The crankset system is an external bearing system. The bottom bracket bearing are mounted inside threaded cups. Use a grease or anti seize to prepare threads in the bottom bracket shell (Figure 1).
The left crank is removed by simply turning the 8mm hex fitting counter-clockwise. The arm includes a "one-key" release system. There is no need to remove the system. The release system is secured with a 16mm hex wrench. The fitting may come loose. If a 16mm hex wrench is not available, substitute the head of a bolt that uses a 16mm head. Another option is a 5/8" head, common on 1/2" SAE threaded bolts. Use the SCW-16 and secure the one-key system into the crank (Figure 5).
Figure 5
LEVERS
The lever mounting bolt is accessed by pulling the rubber cover (Figure 6). Use a 5mm hex wrench such as the AWS-1 to secure lever.
Figure 6
Shift wires install from the inside face of the lever body. Pull cover back on lower portion of lever to expose wire access hole (Figure 7). The shift wire must make a relatively quick 90-degree turn from horizontal to vertical (Figure 8). It can be useful to give the cable a slight curve. It is best to use new shift wires or wires that have been soldered. Freshly cut wires may have difficulty making the bend. Secure the housing to the bar with tape.
Brake wires feed threw the top of the brake lever. Pull back on the lever and look for the cable anchor pivot (Figure 9). The wire and housing will exist on the inner face of the lever.
Figure 9
Install housing and again secure with tape before wrapping bars (Figure 10).
After attaching cables, shift derailleur to the inner most cog. Push derailleur forward and use the "B-screw" to set a 6mm gap between the upper pulley and largest cog Figure 12).
Figure 12
Service Note: The rear derailleur cage may be removed to replace pulley wheels (Figure 13). However, the lower cage does not come off of the derailleur body. Internal parts of the lower pivot are not serviceable.
The limit screws use a #2 Phillips screwdriver, such as the SD-2. The upper screw controls the inner limit of the cage, while the lower screw controls the out limit of the cage (Figure 15).
The cassette cogs will install similar to other makes. The freehub body will have a wide space that accepts the wide spline inside the cogs (Figure 18).
Figure 18
The first few cogs of the system have a tooth missing as part of the design. The chain is able to shift using these gaps (Figure 19).
The brake calipers use a dual pivot design. Each arm has a separate pivot and pivot bolt system. Adjust the pads like any other dual pivot. There is no centering screw on the caliper bridge for centering pads to the rim. There is a nut with wrench flats behind the caliper arms. Use a wrench to move the pads when centering the rim (Figure 20).
Figure 20
Like any dual pivot, play may develop in the caliper arms. Caliper must be removed from bike to adjust pivots. Hold brake mounting bolt in soft jaws such as the AV-4. Use a 2.5mm hex wrench to loose the set screw under the caliper arms (Figure 21). Set screw prevents bolt from turning and must be loosed before any pivot adjustment can be made.
Figure 21
The outer arm uses a 7M bolt adjusted from the back of the brake. The bolt uses a star-shaped drive such as the TWS-2 (Figure 22). Secure set screw after adjustments are made. Center arm is adjusted with the mounting bolt and the adjusting nut at the back of the arm.
This article will discuss the Shimano "Coasting" system. The Coasting system uses a 3-speed internal hub. The shifting is done automatically the "Automatic Unit" (AI). The electricity to operate the Automatic Unit comes from the dynamo (generating) front hub. From a speed of zero, the bike begins in the lowest gear (first gear). As the bike picks up speed, the dynamo hub produces more electricity and a winder mechanism in the Automatic Unit pulls a shift cable chaning to 2nd gear. With more speed comes more electrical power, and the winder pulls the shift cable more and the bike shifts to the highest gear, third gear. As the rider slows, the electrical current drops and the bike again shifts back to second and then to first gear.
The 2nd gear position provide a 1-to-1 gearing ratio. The hub turns the same speed as the rear cog. The 1st gear position allows the hub shell and spokes to turn slower then the hub, which reduces the stress on the pedals. 1st gear reduces the gearing approximately 25% from the 2nd gear position. 3rd gear position will turn the hub shell faster then the rear cog. This allows requires more force to turn, but will increase the gearing by approximately 30%.
The gearing options can be viewed in terms of a "theoretical three speed derailleur." The 2nd gear or "neutral" option is basically the same as a one-speed. The gearing is simply the ratio of the front chainring to to the rear cog. For example, assume a bike uses a 33-tooth front ring and a 16-tooth rear. The rear wheel will turn about twice for each pedal revolution. If the front wheel has a circumference of 86-inches (common for the 700C tire sizing), the bike will move forward 129-inches per revolution. Switching to an easier gear, 1st gear, would be similar to shifting to a 21 tooth cog with the same front ring. Third gear, the fastest gear, would be a 12 tooth rear cog with the same 33 tooth front ring.
The front hub contains the dynamo and is secured to the frame by axle nuts. Use a 10mm hex wrench to loosen and remove the hub covers. Each side of the hub uses special non-turn axle washer against the fork dropouts. The hub cover aligns with these washers. If the covers is cracked or lost, the axle nuts are still functional.
The hub dynamo cable is designed to go on the right side of the hub
The hub dynamo cable runs along the frame and from the Automatic Unit to the front fork. As with any wiring, is it best to have it secured to the frame. Supplement any build in holding devises with zip ties as necessary. When installing the covers, use care not to pinch or bind the dynamo power cable. It should not rub against the hub as it rotates. The connection terminal on the wire is not symmetrical. The ground connection on the terminal end must connect with the ground terminal of the dynamo. This is marked on both the wire and dynamo.
It is important that the right hub cover not pinch or cut the dynamo cable.
The Automatic Unit has an adjustment for personal preference on shifting priority. There are four possible settings plus an optional for only second gear at all times. Use a flat tipped screwdriver such as the SD-3 to turn the dial. The most counter-clockwise setting will delay shifting. This means the bike will stay in lower, easier pedaling gears longer as the bike picks up speed. Use this position if the rider perfers to spin at higher cadences. As the adjuster to turned clockwise, priority is given to larger gearing, or harder pedaling gears. The bike will shift to these higher gears more quickly. Use these clockwise setting if the rider has a relatively slower cadence style. The most clockwise position, the fifth position, is the "N" position. The bike will shift to the 2nd gear when used and stay there, making it effectively a one-speed.
Adjusting the Automatic Unit of the Coasting system
The rear hub shell contains a system of planetary and sun gears. It is basically a small transmission housed inside the hub shell. An adjusting rod on the right side is depressed to move the gearing inside the hub.
The Coasting system uses an internal coaster or back-pedaling brake. Like other coaster brakes, there is a brake arm that must be fixed to the frame. The Coasting system uses a plate system rather then the traditional coasting brake with extended arm and chain stay strap. The brake arm unit is also secured to the dropout with brake arm fixing bolts.
Loosen the brake arm fixing bolts before loosening the axle nut
The drive side uses a cover fixing stay for the domed shaped cover. The bell crank unit is then mounted under the axle nut and secured. The non-drive side on the hub uses a non-turn washer. Chain tension is set as with any two-sprocket bike. After chain tension is correctly set, install brake arm fixing bolts and washers on the non-drive side.
A metal cable system connects the Automatic Unit to the rear hub at the bell crank unit. The bell crank unit is a lever system that puhes on the adjusting rod in the axle.
The bell crank unit and adjusting rod of the Coasting rear hub in first gear
The shifting cable in double ended and is fitted through shift housing. One end has a small end to fit through the barrel adjuster.
Cable end and barrel adjuster of bell crank unit
The other end has a end similar to a derailleur shift wire and fits into the winder mechanism of Automatic Unit. The cable must be attached before adjusting the hub gears.
The winder mechanism of the Automatic Unit holds one end of the of the shift cable
As with other internal gear hubs, the system must be set when it is in "neutral" gear. There are two methods to achieve this. For either method, begin by rotating the Automatic Unit adjustment dial all the way clockwise to the "N" position. Rotate the front wheel and charge the Automatic Unit, causing it to pull the cable and bell crank unit to the 2nd gear position. Inspect at the juncture of the right side axle end and the push rod. There is a small machined circle on the axle. Use the barrel adjuster to change the effective housing length until the machined mark is flush with the axle end.
Cable tension adjusted so mark in rod is flush with axle end
OPTIONAL ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
The Coasting system can be calibrated without charging the Automatic Unit. Remove the cover and inspect the right side for the winder unit. In the winder unit will be a hex fitting for a 5mm wrench. Insert a 5mm wrench and rotate the unit clockwise unit the wrench hits the metal stop plate.
Rotate back clockwise slightly until a stop if felt. Inspect the hex fitting and the stop plate. The flat of the hex fitting should be aligned with the "N" mark on the stop plate.
Align hex fitting in winder unit and the "N" mark in stop plate
REAR WHEEL REMOVAL
The rear wheel is removed from rear-facing dropouts. Remove both left and right side covers. Remove brake arm fixing bolts and washers. Loosen axle nut. Note orientation of the non-turn washer. This washer is used to prevent the axle from rotating in the dropout.
Disengage the cable from the bell crank unit. Depress the adjusting rod and pull cable end from lever. Pull lever away from axle and remove adjusting rod. Use a 15mm wrench to loosen and remove axle nut.
Remove bell crank unit and cover fixing stay bracket. Disengage chain from chainring and pull wheel back and out of dropouts.
When re-installing wheel, the process is the reverse. Do not install adjusting rod or shift cable until chain tension is properly.
REAR HUB OVERHAUL
The rear hub can be overhauled if necessary. The hub is seal well, and should not require frequent maintenance. The main purpose of an overhaul would be to clean and grease bearings. It is not necessary to dismantle the assembled unit to access the bearings.
a. Begin by removing rear wheel and clamping wheel in axle vise with right side upward.
b. Remove snap ring holding sprocket, and remove sprocket from hub.
c. Remove both left hand locknuts. Rotate brake arm unit as necessary to access nuts. Lift off brake unit.
d. Remove brake shoes from left side.
e. Push internal assembly unit from the left toward the right. Push on end of axle.
f. To access bearings, remove right side cone locknut and cone.
The internal parts of the Coasting hub.
FRONT HUB OVERHAUL
The front hub requies special 8-point socket tool to remove the dynamo from the hub shell. Service without these tools is not recommend. Contact Shimano for the tools.
AUTOMATIC UNIT
The Automatic Unit is attached to the frame with a special bracket. The Unit will slide over the bracket and secure with a screw.
Bracket of the Automatic Unit
The Automatic Unit cover is held on by two screws. This permits adjustment or installation of the shift cable. It is recommended that the Automatic Unit not be opened. There are no effectively serviceable parts. The dynamo hub cable charges a capacitor inside the Automatic Unit. The capacitor is continuously charged when the bike is moving. The charge is used to both turn the winder and to hold the hub crank bell unit in place. The Automatic unit is also fitted with a potentiometer or variable resistor. This is a control similar to the volume control on a radio. It is used to control the shifting priority of the Automatic Unit.
Inside the Automatic Unit
Workshop: Troubleshooting Shimano gearsBy Hilary Stone
1 Chain comes off or won't go onto big chainring (Bike Radar)
Gears not shifting as well as they should? We show you the tricks you need to keep them clicking cleanly into place.
Before working on your gears, clean both derailleurs in situ with a degreaser. An old electric toothbrush is useful for getting at all the difficult spots.
Lube the main parallelogram pivots with PTFE or Triflon based lubricant. Clean the chain with an in situ chain-cleaning tool. Use a top quality chain lube and lube the rollers of the chain.
Don't apply lube to the outside of the chain. If using a spray lube, put a newspaper behind the chain to prevent lube getting on your wheels. Wipe off any excess.
1] Problem: Chain comes off or won't go on to big chainring
Check that the derailleur cage clears the top of the large chainring's teeth by about 1mm. If necessary, slacken the derailleur mounting bolt by about two turns and move the derailleur up or down to correct its height.
Set the derailleur cage so that a centre line through the cage runs parallel to the chainrings. Tighten the derailleur mounting bolt and check that the derailleur cage does not touch the outer chainwheel. Slacken off any down-tube or cable adjusters by turning them fully clockwise. The outer limit screw is normally the high gear stop (large chainwheel).
Shift on to the smallest chainwheel. Slacken the gear cable fastening bolt, pull the gear cable taut and refasten the cable fastening bolt. Shift on to the smallest sprocket and large chainwheel. Adjust the high limit screw so that the outer plate of the cage is about 1mm from the chain. Shift into the smallest rear cog.
Repeatedly shift on to the biggest chainring, adjusting the high limit screw half a turn at a time until it does so without hesitation, but does not overshoot the largest ring.
2] Problem: Chain comes off or won't go on to small chainring
Check the derailleur position, as in section 1. Slacken off any down tube or cable adjusters by turning them fully clockwise. Shift on to the smallest chainwheel and large rear sprocket. The inner limit screw is the low gear stop. Adjust this screw so the inner plate of the cage is about 1mm from the chain.
Check that, under repeated shifting from the largest to the smallest chainring, the chain shifts without hesitation but does not overshoot the small chainwheel inwards. If necessary, adjust the low gear limit screw half a turn at a time either to make the shifting cleaner (anti-clockwise) or to prevent overshifting (clockwise).
Many front derailleurs won't shift on to the small chainwheel under a heavy pedalling load, even when correctly adjusted. Coat both spindle threads with anti-seize grease and refit.
3] Problem: Chain rubs on derailleur cage on middle chainwheel of a triple
Move the chain onto the middle chainwheel (by moving one click upwards from the small chainwheel) and largest rear sprocket. Adjust the cable tension with the down-tube adjuster so that the clearance between the derailleur's cage inner plate and the chain is between 0.5 and 1mm. Click the front STI lever one click so the chain moves outboard a little. With the rear derailleur, select the smallest rear sprocket.
Check that there is about 1mm of clearance between the chain and inner plate of the derailleur cage. If there is not, readjust the cable tension (an eighth or quarter turn) of the down-tube adjuster. Then recheck the clearance when the front derailleur is in the inner trim position, and with the chain on the largest rear sprocket.
4] Problem: Chain comes off or won't go on to small rear sprocket
With the chain on the largest rear sprocket and smallest chainwheel, check the upper derailleur pulley is as close as possible to the large sprocket without fouling the sprockets (turn the B-screw, which controls the derailleur body angle, out nearly as far it'll go). Check for fouling of the other gears, tightening the B-screw if necessary. Move the chain to the smallest rear sprocket and middle chainwheel.
Back off the cable adjuster on the down-tube completely. Turn the cable adjuster fully clockwise and back off one complete turn anti-clockwise. Loosen the inner cable clamp. The high gear (small sprocket) limit screw is the upper one. Visually check the upper derailleur cage pulley is in line beneath the smallest rear sprocket. If not, adjust the limit screw. With pliers, pull the inner cable taut and tighten the cable clamp. Adjust indexing as in 6.
5] Problem: Chain won't go on or comes off large rear sprocket or chain/rear derailleur catches spokes
Shift into the lowest gear (largest rear sprocket). Visually check that the upper derailleur cage is in line beneath the largest rear sprocket. If it is not, adjust the limit screw until the pulley is exactly in line with the sprocket. Now shift to a couple of higher gears and back again to check that the chain does not overshift the largest rear sprocket. Screw in low gear adjuster on rear derailleur (lower screw) an eighth of a turn at a time until it no longer happens.
6] Problem: Rear derailleur doesn't change gear when selected or changes two gears at a time, or indexing is imprecise
Possible cause: Rear gear cable tension needs adjusting
Select top gear, turn the pedals forward and select the next gear. If the chain doesn't move smoothly to the next sprocket, turn the adjuster anti-clockwise half a turn at a time until it does. Select the next largest sprocket and
check that the chain will move cleanly to it. If not, turn the cable adjuster anti-clockwise a further quarter of a turn at a time until the change is clean.
Check that the upward shifts (to smaller sprockets) are still okay. If not, back off (turning clockwise) the cable adjuster until the shifts are correct. For 10-speed, select the second smallest sprocket. Press the STI lever just enough to take up the slack and turn the cranks.
If the chain shifts to the third smallest sprocket, turn the adjuster clockwise until the chain returns to the second sprocket. If no noise is heard at all, turn the adjuster anti-clockwise until the chain hits the third sprocket and makes a noise. Return the lever to second gear position; if the chain continues to rub on the third sprocket turn the adjuster clockwise until the noise stops. Check the rear derailleur now works correctly across the full range of the cassette.
Possible cause: Hanger alignment is incorrect (special tool required – only for the more experienced)
Incorrect rear derailleur hanger alignment is a common cause of gear indexing troubles. To correct the alignment, screw the special tool to the derailleur threads in the hanger. Adjust the pointer so it is in line with the rim and about 2mm above the rim. Rotate the pointer of the tool to the twelve, three, six and nine o'clock positions of the rim. The pointer should be at the same height above the rim at all positions.
To correct any misalignment, use the tool to bend the hanger so it is perfectly aligned at all four points. If you do not have the tool or have an aluminium or carbon fibre frame, you should take your bike to an experienced bike shop for a hanger alignment check.
Possible cause: Cables need replacing
Use the old outer cables as a guide for the new outer cable lengths – the length to the stops on the frame must be enough that the bars can be turned without tugging the cables. Use sharp cable cutters to trim the outer gear cable. The end may become slightly flattened, so squeeze it back into shape. Use a file to get the end as flat as possible and then open the liner up with a sharp point before fitting the ferrule. Select top gear. Back off all the cable adjusters. Loosen the cable clamp bolt and push the inner cable out through the shifter. Feed the new inner gear cable through the shifter lever and housing and through the first section of outer cable. Continue feeding the inner cables through the stops, bottom bracket guides and outer cable. Check that the ferrules are fitted and properly seated in the stops. Attach the inner wire to the derailleur clamp and, pulling the inner cable taut, tighten the clamp bolt. Adjust rear cable tension as described previously.
7] Problem: Chain jumping on sprockets
Possible cause: Chain tension needs adjusting
See 6] Cable/cassette needs lubrication/replacement
Possible cause: Chain is worn
Check the chain for wear with a chain wear checker tool, or use a steel rule and measure the chain's pin to pin distance over 24 links. If it's greater than 308mm, the chain is worn and needs replacing. Replacing the chain a little earlier, at 306mm, will probably obviate the need for a new cassette. Chain replacement is dependent on chain type.
Possible cause: Cassette is worn
If the chain is worn beyond the above limits, the cassette will probably be worn excessively as well and will need replacing at the same time as the chain. Slide the correct lockring tool into place and check that it is properly engaged in the splines. Refit the quick release and tighten sufficiently to keep the lockring tool fully seated in the splines of the lockring.
With the wheel vertical, place the chain whip on the left side of one of the larger sprockets. It should be positioned so that its handle is just above the horizontal.
Make sure that the chain is securely wrapped around the sprockets' teeth and that the short piece of chain on the chain whip is also fully engaged. Put a little pressure on the chain whip's handle to tension the chain. Fit a
large adjustable spanner to the lockring tool so that its handle is horizontal or just above on the right-hand side. Push down on both the chain whip and adjustable spanner firmly. The lockring should loosen easily. Take care not to let the chain whip slip.Remove the wheel's quick release. Loosen the lockring completely and remove it.
To fit a new cassette, align the triangular mark on top of the cassette body with the widest spline and slide on. It is very important to ensure that the spacers and shims all go in their correct position – it is easy to check by eye that all the sprockets are spaced identically apart.
Health: Put your feet firstBy Glen Duffy
Sad Feet (Paul Smith)
The latest groupset, the lightest frames, the most sculpted bars, the fanciest wheels; we’ve all been guilty of drooling over bikes and their components, but how long do we spend pondering one of our key contact areas with our bike – our shoes?
How stiff, light and what shape a shoe is can profoundly affect how efficiently our precious efforts are delivered to the pedals, crankset, chain and hence to where we really want it – our back tyre.
Getting to know your feet
Before you go shopping for your next pair of cycling shoes, take a moment to get to know more about your feet and their needs for a change. Once you can identify your foot shape and your arch shape, you will have a better chance of finding footwear that your feet appreciate and deserve. Here’s a naff but effective way to make a template of your foot, the perfect activity for a rainy day when you weren’t that keen on riding anyway.
Stand barefoot on a piece of paper March on the spot for a few seconds and then stand still Bend over and draw around your feet Compare your foot template with the foot shape and foot arch diagrams below
Step 2: Get wet then step inside
Place the paper next to your shower pan and get your feet wet With your soggy feet step inside the pre-drawn outlines Squat without letting your heels lift Step off the paper
Step 3: Do some colouring in
Your wet arch will have left a nice impression on the paper Colour in the still dry area Compare the non-coloured paper to the second set of diagrams below
Step 4: Cut out and keep
You now have a permanent reminder of your foot type Put this somewhere safe Every time you go to buy cycling (or running) shoes take your template with you for reference
Common foot and arch types
Compare your foot template with the foot shape and foot arch diagrams below.
The most common foot shape in the UK is Egyptian. Nicely ordered toes aren’t they? If you’ve a Morton or Greek foot then your big toe is shorter than the one next to it. If at least your second toe is the same length as your big toe then, sorry, you’ve got Peasant’s feet!
The average person has a Rectus foot, and those who have been told that they “overpronate” by their running shop or healthcare practitioner are likely to show a Planus foot type, or flat foot. Cavus foot types are more rigid, high arched and generally better suited to producing power.
Footwear as a functional choice
So, now armed with the story of your feet, it’s time to consider what type of riding you’re buying these shoes for. As with all footwear choice, trying to get one pair to meet all of your demands is often a false economy.
Multi-purpose: If you’re commuting, will be stepping off at traffic lights regularly or you also need to walk in your cycling shoes, then either a pair of mountain biking or casual shoes, with cleats that are recessed into the sole, should be considered.
If you use a normal pair of road-cycling shoes for these purposes, you may find that they do not tolerate the wear and tear and you end up spending more money in the long term than if you had chosen a separate pair of shoes for each task.
If you’re choosing such a shoe type as your only pair, try to get something that is as stiff as possible for efficiency on the bike, without making them too uncomfortable to walk in.
Specific purpose: If a dedicated road training/racing shoe is what you’re after, then stiffer is certainly better, and it should not be possible for you to notably flex any such shoe by hand. Again – and if you clock a lot of miles on grubby roads – then buying separate training and racing shoes may be the more economical way to go.
In the long run an expensive pair of shoes will provide you with many seasons of racing performance, while a cheaper ‘hack’ pair can be ridden until there’s no life left in them.
The art of reading shoes
So now you’ve listened to your feet and considered the purpose of your new purchase, it’s time to read some shoes. This is best done in your local bike shop – which should be able to help you with your fitting questions.
1. Compare your own foot template to the shoe shape, and see how well the two shapes match.
If you’ve got a very Egyptian foot, then it might not understand why your shoe is talking Greek to it – your first toe may hurt, then there’s cramp and, at worst, you could end up with a bunion forming. Nasty.
Should yours be a Peasant’s foot, then you’ll usually need shoes with a wider toe-box area.
2. Now feel inside the shoe along the ‘last’, where your arch will sit – is it curved or does it feel very flat?
If you have a Cavus foot, then a curved last is more likely to hold you in your normal posture when you’re pushing hard on the pedals and lower your likelihood of arch pains.
If you have a Planus foot, then a curved last will cause arch pain, while a flat or semi-curved last is more likely to be comfortable.
The average Rectus foots are well provided for, as an increasing majority of manufacturers produce semi-curved lasts.
What to consider in the final fit
It’s best to try on shoes later in the day, when your feet are slightly more swollen and bigger. There are lots of different closure systems available nowadays. Ideally, the uppermost of the straps should be ratchet-closed to allow micro-adjustment of tension.
Heel area: Any system, such as the ‘Pulling power’ heel-fit system, which pulls the heel cup area tight at the same time is ideal. Some people complain that certain cycling shoes are too tight around the heel. However, within reason the tighter the heel-fit the better; any movement in this area is bad news in a performance cycling shoe.
Toe area: Your toes should never feel crammed in, and don’t expect any significant amount of stretch to occur when wearing to make the toe-box more comfortable.
Ball of foot: If you’re going to be putting all your efforts through the ball of your foot, make sure that it’s held securely yet does not feel squeezed – otherwise you’re asking for trouble.
With that in mind, make sure you rock forward on the ball of your foot when testing for forefoot comfort. Squat down multiple times with your weight bearing on the pedal area – and don’t be afraid to do so over 10 or 15 minutes to ensure a comfy fit.
If you’re still unsure, any good store should allow you to exchange the shoes having tried them out on your turbo trainer at home for a half hour or so (make sure you don’t get them sweaty!).
If you think about how much work your feet will be doing in these shoes, when compared to any other shoes that you own, you’ll realise that a happy rider depends on happy feet – so it makes perfect sense to let your feet do the talking.
Other relevant considerations for shoe purchase
Foot size matters: Some people recommend choosing cycling shoes that are quite tight, so that you can then let your feet stretch the shoe to shape it. Although leather uppers will give a little, a tight shoe will only be well tolerated if you ride shorter distances.
If you tour or cycle sportives, then the lack of movement in your foot, allied to intense exercise, can cause a pooling of blood and swelling of your feet – at worst producing searing pain and ruining your day.
Your comfortable casual shoe size will usually coincide with your best cycling shoe size, but as a rule of thumb you should leave approximatley 1½ -2cm between your foremost toe and the end of the shoe to avoid problems. Pulling power: If you're a particularly powerful rider there are a few special considerations you should make.
Firstly, the rigidity of the shoe is even more important for you, as you’re likely to test it more than the average rider.
Secondly – and this goes for anyone who stomps out of the saddle a lot – a very tight and secure heel-fit will enable you to pull up harder on the pedals during your sprint efforts.
Female and slender feet
Women often struggle to find shoes to fit their more slender foot type. But they’re not alone – many men struggle to find the right shoes for just the same reason.
Good news. The past five years has seen the women’s apparel market boom, and manufacturers are meeting this with an increased range of choices.
Some women’s products are just pink versions of the men’s, and this is obvious when you put them side by side. Specialized does a women-specific shoe – which is slender in both the heel and forefoot area. It and other more slender women-specific options should also be considered by men who are having the same kind of shoe fitting problems.
Although it remains to be seen whether or not the Shimano custom-fit footwear really establishes its niche, it cannot be denied that they offer a viable alternative for those who struggle to find a comfortable fit.
Shimano has always provided a good selection of do-it-all shoes, and the addition of its heat and vacuum-aided shoe fit will especially suit those with long and narrow feet.
What is the difference between slip-lasted or board-lasted?
When making the inside ‘last’ section of a shoe, there are two main technologies. You should be able to remove the insole from any shoe to expose this.
The slip-lasted method involves sewing the upper together down the midline of the inside of the shoe.
This is cheaper and tends to create a more rounded profile to the inside of the shoe, and is often more flexible. They do provide a snug fit around the heel, but using special insoles is generally a bad idea in these shoes.
The more traditional board-lasted shoes, on the other hand, have a separate ‘board’ along the base, and are sewn around the sides of the sole. They have a more box-section appearance that’s generally more stable and better accommodates custom orthoses and other in-shoe modifications such as heel lifts.
If you have orthotic insoles or use heel-lifts, you should look for board-lasted shoes.
How light is too light?
A pair of casual commuter shoes can weigh well over 2kg per pair. Some of Rocket7’s latest custom carbon fibre shoes tip the scales at under 180g, but most shoes weigh somewhere in between.
If you’re training in the UK, racing criterium or even UK sportives, then the stiffness of the shoe should be more important than the weight.
If eyeing up more grand sportives on the continent or racing stage races at an elite level, you may benefit from going a shade under the 320g holy grail of footwear, but with current technology, lighter shoes simply aren’t stiff enough for serious performance, and hence might waste some of your highly tuned efforts.
Knowing when it’s time to retire your shoes
Unlike running shoes whose soles will let you know, it’s a little more difficult to know when a pair of cycling shoes are past their ‘best before’ date.
Training shoes, with regular cleat replacements, should last many years before the wear and abuse has them splitting at the seams – so when they no longer tighten snugly and become loose when you accelerate, it’s finally time to say goodbye.
These older shoes can often use a winter turbo trainer as their nursing home, where spinning technique is preferred over sprinting power, and they can give continued use.
Racing shoes, however, should be rigid and supportive in order to optimise performance. Their cleats should never be allowed to wear thin – this endangers you and your fellow competitors.
Carbon fibre soles resist fatigue and so offer continued performance for many years. Any racing shoe that can be significantly flexed by a pair of impolite hands is probably no longer up to the job and should be demoted to training use.
So before buying your next pair of shoes, spend a little time not just looking at the marketing bumpf and the colour options, but listening to the poor soles who will have to live in them… your feet.
SHIMANO DURA-ACE 7900This article will discuss the Shimano® Dura-Ace 7900 components. The group is lighter then previous editions through changes in design features and the use of aluminum and titanium fasteners. These materials do not pull up and feel the same as traditional steel fasteners. When possible, use a torque wrench. The basic service features and adjustments are similar to previous Dura-Ace editions.
The rear derailleur is reading 170 grams on the DS-2 table top scale.
CRANKSET
The chainring bolt heads face inside, toward the frame (Figure 1 and Figure 2). The bolts use a 12-point star-shaped fitting known as Torx®, in the T30 size. Use a wrench such as the Park Tool PH-T30 (part of the PH-T1 set). (Torx® is a registered trademark of Acument Intellectual Property, LLC.)
Figure 1. Bolt heads are on the inside of the spider arm
There are no separate chainring nuts. The outer ring is hollow and is manufactured with internal threads for the chainring bolts. When chainrings are replaced, secure chain ring bolts to 12Nm.
Figure 2. Internal threads are part of the outer chainring
The Dura-Ace uses the Hollowtech II system. The threaded bottom bracket bearings are installed into the shell. It is important the shell faces be parallel. If necessary, the faces should be faced (Figure 3).
Figure 3. The aluminum shell of this carbon frame allows for facing with the BFS-1
The crank is a Hollow Tech II system. When installing the left crank, secure each crank bolt to 12-14 Nm (106-122 in lbs). Alternate between each bolt, pulling up each bolt back and forth. Each bolt should be confirmed to be at full torque twice with a torque wrench such as the Park Tool TW-5. A "click-type" torque wrench will click immediately on one bolt, and then click on the other bolt (Figure 4).
Figure 4. Secure the pinch slot by working bolts back and forth
Derailleur service and overhaul features are the same as previous models. However, there are titanium fasteners to lighten the derailleur (Figure 5-7). Again, when unfamiliar with a material, use a torque wrench whenever possible.
Figure 5. Lower cage pivot and pulleys. Pulley bolts are aluminum and cage is carbon fiber.
Figure 6. A-carbon fiber cage. B-hole drilled for weight saving in cage pivot. C-titanium pivot bolt.
Figure 7. Even the cable pinch bolt is drilled to save weight. Pinch plate has two tabs to ensure proper cable orientation.
Figure 8. Front derailleur mounting bolt is titanium, use a torque wrench to achieve correct load on fastener
SHIFT/BRAKE LEVERS
The brake levers secure to the handlebar with a strap system similar to other levers. Use strap hex fitting on top of the lever body. Pull rubber cover back to expose fitting for 5mm hex wrench (Figure 9).
Figure 9. Secure brake lever to handlebar
The brake cable installs through the front of the levers. Remove the nameplate screw and nameplate (Figure 10 and 11). The plate pulls away forward. Use care not to scar the exterior of the plate.
Figure 10. Remove nameplate screw Figure 11. Pull nameplate forward from top
There is a reach adjustment screw behind the nameplate, adjacent to the cable hole (Figure 12). This screw turns a stud that will rotate the lever down and closer to the bars (Figure 13).
Figure 12. Location of reach adjustment screw Figure 13. The lever position range from fully
open to fully tightened position screw
The cable access hole is the inner hole at the lever. As seen from the front, it is the left most hole for front shift lever, and the right most hole of the rear shift lever (Figure 14).
Figure 14. Rear shift lever with brake cable fed through lever and body
Shift cable feeds from underneath the lever (Figure 15). Pull rubber cover forward to expose cable access hole on the outer edge of each lever. Shift small lever several times to move the cable anchor socket to the correct position.
Figure 15. Shift cable installs from under the lever body
Feed cable end through cable anchor and out the top of the lever. Shift cable exit has two options. The option to the outer groove routes the shift housing to the backside of the handlebars (Option "A" in Figure 16). The other option routes shift housing to the front side of the handlebar (Option "B" in Figure 16). The brake cable exits from the inner hole and brake housing must be routed to the front side of the handlebar. The routing option to the backside of the handlebar ("A") has less of a bend at the lever.
Figure 16. The two shift cable routing options. The thicker brake wire is routed from the brake hole.
It is recommended by Shimano that an aluminum end cap be used rather then a plastic end cap for the shift housing (Figure 17). The end cap will be subjected hand pressure while the cyclist is riding "on the hoods." The aluminum end cap must fit easily into the lever body, do not force and end cap into place. The single strand brake housing does not use an end cap.
Figure 17. Brake housing and shift housing in place
Use strong tape to hold the housing before the handlebars are wrapped. Route housing to appropriate stops. There are in some situations two routing options. Traditionally, the rear shifter is routed to the right housing stop
(Figure 18). This may lead to more severe bends in housing. In some situations it may help to "cross over" the shift housing (Figure 19). Do not cross if cable wire results in rubbing the frame tube between bottom bracket guide and housing stops.
Figure 18. Rear shift housing is routed to right housing stop. Note bend of rear shift housing at headtube. The shift housing is also rubbing on headtube.
Figure 19. Front shift housing is routed to right cable housing stop, and rear shift housing is routed to left stop. Housing makes single, smooth arc as it approaches stop. There is no rubbing of housing on the headtube. Cables must then cross back below downtube to reach appropriate routing at bottom bracket cable guide.
CHAIN
The chain length is determined the same as other derailleur chains. The chain is not symmetrical, and must be installed only one direction. Route the chain so the connection rivet is in the left side of the outer plate when viewed on the lower section of chain, between lower pulley and lower section of the rings. This will insure the connection rivet will contact the cogs first as it wraps to the cassette. There is a correct inside and outside of the chain (Figure 20).
Figure 20. Press connection rivet into left side of outer plate as seen on lower section of chain
The chain is clearly stamped with the model number on one side. This should face outward, away from the spokes and toward the mechanic (Figure 21). The plates facing inside have no lettering or text marking.
Figure 21. Of the two rivets in an outer plate, the connection rivet should be the first rivet to contact the cassette cog. Note stamping on chain facing outward.
BRAKES
The brakes are dual pivot brakes and are adjusted and serviced as other dual pivot brakes. However, there are Torx® fittings used to secure pivot adjustments on caliper arms (Figure 22). These are titanium bolts, and use of a torque wrench is recommended. (Torx® is a registered trademark of Acument Intellectual Property, LLC.)
Figure 22. T-25 titanium bolt as pivot of caliper arm
As manufacturers release new groups and components, there are often new features that require new service procedures. This will be the first in a series of articles discussing the newer component groups available from various manufacturers.
The article below will discuss the service and installation features of the following Campagnolo® Record components.
CRANKSET
The crankset system is an external bearing system. The bottom bracket bearing are mounted to the crank spindle direclty. The cups contain no bearings. The bearings are inserted into the cups as the arms are installed. Each arm has one-half of the spindle or axle, and has a "geared" fitting that mates with the opposite arm (Figure 1 and Figure 2).
Figure 1 Figure 2
Campagnolo® recommended torque is 310 inch pounds for cups each side. With a hand wrench such as the BBT-9 held approximately six inches from the center of the bearing, apply an effort of at least 50 pounds force (Figure 3).
Figure 3
There is a "wavy washer" in the left side cup (Figure 4). This washer is used to account for variations in frame shell widths. For the common "English" or BSC shell the width acceptable width is from 67.2 to 68.8mm. The wavy washer is in effect the "bearing adjustment."
Install both arms and align. Mounting bolt install through the right side axle center. Use a 10mm hex bit on an extension. Recommended toque is 371 inch pounds (Figure 5).
Figure 5
There is a retaining clip that is installed on the right side cup (Figure 6). Install clip using needle nose pliers after arms are installed. Remove the clip before attempting to remove the cranks. No crank puller is used for removal. Loosen and remove the crank bolt. Pull each arm to from cups.
Figure 6
LEVERS
The lever mounting bolt is accessed by pulling the rubber cover forward from the back (Figure 7). Use a 5mm hex wrench such as the AWS-1 to secure lever.
Figure 7
Shift wires install from the underneath the lever body. Pull cover back on lower portion of lever to expose wire entry and exit holes (Figure 8).
Brake wires feed threw the top of the brake lever. Pull back on the lever and look for the cable anchor pivot (Figure 9). The wire and housing will exist the back of the lever on the inner face.
Figure 9
Secure both brake and shift housing to bar before before wrapping bars (Figure 10).
The rear derailleur mounts to the frame using a 5mm hex wrench. Campagnolo® recommend torque is 132 inch pounds. The shift wire routes through the barrel adjuster and under the pinch bolt washer (Figure 11). As in any derailleur, inspect for a grove that will hold the wire. Campagnolo® recommended torque for the wire pinch bolt is 53 inch-pounds.
Figure 11
The Campagnolo® derailleur uses a spring in both the lower and the upper pivots. These springs oppose one another in tension. The "B screw" (body screw) adjustment is made at the lower pivot spring (Figure 12). The lower spring uses a "rack and pinion" system to increase or decrease spring tension. Turning the screw clockwise increase lower spring tension. limit screws use a #2 Phillips screwdriver, such as the SD-2 (Figure 13).
The Campagnolo® rear derailleur is fully serviceable (Figure 14). There are also two spring tension options in the upper pivot spring.
Figure 14
FRONT DERAILLEUR
The front derailleur mounts and adjusts similar to other derailleurs. Route the shift wire under the grove at the pinch bolt (Figure 15).
Figure 15
CHAIN
The Campagnolo® 10-speed chain length is set similar to other systems. The chain closes with a special rivet. When sizing the chain, do not cut the section with original outer plate. Cut the end with the inner plate. Normal service is to clean the chain in place on the bike and replace a new chain and special rivet.
When pressing the special rivet in place, drive the rivet from the inside. The chain tool handle should be away from the mechanic, or toward the spokes of the rear wheel. The special rivet should drive toward the mechanic as you face the right side of the bike (Figure 17). Center the rivet exactly between the two outer plates.
Figure 17
CASSETTE
The cassette cogs will install similar to other makes. The lockring uses the BBT-5 cassette/bottom bracket tool. The cassette cogs are made with a notched spline that will mate at only one place in the freehub body (Figure 18).
Figure 18
The Campagnolo® cassette cogs are made with "shifting ramps" in the cogs. The chain will ride up these ramps while shifting to the next cog inboard (Figure 19).
The Campagnolo® Record caliper brakes uses a dual pivot design for the front caliper, and a side pull design for the rear caliper . Front calipers may be centered with a centering flat on the brake mount stud (Figure 20).
Figure 20
Like any caliper, play may develop in the caliper arms. Calipers must be removed from the bike to adjust pivots. Hold brake mounting bolt using a vise and soft jaws, such as the AV-4. For the rear caliper, use wrenches on the flats of the two mounting bolt nuts (Figure 21). Loosen outer nut and make small adjustments to inner nut. Secure outer nut against inner nut and check adjustment.
The side pull caliper has setscrews in both arms to adjust spring tension (Figure 22). Tension can be changed for feel or as an option to center the brake pads. One side of the front dual pivot caliper uses a setscrew. The dual caliper setscrew can be used to center the brake, or to increase spring tension.
Figure 22
HEADSET
Campagnolo® offers a integrated headset design called Hiddenset (Figure 23). The Hiddenset and the IS integrated headsets do not interchange.
Keeping the hub disc side up, count another seven holes clockwise from the spoke in the drive side flange. (Bikeradar)
Wheel building is considered
Wheel building is considered something of a dark art, so we’re breaking it down into two parts: lacing them, then tensioning and truing them. Follow our step-by-step guide and you’ll throw yours together in a snap…
Time: 30-60 mins Cost: rims, hubs, spokes
Tools you'll need Spoke key Medium flat blade screwdriver
Your first job is to get the right length spokes handy. Measuring at home is impossible, so it’s best to drop into your local shop with your rims and hubs to ask them to measure them for you. Alternatively, you can go to www.dtswiss.com and use the spoke calculator to work it out. Separate the spokes out into four clearly marked containers – front disc side, front non-disc side, rear disc side and rear drive side.
2] Assemble the rear wheel
Holding the rear hub so it hangs vertically, drop a disc side spoke downwards into the disc side flange. Now sight the first hole on the drive side flange that’s counter clockwise from where the other spoke is, dropping a drive side spoke downwards into it. Get your rear rim and place it nearby – you’ll need it for the next step.
Holding the hub disc side up and the rim horizontal, separate the spokes and insert the disc side spoke into the eyelet on the rim that’s next to the valve hole (counter-clockwise). Now place the other spoke into the eyelet directly counter clockwise (heading away from the valve hole) to the first one. Thread the nipples on a couple of turns to hold it all in place.
4] Threading by numbers
With the hub disc side up, count seven holes clockwise from the spoke in the disc side flange and insert a new spoke up through that seventh hole. Insert the spoke into the rim two eyelets clockwise from the valve hole. Screw a nipple on a couple of threads as before.
5] Game, offset and match
Keeping the hub disc side up, count another seven holes clockwise from the spoke in the drive side flange (it should be slightly offset from the disc side spoke you inserted in step 4). Insert a spoke up through that seventh hole and then place the spoke into the open eyelet on the rim found next to the valve hole. Screw a nipple on a couple of threads.
6] Hot crossed spokes
With the hub still disc side up, thread another spoke downwards through the hole two spaces clockwise from the one already downwards in the hub (see step 2). Put the spoke into the rim four eyelets clockwise from the valve hole, lacing it over the spoke it crosses. Screw a nipple on and repeat this (apart from the spoke crossing) around the wheel. Each spoke should go in the fourth eyelet clockwise from the previous one.
7] Finish the side
Complete this side of the wheel by inserting a spoke up through the flange two holes counter clockwise from the one already upwards (see step 4) in the hub. Put the spoke into the rim three eyelets counter-clockwise from the valve hole, lacing over the first two spokes and under the third. Screw a nipple on and then duplicate this around the wheel with each spoke going into the fourth eyelet counter clockwise from the previous one.
8] Assemble the drive side
With the disc side down, repeat steps 6 and 7. As you assemble the drive side you may need to flex already fixed spokes out of the way, or tweak the ones you’re putting in, to get new spokes them past successfully. When you’re finished, put the rear wheel to one side without tightening the nipples.
9] The front wheel
Get the font wheel hub and, holding it vertically, drop a disc side spoke downwards into the disc side flange of the hub. Sight the first hole counter clockwise in the flange on the other side from where the first spoke fell, then insert a non-disc side spoke upwards through it. Place the rim nearby, you’ll need it for the next step.
10] Get lacing
Holding the hub disc side up and the rim horizontal, separate the spokes and insert the one in the disc side into the eyelet next to, and counter clockwise from, the valve hole. Then place the non-disc side spoke into the hole directly counter clockwise to that one. Thread the nipples on a couple of turns.
11] Lucky seven
With the hub disc side up, count seven holes clockwise from the spoke in the disc side flange, then insert a spoke up through that seventh hole. Insert the spoke into the rim in the second eyelet clockwise from the valve hole. Screw a nipple on a couple of threads.
12] Count clockwise
With the hub disc side up, count another seven holes clockwise from the spoke in the non-disc side flange and then insert a spoke downwards through that seventh hole. Insert the spoke into the rim in the eyelet that’s just clockwise from the valve hole. Screw a nipple on a couple of threads.
13] Repeat around the wheel
With the hub disc side up, put a spoke downwards in the hole two spaces clockwise from the one already downwards (see step 12) in the hub. Put the spoke into the rim four eyelets clockwise from the valve hole, lacing it over the spoke it crosses. Screw a nipple on and repeat this (apart from the spoke crossing) around the wheel. Each spoke should fit into the fourth eyelet clockwise from the previous one.
14] Complete the side
Complete this side of the wheel by inserting a spoke up through the flange two holes counter clockwise from the one already upwards in the hub. Put the spoke into the rim three eyelets counter clockwise from the valve hole, lacing over the first two spokes and under the third. Screw a nipple on and duplicate this around the wheel with each spoke going into the fourth eyelet counter clockwise from the previous one.
15] Disc side down
With the hub disc side down, put a spoke in downwards, two holes counter clockwise from the one already downwards in the hub. Put the spoke into the rim three eyelets counter-clockwise, lacing it over the spoke it crosses. Screw a nipple on a couple of threads. Repeat this (apart from the spoke crossing) around the wheel with each spoke going into the fourth eyelet clockwise from the previous one.
16] Finish the job
Complete this side of the wheel by inserting a spoke up through the flange two holes clockwise from the one already upwards in the hub. Put the spoke into the rim four eyelets clockwise from the valve hole, lacing over two spokes and under a third. Screw a nipple on. Duplicate this around the wheel with each spoke going into the fourth eyelet counter clockwise from the one previous.
Workshop Wisdom To stop your spoke nipples dropping into a deep section rim, thread them backwards onto a spare spoke
then feed them through into the rim. Lacing wheels is just following a process, so the only skill is to be extremely methodical. It’s most
important to not mix up the different lengths of spoke. Before you take each spoke from its relevant container, double check where it’s going on the hub.
Place the spoke nipples in a small container (an aerosol lid will do) and add a couple of drops of a good, thick oil (such as 3-in-1). Give them a good mix around then fish them out as needed. This lubricates the nipples so they turn more easily in the eyelets when you come to add tension.
