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TEXTILE TESTINGAn Independent

LABORATORY

Shirley: an Internationally Renowned IndependentTextile Testing Laboratory

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With a history dating back almost 100 years Shirley hasmade a huge contribution to the development of andthe testing of textiles, and its world-wide reputation forexcellence and reliability is well deserved.

Shirley and BTTG

The Shirley Institute was founded in 1919, and in 1988 itwas merged with the Wool Industry Research Associationto form the British Textile Technology Group. TodayShirley works alongside BTTG as part of the samegroup of companies.

BTTG concentrates on the provision of testing, certificationand auditing services to the personal protectiveequipment, and construction products markets, whileShirley maintains a focus on apparel.

As a result of this long established presence, we areable to provide competitive, independent textile testing,certification, advisory and investigation services acrossboth the traditional and specialist global textile industriesin the international market. With our ability to call onthe experience of our dedicated and expert staff,Shirley provides first class technical support to thetextile industry.

A Global Network Of Clients

The Shirley client base consists of suppliers to thetextile apparel sector and includes large multinationalfibre, yarn and fabric processors, finished productmanufacturers, garment manufacturers, high streetretailers, consumers, the legal profession, the police,and regulatory testing organisations such as the localauthority Trading Standards departments.

Shirley is active across the world, providing testingand certification services to many overseas producersincluding companies throughout Asia, the Americasand Europe.

We have two laboratories in the UK, one in Leeds andthe other in Manchester. Our offices are located inBangladesh, China, India, Kenya, Pakistan, Singapore,Vietnam and the UK.

The staff responsible for the services offered by Shirleyhave over 245 years of combined experience to drawupon. Many of these staff have a close involvement inthe development of test methods and performancespecifications. Our staff sit on over 40 separatestandards committees, working groups and panelsand in many cases take on the role of UK Expert, Chairor Convenor.

UKAS Accredited Laboratory Testing

Shirley works under ISO/IEC 17025 accreditation. Ourtesting services are accredited by the United KingdomAccreditation Service (UKAS) and through them by theInternational Laboratory Co-operation Scheme (ILAC)Mutual Recognition Arrangement (MRA) thus ensuringclient confidence throughout the World.

t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610

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Physical and Chemical Textile Testing

Shirley specialise in testing apparel in the form of garments,fabric, yarns and fibres. Our scope of testing includesEuropean (EN), British (BS), International (ISO),Australian and New Zealand (AS/NZS), Canadian andAmerican (ANSI, ASTM, AATCC) standards.

Our laboratories perform industry standard physical andchemical tests on textiles and textile-related productsaccording to the strict principles of EN ISO 17025. Ourlaboratories are accredited by UKAS for each individualtest featured on our Schedule of Accreditation. In addition,the opinions and interpretations of test results offeredby our experts are similarly accredited, thereby ensuringthe quality of our technical support.

Our staff have a close involvement in the developmentof test methods and our work is verified by participatingin regular interlaboratory trials.

Did you know? The Martindale Abrasion tester wasdevised at WIRA by Dr J G Martindale. Its original usewas for testing carbon-impregnated cloth that was tobe used in connection with protection against gasattack during the Second World War.

Shirley routinely offer the following tests:

· Physical tests on fibres including fineness, length, crimp and strength;· Physical tests on yarns including count, strength, twist and levelness;· Construction, structure and product characteristics of fabrics;· Physical tests on fabrics including strength, tear resistance, thickness and mass;· Wear tests on fabrics including Martindale abrasion and resistance to pilling;· Dimensional stability and durability of fabrics;· Colour fastness of textiles;· Phenolic yellowing of optically brightened textiles;· Fibre composition analysis;· Optical microscopy for fibre identification, and· Measurement of chemical properties, for example, determination of pH, and conductivity

Other standard tests and non-standard test methodologiesare available and tests can be designed for clients withproducts which have specific functional properties.

Our experts will be more than happy to discuss a specifictesting regime for any product or performance propertywhich may not fit within standard guidelines.

e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk

Analytical Chemistry Testing

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Textile ecology can be generally categorised into fourareas - production ecology, performance ecology,disposal ecology and human ecology. The first threecategories relate to the environmental effects of aproduct's lifecycle, whereas human ecology considersthe effects on the user/wearer of the finished product.Shirley can provide testing to a number of analyticaltechniques in this latter category.

Shirley can offer specific testing and evaluation, to suitthe requirements of the client, which address thetoxicological properties of textiles and related productsthrough the presence of harmful substances. Ourknowledgeable team of experts can also advise ontesting requirements to ensure that your products arefully compliant with current EC legislation relating totextile ecology.

Our state-of-the-art instrument laboratory includes thelatest analytical equipment including GC/MS/MS,HPLC/MS/MS, TDU, ICP-MS, UV-Vis, FTIR and DSC.

Amongst a wide range of other compounds we regularlytest for:

· Organotin compounds;· Toxic heavy metal screening;· PCP (pentachlorophenol) and other phenols;· Banned azo dyes (aromatic amines);· Allergenic disperse dyestuffs;· Free, hydrolysed and released formaldehyde;· Nickel testing to the Nickel Directive; and· Phthalates in plastics and plastisol prints.

Volatile Emissions

Volatile organic compounds (VOC’s) consist of a broadrange of carbon-based chemicals that vaporise atroom temperature, and when in air predominantly existin the vapour phase. VOC’s contained in products tendto diffuse to the surface and are emitted into the airover time. When these emissions occur indoors, buildingoccupants are exposed via inhalation. VOC’s of potentialconcern include formaldehyde, chronic systemic toxinssuch as toluene, styrene, phenol, and naphthalene,carcinogens, mutagens, and teratogens, sensory irritantsand odorants.

Shirley can perform a range of test methods for testingVOC’s in products such as floor coverings, mattresses,curtains, foams, automotive interiors and other textiles.

Principle - Samples are tested in an emission chamberunder controlled conditions. A measured volume ofsample air is collected from the emission test chamberby drawing through sorbent tubes containing Tenaxsorbent. Volatile organic compounds are retained bythe sorbent tubes and the compounds are subsequentlyanalysed by thermal desorption gas chromatographywith mass selective detection (TD-GC/MS).

Requirements for VOC’s are listed in current Internationalstandards and also in the Oeko-Tex® Standard 100test methods.

t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610

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Skin Irritation Propensity Of Textiles

Shirley’s technical experts offer an extractable matterscreening assessment of textile apparel and soft furnishingsin cases where skin irritation by contact issues arereported. Devised in partnership with leading highstreet retailers, this assessment identifies the potentialpresence of residual substances on textiles which maygive rise to irritation. Once identified, these substancescan be further investigated by more in-depth analysisto assess whether a processing issue exists.

Restricted Chemical Substances On Textile Soft Toys

The current EU Toy Safety Directive (2009/48/EC)specifies a number of significant changes to safetyrequirements of toys compared to the previous version.As well as changes to requirements for physical andmechanical properties, flammability properties anddocumentation, this revision strengthens the requirementsfor chemical properties. The four year transitional periodfor adoption of the new Directive has now passed andso this version is now the legal document covering toysafety in the UK.

Shirley’s analytical chemistry capability includes thefollowing tests to the current EU Toy Safety Directive.

Soluble metal elements (toxicity)Testing of textile soft toys and their components toEN 71 Part 3. The latest version of this method hasexpanded the requirements for restricted soluble metalelements in soft toys from the original eight metals tothe current nineteen metals and compounds. The toycomponent is extracted in simulated stomach acidsolvent and the extract liquor quantified for metalelements using ICP-MS equipment, against ratifiedand calibrated standards.

Organic chemical compoundsTesting of textile soft toys and their components to EN 71Part 9, assessing the presence of the organic chemicalcompounds listed in Table 1 of the standard. Samplesare prepared as in Part 10 of EN 71 and analysed andquantified using methodologies as in Part 11.

e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk

Microbiological Testing Services

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Shirley offer a wide range of microbiological testing torecognised global standards for textile and polymericproducts. Shirley are involved in microbiological testingat all stages of product development and are committedto the specialist needs of clients in terms of researchand development and technical support.

The Shirley laboratory holds accreditation to ISO17025 for a large proportion of our microbiologicaltests so clients can be assured of the high qualityrequired for work of this technical nature.

Antibacterial Evaluation & Testing

Shirley offer tests to assess the efficacy and durability ofantibacterial textiles and polymeric products treated withantibacterial finishes or that have inherent antibacterialproperties. Products tested range from household textiles,intimate apparel, sportswear, bedding, carpets, plasticsand rubber products. Testing methods comprise:

• Qualitative assessment establishing the presence of an antibacterial function. • Quantitative assessment to measure the effectiveness of the antibacterial product.

Antifungal Evaluation & Testing

Microfungi can cause deterioration of a product in termsof performance loss, structural degradation and loss ofappearance and aesthetics. Shirley’s testing facilities offervarious evaluation methods of the effect of microfungi ontextiles and polymeric products. Products tested rangefrom household textiles, leather, plastic or rubberproducts, sandbags, tents, tarpaulins, shoe linings,carpets, geotextiles and electrical components.

Assessment can be a combination of visual assessment,zone measurement and tensile strength measurements.Testing methods comprise:

• Mildew and rot susceptibility,• Soil burial testing, and • Antifungal activity of hygienic finishes.

Additional Testing

In addition to the above we are able to offer microbiologicaltests in respect of:

• Resistance of medical protective clothing to penetration of blood-borne pathogens, and to both wet and dry bacteria;• Sterility and bioburden testing to quantify the level of micro-organisms on products; and • Cleanliness of fillings, stuffing and wadding materials for bedding and soft furnishings

t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610

Degradative Exposures

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It is important that textile and related polymeric productsconform to their proposed function for the whole of theirlikely lifecycle. Any degradative effect of use conditionscan serve to weaken the material, or indeed degrade itso completely so that it loses its function entirely. Thisis a significant issue for materials designed to be in situ forsignificant periods of time. Examples of outdoor textileswould include garden furniture and flexible outdoor structuressuch as marquees, commercial roofing and awnings, andexamples of geotextiles and geotextile-related productswould include banking support infra-structures andlandfill liners.

Weathering & Light Exposure

Shirley offer exposure testing using QUV equipment,which conforms to EN ISO 4892-3 and to a large numberof associated non-UK methods and productspecifications. This testing replicates the degradativeeffect of the ultraviolet portion of the spectrum of naturallight on polymeric materials, often in conjunction withmoisture in the form of condensation or direct waterspray. The testing is normally carried out for one of thefollowing reasons:

• To determine basic performance of new product developments • To estimate the likely lifecycle of products to use conditions • To determine conformance to existing product specifications• To investigate product failure

Other Exposures

In addition to weathering and light exposures, Shirleycan also offer degradative exposure testing of thefollowing types:

• Effect of synthetic leachates on landfill liners;• Effect of immersion in acid, alkali or specified liquids;• Hydrolysis and leaching of geotextiles and similar products;• Oxidation of geotextiles and similar products;• Exposure to elevated conditions of heat and/or humidity

e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk

Technical & Investigative Services

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The technical experts of Shirley offer an exceptionalproblem solving and investigation service combinedwith highly-specialised knowledge in textile-relatedphysical, chemical and analytical testing. Shirley can assistwith the investigation, research, testing and resolution ofany manner of issue, whether relating to productionprocessing or to final product, for example:

• Investigation into consumer product complaints;• Safety assessments of consumer products and compliance to Regulations;• Investigation into material processing complaints;• Identification of physical faults, contaminants, spots and stains;• Formulation or process errors in production and finishing;• Coating, finish and polymer analysis;• Product characterisation;• Fitness for purpose challenges;• Patent infringement;• Police (forensic) investigations and case analysis.

For technical investigations of this type, Shirley will consultwith the client to obtain a detailed background of theissue and obtain suitable documented evidence.Suitable and representative test samples will bediscussed and presented for comprehensive testingand investigation in our accredited laboratories. Oncompletion a detailed technical report will be prepared,containing comments, conclusions, opinions andinterpretations relevant to the resolution of the issue.The process is two-way with complete client involvementat all stages, including follow-up work as necessary.

Expert Witness Services

Shirley has an established track record in providingexpert witness services to a range of clients, includingmanufacturers, suppliers, solicitors, law enforcementand domestic consumers. Our expert witness servicecan be used in a wide range of situations, those listedearlier are the more common examples.

For a number of years, our organisation has providedqualified technical evidence in a range of civil andcriminal cases, including evidence in court, as wellas in relation to business-to-business disputes suchas patent infringement challenges. This service isoften required as a necessary conclusion to a technicalinvestigation, where the Shirley report can often leadto court action for resolution.

Shirley experts are trained using the CUBS schemeoperated by Bond Solon, with regular CPD activitiesand retraining to ensure continued qualification.

Expert Witness InstituteBoth Shirley and Ian Strudwick are members of theExpert Witness Institute (www.ewi.org.uk) and followthe strict code of conduct set by the Institute inproviding this service.

t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610

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Due Diligence

In today's increasingly demanding business climate,manufacturers and retailers must be confident that theirproducts will stand up to the tightest scrutiny not justfrom their competitors, but also from the increasinglydiscerning consumer, who is nowadays more likely tochallenge any purchases which fall below expectations.

Not only must products be "fit for purpose" and complywith the necessary safety and manufacturing legislation,but they should also meet the expectations of the end user,not least in terms of product serviceability and lifetime.The European Directive concerning General ProductSafety now means that the safety of all products has tobe considered before they are placed on the market.

Suppliers should ensure that they have evaluated theirproducts sufficiently to be able to demonstrate, possiblyto a court if challenged, that reasonable “Due Diligence”has been undertaken in terms of testing and to ultimatelybe able to defend the integrity of their products.

Shirley can assist in providing a range of information toassist clients with their consumer product testing in thisarea including:

• Advice on legal compliance;• Independent and objective testing protocols to existing methodologies;• Development of suitable testing protocols for products where none exist;• Durability and ageing studies to determine product serviceability and life-time;• Recommendations for "in-use" conditions.

Bespoke Technical Seminars

Shirley offers a bespoke technical seminar service - ourexpert(s) are made available to the client for a fixedperiod. This involves Shirley’s expert(s) visiting theclient premises to make their knowledge availableto the client’s representatives, as a ‘question andanswer’ session.

Shirley expert(s) will provide as much technicalinformation and as many answers to questions aspossible during the seminar, and will follow upunanswered questions by subsequent research andcommunication.

e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk

REACH SVHCCertification

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REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation andRestriction of Chemicals) is a regulation of the EuropeanUnion on chemicals and their safe use, adopted to improvethe protection of human health and the environmentfrom the risks that can be posed by chemicals. It alsopromotes alternative methods for the hazard assessmentof substances in order to reduce the number of testson animals. REACH replaces numerous EU Directivesrelated to chemicals and is complementary to otherenvironmental and safety legislation but does notreplace sector specific legislation.

REACH directly applies in all member states of theEuropean Union and is policed by the EuropeanChemicals Agency (ECHA).

Substances of Very High Concern (SVHC)These are substances that may have potentially veryserious and often irreversible effects on humans andthe environment.

They have been identified by national competentauthorities, or by ECHA, to be considered forauthorisation by REACH. Such substances go ontothe Candidate List. If the substance is subsequentlyauthorised then it is included in Annex XIV of theREACH regulation. In this case then a supplier will have42-48 months to replace the relevant substance(s) withan alternative. The Candidate List is updated regularlyby the ECHA to provide ongoing assessment.

ObligationsSuppliers of a product containing a substance thatappears on the SVHC list in a concentration above0.1% weight by weight shall provide their customerswith sufficient information to allow safe use of the product.

It is the responsibility of suppliers based in the EU toensure that any textile products, including chemicalsused in their manufacture, whether they have beenproduced outside or within the EU, have been evaluatedto ensure they are REACH compliant.

It is the responsibility of suppliers based outside ofthe European Union to inform EU based purchasersof substances of very high concern within the productsthat are supplied to them.

Shirley’s REACH SVHCCertification Scheme

Shirley is an ISO 17025 laboratory. It is therefore ableto assist textile manufacturers, and companies supplyingproducts and chemicals used in textiles (e.g. detergents,pigments, dyes, plastisols), to determine whether theproducts they are producing contain SVHC, and if theydo, at what levels. The Shirley scheme allows clientsto tell their customers that they have had an independentthird party formal assessment performed to ensure thattheir products are REACH compliant.

The Certificate provided is valid for a period of oneyear, or until the SVHC list is updated to include newsubstances.

t: +44 (0) 161 869 1610

Textile Ecology Certification

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Shirley is the designated UK Institute for the testing andcertification to Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 and associatedcertification schemes.

Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 Certification

Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 is an independent testing andcertification system for textile raw materials, intermediateand end products, from fibres through to finished garments,home textiles and includes accessories such as labels,threads and buttons used on finished products.

The testing carried out under Oeko-Tex® Standard 100includes a range of substances, some are banned orregulated by law, some are known to be harmful tohealth and others are less harmful but are still includedto safeguard health. The Standard 100 aims to go beyondexisting national and international requirements and assuch is continually updated and improved. Oeko-Tex®

testing for harmful substances is always based on theintended use of the textile.

STeP by Oeko-Tex® Certification

STeP by Oeko-Tex® is a certification system issued bythe Oeko-Tex® International Association that includesaudited assessment and testing against criteria andmethods for sustainable, environmentally and sociallyresponsible textile and apparel facilities (production sites).The certification addresses the reduction of hazards andrisks across the entire textile production chain.

STeP allows globally operating brands and retail companiesto search for suitable suppliers worldwide who meettheir demands regarding environmental protection andsocial responsibility to enable them to clearly and completelydocument their sustainability commitment.

MySTeP by Oeko-Tex®

MySTeP by Oeko-Tex® is the central database of Oeko-Tex®

and is an easy to use desktop system designed to enhance

traceability and transparency within the textile supplychain, incentivise continuous improvement and buildmore efficient processes for the future. The database isdesigned for brands, retailers and manufacturers toallow them to manage their own supply chains whetheror not they are Oeko-Tex® certified.

Made In Green by Oeko-Tex®

Certification

Made in Green by Oeko-Tex® is an independent textilelabel for highlighting consumer products and semi-finishedproducts at all levels of the textile chain that are:

• Manufactured from materials tested for harmful substances• Manufactured with environmentally friendly processes• Manufactured under safe and socially responsible working conditions

The Made in Green label is available to registeredcompanies subsequent to proof that the products arefree from harmful substances when tested to Oeko-Tex®

Standard 100. In addition proof is required that theproduction conditions are environmentally friendly andsocially responsible, which is provided through anextensive assessment and company audit in line withSTeP by Oeko-Tex®.

Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex®

Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex® is a verification procedureby which manufacturers of textile processing chemicalsand chemical compounds, such as dyes, performanceadditives, finishing agents, lubricants, detergents, etc.,are able to confirm that their products can be used insustainable textile production. Products that pass aregranted the Eco Passport by Oeko-Tex® certificationwhich indicates that the certified textile chemical is safeto use in Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 certified textile productsand in STeP by Oeko-Tex® certified manufacturing facilities.

e: enquiries@shirleytech.co.uk w: www.shirleytech.co.uk

Shirley (Manchester)Unit 11, Westpoint Enterprise ParkClarence Avenue, Trafford ParkManchester, M17 1QS, UK

T: +44 (0) 161 869 1610E: enquiries@shirleytech.co.ukW: www.shirleytech.co.uk

Registered office:Shirley Technologies LimitedWira House, West Park Ring RoadLeeds, LS16 6QL, UK

Company number:04669651

Overseas offices:Bangladesh, China, India, KenyaPakistan, Singapore and Vietnam

Please refer to our website for detailed location information

Shirley (Leeds)Wira House, West Park Ring RoadLeeds, LS16 6QL, UK

T: +44 (0) 113 259 1999E: enquiries@shirleytech.co.ukW: www.shirleytech.co.uk