Garment Spreading andits EquipmentsSewn Products Machinery and EquipmentsSubmitted by -Charu Bhatia (MUM13AP30)Harsh Kumar Tomar (MUM13AP34)shita Pat!ai" (MUM13AP3#)$a!aa Kha!de%&a%a (MUM13AP)Ma!ish Si!'h (MUM13AP##)B()(Te*h - + Sem(S,readi!' - a! .$er$ie&An insight into the principles, working and mechanism of the process ofspreading, and the machines pertaining to it.Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table of garments, cutting table, or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process. A spread or lay-up is the total amount of fabric prepared for a single session of cutting. A single lot of spreading may consist of a single or multiple plies. he height of a lay!up or spreading is limited by fabric characteristics si"e of the order to be cut, cutting method, and the #ertical capacity of the spreader. he number of plies in a spread may range from $ to %&&..b/e*ti$es o0 the S,readi!' Pro*esso place a number of plies of fabric under the marker according to the planning process, in the colour required, correctly aligned with respect to therequisite length and width 'at the correct tension(.Basi* S,readi!' 12ui,me!t 0or 3arme!t Cutti!'he following are the paraphernalia in#ol#ed in the process of spreading) Spreading surfaces Spreading machines *abric control de#ices during spreading, and *abric cutting de#icesSe#eral +rms operate producti#ely with manually operated equipment, while large!scale +rms +nd automated, high!tech equipment to be cost!e,ecti#e for their operations. Ty,es o0 )abri* S,readhe spread can be of two basic types) )%at s,read! All the plies are of the same length. Ste,,ed s,read! this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one step ha#ing the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut precludes the use of a -atspread. he cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a stepped spread, if it is needed. Modes .0 S,readi!'.pen *abric, *ace .ne /ay, 0ap .ne /ay '*1.1/, 01.1/(Spreading Mode2 .pen *abric, *ace .ne /ay, 0ap 3P and 4own '*1.1/,01314(Spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric is cut at the far end, rotated $5& degrees, then spread to the beginning. he *abric is cut and rotated $5& degrees then the process is repeated.Spreading Mode2 .pen *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap .ne /ay '*1*, 01.1/(Spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric is cut at the far end, the rollis brought to the beginning of the table, rotated $5& degrees, then spread tothe far end again. he *abric is cut at the far end, brought back to thebeginning of the table, rotated $5& degrees then the process is repeated.Spreading Mode2 .pen *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap 3p and 4own '*1*, 01314(Spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric is folded o#er at the far end, then spreading continues back to the beginning of the table. he *abric is folded o#er then the process is repeated.Spreading Mode2 *olded *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap .ne /ay '*1*, 01.1/(*olded fabric spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric is cut at the farend, then returned to the beginning. hen the process is repeated. .n thecontrol side of the table the *old is superimposed one layer on the pre#iouslayer.his process is also used on tubular rolled fabric.Spreading Mode2 *olded *abric, *ace to *ace, 0ap 3p and 4own '*1*, 01314(Spreading starts at one end of the table. *abric is spread to the far end of thetable. he fabric is folded o#er, then spread back to the beginning. he fabricis folded o#er, then the process is repeated. .n the control side of the tablethe *old is superimposed one layer on the pre#ious layer. his process is alsoused on tubular rolled fabric.S,readi!' Parametershe following need to be kept in mind when laying a spread for cutting) Alignment of plies in both length and width direction! length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width. Elimination of fabric defects1-aws! any faults identi+ed on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be a#oided. 6orrect ply direction 'especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics(! all faces up, all faces down, face to face etc. 6orrect ply tension! ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible. A#oidance of distortion in the spread during cutting! polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife. *abrics must be -at and free from any crinkle 7 crease! these cause defect in garments due to #ariation in dimension. 6hecks and stripes should be matched. S,readi!' Sur0a*eshe appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the +rm8s quality standards. Spreading requires a -at, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated cutting often requires spreading and cutting to be done in ad9acent but separate locations.Spreading and cutting surfaces are a#ailable in standard widths that correspond to fabric width. 0arrow fabric can be spread on a wider table. A spreading surface needs to be about $& inches wider than the fabric. Spreading tables may ha#e tracks or rails placed along one or both sides of atabletop or 9ust a few inches o, the -oor. his track helps guide and control the spreader as it mo#es up and down the length of the table. /ith some types of equipment, the table tracks are geared to synchroni"e the mo#ement of the spreading machine with fabric unrolling, in order to regulate the tension.Spreading tables may also be #ery speciali"ed for certain types of fabric and cutting equipment. Pin tables ha#e rows of pins located below the surface that can be e:tended through slats to hold fabric in a precise location for accurate matching of pattern repeats. Vacuum tables are used to compress lay!up and pre#ent shifting or mo#ement during cutting. A spread is co#ered with a plastic +lm that forms a seal o#er the lay!up when #acuum is created. A lay!up of quilted fabric can be compressed as much as ;< percent when the #acuum is created. his allows more plies in the lay!up and restricts the mo#ement of slippery fabrics for more accurate cutting. 6utting equipment may be mo#ed to a lay!up as another lay!up is prepared further down the table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and then transferred to the cutting surface.Air fotation tables, when acti#ated, allow easy mo#ement of a lay!up onto an ad9acent cutting area. A layer of air between the table surface and the bottom layer of paper reduces friction and allows a lay!up to be mo#ed easily without putting stress on the fabric or the operators. Spreading tables with con#eyori"ed surfaces carry the fabric to the cutting machine so that no time is wasted. =deally, one lay!up can be cut while is being spread. 6on#eyors may be used with computeri"ed cutting systems, large die presses, and laser cutters. =t can support upto