STRAIGHTENING - sweethair.com.br · hair or the straightening process occurs only after their...

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LOVELY & THE FIRST

TRAINING BOOKLET

STRAIGHTENING

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TABLE of CONTENTSThe Brand 3

History of Straightening 4

Anatomy and Physiology 6

Chemical Bonds 8

Denaturation 10

Alkaline Straightening X Acid Straightening 12

Physical Sensitization 17

Lovely Straightening 18

- Temperature Guide 22

The First 30

- Safety Appraisal Report 32

- Temperature Guide 33

FAQ 44

Exercises 45

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WE ARE THE BRAND

“For 5 years, we have built a complete brand, we are

represented by innovation, technology and refinement”

We, from Sweet Hair Professional, h a v e a d i f f e r e n t i a t e d p r o p o s a l a n d , t h r o u g h

constant innovations, promote unique experiences for each one of our clients.The products are carefully developed, based on market studies. This way, we generate new technologies, fragrances and specific ingredients for each hair type.

Always acting in a bold and innovative manner, Sweet Hair Professional counts with a visionary and fast team in the development of new actions and products.

More than 30 mill ion peoplehave already tr ied...

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OF STRAIGHTENINGHISTORY

The evolution of the straightening processes in the 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and 2000 brought several proposals for the hair, but all of them still caused damages to the hair fibers or to health in general. That was until 2011.

The 1950sSodium Hydroxide, which is nothing more than caustic soda, was introduced in the market in an attempt to straighten the hair, but the consequences caused by this process were very harmful. It could cause burns, string breakage, rashes on the scalp and even

blindness.

The 1960sThe fashion was Henê. Incompatible with any other chemical process, slow application, tarnished and without any possibility of color other than black. The only way to change the color of the hair or the straightening process occurs only after their growth.

The 1970sIt was the time of the Ammonium Thioglycolate. Besides being a careful and time consuming process for the application, it is still necessary to refrain from washing the hair for 48 hours without being able to fold it, tie it or smash it. It cannot ne utilized in all hair types either, for incompatibility.

The 1980sThe time of the Lithium Hydroxide. Smoother and slower compared to Sodium Hydroxide and less versatile. But it doesn’t have results in all hair types. More indicated for the very curly and not colored hair.

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The 1990sGuanidine ruled. A substance with alkaline pH that penetrates in the cortex. Not recommended for resistant hair or with coloring two shades above in relation to the natural shade. It is also not indicated for hair that has been subjected to other chemical processes due to the incompatibilities that may generate chemical cuts and severe sensitization of the string structure, without considering the aggressiveness it may cause in the scalp.

The 2000sFormaldehyde. One decade to the detriment of health. It became the main chemical process for straightening, even forbidden by Anvisa since 2005. A product with surprising results. Even with its asphyxiating odor. Professionals and customers surrendered to the eminent hazards of Formaldehyde. It destroys mucous membranes (nose and mouth) due to inhalation, hurts the scalp, may provoke inflammation and sores on the skin, and may even lead to female baldness. The professionals exposed to this product may develop serious diseases.

The 2011sThe era of the Acids. A new proposal in hair straightening, with the aim of replacing Formaldehyde, without damaging health, safe and compatible with all the chemical processes. The only detail is the time consumed, being necessary to iron 15 times to obtain the straightening result.

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HAIRTHE

The main constituent protein of the hair strand isalpha-keratin, a protein formed by the chain of a great number of amino acids. Out of the 25 amino acids that occur in the proteins, 18 are present in keratin, which comprises more than 85% of the hair structure. This protein stands out for its high content of disulfide bonds, that is, for the high content of sulphur connections among residues of the cysteine amino acid.

HAIR STRUCTURE

- Natural fibers, Keratinized.- Has elasticity and great resistance.- Protects the scalp from solar rays and heat.- Divided into three layers: CUTICLE, CORTEX AND MARROW.

COMPONENTE % AÇÃO

Protein 70-85% Promotes strengthening and resistance

Water 10-15% Flexibility

Lipids 3-6% Maintains the hair soft

Pigment 1% Color

Minerals 0,05-0,5% Attract and make the proteins unite

Carbohydrates 0,1-0,5% Intercell cement that mixes moistureand the proteins

LEARN MORE ABOUT HAIR ANATOMY AND PHYSIOLOGY

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CUTICLE - Colorless.- Protection of the cortical cells.- Penetration barrier from chemical agents.- Easily damaged by physical, chemical and mechanic effects.

CORTEX- The intermediate part of the hair strings.- Represents greater component: approximately 88% of the hair structure.- Compact structure.- Responsible for the hair curve.

MARROW- Central canal of the string.- In contrast to the cuticle and the cortex, the marrow does not have a known function.

ATOMSAMINO ACIDS

PROTOFIBRIL

MACROFIBRIL

CORTEX FIBERS CUTICLE LAYERS

HELIX

MICROFIBRIL

The curve and form of the cross-section are genetically controlled and vary according to race.

When the curve is large, we have curly hair.

When the curve is small or inexistent, the hair is wavy or straight.

Mongoloid Caucasoid Negroid

HAIR TYPES AND FORMS

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BONDSCHEMICAL

BONDS THAT STABILIZE THE KERATIN STRUCTURE

- Hydrogen bonds or bridges- Salt bonds or bridges- Disulphide bonds or bridges (sulphur)

O

O

H S

S

CH2 C

C C CH2O

NH2 O

CH2CH2

CH2

CH2

CHO

HydrogenBond

Disulphide

SaltBond

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Hydrogen Bonds

The Hydrogen bonds are the weakest ones. When we wet the hair, the Hydrogen and Oxygen atoms attract each other electrostatically, breaking the Hydrogen Bonds.

This way, the “breakage” of the hydrogen bonds occurs with water (wet hair) and whenthe hair dries the ends are formed again.

Salt Bonds

They have intermediate strength.

The Salt Bonds may be broken with the use of strong alkalis or acids, making it possible to establish ionic bonds.

Disulphide Bonds

A Disulphide bond results in the formation of cystine. This kind of covalent bond is ten times stronger than the previous bonds.

Formed when one sulphur atom bonds to another neighbor chain amino acid (amino acid-cysteine).

Broken by reducing and oxidizing agents.

H

H

O O

H

H

O O

H

H

O O

Hydrogen Bond

H

H

H CN O

O+ -

H

H

H CN O

O+ -

H

H

H CN O

O+ -

Salt Bond

Disulphide Bond

S S

S S

S S

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The average pH value of the natural hair structure comprises the range from 4.5 to 5.5

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

The influence of pH in the determination of the degree of hair fiber edema (swelling) where extreme ranges, such as acidic and basic, cause a structural opening, have demonstrated that the pH range between 2.0 the 9.0 causes a minimum 30 degree of swelling. Nevertheless, the extreme ranges below 2.0 and above 9.0 confer swelling, that is, increase of the hair fiber diameter, providing a greater reactional contact surface and enable the occurrence of chemical reactions in the cortex. 1 3 5 7 9 11 13

30 Additionof HCI

Additionof NaOH

% S

wel

ling

pH

The disorganization of the protein structure or new arrangement is called denaturation, and it is a process of breakage of weak non-covalent bonds, which maintain the structure. Some processes that cause the Denaturation do not have enough energy to break the Disulphide bonds, so the primary structure remains intact.

Normal Protein Denaturated Protein

Denaturation

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The proteins may be denaturated by the following factors:

Heat: Increasing the temperature, you increase the movement of the protein atoms, making the weak bonds that maintain the structure break.

Organic solvents: Solvents that dissolve in the way denaturate protein because they trigger in the normal water medium.

Acids and bases: They cause denaturation because they change the distribution of positive and negative charges in the protein. The pH change effect varies with the kind of protein. Keratin may support strongly acid pH (below pH 2) or strongly basic pH (pH above 9).

Oxidizing and reducing agents: These agents usually denaturate proteins, affecting the sulfhydryl group of the amino acid cysteine. This effect is the base of the “permanent waving” because keratin, hair protein, contains a great quantity of cysteine. A reducing agent (Ammonium Thioglycolate) breaks the Disulphide bonds existent in the protein first.

TEMPORARY STRAIGHTENING

Wet hair

Conditioning agent + Heat = physical and mechanical process

Hot Comb Method

The hair is straightened utilizing vaseline and a hot metallic comb, in which its temperature varies from 150 to 250°C;

Vaseline works as lubricant, so thatthat the comb slides easily through the hair;it is a temporary straightening, as moisture, excessive sweating and rain make it go back to the natural form.

DISADVANTAGE: It is not utilized nor recommended anymore, as it easily burns the scalp and hair.

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CHEMICAL STRAIGHTENING

Henê

Henê is a cosmetic product for hair treatment used as straightening coloring and moisturizing product for wavy, curly or coarse hair.

It has a creamy consistency, black or dark brown color and an intense characteristic odor.

Active ingredient: Pyrogallic Acid

A study investigates the “composition effects and pH and mutagenic activity of pyrogallol”.

Since 1976, the European Community maintains pyrogallol on the list of forbidden substances as ingredients for cosmetics.

In Brazil, however, it is still allowed without restrictions by the Brazilian Health Surveillance Agency (Anvisa).

Researcher José Luiz Mazzeida Costa reports that, although studies have shown for a long time that this compound induces DNA mutations, his research proves that the intensity of pyrogallol in inducing genetic mutation varies in different pH conditions and in the presence of other substances.

ALKALINE STRAIGHTENING X ACID STRAIGHTENING

In the reactional medium between acid and alkaline there is the promotion of denaturation of keratin, which results in a change in conformation, breaking Hydrogen, Salt and Disulphide bonds.

The alkaline permanent straightening aims to break the disulphide bonds of keratin, resulting in the reduction of the hair curve, in a long-lasting manner.

The chemical straightening products have an action to the hair string which is very similar to the permanent waving agents, as they are chemical agents that break the disulfide bonds of the hair keratin. Besides that, the Alkaline straightening process brings more damage to the hair fiber, as they tend to break more Sulphur bonds between amino acids of the Keratin.

The commonly and traditionally used straightening agents are Sodium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide, Guanidine Hydroxide (formed by the reaction of Guanidine Carbonate and Calcium Hydroxide), Ammonium Thioglycolate or Ethanolamine, which is also an alternative of alkaline straightening.

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Classification of alkaline straightening active ingredients

The mechanism of the straightening process depends on the constituents of the utilized product. This way, the straightening products may be divided into two main categories:

- Straightening products with reducing agents;- Straightening products with hydroxides.

Straightening products with reducing agents The most common reducing agents are Thioglycolic Acid and its derivate, such as Ammonium Thioglycolate, Ethanolamine Thioglycolate, AMP Thioglycolate. They act on the hair keratin, breaking the disulfide bonds between the cystine units, forming cysteine, the main component of keratin. Reduction reaction of the disulfide bonds of keratin by Thioglycolic Acid.

CH S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

2

CH2

CH2

CH2 CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH SH

SH

SH

SH

SH

SH

SH

HS

HS

HS

HS

HS

HS OH

O

C

HS

HS

2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

CH2

Thioglycolic acid

cadeias separadascabelo natural

The Thioglycolic compounds, such as Ammonium Thioglycolate are more adequate for straightening processes in which the hair has already been damaged by previous chemical treatments and present and characteristic odor.

On most cases, Ammonium Thioglycolate (Thioglycolic Acid with Ammonium Hydroxide) is utilized in a solution between 7.5-11% and pH between 9 and 10, and provides a milder straightening than with the straightening products from the hydroxide group (metallic salts).

Neutralization

There is the need of re-oxidization or neutralization to finish the process.

This process is necessary for the hardening of the new structure formed.

For these neutralizers, Hydrogen Peroxide is used with water in acid medium (citric, lactic, acetic).

We may add conditioning, foaming and thickening agents to facilitate the application.

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Straightening products with hydroxides The metallic hydroxide based straightening products must contain in their formulation one or more from the following substances: Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide, Magnesium Hydroxide, Guanidine Carbonate and Calcium Hydroxide.

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

OH

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

C C

S

S

S

S

S

S

S

pH 12

Disulphide Eliminationof the Sulphur

Formationof Lastíomina

The Disulphide bonds breakage reaction by the straightening products containing metallic hydroxides is called lantionization, in which the replacement of one third of the cystine amino acids by lanthionine occurs.

The action mechanism of the straightening products containing metallic hydroxides is based on the high pH to which the hair strings are subjected. Firstly, when the cream with metallic hydroxides is applied on the hair, the high pH of the product (pH 11 to 13) causes swelling of the fiber, causing the opening of the cuticles, resulting in the exposure of the cortex to the alkaline agent (OH-). Inside the cortex, the straightening substance reacts with the keratin, breaking and rearranging the disulphide bonds. The breakage of these bonds denaturates the hair strings, making them malleable and subject to straightening.

Neutralization

After its action, the utilization of an acid shampoo is required to neutralize the remaining alkalinity.

They are moisturizing shampoos with pH between 3.5 to 4.5.

They balance the pH from (12.5) to 6.5 to 5.0, making the cuticles close and stopping the process.

The constitution of the hair fiber, its interactions with the acid straightening products, is a not-so-technically-discussed class regarding the alkaline straightening products, that is the reason for the importance of the comprehension of this detailing.

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The acid reactional medium reacts through condensation with the amine groups of the peptides present in the hair fiber.

Heating in acid medium (straightener) does not affect the amino acid sequence, but causes transformations in the molecule, resulting in the insolubilization of the proteins, denaturation, biopolymerization reactions of these compounds, that is, the formation of a hydrophobic structure (reason for the straightening effect withstanding the wet environments and promoting more dure of the effect).

Concerning the hair straightening products that have an acid pH (average of 0.5 to 2.0), the presence of free formaldehyde in their composition was not determined, as its breakdown would require that they were subjected to high temperature values, a fact that does not occur during their storage at room temperature.

Studies demonstrate that three simultaneous conditions are required so that glyoxylic acid releases formaldehyde:

1. Temperature above 500 ºC, being that its best performance is at 652 ºC;2. Environment next to absolute vacuum;

3. Acid purity of 98%.

Without these three conditions, it does not release formaldehyde

Acids

Products have arisen with the purpose of straightening the hair in an acid medium with finalization through thermal processes by hair dryers and thermal straighteners up to a temperature of 230°C.

The most common acids utilized for hair straightening are Glyoxylic Acid, Carbocisteine (Oxo acetamide), Pro liss and Seriliss.

O O O O OCH3

OHH O2

OC C C C C CC C

H HH

H

NH H H N

CH3

OHOH{Glyoxylic acid Amina Hair

Amide bond

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According to Brazil (2000), the cosmetic preparations are framed into four categories - hygiene products, cosmetics, perfume and childcare products - and are classified according to the degree of risk they offer, given their use purpose:

- Degree 1 products: products with minimum risk, such as facial or body soap, shampoo, after-shaving lotion, moisturizers, lipsticks, perfumes, among others;

- Degree 2 products: products with potential risk, such as products intended to children, anti-aging or anti-cellulite cream, bleach, dye, photoprotectors, among others;

For the risk classification of the product, criteria such as product use purpose, body area utilized, how to use and chemical characteristics of the substances present in the formulation are utilized (BRASIL, 2000).

After this classification is defined, the hair straightening products are framed into the category of Cosmetic Products and framed in the classification as degree 2 products, that is, products with potential risk (BRASIL, 2000).

The products with risk degree 2 are products with specific indications, whose characteristics demand proof of safety and/or efficacy, as well as information and care regarding the mode and restrictions of use”.

Due to the risk that may be presented by these substances to their users, the sanitary legislation updates the list of allowed or forbidden substances in straightening products, besides updating the record of these cosmetic products and the concentrations already proven as safe and effective.

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Chemical Sensitization X Incompatibility

When we talk about chemical incompatibility, we refer to products that cannot be used simultaneously, once they act at the same location within the string structure. When we talk about products that are compatible, we mean different actions, which do not provoke chemical cut, that is, breakage of the string by the reactions they trigger.

On the other hand, all the chemical processes generate chemical sensitization, in varied degrees. The alkaline agents utilized as straightening or waving products cause a high degree of chemical sensitization of the string structure when compared to acid agents.

Besides the chemical components, we know that other factors generate sensitization, such as mechanical traction, heat, exposure to environmental factors, etc.

Concerning the thermal straightening procedures with acidic bases, we do not generate chemical incompatibility with other agents. However, the lack of diagnosis and the utilization of the wrong heat source (normally higher than the hair health can withstand) may increase the hair sensitization a lot and, as a consequence of that, string breakage may occur, not for chemical incompatibility, but for excess of sensitization resulting from the excessive use of heat during the chemical procedure.

TEMPERATURE

Temperature is a physical measurement utilized to measure notions of cold and heat.

The temperature difference allows the transference of heat, which we may call thermal energy.

Such transference always occurs from a object with higher temperature to the one with lower temperature, until it reaches thermal balance.

THERMAL- PHYSICAL SENSITIZATION

Some proteins denaturate from 40°C to 45°C. At temperatures from 100°C to 130°C, the denaturation of the hair keratin starts.

When the temperature is maintained below 230°C, the keratin loses its original form, and starts having a new format. Above 250°, an extreme denaturation starts, losing its elasticity. At a temperature higher than 300°C or 350°C, there is not hair anymore.

THERMOSTAT

In most of the straighteners, there is a temperature adjustment and control system, denominated THERMOSTAT, which has the purpose of preventing the temperature from varying to less or more. The thermostat has two devices: the first one is a sensor that indicates the temperature variation and the second one corrects the occurred deviation, maintaining the temperature inside the desired time frame.

Three different scales are commonly utilized to describe temperature

FAHRENHEIT (°F) CELSIUS (°C) KELVIN (K)

450°F 230°C 503K

410°F 210°C 483K

356°F 180°C 453K

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LOVELYSTRAIGHTENING

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The first line to transform coarse hair into straight hair through a combination of acids and proteins. It ensures safety in its application and has compatibility with all the existing chemical products.

The Lovely Straightening provides the professionals with freedom, promoting straightening, volume reduction, frizz elimination, reconstruction, nourishment and hydration. Captivating everyone with its performance, quality and innovation.

Understand how it works

- It is a synergic hair straightening system of acids and nanotechnology.

- It acts realigning the strings by molecular interaction between the hair hydrogen and salt bonds.

- Its composition has affinity with the hair keratin, promoting the replacement of the protein mass.

FOR ALLHAIR TYPES

STRAIGHTENINGREDUCTION OR

SHIELD

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THE LOVELY STRAIGHTENING CONTAINS THREE STEPSShampoo – Step 1

Active ingredients: Rosemary Extract, Propolis Extract and Menthol.Benefits: It acts in the opening of the cuticle, promotes effective cleansing and treatment for the scalp, oiliness control, and does not dry the hair.pH: 9.0How to Use: Apply on the wet hair, massaging in circular movements and rinse. At the second application, let it act for 5 to 10 minutes and rinse 100%.Packages: 980 ml 500 ml Quantity per application: 20 ml Yield: 49 applications Pause time: 5 to 10 minutes Hair types: all the hair types

NOTES:

CHEMICAL COMPATIBILITY TABLE

THIOGLYCOLATE GUANIDINE SODIUM H COLORING DISCOLORATION FORMALDEHYDE CARBOCISTEINE LOVELY STRAIGHTENING

THIOGLYCOLATE OK X X OK D OK D OK

GUANIDINE X OK OK D X OK D OK

SODIUM H X OK OK D X OK D OK

COLORING OK D D OK OK OK OK OK

DISCOLORATION D X X OK OK OK D OK

FORMALDEHYDE OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

CARBOCISTEINE D D D OK D OK OK OK

LOVELY STRAIGHTENING OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

THE FIRST OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

OK = COMPATIBLE X = INCOMPATIBLE D = WITH RESTRICTIONS

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG

AVERAGE QUANTITY PER APPLICATION

30ml to 50ml - Short to medium hair 50ml to 70ml - Medium to long hair 70ml to 100ml - Long hair100ml to 150ml - Extra-long and thick hair

Use the temperature according to the strings health!

Healthy hair 230ºC / 450ºF Fragile hair 180ºC to 200ºC/375ºF to 410ºF

IMPORTANT DETAILS FOR THE SUCCESS IN THE APPLICATION

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Hair Treatment – Step 2

Active ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glyoxylic Acid.Benefits: Provides straightening, volume reduction, Botox, anti-frizz, shielding, reconstruction.pH: 1.35How to Use: After drying 80% of the hair, apply it over the length and ends, respecting the distance of 1 centimeter from the scalp. Allow it to act for 20 minutes and rinse 100%.Packages: 980 ml 500 ml Quantity per application: 50 mlYield: 20 applications Pause time: 20 minutes Hair types: all the hair types Durability: 3 months to 5 months

NOTES:

Touch Of Silk – Step 3

Active ingredients: Plant Keratin, D-Panthenol, Blend of silicones, Cocoa Butter. Benefits: Promotes hydration, nourishment, reconstruction, color shielding and straightening durability.pH: 5.5How to Use: Apply it with the wet hair, let it act for 5 minutes and rinse 100%.Packages: 980 ml 500 ml Quantity per application: 20 g Yield: 49 applications Pause time: 5 to 15 minutes Hair types: All hair types Durability: 3 to 7 washings

NOTES:

Temperature X Thickness of the lock

Taking into account that temperature is the transference of heat from a hot medium to a cold medium, the thickness of the lock significantly influences the heat transfer process.

The greater the thickness of the cold surface, the slower the energy absorption process or heat transfer is. Thus, it is understood that the thinner the hair lock, the greater the greater the temperature retention will be, which will provide better quality of thermal straightening.

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TEMPERATURE GUIDE FOR STRAIGHTENING

In order to obtain optimal straightening result, it is necessary to conduct the hair structure diagnosis in order to determine the proper temperature according to the health of the strings

HairThickness

Roots(healthy)

Length (healthy)

Ends(healthy)

FINE Hair 15 X 230ºC 15 X 230ºC 15 X 230ºC

MEDIUM Hair 15 X 230ºC 15 X 230ºC 15 X 230ºC

THICK Hair 15 X 230ºC 15 X 230ºC 15 X 230ºC

HairThickness

Roots(healthy)

Length(damaged)

Ends(damaged)

FINE Hair 15 X 230ºC 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C

MEDIUM Hair 15 X 230ºC 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C

THICK Hair 15 X 230ºC 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C

HairThickness

Roots(damaged)

Length(damaged)

Ends(damaged)

FINE Hair 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C

MEDIUM Hair 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C

THICK Hair 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C 15 X 180ºC a 200°C

STRAIGHTENING RESULTS

Hair Types(fine, medium or thick) Straightening Percent

Straight Base 100%

Wavy Base 100%

Curly Base 100%

Coarse Base without form 100%

Very Coarse Base (resistant) 70% a 90%

NOTE: On resistant hair to ensure the 100% result, utilize theRESISTANT HAIR step by step.

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1ST - Hair diagnosis

2ND Wash the hair with the 1st step Shampoo, on the second washing let it act from 5 to 10 minutes and rinse.

3RD Dry the hair 80% with the aid of the hair dryer.

4TH - Apply the 2nd Step Hair Treatment all over the hair, leaving 1 centimeter of distance from the scalp.*Separate the hair into sections, to have more control of the application, using a fine-toothed comb.

5TH Let it act for 20 minutes.

6TH Rinse thoroughly.

7TH Dry the hair 100% and iron the whole extension of the strings, from the roots to the ends 12 to 15 times on each lock, with the temperature from 230°C or 450° F.*Tip: On sensitive hair, the straightener temperature must reach a maximum of 200 °C or 400° F.

8TH Wet the hair and still at the washbasin, apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the hair, let it act for 5 minutes and rinse.

9TH Dry it and finalize the hair as you wish.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG


30ml to 50ml - Short to medium hair50ml to 70ml - Medium to long hair70ml to 100ml - Long hair100ml to 150ml - Extra-long and thick hair




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1ST Hair diagnosis






7TH Still at the washbasin, apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the hair, let it act for 5 minutes and rinse.

8TH Dry the hair 100% and iron the whole extension of the strings, from the roots to the ends 12 to 15 times on each lock, with the temperature from 230°C or 450° F.*Tip: On sensitive hair, the straightener temperature must reach a maximum of 200 °C or 400° F.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening - Faster process

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG


30ml to 50ml - Short to medium hair50ml to 70ml - Medium to long hair 70ml to 100ml - Long hair100ml to 150ml - Extra-long and thick hair




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1ST Hair diagnosis






7TH Dry the hair 80% with the aid of the hair dryer once more.8th Repeat the application of the 2nd Step Hair Treatment all over the hair, leaving 1 centimeter of distance from the scalp.

9TH Allow it to act for 20 more minutes.


11TH Dry the hair 100% and iron the whole extension of the strings, from the roots to the ends 12 to 15 times on each lock, with the temperature from 230°C or 450° F. 12TH Wet the hair and still at the washbasin, apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the hair, let it act for 5 minutes and rinse.

13TH Dry it and finalize the hair as you wish.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening - Afro and resistant hair

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG



Use the temperature according to the strings health! Healthy hair 230ºC / 450ºF

Fragile hair 180ºC to 200ºC/375ºF to 410ºF


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1ST Hair diagnosis

2ND Wash the hair with the 1st step Shampoo.


4TH - Apply the 2nd Step Hair Treatment all over the hair, leaving 1 centimeter of distance from the scalp. It is important to start the process of applying the product from the back part of the head.

5TH Allow it to act for 15 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

6TH Dry the hair 100% with the aid of the hair dryer.

7TH Separate the hair into thick locks and iron the strings from the roots to the ends, 6 to 10 times, at a temperature of 180ºC to 230ºC (or 375ºF to 450ºF).

8TH Wet the hair and still at the washbasin, apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the hair, let it act for 5 minutes and rinse.

9TH After rinsing it is finalized.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening - Volume Reduction

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






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1ST Hair diagnosis.

2ND Wash the hair with the 1st step Shampoo and repeat the operation. Rinse.

3RD Apply the mixture of one portion of the 2nd Step Hair Treatment + two portions of the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the wet hair, and let it act for 20 minutes. E.g.: 10 ml of 2nd Step Hair Treatment + 20 ml of 3rd Step Touch of Silk = 30 ml total


5TH Dry the hair 100% and iron the whole extension of the strings, from the roots to the ends twice on thick locks, with the temperature of 180°C or 375°F.

6TH After the straightener, the hair is finalized.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening - Shielding of the strings

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






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1st Hair diagnosis.

2nd Wash the hair with the 1st step Shampoo, on the second washing let it act from 5 to 10 minutes and rinse.

3rd Dry the hair 80% with the aid of the hair dryer.

4th - Apply the 2nd Step Hair Treatment all over the hair, leaving 1 centimeter of distance from the scalp. Separate the hair into sections, to have more control of the application, using a fine-toothed comb.

5th Let it act for 20 minutes.

6th Rinse thoroughly.

7th Dry the hair 100% and iron the whole extension of the strings, from the roots to the ends 12 to 15 times on each lock, with the temperature from 230°C or 450° F.*Tip: On sensitive hair, the straightener temperature must reach a maximum of 200 °C or 400° F.

8th After straightened, take it to the washbasin, wash the hair with moisturizing shampoo and condition the hair to raise its pH. Rinse 100%.

9th Dry the hair 100% and apply the dye.

10th After rinsing the dye, apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the hair, let it act for 5 minutes and rinse.

11th Dry the hair to finalize it.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening - Coloring

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG



Use the temperature according to the strings health! Healthy hair 230ºC / 450ºF

Fragile hair 180ºC to 200ºC/375ºF to 410ºF


29

1ST Hair diagnosis.



4TH - Apply the 2nd Step Hair Treatment all over the hair, leaving 1 centimeter of distance from the scalp. Separate the hair into sections, to have more control of the application, using a fine-toothed comb.



7TH Dry the hair 100% and iron the whole extension of the strings, from the roots to the ends 12 to 15 times on each lock, with the temperature from 230°C or 450° F.

*Tip: On sensitive hair, the straightener temperature must reach a maximum of 200 °C or 400° F.

8TH After straightened, take it to the washbasin, wash the hair with moisturizing shampoo and condition the hair to raise its pH. Rinse 100%.

9TH Dry the hair 100% and conduct the chosen discoloration method (e.g.: streaks, highlights, Californian highlights, etc.)

10TH Tone the locks.

11TH After rinsing the toner, apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk on the hair, let it act for 5 minutes. Rinse.

12TH Dry the hair to finalize it.

STEP BY STEPLovely Straightening - Discoloration

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG


30ml to 50ml - Short to medium hair 50ml to 70ml - Medium to long hair70ml to 100ml - Long hair100ml to 150ml - Extra-long and thick hair




30

THE FIRSTSTRAIGHTENING

SHAMPOOIN THE WORLD

Benefits

Formaldehyde Free

Compatible with any hair chemical

International appraisals

3-month duration

Does not damage the strings

Faster procedure

High performance results

Minimum use per application: 50ml

31

UNDERSTAND HOW IT WORKS

The First is a shampoo composed by a blend of acids, which join the simple proteins of the hair. Through the interaction with the heat source, it generates the straightening of the strings.

The active ingredients that compose The First are organic acids that present themselves in a tridimensional form, interacting in the cortex, the internal structure of the hair.

The First Shampoo has affinity with the hair keratin and, through the acidity, promotes the denaturation of the protein. As this straightening is not a permanent process and it does not break the disulphide bonds, it ensures the safety of compatibility to other chemical processes, and renaturation may occur (the hair returns to the normal structure from 6 to 9 months).

OF THE HAIR WITHOUT THE BREAKAGEOF THE DISULPHIDE BONDS

DENATURATION

+

+

+

---

+

+---

+

++

+

+

-

---

-

+

+

++

--

-

-

The structure of The First Shampoo contains an anionic characteristic, causing a negative electric charge (anionic ions) that makes the strings try to repel each other. For having pH 2, it promotes hair swelling, and the denaturation starts.

With the cuticles opened by The First Shampoo, the conditioner is necessary. The conditioner has substances that leave the hair with positive electric charge (cationic ions). This balances the charges of the hair, making it neutral much easier to comb. It closes the cuticles and restores its nutrients

32

The First was developed in the form of shampoo, with the main purpose of facilitating the application and reducing the straightening procedure time inside the salons. The acids that constitute the formulation are combined in distinct forms and proportions, aiming at the synergic creation of the alteration reaction in the salt bonds. Separately, the acids do not have specific functions for the hair string structure.

The research conducted in our laboratory demonstrate that, when we promote the alteration of the Hydrogen and Salt Bonds present in the hair through the combination of these acids, that enables us to alter its form temporarily through the application of heat generated by the straightener, molding it in the straight format. We noticed that, although we have an acid pH in the product, when we apply it on the wet hair, we raise this pH, in order to have a balance in the structure and, this way, not damage the strings.

The First acts in an acid medium, promoting the denaturation of the strings protein when associated to the heat source derived from the flat iron. The blend of acids that composes the formulation so not capable of promoting the breakage of the disulphide bonds, as it does not have enough energy for that. This way, the straightening process occurs through the action of the acids on the Hydrogen and Salt Bonds plus a heat source, which triggers breakdown or denaturation (breaking of the weak non-covalent bonds), leaving the primary structure of the hair intact. For not promoting breakage of the disulphide bonds, the thermal straightening of The First is temporary, taking from 9 to 12 months after the last application for the hair to return to its original form.

None of the active ingredients present in the composition of The First transforms into or releases formaldehyde when heated.In all our tests, we managed to observe that there was not incompatibility with other chemical processes, prior or performed after The First. However, it is a professional product and, as such, requires analysis and diagnosis of the strings in order to determine which temperature will be utilized in the straightener, in such a manner as not to cause damage for excess of heat.

When it concerns pregnant women or people who have some kind of health problem, we recommend that they obtain medical authorization to perform the procedure.

Here we have a photo of a string after the application of The First. In this picture, we may observe that there are not damages in the string structure with the use of THE FIRST.

SAFETY APPRAISAL

We have healthy hair We have the hair processed with the traditional The First step the step

We have the hair in image 2 washed once more, processed with The First

We have the hair in image 3 washed once more, without detecting damages in the hair fiber

33

Temperature X Thickness of the lock

Taking into account that temperature is the transference of heat from a hot medium to a cold medium, the thickness of the lock significantly influences the heat transfer process.

The greater the thickness of the cold surface, the slower the energy absorption process or heat transfer is. Thus, it is understood that the thinner the hair lock, the greater the greater the temperature retention will be, which will provide better quality of thermal straightening.

TEMPERATURE GUIDE FOR STRAIGHTENINGIn order to obtain optimal straightening result, it is necessary to conduct the hair structure diagnosis in order to determine the proper temperature according to the health of the strings.

Hair Thickness Roots(healthy) Length (healthy) Ends

(healthy)

FINE Hair 7 X 230ºC 7 X 230ºC 7 X 230ºC

MEDIUM Hair 7 X 230ºC 7 X 230ºC 7 X 230ºC

THICK Hair 7 X 230ºC 7 X 230ºC 7 X 230ºC

Hair Thickness Roots(healthy) Length (damaged) Ends

(damaged)

FINE Hair 7 X 230ºC 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C

MEDIUM Hair 7 X 230ºC 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C

THICK Hair 7 X 230ºC 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C

Hair Thickness Roots(damaged) Length (damaged) Ends

(damaged)

FINE Hair 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C

MEDIUM Hair 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C

THICK Hair 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C 7 X 180ºC a 200°C

Tipos de Cabelos (finos, médios ou grossos) Porcentagem de alisamento

Straight Base 100%

Wavy Base 100%

Curly Base 100%

Coarse Base without form 100%

Very Coarse Base (resistant) 70% a 90%

NOTE: On resistant hair to ensure the 100% result, utilize theSEMI-PERMANENT step by step.

STRAIGHTENING RESULTS

34

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG

Remove the moisture from the hair in 80% with a towel and, if necessary, use the hair dryer.


50ml - Short to medium hair50ml to 70ml - Medium to long hair70ml to 100ml - Long hair100ml to 150ml - Extra-long and thick hair




Active ingredients: Hyaluronic Acid, Alpha-lipoic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid.

pH: 2

How to Use: Shake the package and apply from 50 ml of The First, according to the hair length and density of the hair. Spread throughout the extension of the hair and cover the strings until you obtain a dense and abundant foam, without scrubbing the scalp. Let it act for 20 minutes and rinse 100%.

Packages: 980 ml Quantity

per application: 50 ml

Yield: 20 applications.

Pause time: 20 minutes.

Hair types: All hair types.

CHEMICAL COMPATIBILITY TABLE

THIOGLYCOLATE GUANIDINE SODIUM H COLORING DISCOLORATION FORMALDEHYDE CARBOCISTEINE SWEET STRAIGHTENING

THIOGLYCOLATE OK X X OK D OK D OK

GUANIDINE X OK OK D X OK D OK

SODIUM H X OK OK D X OK D OK

COLORING OK D D OK OK OK OK OK

DISCOLORATION D X X OK OK OK D OK

FORMALDEHYDE OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

CARBOCISTEINE D D D OK D OK OK OK

SWEET STRAIGHTENING OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

THE FIRST OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

OK = COMPATIBLE X = INCOMPATIBLE D = WITH RESTRICTIONS

35

Before the application of The First, perform a pre-washing with anti-residue shampoo, to remove the impurities and oiliness, if necessary.

1ST Wet the hair and, with the aid of a towel or hair dryer, remove the maximum of water excess from the strings, nearly 80%.

2ND Shake the package and apply from 50 ml of The First, according to the hair length and density. Spread throughout the extension of the hair and cover the strings until you obtain a creamy foam, without scrubbing the scalp.NOTE: DON’T ADD WATER TO MAKE FOAM.

3RD Allow it to act for 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Use some conditioner to disentangle the strings, if needed.

4TH Dry the hair 100%. Separate the hair into thin locks and iron the strings from the roots to the ends, 5 to 7 times, at a temperature of 180ºC to 230ºC (or 375ºF to 450ºF).Temperature according to the strings health. Iron it in a slow and continuous manner.

STEP BY STEPStraightening

We recommend to the pregnant women to consult a physician before using and children only above 12 years old, with their parents’ authorization.

APPLICATION IN PREGNANT WOMEN AND CHILDREN

SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






36







6TH Dry the hair 100% and apply the dye.

7TH After rinsing the dye, apply the Hair Cream Cronology on the hair. Let it act for 7 minutes and rinse.

8TH Dry the hair.

STEP BY STEPStraightening and Coloring



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






37







6TH Dry the hair 100% and conduct the chosen discoloration method (e.g.: streaks, highlights, Californian highlights, etc.)

7TH Tone the locks.

8TH After rinsing the toner, apply the Hair Cream Cronology on the hair and let it act for 5 minutes. Rinse.

9TH Dry the hair.

STEP BY STEPStraightening and Discoloration



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






38





4TH After rinsing, apply the Platinum Mask and let it act from 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse 100%.


STEP BY STEPStraightening for blond hair



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






39




3RD Allow it to act for 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly. Dry the hair 80%.

4TH - Apply the 2nd Step Hair Treatment. With the aid of a fine-toothed comb, distribute it throughout the hair.Allow it to act for 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly.


STEP BY STEPSemi-permanent Straightening



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






40



2ND Mix to each 35 ml of The First shampoo, 15 ml of the Toning Shampoo (according to the hair length and density) and apply. Spread throughout the extension of the hair and make circular movements until you obtain a creamy foam, without scrubbing the scalp too much. NOTE: DON’T ADD WATER TO MAKE FOAM.

3RD Allow it to act for 10 to 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

4TH Dry the hair 100%. Separate the hair into thin locks and iron the strings from the roots to the ends, 5 to 7 times, at a temperature of 180ºC to 230ºC (or 375ºF to 450ºF)

Temperature according to the strings health. Iron it in a slow and continuous manner.

STEP BY STEPBotox for blond hair - anti frizz



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






41




3RD Allow it to act for 20 minutes and rinse thoroughly.

4TH Apply the Cronology Treatment Mask. Let it act for 7 minutes and rinse 100%.

5th Dry the hair 100%. Separate the hair into thin locks and iron the strings from the roots to the ends, 5 to 7 times, at a temperature of 180ºC to 230ºC (or 375ºF to 450ºF).Temperature according to the strings health. Iron it in a slow and continuous manner.

STEP BY STEPStraightening, reconstruction and nourishment



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






42





4TH Apply the 3rd Step Touch of Silk. Let it act for 15 minutes and rinse 100%.


STEP BY STEPStraightening - Hair Mirroring



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






43



2nd Shake the package and apply from 50 ml of The First, according to the hair length and density. Spread throughout the extension of the hair and cover the strings until you obtain a creamy foam, without scrubbing the scalp.NOTE: DON’T ADD WATER TO MAKE FOAM.


4TH Dry the hair 50% and apply the Impact Shock Step 1 SOS on the damaged


STEP BY STEPStraightening - Damaged ends repair



SHORT

MEDIUM

LONG

EXTRA LONG






44

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Does the Lovely Straightening or The First contain ammonia, hydroxide or formaldehyde?Answer: Totally free from ammonia, hydroxide and formaldehyde. We have test reports that prove that the Lovely Straightening or The First does not contain or release these substances during the application.

Can I have hair coloring/toning or discoloration soon after applying the Lovely Straightening or The First?Answer: We recommend that the process of coloring / toning or discoloration is conducted soon after the flat iron. Wash the hair with a moisturizing shampoo and condition it so that the hair pH increases and shortly after perform the coloring or discoloration.

After a straightening process with ammonia or sodium/guanidine hydroxide, can I have a Lovely Straightening or The First on the same day?Answer: There is no need for that. In order to obtain a straighter effect on resistant hair (negroid hair), we recommend to conduct the form of application for resistant hair as detailed in our catalog.

Does the Lovely Straightening or The First have the power to trigger any irritation on the eyes and scalp?Answer: The Lovely Straightening and The First are safe and antiallergic. Therefore, it does not cause irritation on the eyes, skin and/or scalp.

Can I perform the Lovely Straightening or The First on pregnant women and children?Answer: As it is antiallergic, it is not inadvisable. But it is important to obtain a medical authorization.

Is the Lovely Straightening or The First compatible with hene/henna?Answer: The Lovely Straightening and The First is compatible with all the chemical processes. However, in cases like hene/henna, a diagnosis is required to determine the degree of sensitization of the hair.

What is the optimal temperature of the straightener for a Lovely Straightening or The First?Answer: For healthier and more resistant hair, the optimal temperature is 230ºC. In extremely porous and damaged hair, the temperature is of 200°C to 180°C.

Can I utilize conditioner after rinsing The First?Answer: The First use has a shampoo structure. For that reason, you may utilize some conditioner to disentangle the strings.

45

EXERCISES1) For a perfect Thermal Straightening, which temperature should I utilize on the hair? Why?

2) 2) What is the optimal temperature to straighten healthy hair?

A) 230°F B) 450°F C) 220 °C

3) Does The First on which hair bonds?

4) Can the greater pause time of Step 2 Lovely Straightening improve the result? Why?

5) Describe the kinds of straightening and their origin.

6) Describe the bonds we find on the hair.

7) Which is the most indicated way to perform The First coloring and straightening? Why?

The customer wishes to make use of The First straightening, but the hair conditions are: part 3, natural; part 2, coloring 9.13 and part 1, relaxation with damaged texture. What is the form of application and finalization? Justify.

46

9) The customer wishes to apply The First straightening on the hair, but the conditions are: part 2, natural and part 1, Californian highlights at the 10.01 height. Can it get yellow? What is the temperature? What is the form of application?

10) What is the function of the 1st step of the Lovely straightening?

11) On resistant hair, what is the way to work with The First straightening?

12) After the utilization of The First, can we apply a mask?

1

2

3

1

2

47

BIBLIOGRAPHYUcko, David A., Química para as Ciências da Saúde: Uma Introdução à Química Geral, Orgânica e Biológica, São Paulo: Manole 1992

Halal, John, Tricologia e a Química Cosmética Capilar, Cengage Learning 2011 Aqia Química Industrial - Apresentação Comercial Pro Liss

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Sweet Hair Call CenterRua Coelho Lisboa,556 - Tatuapé-SP

Tel.:+55(11)2227-8600/[email protected]

sweethairbrasil sweetprofessional

sweethair.com.br

since 2011

ExpertsThe

Our Experts are always committed to make the best anywhere in the world, so that you can enjoy the best Sweet Hair can offer.

The Experts are hair stylist professionals who, besides being acknowledged worldwide, they have a broad knowledge regarding the Sweet ideals and the products with their forms of application. This way, they are highly qualified to provide all the necessary information.

Date post:	08-Nov-2018
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