SUNJIN CHEMICAL CO. SINCE 1978 November 2008 Gem stones 32 Moisturizing Pressed Powder 30 Urethane Bead: Anti Wrinkle Cream Formula 23 Use of micro beads in cosmetics 7 REACH 6 ECOCERT Make-up formula 5 Surface Treated Fillers: 4 Porous PMMA BEADS 27 Use of SH219 in Primer Use of SH219 in Skin Care 13 Theory of Soft Focus 12 High Refractive Index Silica Bead: SH219 11 Material Hybridization 9 ECOCERT materials 3 Company Overview 2 SILICA BEADS: 19 Natural Whitening: SUNSIL Tin NaturalWhite: 15 Mineral Powder Formula Blemish Balm(BB Cream) Instant Whitening Cream Formula 17 MICRO BEADS 25 PMMA BEADS: Moisturizing Lotion Formula 29 Fusion Color Cosmetics 31 Super water dispersible Porous PMMA 33 PMMA coated Pearlescent 35 PMMA coated Talc Triple composite bead SUNSIL TZin50AS SPF50, PA+++ Powdery Sun Block 61 UV synergy study 63 Regulation & Trend 38 Avobenzone Overview 39 UV FILTERS 37 OVERVIEW: 40 Hybrid PMMA with Avobenzone encapsulated Skin Irritation Test Photo-stability Test Mousse Foundation with SPF & PA High SPF & PA sun screen formula In vivo SPF data 47 Natural TiO2(ECOCERT) TiO2 encapsulated silica bead SUNSIL Tin40 51 Nano Zinc Oxide Natural Zinc Oxide 55 Aqueous TiO 2 , ZnO dispersion 57 Oil TiO 2 , ZnO dispersion SUN Spray Formula 59 Semi Spherical TiO2: UV Capsule 60 SPF50, PA+++ Pressed Powder PMMA Beads for Optics 67 PMMA Beads for Coating & Plastic 68 SILICONE GEL/Benzopheone 5 65 Surfactants 66 Others For more information, www.sunjinchem.com email: [email protected]6 THE TH Edition
Transcript
SUNJIN CHEMICAL CO.SINCE 1978
November 2008
Gem stones32
Moisturizing Pressed Powder30
Urethane Bead:Anti Wrinkle Cream Formula
23
Use of micro beads in cosmetics7
REACH6
ECOCERT Make-up formula5
Surface Treated Fillers:4
Porous PMMA BEADS27
Use of SH219 in PrimerUse of SH219 in Skin Care
13
Theory of Soft Focus12
High Refractive Index Silica Bead: SH219
11
Material Hybridization9
ECOCERT materials 3
Company Overview2
SILICA BEADS: 19
Natural Whitening: SUNSIL Tin NaturalWhite:
15
Mineral Powder FormulaBlemish Balm(BB Cream)Instant Whitening Cream Formula
17
MICRO BEADS
25 PMMA BEADS: Moisturizing Lotion Formula
29 Fusion Color Cosmetics
31 Super water dispersible Porous PMMA
33 PMMA coated Pearlescent
35 PMMA coated Talc
Triple composite beadSUNSIL TZin50AS SPF50, PA+++ Powdery Sun Block
61
UV synergy study63
Regulation & Trend38
Avobenzone Overview 39
UV FILTERS
37 OVERVIEW:
40 Hybrid PMMA with Avobenzone encapsulatedSkin Irritation TestPhoto-stability TestMousse Foundation with SPF & PAHigh SPF & PA sun screen formulaIn vivo SPF data
In vivo SPF45, PA++ Sun LotionIn vivo SPF50, PA+++ Sun Cream
47
Mousse Foundation SPF25, PA++ (SJF 0806)
44
SUN CARE
Fusion Color Cosmetics29
Surface Treatment MethodsWet coating vs. Dry coating
22
Instant Whitening18
Theory of Soft Focus12
Pearlescent for Skin Care33
White Sericite?35
UV synergy study I49
Use of Micro Beads7
REACH6
Material Hybridization9
UV synergy study II63
ECOCERT Materials3
ECOCERT Formula5
This is the 6th edition of the
company catalog. After the
release of the 5th edition in
October 2008, it has been
only a month but we have
mad a lot of progress as you
can see from this edition.
President’s Letter
SUNG-HO LEEPresidentSUNJIN CHEMICAL
SUNJIN Chemical has Agile minds with a unique
capacity to initiate and innovate. We are ready to
be your partners for your success.
Sincerely yours,
Page 2
Overview
Micro bead synthesis
Nano powder synthesis
Encapsulation & Composition
Surface treatment
TECHNOLOGY OVERVIEW
Dispersion
Organic synthesis
porous
nano & microencapsulation
hollow
Triple composition
solid
nano & micro
Plastic
Flat Panel Display: LCD, PDP
SUNJIN brings new concepts & new technologiesFrom other industries TO COSMETICS
Founded in 1978Headquartered in KoreaProduct Category: Cosmetic Raw Materials, Surfactants, Paint & Coating Raw Materials, Plastic, Optical MaterialsISO 9001 certified
1) % natural ingredients of the total of ingredients used : 97 % > 95 %2) % ingredients certified as Organic of the total of ingredients used : 5.5 % >5 %
As we have more ECOCERT formulas such as
Face PowderLip StickLiquid FoundationMake-up Base,
If you want to know more, please visit our homepage or contact us:
Porous Micro Beads can be used to “soak up” sebum produced from the skin surface.
When applied to the skin, the volatile material evaporates from the microsphere, leaving it empty and ready to absorb. If perspiration is absorbed, it is released as vapor, thus reducing wetness. If sebum is absorbed, it is isolated from the skin preventing oily feel and shine.
Optical blurring effect is widely applied to not only make ups but also skin cares
2. Sensorial ModificationReduce too much tackinessModification of TextureElegant feeling
3. Absorption, Release, DeliverySebum, oil absorptionSlow releaseLoading active ingredients
Micro Beads can alter the tactile qualities of a cosmetic- Initial contact- Application- After feel
Micro Beads can produce special textile effect like “cream-to-powder”
Can generate soft focus without increasing opacity or accentuating fine lines and wrinkles: creates a more natural looking appearance
Page 8
Use of Micro Beads: Examples
SKIN CARES
3um PMMA Bead 12%
8um Urethane Bead 4%
5um Silica 2.53%
15um Silica 3.92%
An Anti Wrinkle CreamRefining Cream and fluid Skin is relaxed, smoothed, visibly “re-plumped”, transformed! Ultra-comfort textures, oil free light fluid
A Night CreamAnti-Age Retexturing Night CreamUltra-nourishing renewal night cream
A Radiance CreamMaximum Radiance Creamskin care gets skin glowing, revealing its original radiance, maximize luminosity.
A Hydration CreamMoisturizing Body Lotion instantly enhances the skin. … spherical powders for a unique “powdery cotton”tactile effect.…
An Whitening CreamPower Whitening EssenceNow, shatter the look of dark spots with pinpoint accuracy…this silky opalescent serum helps prevent future discoloration
A Sun Screen CreamUV essential SPF45, PA+++Daily protection fluid for face. This high protection skincare products has a wonderfully soft texture. It offers a velvety, powdery, sheer finish. 4um PMMA 2%
3um Silica 5%
A Moisturizer For Oily SkinActive Anti-Shine MoisturizerA unique formula that absorbs and regulates excess shine with matifying technology Moisturizes without adding excess oil 8um Silica 3.58%
An Eye Care CreamVisibly Rejuvenating Eye CareBags and dark circles are less visible. With continued use, wrinkles are diminished and the eye area looks visibly younger. 4um Silica 2.86%
An Anti Wrinkle CreamCorrecting serum for Lines/Wrinkles/Age SpotInstantly see up to a 29% reduction in fine, dry lines. Skin is luminous.
13um Urethane Bead 20%
Make-Ups
Deodorants, Spray, Tissues
Base Make upFoundationPowder PactTwo Way CakeMake up baseConcealer
Point Make upLip stickEye shadowBlusherEye Pencil
Page 9
MATERIAL Hybridization: The Concept
Cosmetic raw materials have been used separately for different objectives traditionally…
But…
Can cosmetic raw materials be hybridized to have multiple functions combined like Digital Convergence in IT industry?
For example…
How about PMMA bead with sensorial effect and UV protection at the same time?
Digital Convergence @ IT industry
Material Hybridization @ Cosmetics by SUNJIN Chemical
Page 10
High Refractive Index Bead PMMA coated Pearlescent
MATERIAL Hybridization: Examples
Functional
Visual effect
SensorialSilica
SensorialSilica
FunctionalVisual effect
Functional
Visual effect
SensorialSilica
SensorialSilica
ColorWhite Pigment
Functional
Visual effect
SensorialSilica
FunctionalVisual effect
ColorPearlescent
PMMA bead with Chemical filter
Spherical White Pigment
Functional
Visual effect
SensorialSilica
SensorialPMMA
FunctionalUV Protect
Functional
Visual effect
SensorialSilica
FunctionalVisual effect
FillerTalc
PMMA coated Talc
Hybrid Materials,Only available from
SUNJIN
Page 11
Grade Composition(Silica/TiO2)
Refractive Index
Surface treatment
Silica Bead size /TiO2 crystal size
SH219 Silica 75% TiO2 25%
1.8 none 2~7㎛12nm
SH219-AS Silica 75% TiO2 25%
1.8 Alkyl silane 2~7㎛12nm
High Refractive Index Silica Bead
Optical Blurring
Korean Patent registeredNo. 10-0698935-0000No. 10-2002-0070544
Sample preparation: DC200F-100cs 50% KSG 16 + Powder Make 100%
5um SilicaWith 12nm TiO2
12nm TiO2
Page 12
THEORY OF SOFT FOCUS
Optical Blurring
160X22.8X
14.5X8.8XAt cyclomethicone 100% formula,
SH219 is more effective than silicone bead by 160 TIMES!
Fresnel LossWhen light rays cross the boundary from one medium t another, there is a loss due to reflection at the boundary, this is called Fresnel loss and is calculated with the following expression
Fresnel Loss = 100*(Rm-Rp)2/(Rm+Rp)2
Light Scattering TableBased on Refractive Index
Rm: Refractive Index of MediaRp: Refractive Index of Powder
7 SUNIOR-AS Iron Oxide Red/ Triethoxycaprylsilane 0.70
8 SUNIOY-AS Iron Oxide Yellow/ Triethoxycaprylsilane 2.00
9 SUNIOB-AS Iron Oxide Black/ Triethoxycaprylsilane 0.40
B
10 Salacos 99 Isononyl Isononanoate 4.50
11 KF 96-5CS Dimethicone 4.00
12 Carnauba Wax Carnauba Wax 0.50
13 KF7312J Trimethylsiloxysilcate 1.00
Guideline Formula: SJF-0802-Mineral Powder
“LIGHT AS A POWDER”
“EVEN SKIN TONE LIKE A FOUNDATION”
“Flawless coverage”
“Excellent Skin Spread”
“Silly Elegant Feel”
“LONG LASTING LIKE A FOUNDATION
“SPF15”
“ZINC OXIDE FOR SPF AND SKIN HEALING”
EVEN SKIN EVEN SKIN
Page 17
Blemish Balm(BB Cream)
NaturalWhite
Phase No. Trade Name %
A
1 ZINC STEARATE 1
2 SUNSIL-Tin Natural White 5
3 SUNTITAN-AS 4
4 SUNTALC-AS 2
5 SUNZNO-NAS 3
6 SUNIOR-AS 0.26
7 SUNIOY-AS 0.86
8 SUNIOB-AS 0.16
B
9 DC200 F-10CS 1
10 BENTONE 38VCG 0.7
11 TSF405 10.8
12 Parsol MCX 6
13 ABIL EM 90 2.5
14 PHENOXY ETHANOL 0.2
15 VITAMIN E ACETATE 0.1
16 DUB DNPG 3
17 KF6017 1.5
C
18 D.I. WATER 48.72
19 MP 0.2
20 1,3 BG 5
21 GLYCERIN 3
22 NaCl 1
Guideline Formula: SJF-0803-Blemish Balm What is a BB Cream?
BB Cream is pretty much the end all of foundation, concealer, moisturizer, etc....It's a combined product that eliminates manyproducts from your daily makeup routine and not only simplifies foundation but also offers key ingredients that we all look for in makeup and skin care.
BB Creams are highly moisturizing, contain SPF, have acne fighting and anti-aging ingredients, plus conceal and lay a foundation for your other makeup.
What BB Cream Eliminates from your daily routine:
MoisturizerBB Creams are so highly moisturizing you may or may not wish to apply a moisturizer prior to using!
SPFBB Creams contain doses of 25+ SPF so you don't need an extra SPF product to protect your skin from harmless sun rays!
Acne Treatments, Lotions, Etc...BB Creams contain active ingredients for fighting off problem areas!
Anti-Aging Lotions, Potions, Etc...BB Creams contain anti-aging ingredients to prevent wrinkles and also treat any fine lines you may already have!
ConcealerBB Creams act as a concealer for concealing under eye circles, baggage, etc...It also concealer acne, blemishes, red areas, etc...
FoundationBB Creams act as a foundation for prepping the skin for makeup and creating a flawless finish to skin!
Whitening Lotions, Fluids, Etc....BB Creams contain whitening agents to lighten the skin!
You can see why everyone is so hyper and excited about BB Creams. They are virtually the superman of foundation however they are not without their flaws.
Page 18
Instant Whitening for Whitening Cream
NaturalWhite
Phase No. Trade Name %
A
1 D.I-WATER 33.68
2 1.3-B.G 1.00
3 Glycerin 3.00
4 Allantoin 0.10
5 TEA 0.20
6 MP 0.20
B
7 Rheodol AO-15 0.30
8 Rheodol TW-S120 1.00
9 Rheodol MS - 165 0.50
10 TEGOSOFT DEC 4.00
11 KALCOHL 6870 2.00
12 EMERSOL132 1.00
13 TCG-M 5.00
14 TSF405 2.00
15 P.P 0.10
Guideline Formula: SJF-0804-Whitening Cream
Phase No. Trade Name %
C 16 SEPIGEL 305 0.50
D 17 1% CARBOPOL940 20.00
E 18 FRAGRANCE 0.12
F 19 NA-HYALUNOLATE (1%) 2.00
G
20 D.I-WATER 18.00
21 GERMALL 115 0.30
22 ARBUTIN 2.00
H 23 SUNSIL-Tin UVAB 3.00
NaturalWhite TiO2
10% 10%
Instant Whitening Effect & Texture Control
Even skin tone
Provide good coverage of skin
imperfections, e.g., pores and
uneven skin tone, while retaining a
natural skin appearance
Natural way to milky, translucent
skin…Can be an opacifying agent to
provide a white appearance to the
emulsion
NaturalWhite does not suffer
from unacceptable skin
whitening.
Marketing claims of NaturalWhite
Bead in Skin Care
Too much whitening
Too harsh
TiO2 settles down(i.e TiO2 is
very difficult to disperse so
often cause separation of
formula)
TiO2 as an instant
whitening agent in skin care
Page 19
Grade Descriptions Avg. Particle size(㎛)
Oil Absorption(cc/g)
SUNSIL 20 Porous Silica 2 0.9~1.3
SUNSIL 130L Porous Silica 7 0.6~0.9
SUNSIL 130 Porous Silica 7 0.9~1.3
SUNSIL 130H Porous Silica 7 1.3~1.7
SUNSIL 130SH Porous Silica 7 2.1~2.6
SUNSIL 130XH Porous Silica 7 2.6~3.0
SUNSIL 150H Porous Silica 13 1.4~2.1
Silica Beads
Silica Bead
Grade Descriptions size(㎛) (cc/g)
SUNSIL 130NP Non Porous Silica 7 0.3~0.6
STANDARD SPECIFIC SURFACE AREA SILICA(300m2/g)
Non Porous SILICA
Grade Descriptions size(㎛) (cc/g)
SUNSIL HI120H Porous Silica 10~14 1.1 ~ 1.5
HIGH SPECIFIC SURFACE AREA SILICA(700~900m2/g)
NEW
SUNJIN’s silica beads do not
have crushed fragments or
oversized agglomerates
because SUNJIN completes
325 mesh screening
during the manufacturing
process.
vs
SUNJIN
COMPETITOR’SChemical Name :Silicon Dioxide
INCI Name:Silica
CAS No. :7631-86-9
Custom Tariff No. :2811.22-9090
Broken Silica pieces
SUNSIL 130 approved by
ECOCERT, Natural Origin
Silica Bead
Marketing claims of
silica beads:
– Natural Finish
– Matting
– Less Oily
– Not Greasy
– Powdery
– Non-Transfer
– Extra Wear
– Smooth
– Full Extension Curving for
Mascara
Page 20
Silica Beads for Skin Care
Phase No. Trade Name %
A
1 DI-Water 53.25
2 1,3-B.G. 6.00
3 MP 0.10
4 ALLANTOIN 0.10
5 TEA 0.30
6 ARLATONE 2121 0.50
B
7 RHEODOL MS 165 0.90
8 RHEODOL TW S120 0.30
9 LANETTE O 0.50
10 EMERSOL 132 1.00
11 TSF 405 6.00
12 TEGOSOFT DEC 2.00
13 PP 0.10
C 14 CARBOPOL 940 (1%) 15.00
D 15 Sepigel 305 0.30
E
16 ARBUTIN 0.50
17 D.I.WATER 10.00
18 GERMALL 115 0.15
F 19 Sodium Hyaluronate (1%) 1.00
G 20 SUNSIL-130 2.00
Guideline Formula: SJF-0805-Sebum Control Essence
…especially developed for men whose T-zone is shine-proven…Anti-shine facial cleanser, used daily to dissolve excess sebum and leave skin perfectly purified
…hydrate and regulate excess sebum(copper zinc)
…Instant, directly targeted ultra-smoothing: when
applied, the eye contour is immediately and visibly smoothed…A relaxing effect: day after day, fine lines are reduced, signs of fatigue are visibly smoothed out and eyes recover their sparkles
…Fight the first signs of aging in just 5 days.
…this daily moisturizing lotion visibly reduces fine lines while improving skin texture and tone. …Exclusive formula visibly corrects the first signs of aging
Eye Care 5um Silica 2.86%
Anti Wrinkle Lotion 15um Silica 2.88%
Anti-Shine Moisturizer 8um Silica 3.58%
Silica Bead
PMMA Bead Urethane Bead
Nylon Bead
Polymers, not natural
Mineral, Natural Origin
Vs.
PE, PTFE…
Natural Micro Bead
Silica Bead
Page 21
Silica Beads with Surface Treatment
Micro Bead
Grade Descriptions size(㎛) (cc/g)
SUNSIL 130L-SC Hydrophobic Silica 6~9 0.6~0.9
SUNSIL 130SC Hydrophobic Silica 6~9 0.9~1.3
SUNSIL 130H-SC Hydrophobic Silica 6~9 1.1~1.7
SUNSIL 150H-SC Hydrophobic Silica 10~15 1.2~2.0
Methicone Coated SILICA BEADS
Grade Descriptions size(㎛) (cc/g)
SUNSIL 130L-AS Hydrophobic Silica 6~9 0.6~0.9
SUNSIL 130AS Hydrophobic Silica 6~9 0.9~1.3
SUNSIL 130H-AS Hydrophobic Silica 6~9 1.1~1.7
SUNSIL 150H-AS Hydrophobic Silica 10~15 1.2~2.0
Alkyl Silane Coated SILICA BEADS
Better Skin adhesion
Long lasting
Better Skin spread & Tactile
properties
Ease of press, reduce breakage by
drop
enhances flow characteristics and
stability in the vehicle
More compatiable with oily media or
oily binder
Hydrophobic coating improves
“CREAM TO POWDER”
Oil-based so they look creamy and greasy in the pan but actually go on matte and powdery
To reduce other gellyfing agents and waxes that could have a negative impact on the texture. Super High oil absorption silica can help to reduce “sweating “ & “cracking” in poured products and sticks
“LIP STICK”The absorption properties can also reduce the “sweating “ and “cracking” in poured products and sticks, so to avoid undesired halos on the surface
“COMPACT POWDER”Silica can Modulate pay-off in compact powdersLow oil absorption silica, not absorbing binder too much so used in loose and pressed powders
“LOOSE POWDER”Long lasting matte finish in loose powder
“MASCARA”Full extension curving, lengthening and thickening
Very price affordable, only
a few $ more expensive
than the untreated silica
beads
Page 22
Wet coating vs. dry coating
Micro Bead
Making silica bead and doing surface treatment in situ
SILICA MAKER
Making silica bead
SURFACE TREATMENT COMPANY
CUSTOMERS
Wet Coating
Doing surface treatment separately
Coating material< 2.5%
Coating material > 5%
Dry Coating
Surface treatedSilica bead
Silica bead
Surface treatedSilica bead
Wet Coating is Technically Superior, Cheaper price, Faster delivery”
CUSTOMERS
As silica is very porous, it absorbs quite a lot of coating material during dry coating process. Thus, the dry coated silica has much higher content of coating material as compared to silica bead via wet coating process
Wet coating process is technically superior to dry coating process in terms of uniformity of coating(i.e. better surface treatment, stronger hydrophobicity.
SUNJIN has been doing 1step wet coating since its first production of surface treated silica beads
SUNJIN
Dry coating process typically involves two different entities, i.e. a silica bead maker and a surface treatment provider
1 STEP
1st STEP 2ndSTEP
Page 23
Superior soft focus agent compared to silicone elastomer bead due to a
higher refractive index (Urethane 1.52 vs. Silicone 1.41) enables
urethane bead become much more efficient soft focusing agent in
cosmetic media
Urethane Bead
Grade Descriptions Avg. Particle size(㎛)
Hardness
SUNPU-170 Urethane bead 14~20 soft
Chemical Name : Hexamethylene Diisocyanate/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer & Silica
Urethane bead can be said 100(=250/2.4) times softer than PMMA bead, 40(=98/2.4) times softer than nylon bead
deformedunforced
10% deformation
K value
PU 170
Nylon
PMMA
Silica
2.4
98
250
3350
One particle of each powder type was exposed to compression. Pressure necessary for 10% deformation of the particle was measured.(Measuring Tool: Shimadzu Micro Compression Testing Machine MCTM-500)
K value
K = (3/21/2)(F)(S-3/2)(R-1/2)S: Sample displacementR: Sample radius
K value measures the polymer's elasticity and indicates the force required for specific levels of displacement (10%, 20% deformation). Therefore, the higher the K value the polymer has,the harder it is.
C 8 Sepigel305 Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7 0.9
D 9 Tocopheryl Acetate Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2
E 10 PU-170 HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer /Silica 20
Guideline Formula: SJF-0811-Anti Wrinkle Cream
References
Anti-Age Retexturing Night Cream, 8um Urethane Bead 4%
Correcting serum for Lines/Wrinkles/Age Spot, 15um Urethane Bead 20%
…Instantly see up to a 29% reduction in fine, dry lines. Skin is luminous.
…Deep lines look lifted away MONTH 1: 50% reduction in the look of deep lines and wrinkles.
An intensive action cream, developed to meet the special needs of the skin at night, The density, elasticityand firmness of your skin are preserved…Fine lines are smoothed out
= 3.96% of PMMA-P + 3.96% Sodium Hyaluronate(0.5%)
Porous PMMA
Silica is inorganic so has metal ions inside
Porous PMMA has no metals or ions inside
Thus porous PMMA is much better carrier for actives or fragrances which are
susceptible for the degradation catalyzed by metallic ions
Moreover porous PMMA is naturally hydrophobic inside but porous silica is
hydrophilic inside so porous PMMA has more affinity for hydrophobic actives
Why Porous PMMA is better than Porous Silica as an active carrier?
Page 31
Very dispersible porous PMMA
1. Urethane Bead A No Good2. Urethane Bead B No Good3. COCO 130 Good4. Nylon 12 Powder No Good4. SUSNIL 130NP O.K.5. SUNPU170 No Good6. SUNPMMA-S No Good7. SUNPMMA-PH Good8. PE Bead No Good9. SUNSIL 130H No Good10. SUNPMMA-P Good11. SUNSIL 130 No Good
1 2 3 4
1 2 3 4
4 5 6 7
4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11
8 9 10 11
Powder 10%, EtOH 10%, Water 10%3 Month Later, upside down test
Tested materials: 12 Micro Beads
Test Condition
Test Results
Porous PMMA Beads have shown excellent
re-dispersibility
Good for Liquid TonerGood for Sprayable formula
Porous PMMA
Page 32
GEM STONE
DIAMOND POWDER
CTFA monograph ID: 7705
CAS no: 7782-40-3
EINECS: 231-953-2
Gem stone
5 ~ 10Silica (SiO2) min. 97%Fe max. 1% Aluminium Oxide (Al2O3) max. 2%Mg max 0.5%
4 ~ 8Silica (SiO2) min. 60%Aluminium Oxide (Al2O3) max. 20%Potassium Oxide (K2O) max. 5%Calcium Oxide (CaO) min. 1%
Tourmaline
Light grey
0.5 ~ 3.5Carbon 97.5% maxAlumina Oxide 1.5% min
DIAMOND-SJ01
Grade Composition Avg. Particle size(㎛)
color
JADE POWDER
CTFA: 12174-03-7
JEWEL POWDER
CTFA: 12174-03-7
Tourmaline
Coral
Amethyst,Jade,Tourmaline
Tourmaline
PEARL
Amethyst
Amber
Coral
Page 33
Pearlescent in Skin Care
Optical Blurring
Radiance CreamIntensive triple action radiance face cream: Moisturized, smooth, luminous skinskin care gets skin glowing, revealing its original radiance, maximize luminosityit activates its microcirculation system.
UV moisturizer…while visibly improving skin’s natural luminosity and reducing the appearance of discoloration, dullness, brown spots and wrinkles
Eye Lifting Serumcontains a concentrated form of an exclusive amino-peptide complex that hydrates to firm and visibly lift skin around the entire eye area.Skin's natural glow will be restored and skin is left feeling velvety smooth. Visibly lifts, smoothes and brightens the entire eye area for firm eyelids, smooth corners and even-tone under eyes.Use alone or create your own regimen with other Regenerist skin care products.
Whitening Gel Essence…make your skin look as if it were lit from within…more even skin, Enriched with right reflectors, this gel essence instantly enhances your complexion with an exceptionally beautiful luminosity.
pearlescent
MARKETING CLAIMS of use of pearlescent in skin care
“your skin glowing and looking natural”
“bright and radiant”
“instantly brightening the skin”
“The pearl tone provides your skin with a luminous quality”
“runway gleam”
“you will look resplendent in 60 seconds”
“tired skin look awake and alive”
“your skin glowing and looking natural”
“bright and radiant”
“instantly brightening the skin”
“The pearl tone provides your skin with a luminous quality”
Minimum degree of protection provided by sunscreens
All products need to comply by 2009, at which point it is expected to be treated as a law.
Products that do not comply with these requirements will not be regarded as ‘Sunscreen
Products’
EU Recommendation of 22 September 2006 on the efficacy of sunscreen products
UVA protection solution from SUNJIN
: Hybrid PMMA Bead
: Zinc Oxide: Zinc Oxide Dispersion
Additional criteria, minimum of 370nm to ensure broad band protection
3. Critical Wavelength
Sun Protection Factor minimum 6.
Only 8 defined SPF values allowed
1. UVB Protection
Level of UVA protection(measured by in vivo or in vitro methods) at least 1/3 of labelled SPF. (UVA label can be used to highlight achievement of protection level)
2. UVA Protection
Growing importance of
UVA Protection
Page 39
BMDBM(=Avobenzone) Overview
The amount of BMDBM decreasesweakening of the UVA protection
(3) Compatibility
(2) Poor Photostablility
Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2.
BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatings
Avobenzone degrades quickly in the sun. Researchers have reported a 36% reduction in UVA absorption by avobenzone after only 15 minutes of exposure. In vitro studies have shown a 50% loss in UVA blockage for different sunscreen formulations, confirming the photodegradation of avobenzone.
max:~350nmג
max:~260nmג
(4) Crystallization
BMDBM is susceptible to crystallization that results in loss of product aesthetics, sun protection, appearance, stability
Dermal response:0 = No evidence of irritation1 = Minimal erythema, 2 = Readily visible erythema, 3 = Erythema and papules4 = Definite edema5 = Erythema, edema, and papules6 = Vesicular eruption7 = strong reaction spreading
“The 500-Da rule for skin penetration are: 1)virtually all common contact allergens are under 500-Da, larger molecules are not known as contact sensitizers…they can not penetrate and thus cannot act as allergens in man”
• Nano technology is applied to SUNSIL Tin40 but the size of SUNSIL Tin40 is micron-sized and visible enough to be seen under normal optical microscope
• ECOCERT accepted that there is no nano particles less than 100nm at SUNSIL Tin40 so approved SUNSIL Tin40 as “mineral and natural origin”
NEW
Page 48
Natural UV Filter
Tin TiO2 Tin TiO2
24hrs later
As the surface of Tin40 is silica, Tin40 exhibits the excellent dispersion properties of silica in both oil and water media.
Cosmetic formulation process
becomes much easier and
formulation stability is more
reliable compared to the use of
common nano-sized TiO2.
Very Transparent, Good Feel
Advantage 3: Feel and Spread
Advantage 4: Good Dispersibility
Advantage 5: synergistic SPF Boost
4.20.8
5.2
5.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
NAS 3%
Tin40 4%
0.85.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
Tin40 4%
8.5
15.0
TiO2 3%
SPF boost = 5.7
4.20.85.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
25.0
30.0
NAS 3%
Tin40 4%
SPF
8.5
TiO23%
24.9
SPF boost= 11.4
SPF boost = 0.2
O.K. SPF boostBetween Tin40 and TiO2
Good SPF synergy
Tin40 is low SPF by itself But
when used together with TiO2
& ZnO has great synergistic
SPF boost
Tin40 4%
NAS 3% + Tin40
4%TiO2 3% +
Tin40 4%
TiO27% +
NAS 3% +
Almost no SPF boostBetween Tin40 and ZnO
5um Silica BeadWith 12nm TiO2 • 32% of TiO2 is encapsulated in 5um silica bead
• The crystal size of TiO2 is on average 12nm and is perfectly encapsulated within the silica bead
• Due to encapsulation, surface characteristics, e.g. rough touch & feel, of TiO2
are not present.
Synergistic SPF study of UV filters
1. Parsol MCX: OMC from DSM2. Parsol EHS: Octyl Salicylate from DSM3. SUNCLEAR-Z50AQX: 50% ZnO dispersion in water, SUNJIN4. SUNSIL Tin40: 5um Silica Bead With 12nm TiO2 inside by 35%, SUNJIN5. Hybrid ABOMC: PMMA Bead with 30% AB and 7% OMC, SUNJIN
Tested materials: 4 major UV Filters tested
Tested formula: O/W
UV Synergy
Page 49
---9SUNPMMA-S
505-SUNSIL Tin 40
0.1
7
-
9
0.1
1
25
25
6
0.1
1
5
6.5
1
1.7
2
2
1
5
1.5
Formula-3
0.10.10.1perfumeD
777Sunclear Z50AQX
--5SUNSIL-130L
90-Hybrid ABOMC
C
0.10.10.1Phenoxy Ethanol
111DC2501 WAX
252920Water
2525255% Veegum
6661,3-BG
B
0.10.10.1PP
111Vegewax 70
555Parsol EHS
6.56.56.5Parsol MCX
111Emersol 7036NF
1.71.71.7Tween 60
222Aracel 165
222KALCOHL 6870
111Salacos 99
555TSF 405
1.51.51.5Cetiol LC
A
Formula-4
Formula-2
Formula-1IngredientsN
o
6.5
5.0
7.0
MCX
EHS
AQX
Tin40
ABOMC
5.0
9.0
5.0
9.0
#1 #2 #3 #4
How would be SPF & PA?
29.0931.8520.1710.89Avg. UVA
4422Boots Star Rating
381381.9362.2368.8Critical Wavelength
0.819=1:1.22
0.88=1:1.13
0.458=1:2.18
0.588=1:1.70
UVA/UVB Ratio
42.5239.8933.2918.83SPF
Formula-4Formula-3Formula-2Formula-1
Test Results(in vitro)
0
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
18.8
33.3
14.5
OMC 6.5%OS 5%ZnO 3,5%
Unit SPF/% of combination=18.8/(6.5+5+3.5)= 1.25
OMC 6.5%OS 5%ZnO 3,5%+Tin40 5%
Unit SPF/% of combination= 33.3/(6.5+5+3.5+5)= 2.22
Good synergistic SPF boost
Improved SPF boost efficiency
39.9
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
18.8
21.1
OMC 6.5%OS 5%ZnO 3,5%+ABOMC 9%
Unit SPF/% of combination= 39.9/(6.5+5+3.5+9)= 1.66
OMC 6.5%OS 5%ZnO 3,5%
Good synergistic SPF boostFormula-1
Formula-2
Formula-1
Formula-3
Less than (UVA:UVB = 1:3) ratio, Balanced UV protection
Critical wavelength > 370nmBroad UV protection
UV Synergy
Page 50
Page 51
Zinc Oxide Overview
Nano UV Filter
Korean Patent registeredNo. 10-0740275-0000
Zinc oxide is the closest thing to a total "broad-spectrum" sunblock on the market today. It uniformly
covers from 290 to 380 nm, thus protecting against UVB and most of the UVA spectrum. No other sunscreen ingredient provides broader protection.
And unlike many chemical sunscreen agents, zinc
oxide is never irritating. In fact, it is recognized
by the Food and Drug Administration as a
Category I skin protectant, meaning that it is
safe for compromised or environmentally
challenged skin. Zinc oxide has over a 300-year
history of safety, with no known adverse
reactions (which is why it is often used to treat babies). Now, in its micro-fine form, it is ideal
for use in sunscreens and daily moisturizers.
Advantage 1: Broad Spectrum Sun Block
Advantage 2: Never Irritating
Advantage 3: True Transparency
ZnO used
TiO2 used
ZnO used
TiO2 used
ZnO TiO2
Page 52
The most common complains about Zinc Oxide…
But Really?
Nano UV Filter
Recently some zinc oxide suppliers significantly improved SPF of nano zinc oxide. SUNZNO-NAS generally has unit SPF efficiency of 1.4 SPF unit/% in W/O formulation.
Moreover, ZnO has great synergy with OMC. Thus the SPF of 3% ZnO and 5% OMC would be comparable to the SPF of 3% TiO2 and 5% OMC. Although ZnO would have lower SPF than TiO2 by themselves, ZnO shows greater SPF boost when used together with OMC compared to TiO2 with OMC.
SPF
4.2
6.5
24.3
5.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
25.0
30.0
SUNZNO-NAS3%
OMC 5%
ZnO with OMC
6.5
4.2
13.6
SPF
6.5
22.5
5.0
10.0
15.0
20.0
25.0
30.0
OMC 5%
TiO2 with OMC
6.5
7.5SPF Boost 8.5
TiO2 3%
8.5
6.5
NAS3%
OMC 5% +
OMC 5%
TiO2 3%+
Zinc Oxide has higher SPF boost when used together with OMC as compared to TiO2
A common caution in formulating a ZnO-containing product is to avoid or to minimize the use of anionic emulsifier or thickener such as carbomersAt pH values < 6, the solubility of zinc oxide increase and migration from the oil phase to water phase observed
For this reason, ZnO is usually incorporated into the oil phase of the formulation. Moreover these problems can be minimized or eliminated by various means. Use of an optimized predispersion maintains the ZnO in a finely dispersed form in the oil phase. In W/O emulsions, such dispersion techniques are sufficient to eliminate migration and efficacy of ZnO. ZnO can also be coated with hydrophobic materials in order to reduce migration
As SUNJIN chemical applies 1 step coating process for surface treated Zinc Oxide, zinc oxides from SUNJIN are very price competitive. SUNJIN tries to match the price level of Zinc Oxide comparable to the price of micro-fine TiO2
Generally ZnO is considered not stable in O/W formulation. However, if zinc oxide is well surface treated, almost there is no problem.
1. SPF is the half of TiO2
2. Not stable in O/W formula
3. Price twice expensive than TiO2
Page 53
Nano Zinc Oxide
150
150
80
40
40
Crystal size(nm)
Natural UV FilterStearic AcidSUNZNO-SA
Natural UV FilternoneSUNZNO
Grade Surface treatment Remarks
SUNZNO-NAS Alkyl Silane Good Transparency
SUNZNO-NCO
Dimethicone/Methicone Copolymer
Excellent Silicone Oil compatibility
SUNZNO-AS Alkyl Silane
Nano UV Filter
Korean Patent registeredNo. 10-0740275-0000
Reference Formula: W/Si cream type
0.836= 1 : 1.19
0.71= 1 : 1.41
0.684= 1 : 1.46
UVA/UVB ratio
15.22
15.22 / 11.6% = 1.31
17.14
17.14 / 11.6% = 1.48
SUNZNO-NAS (11.6%)
6.13
6.13 / 5% = 1.23
8.37
8.37 / 5% = 1.67
SUNZNO-NAS (5%)
3.19
3.19 / 3%= 1.06
4.39
4.39 / 3%= 1.46
SUNZNO-NAS (3%)
PA measurement
Unit PA/%
SPF measurement
Unit SPF/%
3%
5%
11.6%
SPF 1.4 per 1% of
Zinc Oxide,
High SPF efficiency
PA 1.2 per 1% of
Zinc Oxide,
High PA efficiency
NEW
NEW
Page 54
Benchmarking test
Nano UV Filter
# of SPF measurement
#1
#2
#3
#4 … #
8 Avg. SPF/%
Size(nm)
1 SUNZNO-AS 10 8 7 8 … 11 8.9 0.8 150
2 SUNZ NO-NAS 17 15 14 11 … 16 16.0 1.4 40
3 Product ”M” 10 11 13 14 … 13 12.9 1.1 40
4 Product “Z” 7 7 8 10 … 11 10.0 0.9 60
5 Product “Z” 5 5 6 6 5.6 0.5 10
6 Product “F” 17 15 15 18 16.2 1.4 40
7 Product “F” 17 17 15 17 16.4 1.4 20
1
(2) UVA Protection
(1) UVB Protection: SPF
2 3 4
5 6 7
55% Higher SPF(=1.4/0.9)
SunZnO-AS SunZnO-NAS
3 4
W=23.5 W=15.5 W=20.5
Whiteness Index
W=23.5
5 6 7
W=16.5 W=16.8 W=14.8
(3) Transparency NIPPON DENSHOKUCOLOR METER ZE 2000
Test ResultTest Result
Good UVA protection
Good Transparency
– 7 different commercially available zinc oxide tested
– Zinc oxide 11.6% used only(no other UV filter used)
Q. Your competitions’ water dispersions seem to be more transparent. Can you improve your transparency?
A. Competitive water dispersions usually have glycerin or ethylene glycol or butylene glycol or some kinds of poly alcohols inside. These ingredients partially act as preservatives. However, T40AQX does not have poly alcohols inside so it is more matte texture and dries up very quickly. Thus as competitive products does not dry quickly, TiO2 particles stay wet with poly alcohols so they look more transparent. However once they dry completely, they look more whiter than T40AQX
Q. What preservative do you use for your water dispersion? Have you done Challenge Test?
A. We use Optiphen which is composed of Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol. Yes we have challenge test result of T40AQX.
SUNCLEAR T40AQX is compatible with Veegum
But SUNCLEAR T40AQ is much more compatible with various thickeners
UV attenuation with TiO2 is primarily related to particle size.
T40C and T40J’s dispersing process yield to a tightly controlled particle size distribution, leading the dispersion to remain much less visible to the eye when applied to the skin.
Test condition: TiO2 mixed with Vaseline, after 3 days indoors
UV capsule 60
Broad UVA & UVB protection
UV capsule 60 shows much better photo-stability compared to other
nano size TiO2
Aluminum oxide is one of the most common coating material for TiO2. BMDBM forms a complex with Al3+ salts from TiO2 coatingsThese have common surface treatment, i.e., either silica or alkyl silane, which are known as the best coating agentsUV capsule 60 is coated with both silica and alkyl silane up to 40% to guarantee perfect compatibility and photo-stability
Trend Overview• Makeup claiming varying SPF levels is sold all over the world
• It has long been desirable however, particularly in Asia, to have foundation
with a high SPF desirable
• However, typically foundations come in the form of Pressed powders, which are difficult make cosmetically acceptable with a high SPF
• The levels of ultrafine titanium dioxide required for high SPF values result in a product that is, among others, too dry
• Adding organic sunscreen agents to pressed powder compositions creates a product exhibiting a cosmetically undesirable glaze
• Moreover it’s much more difficult to make a high UVA protection makeupthan a high SPF because of limited availability of organic UV filters to make a high PA, because inorganic UV filters such as TiO2 or Zinc Oxide are required to use, which greatly enhances chalkiness, grittiness of the makeup
TiO2
Spherical UV Filter
Consumer needsHow to achieve make up with High SPF & High PA while not hurting sensory feeling?
A Korean pressed powder With SPF 32 & PA++
ActivesTiO2ZnOOMCBEMT
Page 62
Formula for High SPF Make-up
Guideline Formula: SJF-0814-Transparent Powdery Sun Block
The information given in this publication is based on our current knowledge and experience, and may be used at your discretion and risk. We do not assume any liability in connection with your product or its use
ASIACHINATianjin Xianguang Chemical Address : Jinyu Road, Xiditou Beichen District, Tianjin Tel : +86-22-8684-5637E-mail : [email protected] : Mr. Piao (Mobile: +86-1370-213-6240)
IndiaTradax WorldwideAddress : 103/117(W),Silver Oaks,DLF Qutab Enclave,Phase-I,Gurgaon,Haryana-122 002 Tel : +91-12-4505 1569 [email protected] : Mr. A C Bansal
KK India Petroleum Specialties Address : A/112-118,Synthfine Estate,Off Aarey Road, Goregaon(East),Mumbai-400 063 Tel : +91-22-2876 4569 E-mail : [email protected] : Mr. Kalpesh Modi
IndonesiaPT. Megasetia Agung KimiaAddress : Jl. Paradise Timur Raya F21/58, Sunter AgungPodomoro, Jakarta 14350Tel : +62-21-645-1037 [email protected] : Rina Susanti
MalaysiaNiche Chemicals Sdn Bhd Address : No. 38, Jalan SC 5/C, Pusat Perindustrian Sg Chua, 43000 Kajang. Selangor, Malaysia. Tel : +603-8739-9118 Fax : +603-8739-9110E-mail : [email protected] : Esther Fong
Global Distributors’ List
EUROPE France WARWICK ADRISS Address : ZA VERT GALANT 70, Avenue du Chateau, BP10604, Saint Ouen l'Aumone 95004 Cergy-Pontoise Cedex FRANCE Tel : +33-1-30-37-96 51 poste 9651Mob. +33(0)6 80 03 70 07 [email protected] : Dominique Cormary
