STAGE 5: HOW TO TEACH BASIC OBEDIENCE CUES

GoalsList 12 types of dog training equipment you learned about in stage 5.

1. Review of the Food Lure Exercise2. Learn to Teach the Release Cue3. Learn to Teach the Focus Cue4. Learn to Teach the Sit Cue5. Learn to Teach the Sit-Stay Cue6. Learn to Teach the Down Cue7. Learn to Teach the Down-Stay Cue8. Learn to Teach the Recall or Come Cue● Learn to use a Clicker to Teach the Come Cue9. Learn to Teach Loose-Leash Walking10. Learn to Teach the Heel Cue11. Learn to Teach the Leave-it Cue12. Learn to Teach the Fetch Cue

Teaching the Food Lure Exercise● Learning how to use a food lure during training is very important is very important

and can be a vital ingredient to any training plan.● Although the food lure exercise in the Learning Theory section of your text, it is

vital aspect of obedience training and thus bears repeating.

Name 3 things that a food lure exercise teaches a dog1. It teaches the dog to follow a lure, which allows you to guide the dog into almost

any behavior without force.2. It teaches and/or reinforces the meaning of a conditioned reinforcer (“Good” or a

click), which communicates to the dog when she is doing the correct thing.3. It teaches the meaning of the No Reward Marker, which indicates the dog’s

mistakes and does so in a way that motivates the dog to perform the correct behavior, not to become stressed.

TRAINING PROGRAM-● The Training Program should be structured to teach cues in an order that allows

all the prerequisites for that cue to be fulfilled.● As we move on to other obedience cues in this Training Program, you will see that

a basic understanding of some cues may be required before teaching that particular cue.

INTRODUCING THE FOOD LURE

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Name 5 steps to teach the food lure cue1. Begin teaching the food lure exercise in an area where the dog is comfortable and

free from distractions.2. The dog should have a good appetite.3. Have the dog standing close to you.4. Have 100 or so small food treats set aside where you can reach them, but not

where they will be distraction to the dog.5. The food treat should be about the size of a pea for a large-breed dog and even

smaller than that for small-breed dogs.

Increasing the dogs attention level● Using the food lure exercise, begin gradually requiring the dog to keep her nose

attached to your hand for longer periods of time as you move your hand through more complicated movements.

● Eventually, the movements will guide her into positions like sit, down and focus.

Common Problems Encountered When Teaching the Food Lure Exercisethe dog’s nose falls away from my hand

○ Give the No Reward Marker (“No” or “Eh-Eh”) and then turn yourself and the treat away from the dog for a moment.

○ You should notice that ignoring the dog for a second or two after each mistake makes her focus more strongly on you.

○ Start over again, making the exercise easier.

the dog is not interested in my hand or treatIncrease food drive

○ The dog is probably not hungry enough to do this exercise or doesn’t like the treat well enough.

○ You should be sure the dog is hungry before continuing.○ Plan the next training session for at least eight hours after the dog’s last

meal and use tastier treats, like boiled chicken.○ Try reducing the amount of food she is given at mealtimes to increase her

food drive during training.Reduce distractions

● The dog may be too distracted.● Select a less distracting environment to work on this exercise.

the dog is shy and seems to be nervous when I present my hand

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Set the Dog up to Success○ During the first few times, you may only require a timid dog to stretch her

neck out an inch or so before saying “Good” or clicking and giving the treat.

○ When she gains more confidence, you can require her to take a step or two before you say “Good” and give the treat.

the dog is pawing, gnawing or barking at my hand instead of calmly touching her nose to it

Timing is critical ○ It is extremely important that you give your conditioned reinforcer when the

dog has her nose stuck to your slowly moving hand and is not doing any other behaviors (pawing, gnawing, or barking).

○ Give the No Reward Marker (“No” or “Eh-Eh”). and immediately turn away from the dog for a second or two each time she paws, gnaws, or barks.

○ As the dog learns that keeping her nose attached to your baited hand is rewarding, her patience and perseverance will increase and you can require that she follow your longer before you say “Good” and give her the treat.

Prevent over-stimulation● Sometimes if a dog is too hungry or the food treat is too yummy, the dog

may become over-stimulated and too distracted to learn.● If a dog has an extremely high food drive and you are having trouble with

pawing, gnawing, etc., consider using kibble or practicing with the dog shortly after mealtime.

TEACHING THE RELEASE CUE● We have selected the word “OK” as our Release word because it is a cue

commonly used by professional trainers.● When the dog knows she will be rewarded with a treat, a toy, her freedom or other

unconditioned reinforcer for holding a position until released, she will be confident and patient while walking.

RELEASE CUE-● The Release cue is very important in training as it makes the end of a behavior for

both dog and owner.● By marking the end of the exact cue she is waiting to hear before breaking

position.● This will eliminate the possibility of confusion on the dog’s part and will prevent

unnecessary mistakes due to poor communication between dogs and owners.

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Shaping the Release Behavior Using Food Lure Techniques● The Release cue should indicate to the dog that the position she has been holding

is over and that she is free to come to you and receive praise, attention, toys, or treats for a job well done.

● Many professional trainers use the word “OK”; however, some professional trainers will choose a word that is less commonly-used in conversation as their Release cue (such as “Break” or All Done”).

● Any word will work as long as you are consistent.● ABC will use “OK” as the Release cue.

ACCELERATING THE RESPONSE TIME● Go to a quiet area that the dog is comfortable in. Make sure there are no

distractions.● Be sure to equip yourself with grade A, B and C rewards. Remember that the dog

decides what her A, B, and C rewards are.

INTRODUCING CONSEQUENCES OR CORRECTIONS1. If the dog chooses not to respond to the Release cue at all, you should give a No

Reward Marker (“No” or “Eh-Eh”) and administer a negative punishment (i.e., you and your treat pouch abruptly leave the training area).

2. The dog should immediately get up and follow you, trying to figure out a way to get the reward. Do not be a pushover. Do not pet or otherwise reward the dog.

3. Walk back over to the exact same training area and try the cue again. The dog will probably offer a much better performance now.

BEHAVIOR THRESHOLD-The distance where the dog is aware of the distraction but is still able to respond to the Release cue at her current level of proficiency is what ABC calls the behavior threshold.

Randomly Vary the Distance● When working to break down a dog’s behavioral threshold, make sure to

randomly vary the distance between the dog and the distraction while getting closer and closer.

Common Problems Encountered When Teaching the Release CueMy dog is following me around; she won't leave me alone.

○ Make sure your rewards (unconditioned reinforcers) are always kept out

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of sight.○ Ignore the dog until she loses interest in you. This could take as little as

one minute or as much as 20 minutes depending on the temperament of the dog. Be patient and wait for an opportunity to give the Release cue.

My dog just sits there○ The dog may not have enough shaping and reinforcement training to

motivate her to behavior again. Take your time and be patient before moving on to the next training exercise.

○ You may also try the situations outlined for the next common problem.

My dog wanders off; she seems uninterested○ If you are using a food reward, you should be sure the dog is hungry before

continuing. Planning the next training session for at least eight hours after the dog’s last meal and using tastier treats will help increase her food drive. Decreasing the amount of food you feed her at mealtimes may also be helpful.

○ If food still doesn’t work, try another type of reward such as a squeaky toy or petting. These rewards may be more rewarding to this dog than food. Not all dogs are food-motivated and the dog’s preference and drive should be the deciding factor when choosing a reward for training.

○ Be sure that the dog finds the unconditioned reinforcer that you are using rewarding. Dogs will often lose interest in items they have easy access to. To keep a dog’s unconditioned reinforcers valuable, make sure she never has free access to them. The unconditioned reinforcer should only be given as a reward for successfully completing a cue.

○ There may be too many distractions for the dog. This is especially true if you are working in a group class situation. Try moving the dog to the side of class of using more enticing rewards before continuing the exercise.

my dog hesitates when approaching me○ Shy or submissive dogs may need extra encouragement when approaching

you.○ It may be necessary to squat or kneel down to become less intimidating to

these dogs.

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○ Using a more rewarding unconditioned reinforcer may help the dog overcome her shyness.

○ Remember- do not repeat the Release cue in an attempt to coax the dog toward you.

○ Some dogs are hesitant because they are uncertain of what you are asking them to do. These dogs may need positive feedback for making even a small step in the right direction. If you determine this is the case, acknowledge any step, no matter how small, that the dog takes toward you by saying “Good” the instant she takes the step and then rewarding her. Don’t be impatient. The dog will progress at her own speed.

my dog won’t approach me after I say “OK” unless I gesture○ This is a common problem because the dog has determined that the

gesturing is the cue for Release as opposed to the word Ok. This is typically because too much emphasis was put on the gesturing or the gestures were not weaned off quickly enough.

○ Remember, only apply minimal pressure and do not jerk the leash. This technique is meant to guide the dog into the correct behavior. It must not be construed as a punishment by the dog.

my dog rolls on her back when I give the Release cue. ○ Discontinue the exercise and focus on relationship and socialization

exercises for two to three weeks before resuming training.○ See the recommendations for shy or submissive dogs under common

problem - “My dog hesitates when approaching me.”

CONSISTENCY-● Consistency is critical when teaching and maintaining behaviors. ● For example, if you insist that your dog waits to be released only eight out of ten

times, you will get an inconsistent response to this cue. Remember that the dog will only be as consistent as you are!

TONE OF VOICE-The tone of your voice has meaning

1. Praise using a positive, happy tone of voice.2. Cues should be given in a neutral or upbeat tone.3. Verbal Corrections (i.e., No Reward Marker “No”, “Eh-Eh”) should be said in a low,

firm tone of voice.

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OBEDIENCE SHOULD BE FUN-● The easiest way to get off-leash control of a dog is to make obedience a fun and

rewarding experience.● This will help the dog want to be obedient.● Make a list of everything the dog likes (food treats, games, toys, car rides, walks, a

scratch on the chest, etc.)● These “goodies” should not be given for free.● Instead, give your dog an obedience cue before giving her anything she likes.

TEACHING THE FOCUS CUE● People talk almost constantly in their daily routine.● Very little of this conversation is directed at the dog; therefore, the dog learns that

very little of our speech is relevant to her.● Before giving a cue to a dog, you must first have a way of getting her attention.

FOCUS CUE-● The goal of the Focus cue is for the dog to learn that she is rewarded for looking

at and paying attention to you.● Once the dog realizes this, she will gladly give you her attention.● Achieving a strong Focus cue with a dog will allow you to work through

distractions much easier, making training more positive and effective.

Shaping the Focus Behavior Using Food Lure Techniques● Most dogs are comfortable standing, sitting or laying down directly in front of

people because they are accustomed to approaching people.● In contrast, most dogs have not spent much time, if any, laying down, standing, or

sitting at the side of someone.● To begin teaching the focus behavior, the dog needs to be comfortable whether

she is in front of you or at your side.● One way of accomplishing this is to food lure the dog into the heel position.● The heel position is defined as the position in which the dog is sitting beside you

on your left.

Name the 4 steps using food luring into the Heel position1. Put treats in your left hand. With the dog in front of you, begin coaxing the dog to

move to the left of you by extending your baited hand out away from your body.2. If necessary, take a step back with your left leg to get the dog moving. Also,

extend your arm fully to lure the dog far enough away from you to make a full circle.

3. As the dog is completing the circle, continue with your food lure. Make sure you

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know exactly where you want the dog to stop.4. The goal is to stop the dog and lure her into a sitting position when she is directly

beside you. This is what is commonly called the heel position.

Food luring into the focus behavior● Remember to practice the Focus exercise with the dog on your left side (i.e., heel

position) as well as the dog sitting in front of you.● However, spend about 75% of your practice time for this exercise with the dog in

the heel position.● Continue practicing this exercise until the dog will easily lure into the focus

behavior at least 90% of the time in front of you or on your side.● At this point, you can feel confident that she finds this new behavior rewarding

enough to offer it on cue.● Move on to the next training exercise.

Adding the Focus Cue● Stock your pocket/pouch with the dog’s favorite treats or a favorite toy. Do not let

the dog see you do this.● If required, put a buckle collar and six-foot leash on the dog.● Go to a quiet area that the dog is comfortable in. Make sure there are no

distractions.● Continue with this exercise until the dog will Focus on cue and remain focused

until released, without the need of luring or other cues, approximately 90% of the time.

● Move on to the next training exercise.

Introducing distractions to the focus cueStart by teaching the dog that a longer focus means better rewards for her. For example:

● Give the conditioned reinforcer, “Good”, followed by two pieces of steak, a squeaky toy or a belly rub (grade A unconditioned reinforcer) for the best (i.e., quickest) responses.

● Give the conditioned reinforcer followed by a soft dog treat, tennis ball or petting on the back (grade B unconditioned reinforcer) for her better-than-average responses.

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● Give the conditioned reinforcer followed by one piece of kibble, rubber bone or pat on the head (grade C unconditioned reinforcer) for her average responses.

● For the dog’s less-than-average responses, she should only receive verbal praise. Do not give the conditioned reinforcer or the unconditioned reinforcer. The dog will quickly learn which responses “pay” better. Although this example outlines the concept of the grading system, it is just an example. Keep in mind that rewards and speeds will vary from dog to dog.

Common problems encountered when teaching the focus cue1. The dog jumps up in my face to get the reward while being lured.

Solutions ■ Be sure to move your hand quickly as moving it slowly will tend to

draw the dog’s nose up with your hand and she may jump up to get the reward.

■ If you are training a dog who insists on jumping at the reward, use a leash and step on it at a length that allows the dog movements by that allows the dog movement but that doesn’t give her enough room to jump. Continue practicing the exercise for a few days until the leash isn’t needed and the dog has quit jumping.

■ If you are using a food lure on a dog who is on a diet or who is highly food-motivated, she may be extremely persistent about jumping up. Consider less tasty treats such as the dog’s kibble.

2. My dog’s eyes follow the treat; she doesn’t look at me, just the treat.

Solutions■ The dog has not made the correction that eye contact equals

reward. The timing of the conditioned reinforcer may be off. Make sure you are not giving the conditioned reinforcer unless the dog is looking directly into your eyes. The dog must mentally link the conditioned reinforcer to the unconditioned reinforcer.

■ Try putting small pieces of hot dogs in your mouth and the moment the dog looks directly into your eyes, give the conditioned reinforcer (“Good” or click) and spit one out at her (unconditioned reinforcer). You may need to make some kissy-type noises to get the dog to look up toward your face.

Note: Don’t put too many hot dogs in your mouth or you won’t be able to make the noises or give the conditioned reinforcer “Good.”

3. My dog won’t look up; she starts to and then looks somewhere else.Solutions

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■ If you are using a food lure and a food reward you should be sure the dog is hungry before continuing. Planning the next training session for at least eight hours after the dog’s last meal and using tastier treats will help increase her food drive. Decreasing the amount of food you feed her at meal times may also be helpful.

■ If food still doesn’t work, try another type of reward such as a squeaky toy or petting. These rewards may be more rewarding to this dog than food. Not all dogs are food-motivated and the dog’s preference and drive should be the deciding factor when choosing a reward for training.

■ Make sure the reward is not being given to the dog for free during non-training times. The unconditioned reinforcer should only be given as a reward for successfully completing a cue.

■ There may be too many distractions for the dog. This is especially true if you are working in a group class situation. Try moving the dog to the side of class and using more enticing rewards before continuing the exercise.

■ Most dogs, especially small dogs, don’t naturally look above their plane of vision. You will need to teach them to look higher than what is natural for them. This can be done by kneeling beside the dog instead of standing. Once the dog can follow the food lure consistently with you kneeling down, start attempting to stand up while keeping the dog’s eye contact. During the first few tries you may not be able to stand up all the way, so set the dog up to succeed by only standing up half way. Once she is successful when you are standing up half way, then stand up a little farther. Be patient and keep trying until she will make eye contact while you are standing upright. Be sure to reward every improvement so the dog will be encouraged to improve her response to the cue. When you do get a standing position with eye contact, be sure to give extra praise and rewards to signal how much you like this particular response to the cue. The more rewarding the behavior is for the dog, the more often you will see it.

■ Some types of dogs may perceive direct eye contact as threatening behavior. If the dog you are working with is reluctant to make eye contact, she may feel you are challenging her. Depending on the dog’s temperament, the dog may opt to shun you by looking away with a “talk to the hand” type attitude or look away and lower her body posture and head in submission. Either one of these responses could indicate an improper relationship with the dog. Refer to the relationship exercises outlined in Learning Theory to correct this disdainful attitude and see below for addressing submissive behavior.

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4. My dog won’t make direct eye contact; she looks away and sometimes cowers.

Solutions■ Try putting your body in a low, unthreatening posture, similar to

what is outlined above for working with small dogs. This may include kneeling down beside the dog and sitting sideways to the dog with just your head turned toward her. While doing the exercise, praise the dog for any movement of the eyes toward your face. To build the dog’s confidence, you should increase the amount of socialization the dog is getting and always set her up succeed in every situation she encounters.

Note: Remember that food can overcome fear, provided the dog is hungry enough and the treat is yummy enough!

■ Eye contact can be interpreted as dominant or challenging behavior and is very difficult for some dogs with low confidence to deal with. These dogs may be so fearful that they can’t Focus in a group class setting at all, no matter what reward is offered for compliance. These dogs should be privately instructed in socialization and relationship exercises before being reintroduced to a group class setting.

Teaching the Sit Cue● Sit is a natural position that dogs assume many times per day.● Because most dogs do this naturally, it is a cue that can be learned quickly.● Since sit is usually easy to learn, it allows early success in training.● This early success in training is essential for the owner and the dog, as it

motivates both to continue training while maintaining a positive attitude.● Some owners may get frustrated or quit if they do not see success in the first

couple of days of training.

SIT-● The goal of the Sit cue is for the dog to learn to put her rear end on the floor and

make eye contact (i.e., Focus) where the cue is given and then hold that position until released.

● The Sit cue is a prerequisite for many other cues and an excellent training tool for treating common behavior problems like jumping.

Shaping the Sit Cue Using Food Lure Techniques● Start by stocking your pocket/pouch with the dog’s favorite treats.● Do not let the dog see you do this.● If required, put a buckle collar and six-foot leather or nylon leash on the dog.● Go to a quiet area that the dog is comfortable in. Make sure there are no

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distractions.

Adding the Focus Behavior to the Sit1. Give the Sit cue.2. Food-lure the dog into the sitting position.3. When the dog’s bottom touches the ground, immediately food lure the dog into

the focus behavior.4. The moment the dog makes direct eye contact, give the conditioned reinforcer

and then immediately Release the dog by giving the Release cue (“OK” or “thank you”).

5. Give the dog an unconditioned reinforcer. Adding the Sit Cue

1. Bait your hand and hold your baited hand to your chest. Do not attempt to lure the dog.

2. Say the dog’s name and “Sit” once. One of two things will happen.

Introducing Distraction to the Sit Cue1. With the dog standing at your left side at the edge of the behavioral threshold, say

the dog’s name and Sit (she should Focus automatically).2. The dog should immediately Sit and make eye contact. Encourage the dog to

remain in the sit position, keeping eye contact for the established average for this dog (i.e., four to five seconds).

3. After four to five seconds, while the dog is still sitting and looking at you, give the conditioned reinforcer followed by the Release cue.

4. Reward this training exercise with an unconditioned reinforcer (food treat, toy, belly rub). Do not forget to use the grading scale when rewarding the behavior and, if necessary, correction for noncompliance.

Common problems encountered when teaching the sit cue 1. My dog will not follow the lure into a Sit; she just backs up or jumps up.

Solutions■ Examine Your Luring Technique.■ Use an Obstacle.■ Prevent Over Stimulation.■ Provide Gentle Assistance.

2. My dog does not sit long enough for me to give the Release cue.Solutions

■ Review Shaping the Focus.■ Reintroduce Focus with Sit.

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3. I say “Sit” and she does not do it until I lure her into position.SolutionsThis happens if the handler gives the Sit cue and begins food luring into dog without any delay. Simply put, food luring the dog into position has become a crutch for this dog.

■ Delay the Food Lure

4. My dog is not paying attention to me when I say “Sit”, is uninterested in training, or just wanders off

Solutions■ Increase Food Drive■ Use Valuable Rewards■ Decrease Distractions■ Use Proper Cueing

VERBAL CUEING-● In all obedience training, giving your verbal cue first teaches the dog to respond

to a verbal cue only, without the need for hand signals.● Rarely is the dog looking at you calmly when you need her to respond to a cue.● Dogs tend to ignore verbal cues in favor of physical cues, so it is important that

the cue word is fully understood to avoid confusion.● Dogs don’t automatically understand English; thus, they tend to pay more

attention to physical cues or body language, which they are more used to, over verbal cues.

● Because of this, it is important to make the verbal cues you want your dog to learn very rewarding.

REWARD-OFFERED BEHAVIOR● Dogs who offer previously-rewarded desirable behaviors without being cued

typically learn faster.● Praise the dog anytime she comes up to you and sits or anytime you approach her

and she sits or just anytime you notice her sitting.● Sitting is a very desirable behavior and the dog should be lavishly rewarded for

doing it.● As the dog learns to sit around humans, you will notice a decrease in jumping.

Real Life Training Exercises● Using the Sit cue in everyday life will help maintain the cue and encourage the

dog to be aware of her owner and the verbal cues her owner wants her to respond.● The following are examples of real-life training exercises that need to be taught to

every dog owner you work with.

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Teaching Greeting Manners Using Sit Cue● Once the dog has a clear understanding of the Sit cue, you can begin using it to

teach proper greeting manners.● Generally speaking, a dog who does a lot of jumping up when greeting people

finds physical contact (i.e., petting) and attention extremely rewarding, and nothing gets more attention than jumping up in someone’s face.

● The goal is to teach this type of dog that sitting when greeting any human is the only way to get the petting and attention (i.e., unconditioned reinforcer) that she wants.

● We will use going into the backyard to see the dog for the first time that day as an example of a typical greeting situation.

● We will also assume that the dog is extremely happy to see you and typically jumps all over you.

Sit and Focus before being fed1. Prepare the dog’s meal.2. While holding the food bowl out of the dog’s reach, ask the dog to Sit. As soon as

she Sits and make eye contact, give the conditioned reinforcer and set the bowl down on the floor.

3. If the dog remains seated and focused on you, Release the dog and allow her to eat her meal. If the dog gets up from the Sit or redirects her focus from you to the food bowl on the floor, give the No Reward Marker (“No”) and immediately pick the food bowl up and begin again.

Sit and Focus at Doorways● Practice this at all doorways that lead in and out of your home, such as the front

door and the back door.● This exercise only works if the dog wants to go through the doorway to get into

the house or wants to go through the doorway to get outside to go for a walk or just to play.

Teaching the Sit-Stay Cue● Developed a reliable Stay cue will give you hands-free control of the dog.● This allows you to open the door for guests, put a leash on the dog for walks or

walk up the stairs in your home without being pushed around by the dog.

SIT-STAY CUE● The Sit-Stay cue instructs the dog to move into the sit position and remain there

until the Release cue is given.

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The Goal of the Sit-Stay cue is for the dog to calmly remain in the sit position while making eye contact and waiting to be released. The dog is required to hold the sit position, even if she wants to move somewhere else.

Improving PerformanceWhen training the Stay cue, it is very important to only change one variable at a time. Most trainers build time first, then distance and finally distractions when training a dog to Stay.

INCREASING THE FOCUS TIME DURING A SIT-STAY● Start by being aware of the average length of time the dog will remain focused in

the Sit-Stay position.● The average is typically 20 to 30 seconds at this stage in training; however, this

can vary greatly from dog to dog.● Knowing this average is critical as you need to make sure you give the

conditioned reinforcer and unconditioned reinforcer before the dog moves out of position.

● When working on increasing the distance between you and the dog, it is important to progress at a pace at which the dog delivers a successful Sit-Stay 90% of the time.

Common problems encountered when teaching the sit-stay cue 1. My dog will not stay; she continuously breaks the Sit-Stay position.

Solutions■ Additional Reinforcement■ Minimize Variables■ Prevent Over-Stimulation■ Eliminate Distractions■ Use Valuable Rewards

2. Every time I step back, the dog follows.

Solutions● Progress very slowly to ensure that the dog is successful.● Give the dog the No Reward Marker (“No”) and take smaller steps. Do not

sneak away from the dog or she may think there is something frightening that you are sneaking away from and that following you may be a good idea. Take small but confident steps when practicing the Stay.

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REAL-LIFE TRAINING EXERCISESThe following are some real-life training exercises for practicing the Sit-Stay.

Sit-stay and focus before feeding1. Prepare the dog’s meal.2. While holding the food bowl out of the dog’s reach, ask the dog to Sit and Stay

(she should Focus automatically).3. If she refuses to Sit or Focus, give the No Reward Marker, set the bowl on the

counter for 10 to 15 seconds, and completely ignore the dog. The dog should try to get your attention to figure out why she didn’t get her food. After 10 to 15 seconds, try the focused Sit-Stay again.

4. As soon as she sits and makes eye contact, give the conditioned reinforcer and slowly begin to set the bowl on the floor. As you are slowly lowering the food bowl toward the ground, the dog should remain focused on you.

5. If the dog remains sitting and focused, place the bowl on the floor, count to two and then Release the dog and allow her to eat (unconditioned reinforcer).

Sit-stay and focus at Doorways1. Go to a door, allowing the dog to follow you.2. Ask the dog to Sit and Stay.3. When she sits and makes eye contact, count to five silently. If she breaks the Sit-

Stay or the Focus, give the No Reward Marker and walk away from the door for 10 to 15 seconds. The dog should try to get your attention to figure out what went wrong. After 10 to 15 seconds, try again.

4. Once she sits and makes eye contact for five seconds, give the conditioned reinforcer. Open the door and let her outside to play, take her for a walk, or take her for a ride in the car (unconditioned reinforcer). Remember that the reward you select must be something the dog really likes.

IMPORTANT NOTE:“Outside” should be a fenced yard that the dog can’t escape from because the dog has not yet been introduced to the Come cue.

Sit-Stay and Focus While Putting the Leash On1. Go get the leash.

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2. Walk up to the dog and ask her to Sit. She should automatically Sit and Focus on you. Ask her to Stay.

3. Slowly begin to bend over and snap the leash to her collar. If she gets up from the sitting position or stops focusing as you begin to bend down, immediately give her the No Reward Marker and stand straight up. Count to three and try again. Don’t be a pushover; continue practicing until the dog will remain seated and focused until released while being leashed.

4. Once she stays seated and focused, snap the leash on her, give the conditioned reinforcer and give her the Release cue.

Sit-Stay and Focus at Doorways On-Leash1. Ask the dog to Sit and Stay while you put her leash on. This is a big distraction for

most dogs because they associate the leash with going for a walk.2. Now go to the front door.3. With empty hands, ask the dog to Sit and Stay.4. When she does, open the door a little bit (about two or three inches).5. If the dog doesn’t remain in the sit position or breaks the focus, close the door

immediately. Continue opening and closing the door until the dog will remain sitting and focused on you until the door is open all the way.

6. Once the dog remains in the sit position and is focused on you, continue to open the door all the way. Count silently to five; give the conditioned reinforcer followed by the Release cue. Immediately take the dog for a walk (unconditioned reinforcer).

Teaching the Down-Stay Cue● The Down-Stay cue instructs the dog to move into the down position and remain

there until the Release cue is given.● Refer to the Sit-Stay training instructions and use the same method for teaching

replacing the sit position with the down position.

Teaching the recall or come cue● Developing a reliable recall or Come cue is extremely important.● It will allow you to prevent injury to your dog and will let you give your dog more

freedom in her life.

COME-The goal of the recall is to have the dog come to you and present the sit and focus behavior directly in front of you each time the Come cue is given, no matter what.

The running come game● The Running Come Game helps to increase excitement in the dog and increase

the speed of the recall.● These two elements will be essential in later exercises when distractions are

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introduced.

Common problems encountered when teaching the sit-stay cue 1. My dog will not give me her attention when I say her name.

Solutions■ Increase Food Drive■ Try Another Reward■ Re-evaluate the Relationship With the Dog

2. My dog will run by or run into me instead of stopping.

Solutions■ Go Back to Kindergarten■ Reduce Distractions■ Decrease the Distance

3. I present my baited hand but she doesn’t touch it.

Solutions■ Eliminate Contaminants

4. I have done all of the training and my dog is just too distracted; she will not come.

Solutions■ Corrections

5. My dog does not move or acts differently whenever I put on the long line.

Solutions■ Try Another Long Line

LONG LINE DESENSITIZATION-● It is very important to allow the dog ample time to be accustomed to dragging a

long line.● If a dog is conscious of the line, she may learn only to come when it is attached to

her collar.

NEGATIVE ASSOCIATIONS-● If you are working with a dog who has already made negative associations to the

Come cue, you should pick a new cue word like “here.”● It is much easier to teach the dog that the new cue, “here,” means come and sit in

front of me.● It is much more difficult and time consuming to redefine the Come cue when the

owner has already taught the dog that Come means: “I’m going to punish you”, “Your fun is over now” or “I’m going to chase you.”

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DO NOT START TEACHING THE RECALL FROM A SIT-STAY POSITION-● Dogs learn to associate cues with the circumstance in which they learn them.● A dog who learns the recall from a Sit-Stay will likely only respond to the cue from

a sit stay position.● Very rarely will a dog be in a Sit-Stay position when you really need her to come to

you.

IMPROVING THE AUTO-SIT● To get the dog to sit straight and close in front of you, experiment with the

position and height of your baited hand.● When you find the proper hand position, one that creates a straight, close sit,

continue to use it.● After the dog is 90% proficient with the automatic sit, you can use a No Reward

Marker and reposition her if she sits crooked.

Doggie Ping-Pong Game● The Doggie Ping-Pong game again adds speed and excitement to the recall.● The more positive reinforcement and fun that can be attached to this cue, the

better the dog will respond.● This exercise is best done with two people before the dog learns to Come to the

target mark and Sit.

Puppy Come Game● After practicing distance and distraction during recall training, you should take

some time and have fun with the Puppy Come Game.● The Puppy Come game takes two people to play.● If you have the slightest indication that the dog either may not come to the person

who ran away or that she may endanger herself by running into traffic, or if she has a history of running away from people, do not play this game.

Hide-and-seek game● The Hide-and-Seek game will help the dog learn that she doesn’t have to see you

to be rewarded for responding to the recall.● This game should only be played after distractions have been introduced and

overcome during recall training.● The Hide-and-Seek Game is very enjoyable for most dogs.

Teaching the Down Cue● The Down cue is used to instruct the dog to lie down in a spot chosen by the

owner or the trainer.

DOWN-● The goal of the Down cue is for the dog to lie down on verbal cue only.

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● Some dogs may be reluctant to assume the down position due to the circumstances of the initial introduction of the cue, lack of motivation or lack of owner compliance to your instructions.

● Never force a dog into position; always treat the underlying condition causing the refusal to comply before continuing with training.

Common problems encountered when teaching the down cue 1. My dog will not follow the lure into a down, her behind comes up or she just stands up.

Solutions■ Check Your Luring Technique■ Increase Food Drive■ Use Valuable Rewards■ Decrease Distractions■ Try Another Approach■ Capture the Behavior

2. The dog pops up as soon as she is down; I cannot get her to stay down, even for one second.

Solutions■ Rapid Treat Delivery■ Treat Placement■ Body Language■ Consistency is Key■ Environmental Factors

3. The dog will only remain down as long as I am bending down with her, If I try to stand up, she pops up too.

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Solutions■ Rapid Treat Delivery

4. I dog growls when I try to food lure her into the down position.

Solutions■ Relationship Exercises■ Capturing the Behavior

5. My dog is uninterested in training. She just wanders off.

Solutions■ Increase Food Drive■ Use Valuable Rewards■ Decrease Distractions

Teaching Loose-Leash Walking or the “Let’s Go” Cue● ABC’s requirements for loose-leash walking or the “Let’s Go” cue are that the

leash be kept loose 100% of the time and that the dog stays on your left side while you walk.

● Keeping the leash loose is the dog’s job, not the owner’s.● The dog is allowed to walk and look around as long as she walks with the leash

loose.● This will be very useful in giving the dog continuous exercise and will also allow

you to avoid you those embarrassing potty stops on the neighbor’s yard or in the street.

● If you require the dog to keep pace and refrain from sniffing, then you can stop in an appropriate place to potty.

● The goal of loose-leash walking is to able to comfortably and easily walk the dog without being pulled.

● Being able to walk the dog without injury to yourself, your dog, or property is extremely important for obvious reasons.

Heel versus Loose-Leash Walking● It is important that the Heel cue is not confused with loose-leash walking.● Loose-leash walking is what we require the dog to do most of the time.● A proper Heel is a difficult exercise for many dogs.● Loose-leash walking is used when the dog can investigate her surroundings

visually without pulling on the leash.

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● Typically you will need a dog to Heel about 5 to 10% of the time during your walk.● During the other 90 to 95% of the time, loose-leash walking will be all that is

needed.

Introducing the Concept of a Loose Leash● The first step is to decide exactly where you want the dog to be when she is loose-

leash walking.● For example, does the owner want the dog to always be on the left side and never

more than two feet away, or is it acceptable for the dog to migrate from left to right during a walk, sniff anything she wants and go all the way to the very end of a six-foot leash provided she isn’t pulling?

● ABC teaches loose-leash walking with the following criteria.● The dog must walk somewhere on the left side of the owner as long as the leash

remains loose.● The dog cannot stop and sniff during loose-leash walking and she should be

walking at the approximate pace of the owner.

Introducing the “Let’s Go” Cue With Food Luring1. Hold the end of the leash and encourage the dog to come to your left side.2. Now, present your hand for the dog to touch. Keeping her nose on your hand, say

the dog’s name and “Let’s Go”, and encourage her to take two or three steps with no tension on the leash (she will stay on your left side because that is where your baited hand is). Give the conditioned reinforcer followed by the unconditioned reinforcer. Give the Release cue and praise lavishly.

● Continue to practice this exercise until the dog can walk without pulling for 10 steps while being lured at a 90% compliance rate.

Weaning the Dog Off the Food Lure● At the point, you will begin to walk the dog without her pulling and without her

being lured.

Proofing Loose-Leash Walking● This exercise is designed as a proofing exercise and will not be necessary to

practice with all dogs.● At this point in training, most dogs will understand what is being asked of them

and will already be offering the correct behavior for a reward.● A small number of dogs may still have a hard time paying attention to you while

on a walk.● This exercise will prove to the dog how necessary it is to be aware of you and the

leash.● Depending on the dog’s temperament, sensitivities and drives, you may use a

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correction collar for this exercise.

Maintaining Loose-Leash Walking● If over a period of time the loose-leash walking cue deteriorates to less than a 90%

compliance rate, you should Go Back to Kindergarten to refresh the cue.● Always remember that training is a lifelong commitment to the dog, and there will

not be a time when training is unnecessary.● Without consistent practice, the dog’s motivation to comply with the “Let’s Go”

cue may deteriorate.● You need to reward enough instances of the behavior to keep the behavior strong.

Common problems encountered when teaching the Loose-Leash Walking 1. The dog will not step pulling even when I follow the “Proofing Loose-Leash Walking” training steps.

Solutions■ Do Not Reward the Dog for Pulling■ Insufficient Motivation■ Use a Head Collar

2. When faced with a distraction, the dog will not stop pulling.Solutions

■ Review the dog’s behavioral threshold■ Use a Head Collar■ Go Back to Kindergarten■ Increase Exercise

3. The dog is becoming more and more aggressive on-leash.

Solutions■ Immediately Stop Practicing Loose-Leash Walking■ Allow the Dog Some Freedom■ Reduce Corrections

CONSISTENT LOOSE-LEASH PRACTICE-

● It is critical that you pay attention to the leash the entire time it is on the dog so you can catch her every single time she pulls.

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● If you ever allow the dog to pull you over to something, it will take her much longer to learn not to pull.

● The dog does not understand being able to do something once, and not being able to do it at a different time.

● Many dogs never understand the rules because their owners are not consistent.● One option for increasing consistency is to have one collar on which you always

use your “Let’s Go” loose-leash walking cue (for example, a flat collar or Gentle Leader), and a separate collar on which the dog is allowed to pull (i.e., harness).

Teaching the Heel Cue● A proper “heel” is a difficult exercise for many dogs.● It is like a dance step and requires a great deal of focus, concentration and

coordination in both dog and handler.● The goal of the Heel cue is for the dog to immediately assume a focused position

at the owner’s left side and remain there whether the owner is walking, standing still or running.

Some instances where the heel cue may be used include:1. Walking past a group of children2. Crossing the street3. Walking through a pet store4. Walking around other dogs5. Walking by a barking dog behind a fence

Introducing the Concept of a Loose Leash● The first step is to decide exactly where you want the dog to be when she is loose-

leash walking.● For example, does the owner want the dog to always be on the left side and never

more than two feet away, or is it acceptable for the dog to migrate from left to right during a walk, sniff anything she wants and go all the way to the very end of a six-foot leash provided she isn’t pulling?

● ABC teaches loose-leash walking with the following criteria.● The dog must walk somewhere on the left side of the owner as long as the leash

remains loose.● The dog cannot stop and sniff during loose-leash walking and she should be

walking at the approximate pace of the owner.

Introducing the “Let’s Go” Cue With Food Luring1. Hold the end of the leash and encourage the dog to come to your left side.2. Now, present your hand for the dog to touch. Keeping her nose on your hand, say

the dog’s name and “Let’s Go”, and encourage her to take two or three steps with no tension on the leash (she will stay on your left side because that is where your

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baited hand is). Give the conditioned reinforcer followed by the unconditioned reinforcer. Give the Release cue and praise lavishly.

● Continue to practice this exercise until the dog can walk without pulling for 10 steps while being lured at a 90% compliance rate.

Weaning the Dog Off the Food Lure● At this point, you will begin to walk the dog without her pulling and without her

being lured.

Important Note:● Do not practice this exercise in an area where other people or dogs are present

because distractions have not yet been introduced.● The dog’s insufficient cue proficiency combined with you preventing her from

approaching an unfamiliar person or dog may cause frustration-based aggression.

● This reaction may be more common in guarding breeds that are typically more suspicious of strangers.

Proofing Loose-Leash Walking● This exercise is designed as a proofing exercise and will not be necessary to

practice with all dogs.● At this point in training, most dogs will understand what is being asked of them

and will already be offering the correct behavior for a reward.● A small number of dogs may still have a hard time paying attention to you while

on a walk.● This exercise will prove to the dog how necessary, it is to be aware of you and the

leash.● Depending on the dog’s temperament, sensitivities and drives, you may use a

correction collar for this exercise.

Training TipUse Distractions to Reward Loose-Leash Walking

● Remember to allow the dog to approach many distractions while maintaining a loose leash.

● If the dog learns that a loose leash means no fun for her, she will never quit pulling.

● In addition, you do not want the dog to think that the distracting person or dog is something to fear.

Maintaining Loose-Leash Walking● If over a period of time the loose-leash walking cue deteriorates to less than a 90%

compliance rate, you should Go Back to Kindergarten to refresh the cue.● Always remember that training is a lifelong commitment to the dog, and there will

not be a time when training is unnecessary.● Without consistent practice, the dog’s motivation to comply with the “Let’s Go”

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cue may deteriorate.● You need to reward enough instances of the behavior to keep the behavior strong.

Common problems encountered when teaching the heel cue 1. The dog will not stop pulling even when I follow the “Proofing Loose-Leash Walking” training steps.

Solutions■ Do Not Reward the Dog for Pulling■ Insufficient Motivation■ Use a Head Collar

2. When faced with a distraction, the dog will not stop pulling.

Solutions ■ Review the dog’s behavioral threshold■ Use a Head Collar■ Go Back to Kindergarten■ Increase Exercise

3. The dog is becoming more and more aggressive on-leash.

Solutions■ Immediately Stop Practicing Loose-Leash Walking■ Allow the Dog Some Freedom■ Reduce Corrections

Teaching the Leave-It Cue● Teaching the Leave-it cue is an effective exercise in helping develop a dog’s self-

control.● The Leave-it cue can be used to tell a dog to back away from things you don’t

want her to touch such as children’s toys, or to stop sniffing or pawing at people.

LEAVE-IT CUE- The goal of the Leave-it cue is for the dog to leave something alone when instructed to.

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Shaping the Leave-It Cue Using Food● Fill a bowl with 50 small (pea-sized) soft food treats.● Then, sit on a chair in front of the dog in an area without distractions.● When the dog quickly backs away from your closed hand 90% of the time,

proceed of the next training exercise.

Important Note:● Always bring the treat to the dog.● Do not allow the dog to approach the treat after the Leave-It cue has been given.● You do not want to teach the dog that “Leave It” means to ignore it just for a

second and then rush in to take it.

Adding the Leave-It Cue● Prepare 50 small (pea-sized) soft food treats.● Then, sit on a chair in front of the dog in area without distractions.● You should proceed to the next training exercise when the dog quickly backs

away from your closed hand 90% of the time when the Leave-It cue is issued.

Introducing Correction to the Leave-It Cue● Prepare 50 small (pea-sized) soft food treats.● Then, sit on a chair in front of the dog in an area without distractions.● If required, put a buckle collar and six-foot leather or nylon leash on the dog.

Training TipAlways Bring the Reward to the Dog

● Remember to always bring the treat to the dog when you say “Take It.”● The biggest mistake people make when they start presenting their open hand is

that they pull their hand away as the dog tries to grab the treat.● The dog will not learn to back away if you do this.● Watch closely to see the dog learning to back away each time you say “Leave It.”● Also, make sure that you are giving the Leave-It cue as you present your hand.● It will be too late for the dog to stop her forward movement if you present your

hand first and then say “Leave It.”

Removing Your Hand From the Leave-It Cue● Prepare 50 small (pea-sized) soft food treats and sit on a chair in front of the dog.● Make sure there are no distractions.

1. Say “Leave It” as you place a food treat on the floor in front of you.2. When the dog backs away, give the conditioned reinforcer. Then, pick the

treat up and bring it to the dog, say “Take It” and allow her to eat the treat (unconditioned reinforcer). Praise lavishly.

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Maintaining the Leave-It Cue● Maintaining the Leave-It cue should be done by combining it with other cues and

using it in your day-to-day activities.● If over a period of time the Leave-It cue deteriorates to less than a 90%

compliance rate, you should Go Back to Kindergarten to refresh the cue.● Always remember that training is a lifelong commitment to the dog, and there will

not be a time when training is unnecessary.● Without consistent practice, the dog’s desire to comply with any cue may

deteriorate.

Common problems encountered when teaching the Leave-It Cue 1. The dog cannot leave the treat alone; she lunges and/or scratches and bites at my hand. She does not stop.

Solutions■ Ignore the Dog■ Decrease Food Drive■ Consider Using Corrections

2. The dog does not want what I have and will rarely chew on or pick up anything.

Solutions ■ Every Dog Needs the Leave-It Cue■ Increase Food Drive

3. The dog has mastered the Leave-It cue if the object or treat is in my hand but just does not get it when the object or treat is on the floor.

Solutions■ Evaluate Your Timing■ Leave-It Must Be Rewarding

Training Tip

Leave-It: Do not allow the dog to approach the treat after the Leave-It cue has been giving. You do not want to teach the dog that “Leave It” means to ignore it just for a second then rush in to Take It.

Take-It: Remember to always bring the treat to the dog when you say “Take It.” The biggest mistake people make when they start presenting their open hand is pulling their

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hand away as the dog tries grab the treat. The dog will not learn to back away if you do this. Watch closely to see the dog learning to back away each time you say “Leave It.” Also, make sure that you are giving the Leave-It cue as you present your hand. It will be too late for the dog to stop her forward movement if you present your hand first and then say “Leave It.”

Teaching the Fetch Cue● Every owner should be encouraged to teach his dog to fetch.● Fetch is an excellent way to exercise a dog and helps to develop a proper

relationship between the dog and her owner.● Playing fetch for 30 minutes is an excellent alternative exercise program for dogs

with tired owners.

FETCH-● The goal of the Fetch cue is to have the dog retrieve an object, bring it to you, sit

in front of you and release the object on cue.

Teaching fetch to a dog with a natural fetch drive and/or/ play drive● A dog with a natural fetch or play drive enjoys chasing things and picking them

up.● These dogs may chase leaves blowing in the wind and attempt to catch them.● These dogs tend to chase anything we throw for them because it is an invitation

to play, although they may not readily pick up various objects or return them without training.

● Dogs with a natural play drive may love to play tug-of-war, but may not fetch.● It is quite easy to teach these dogs to fetch it you do it in small steps.

Training TipTug-of-War:

● Many professional trainers will advise against playing tug-of-war with a dog.● In most cases, this is very good advice and games of tug should not be

considered until after the dog has a thorough understanding of relationship exercises and has accepted the rules within the family unit.

● It is also very important that the dog never wins the game of tug.● In this exercise, we have given the dog a treat or another toy to get her to release

the tug toy.● By always getting the dog to release the tug toy, you have won.

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Stop playing before the Dog loses Interest:● Always leave the dog wanting more.● You should end the fetch games before the dog decides she has had enough.● Do not let her get completely worn out or allow her to stop playing on her own

initiative.● Ideally you should stop two losses before the dog wants to stop.● As you learn to read the dog’s signals, you will come to know when this is.

TOUCH CUE-● To begin to teach a dog with low play (prey) drive to fetch, you need to teach the

dog the Touch cue first.● The Touch cue asks the dog to touch your un-baited hand wherever you present

it.

Teaching the Touch Cue● To teach the Touch cue, begin by standing or sitting in front of the dog.● Hold treats in your right hand and keep them behind your back.

Identify a fetch object the dog prefers:● You should select a retrieving object the dog likes to place in her mouth.● Some dogs prefer the feel of certain objects to others.● You may need to entice the dog to place her mouth or various objects to see if

there is one she likes better than others.● Be sure to move the objects around in a playful way to encourage the dog to

reach out and grab them.● You can even try coating the toy with peanut butter or soaking a hard toy in

chicken broth.

Teach touch with the dog on your left:● Remember to begin each Touch exercise with the dog at your left side in the heel

position, facing the same direction as you are.● This will get the dog used to moving away from you to reach the object.● During this time, make sure you give the conditioned reinforcer at the moment she

does the improved Touch.

Introducing the Fetch Cue● Begin teaching the word Fetch only when you are confident the dog will reach out

and grab the ball or toy.● To introduce the Fetch cue you will need to teach the dog to hold the object while

she is moving.

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Make Fetch Extremely Rewarding:● Playing fetch should be the highlight of the dog’s day.● You may need to reduce other fun activities (walks, petting, playing etc.) with the

dog until she has a good retrieve.● Most dogs will have a good retrieve in three to four weeks.● When you do engage in other fun activities, you should pair the retrieving object

with everything the dog likes.● If you take the dog for a walk, bring out the object first and have the dog touch it.● Take the retrieving object with you on the walk.● Have the dog touch the retrieving object before you feed her and place the object

next to her food bowl while she eats.● If the dog likes car rides, have her touch the object before allowing her to get in

the car and place the object next to her on the car seat, etc.

Common problems encountered when teaching fetch 1. The dog will not fetch. She is uninterested in the toy or me.

Solutions■ Fetch can be Taught■ Make Fetch Fun■ Go Back to Kindergarten

2. The dog will not release the toy, even if I scold her or try to take it out of her mouth.

Solutions ■ Do Not Scold a Dog While Playing Fetch■ Do Not Take the Toy From the Dog

3. The dog is crazy about the toy, She jumps, bites at it and is basically unmanageable when playing fetch.

Solutions■ Introduce Rules to the Game

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