park’s outdoor activities and eco-adventures at the Visitors Center, two blocks from the Cruz Bay ferry dock.

Play, Eat & StayMongoose Junction. This maze of stone buildings near Cruz Bay houses upscale boutiques, galleries, cafés, bistros, and entertainment experiences. N. Shore Rd., www.mongoosejunctionstjohn.com.

Sam & Jack’s Deli. Specializing in affordable “Grab & Go” comfort food and matching dinner wines, everything here is made in-house—even the potato chips. The Marketplace, 3rd Fl., Cruz Bay, (340) 714-3354, www.samandjacksdeli.com.

Miss Lucy’s. Fresh fish, fried plantains, conch fritters, sweet-potato hash . . . enjoy local food beside the sea, opt for a cheeseburger in paradise, or come for the Sunday jazz brunch. Ignore the goats and chickens meandering around outside! Rte. 107, Friis Bay (south of Coral Bay), (340) 693-5244.

Concordia Eco-Resort. “Sustainable-chic” best describes this resort with solar-heated showers, solar-powered lighting and fans, and composting toilets. Choose either a rustic wood-frame eco-tent (soft walls and zip windows) or a more comfortable eco-studio (solid walls and floors); some units have kitchenettes. Enjoy the pool, morning yoga class (small fee), and casual outdoor restaurant. Nearby Salt Pond Bay Beach has great snorkeling. (800) 392-9004, www.concordiaeco-resort.com.

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Cinnamon Bay beach in the Virgin Islands National Park (above). Underwater coral reef (left).

Kayaks on the beach in Cruz Bay.


Play, Eat & StayCruzan Rum Distillery. Discover the rum crafted here by the Nelthropp family for two centuries. Take a tour, taste a few, and buy a bottle (or more). U.S. citizens/permanent residents can bring home 5 liters duty-free. 3A Estate Diamond, Frederiksted, (340) 692-2280, www.cruzanrum.com.

Buck Island Reef National Monument. Off St. Croix’s northeastern coast, Buck Island has hiking trails, picnic sites, birds and lizards to watch, and an underwater snorkeling trail to explore. Licensed boat trips depart from Christiansted Wharf and Green Cay Marina. (340) 773-1460, www.nps.gov/buis.

RumRunners. It’s the place on the waterfront to enjoy an alfresco meal, a frosty drink, and some people watching—whether for breakfast, lunch, dinner, or Sunday brunch. The extensive menu includes light fare (burgers, salads, sandwiches) and full meals, with a fresh fish highlight. Caravelle Hotel, 44A Queen Cross St., Christiansted, (340) 773-6585, www.rumrunnersstcroix.com.

St. CroixFor Some Island Culture

The largest and most southern “Virgin” has a long agricultural and maritime history. Columbus called it “Santa Cruz” in the name of Spain. Dutch and English planters—and a few French Huguenots—battled over possession of St. Croix well into the 17th century. The French, who prevailed, eventually sold the island to the Danes. Sugar, rum, and slave labor brought great wealth to St. Croix until emancipation in 1848.

Today, visitors are drawn by the island’s overall tranquility, laid-back atmosphere, and Euro-Caribbean diversity. A self-guided Heritage Trail traces the island’s rich history, culture, and nature and links the two main towns: Christiansted on the north-central coast and Frederiksted on the western coast. Reach St. Croix by air from the mainland United States, seaplane from St. Thomas, or private boat. Henry E. Rohlsen Airport (STX) is on the southern coast, a 20-minute drive from either Christiansted or Frederiksted.

Cultural Experiences: Christiansted, the historic capital of the Danish West Indies (1755–1871), is a square mile of architectural richness, cobblestone walkways, and busy waterfront. Explore the 7-acre Christiansted National Historic Site (2100 Church St., 340/773-1460, www.nps.gov/chri), especially Fort Christiansvaern, the tiny Apothecary Hall Museum, the Steeple Building, and the Scale House.

On the island’s western end, Frederiksted is the smaller of St. Croix’s two towns but is now the island’s main port. Victorian-style, gingerbread-bedecked buildings line the narrow streets and house boutiques. Historic Fort Frederik (Lagoon and King Sts., 340/772-2021) has protected the waterfront since the 1750s.

Some 200 plantations once covered St. Croix, and sugar-mill ruins still dot the landscape at the Estate Whim Museum (Centerline Rd., Frederiksted, 340/772-0598, www.stcroixlandmarks.com). You can tour the great house and the grounds, where you’ll also find a restored windmill.

Why Denmark?Several countries—Holland, France, England, Spain, Malta—sought to establish colonies on “the Virgins,” but Denmark was the most successful. The attraction: sugar.

The Danish West India Company settled St. Thomas in 1672 with 113 inhabitants, mainly convicts who worked the plantations. Shortly afterward, the company signed a treaty with the Dutch, which established a slave-trading post on the island. Early governors also welcomed pirates, thinking their business would benefit the local merchants. Convicts, slaves, pirates . . . it couldn’t have been a pleasant atmosphere!

The Danes expanded their sugar interests to nearby St. John in the 1680s, and, in 1733, the Danish West India Company purchased St. Croix from France. Sugar continued to bring prosperity to the three islands—albeit on the backs of slaves—until a rebellion on St. Croix in 1848 brought emancipation, an end to the sugar industry, and a sharp decrease in the Danish-born population.

In 1917, after 50 years of on-and-off negotiating, Denmark sold the islands to the United States—which was more interested in military strategy than in beaches, sugar, or rum. The price: $25 million in gold.

Restored windmill at the Estate Whim Museum, St. Croix.

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Blue Moon. Enjoy delectable grilled steak, the freshest seafood, Cajun specialties, and pasta verde at this casual waterfront bistro. Arrive early for an outside table with a sunset view; stick around for Friday night jazz. 7 Strand St., Frederiksted, (340) 772-2222.

The Buccaneer. Family owned and operated for 70 years, this former tobacco/indigo/sugar/cotton plantation—3 miles east of Christiansted—has three beaches, a pool, an 18-hole golf course, 8 tennis courts, a spa and fitness center, three restaurants, and an authentic sugar mill. The 138 spacious guestrooms have sitting areas and enormous private terraces. 5007 Estate Shoys, (800) 255-3881, www.thebuccaneer.com.

The Buccaneer beach and pool (above left and right).

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#8So, You Want to Go to Harvard . . .Exploring the Campus That Defines CambridgeBy Jane Zarem

Just across the Charles River from Boston, the venerable city of Cambridge has a personality and history all its own. It was in Cambridge where freedom of speech was declared in 1635; freedom of religion, in 1740. Harvard Square—the heart, soul, and nerve center of Cambridge—is where it all began back in the early 17th century and where it’s still happening as we negotiate the 21st.The Contact List: Cambridge Office of Tourism, (617) 441-2884, www.cambridgeusa.org. Harvard Square Business Association, (617) 491-3434, www.harvardsquare.com.

Harvard SquareReally a triangle at the intersection of Brattle Street and Massachusetts Avenue—the main thoroughfare through Cambridge, locally known simply as “Mass. Ave.”—Harvard Square is dominated by a newsstand that sells publications from all over the world. Designated a National Historic Landmark, Out-of-Town News shares a center island with the subway (“T”) entrance and an information kiosk where you can also join a walking tour. Around Harvard Square and its side streets are restaurants, shops, hotels, historic sites, theaters, nightspots, bookstores, and, of course, Harvard University.

Exploring the Square: A bronze plate at the southwest corner of Cambridge Common (Mass. Ave./Garden St./Waterhouse St.) marks where George Washington took command of the First Continental Army on July 3, 1775. Nearby, Christ Church (0 Garden St.) was built in 1760 for the city’s first non-Puritan congregation. Headstones in the adjacent Old Burying Ground date from the 17th century; among the graves are a dozen minutemen, two black patriot soldiers, and several Harvard presidents (including three of the first four).

Harvard Square (above). Statue of Three Lies in front of University Hall, Harvard campus (opposite).


Broaden Your Mind . . . and SpiritCambridge Meditation Centers

Transcendentalism, the practice of “non-doing” in order to transcend into pure awareness, became a movement after Harvard grad Ralph Waldo Emerson and others founded the Transcendental Club in Cambridge in 1836.

Zen, on the other hand, involves concentrated focus on an object or a sensation, such as breathing or chanting, to reach a similar state of enlightened awareness. If you’re curious, Cambridge has several places to experience various meditation techniques. All you need is an open mind.

The Cambridge Insight Meditation Center (331 Broadway, 617/441-9038, cambridgeinsight.org) emphasizes developing mindfulness in daily life. It offers Vipassana (insight) meditation instruction, practice, and discussion in Tuesday evening drop-in sessions and daylong beginner workshops. Inner Space Meditation Center & Gallery (1110 Mass. Ave., 617/547-1110, www.innerspaceharvardsq.org) presents talks, conversations, guided meditations, and instruction in Raja yoga meditation—all free.Russell House Tavern (top left). The

Harvard campus yard (top). Longfellow House interior (above). Harvard Book Store (opposite right).

GETAWAYS - EXPLORING THE CAMPUS THAT DEFINES CAMBRIDGE

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The Coop. Shop for Harvard logo apparel, books, and more at one of America’s largest campus stores. 1400 Mass. Ave., (617) 499-2000, store.thecoop.com.

The Harvard Shop. This student-run store two blocks from The Coop sells logo apparel, gifts, and accessories. It’s open 24/7 year round to accommodate anyone pulling an all-nighter! 52 JFK St., (617) 864-3000, www.theharvardshop.com.

Harvard Book Store. Four blocks east of Harvard Square, this landmark has served the academic community with new and used books since 1932. 1256 Mass. Ave., (617) 661-1515, www.harvard.com.

Club Passim. In the 1960s, Club 47 attracted newbie folk musicians (Joan Baez, Bob Dylan, Joni Mitchell). Today, Club Passim—the name changed in 1969—presents more than 400 shows per year. The kitchen serves burgers, salads, and desserts to ticketed patrons. 47 Palmer St., (617) 492-7679, www.passim.org.

Ryles Jazz Club. This spot has live jazz, blues, R&B, and Latin performances—and a second-floor dance hall; add drinks and a meal, or come for the Sunday Jazz Brunch. 212 Hampshire St., (617) 876-9330, www.ryles.com.

Harvest. Enjoy contemporary, seasonal New England cuisine sourced from regional purveyors: Vermont pork, Maine berries, coastal seafood, artisanal cheeses . . . you get the idea. 44 Brattle St., (617) 868-2255, harvestcambridge.com.

Russell House Tavern. The New American menu features pan-seared swordfish, steak frites, confit duck legs, small plates, signature burgers, gourmet pizzas, and craft beers. 14 JFK St., (617) 500-3055, russellhousecambridge.com.

Running west from Harvard Square, Brattle Street was dubbed Tory Row during the Revolution because Loyalist mansions lined both sides of it. Most remain and are still magnificent. Dexter Pratt, the inspiration for the 1840 Henry Wadsworth Longfellow poem, The Village Blacksmith, plied his trade “under the spreading chestnut tree” in front of 54 Brattle, now known as the Dexter Pratt House. The tree is gone, but a bit of its wood was fashioned into a chair that schoolchildren presented to Longfellow on his 75th birthday.

Pratt’s house is now owned by the Cambridge Center for Adult Education; the chair is in the poet’s study in Longfellow House (105 Brattle St., 617/876-4491, www.nps.gov/long), a National Historic Site. The poet lived most of his adult life in this colonial Tory Row mansion, initially boarding here as a young Harvard professor of modern languages. The house also served as Washington’s headquarters during the Siege of Boston (1775–76). Tours give you a glimpse into the lives of an upper-class Victorian family and the environment that spawned much of Longfellow’s work.

Harvard UniversityEstablished in 1636 as New College by the “Great and General Court of the Governor and Company of the Massachusetts Bay in New England,” Colonial America’s first college had one building, nine students in the first graduating class (1642), and a cow pasture (the nucleus of today’s Harvard Yard). In 1639, the institution was renamed for John Harvard, who endowed it with a bundle of money and his 400-book library.

Exploring the Campus: The sprawling, venerable university has an intense intellectual and cultural energy. To learn about its unique history, take a free Harvard Student-Led Walking Tour (Harvard Information Center, Smith Campus Center, 30 Dunster St., 617/495-1573, www.harvard.edu/on-campus/visit-harvard). Or stroll around solo, soaking up an atmosphere that’s at once historical, cerebral, and exhilarating.

Engraved “John Harvard, Founder, 1638,” the so-called Statue of Three Lies in front of Harvard Yard’s Charles Bullfinch–designed University Hall earned its nickname because: (1) it’s actually the likeness of a student model and not of Harvard; (2) the original college was founded in 1636; so (3) John Harvard wasn’t actually the founder. Ironically, Harvard’s motto, “Veritas,” is Latin for “truth.”

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MIT's Frank Gehry–designed Stata Center (above). Kismet, an interactive robotic head, at the MIT Museum (right).

GETAWAYS - EXPLORING THE CAMPUS THAT DEFINES CAMBRIDGE

The university’s European masterpieces, contemporary American art, Buddhist sculpture, East Asian art, Islamic art, Chinese jade, and lots more require multiple museums—namely, the Fogg, Busch-Reisinger, and Arthur M. Sackler. The trio of Harvard Art Museums (32 Quincy St., 617/495-9400, www.harvardartmuseums.org) is in one state-of-the-art facility facing the east side of Harvard Yard.

The Harvard Museums of Science & Culture (hmsc.harvard.edu) collections, on the other hand, are displayed in four separate places—and the university’s course roster dictates some exhibits. The Harvard Museum of Natural History (26 Oxford St., 617/495-3045, hmnh.harvard.edu) is famous for its handcrafted glass models of flowers and marine invertebrates, and the Peabody Museum of Archaeology and Ethnology (11 Divinity Ave., 617/496-1027, www.peabody.harvard.edu) houses one of the world’s most comprehensive collections of cultural history. The Collection of Historical Scientific Instruments (Science Center, Room 371, 1 Oxford St., 617/495-2779, chsi.harvard.edu) is as fascinating as its name implies, and the Harvard Semitic Museum (6 Divinity Ave., 617/495-4631, semiticmuseum.fas.harvard.edu) displays artifacts from museum-sponsored Near East excavations.

Other Bits & BitesSavenor’s Market. Treat yourself to a mouth-watering sandwich at Julia Child’s favorite purveyor of fine and exotic meats and produce. Note the “Bon Appétit! JC” that the late great chef, cookbook author, TV personality, and Cantabridgian scribbled in the cement of the sidewalk out front. 92 Kirkland St., (617) 576-6328, www.savenorsmarket.com.

Mr. Bartley’s Gourmet Burgers. Serving perfectly cooked patties, fresh-cut onion rings and fries, frappes (aka shakes), and lime rickeys for 50+ years, this is, itself, a Harvard Square institution. Cash only, please. 1246 Mass. Ave., (617) 354-6559, www.mrbartley.com.

That Other Elite Cambridge Institution

Massachusetts Institute of Technology

From Harvard Square, it’s a healthy walk (or two “T” stops) southeast along Massachusetts Avenue to Kendall Square, site of 150+ biotech and IT firms and the MIT campus. Where Harvard is the academic and cultural epitome of the Ivy League, MIT is a world-class research institution focused mainly on engineering, technology, and design.

Uniquely fascinating science and technology exhibits—holography, robotics, artificial intelligence, maritime history, kinetic art, and much more—at the MIT Museum (265 Mass. Ave., Bldg. N51, 617/253-5927, web.mit.edu/museum) express the innovation for which MIT is renowned and usually include student projects. Meanwhile, the institution’s List Visual Arts Center (20 Ames St., Bldg. E15, Atrium Level, 617/253-4680, listart.mit.edu) concentrates on contemporary art and presents dynamic, provocative, artist-centric exhibitions and performances.

Architecturally fascinating buildings provide another visual expression of MIT’s bleeding-edge approach. On Vassar Street, for example, the Simmons Hall dorm appears to be built of Legos, while the avant-garde, Frank Gehry–designed Stata Center is, perhaps, the weirdest building you’ve ever seen. Then, on Massachusetts Avenue, the cylindrical MIT Chapel, designed by Finnish architect Eero Saarinen, is encircled by a moat. Across the street, the Great Dome on the MacLaurin Building is the postcard view of MIT.

Where to StayThe Charles Hotel. The 295 sleek guest rooms in this contemporary hotel offer views of Harvard Square, the Charles River, or the hotel courtyard. High-tech amenities include Bose Wave radios, in-mirror bathroom TVs, and free Wi-Fi. Dine at Henrietta’s Table or Rialto; live it up at 1940s-style Noir or the Regattabar Jazz Club. 1 Bennett St., (617) 864-1200, www.charleshotel.com.

Irving House B&B. This 1890s homestead on a residential street two blocks from the Harvard campus provides all the comforts of home plus proximity to Harvard Square. Rooms are cozy; some share a bath. Love those breakfast popovers! 24 Irving St., (617) 547-4600, www.irvinghouse.com.

Hotel Veritas. It might be a modern boutique hotel, but it fits right in with the stately residences of a historic neighborhood a few blocks east of Harvard Square. The 31 fairly small rooms feature Art Deco furniture and the usual complimentary electronics. 1 Remington St., (617) 520-5000, www.thehotelveritas.com.

Inside the Hotel Veritas (left). Harvard Art Museums interior (bottom left).


Right now, the days are short, the weather is tempermental, and there’s a tendency to hole up indoors. Soon enough, though (like, say, Sunday, March 12), we’ll set the clocks ahead, and the changing light that signifies the advent of spring will have us thinking about getting out on the road. And what road trip would be complete without a classic sunrise or sunset shot? Here are five great places to capture the moment.

The First Sunrise, Down East, ME To catch the first sunrise in the continental United States, it is, quite literally, about “location, location, location.” If you’re dead set on a dawn replete with rocky bluffs and bold Atlantic surf, then, between early October and early March, make the 3.5-mile drive (or challenging 7.5-mile hike) up 1,530-foot Cadillac Mountain near Bar Harbor in Acadia National Park. Just before the equinoxes, head 100 miles northeast to West Quoddy Head State Park near Lubec. To catch the sun’s first rays from late March to mid September, however, you’ll have to travel well inland and north to 1,748-foot Mars Hill.

Perdido Key, off Pensacola, FLThe fine-grained quartz sand along the shores of this Gulf Coast barrier island is powdery and oh-so white. The water is a true blue, generally complemented by an equally blue sky thanks to an average of 340 sunny days a year. What’s more, 60 percent of the key is state or federal park land, so all this beach, sea, and sky are virtually uninterrupted. Imagine waves lapping gently, light breezes rustling sea oats in the dunes behind you. Breathe in the warm and briny air. Picture the light and sky changing hues as the sun rises—or sets. Perfection.

Haleakala National Park, HIHaleakala, the name of Maui’s active 10,023-foot volcano, translates to “house of the sun.” Although many people travel up to the crater, considered sacred by locals, for sunrise and a return trip by bike, timing your visit for sunset has its advantages: thinner crowds and better views. At first light, the crater is basically in shadow, and, later in the morning, clouds tend to roll in. Afternoons can be clearer,

JUST FOR FUN

plus the sun’s rays illuminate the dark volcanic landscape, making it downright stunning, particularly at sunset. Stay to watch the moon rise, followed by some spectacular stargazing.

Carmel, CAIts full name is Carmel-by-the-Sea, and its main performing-arts venue is the Sunset Center. So it’s no surprise that sunset on its sugary-sand Carmel River State Beach—or the 2-mile round-trip trail between it and Monastery Beach—is spectacular. It’s also the perfect ending to a day of shopping, gallery hopping, indulging in a spa treatment or a wine-tasting tour, and sampling California’s farm-fresh contemporary cuisine. You might even spot a celebrity or two. Don’t worry if you get caught up and miss twilight on the beach. The 90-mile stretch of the Pacific Coast Highway through Big Sur country runs south from here to San Simeon. Along it are many other amazing beaches, coves, and bluffs from which to snap the sun setting over the Pacific.

The Last Sunset, Cape Alava, WATo see the last sunset in the Lower 48, you have to be a bit intrepid. It requires a 3-plus-mile one-way hike through misty Pacific maritime forest to the beach at Cape Alava in Olympic National Park. But no worries: the trail is mostly covered by cedar-planked boardwalks, which means an easy walk—important on the flashlight-illuminated return trip. Or you can get a permit to pitch a tent at one of the nearby sites and stay for the sunrise, perhaps followed by a 3-mile beach hike to the 3-mile Sand Point Trail, completing the 9-plus-mile Ozette Loop.

Sunrise to Sunset

Sunrise from Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, ME (above).Sunset at Shi Shi Beach in Olympic National Park (opposite).

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By Laura M. Kidder

ISBN-13: 978-0-528-01641-7

780528 0164179

09990EAN

$9.99ISBN 0-528-01641-5

70609 016410 2

UPC

Date post:	26-May-2020
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