Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University September 25, 2012 Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 1 A Cultural Geographical Study on Non- salty Fermented Soybeans in Laos, Myanmar and Thailand Satoshi YOKOYAMA Dept. of Geography, School of Environmental Studies, Nagoya University, Japan Sikkim University Lecture 1 This research is entirely funded by Japan Society for the Promotion of Science, Grants-in-Aid for Scientific Research, Challenging Exploratory Research. The Origin of Non-salty Fermented Soybeans Foods: Unitary Origin Concept and Plurality Origin Concept 2 Unitary Origin Concept : Natto Triangle by Nakao Nakao (1972: 123) “Existence of Tempe, Natto and Kinema is not by a strange coincidence. If there is the origin of non-salty fermented soybean foods, it must be around Yunnan, Southeastern China.” ! Tempe is fermented by not Bacilius spp. but Rhizopus spp. So it must be separate these. 3 Unitary Origin Concept : The Area in the Downstream of the Yangzi River by Yoshida Yoshida (2001) Fermented soybean foods must be accidentally acquired by failing to make Tousi, moldy soybean foods. Fermented soybean foods has spread much wider than moldy soybean foods because it can make much more easier. The origin of fermented soybean might be around the downstream of the Yangzi River, because the origin of soybean thought to be around here. ! Fermented soybean foods has spread over Himalaya, Korea and Japan from the downstream of the Yangzi River. 4 Natto Tousi Origin of Natto Plurality Origin Concept by Ishige The first fermented soybean foods were made by accident. Boiled soybeans that were stored probably with certain plant, and fermented. Ancient People boiled soybean and temporary stored, and then it was naturally fermented. There is a good possibility that it was independently produced in various regions. He supposed 3 core regions: 1. Natto and Chungkokjang group: (Japan and Korea, rice straw, culture based on rice cultivation) 2. Toua-nao group (Northern Thailand and Shan state in Myanmar, disk- shaped dry type) 3. Pebouk and Kinema group(pea- shaped sticky texture) From a macroscopic standpoint, Group 2 and Group 3 are the same. Ishige (1990: 352) 5 Kinema Pebouk Tousi Toua-nao Tempe Natto,Chung -kokjang Evergreen Broad-leaved Forest Zone and Fermented Soybean Foods 6 The evergreen broad- leaved forest zone is distributed from the Himalayas at the western extreme to Japan at the eastern extreme. Spatial distribution of fermented soybean foods are perfectly overlapped. There exist common fundamental culture based on climate and vegetation. Evergreen broad-leaved forest Kinema Pebouk Toua-nao Tousi Deciduous broad-leaved forest Coniferous boreal forest Tropical/Subtropical forest Savanna/Steppe Desert Chungkokjang Natto
Transcript
Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 1
A Cultural Geographical Study on Non-salty Fermented Soybeans in Laos,
Myanmar and Thailand
Satoshi YOKOYAMA Dept. of Geography, School of Environmental Studies,
Nagoya University, Japan
Sikkim University Lecture 1
This research is entirely funded by Japan Society for the Promotion of Science, Grants-in-Aid for Scientific Research, Challenging Exploratory Research.
The Origin of Non-salty Fermented Soybeans Foods: Unitary Origin Concept
and Plurality Origin Concept
2
Unitary Origin Concept : Natto Triangle by Nakao
Nakao (1972: 123)
“Existence of Tempe, Natto and Kinema is not by a strange coincidence. If there is the origin of non-salty fermented soybean foods, it must be around Yunnan, Southeastern China.” !! Tempe is fermented
by not Bacilius spp. but Rhizopus spp. So it must be separate these.
3 Unitary Origin Concept : The Area in the Downstream of the Yangzi River by Yoshida
Yoshida (2001)
Fermented soybean foods must be accidentally acquired by failing to make Tousi, moldy soybean foods. Fermented soybean foods has spread much wider than moldy soybean foods because it can make much more easier. The origin of fermented soybean might be around the downstream of the Yangzi River, because the origin of soybean thought to be around here.
!! Fermented soybean foods has spread over Himalaya, Korea and Japan from the downstream of the Yangzi River.
4
Natto
Tousi
Origin of Natto
Plurality Origin Concept by Ishige The first fermented soybean foods were made by accident. Boiled soybeans that were stored probably with certain plant, and fermented. Ancient People boiled soybean and temporary stored, and then it was naturally fermented. There is a good possibility that it was independently produced in various regions. He supposed 3 core regions: 1.! Natto and Chungkokjang group:
(Japan and Korea, rice straw, culture based on rice cultivation)
2.! Toua-nao group (Northern Thailand and Shan state in Myanmar, disk-shaped dry type)
3.! Pebouk and Kinema group(pea-shaped sticky texture)
From a macroscopic standpoint, Group 2 and Group 3 are the same. Ishige (1990: 352)
5
Kinema
Pebouk Tousi
Toua-nao
Tempe
Natto,Chung-kokjang
Evergreen Broad-leaved Forest Zone and Fermented Soybean Foods
6
The evergreen broad-leaved forest zone is distributed from the Himalayas at the western extreme to Japan at the eastern extreme. Spatial distribution of fermented soybean foods are perfectly overlapped. There exist common fundamental culture based on climate and vegetation.
Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 2
Research Questions !! From the cultural standpoint, past studies on fermented
soybean foods in Southeast Asia were only to record making process and use in various locations.
!! Interregional comparative studies and research based on field survey have been little progressed since 1980s. On the other hand, microbial studies are being developed and clarified the characteristics of Buchillus subtilis in various locations.
!! However, the origin of fermented soybean foods is not independently produced in various regions because Buchillus subtillis character differs according to region.
!! It is still controversial whether fermented soybean foods developed in one location or not. Now there is no discussion about it.
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Objective and Study Area 8
In this presentation, I will talk focusing on making process and plant use of non-salty fermented soybean foods in Laos, Thailand and Myanmar. And difference and similarity of non-salty fermented soybean foods among regions will be clarified.
Laos: Toua-nao
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Kinds of Toua-nao in Laos 1.! Crushed (Toua-nao mun): Salt and chill pepper are mixed
when milling pea-shaped Toua-nao. 2.! Disk-shaped (Tour-nao peang)：Molding and drying crushed
Toua-nao Toua-nao is mainly being made by ethnic Tai Lue and Tai Nuea group in Laos. Both ethnic groups have come from Southwestern China in the early 20 century.
1 2
10
Preparation and Boiling 11
Sun drying for a few days Boiling soybeans for 6-10 hours
Fermenting 12
Smell is similar with Natto or Kinema. However, this has no sticky at all. Many producers will process pea-shaped Toua-nao after this.
In General, a plastic bag are being used for fermentation. People keep it 2-3 days. They don’t put any plant materials in the plastic bag.
Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 3
Processing: Crushed Toua-nao
Putting salt and chili, and Milling pea-shaped Toua-nao using mortar.
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Completed crushed Toua-nao
Processing: Disk-shaped Toua-nao Molding, sometime just bat crushed Toua-nao lightly with hand, and sun drying
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Use and Cooking of Toua-nao in Laos !! People use Toua-nao as ingredient of soup and traditional noodle
called “Kao Sooy”. Kao Sooy can be seen only in Northern Laos. !! It is said the origin of Kao Sooy is Bokeo province, border with
Thailand.
Kao Sooy Noodle Ingredient of Kao Sooy (Pork, Toua-nao, Chili, Garlic and so on)
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Kinema-Pebouk Group
Toua-nao Group
Route by Kao Sooy noodle?
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Route by ethnic Tai Group
Toua-Nao in Laos has 2 transmitting routes.
Thailand: Toua-nao
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Kinds of Toua-nao in Thailand 1.! Pea-shaped (Toua-nao sa): People little sell with this shape. 2.! Crushed (Toua-nao mu): Salt and chill pepper are mixed
when milling pea-shaped Toua-nao. 3.! Disk-shaped (Tour-nao peang)：Batting crushd Toua-nao lightly with hand and drying it.
Toua-nao is mainly being made by ethnic Tai Yai and Kon Muang group in Northern Thailand. Tai Yai is the same ethnic group of ethnic Shan of Myanmar. Kon Muang is one of native inhabitants in northern Thailand. 1 2 3
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Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 4
Toua-Nao producing by ethnic Kon Muang and ethnic Tai Yai
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Fermenting
[Kon Muang and Tai Yai] Boiled soybeans are wrapped by teak leaves (Tectora Grandis), and keep it for 3 days. The backside of the teak leaves must be put inside the basket.
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Some commercial producers use plastic bags for fermentation as same as Laos. But Toua-nao taste using teak leaves is
Toua-nao after Fermenting
Toua-Nao producing by Kon Muang has no stick at all. They will make d isk -shaped Toua-nao a f te r fermenting.
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Toua-nao producing by Tai Yai has lowly sticky. They don’t this but will cook.
Processing: Disk-shaped Toua-nao
People apply meat grinder to make crushed Toua-nao.
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Completed cruched Toua-nao. Some producer mix ginger, chili, lemongrass, salt, and so on before grinding.
Processing: Disk-shaped Toua-nao
To make disk-shaped Toua-nao, people have started using a wooden board from 2000. Before that Ton hock leaves (Solanum erianthum D. Don) was used to bat crushed Toua-nao.
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Ton hock leaves (Solanum erianthum D. Don)
Use and Cooking of Toua-nao in Thailand
Fermented rice noodle “Kanom Chin” and Toua-nao Soup “Nam Nyao” is popular food in Northern Thailand. This might be introduced into Laos as “Kao Sooy”.
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They have variety of cooking method such as frying, grilling, putting in the soup, and so on.
Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 5
Myanmar: Pebouk
25
Shan State: A Huge Variety of Fermented Soybeans
In Shan State, Myanmar, there are a huge variety of crushed (Pebouk So) and disk-shaped (Pebouk Chauk) fermented soybeans.
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Nikolai Vavilov developed a theory on the centers of origin of cultivated plants. He stated that plants were not domesticated somewhere in the world at random but there are regions where the domestication started. The center of origin is also considered the center of diversity. A region that has most highest variety of fermented soybean foods in the world must be Shan State. If the Vavilov’s theory can apply to fermented soybean foods, Shan State is the center of origin of the fermented soybean foods.
Shan State: A Huge Variety of Fermented Soybeans 27
[Muse, Shan State] Fried Dry Pebouk So with sweet taste
[Muse, Shan State] Mixed Pebouk So with Chili source
Shan State: A Huge Variety of Fermented Soybeans 28
[Muse, Shan State] Steamed Pebouk So with Chili. It is clay-like consistency.
[Muse, Shan State] Pebouk Chouk can be seen anywhere in the market and grocery store.
Shan State: A Huge Variety of Fermented Soybeans 29
[Nam Kham, Shan State] Pebouk So with chili. This has no stick at all.
[Nam Kham, Shan State] Dry Pebouk So
Shan State: A Huge Variety of Fermented Soybeans 30
[Bhamo, Shan State] Sticky Pebouk So wrapping by Ficus Spp.
[Bhamo, Shan State] Fermented Soybean paste.
Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 6
Pebouk producing by ethnic Shan (ethnic Tai Yai)
31
Fermenting 32
Commercial Pebouk producers uses plastic bag as same as Laos and Thailand. However, they put Leaves of Dipterocarpus tuberculatus or Tectona grandis into bag when fermenting. This has no sticky at all.
Some producer used to use fern when fermenting. According to interview, fern is still using in other regions of Shan state.
Processing: Disk-shaped Pebouk
They developed the special grinder for Pebouk. After crushed, they mix salt, chili and ginger with pebouk as same as Thailand.
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To make disk-shaped Pebouk, people use a wooden board. This is also the same as Tai Yai in Northern Thailand.
Cooking Pebouk Chouk in Local Restaurant in Nam Kham
Fried Pebouk Chouk
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Vegetables with Pebouk Chouk
Pebouk producing by ethnic Zaiwa, Kachin State
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Myitkyna Market: Pebouk So 36
In Myitkyna, Kachin state, there is pea-shaped sticky fermented soybeans. This is more highly sticky than Bhamo of Shan State.
The Myitkyna market has only pea-shaped sticky fermented soybeans. Other shaped Pebouk are seldom seen.
Special Lecture Department of Microbiology, Sikkim University
September 25, 2012
Satoshi YOKOYAMA (Department of Geography, Nagoya University) 7
Fermenting 37
The producer directly wraps boiled soybeans with Ficus leaf. This method was transmitted from parent.
Ficus trees are planted in home garden.
Fermenting 38
Producer leaves fire during fermenting in the hut for Pebouk.
Dry pea-shaped fermented soybean also widely produced in Kachin state.
Fermenting soybean in this basket
Conclusion
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Interregional Comparison 40
Region (Ethnic Group)
Container Plant UsesShape and Volume in Local Market
( Many Moderate FewPea-shaped Crushed Disk-shaped
Northern Thailand(Shan)
Plastic BagBamboo Basket
Tectona spp.Shorea spp. (Lowly Sticky) (Thin)
Shan(Shan)
Plastic BagBamboo Basket
Tectona spp. Shorea spp.Fern
(Lowly StickyProcessing) (wide variety)
Kachin (Zaiwa)
Bamboo Basket Ficus spp. (Sticky) (wide variety)
Laos(Tai) Plastic Bag None (No Sticky)
East Sikkim (Limbu)
Bamboo Basket
FernFicus spp. N.A. (Highly
Sticky)N.A.
Homogeneous Regions of Non-salty Fermented Soybeans from the Geographical Viewpoint
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Three transnational homogeneous regions of non-salty fermented soybeans are created by plant use. 1.! Shan-N. Thailand Region: Using
Shorea spp. or Tectona spp. for fermentation, and using plastic bags for commercial disk-shaped fermented soybean production.
2.! Shan-Himalayas Region: Using Fern for fermentation, and having a variety of processed fermented soybeans.
3.! Kachin-Himalayas Region: Using Ficus spp. for fermentation and mostly producing pea-shaped or crushed fermented soybeans.
Challenges for the Future 1.! How do we understand different and similarity of fermentation
method among the region ! Kachin’s Pebouk has more similar with Himalayas than Shan State.
2.! Unitary origin or plurality origin? ! Transmigration route of each ethnic group must be studied in addition to plant use for fermentation. Also we have to examine adaptability of Vavilov’s theory to diversity of fermented soybean production.
3.! Was ancient Kinema, Pebouk and Toua-nao made from soybean? ! The origin of cultivated soybean thought to be around the downstream of the Yangzi River, China. The history of soybean in Southeast Asia is not so old, might be a few hundred yeas ago. What kind of beans were people used for making Kinema, Pebouk and Toua-nao there?
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