^ ARMSCOR

DOCUMENT NUMBER ISSUE DATE

05181-100-023 OCTOBER 2005

Specification for Thermal-Wear Fabric

SUMMARY Knitted Double Face Fabric for Thermal Underwear

DATE OF ORIGINAL ISSUE November 1995

KEYWORDS Double Face Fabric, Knitted, Tubular Tuck, Thermal Underwear

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APPROVAL PAGE

Compiled by: Clothing Division - SABS

Approved by:

•~-P

•vfircKK. - L X Technical Adviser: SAAU System SA Army

Date a pn c6

Approved by:

SS(3: General Commodities SA Army

X Date

Approved by: User Syslem Representative SA Army

/z- (^o~6 Date

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AMENDMENT HISTORY

DOC ISSUE DATE AMENDMENTS DOC CHANGE

PROPOSAL NO.

CHECKED DOC ISSUE DATE AMENDMENTS DOC CHANGE

PROPOSAL NO. NAME INIT.

1 11-1995 Doc no changed and cover page added

N/A J Billingham

2 09-2001 Spec converted to MS Word N/A KC v Deventer

3 10-2005

1) Changed from SABS references to SANS references,

2) fabric colour code (par. 3.2.4.2b),

3) inclusion of an LAQ (limit of acceptable quality) (par. 3.2.4.6),

4) changes as per standard Checklist

5) withdrawal of requirements specified in the Special Conditions of the contract

26156 26161 27027

J Billingham

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LIST OF CONTENTS

CHAP. & PAR TITLE PAGE

Title page 1 Approval page 2 Amendment history 3 List of contents 4 Foreword 6

1. Scope 7

7 7 7 7 7 7 8

8 8 8 8 8 9 9 9 9 9 10

12 12 12 12 13 13 13 13 13 13 13 13

2. 2.1

Applicable Documents Government Documents

2.2 Armscor Documents 2.3 National and International Documents 2.3.1 Specifications 2.3.2 Test methods 2.3.3 Other documents

3. Requirements 3.1 Product definition 3.1.1 Major components list 3.1.2 Interfaces 3.1.3 Identification and marking 3.1.4 Client furnished equipment or material 3.2 Characteristics 3.2.1 Performance characteristics 3.2.2 Physical characteristics 3.2.3 Maintainability 3.2.4 Design and construction

4. Quality assurance provisions 4.1 Classification of defects 4.2 Test methods 4.2.1 Conditioning of test specimens and test conditions 4.2.2 Composition 4.2.3 Construction 4.2.4 Yarn linear density 4.2.5 Mass per unit area 4.2.6 Stitch length 4.2.7 Comfort 4.2.8 Dimensional changes on washing 4.2.9 Colour fastness to light

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4.2.10 Colour fastness to washing 13 4.2.11 Colour fastness to perspiration 13

5. Notes 13 5.1 General 13 5.2 Definitions 14

APPENDIX 10: KNITTING OF TUBULAR TUCK FABRIC 15 APPENDIX 10.1: CONSTRUCTION OF TUBULAR TUCK (DOUBLE FACE) FABRIC 16 APPENDIX 20: DEFECTS 17 APPENDIX 30 18

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FOREWORD

This specification sets forth the materials required for, and the construction, properties, performance and

acceptance requirements of a knitted tubular tuck (double face) fabric that will be used to manufacture

thermal underwear for the SANDF.

The specification is arranged in 5 sections and three Appendices. Section 1 states the scope of the

specification. Section 2 lists the applicable documents. Section 3 details the requirements for the product,

the materials, the method of manufacture and standards of workmanship. Section 4 details the qualification

procedures, the quality assurance provisions, test methods and acceptance inspection procedures.

Section 5 contains definitions and notes on special requirements and documentation.

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1. SCOPE

This specification covers the materials, construction, properties, testing and acceptance

requirements of a knitted tubular tuck (double face) fabric. This fabric is to be used for the

manufacture of thermal underwear for the SA Army.

2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS

The following documents contain provisions that, through reference in this text, constitute

provisions of this specification. All documents are subject to revision and, since any reference

to a document is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of that document, parties to

agreements based on this specification are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the

most recent editions of the documents indicated below. Information on currently valid national,

international and CKS documents may be obtained from Standards South Africa and on RSA-

MIL-SPECs from the Bureau for RSA Military Standards (BRMS).

2.1 Government Documents

This section is not applicable to this specification.

2.2 Armscor Documents

This section is not applicable to this specification.

2.3 National and International Documents

2.3.1 Specifications

SANS 10004, Terms and definitions for textiles and textile merchandise

SANS 10076-4, The assessment of defects in textile piece-goods and made-up articles - Part

4: Defects in knitted piece-goods

SANS 10011, Care-labelling of textiles and clothing

SANS 10153-1, The labelling and marking of textiles - Part 1: Direct markings on piece goods

SANS 10153-2, The labelling and marking of textiles - Part 2: Labelling of piece-goods and

marking of bulk containers

2.3.2 Test methods

SANS 70, Conditioning of textiles and standard temperature atmosphere for determining their

physical and mechanical properties

SANS 5275, Wales and courses per unit length in knitted textile fabrics

SANS 5385 (SABS SM 385), Mass per unit area of conditioned knitted textiles

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SANS 105 - B02/ISO 105 - B02, Colour fastness of textiles to artificial light: (xenon lamp

method)

SANS 105 - C03/ISO 105 - C03, Colour fastness of textiles to washing: Test 3

SANS 105 - E04/ISO 105 - E04, Colour fastness of textiles to perspiration (histidine method)

SANS 960 (SABS SM 960), Dimensional changes of textile fabrics during washing

SANS 6103 (SABS SM 1103), Linear density of yams in weft knitted fabrics

SANS 6104 (SABS SM 1104), Stitch length of weft-knitted fabrics

2.3.3 Other documents

This section is not applicable to this specification.

3. REQUIREMENTS

3.1 Product definition

A thermal-wear fabric is a double face fabric knitted in a tubular tuck structure. It is

manufactured from polyester and cotton yarns in such a manner that it comprises two different

faces, namely a polyester face and a cotton face. The fabric is produced from 100% spun

polyester and 100% combed cotton yams. The fabric has to be bleached, dyed, finished and

heat set in a specific manner so that it exhibits the required properties, including a high comfort

rating. The fabric is made up into thermal t-shirts or long Johns with the polyester face on the

inside of the garment (facing the skin).

3.1.1 Major components list

Major components used in the manufacture of the thermal-wear are listed below:

(a) 100% spun polyester yarn; and

(b) combed 100% cotton yam.

3.1.2 Interfaces

All interfaces are addressed under the requirements of the specification.

3.1.3 Identification and marking

3.1.3.1 Thermal-wear fabric

Each roll of fabric shall be labelled and marked according to SANS 10153, Parts 1 and 2.

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3.1.3.2 Care-labelling

The maximum maintenance procedure (care instructions) applicable to the fabric shall be

according to SANS 10011. (See details in paragraph 3.2.3)

3.1.4 Client furnished equipment or material

This sub-clause is not applicable to this specification.

3.2 Characteristics

3.2.1 Performance characteristics

The thermal-wear fabric is intended to be used for thermal t-shirts and long Johns and shall

give satisfactory wear for a period of twelve months. It is a critical requirement that the cotton

face should be on the outside of the garments, and the polyester face on the inside (facing the

skin).

3.2.2 Physical characteristics

3.2.2.1 Fabric width:

3.2.2.2 Storage requirements:

Temperature range:

Humidity:

3.2.2.3 Transport requirements:

3.2.3.4 Durability factors:

3.2.2.5 Health and safety criteria:

The minimum width between cut lines; edges or stenter

pinholes shall be 130cm.

Dry storage for a period not exceeding 15 months.

-10°Cto50°C

Maximum 50% relative humidity.

Minimum 25% relative humidity.

The fabric shall be able to be transported by road, rail or air.

Dependant on wear conditions -1 year normal wear.

No obnoxious or toxic gasses should be released and the fabric

must not cause allergic (skin) reactions.

3.2.3 Maintainability

Garments made from the thermal-wear fabric shall withstand daily cleaning as follows:

(a) Laundering using water and soap or mild detergent at a temperature not exceeding

60°C.

(b) Use only recommended softening agents.

(c) Drip dry or iron at a temperature not exceeding 150°C (warm iron ••).

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3.2.4 Design and construction

3.2.4.1 Design

The required design detail is specified in Table 1. and Figure 1.

3.2.4.2 Materials

(a) Knitted fabric

The tubular tuck fabric shall be knitted from 100% spun polyester and 100% combed

cotton yarns. The knitted fabric shall be scoured, bleached (full bleach), dyed,

finished (softened) and heat set. When tested in accordance with the relevant test

methods given in 4.2.2, the final product shall comply with the requirements given in

Table 1.

(b) Colour

The colour of the fabric (both the cotton and the polyester face) shall be an acceptable

match, in terms of SANS 10076-4, to colour No. CKS 129:87c "Pine Green" (thermal

wear) of CKS 129 "Colour for textiles", unless otherwise permitted by the SA Army.

(c) Colour match1'

The colour of the fabric (both the cotton and polyester faces) shall comply with the

following:

1) Colour difference has been defined by reference to the International Geometric

Grey Scale for the assessment of change in colour. It is accepted that this is

not a perfect method. The SABS uses a readily available colour difference

meter and will, on request, give the values that are used when that instrument is

being used.

It would be preferable to carry out inter-laboratory tests to obtain a correlation between

the results given by the different instruments in use.

1. Any difference between the colour of a piece or sample from a piece and that of

the specified colour must not exceed the difference represented by grade 3-4 of

the International Geometric Grey Scale for the assessment of colour;

2. Any difference between the colours of any two pieces of fabric supplied against

the same contract by the same manufacturer shall also not exceed the

difference represented by grade 4 of the International Geometric Grey Scale;

and

3. The maximum difference between the colours of different parts of one piece of

fabric shall not exceed the difference represented by grade 4-5 of the

International Geometric Grey Scale.

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3.2.4.3 Construction

(a) Fabric structure

The fabric shall be of a tubular tuck (double face) construction, as shown in Appendix

10.1 Figure 1.

(b) Knitting details

The fabric shall be knitted on an 18 or 20 gg circular knitting machine. Typical

conditions pertaining to an 18 gg knitting machine are given in Table 1 in Appendix 10.

(c) Finishing

The knitted fabric shall be scoured, bleached (full bleach), dyed, finished (softened)

and heat set to comply with the requirements given in Table 1. (See 3.2.4.2(a)).

TABLE 1 - FABRIC REQUIREMENTS 1 2 3

Property Requirements Test Method Composition Cotton and

polyester Visual examination

and chemical analysis

Construction Tubular tuck (double face)

Visual examination

Nominal linear density of yarn, tex Cotton Polyester

15,5 + 0,5 15,5 + 0,5

SANS 6103

Mass per unit area g/m2 175 + 15 SANS 5385 Stitch length, mm

Dial or cylinder only Cylinder with tuck

3,7 + 0,5 2,5 + 0,1

SANS 6104

Comfort vote Normal conditions, WC

Active sportswear, WC

<3,0

<2,0

Hohenstein Institute Skin Model Test (BPI1.2and 1.3)

Dimensional changes on washing, %, max. Length Width

12 12

SANS 960, Procedure A1*

Colour fastness to light, rating, min.** 5 SANS 105-B02 Colour fastness to washing, rating, min.**

Change in colour Staining of transfer cloths

4 4

SANS 105-C03

Colour fastness to perspiration, rating, min.** Change in colour Staining of transfer cloths

4 4

SANS 105-E04

* Except that the samples must be tumble-dried for 20 mins at 70°C instead of pressed.

** Both the face and back of the fabric should be tested.

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3.2.4.4 Special requirements

This sub-clause is not applicable to this specification.

3.2.4.5 Standards of manufacture

The fabrics and finish shall be of a standard at least equal to that of the standard samples (see

3.2.4.7).

3.2.4.6 Workmanship

The thermal-wear fabric shall have been made in accordance with sound manufacturing

practice and shall be of acceptably uniform make, width, colours and finish and shall be least

equal in quality, handle and appearance to the corresponding sealed pre-production sample

held by the Procurement Authority.

The permissible number of defects shall be based on the following LAQ:

For pieces: 10

For a lot: 8

All defects shall be strung. 20 cm shall be deducted for each strung defect and in the case of a

continuous strung defect the length of the measured defect along the length of the fabric shall

be deducted.

3.2.4.7 Standard sample

This sub-clause is not applicable to this specification.

4. QUALITY ASSURANCE PROVISIONS

4.1 Classification of defects

Any defect or combination of defects or deviations from the specification that render the fabric

unacceptable, or are such that the fabric cannot be issued. Defects such as listed in, but not

limited to, Appendix 20.

4.2 Test methods

Examine and measure each piece in the thermal-wear fabric sample for compliance with all the

requirements of Section 3 for which tests to assess compliance are given in 4.2.2 to 4.2.10.

4.2.1 Conditioning of test specimens and test conditions

Prepare and condition the test specimens in accordance with SANS 70 and conduct the

physical tests in this conditioned atmosphere without removing the specimens from the

conditioned atmosphere.

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4.2.2 Composition

Use visual examination and chemical analysis.

4.2.3 Construction

Use visual examination.

4.2.4 Yarn linear density

Use SANS 6103.

4.2.5 Mass per unit area

Use SANS 5385.

4.2.6 Stitch length

Use SANS 6104.

4.2.7 Comfort

Use Hohenstein Institute Skin Model Test. (BPI 1.2 and 1.3, with the polyester side facing the

skin).

4.2.8 Dimensional changes on washing

Use SANS 960, Procedure A1, but tumble-dry samples for 20 minutes at 70°C instead of

pressing.

4.2.9 Colour fastness to light

Use SANS 105-B02.

4.2.10 Colour fastness to washing

Use SANS 105-C03.

4.2.11 Colour fastness to perspiration

Use SANS 105-E04.

5. NOTES

5.1 General

Requirements with regard to Comfort Vote as specified in Table 1 and the related Hohenstein

Institute Skin Model Test specified in paragraph 4.2.7 is only applicable for research and

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development purposes. Testing of the Comfort Vote will not be done during production of the

thermal underwear fabric and is listed in this specification for reference purposes only.

5.2 Definitions

For the purposes of this specification, the following definitions apply in addition to SANS

10004.

Acceptable: An item that complies with the specifications and any requirements as reviewed

by the contracting party or duly appointed SA Army representative.

Batch: A quantity of thermal-wear fabric manufactured at one time covered by one work ticket

and recorded on the product for traceability.

Lot: A consignment of finished thermal-wear fabric presented for inspection at one time,

intended for despatch to one destination.

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APPENDIX 10: KNITTING OF TUBULAR TUCK FABRIC

Tables 1 give some typical details for knitting a tubular tuck fabric on an 18 gg double jersey-knitting

machine.

TABLE 1 - KNITTING DETAILS

Machine type Double jersey machine, 18gg, 30", 3408 needles R.p.m. 15.5 Dial height 0.2mm Take down tension Medium Gating Rib Timing Delayed Yarn input (one revolution) Dial only - 643cm over 1704 needles

Cylinder only - 643cm over 1704 needles Cylinder with tuck 637cm over 2556 needles

Yarn input tension 3,0-3,5 cN Trip tape feed Positive feed

Stitch length Dial or cylinder only - 3.7mm Cylinder with tuck - 2.5mm

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APPENDIX 10.1: CONSTRUCTION OF TUBULAR TUCK (DOUBLE FACE) FABRIC

FEEDER YARN DETAILS RIB GATING

1. 15.5 Tex combed cotton I I I I I I I I I I I I I DIAL

rTTTTTTrrrm 0™** 2. 15.5 Tex spun polyester | | | | | | I | | | | | | DIAL

I I I I I I I I I I I I I CYLINDER

3. 15.5 Tex combed cotton I \ I I I I I j I I I I I DIAL

f T t V f Y T Y T m SUNDER • 4. 15.5 Tex spun polyester I [ ) I I I I I I I I I I DIAL

| | | | | | | | | | | | | CYLINDER

REPEAT

• = TUCK STITCH • = KNIT STITCH

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APPENDIX 20: DEFECTS

Defects include but are not limited to those listed below:

20.1 Isolated defects (slub, knot, foreign body, wrong yam).

20.2 Fabric ruptures (cut, hole).

20.3 Structural ruptures (pin hole).

20.4 Stains and discolorations (uneven dyeing, shading, dye stain, oil mark).

20.5 Selvedge defects (deep pinning).

20.6 Surface defects (crease, abrasion mark, crack mark).

20.7 Variations in the direction of the courses (bowing).

20.8 Overall appearance defects (moire).

20.9 Defects peculiar to weft knitting (barre, press off, needle line, ladder, dropped stitch).

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APPENDIX 30

The fabric used for the cuffs, etc of the garments made from the thermal-wear fabric should meet the

following requirements:

PROPERTY REQUIREMENT Yarn 100% cotton Nominal linear density of yarn, tex 25±.1 Fabric structure 1 x 1 rib Fabric mass g/m2, min 220 Stitch length mm 3.0 ±0.2 Colour Pine Green

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