BRAND NEW!

BEST OF SHOES & FASHIONautumn/winter 2015/16

special edition schuhkurier 1.2015 step autumn/w

inter 2015/16

special edition schuhkurier 1.2015 AUTUMN/WINTER 2015/16www.step-magazine.com

international

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EDITORIAL

All change

F ashion exists as a result of change. It is driven by innovation. How- ever, certain players in the market

believe that the industry is changing too fast at the moment. The market is shrinking, long-established brands are going bankrupt and major trade fairs, which used to be highly successful, are sinking to their knees. Omni-channel and digital technologies are creating challenges for retail that were once un-dreamed of, while Amazon and Zara are gnawing away at their own revenue. The weather also puts a damper on any sensibly thought-through budgeting, and customers are no longer what they used to be. Today’s customers are in- formed. Discerning. Demanding. Fashion retail has certainly seen better days. The fight for the target market is taking its toll, and, more often than ever before, culminates in a closing-down sale. However, fast structural change is also bringing opportunities. Busi-ness has always been about change, and no truer words can be said about retail today. Traditional market players with a single, uniform range are thre-atened sooner or later with extinction, while individual segments are merging together to form new lifestyle worlds, which are carefully curated and tanta-lizingly presented. Long gone are the

days when it was just a matter of sto-cking the right product. Nowadays, it’s about packing the product with as much emotion as possible, with the aim of arousing desire. “Elegance is achieving the right balance of proportion, emo-tion and surprise” – Valentino, one of the last remaining couturiers, may have said this about fashion in general, but it is particularly relevant to commer-ce, too. It will be essential in the future – if not critical to survival – to create customer experiences, which include a well-proportioned product range that is neither sold on every street corner nor on impersonal websites. And this includes dresses and bags, as well as matching ankle boots and that fancy iPhone case. A growing number of fashion retailers want to get their share of revenue from shoes and accessories, while shoe retai-lers are increasingly branching out into clothing. Sectors are merging with one another. As shoe and accessory special- ists, we make sure that step magazine is always at the cutting edge. step reports on the latest business trend, the right shoe for the right outfit, the very latest store concept – always as early in the season as possible – and now also in English for our international readers. Not to mention being online every day, at www.step-magazine.com.

Karolina LandowskiAssistant Editor in Chief

It will be essential in the future – if not critical to survival – to create customer experiences which include a well-proportioned product range.

Become a fan of step!

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AWARD 2014

I R R e S I S T I B L e

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06 step 1.2015

CONTENTS

EDITORIAL03 All change

NEWS10 News on fashion, retail & art

36 Berlin Fashion Week – Brand new!

77 step cover shoot – Making of

TREND18 New boho – Simplicity for creative minds

20 Eye test – Black and white patterns

22 Colour focus – Splashes of colour for men

24 Streetstyles – Pretty Paris

26 Pure white – Tone on tone

28 Cosy chic – Everyday fashion

30 Into the wild – Mystical forests

32 Men’s best – Casual androgynity

40 Autumn/winter 2015/16 shoe trends

44 3426

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STORES34 Table of Contents, Portland – Collision course

46 Clark Street Mercantile, Montreal – In detail

50 YME, Oslo – A giant

54 Storm, Copenhagen – Taken by storm

56 Bird, New York – A pioneering spirit

62 Joseph Cheaney & Sons, London – Statement store

66 Soto, Berlin – Flagship

68 Shop windows – Dressed to impress

step coverPhotographer: Domenik BroichAssistants: Robert Schwab, Leonie ScheuflerHair & make-up: Elke PflipsStyling & headpiece: Rolf BuckModel: KeziahDress: Irene LuftRetouching: Matthäus Walotek

50 64 66

DESIGNER

58 L’F Shoes – Topless

60 Pairs in Paris – Two become one

64 Elina Dobele – Durable

BRANDS44 Feit – Talking new shapes

49 The Mercer NY – Cashmere for the feet

CONTENTS

gant.com

F O O T W E A R

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NEWS

Aigner

Toni loves tradition“When I grow up, I want to buy a bag just like that one,” exclaimed Toni Garrn to his brother as the two teenagers stood in front of an Aigner shop. Several years, dozens of photo shoots and one re-lationship with Leonardo DiCaprio later, here she is: Toni Garrn is actually posing in front of the camera for the long-estab- lished Munich brand – as the model for the iconic new spring/summer 2015 col-lection campaign. “And that is why I especially enjoy working together with the brand today,” declares the German beauty, who is one of the most popular international models, and who was photo- graphed by Alexi Lubomirski in New York’s Milk Studios to coincide with the anniversary. Aigner will be celebrating 50 years in 2015. www.aigner.de

MCM

Lizzy Jagger is the new face of MCMInspired by Munich’s creative climax in the 1970s, the Ger-man luxury brand MCM is launching its new campaign starring model and ‘it’ girl Elizabeth Jagger in the leading role, presenting the key items of the spring/summer col- lection 2015. The campaign shows demure portraits of Lizzy adeptly presenting the luxury accessories. According to MCM, the relationship with the British and American model dates back to the 1970s, a period marked by the subversive and rock lifestyle of her parents, Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall. The photographer Daniel Jackson captured Jagger’s tender and fearless essence in soft pastel shades. www.mcmworldwide.com

Reebok

Kendrick in da houseReebok Classics has brought US superstar Kendrick Lamar on board. The Californian musician from Compton will be collaborating with the lifestyle brand in 2015, primar- ily to support the 25th anniversary of the legendary Reebok Ventilator. Reebok and Kendrick Lamar will be teaming up for a joint campaign to inspire and encourage young people to make the best out of them-selves. The start of the partnership was marked with a short film produced by Anthony Mandler, which is intended to portray a shared vision in a unique way – the belief that young people are blessed with infinite potential. www.reebok.com

Mario Testino

In your FaceThe influential photographer Mario Testino is exhibiting for the first time in Berlin. The exhibition ‘Mario Tes-tino: In Your Face’ will be showing from 20 January to 26 July 2015 at Kunstbibliothek der Staatlichen Mu-seen zu Berlin and the exhibition halls at Kulturforum. The exhibition com- prises 125 images representing the enti-re range of his photographic work, with an emphasis on provocative contrasts. It focuses on the experimentalism and diversity in Testino’s compositions, as well as the respectlessness, elegance and contrariness of his pictures. This is shown by way of official portraits, private snapshots, images of nudes and fashion photography. www.smb.museum

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NEWS

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NEWS

Puma x Rihanna

Shine brightThe sports equipment manufacturer, Puma, has teamed up with pop sing- er Rihanna. From the start of 2015, ‘RiRi’ will not only be working as Brand Ambassador at Puma, but also as Creative Director. As head designer of the Women’s Training collection, the 26-year-old will be working directly with Puma’s international design team and incorporating her “particularly good sense of style and innovation in the sports brand products,” announced Puma. The impact that she will make is expected to be seen in the 2015 spring/summer collection. Whether retakes on classic Puma designs or totally new creations, the collection inspired by Rihanna is intended to appeal to women around the world.www.puma.com

Adidas x Mary Katrantzou

Mix and matchAdidas is backing famous names once again. Following on from partnerships with Yohji Yamamoto, Stella McCart-ney, Raf Simmons, Rick Owens and Pharell Williams, Adidas has now teamed up with London-based Greek designer Mary Katrantzou. Mary Katrantzou’s first Adidas Originals col-lection concentrated primarily on sneak- ers. The 31-year-old took the classic Equipment Racer and ZX 5000 designs as inspiration, remodelling them with subversive graphics and architectural shapes. The Adidas Originals by Mary Katrantzou collection also includes clothing, with the Greek designer show-ing a particular penchant for feminine silhouettes and dynamic colours and patterns.www.adidas.de

Frida Giannini

Arrivederci, GucciIt’s all change at Milan’s fashion label Gucci. Head designer Frida Giannini will be leaving the company after pre-senting the autumn/winter collection 2015 at the Milan Fashion Week in Feb- ruary. Despite the departure coming as a surprise, the Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault said warmly, “I would like to thank Frida for her extraordi-nary passion, her commitment and the contribution that she has made. She has been the only creative director at Gucci for almost a decade. That is a remar-kable performance, bearing in mind the magnitude and extent of responsibility that she has had for such a long time.” Gucci’s CEO Patrizio di Marco, who has headed up the company for the last six years, will also be leaving. www.gucci.com

Beyoncé

Fashion StarAt the end of last year, Beyoncé and Topshop owner Sir Philip Green announced that they were launching a joint label, introducing a new brand of athletic street wear in autumn 2015. According to a press release, the collection will include clothes, shoes and accessories and target the dance and fitness sector. The style will combine fashion with high-tech performance clothing. This is far from the pop star’s first adventure in the world of fashion. Beyoncé already heads up the House of Deréon label, together with her sister Solange and mother Tina. www.beyonce.com P

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NEWS

ALL IMPORTANT TRENDS.ALL STRONG BRANDS. IN A FIRST-CLASS ENVIRONMENT.

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DÜSSELDORF 4 – 6 FEB 201529– 31 JUL 2015

SUPPORTED BY:

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NEWS

Floris van Bommel9th generation shoemaker

since 1734

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1.2015 step 15

NEWS

Cat Footwear

On the catwalk with OdeurWhen Petter Hollström and Gorjan Lauseger, designers of the Swedish label Odeur, present their autumn/win-ter 2015 collection at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin on 19 January, Cat Footwear boots will also be gracing the catwalk. “Our cult classic, the Colorado, is the perfect match for Odeur. It is timeless, functional and complements Odeur, a unisex style that is equally popular with men and women,” explains Isabelle Groh, Marketing Manager at Cat Footwear Central Europe. She adds, “Both brands concentrate exclusively on the essentials, and po-sition themselves on authenticity, quality and coolness.” www.catfootwear.com

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

Givenchy exposedUntil the end of January 2015, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza in Madrid will be hosting the first major retrospective exhibition dedicated to the work of the French designer Hubert de Givenchy, a key figure in twentieth century fa-shion and a living legend in the his-tory of haute couture. The exhibition, conceived and curated by Hubert de Givenchy himself, covers a half cen-tury, from the founding of the House of Givenchy in 1952 to his retirement in 1996. He has selected roughly one hundred of his most beautiful crea-tions that have been graciously loaned by museums and private collectors around the world, many of which will be displayed in public for the first time.www.museothyssen.org

Michael Kors

Shoes for jetsettersMichael Kors presents six essential pairs of shoes that have been designed for busy jet-setters who need practical yet glamorous shoes to suit their on-the-go lifestyle. The capsule collection includes shoes that are perfect for any occasion or any location. The spring 2015 season features Irving sneakers, Odessa platform sandals, Kristen mid-heel sandals, jelly sandals, Somerly wedges and Walton ankle boots, all in multiple colours. A luxe croc-embossed suitcase designed to house the collection will be available for sale at select stores. “Every woman I know is obsessed with shoes,” says Michael Kors. “The Jet Set Six Collection makes it easy to take the season’s six must-have pairs everywhere you go, from St. Barths to Shanghai.” www.michaelkors.com

MKG Hamburg

Pretty as a pictureFashion on paper: a new exhibiti-on at MGK Hamburg is providing visitors with a unique look at the genre of fashion sketching. The pictures are all borrowed from the collection of renowned Munich- based gallery owner and collector Joëlle Chariau. The original sketches from this collection represent the very essence of fashion sketching and its highly artistic nature. The extra- ordinary precision of the sketches underlines the formidable extravagan-ce of the collection and its creations.More than 170 works of art are on display, including sketches from large fashion houses, such as Christian Dior and Alexander McQueen. The exhibi-tion is running until 3 May 2015. www.mkg-hamburg.de

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TREND

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Bohemian chic, with its retro influences and ethnic touches,

will be looking simpler and tidier next winter. Folkloristic patterns will be graphically styled, and floppy hats and fur waistcoats will be worn with plain skinny pants, masculine boots and plateau monks. Uncomplicated everyday wear, yet still sufficiently exciting.

Creative talents inspired by simplicity

New boho

Kontrast: Top von Strenesse

Ethnic chic: earrings by Gas Bijoux

Exotic: ankle boot by Ash

Blowing its own horn: necklace by The Hobo Society

Indestructible: bag by Antik Batik

Modern seventies: outfit by Comma

Plain Bohemian: outfit by More & More

Boho bag by Becksöndergaard

Monk meets platform: shoe by A.S.98

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TREND

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Wild patterns in black and white

Eye test

Fashion without black and white doesn’t bear thinking about. The

coming autumn/winter season will reveal the most traditional of all colour contrasts in a totally alluring way – as an opulent sea of flowers, an opaque alphabetical pot-pourri, or a wild jumble of patterns. Floral designs, digitally distorted photo prints and deformed lettering will certainly keep your eyes on the ball.

What a contrast: earrings by Gas Bijoux

Two-tone from top to toe: outfit by More & More

Cooler than any bouquet: slip-on by Ash

Print works! Miniskirt by Ilse Jacobsen

Zebra look: bag by Picard

A sea of flowers in black and white: outfit by Baum und Pferdgarten

All mixed up: cardigan by Junerose

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TREND

TREND

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Look again for colour

Hide and seek

Even though the days of vivid colours in men’s fashion may

well be over for the time being, men won’t survive next winter without the odd splash of colour. This will be hidden well away on outer soles, lining or toes of socks, creating unexpected dramatic ef-fect every now and again with bright yellow, flame red and grass green.

Yellow soles: lace-ups by Floris van Bommel

Collector’s item: messenger bag by Cinque

Subtle stripes: outfit by Alberto

Highlight: monks by Melvin & Hamilton

Orange is the new black: watch by Pop-Pilot

Sock it to them: colourful socks by Marc O’Polo

Spot the car: all-over printed shirt by Eton

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TREND

T H E M A R K E T P L A C E F O R L E A D I N G B R A N D SIN T ERN AT ION A L FA SHION T R A DE SHOW | 19 – 2 1 JA N 2 0 15

www.panorama-berlin.com

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TREND

Pretty ParisThe most important fashion trends wait around every corner in Paris. step reveals the best of the latest looks.

Paris is, and always will be, the capital of fashion. In no other

metropolis do trends grace the streets so nonchalantly and matter of course. The city is currently full of graphic checks in all shapes, wide culottes and oversized polo-neck jumpers. The look is comfortable and plain, with a certain amount of finesse thrown in for good measure. One cannot help but notice the calming colours, just as much as the penchant for eccen-tric shoes. The dominant styles are flat and masculine: brogues, monks, slip-ons and loafers are worn in their traditional form or with extreme platforms. Black and white contrasts and striking metallic details add a little touch of extravagance. Sneakers remain a must and give every outfit a casual, sporty look in one fell swoop.

Sneakers are always winners: combined here with a biker jacket and patterned silk dress.

Checks versus stripes: ankle boots and polo-neck jumper complete the graphic look.

Très chic: white slip-ons, culottes and rust-red fringed jumper.

New shape expression: boots with a midi skirt and coarse-knit top.

A must-have on the streets of Paris: plateau brogues by Stella McCartney.

Retro chic: checked coat set off with black and white monks.

Extremely casual high heels complete the skinny jeans and cardigan style. Ph

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hall 1.2 urban UP # stand 1.UP.03PANORAMA

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TREND

Tone on tone: The new looks for autumn/winter 2015/16 are reinterpreting the soft colour palette, including white, silvery grey, off-white and light wool tones. Sensual materials and generous volumes make for soft silhouettes. Wide, coarse-meshed knitwear is matched with elegant dresses and flowing skirts. Different textures are combined: matt with glossy, chunky with fine, transparent with opaque.

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TREND

Everyday fashion: Casual silhouettes, plain materials and wide cuts make for a sporty, everyday look. Comfortably shaped trousers are key – from jogging trousers to wide styles. Cardigans, comfy wool

jackets, softly flowing tops and plenty of knitwear complete the outfits. Grey is the dominant colour – either as tweed or jersey mélange. This is combined with sneakers, or – as a real style contrast – elegant heels.

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STORES

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TREND

The wilderness calls: The 2015/16 ethno look has been inspired by mystical forests and Native North Americans. Wide wool capes are the focus, and these are combined with either comfy skirts or dark

denim. Fringes, leather buckles and folklore patterns add characteristic details every now and again. Ankle and knee-length boots are appearing in many new styles – from rough to sporty.

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STORES

www.picard-lederw

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19.01. – 21.01.2015 PANORAMA Berlin, Halle 1, Stand 1.13 15.02. – 18.02.2015 Mipel Mailand, Stand A12 A16, Sektor: EXTRA, PAD 8 27.02. – 01.03.2015 Internationale Lederwaren Messe Offenbach Winter Styles, Stand B2.02 18.03. – 20.03.2015 Chic Shanghai

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TREND

Androgynity goes casual: The coming winter will see irony at play with men’s fashion items. Culottes and wide, shorter trousers will be worn with boxy jackets, XXL tops and long waistcoats. Soft silk

shirts and an elegant metallic shimmer will be used to add a clever style contrast. And dandies, monks, brogues and loafers – reinterpreted on thick plateau soles – will be keeping feet firmly on the ground.

Men’s best

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SHOPPING

MICAM 15.02. – 18.02.2015Pad. 2, Stand N 08

Moda Made In Italy06.03. – 08.03.2015

designed with love | made with pride | worn with pleasure

www.my-rosarot.de

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STORES

Collision courseHigh ceilings and plenty of space create the perfect setting in which an extraordinary store can unfold. These were also the exact thoughts of Shu Hung and Joseph Magliaro as they founded the concept store Table of Contents in Portland.

A t first glance, Table of Contents seems to be anything but a boutique. It looks more like a contempor- ary lifestyle gallery, which pulls in its clientele as

if by magic. This very new addition to Portland’s shop-ping scene is quickly developing into one of the city’s best addresses. This comes as no surprise, especially when the ever-changing appearance of the store is such an inspiring

magnet, over and above the fascinating range of products. Every season, the owners think up a special theme for their store, which they like to compare with a trendy lifestyle magazine. They get their inspiration for the store from flea markets, auctions and garage sales, as well as from the international press and, recently, frequently online. Even though Hung and Mafliaro travel regularly on business

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Table of Contents 33 NW 4th Avenue, Portland, Oregon, USA www.tableofcontents.us

trips and frequent the most spectacular places on earth, they also gain a lot of inspiration from ordinary every-day situations and meeting interesting people in their own district, as well as from the cool local art scene.

More than simply fashion Last season’s projects ‘action is character’ and ‘a piece of cloth’ caused great sensation. Because every initiative is more complex than the last, other creative minds have been frequently brought on board in the planning and im-plementation phases. Correll Correll played a dynamic role when the store implemented ‘Play’. This initiative revolved around a table-tennis table made from imita- tion marble, which they developed together. This served as the support on which all other decorations were hung. In the strict sense, Table of Contents is definitely not just a platform for fashion, accessories and shoes. Right from the start, it was affiliated to its own design studio, which has allowed the store to develop an extremely experi-mental concept. Furniture, designer objects and graphics, as well as even design strategies, were developed by themselves or on behalf of others. Finding creative so-lutions and putting these into practice are key concepts at Table of Contents. The store allows the two owners to try out unconventional things, continually bringing alive new ideas and subsequently putting these over to a discerning clientele. It all began with wild, knee- jerk operations in 2008, when both owners were living in Berlin. Simple, self-built tables, on which extravagant items and exciting books were displayed for sale, were used to display their merchandise in different shops and facilities throughout the city. This business concept went

by the name of today’s store. It was obvious that this concept should be continued once they had move to the United States – albeit in greater style the second time around.

Only the bestTable of Contents stocks the most exciting labels of the season. At the moment, these include designers such as Comme des Garçons, Acne Studios, Visvim, Jan-Jan Van Essche, Bless, Yohji Yamamoto, Hope, Christophe Le-maire and Henrik Vibskov. And because accessories put the crowning touch on a look, the store also stocks bags, belts, jewellery, etc. On top of this, there is also a range of attractive home decoration items as well as a selection of reading matter.Shu Hung and Joseph Magliaro want to tell a tale with the goods that are on display. Their intention is to astound visitors, inspire them and provide them with some definite food for thought. This exchange with other design enthu-siasts is actually the reason behind the founding of the store. Both owners used to work in the digital and printed media sectors, which they sadly considered too far re- moved from reality.Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazin.de

Books, magazines, fashion and accessories all under one roof – this is no new idea, but few implement the concept so rigorously and stylishly as Table of Contents.

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NEWS

Brand new!Berlin’s fashion fairs Premium and Panorama not only reveal the a/w trends for 2015/16, but also give visitors the chance to discover newcomers. step introduces the best of fresh talent.

Yumi

London lovesIn 1994, the couple Uttam and Clare Nepal began selling knitwear on Camden Market, London. The fashion at the time, which included hand-made ethnic clothing, made their collection increasingly popular towards the end of the 1990s, when the Yumi brand enjoyed considerable growth. The company acqui-red a reputation for its vibrant colours, quirky prints and at-tention to detail, and quickly became globally recognised for its eye-catching womens-wear and accessories. Yumi is exhibiting for the first time at this season’s Panorama. www.yumidirect.co.uk

Grey Copenhagen

All about accessoriesDanish design and Italian luxury are two traditions that are weaved together in the new brand Grey Copen- hagen. Designer Marie Bögelund launched her first col- lection after more than twenty years of experience in the fashion industry. Although Grey Copenhagen concen-trates on scarves, each season will also bring a selection of other accessories, such as bags, belts and jewellery. Premium, The Cubes, stand C1 A 05. www.gr-ey.com

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Lumi

Finnish designLumi is an accessories and lifestyle brand representing sustainable valu-es and Scandinavian design. Its men’s and ladies’ leather handbags and acces- ories are renowned for their clean-cut designs, strong range of colours and first-class workmanship. All items are made from high-quality materials in timeless and graphical shapes, incor-porating functionality and innovative details. The leather handbags, shoes and other accessories are produced in Fin-land and will be on show at Premium in hall 5. www.lumiaccessories.com

Aimo Richly

Deluxe knitwearThe trademarks of Swiss knitwear la-bel Aimo Richly are high quality, vivid colours and daring patterns. Opposi-tes attract in the womenswear coll-ection: floral motifs, typically Brit- ish patterns and geometric designs aim to create a feminine, romantic and chic look. The menswear collec-tion reflects a mixture of urbanity and preppy chic – with timeless jumpers that can be worn in a thousand differ- ent ways. See Aimo Richly at Premium in hall 8, stand E03. www.aimorichly.com

O My Bag

Clear conscienceO My Bag creates fair-manufacture and fair-trade bags and accessories. All prod- ucts are as classic as they are practical and fashionable, are made from the finest leather and have an authentic vin-tage feel to them. Timeless yet modern, these bags can be worn with a clear con-science. The Dutch label positions itself with everyday styles that reflect current trends – and protect our resources at the same time. Each style is produced from ecological leather and is on show at Panorama. www.omybag.nl

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International Shoe Fair10-13 January 2015

Hall c 2Stand F 01

International Eventfor Shoes & Accessories4-6 February 2015

Hall 05Stand A 27

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International Shoe Fair10-13 January 2015

Hall c 2Stand F 01

International Eventfor Shoes & Accessories4-6 February 2015

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NEWS

Baldan

Essence of ItalyThe shoe brand Baldan is famous for beautiful design and skilled craftsmanship. The company remains inde-pendent and family-run, while distributing to exclusive retailers in the USA, the Middle East, Asia and Europe. The company’s elegant Milan showroom, in which re-presentatives of the fashion world are received, is loca-ted in a historical palace in the heart of fashion’s Golden Quadrangle. 2015 marks a new era for Baldan as the house will increase its presence in the worldwide mar-ket and exhibit at Premium in the Essence area. www.baldan.it

Fransa

Contemporary womenThe Danish brand Fransa primarily fo-cuses on women who like to be feminine and well dressed, and who have a keen appreciation of style and quality. These women expect their favourite fashion brand to answer several needs – ranging from the very feminine look with dec-orative details for special occasions, to a great range of business wear, as well as more casual styles for leisure – and all at affordable prices. Equipped with exten-sive knowledge of trends, shapes, quality and looks, Fransa aims to perfectly ful-fil the wishes of contemporary women. www.fransa.com

Warm me

Woolly hat alert!‘We want you to look good and feel good’ is the mission of the woolly hat label Warm me. The hats are hand-knitted in Nepal using 100% finest cashmere, creating a unique must-have accessory with a good dose of elaborate details. Luxurious materi-als, perfect fits, fashionable colours and visual effects make the hats as authentic and unique as the people wearing them. www.warm-me.com

Dilly Socks

Colour shockDilly Socks is the colourful sock label created by a Swiss team of four, Sean Pfister, Claudio Lumbiarres, Fabian Knup and Fabian Plain. The label is scooping up fans with its unconventional designs and unique online shop, as well as its close partnerships with im-portant names from the world of art and design and complementary ‘scene’ brands. See Dilly Socks at Premium, hall 5, stand E03. www.dillysocks.ch

TS Handels GmbH | Ebertstrasse 30 | D-63165 Mühlheim am Main | Tel +49 (0)6108 - 99 00 02 Mobile +49 171 851 80 60 | Fax +49 (0)6108 - 99 00 03 | tstein@tstein.com | www.tstein.com

Trade fair dates

04.02.2015 – 06.02.2015 GDS Düsseldorf, hall 5 / F 45, Düsseldorf 15.02.2015 – 18.02.2015 Micam Mailand, hall 1 Stand K 05 - L 06, Mailand22.02.2015 – 23.02.2015 Info Messe FOM, Spreitenbach06.03.2015 – 08.03.2015 Moda made in Italy, hall 4, Munich

TREND

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Autumn/winter 2015/16 shoe trendsCollege, outdoor and sportswear styles and an omnipresence of black – the first trends for the coming autumn and winter season show little novelty and favour the tried and trusted.

College chicPerfectly preppy! Whatever the style, whether it be penny or tassel loafers, or Chelsea boots, classic British shoes have never been more in. They will be appear- ing in their traditional design or on extravagant plateaux, in shiny patent, nubuck or suede. The colour range will include cognac, brown, aubergine and winter turquoise.

French Connection Gant

Ash Melvin&HamiltonComma

Dr. Martens

TREND

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OutdoorThe coming season will see a whole range of different ankle-length boots that are winter-friendly and close to nature, inspired by outdoor sports and adven-ture. Worker and biker boots, gauchos and short Chelsea boots will feature fur linings, quilted bootlegs and fetching details. The colour palette is stepping out with light natural shades.

Barbour

Sorel

xxxxxxxxx Floris van Bommel Gant

Mac

DainoDr. Martens

Cinque

TREND

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SneakeramaThe new, extremely casual everyday fashion means that sneakers are still an absolute must. Next winter, the sporty multitaskers will be showing a rela-tively plain and reserved choice of col- ours. Designs will tend towards stur-dy soles, embossed leather and classic retro silhouettes. High and low-cut styles will be interchangeable.

Ash

Tommy Hilfiger Denim

Napapijri

Dr. Martens

Floris van Bommel

Tommy Hilfiger Kappa Asics

TREND

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All blackAnkle boots and company will be totally black next winter. Sturdy soles and plateaux will create a rough look, while heels will be putting in an appear- ance on ankle boots. Biker and Chelsea boots will get a feminine makeover with more pointed designs and high heels. Buckles, leather stitching, laces and in-lay will feature tone on tone.

Rosarot French Connection Bullboxer

Ash

Sorel

Mac

Marc Aurel

Fritzi aus Preußen

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Talking new shapesOne of today’s hippest shoe labels comes from Sydney: Feit positions itself on simple lines and exceptionally beautiful leather.

Feit footwear was considered the best-kept fashion secret over the past few seasons, until, that was, the first store opened in November 2014 on New York’s Prince Street – marking the beginning of a breakthrough for the Sydney-based brand. For more than a decade, the label was not only held in high esteem for its design aesthetics, but also the way in which it swam against the tide in a bid to contest against the conventions of the industry. The label’s mission includes selective distribution via fashion stores such as Dover Street market and Assembly Lon-don, as well as via its own website. It is also committed to using only chromium-free tanned leather in its limited edition shoes. Every style is manufactured in only 60 edi-tions – each being a joy to admire and hold. Following the outstanding success of men’s shoes, demand for women’s sizes was so great that the product range now includes unisex styles and ladies’ shoes. At last.www.feitdirect.com

I T E M - m6. c o m

Fashion combined with decades of exper t ise in ef fect ive compress ion technology. Innovat ive h igh-per formance yarns incorporated in the latest s ty les. i s a complete ly new leg and shapewear concept developed by the German high- tech manufacturer medi .

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MORE ENERGY. LIGHT LEGS.A BEAUTIFUL SILHOUE T TE.

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STORES

In detail Clark Street Mercantile, located in the hippest district in Montreal, cheerfully brings together the very latest lifestyle and art under one roof.

C lark Street Mercantile is quite clearly one of Montreal’s most prominent addresses for men’s fashion. And this is all thanks to Scott Meleskie,

who ensures that each and every product conforms to the highest standards of quality and design. The prerequisite is that all items have a certain je ne sais quoi, outlast more than one season and are in perfect keeping with contemporary tastes. He had been dissatisfied with what was available in his home city for many years. To put it bluntly, he was an-noyed with the fact that virtually the same items are always on sale, no matter which city you are in. It was high time to do something about it! He had been secretly planning his own store for a long time. When a high-potential store finally came up for rent in the city’s happening Mile End district, there was no holding him back. The whole concept had long been matured in his head – right down to the very last detail – and was just waiting to be brought alive. Since the opening in June 2013, Meleskie has been dedicated to bringing fascinating items and collections together, as well as offering a springboard for highly promising new-comers. Iron and Resin, Apolis, Douk-Douk, Veja, Another Escape, Engineered Garments, Grenson, Arpenteur, Ateli-er de L’Armée, Red Wing Shoes, BLKSMTH, Daneson, Faribault, Sandqvist, Portuguese Flannel, Devine Twine – this short selection sadly does little justice to the fascinating range of items on sale inside the store.

Wonderful neighbourhoodAlthough Mile End is a district of historic significance, it is also renowned for its multitude of good restaurants and friendly cafés. Everything is laid-back in this part of the city, and as rent here is still reasonable, it is home to many artists, musicians, authors, independent gallery owners and other freethinkers. These lend a mosaic feel to the district, which is emphasised by the myriad of vari-ous boutiques. In this close-knit neighbourhood, the bagel shop rubs shoulders with the tattoo studio, the tiny flower shop with an even tinier kiosk. Clark Street Mercantile is right in the thick of it, on the corner of Fairmount Avenue and Clark Street, which automatically explains how the name of the store came about. The ‘Mercantile’ extension

is purely used to signify a general store. The many beauti-ful houses in this district are themselves testimony to the eventful past. Even this store occupies an old building, which had been used as a butcher’s shop until recently. Today, however, the approximately 93 square metre store is the stomping ground for hip menswear, all sorts of acces-sories, a range of lifestyle products and much, much more.

Retro and street artMeleskie’s concept includes a nostalgic-looking interior with a heavy emphasis on authenticity. To achieve this, the owner invested a lot of time and money in furnishing the store. Furthermore, everything is given a facelift at least once a season. Using great taste, a keen eye for detail and a sense of humour, he is constantly improving the way in which his product range is displayed. Props are continually being changed in order to create a completely new atmos-phere. He maintains that current trends need to be commu-nicated with much fervour. Meleskie gets his in-spiration from old films and books, as well as flea markets and se-cond-hand shops. The whole project is, however, far from a pure retro cry. Clark Street Mercantile never loses touch with the present. Fortunately, artists have always been able to be involved in the planning and implementation, and their works go hand in hand with the different styles within the store. Customers enjoy the works of up-and-coming creative talent interposed between second-hand parapher-nalia and new stocks. These can include sculptures, pictu-res and illustrations, as well as stencil graffiti, as is the case this season. An artist has even decorated the shop’s corner window and entrance door, hand-painting the historic-sty-le store logo onto the glass using traditional methods. Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazin.de

Clark Street Mercantile 5200 Clark Street, Montreal, Québec H2T 2V2, Canadawww.clarkstreetmercantile.com

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Cashmere for the feetThe textile brand The Mercer NY launches its own shoe collection.

Manfred Eichberg has big plans. The shoe expert, who success-fully established the Louis

Norman brand on the market, is now backing The Mercer NY’s new launch. The shoes are the result of a partner-ship with the shoe manufacturer Enzo Grassetti. As a brand belonging to the Bielefeld industrial association Katag, The Mercer NY is already well estab-lished in the textile business. Eichberg believes that selected shoe retailers can now benefit from the attractive-ness of the brand. “The Mercer NY focuses on the combination of fashion, quality and comfort,” explains Manfred Eichberg. During an intensive preparation phase,

only – boutiques that are sufficiently spacious and stock a significant depth of range. “These are not preliminary products,” clarifies Eichberg. No com-promise should be made where quality is concerned. Only high-quality leather is used, which is vegetable-tanned, whenever possible. Fine calf-leather lining is also intended to ensure max- imum comfort inside the shoe. The shoes will also be sold from March via the brand’s own online shop. The Mercer NY’s autumn/winter col-lection will be presented in The Karls-son Penthouse during Berlin Fashion Week, from 19 to 21 January.www.themercerny.comPetra Salewski, ps@step-magazin.de

the industry expert not only created an extensive portfolio of styles, but also maximum comfort, thanks to spe-cial reinforcement for the ankle. This also allows shoes with a high pitch to benefit from the sacchetto construc-tion, providing maximum support for the feet. Combined with a Poron in-sole, which is designed to provide a cushioning effect, customers can en-joy ‘cashmere for the feet’. A utility model patent for the ankle reinforce-ment system is pending. “This shoe collection is decidedly different,” adds Eichberg confidently. The styles, which will be priced be-tween 200 and 300 euros, are planned to be stocked by selected boutiques

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A giantNicolai Schaaning Larsen has created a new shopping experience in Oslo.

YME transports customers into a universe of fashion, art and design.

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U p until now, Oslo has primarily been associated with prosperity, a picturesque location on the fjord and contemplative tranquillity. Meanwhile, other

Scandinavian cities with dynamic creative scenes, such as Stockholm and Copenhagen, enjoyed the reputation of being fashion metropolises. Up until now. And then there was YME.

Last September, Nicolai Schaaning Larsen opened his concept store in a historical building on Karl Johans Gate, between the Royal Palace and parliament. The building, which dates back to 1844, has been described as Paris in miniature. This move has brought YME inside Paleet. This shopping centre, which also opened its doors in September 2014, brings some 30 high-end fashion and lifestyle stores and restaurants together under one roof. Nicolai Schaaning Larsen, a graduate from London’s Central St. Martins Col-lege, gets his inspiration from legendary stores, such as Dover Street Market in London, Colette in Paris and 10 Corso Como in Milan. With a trained eye for all things beautiful and aesthetic, the Norwegian developed a new vision for retail in the 21st century. His plans were brought to life by the firm of architects, Snøhetta. The result has set new benchmarks far beyond Scandinavian borders. Spread over three floors, the 1,600 square metre YME is a fusion of fashion store, art gallery, bookshop and café. A

YME stocks shoes, accessories, fragrances and selected books, alongside clothing.

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YMEKarl Johans Gate 39, 0162 Oslo, Norway www.ymeuniverse.com

roof terrace is due to open in spring 2015, creating a green oasis in the middle of the city. The name of the store has its roots in Nordic mythology. Yme was a giant who was born from the convergence of fire and ice. The interior de-sign also reflects such stark antipodes. The cool white that dominates the ground floor is broken up with a stunning 25 metre-long pine frieze. A 12 metre-high staircase leads up to the first floor, where the parquet floor and brick walls bear testimony to the building’s history. The second, very dark floor is accessed via a crude steel spiral staircase. “We are looking at retail from another, completely new perspective. The story behind the products, how they are described and displayed, is the key focal point in our uni-verse. Our goal is to create a place where fashion, art and design enthusiasts can come together,” explains Nicolai Schaaning Larsen. The range includes selected premium brands, such as Dior Homme, Valentino, Mary Katrantzou, Rick Owens, A.P.C., Wood Wood and Opening Ceremony. The store also stocks accessories from Stone Paris, Sophie Bille Brahe and Ileana Makri, alongside fragrances, books, international style magazines and design gadgets.Helge Neumann, hn@step-magazin.de

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Postbahnhof, Berlin, 19 – 21 January 15

IF YOU DO IT RIGHT, IT WILL LASTFOREVER

Postbahnhof, Berlin

green showroom 19 — 21 january 15

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Taken by stormCopenhagen’s fun concept store Storm has been extraordinarily quick to secure itself the prime position in popularity ratings. An absolute must-visit in the heart of the city – and not just for fashion enthusiasts either!

T he combined concept of lifestyle and fashion bou-tique took off straight away. The driving force be-hind the scenes goes by the name of Rasmus Storm,

who launched the project so that he could express his vi- sion of fashion and design, as well as provide a sophisti-cated showcase in which innovative talents from a whole range of different disciplines could present their applied art. And as if concentrating on young men’s, women’s and street wear is not enough, he also stocks totally hip items from hand-selected top designer collections, lots of accessories and a small beauty universe, as well as heaps of music, books and gadgets. It is this outstanding combi-nation that makes the store so unique, and explains why it continually attracts the city’s aesthetes. In terms of fashion, brands include Géométrick, Raf Simons, Joyrich, Ann De-meulemeester, Fear of God, Hood by Air, CMMN SWDN, Off-White, 424, Bernstock Speirs, Kitsuné, Chauncey, Stampd, Tourne de Transmission, Peter Pilotto, Thom Browne, Y-3, Une Femme, Serious Wapanese and Céline. The huge range of beauty products, cosmetics and selected fragrances is also amazing – all of them rarities, which can be found virtually nowhere else in the city. The other key emphasis that definitely deserves a mention here is the accessories and shoes segment. Everything and anything that is ahead of the pack in terms of fashion is, of course, highly likely to end up in the product range. Shoe worship-pers definitely get their money’s worth in this Mecca.

In the spotlightCustomers particularly like the brightness of the store. Large windows on two sides let in a lot of daylight, and also happen to bring the wonderful aspect of the historic district inside the store. The shop’s interior is designed around minimalism and coolness. Everything looks modern, fresh and reserved – after all, the tempting product ran-ge clearly takes centre stage here. Podiums, clothes racks, shelving and semi-solid partitions with integrated storage are so cleverly arranged that the 120 square metre large and bright L-shaped room never looks cramped, despite the abundance of goods on display. On the contrary, it of-fers an amazing amount of space for each individual brand to unfold. The manager wants it to be fun, exclusive and exciting, as well as educational. Storm positions itself primarily as an ambassador that aims to build bridges be-tween designers and a fashion-conscious clientele. ‘Only the crème de la crème’ is the company’s credo. In order to fulfil this promise, thorough research is needed each and every season. After all, what else can be expected when you are in a fashion-crazy city such as Copenhagen, with its discerning clientele? It’s a good job, then, that this ties in perfectly with the owner’s greatest passion, which he shares with the numerous members of his entourage. Al-ways on the lookout for what’s new, they invariably catch up with the rising stars amongst creative talent. This is one of the most attractive parts of working in the team. The Storm creators encourage out-of-the-box ideas, rad- ical thinking, novelty, intellect and humour. Electrified with all this energy, the rest just ‘happens’ – virtually all by itself. After all, when refined ideas from ateliers around the world bowl people over as soon as they hit the shows, they are bound to enrapture customers in store, too. Storm has been one of the top addresses in the Danish capital for years – a concept store on a quest for like minds. Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazin.de

Storm Regnegade 1, 1110 Copenhagen, Denmarkwww.stormfashion.dk

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Window design – the concept store has been designed with a graphic, plain interior.

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Urban menswear, cosmetics, trendy designer collections, hip watches and selected books, to name but a small part of the range at Storm.

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S ince her kindergarten days, Jen Mankins was fas-cinated by extraordinary fashions and textiles. Bold colours, extravagant prints and exciting textures still

inspire her to dream, even today. Most of all, she likes to mix contrasting patterns and styles, creating new looks and vibes. Her motto is: the more unusual, the better. “The opulence of patterns and colours is just up my street. Whichever way you look at it, I’m a failed minimalist,” is how she describes herself, with a twinkle in her eye. It was perfectly obvious that she would, one day, end up in the

world of fashion. Her passion for all things beautiful was sparked further by her first job as an assistant buyer at the distinguished department store Barneys. The close cooper- ation with independent designers from all over the world – and being confronted with completely different design philosophies and approaches when creating a new collec-tion – have left a lasting impression. Before discovering her present vocation in 1999 and opening her own first boutique, she worked as head buyer for Steven Alan. And because she was still bounding with energy, she founded P

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A pioneering spiritThe reputable New York fashion house Bird, in the district of Williamsburg, was forged by a strong sense of responsibility, the courage to take risks and a keen instinct for hidden potential – creating a considerable amount of hype.

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Bird203 Grand Street, Brooklyn, NY 1121, USA www.shopbird.com

the fashion label, Charlotte Corday, together with friends. In the meantime, there are now three Bird boutiques – all in Brooklyn. The largest is in a central location on Grand Street and opened in 2006. Incidentally, Jen Mankins was one of the first young entrepreneurs to believe in the po-tential of the Brooklyn district. Williamsburg is one of the most hip districts in the greater NYC area. In subsequent years, more and more shopping Meccas established them-selves amidst the bars, restaurants and clubs on Bedford Avenue, 6th Street and Grand Street in particular. At pre-sent, the scene is far from the mainstream, which makes it all the more exciting. Although Manhattan is only a stone’s throw away, Williamsburg is more like a typical small American town. However, in the last three years, the situation has changed considerably: the insider tip has now become a buzzing location. It is hardly recognisable, especially on weekday evenings and at the weekend. This is when the rather lackadaisical area suddenly transforms into an Eldorado for hipsters and, consequently, into a hot-spot for trend scouting.

Numerous awards Bird consists of two rooms, one behind the other. The glorious lifestyle world of Jen Mankins spreads through- out the spacious boutique and her frequently changing concepts are a constant source of attraction in the store. However, even without all this effort, just the pure range of products is irresistible. There is a hand-picked selection for ladies from A Détacher, A.P.C., 3.1 Phillip Lim, Ale-

xander Wang, Proenza Schouler, Tsumori Chisato, Alas-dair, Black Crane, Christian Wijnants, Mina Perhonen or Rachel Comey. On the other hand, men can browse out-fits from Acne Studios, Band of Outsiders, Patrik Ervell, Robert Geller, Saturdays Surf NYC, Steven Alan, Won Hundred, Public School, Common Projects, Save Khaki, Shipley & Halmos and various others.The owner travels far and wide in search of new brands and inspiration. But that’s not all: she wanted to go down a different road with this store’s concept. She had everything designed in accordance with ecological principles, hiring the Norwegian architect Ole Sondresen to do this. This not only gave her a clear conscience, but also resulted in Bird being the first New York store to be awarded an LEED cer-tificate for its construction, in conformity with ecological principles. Further recognition followed: ‘Best Women’s Boutique’ according to New York Magazine, ‘Top Vision- ary Boutique’ according to Lucky Magazine and even the illustrious New York Times devoted a lengthy article to Bird.Thomas Henkelmann, th@step-magazin.de

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DESIGNER

Going without means anything but missing out – as the young Italian label L’F Shoes has successfully proved. Standing behind this mnemonic name is creative pair,

Licia Florio (L) and Francio Ferrari (F), who founded their own label in Piedmont, north Italy, in 2010. The fashion de-sign graduate and her artist and photographer partner have made it their mission to inject a touch of irony to traditional Italian shoe artisanry. They primarily manufacture unisex styles, all of which do away with laces and tongues – con-verting traditional brogues into slip-ons instantaneously. If this idea sounds minimalistic, it is, in fact, an inexhaustib-le pool of creativity. What Florio and Ferrari save on the fabric, they more than make up for with materials and co-lours. They experiment with pink glitter, shimmering silver and colourful seaside prints. Cork, vinyl, chunky plateaux, gaudy splashes of colour and striking soles turn every L’F

shoe into a true statement. Courage has paid off for both of the shoe designers: their designs are not only featured regularly in the Italian Vogue, but they have also teamed up with hip fashion labels like MSGM and Camo, who appre-ciate the unconventional and refreshing approach to shoe design. Just as much as their customers do. Some 70 stores around the globe stock L’F Shoes, including large depart-ment stores, online shops and luxury boutiques. Which just goes to prove that going without sometimes does make us a whole lot better off. www.lfshoes.comKarolina Landowski, kl@step-magazin.de

ToplessNo laces. No tongue. Just a magnificent personality – the tagline of Italian shoe label L’F Shoes certainly hits the nail on the head.

Creative duo: Licia Florio and Francio Ferrari are partners – both in their professional and private lives.

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DESIGNER

Caroline Robert has a penchant for simple things.

Plain shapes, luxurious materials

and soft shades – Pairs in Paris

positions itself with fashion understate-ments and timeless

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Two become oneThe French sneaker label Pairs in Paris is characterised by high-quality materials and a harmonious mix of streetstyle and elegance.

H igh-end unisex sneakers are already two a penny in the market, and these are now joined by another new label, Pairs in Paris, which combines conser-

vative design with the finest workmanship – without do-ing away with sophisticated touches. And what is rather unusual in the male hipster-dominated, highly competi-tive sneaker business, is that behind this brand stands a woman. Following her training with a tailor-made shoe-maker, the designer Caroline Robert designed many seasons’ worth of shoes, bags and jewellery for reputable French fashion houses. Last year, she turned her dream of a lifetime into reality when she founded her very own sneaker label. She founded Pairs in Paris together with her partner Antonin Waterkeyn, a graphic designer and collector of rare sneaker styles.

Fascinated by simplicityHer début collection for spring/summer 2015 instantly wooed purchasers at the Parisian fashion show Prem- ier Classe. This comes as no surprise as these sneakers are bang up to date with their pink and taupe shades, graphic perforations and contrasting snakeskin toecaps. Alongside the premium-quality leather used, the unusu-al yet discreet details are equally impressive. The soles are made of milky, transparent rubber, the ends of the laces are dipped in copper or 14-carat gold and the pad-ded inner soles are removable. Trademarks of the rea-sonably sized collection include monochrome combina-tions of material such as suede and leather, as well as the inclusion of mesh details. The collection includes just three styles: a low cut, high top and a running silhouette. Caroline Robert is fascinated by simple, natural materials and has a knack for incorporating elegant stitching. The styles, which were designed in Paris and manufactured in Portugal, will be celebrating their German première at Premium in Berlin. www.pairsinparis.frKarolina Landowski, kl@step-magazin.de

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Statement storeThe British shoe manufacturer, Joseph Cheaney & Sons, has launched a newly designed store on London’s Jermyn Street. The work of Checkland Kindleysides has certainly raised the bar when it comes to store design.

L ondon’s Jermyn Street is renowned primarily as the home of prestigious men’s outfitters, long-standing purveyors of shirts, and exclusive leather goods

shops. The tradition of selling fine, sophisticated wares for distinguished gentlemen dates back to the 17th century. It comes as no surprise, therefore, that a bronze sculpture of the first dandy, Beau Brummell, adorns the street. And a few months ago, Jermyn Street added another string to its bow, when the long-standing company, Joseph Cheaney, opened a new flagship store here. Joseph Cheaney has been manufacturing typically Bri-tish shoes since 1886. For many years, the Northampton-based company never really made much of a name for itself. Since the 1960s, the company has belonged to the more well-known manufacturer, Church & Co, before becoming part of the Prada group. Five years ago, two cousins, Jonathan and William Church – fifth-generati-on shoemakers and members of the Church dynasty – recognised the brand’s potential and purchased Joseph Cheaney. Since then, the company, which manufactures its

shoes in their entirety in England, has enjoyed continual growth. Since 2009, the company has doubled its revenue and conquered new markets, such as China, South Korea, Russia and, in particular, Japan. The five stores in England’s capital have played a significant role in this success story.

Made in EnglandThe design of the new store is the work of Checkland Kind-leysides. “We wanted to break away from the perception of traditional British shoes being linked exclusively to fac-tors such as heritage and tradition, and being showcased in stores with lots of dark wood and brown leather,” exp-lains Jeff Kindleysides. “To ensure that the Joseph Cheaney store stands out from its neighbours on Jermyn Street, we developed a very light design, which also underlines the fact that the shoes are ‘Made in England’. This is the rea-son why we have built a shop that says: ‘We manufacture all of our shoes in England.’” The sales area is split into two: while the design of the front part of the shop incor-porates different elements related to shoe manufacturing, the ambiance of the rear part can be compared with that of a traditional English club. The entrance is reminiscent of the factory in Northampton, with whitewashed walls, metal display stands and glass features. The focal point in the store is a long table, partly dedicated to a 1:100 scale model of the Cheaney factory. In the back area, which is primarily used for trying shoes on, a dark wall is hung with gold-framed portraits of Joseph Cheaney and his son Arthur. Typical shoemakers’ tools, lasts and leather sam-ples add the finishing touch to the atmosphere. “Our brief was to convey the essence of our history in a fresh and contemporary design. Checkland Kindleysides has clearly managed to make a statement in Jermyn Street – one that redefines the image of our brand,” adds William Church. Helge Neumann, hn@step-magazin.de

Joseph Cheaney & SonsJermyn Street 21b, London SW1Y 6HP, Englandwww.cheaney.co.uk

Caption: The new Joseph Cheaney store opened its doors in August 2014.

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DurableAvant-garde made in Riga: as well as houses, the architect Elina Dobele also designs shoes. And not just any old shoes, either.

“Shoes have a lot in common with architecture in terms of function, technology and aesthetics,” ex-plains the Latvian designer. After several years’ experience as an architect, she founded her own atelier ZoFa – Riga’s first design studio for shoes. It is a platform for creation, sustainable business concepts and traditional handcraf-ted shoes, and a well-established meeting place for the city’s crea-tive talents. Based on the assump-tion that shoes are small houses for the feet, Elina injects her architectural experience into de- signing avant-garde men’s and ladies’ styles. No design comes any-where close to contemporary trends. Elina concentrates on the shape, colour and comfort of each and every style – with a penchant for black. “Every shoe is handcrafted from a collection of memories,” explains Dobele. The reputation of her unique designs has travelled as far as Russia, Germany, Great Britain and Japan. www.elinadobele.com P

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LIST OF SHOES EXHIBITORSUPDATED ON 17/12/14

LIST OF LEATHER GOODS EXHIBITORSUPDATED ON 17/12/14

CREDITS: CORDIALEMENT & ALEXIS PAZOUMIAN

-INTERNATIONAL FASHION ACCESSORY TRADE SHOW

-Paris Porte de Versailles

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23 - 26 JAN. 2015

Our contact for Germany : Exalis GmbH+49 (0) 30 6107 30 66 - whosnext@exalis.de

0-105 / WANTED SALOME, 5 Y MEDIO, ALDO CASTAGNA, ALEPH MENDEL, AMBIANCE, ANAKI, ANNE THOMAS ACCESSOIRES, APOLOGIE, ARCHE, ASH, ASPIGA, ATELIER MERCADAL, ATELIER VOISIN, ATTILIO GIUSTI LEOMBRUNI, AZUREE, BAGLLERINA, BARLEYCORN, BARONS PAPILLOM, BASE LONDON/FISH N CHIPS, BEECHIC, IO?ION!, BETTY BOOM, BICHO, BLACKSTONE, BLU VELVET, BLUNDSTONE, BONNARUEBONNARUE ,SKEVE, BOSABO, BUFFALO, BUNKER - BKR, CAFE NOIR, CANDICE COOPER, CAPRICE, CHANIOTAKIS, CHIE MIHARA, COCLICO , COCOROSE LONDON, COLORS OF CALIFORNIA, CORSO ROMA, 9, CRIME LONDON, CULT, DESIGUAL, DONNA CAROLINA, DPC MEEK, EDDYDANIELE, ELIZABETH STUART, ELLIPS, ELODIE BRUNO, EMMA GO, ESPINELA, EVA VS. MARIA, FABIO RUSCONI, FAGUO, FRANK WRIGHT, FRU.IT, GAIA D’ESTE, GAIMO ESPADRILLES - GAIMO, GEORGE’S HAND MADE, GIOVANNI FABIANI, GOLA CLASSICS, GUILHERMINA, HEP’Y PARIS, HOMERS, HOWSTY, HUB FOOTWEAR, HUDSON SHOE AGENCIES, INUOVO, IPPON VINTAGE, JOUR FERIE, KANNA, KEIKA, KENNEL & SCHMENGER SCHUHMANUFAKTUR, KOST, LA BOTTE GARDIANE, LA CHARENTAISE TCHA, LAIDBACK LONDON, LE TEMPS DES CERISES / JAPAN RAGS / NO BOX FOOTWEAR, LEDUEBI, LEMON JELLY, LES P’TITES BOMBES / TOO MUCH, LO.E ACCESSOIRES, LOUISE DELORIS , LSQ, LUNDI BLEU, M. MOUSTACHE, MAGDALENA K, MANAS, LEA FOSCATI, MARCO TOZZI, MARIKA, MASCARO, MAURICE MANUFACTURE, MEDUSE, MEHER KAKALIA, MEL DREAMED BY MELISSA, MELLOW YELLOW, MEXICANA, MIISTA, MINNETONKA, MINORQUINES, MIPACHA , MISS ANIMALIER, MOMA, MOU, MUSTANG SHOES, NR RAPISARDI, OLI13, OPERA NATIONAL DE PARIS, P A I R S IN P A R I S, PAPUCEI, PARABOOT, PASHA JEWELRY FOR YOUR FEET, PAT, PEDRO MIRALLES, PERTINI, PETITE MENDIGOTE CHAUSSURES, PRETTY BALLERINAS, PURO, RACHEL ZOE /AERIN, RÆVE D’UN JOUR, RANSOM, REBECCA BALDUCCI, REDSKINS CHAUSSURES, ROBERTA CENCI, ROVERS, RUTHIE DAVIS, S.OLIVER SHOES, SABBIE, SAND’ALL, SANDALES DE THADDEE, SAPENA SPAIN - VERACRUZ, SARGOSSA, SENDRA BOOTS, SERAFINI, SIXTYSEVEN, STEPHANE GONTARD, STRATEGIA, JFK, BRYAN BLAKE, SUECOMMA BONNIE, T.U.K. SHOES/ DUDE SHOES, TAKE ME, TAMARIS, TATOOSH, TEVA, THE JACKSONS, TO BE ANNOUNCED , YES , DESIRE, TOSCA BLU SHOES, UNDERGROUND, US POLO ASSN, VAGABOND SHOEMAKERS, VEJA, VOLARE, WAL AND PAI, WAU, WOOLINGS, WORISHOFER, XPERIMENTAL SHOES, YALL SHOES, YULL, ZESPA AIX-EN-PROVENCE, ...

112 MOUNTAINYAM, A. BELLUCCI, ABACO - OCABA, ABRO, ACOSTA, ALBEDO, ALCHIMIA, ALEANTO, ALEN2, ALEX.MAX, ALINFINI, ALL-TIME FAVOURITES, ANA MAISON, ANGLO, ANITA BILARDI, ANNA KASZER, ANNABEL INGALL, ANTONELLO, ANTONYME BY NAT & NIN, ANWR-GARANT FRANCE, ARCADIA, ARIDZA BROSS, ARTICLES DE PARIS, AU-DELA DU CUIR (ADC), AVEC MOTO, B. BELT, BABASHDESIGN, BANANA MOON BAGS, BARBARA RIHL, BEATRIZ FUREST BARCELONA, BECKSONDERGAARD COPENHAGEN, BERACAMY PARIS, BERTINI, BET BARCELONA, BILLY BELT, BONFANTI MADE IN ITALY, BONNIE&BAG, BRUNO ROSSI , BRUNOCENERE, C-OUI, CAPOVERSO, CAROL J, CATERINA LUCCHI, CATHERINE GAILLARD, CATHERINE PARRA, CBL PARIS, CERISE & LOUIS, CHARLIE BAKER LONDON, CLANBAGS, CLARAMONTE, COABAN, COSMIQUE GLOBAL, COURONNE, CRAIE, CUCARELIQUIA ESPA„A, CUSTOMI, CYAN, DALALEO, DAVIDT’S, DEGRA, DELICIOUS AGENT, DESIGN GO, DEUX LUX, DIMORA PERVV/DIMORA PER NENAH, DMR TOUCH, DUU’, EBARRITO, ELITE, ELITE DESIGN, SHIELD, EN SHALLA, ERFURT LUXURY ACCESSORIES, ESTELLON, EXQUISITE J, FF, FIGUEIRA, FIORELLI, FLORIA - FREDERIC T, FNDMV, FOLKLO BY KA, FRANCA C, FRANDAMI, FST HANDWEAR, GABRIELA VLAD, GARAGE PAR REVEIL, GERARD HENON, GIANNI CHIARINI, GIANNI CONTI, GRANDISON LONDON GLDN, C GRAND LONDON, GROOM, HEDGREN, HOMANZ, HOUSE OF CASES, I-CLIP, INA KENT, IPHORIA, IRENE FERRARA, JACK GOMME, JEAN-LOUIS FOURES, JUMP, JUMPFROMPAPER, KAEM, KART, KASSIOPEA, KILESA, KIMEKO, KONTESSA, L’AIGLON, TUMI, AZZARO, EDEN PARK, ADIDAS, L’AURA, LA BAGAGERIE, LA CARTABLIERE, LAETITIA, LAMAURI, LAURA DI MAGGIO, LAUTEM, LE SAC DU BERGER, LËA TONI, LEBAAG, LIA NUMA, LILI RADU, LITTLE MARCEL, DEELUXE, BEST MOUNTAIN , LILI PETROL, SMASH, RUCKFIELD, LOLLIPOPS, LOXWOOD, M’APPAZZA, MADAME FOLIE, MADE IN EDEN, MAISON BOINET, MAISON CONNIE, MAISON THOMAS, MAJO, MAKARON, MAMAN&ROSE, MAMET, MARIA LA ROSA, MARIE MARTENS, MARIONA SANTPERE BARCELONA, MARTINE SITBON PRIVƑ, MARTINICA, MAXIMA, MEN KAI, MERCULES, MIKA SAROLEA, MILA LOUISE, MODALU ENGLAND, MOHEKANN, MONFLAUD, MUUN, MY CHOICE, MYWALIT.COM, NAKWA, NAT MAD, NATERRA, NICA, NICOLE LEE, NUMERO 22 / LE PANDORINE, OFFICINE FEDERALI, OLGA BERG, OTILIA FLONTA, PAPA RAZZI, PAQUETAGE, PARIS HOUSE, PASSERIN-NONPAREIL, PAUL MARIUS, PEPE JEANS, DISNEY, PETITE MENDIGOTE, PHYNES, PLINIO VISONA’, POLDER, RACHEL GE, RAISON D’ÆTRE, REPTILE’S HOUSE, RO, ROBERTA GANDOLFI, ROBERTA PIERI, RODTNES, RONCATO, S’AMUSER, SABATIER, SABRINA, SACCOO, SANDIE PRAUX PARIS, SAVE MY BAG, SELLIER, SERGIO RENATO, SHANA 8TH AVENUE, SILLERIA, SKIMP, SOUS LES PAVES..., STELLA RITTWAGEN, STREET LEVEL / 7CHI, TAESEOK KANG EH LONDON, TALENTED, TAMMY & BENJAMIN, TAT, TED LAPIDUS / JACQUES ESTEREL, THE DOT, TINTAMAR, TITAN - TRAVELITE, TOSCA BLU, TOSCANI, TRAVIESA , TREASURES, UNABORSA, VARRIALE, VÄSKA, VENDULA LONDON, VIAMAILBAG, VIOLE DEL RE, VIVE LA DIFFERENCE MADE IN ITALY, VOLKER LANG, WENDEE OU, WHERE ELSE, WHITE, ZEDE, ZUBI, ...

STORES

FlagshipThe great passion with which the owners run the Berlin store Soto oozes from every square inch of the boutique.

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Timeless basics and outstanding designer items are showcased on an

equal footing in Berlin’s Soto Store. The atmosphere is reminiscent of

a hip apartment in an old building, ridding customers of any inhibitions

before they even have chance to surface.

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STORES

Soto StoreTorstrasse 72, 10119 Berlin, Germanywww.sotostore.com

T he shop was founded by three friends who, at one point, realised that they shared similar views in terms of life in general and, more specifically, when

it came to fashion. The owners Philip Gaedicke, Omer Ben-Michael and David Fischer have been heavily in-volved in the fashion scene for many years, the latter two primarily in online trading. Everything was clear, how-ever, right from the very beginning – if they were ever to set something up together, then they didn’t want it to be virtual. They wanted to create a tangible, bricks-and-mortar store. Direct contact with people is of great impor-tance to all three of them, which is how the cool store on Torstrasse in central Berlin came about in April 2010. The concept of the store is simple: “We sell products that we like and that reflect our lifestyle. This applies to clothes and shoes, as well as books, designer items and art. We mix premium street wear with high-end brands, and stock a whole load of basic, as well as experimental, items. We put style first and foremost, instead of expensive labels and logos,” explains Philip Gaedicke. The aim is to provide a contemporary perspective of men’s fashion every season. With the diverse mixture of European, American and Asian designers – from casual to elegant – there’s something to suit everybody’s tastes.

Never-ending new inputThe trio get their inspiration primarily from their travels in the USA and Asia. Particularly in New York and Tokyo, there is a staggering store scene and a huge range of new brands that are largely unheard of in Europe. This overwhelming abundance of new impressions is a never-ending source of input for the very essence of the Berlin store. At the moment, Norse Projects, Our Legacy, Nana-mica, Han Kjobenhavn, Thom Browne, Acne, Kenzo, Nike and Common Projects Sneakers are particularly popular among customers. The portfolio also includes Carven, Buttero, Andersen Andersen, Diemme, Dries Van Noten, Grenson, Jil Sander, Libertine Libertine, Orlebar Brown,

Les Berlinois and Levi’s Vintage Clothing. And even if the Soto store was only really designed for men, women also drop in regularly to browse through the clothes racks and shelves. They are mostly interested in nice basics, such as men’s shirts, sweaters, jackets and accessories.

Pure relaxation The strong casual look to the boutique is alluring. Everything is designed to be bright and inviting. The spa-cious store revolves around the symbiosis of old and new. Second-hand gems are juxtaposed with classic furniture, plain clothes racks rub shoulders with modern art, and books and perfumes are arranged on old, large suitcases. The majority of the fittings blend into the background, let-ting the merchandise take central stage. Eye-catchers are dotted throughout the store. Particularly fetching items are showcased on the most unusual supports. Insistence on the relaxed tone was important when the store design was being developed and implemented. The aim was to overcome customers’ inhibitions and reservations right from the outset. If a shop manages to attract passers-by to come inside and have a look around, a great deal has been achieved. Of course, the staff plays an important role in this context, significantly contributing to the store’s suc-cess with their professional, yet discreet, manner. Essen-tially, Soto wants to position itself as a meeting place. “We want to provide information. In other words, we want to bring our customers closer to extraordinary products and the design philosophy behind the brands. This is what our passion is all about.”Thomas Henkelmann, th@sternefeld.de

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Dressed to impressWindow dressing arouses emotions, transports beholders to worlds of fantasy or simply creates desire for the latest fashion. step reveals the most important inspirations from Paris to Tokyo.

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Shining bright: glamour and glitter are traditional ingre-dients for Christmas shop windows around the world. London has seen outstanding creativity again. Selfridges have hung this season’s ‘in’ accessories in a golden spider’s web, while Harvey Nichols has transformed its shop windows into a fabulous, glittery enchanted forest.

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SHOPPING

www.penther.deCUSTOM-MADE MANNEQUINS

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SHOPPING

Gravity: the new shoes, accessories and flower arrangements at Lanvin are floating like surreal still lives. Louis Vuitton is featuring flying balloons, while tentacles are reaching out for this season’s new clutch bags at Fendi in New York. This comes as a contrast to effective minimalism: plain fluorescent bars at Chloé and a bright scarlet string pattern at Cerruti.

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SHOPPING

Soft shades: mystically glowing mountain crystals reflect this season’s soft colours. At Gucci, shoul-der bags and clutches are floating through the air as if by magic, while Valentino’s window models are flaunting the new pastel fashions. Lime is currently one of the most important accent colours and lends black and white designs a refreshing note.

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SHOPPING

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Comic worlds: window dressers have borrowed their inspiration from the graph- ic novels of the super-nerd universe. They are illuminating graphic skylines or hanging ankle boots on dramatic, 2D mountains of waste paper. The French men’s outfitter, Berluti, has illustrated a whole apartment in its trademark black and white.

MAVIS.DE VISUAL-MERCHANDISING-WORLD.DE

VISUAL CONCEPTION DIGITAL SIGNAGE SOURCING PRODUCTION POS STEERING GLOBAL ROLLOUT

BRAND STAGING

AT THE POS

www.step-magazine.com

Brand new! read twice a year as print magazine or e-paper and visit our

website for daily news on fashion

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NEWS

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Making ofMadness behind the scenes of the step photo shoot. What was the outcome? Two fantastic covers that are poles apart.

As the hairless cat Marvin first came into the Düsseldorf atelier owned by stylist Rolf Buck the whole team was a little bemused. And then it was love at first sight. Sadly, though, Marvin’s lively nature meant that he never made it onto the front cover. However, the photographer, Do-menik Broich, managed to show-case the models Keziah and Ala-nah (Notoys agency) both perfectly – pure and unadulterated, without any animal distractions. They wore breathtaking outfits by German designers Irene Luft and Marina Hoermanseder and a spectacular make-up by Elke Pflips.

1. Hair & make-up artist Elke Pflips creates a sophisticated hairstyle for model Alanah.

2. Behind the scenes: the set in Rolf Buck’s atelier.

3. Second cover features: a leather corsage by Marina Hoermanseder, fluffy feathers and a hairless cat.

4. The first choice for the cover.

5. Quickly touching up lips in the break.

6. Love is in the air – despite a few ups and downs, these words sum up the atmosphere on the set perfectly.

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27.02. – 01.03.

12.09. – 14.09.

TERMINE 2015

Messe Offenbach GmbH Kaiserstr. 108 -112 · D - 63065 Offenbach am Main Fon + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 0 · Fax + 49 69 - 82 97 55 - 60 www.messe-offenbach.de · info@messe-offenbach.de

HERE FASHION COMESTO LIFE. FEAST YOUR EYES. SAVOR OUR WORDS. DEVOUR EVERY INCH AND ANGLE. BREATHE IN OUR UNIQUE ATMOSPHERE. REVEL IN INSPIRATION.SAY I LOVE YOU. SAY I HATE YOU.HEAR THE COLORS.

LISTEN TO YOUR IDEAS. GET A FRESH START.

HERE YOU ARE FREE. HERE NOTHING CAN STOP YOU. DON’T GIVE UP ON

ANYTHING. PURSUE YOUR DREAMS. NOW AND FOREVER.

THIS IS WHERE YOUCOME TO LIFE.

We dedicate this event to all the players in the fashion world, bringing together, here in Paris, under the Première Vision banner and in a shared venue, all the different experts in :

premierevision.com10 - 12 February 2015

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Conquering a new worldThree worlds, one platform: Footwear companies are able to enter new fashion segments by means of the new business portal ‘TEXTILES-CONTACTS’.

Footwear & Fashion – for many people they ‘somehow’ belong together. The ‘somehow’ has be-

come more and more a ‘definitely’ throughout the years. The borderlines between each segment are diminishing. And the footwear industry is increa-singly putting its feelers out towards fashion. But prospective clients have problems in the beginning, as they are not able to find the right contacts. The new B2B platform TEXTILES-CON-TACTS applies right at this point. It offers companies an extensive database to develop a successful network. And thereby to break into the fashion mar-ket, too. “With TEXTILES-CONTACTS, we would like to facilitate the entry for the footwear industry into fashion,” says Michael Plank, Managing Director of portal specialist m2b and in charge of the new platform. “It is about taking ad-

vantage of synergies and entering new business areas.” The portal is also in-teresting for an international audience: “Especially foreign new entry brands do not know about the peculiarities of the complex European market,” Micha-el Plank said. TEXTILES-CONTACTS should help them get started as well.

Thinking outside the boxThe principle: Brands and companies place ads on the website of TEXTILES-CONTACTS and connect themselves with distributors and sales agencies that way. The feature ‘CONTACT-FINDER’ provides another database with more than 15,000 fashion business contacts – and it is increasing constant-ly. In order to get an even clearer view, 16 subcategories, like Streetwear, Kids or Denim, are integrated. As new as TEXTILES-CONTACTS might be – the platform is placed on

a strong base. About ten years ago Michael Plank already successfully established a B2B platform by the name of ‘SPORTS-CONTACTS’ for the sport industry. In 2012 the second step followed with ‘SHOES-CONTACTS’. The complementary portal TEXTILES-CONTACTS was a “logical develop-ment”, according to Plank. “Because the combination of these three worlds implies the future for brands, retail and distribution.” An assumption supported by many companies. That is why brands like Giesswein or Ragwear placed their first orders on the website even be-fore the official start of TEXTILES- CONTACTS had been announced.Combined with already existing sport and footwear contacts, com-panies can access more than 50,000 international industry contacts. And take the right step into the future. www.textiles-contacts.com

Welcome to the international

B2B matchmaking platform for

professional distribution solutions.

www.textiles-contacts.com

Find your direct contactto more than 15.000

executives, distributorsand sales agents around

the fashion, bag andlifestyle world.

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PREVIEW IMPRINT

Verlag Sternefeld GmbH & Co KGOberkasseler Strasse 100 | 40545 Düsseldorf | GermanyPostfach 11 12 49 | D-40512 Düsseldorf | Germanytel.: +49 (0) 2 11-5 77 08-0 | fax: +49 (0) 2 11-5 77 08-12/-90www.sternefeld.de

PUBLISHER:Michael Brumme

EDITOR IN CHIEF:Petra Salewski, tel. - 21, (person responsible for content according to German media law), e-mail: ps@step-magazin.de

ASSISTANT EDITOR IN CHIEF:Karolina Landowski, tel. - 24, e-mail: kl@step-magazin.de

EDITORIAL TEAM: Helge Neumann, tel. - 20Kristina Schulze, tel. - 39Michael Frantze, tel. - 25e-mail: step.redaktion@sternefeld.de

THIS EDITION’S AUTHOR: Thomas Henkelmann

PHOTOGRAPHY: Cover: Domenik BroichStreetstyles: Stela Alves

GRAPHICS/LAYOUT: Claudia Reich, tel. - 34

MANAGING DIRECTOR: Michael Brumme

PUBLISHING COORDINATOR: Caroline Witzlau, tel. - 31, e-mail: cw@sternefeld.de

MEDIA & MARKETING DIRECTOR: Sabine Peters, tel. - 27, e-mail: sp@sternefeld.de

MEDIASERVICE: Denise Arndt, tel. - 33, e-mail: da@sternefeld.deDivya Weiß, tel. - 37, e-mail: dw@sternefeld.deKerstin Weihs, tel. - 38, e-mail: kw@sternefeld.de

Rate card 20 is applicable from 01/01/15.

SALES DIRECTOR:Dagmar Brumme, tel. - 26, e-mail: db@sternefeld.de

SUBSCRIPTION SERVICE: Tanja Müller tel. +49 (0) 2 11 - 5 77 08 - 28, fax +49 (0) 2 11 - 5 77 08 - 12,e-mail: vertrieb@sternefeld.de, Oberkasseler Strasse 100, 40545 Düsseldorf, GermanyPostal address: Postfach 111249, 40512 Düsseldorf, Germany

step international publishes two issues, each one to coincide with the begin-ning of the order season.

step also publishes two issues in German for German, Austrian and Swiss read- ers, as well as stepguide as an order booklet and stepkids.

schuhkurierOfficial institution of Bundesverband des Deutschen Schuheinzelhandels e.V. (German association of shoe retailers) and official institution of schuhschweiz (Swiss shoe retail association)

Reprinting is forbidden unless authorised by the publishers and accom- panied by detailed references. Articles printed do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the editors. The publishers cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited manuscripts that are submitted. In the event of force majeure or industrial disruptions, the publishers cannot be held liable for failure to supply and are not liable to provide compensation. The ülace of fulfilment and jurisdiction is Düsseldorf.

PRINTED BY:W. Kohlhammer Druckerei GmbH & Co. KG, Augsburger Strasse 722, 70329 Stuttgart, Germany

Preview 2/2015FASHIONThe most important fashion and shoe trends for spring/summer 2016

BRANDSGaletWeekend BarberChloe Gosselin

STORESRoses & Dreams, MiamiDamage Playground, Rotterdam

international

Milano: Piazza Duomo

HIGHLINE UNITED SHOWROOMS:Lyonel-Feininger-Str. 28, 80807 München, O1 Mainhausen, EG Nr. 0.03

KONTAKT:Telefon 0049-89-2 44 11 89-0, Email info@highlineunited.eu

PREMIUM EXHIBITIONS BERLIN 19-21 JANUARY 2015 H5-F02GDS DÜSSELDORF 4-6 FEBRUARY 2015 STUDIO CONCEPT HALL 9, B38/C37