Sur La Terre Doha-Issue 16

It is said that imitation is the highest form of flattery.

Well, here at Sur la Terre, we feel pretty flattered by some of our local counterparts. However, ours is not to rest on our laurels and, while our new design has been well received by both our readers and Qatar-based contemporaries alike, this issue sees your favourite luxury lifestyle magazine try on yet another new outfit.

New outfits, be they literal or metaphorical, are a theme that carries on throughout this issue. Our main feature sees our resident style guru, Sophie Jones-Cooper, focus on the top runway models that are turning their hand to design, with an exclusive one-on-one with Erin Wasson, while Kevin Hackett, our favourite motoring correspondent, gets dirty with the new Range Rover Evoque. With an interior conceptualised by Victoria Beckham and a departure for the brand in terms of exterior design, it is a car that looks as comfortable pulling up to the red carpet as it is rolling in the mud. While rolling in the mud at some of Canada’s leading music and cultural festivals for our first Artopia piece in a while, Senior Editor, Steve Paugh, discovers that Montreal is a multi-faceted city with an outfit to suit every occasion, colour and creed. This city, diverse in looks and styles, is investigated further in Horizons, where Steve gets, quite literally, under the skin of the city.

We look at some top talent in the image business in Up Close & Personal, including David Omi, the man that branded the Alexander McQueen label. He explains to Megan Masterson how he went about outfitting the enfant terrible of British Fashion with a corporate identity that is now recognised around the world as a mark of quality in haute couture. Meanwhile, painting over the cracks and putting the best faces forward for the world’s A-list, is Giorgio Armani’s fabulous face man, Cesar Santos.

Outfits, styles and fashions are a cyclical thing and, as this is a lightly fashion-themed edition of SLT, forgive me for returning to my earlier point about imitation; something that plays an important part in an industry on which much of the luxury lifestyle market is based. How often have we seen that once one designer revives the styles from the 1960s and 1970s, everyone jumps on the bandwagon? As each new generation of fashionistas comes of age, they will always find facets of the past to “borrow” for their own “new” looks and designs. Look out for the ‘80s and ‘90s returning to runways near you soon. However, much like the original-era fashions that these pretenders borrow from, as your original lexicon of luxury living, Sur la Terre may oft be imitated, but will never be bettered - no matter what outfit we are wearing.

James McCarthy

Regional Managing editoR

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“NATURE’S FiR ST GREEN iS G OLD, HER H A R DEST HUE TO HOLD.” - Ro b e r t Fr o s t -

thE liStARTS AND CULTURE

WHEN: October 26th and 27thWHERE: Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel, DubaiWHAT: Get those paddles at the ready for Christies’ auction of important works by the masters of modern Middle Eastern art. The Modern and Contemporary Arab, Iranian and Turkish Art sale will be held in Dubai with a pre-sale viewing open to the public from Sunday, October 23rd to Wednesday, October 26th. Led by two masterpieces by the father of Egyptian art, Mahmoud Said (1897–1964), the event promises an impressive line-up of consignments from modern art masters and contemporary works from cutting-edge artists. Said’s Petite fille d’Assiout (below), painted in 1945 and conveying spirit and beauty, shows a defiant young maid servant, and is estimated at $250,000–300,000. His second painting, Hag Ali, painted in 1924, carries the same estimate and features prominently in books and catalogues about the artist’s work. Other artists represented include iranian artists, Farhad Moshiri and Daryoush Gharahzad, Syria’s Fateh Moudarres, Moroccan photographer Lalla Essaydi, Turkey’s Burçak Bingöl and Azade Köker, and Chafic Abboud, the Lebanese artist who was the subject of a recent retrospective at the institut du Monde Arabe in Paris. www.christies.com

26-27oct

Modern Middle Eastern art at Christie’s

WHEN: November 16th – 19thWHERE: UAE Pavilion, Abu DhabiWHAT: With an expected 15,000 visitors and 22 countries represented, this massive show, now in its third year, will bring together modern and contemporary art and design from all corners of the world, aiming to stimulate dialogue between east and west. Formerly known as artparis-AbuDhabi, this year’s show will be held in Saadiyat island’s Cultural District, where the Louvre Abu Dhabi, Zayed National Museum and the Guggenheim Abu Dhabi will open from 2013. Look out for emerging galleries, performance art, outdoor sculptures and site-specific installations, all operating as a boutique-style fair. Entrance is free and the event is open daily from 3pm to 10pm.www.abudhabiartfair.ae

16-19Nov

Abu Dhabi Art Fair

WHEN: November 2011WHERE: Abu Dhabi National Exhibition CentreWHAT: Join top collectors and dealers from around the world to see and purchase some of the most exquisite and rare antiques and fine art pieces. Abu Dhabi’s recently opened exhibition centre is the stage for this dazzling event that will showcase works by the likes of Bruegel and Monet, as well as other masterpieces that reflect 5,000 years of excellence in the art world. Approximately 80 specialist dealers from Europe, the Middle East, Far East, and North and Central America will participate, displaying their treasures of contemporary and traditional art, sculpture and antiques, including European and Asian ceramics, furniture, silver, maps, books and even militaria. Those with a passion for all things collectible can also attend a programme of seminars featuring leading experts and exhibitions, and enjoy a host of related entertainment activities.www.emiratesartandantiquesfairs.com/abu-dhabi/

Nov2011

International Fine Art and Antiques Fair

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thE liStLiFESTyLE

WHEN: October 4th – 8thWHERE: Expo Centre, SharjahWHAT: The Middle East’s premier exhibition showcasing the latest trends and designs in watches, precious stones, gold and diamonds, is the event to head for if you’re looking for ever-more ways to get your bling. As the longest running and most popular show of its kind in the region, it’s no surprise that more than 53,000 international visitors are expected over a mere five-day schedule. Held twice a year, the upcoming 31st edition will occupy an astounding 16,000 square metres of exhibition space, and will host more than 450 master jewellers from around the world. Leading global names in the jewellery business will not only showcase their hot new wares, they will also be presenting a series of customisation offers for clients from the region.www.mideastjewellery.com

sEp oct

WHEN: September and October respectivelyWHERE: London and ParisWHAT: What surprises await fashionistas at this year’s Spring/Summer 2012 fashion weeks? Will the vanguards of British design shock with their non-conformist aesthetic, or will they choose to focus instead on the best of their style heritage? And how will France’s ateliers convince us that there is indeed life after Galliano? Two of the world’s most eminent fashion weeks kick off soon, and will give us an indication of the best looks for the next summery season. London Fashion Week is up first, beginning September 16th, and will showcase favourites such as Julien Macdonald, John Rocha, Vivienne Westwood Red Label, Mulberry, Burberry Prorsum, Paul Smith and Kate Middleton’s favourite label, issa London, right up until the closing show on Wednesday, September 21st. On the other side of the pond, Paris Fashion Week will take centre stage from September 28th until October 5th, and is the place to be for anyone with a lifelong love for the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior.www.londonfashionweek.co.ukwww.parisfashionweek.com

London and Paris Fashion Weeks

Mideast Watch and Jewellery Show

4-8oct

WHEN: July 2011WHERE: Landmark Mall, DohaWHAT: The glam-girl brand made famous by supermodels such as Gisele, Heidi Klum, Adriana Lima and Miranda Kerr, has finally arrived in Doha. The much-anticipated Victoria’s Secret store opened recently in Landmark Mall, offering customers firsthand access to the iconic beauty and branded accessories lines, including fragrances such as the new Victoria’s Secret Bombshell range. Also on the shelves are America’s number one fragrance, Dream Angels, the Secret Garden Collection, VS Makeup and Beauty Rush Lip Gloss. Those in love with the brand’s apparel are also in for a treat, as the store will carry a limited assortment of innerwear, sleepwear and loungewear. Why not pop by for a visit and unleash your inner femme fatale?www.victoriassecret.com

Victoria’s Secret in Qatar

Nov2011


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thE liStENTERTAiNMENT

WHEN: October 25th – 29thWHERE: Katara Cultural Village, DohaWHAT: The Doha Film institute’s Doha Tribeca Film Festival has become a must-attend on the regional cultural circuit. Now in its third year, the event will showcase a diverse selection of movies from around the world, across themed segments including world panorama and Arab showcase. Fittingly, this year, the Arabian epic, Black Gold, will make its world premiere. Co-produced with Quinta Communications and directed by Jean-Jacques Annaud, Black Gold is the first major co-production for DFi and Qatar. An epic adventure based on the classic novel, The Great Thirst, by Hans Reusch, the film stars Antonio Banderas, Freida Pinto and Tahar Rahim, and the prominent battle scenes were shot in the desert dunes of Mesaieed and Shamal in Qatar. The festival will showcase a programme of approximately 40 films, an array of large community events, including the hugely popular family day, as well as panels and filmmaking programmes. Last year’s event featured 51 films from 35 countries and drew almost 50,000 movie-lovers. The 2011 edition is expected to be even bigger and better.www.dohafilminstitute.com

Doha Tribeca Film Festival

25-29oct

WHEN: November 11th – 13thWHERE: yas Marina Circuit, Abu DhabiWHAT: Gentlemen, start your engines. Formula One – it’s one of the most glamorous sports on Earth, with multimillion-dollar- cars racing each other around gravity-defying hairpin bends at speeds of up to 320km/hour, and teams followed across the globe by a band of faithful rich and famous jetsetters. The final race of the season gathers all the drama and excitement at the yas Marina Circuit in Abu Dhabi. Rising out of the desert, this circuit, built for a pricetag of over $1 billion, will set the stage for a fascinating duel between big budget cars and the most skilful drivers in the world. The Abu Dhabi Grand Prix, be there.www.formula1.com

Abu Dhabi Grand Prix

11-13Nov

WHEN: December 8th – 11thWHERE: Jumeirah Golf Estates, DubaiWHAT: Billed as the world’s richest golf tournament, the Dubai World Championship is a fitting end to the professional golf season. The season’s top 60 players meet in the out-of-this-world city, on an acclaimed, sculptured course, to compete for a cool grand prize of $7.5 million. For spectators, that’s four days of savouring a menu packed with world-class food and entertainment, and watching top-notch golfers go at it head-to-head. At the time of going to press, the Top 60 included the likes of England’s Luke Donald, South Africa’s Charl Schwartzel, Northern ireland’s Rory Mcilroy, Denmark’s Thomas Bjorn and Germany’s Martin Kaymer. Spectators can be inspired from Day One, as players tee off on the spectacular Greg Norman-designed Earth course, then put their own golfing skills to the test with the Full Swing simulator, or garner some tips on their swing in a free ten-minute lesson from professional Emirates Golf Foundation coaches.www.dubaiworldchampionship.com

The Dubai World Championship

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thE liStGLOBAL GATHERiNGS

WHEN: October 1st – 3rdWHERE: Longchamps, ParisWHAT: it’s Europe’s richest turf race and certainly one of its most celebrated race meetings. The Qatar Prix de L’Arc de Triomphe, or the “Arc” as it’s more popularly known, is the most prestigious horse race in Europe, with a roll of honour featuring such acclaimed horses as Sea Bird, Dancing Brave and Sea The Stars. One spectacular weekend sees the finest turf racing with 11 Group races over two days at Longchamps. The Group 1 flat horse race, which is open to thoroughbreds aged three years or older, is run over a distance of 2,400 metres. Now under the sponsorship of the Qatar Racing and Equestrian Club, the prize money has doubled from $2.8 million to $5.7 million, making it possibly the world’s richest race. yet, winnings aside, it is a 2003 promotional poster that best describes this renowned event: “Ce n’est pas une course, c’est une monument” (“Not so much a race as a monument”).www.prixarcdetriomphe.com

WHEN: November 1stWHERE: Flemington, MelbourneWHAT: They call it “the race that stops a nation” in Australia, and this year, the Emirates Melbourne Cup is likely to be no different. That’s perhaps because the Cup is more than just a race, it’s a 151-year-old social and cultural tradition. A truly international event, competitors are from all corners of the globe, and the race itself is beamed to a television audience of approximately 700 million people in 120 countries. Four race days captivate the imagination, with stars of the turf competing for a share of the AUS$6.175 million prize money. Meanwhile, off the track, locals and visitors relish the fashion displays that are inevitably part of the Carnival (previous glamorous attendees at Flemington include Princess Diana, Eva Longoria and Priscilla Presley), but perhaps the greatest fashion stir was caused by British model, Jean Shrimpton, in 1965, when she attended the Derby wearing a scandalous minidress without the requisite hat, gloves or stockings. indeed, this is a party atmosphere to rival that of Rio’s famous carnival, and the celebration kicks off October 29th to November 5th. Visit the website to book your corporate hospitality package and revel in an Aussie good time.www.melbournecup.com

1-3oct

1Nov

WHEN: November 20th – 27thWHERE: The O2, LondonWHAT: Tennis fanatics will be swarming London to watch defending champion and world number three, Roger Federer, confront all comers at the world’s largest indoor tennis event. Be part of the spectacle that will see the top eight singles players and top eight doubles teams in a series of round-robin matches, followed by the always-tense knockout semi-finals. Federer joins Novak Djokovic, Rafael Nadal and Andy Murray, and has a phenomenal record of 10 consecutive appearances and five titles. Hospitality packages at the O2 arena include the ViP Suite Package, complete with four-course gourmet buffet, a dedicated suite steward and suite seats, ideal for 15, 18 or 30 guests, and the Advantage Package, which grants early ViP access, category 1 arena seats and a two-course gourmet meal at exclusive tables of eight or ten, complete with a dedicated hostess. Best book soon to be part of the tennis event of the year.www.barclaysatpworldtourinals.com

20-27Nov

ATP World Tour Finals Emirates Melbourne Cup

Prix de L’Arc de Triomphe


t H e s c e n e

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THE GLOBAL PARTY

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— THE PEA R L & THE WOR LD —

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1. Raymond Babou, Anealla Safdar, and Sally Soheili

2. Clarita de Quiroz and Simonne Cooper3. Jenny and Kate

4. Anton and Nicola5. Nina and Michael

6. Global Party-goers enjoying the night 7. Revellers danced the night away 8. Macy Gray belted out her hits

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t H e s c e n e

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— W DOH A HOTEL & R ESiDENCES —

. sur la terre . the scene .30

1. Guia Katrina Colpas and Michelle Joyce Pena 2. Sam, Saad, Bassam, and Dina3. Nidal and Maya Gherziddine4. Janice, Salma, Laurel, and Sonia5. Omar, Rima, TZ, and Nicholas6. Dr. Soja Luz, Chrispijn, and Dr. Christiana7. Archana and Avinash8. Antoine Pravin, Clara de Lama, Prakash Seetul, Despina Gezerli, and younesse Bououzrou9. Guests enjoyed the Ramadan ambience at the W Ballroom

t H e s c e n e

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Souhour

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— THE R iT Z - C A R LTON, DOH A —

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1. Trish Slade and Kartrin2. Susan and Krista3. Joe Diotte and Jorge Gramlic4. Dave Wilson and Craig5. Eugene, Natasha and Mark Sereda6. Guemther and Jana7. Monica, Manuela, Maurieco and Federico Fernandez8. Torsten and Bjom Maysenholder9. The Ritz-Carlton catering team

WElCoMEto a World WhErE MoNEy iS No objECt aNd Cool CoMES at a priCE. a MillioNairE’S ShoppiNg liSt, FyEo givES you aN iNSidE traCk to thE thiNgS you NEEd to oWN.

34 . sur la terre . for your eyes only .

Denmark is about to cause a stir in the international hypercar market, through a boutique automotive brand called Zenvo. The company has unveiled the ST1 50S, a special edition hypercar created especially for the US market and set to make the Bugatti Veyron seem positively ubiquitous. With production limited to just three vehicles: one red, one white and one blue, the ST1 50S offers a staggering 1,250 horsepower from its ferocious in-house designed and built V8, which is attached to a

grEat daNE >>>Formula One–style, 7-speed paddle-shift gearbox, can hit 60 mph from a standing start in less than three seconds and achieve a face-melting top speed of 233mph. For just $1.8 million you can truly be the envy of your petrol-headed compatriots, get a properly exclusive set of wheels and have a “free” Swiss-made Aspen wristwatch, valued at $49,000, thrown in as well. www.zenvoautomotive.comwww.porsche-design.com

FO

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in the midst of the “Arab Spring”, nothing says revolution chic better than a diamond encrusted belt buckle made from the shell casings of AK-47 bullets. That is just what luxury jewellery designer Caroline Gaspard of

Akillis has created. This wonderful piece of “ridiculux” boasts an alligator leather belt strap and no less than seven gemstone-studded Kalashnikov shells.

Liberating your wallet of just under US$57,000, this also has to be one of the most expensive belts in the world. Gaspard claims her inspirations for the piece

were heroic epics, spy and gangster movies, and that it is “a bold, yet elegant, display of beauty... that has a lightness and comfort, only equalled by its majesty.”

www.akillis.fr

Fancy a quick Shisha? you will when you see this racy Narguile from Porsche Design. As part of the company’s World Collection, the extraordinary Porsche Design Shisha combines high-quality materials such as aluminium, stainless steel and glass with the timeless and unique design approach of the luxury brand. Made in Germany, the pipe stands at a height of 55 centimetres and only shows a discreet branding on the aluminium top, while the long flexible tube is crafted from the company’s patented TecFlex material. Porsche Design is a luxury brand with a particular focus on technically inspired products and was established in 1972 by Professor Ferdinand Alexander Porsche, himself. The brand has grown considerably since then and recently showed its heavyweight calibre when it opened its concession at the world’s most famous corner shop, Harrods, where you can pick up one of these posh pipes for around $3,250. www.porsche-design.com

This is probably the ultimate sci-fi fanboy toy: a road-legal motorbike painstakingly engineered to replicate the computer-generated Lightbike in the Tron: Legacy movie. Created by Parker Brothers Choppers in the US, the Lightbike is just under two-and-a-half metres long, 23 inches wide and weighs 215kg. it can also reach a cool 120mph. With wheels made from former truck tyres that have been

custom-shaped to fit and then decorated with electroluminescent strips, the bike has a fibreglass body built over a steel frame and a fuel-

injected Suzuki 996cc, four-stroke engine. Every bike is custom-built and they are available to buy online from Hammacher Schlemmer. The

$55,000 bike also has a built in port for an iPad that, when connected, will download ride stats from the on-board computer.

www.hammacher.com

bElt up >>>

light FaN-taStiC >>>

SMokE oN thE WatEr >>>FO

r yO u r eyes Only

Sir Winston Churchill is possibly one of the world’s most famous historical figures. A world leader in every sense of the word. However, while he successfully captained the good ship Britannia through the stormy waters of War on more than one occasion, few will know that he was also a passionate artist. One of Churchill’s most notable works, a landscape painting called the Tower of Katoubia Mosque is now for sale and is a priceless addition to any collector’s wall. The 18 x 24-inch oil painting, which depicts the tower of Koutoubia Mosque at sunset with the snowcapped Atlas Mountains in the distance, was originally a gift for President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Churchill painted it in 1943 after the pair travelled to view the sunset from the top of the Berber tower following a WWii Allied conference in Casablanca. From FDR’s home, where it hung until his death, it has passed through the collections of a lucky few before being acquired by New Orleans antiques heavyweight, Bill Rau, president of Rau Antiques where it is now on sale for a mere $3 million. As Sir Winston himself might say, “Never was so much (history) available on sale for so few (dollars)!”www.rauantiques.com


Flying First Class is so last season, especially now that you can enjoy the solitude of the VViP Cabin of a fully equipped A320. The new Comlux A320 Prestige has joined the Fly Comlux fleet to start ViP charter operations from the company’s new operation in Bahrain: Comlux Middle East. The aircraft’s interior offers the finest and most exclusive materials inside its ViP lounge, with an L-shaped divan, two club seats, a large dining table for up to six guests and a fully private compartment offering a cozy lounge for the day or a large double bed

for night flights and a dedicated bathroom with shower. Suitable for up to 19 passengers, the cabin has been intentionally designed for the Middle East charter market, with designated business and economy class seats that allow you to roll with your full entourage. The cabin is also equipped with the latest technologies such as GSM, touch screens, mood-lighting, wifi internet access and iPod/iPhone stands for a truly state-of-the-art journey.www.comluxaviation.com

thE art oF War >>>

CoME Fly With (CoMlux) ME >>>

FO

r yO u r eyes Only

. sur la terre . globe trotter .40

Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth

The Fat Duck

Where: MontReal, Canada

GPS: 45 ˚ 30’ 01.91” n, 73 ˚ 34’ 06.52” W

Where: BRay, UK

GPS: 51 ˚ 30’ 28.60” n, 0 ˚ 42’ 06.35” W

it is rare indeed for a hotel to be celebrated internationally, but even rarer for it to attain a world-class reputation right from the beginning. From the moment this luxury hotel in Montreal opened its doors in 1958, Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth has welcomed queens, princes and princesses, heads of state and international business leaders. its guestbook is filled with historical names from British Royalty, to the likes of political heavyweights Nelson Mandela and Mikhail Gorbachev. Perhaps most famous of all the hotel’s guests, though, is John Lennon. in 1969 he locked himself in to suite 1742 for his famous “bed-in” with yoko Ono, immortalised in the Beatles’ song The Ballad of John and Yoko, and wrote and recorded the song Give Peace a Chance. Situated at the center of Montreal’s vibrant cultural and commercial district, the city’s grandest and most gracious hotel offers 1,037 rooms, of which 100 are suites. As well as an acclaimed, state-of-the-art health club are three distinctive venues to experience the city’s finest culinary creations. Les Voyageurs Bar, Le Montréalais Bistrot-Bar and the award winning Beaver Club are all recognised to be among Canada’s best restaurants. www.fairmont.com/queenelizabeth

Forget everything you ever thought you knew about food and abandon all preconceptions of taste, smell, texture, sound and touch, all ye who enter The Fat Duck. Nestled in the rural hamlet of Bray, just a few miles outside Windsor in the UK, The Fat Duck is the triple Michelin-starred “gastro-pub” of eccentric food scientist, Heston Blumenthal. More of a social experiment in the way diners interact with food and their surroundings than a fine-dining restaurant, it is a must-try for every foodie visiting the UK. Experience Blumenthal’s creations from Snail Porridge, Bacon & Egg ice Cream and Salmon Poached with Liquorice to Oak Moss & Truffle Toast, as Blumenthal plumbs new depths of taste and texture with his cooking skills, which are based on the principles of molecular gastronomy. Blumenthal has also experimented on his cus-tomers’ response to food using sounds and other extra-sensory experi-ences, such as creating dishes that look, and sound, like the sea shore or employing waiters that can do magic tricks. Once you take your seat at the table, you can’t take anything for granted. The one thing you can be certain of, however, is that now that fellow food scientist Ferran Adria’s El Buli is gone forever, you won’t experience a restaurant like The Fat Duck anywhere else in the world. www.thefatduck.co.uk

G l O B e t r O t t e r

hotElrEStauraNt

. sur la terre . globe trotter . 41

impression BoutiqueWhere: doha, QataR

GPS: 25 ˚ 21’ 56.05” n, 51 ˚ 32’ 25.73” e

The latest addition to the Pearl Qatar’s Porto Arabia retail offering is guaranteed to leave a lasting impression, not just on your wallet, but also in your wardrobe. Featuring a range of luxury products, clothes and accessories, the concept store delivers a chic shopping experience. With a mission to provide the local market with a creative shopping experience while introducing labels that are not yet well-known in the Middle East region, impression Boutique also supports both aspiring and established local designers by showcasing their work alongside more well-known international brands. Located in Porto Arabia parcel one, next to Maze Restaurant and boasting a variety of products ranging from accessories to bang-on-trend shoes and clothes, this is a must visit retail experience for the region’s budding fashionistas. www.stylehousefashion.net

ShoppiNg

M1NT

Where: shanghai, China

GPS: 31 ˚ 14’ 05.04” n, 121 ˚ 29’ 03.41” e

For a fresh approach to private member’s clubs try a M1NT. With branches in Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Cannes. M1NT is more than just a member’s club. in fact, in many ways, it’s quite the oppo-site. M1NT is a modern day hangout for chic, professional and classy clientele that still enjoy a great party, yet in a sophisticated environ-ment. it’s a glamorous destination where you can dine, network and party with like-minded, high-wealth people in a world-class restau-rant, stylish cocktail lounge bar, stunning roof terrace and nightclub. you don’t have to be a member to visit, either, with the venue offering trial entry to its restaurant and bars, though some areas will remain off-limits. Annual membership is just over $1,000 which gives you guar-anteed access, including to special events, to any M1NT destination, entry to the M1NT Terrace, access to both “the world’s best business & social black book” and exclusive ViP tickets to a host of sporting, entertainment and social events worldwide. www.m1ntglobal.com

NightliFE

MoRe than the “Bear Necessities”

r e v u eh ot e l

Five pearls, For being the epitome of luxe London living, without the stiff-collared stuffiness of its counterparts.

- JA MES MCCA RTH y CHECKS iN AT BROW N’S. -

i find myself disembarking a taxi in one of London’s most desirable neighbourhoods, where i am greeted by an impeccably-attired, top hat and tailed doorman. On a seemingly nondescript street, nestled amongst the facades of Victorian town houses, and opposite a Graff Diamonds boutique, is the world famous Brown’s Hotel in Mayfair.

Perfecting the balance between a rich heritage and modern luxury, as a lifestyle destination for society’s elite for more than 170 years, the hotel’s credentials speak volumes.

it was established in 1837, when the former maid of the then Lady Byron bought four Mayfair townhouses and combined them together. Since then, the heavy steps of history have stalked the halls of 21-24 Dover Street, both before and after 1889 when it was combined with the St. George’s Hotel on Albemarle Street, where the main entrance to Brown’s now resides.

The high-end hostelry was home to Napoleon iii and his wife, Empress Eugenie, after they were compelled to leave France following the Franco-Prussian War in 1871, as well as former US President Theodore Roosevelt while he prepared for his wedding to Edith Kermit Carow.

Brown’s has also found itself on the cutting edge of technology. Not only was it one of the first hotels in London to have an elevator, but the world’s first telephone call was made from one of its rooms. in 1876, Alexander Graham Bell checked in to Brown’s before presenting his world-changing invention to the British government. During his stay, he placed a call to the then owner of the hotel, John Ford, at his home in Ravenscourt Park in nearby Hammersmith. This fine tradition remains to this day, with each of the rooms offering only the best tech, with Bang & Olufsen entertainment systems, Bose iPod docks and a high speed internet connection which, i am pretty sure, would have impressed Mr Bell.

42 . sur la terre . revue .

the world famous Brown’s Hotel . .

Queen Victoria, was a regular visitor for afternoon tea and without Brown’s, we might never have learned about the Bear Necessities Of Life, nor met Mowgli, as it was at a desk in one of the hotel’s 29 suites where Rudyard Kipling penned his literary classic, The Jungle Book.

The Kipling Suite remains today, named just that. Rocco Forte Director of Design, Olga Polizzi, has lovingly created a modern, yet seemingly colonial, space; complete with distressed hardwood floors and furniture, as well as an imposing fireplace, at which you could imagine Kipling standing with a glass of brandy, ruminating over his latest composition.

it is this beautifully mastered mash-up of modernity and tradition that makes Brown’s a wonderfully unique place to stay. you still have that elegant English veneer, underneath which a vibrant, modern, and in some cases, minimalistic approach breaks through the stuffiness and snobbery of many of its West End counterparts.

Nowhere is this more evident than in the bar area, where not only can you have a vodka martini prepared by a world championship mixologist, but the Paul Smith-inspired furnishings cock an almost rebellious snook at their old-world surroundings, all the while seeming like they belong there more than the aging oak beams.

As for my room, i was lucky enough to be billeted in the Albermarle Suite, an elegantly-attired 80 square metre space that is bigger than my West Bay apartment. With Polizzi’s stylish touch, it epitomises the best in central London living, with modern, yet inviting, furniture, coupled with soothing, yet subtle colour schemes. The Albermarle Suite also offers a private lobby, fully fitted sitting room with study, a bedroom with a super king sized bed and a bathroom complete with rainforest shower and TV-equipped bathtub.

The marshmallow bed, possibly one of the comfiest i have ever slept in, is opulently draped in 300-thread, soft Egyptian cotton, making getting up for check-out one of the most difficult acts of my hotel-hopping career. if i could afford a Mayfair man-pad, it would probably be a carbon copy of the Albermarle Suite, right down to the fully-stocked bookshelves and massive B&O TV.

All of this luxe-living can make an impoverished hack hungry, but residents of Brown’s are lucky to have world-class dining literally on the doorstep. HiX at the Albermarle is the brainchild of top restauranteur Mark Hix and, under the stewardship of Executive Chef, Marcus Verberne, offers an outstanding menu of great British classics, often with a clever twist.

From my potted Morcombe Bay shrimp starter, through to my 28-day aged Aberdeenshire fillet steak, every mouthful was a fanfare of contemporary British cuisine.

When polished off with the Bramley apple & blackberry crumble and washed down with a full-bodied Chianti Reserve, it was the making of an epicurean love affair.

Joining me for my meal were some of the cultural flag-bearers of “Cool Britannia.” While tucking into my steak, i was kept company by enfant terrible, Tracey Emin, conceptual genius Michael Landy and abstract specialist, Bridget Riley. They were not in person of course, but they were among the many contemporary artworks by leading British talent that adorn HiX’s walls.

When coupled with the Philippe Hurel-designed interior, vaulted ceiling and dark wood panelling, HiX delivers a fantastic atmosphere, making it the perfect start to any evening in London’s West End. With Piccadilly Circus a mere five minutes away on foot, HiX also gives you a chance to shed the calories of its hardy fare with a brisk stroll.

There is a lot more to Brown’s that space constraints preclude me from really waxing lyrical about, but in being unable to do so, it means that there is plenty left for you to discover for yourself.

it is difficult to sum up Brown’s in just a paragraph, so perhaps the final word should go to Mr Kipling, who once wrote, “God gives all men all of earth to love, but since a man’s heart is small, he ordains for each a single spot that shall prove beloved over all.” in London, at least, that spot is probably Brown’s.

. sur la terre . revue . 43

the Albermarle suite bathroom..

HIX at the Albermarle. .

the Albermarle suite. .

the Kipling suite. .

The last time Sur la Terre was given a BlackBerry to play with, it was last year’s Torch, and while we did rather enjoy the whole sliding phone/touchscreen concept, it was still missing something - an emotional connection perhaps, or a certain character. We just couldn’t put our finger on it (pardon the pun), but with the new Bold 9900, that has changed, and it starts from the inside out.

The “specs appeal” (if we may) is pretty gratifying on the new 9900. Not only does it use the much-touted new BlackBerry OS 7, a worthy, if not samey successor to the Torch’s OS 6 operating system of yesteryear, the Bold also comes beefed up with 8GB of internal memory (which can be boosted further to 32GB with a micro SD card), a 1.2GHz processor and 768MB of RAM, all of which give it a palpable difference when implementing some of its newer and/or enhanced features. These include, but are not limited to, the ability to read smart posters, noticeably faster internet browsing and enhanced download capabilities, especially for things like music files. it even boasts Near Field Communication (NFC) tech, although when that will be implemented to its full extent is open to guesstimation.

All of this is represented visually in roughly the same way that the BlackBerry faithful are used to, at least in terms of icon layout, navigation and basic interface, so jumping into the new Bold isn’t difficult, and in fact offers some nice surprises in the model family. The one thing we are glad that the 9900 took (and subsequently improved upon) from the Torch is its touchscreen. The VGA 640 x 480 pixel resolution is actually quite stunning, and necessary on the relatively diminutive 2.8” screen, especially if you want to search and read without straining too much. Obviously, with touchscreen capabilities, you can pinch and prod as easy as you like, and in this capability, the new 9900 does take some bold steps.

While in the Torch it seemed like more of a kitschy afterthought, the Bold is decidedly more comfortable with its double life. Switching between the two methods of navigation has never been easier, especially because there isn’t a level for your thumb to skip up like there was on the Torch. Now, this may mean that your optical track pad may become neglected, so make sure to give it some love while you’re swiping hither and thither on the touchscreen.

Obviously, the full QWERTy keyboard is also in full effect in the 9900, and in a tactile sense, is still a major selling point for BlackBerry. Luckily, the developers understood this when designing the new Bold, and decided to work to their strengths, implementing larger, more ergonomic buttons that really do provide a frankly more delightful textual experience.

iN THE NEW BOLD 9900, BLACKBERRy HAS FiNALLy RELEASED

A SMARTPHONE WiTH SOME SPiRiT, BUT WiTH ALL iTS

NEWFANGLED TRAPPiNGS, HAS RiM FiNALLy “SOUL-ED” OUT?

a BOlD stateMent

Somewhat surprisingly, BlackBerry seems to be taking hints from other corners of the market and is finally putting bigger things into smaller packages. At 115 x 66 x 10.5 mm, the BlackBerry Bold is the thinnest model to date, thus negating that awkward pocket bulge pitched by its older, chunkier brethren. in fact, the overall look of the 9900 is made slicker, not only by its svelte silhouette, but also by its more luxurious elements.

Plastic seems to have been banished from the line, instead being replaced in the sleek, facade-framing band of brushed stainless steel, as well as the side and top peripheral dedicated keys. Even its back is covered with class, this time coated with a high-gloss, carbon fibre finish.

Look, we’re not saying it’s perfect. After all, the 5 megapixel camera, which has a flash and can record at 720HD, is still pretty laughable in comparison with its competitors, and the BlackBerry app store continues to be pathetic. However, thanks to its size, weight (4.6 ounces), comfortable shape, super-fast interface and processing power, the Bold 9900 is, without a doubt, BlackBerry’s finest hour.

Fortune, it seems, truly does favour the Bold.

. sur la terre . revue .44

Three pearls, The camera is not up to standard and the BB App Store remains a frustrating shopping destination, but this is still the best thing BlackBerry has done in a while.

r e v u et e c h

When i joined the company back in 2006, it was bankrupt, and without wanting to pass judgment, some of the people before me had been heavily focused on men’s fashion; that is not the story of Dupont. i wanted to bring back the roots of the brand and concentrate on what we do best, and also create a range that was appealing to both male and female. So of course, one of the reasons i went to Karl, who is renowned for his work with Chanel and Fendi, was to open up the brand to a more female audience.

Karl is a fashion icon, but he is also such a fantastic designer in general and extremely talented in everything he is doing, not just fashion. What he does in all his projects is, to me, perfect style in tempo. it is not a fashion definition that is changing every season. He has this vision of persistency and that is what i was interested in – a creative, visionary genius in terms of design, which is much more than just fashion.

I n F O c u s

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fashion When

unitefor Karl Lagerfeld, there is always the thought in his mind of finding the right balance between fashion and function. So when i decided that the Dupont lighter, which has never been changed since it was first designed by the Dupont brothers in 1941, needed a new influence for the 21st century, there was

only one man for the job and that was Karl Lagerfeld.

When i first went to meet Karl at his bookshop and studio in Paris to ask him to collaborate with us on the Mon Dupont project, we immediately agreed that we were not trying to create a fashion item. We wanted something with a new vision and to create a new classic. Fashion is of course one dimension of luxury goods and important today in making them appealing, but this is not how the brand of S T Dupont has evolved. if you look at its history, the brand was originally a travel case and leather goods maker and, for over 100 years, the customer base was pretty much unisex, with as many women as men buying Dupont. it is only in the last 15 to 20 years that Dupont has pushed towards a more male audience.

Alain crevet breathes new l ife into the house of Dupont in a bold collaboration with design powerhouse, Karl lagerfeld . . .

heRitage

Fashion is a dimension of luxury goods, but there are two dimensions to what a pen or a lighter should be for a woman. Of course it should make a statement, but at the same time, a pen – or a lighter – is, by definition, a product which has an important function. Karl created his lighter almost like a lipstick, in the way it looks and works, with the flame almost hidden. Karl thinks with two dimensions in his mind – fashion and function. As well as creating a beautiful design, Karl is always thinking, “How can i make it more practical, convenient and usable?” if you look at the lighter, it fits exactly within the cigarette pack and is very light - fashion and function in perfect balance.

Of course, it is always a risk collaborating with someone outside the brand, as there is a danger of losing the history and tradition, but it is my duty to guard the house and not allow the brand DNA to be lost. i wasn’t expecting the whole process to be that easy with Karl, but he very quickly understood the brand essence. When he asked for the brief, i said to him, “With all your talent and creativity, please try to create a new line of pens and lighters for the 21st century and try to make them more unisex.” Within maybe two weeks, he called me back and said he had done 10 or 15 sketches. About 99% of them were right from the start. He knows the brand very well and told me the story of when he was a young man living in the centre of Paris in St Germain, and there was this little shop where Dupont products were sold. Karl would always say, “Tout Dupont c’est bon,” which means “Everything Dupont is great.” He kept this in mind as he grew up, later owning a Dupont lighter and, when i met him, writing with a Dupont pen.

Collaborating with designers outside of our field is important for the future of S T Dupont. Since our collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld, we are now looking for very talented people in different areas of design, not only fashion. We are already in contact with various designers in interior design and the art world to work on what will be the next generation of S T Dupont products. But one thing that remains important is to always remember that you can expand a brand, but you also need to be inspired and guided by your history and your roots.

- As PArIsIAn luXury lIFestyle

BrAnD s t DuPOnt celeBrAtes 70 yeArs OF tHeIr lIGHter AnD tHe ADvent OF tHeIr

140tH AnnIversAry In 2012, ceO MOnsIeur AlAIn crevet

BreAKs tHe MOulD wItH A BOlD cOllABOrAtIOn wItH FAsHIOn

IcOn KArl lAGerFelD.-

. sur la terre . in focus . 47

From design to production, Dupont is at the point of perfection.

the legacy and classicism of Dupont design has garnered the brand devotees with an appreciation for excellence.

“i BELiEV E A LEA F OF GR A S S iS NO LES S TH A N THE JOUR NEy-WOR K OF THE STA R S .” - Wal t Wh i t m a n -

thE v

iSio

Nary

. sur la terre . up close and personal . 51

u P c lO s e A n D P e r s O n A l

This is an exciting time to be in the branding business. Who are some of the shining lights in your opinion? if you mean which corporations are developing effective brand identities for themselves, then i would say that most corporations are getting it right and wrong at the same time. Allow me to explain.

Sigmund Freud hypothesised that the human personality comprises a trilogy of components: the Ego, the Super Ego and the id. The id is the motivator of the human survival instinct. Perpetual Expansion is the active expression of the human survival instinct in motion. Every dimension of civilisation and the ecosystemic complexity we have created is founded upon the notion of the Continuous Expansion process. it has transported us across oceans to new continents and finally, upward and into the outer space. But…global warming has exposed the physical impossibility of Continuous Expansion, the untenable nature of our current human condition.

Freud observed that the absolute mission for all living organisms is to return to the state of inertia from whence they came.

This he called the Thanatos Complex or Death Wish. The logical corollary to this is that if the relative objective of the human survival mechanism is self-preservation, then its ultimate objective must therefore be self-destruction. Remember that 99% of all the living things that have ever roamed the Earth are now extinct. The corporation is also a living organism and therefore subject to the same existential conditions, which means that the corporations’ agenda is also ultimately self-destruction.

This is why the corporation is “getting it wrong” by continuing to develop brands that are relevant only to the outmoded corporate agenda. instead, corporations should be focusing on the principle of Continuous Equilibrium.

What are some of your favourite projects to date? The Cooper Square Hotel is my favourite recent brand work because it is intellectually robust. Three necessary factors were identified as key to the success of the [project]: design, service and integration into Manhattan’s downtown creative culture.

. sur la terre . up close and personal .52

-DAvID OMI Is, In A wOrD,

sHArP. tHe eXecutIve creAtIve DIrectOr OF GrOw

In QAtAr HAs crAFteD AnD GuIDeD tHe IDentItIes OF

sOMe OF tHe wOrlD’s MOst FAMOus BrAnDs, IncluDInG AleXAnDer McQueen AnD AMerIcAn eXPress. GIFteD

wItH A creAtIve AnD tHOuGHtFul nAture, OMI

DOesn’t MIss A BeAt, tAKInG An IncIsIve vIew OF tHe

wOrlD we lIve In AnD tHe BrAnDs we OBsess Over.

He sPOKe tO us ABOut tHe BrAnDInG OF QAtAr AnD

sOMe OF HIs FAvOurIte PrOjects tO DAte.

-

David Omi

Breaking with convention, the Cooper Square marketing collateral uses atypical imagery to express the allure of the hotel, namely, its location in New york’s Lower East Side. instead of portraying convention rooms, the front lobby and other hotel amenities, the marketing material consists of photographs taken around the Cooper Square neighbourhood of the Lower East Side, using the spirit of place as a theme to create a communications piece that is truly unique.

i was also charged with creating interior environments and an identity for New york City’s first “green” boutique hotel, [Greenhouse 26]. Avoiding the superficial and commercialised “green experience,” i created a brand and interior that embraces the brutal and savage beauty of nature. Minimalism is contrasted with rich colours and textures. The graphics and messaging are inspired by the role time plays in nature as explored through romanticised decay, reclamation, rusts and patina.

You designed a brand identity for Alexander McQueen which perfectly captures his work’s subversive quality. Was the brand ethos easy to connect with? Was he easy to connect with? Of course! Lee [McQueen] was what we Brits call a “geeza.” My initial briefing sessions with him involved the two of us, my then-girlfriend and the late issey Blow, spending long nights in London’s East End clubs. The words “brand” and “ethos” never entered the conversation.

it was at this time seeing him in action as a person that the idea of presenting him to the fashion world as some kind of a cultural contradiction came to my mind. The essence of Lee’s brand manifested itself on the back of a cigarette packet after a good old chat in a noisy bar.

Were there any challenges in working with McQueen? Absolutely none when it came to dealing with McQueen. He knew exactly what he needed to do. His imperative was to make excellent clothes that reflected the zeitgeist. i understood his mission, end of story. The challenges came when he began to accrue “clipboard guardians.” All of a sudden, he was surrounded by a myriad of hangers-on and yes-men/women with all manner of agendas.

i remember seeing him from a distance at one of his shows once. His expression read: I am being eaten alive and there is nothing I can do about it. Gradually his purpose became less and less pure and increasingly unclear to him.

The enormous queue of people lining up to see the last of Alexander McQueen’s exhibition at the New york Met was conspicuous in the sense that hardly anyone appeared to have any discernible fashion sense. So why were they there? My suspicion is that Sarah Jessica Parker, patron saint of bridge and tunnel, had something to do with this massive throng of Bieber and Gaga wannabes. Once inside, i found myself surrounded by a myriad of Upper East Side matriarchs oohing and aahing over what amounted to glorified female bondage gear. At the show i suddenly felt very protective of Lee for some reason, and angry too. To see all these people, the Gagas and the Bjorks of this world, getting cheap publicity by declaring their undying admiration for a guy they never knew, postmortem, sickened me.

Lee was an innocent, and he endured a slow, agonising descent into creative absurdity courtesy of the fashion world’s venality and vacuity. He started out strong of mind and singular in his purpose. He ended up creating American football-inspired fashion with a Hokusai-esqe motif and glorified female bondage gear…

Of course the retort to this will be, “Nonsense, he understood the female form and psyche completely.” [yet] those shoes he designed, the ones that look like an elephant seal’s nostrils, are medical stirrups in disguise aren’t they? They impede and retard a woman’s progress in the world, quite literally. Have you ever seen video of his models trying to walk down a runway in those things? it’s hilarious to watch.

i think the NyC Met’s Alexander McQueen show should have been realised as a daily, live fashion event with real models on a runway. There was something woefully self-defeating about presenting his fashion behind glass using tailor’s dummies, something depressingly corporeal about the whole event. An event that missed the entire point of what should have been its natural objective, which was to convey and celebrate the spirit of Alexander McQueen.

What does Qatar need to take into account when creating and launching homegrown brands? All Qatari brands, both nascent and real, should align with and reflect the tenets of the Qatar National Vision. Branding is all about manipulating human perceptions of reality, creating illusions around physical existences. Right now the Qatar National Vision is an illusion, a very compelling and beautiful illusion nevertheless.

in order for it to become a reality, Qatari businesses and brands must act in ways that are relevant to the tenets of the vision. Having said that, Qatari businesses should also understand that any brands they choose to build will be perceived, for better or worse, as being inextricably linked to islam and the ongoing socio-economic circumstances of the MENA region.

Qatar shouldn’t be in a hurry to ape or import Western culture. When i come to Doha i love to go to the souq, not the interContinental Hotel. Any “westernised” businessman [arriving in] Doha cannot fail to see Qatar’s cultural dichotomy – the endeavour to reconcile the modesty of islam and its formative influence upon contemporary Arab life, with the contradictory social impositions of the western way of being and its all-consuming nihilism and permissiveness.

Qatar has instigated a process that will result in the actualisation of a model society, one that will hopefully serve to shine a light and guide the way for all humanity. So in 2022, when the world comes to call, Qatar had better be walking the “National Vision” talk or Qatar’s credibility on the world stage is going to suffer.

Are there any brands still on your wishlist to work with? i’d like to have a go at rebranding the Gap. Seriously, what happened there? i think the BBC needs to recover some of its “This is the BBC World Service” benign authoritative shtick. [And] i’d love to start gearing up Qatar Airways for the World Cup.


MakE

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artiS

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u P c lO s e A n D P e r s O n A l

Cesar Santos

What are your pet-hates when it comes to seeing make up on women and what are the most common mistakes you see being made? Women must choose a foundation of the correct shade, because it is quite difficult for some women to get a good balance. For example women that have yellow-toned skin wouldn’t want to have a pink-toned foundation as it wouldn’t look right. i would have to say that this is the most common mistake. it is also very important for individual females to get the right foundation

When you’re walking around and you see women with their make-up what’s the thing that grates you and makes you the angriest about their make-up? i was asked that question yesterday; i don’t really know how to answer it. it’s not really their make-up that makes me angry, i just question what they are aiming for in terms of how they look. But i can understand that their perception of what is beautiful and what is not is possibly different from others. i find the majority of women like to have lots of blush on, i also think that their association with blush is that it’s warm and makes them feeler healthier, but there is a limit before they start to have the clown effect. Having said that, it is quite difficult to say what is right and what is wrong as everyone’s perceptions of beauty are different, but to me excessive use of blush is annoying.

In this part of the world they are very keen on thick-set make-up with the heavy use of eye liner. What do you think of the traditional make-up used?Well, it goes against our philosophy of less is more and, over the last ten years with Armani, we are trying to show that you are still able to achieve that same look with less make-up. Especially nowadays with Armani cosmetics using the latest technology, it enables women to achieve their desired look through a minimalistic approach and avoid looking caked in make-up.

Applying make-up can be seen as an artist applying paint to a canvas. What in your opinion is the most fundamental rule about perfecting the art of make-up application? Use a good brush. The best brushes enable you to give the best application. i think brushes are very fundamental in the action of applying make-up.

Is there a specific technique you should use with the brush? The technique you use with the brush depends on what make-up is being used and what look is trying to be achieved. With foundation, it is good to have a subtle touch, but with eye-shadow, you can just put it on. Another

common mistake that women tend to make is that when using an eye-shadow they tend to get the brush and load it with too much, which causes it to fall into the eyes. The best way to do it is to gradually build up the eye-shadow layer by layer. it is better to gradually apply the make-up over a period of time to ensure that you have the right amount applied to the face. it is what we call the wardrobe of the face.

As a makeup artist, you have done movies, fashion and catwalks. What is the one tool or product that you feel that you can’t do without and why?One product that i can’t do without… well its quite difficult to put it down to just the one product as there are so many individual items that we use. Obviously foundation is essential because it’s key to even out the skin and to ensure that the facial features stand out. When working at fashion shows and photo shoots you need some colour, but if you don’t have the right foundation to even out the skin then the colour won’t sit properly, so one depends on another in this case. Foundation is the key of everything. you don’t need eye-shadow or blush to be honest; as long as your skin looks flawless, you can make it work.

In your experience, things can’t run smoothly all the time. What has been your biggest make-up disaster and how did you turn it around and make it work? My biggest make-up disaster? To be honest i don’t believe i have had one. Do you know why? Because i listen. i have not had any disasters really, but i have had some very difficult jobs but i got through them because i listened to the clients and understood exactly what they wanted. i also feel that if you start off lighter and then gradually get darker, it limits the amount of errors that you could face.

Let’s talk briefly about trend. What are the make-up trends that you see coming into the forefront in the next year or two? The trends from the 1970s seem to be coming back into fashion. Bright, shiny colours will be making an appearance. Dark, coppery tones are also coming in to use. i think it’s all about the use of colours, whether they be dark or bright; like Disco, but translated in a different way, not so up front. i think, it’s more about using matte colours and trying to get a shine in the make-up instead of excessive use. But really i don’t think you could say that there is one trend that will be the focus; this is because there are always many different trends working alongside each other.

Armani Cosmetics are now exclusively available in Doha at The Gate

—FresH FrOM tHe FAces OF KIM cAtrAll, PenelOPe cruz AnD lADy Helen tAylOr wInDsOr, ArMAnI cOsMetIcs’ FAce DesIGner AnD MAKe-uP ArtIst eXtrAOrDInAIre, cesAr sAntOs, OFFers HIs tOP

tIPs AnD tecHnIQues FOr A PerFect lOOK. —


ABS Sur La Terre 24cm x 33.5cm new.pdf 1 9/20/11 1:39 PM

preciousVIrTUeS

styling Gloria storchi and samantha colocciphotographer Fabrizio Nannini

An extraordinary packaging for the new serums, the essence by La Mer, White-gold and Brilliant Gourmette, pomellato

B e Au t y

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skin vivo cream, Biotherm Ebony and diamond necklace, rings vhernier

. sur la terre . beauty .58

cream cellulaire platinum rare, La prairiesoin pinceau éclat instantané, top secret YsL. Golden earrings Bogh-Art

. sur la terre . beauty . 59

supremya la nuit, le grand soin anti-âge, sisley, sublimage la créme, chanel, watch with diamonds, patek philippe, frog shape Ring, Roberto coin, glasses tom Ford by Marcolin

. sur la terre . beauty .60

F e At u r e

iN ModEl fashion

tHey HAve tHe sArtOrIAl KnOw-HOw, An envIABle BlAcK BOOK OF cOntActs

AnD An unrIvAlleD FAsHIOn FOllOwInG. sOPHIe jOnes-cOOPer eXPlOres wHy sO

MAny MODels steP OFF tHe runwAy AnD OntO tHe DesIGn FlOOr.

. sur la terre . feature .62

Walking down the runway in 8-inch heels and a cut-away swimsuit with not even a ripple of cellulite on display is an art in itself, as is maintaining a size zero fat-free frame. Also, looking effortlessly beautiful, even on a bad hair day, in front of Mario Testino’s lens

is a talent few possess. Perhaps that is why the world’s top models won’t get out of bed for ridiculous sums of money; they are becoming celebrities for far more than their fifteen minutes of runway fame. it doesn’t help that endless TV shows are broadcast at prime time in search of the next batch of unique talent. Modelling is big business, but one which starts young, and comes with a limited shelf life. Once a success, not necessarily always a success.

Today it is not unusual to see young teenagers taking to the runway, and for model scouts, their direction is clear - the younger the better. The recent outrage over a shoot published in French Vogue featuring a ten year old girl in gold stilettos posing on leopard print bedsheets, proves that there is concern over the age of today’s models. However, with such short-lived careers (by their early twenties it can be game-over for many models), the industry is catching them young, and most models are walking their way into a career which will be over before many of their fellow schoolmates have even begun to embark on theirs.

So what comes next for the exceptionally tall and skinny? With the personality and confidence to strut around in next to nothing, years of wearing some of the most beautifully designed and well-tailored clothes ever seen, working with some of the best designers in the business and witnessing the progression of some of the most renowned fashion houses, for many models there is one obvious road to take, and that is a stroll down Fashion Avenue into the world of fashion design.

. sur la terre . feature . 63

Heidi Klum..

Helena christensen. .

naomi campbell . .

For some, a second career in fashion design is a chance to fulfil their lifelong ambition to design their own collection rather than model it, fuelling their passion for fashion off the runway. For others, it is a fast track route to the top of a more sustainable career, for which they have many of the required attributes. Many of the infamous Victoria’s Secret models have gone on to thriving second careers in fashion design and other areas including TV and business. Take Tyra Banks and Gisele Bündchen for example.

Chief Marketing Officer of Victoria’s Secret, Edward Razek, puts this down to the skill set and training they acquired during their modelling careers. “They have a certain level of confidence that bodes well for whatever they want to do going forth,” explains Edward. “Being a Victoria’s Secret model takes a certain personality type that translates perfectly to other, more professional endeavours,” he adds. So with their natural talents, personality types and experience in the field, not to mention their huge fan base and mass appeal, fashion collaborations come knocking for many models. Running off the back of an established brand and making a name for themselves as a designer, without baring all and risking failure single-handedly, is an appealing step to design success.

Supermodel Helena Christensen went down the fashion design route, but instead of teaming up with an existing brand, joined forces with friend, Leif Siegersen. Unfortunately, without the backing of a big name brand, Helena struggled and the ten-piece collection didn’t quite have the rosy outcome she was expecting. “We did it all ourselves, and it was probably the toughest gig i’ve ever done in my life,” explains Helena. “if i ever was to design again, i would want the support of a brand who already has the experience.”

So the backing of a big fashion name certainly does help in the transition from front of house to back of house. These big players have the experience and know-how, and offer a well-known place for the new model designers to hide behind and learn the tricks of the trade, doing as little or as much of the designing as they can handle. Brands are also not stupid, bringing on board a famous face with celebrity status is a no-brainer when it comes to boosting awareness and generating sales.

Supermodel Naomi Campbell signed a deal with italian brand Fiorucci to collaborate on a jeans collection. Having largely retired from the runway more than 10 years ago, this is one style gathering that is certainly more about a brand’s marketing strategy than Naomi’s dedication to becoming a fashion designer. Who wouldn’t want Naomi’s name attached to their brand? On the other hand, who wouldn’t hope that by buying Naomi’s jeans, we too might be able to make our bum look as good as hers?

Perhaps the most well-reported model-to-designer story is that of Kate Moss, who, while having made quite a name for herself away from the runway with her much followed personal life, also achieved instant design success with her exclusive collaboration with Topshop back in 2007. Kate was reportedly paid £3 million for her work on the fifty strong range, which was inspired by her very own wardrobe and included skinny jeans, tops and bags. The collection caused an overwhelming fashion frenzy, proving Kate’s talents and popularity went far beyond simply striking a pose. After three years and 14 collections, however, Kate’s contract with Topshop came to an end.

We’re not sure if it ended because Kate’s talent didn’t match her passion for fashion design, if the novelty of creating high street clothes began to flail or simply because shoppers decided they wanted more for their money than just copycats of Kate’s wardrobe, but while Kate’s foray into fashion success may be currently over, her mass appeal is still holding strong. After all, fashion design is just another string in her very talented bow.

Christy Turlington is another success story, proving early on in her career that she is far more than just a pretty face, leaving the runway behind at the tender age of just 25 and at the height of her modelling career. Christy didn’t just propel herself into a new career, she went back to college and gained a degree before going on to hit the entrepreneurial jackpot. Not only did she achieve success with a yoga wear line and clothing lines for Puma, she also turned her hand to writing, publishing a yoga book. She even dabbled in beauty with a skincare line. Christy is one model-turned-businesswoman and designer destined to be a success off the runway before she even stepped foot on it.

Today, it seems our models, even if they are no longer full-time on the runway, still can’t leave the camera lens behind, and as well as designing collections, they are posing for them too. Heidi Klum, who has already worked on a jewellery line and a collection for Birkenstock, has recently designed a denim collection for Jordache called “Heidi Klum for Jordache.”

64 . sur la terre . feature .

“I wAs BeInG OFFereD sO MAny cOllABOrAtIOns

FOr A lOnG tIMe,” eXPlAIns BrItIsH MODel AleXA

cHunG, wHO In 2010 DecIDeD tO cOllABOrAte On A

cOllectIOn wItH us FAsHIOn lABel MADewell, A suBsIDIAry

OF j crew. “tHey seeMeD reAlly InteresteD In My

IDeAs AnD It’s A BrAnD tHAt I reAlly ADMIre.”

Along with designing the clothes, Heidi is also fronting the campaign.

Erin Wasson, the face of Parisian brand Zadig & Voltaire, is also multi-tasking, splitting her time between modelling and designing. Having fronted the Zadig & Voltaire campaigns for several seasons and also having launched a successful jewellery line of her own, Erin Wasson has now teamed up with Zadig & Voltaire’s designer, Thierry Gillier, to design a capsule collection for their latest AW 11 line.

So it seems the transition between wearing the clothes and designing them is a smooth move for today’s models, and an easy route to sustained success, especially when teamed up with an established brand.

As irving Berlin once said, “The toughest thing about success is that you’ve got to keep on being a success.” Once the looks are gone, the fashion lives on.

“the toughest thing about success is that you’ve got to keep on being a success.”

- IrvInG BerlIn

. sur la terre . feature . 65

christy turlington. .

erin wasson. .

Have you always been driven by fashion? No, growing up i was a tomboy that played basketball every day and i refused to wear a dress. i even went to the barbershop with my dad to get my hair cut. Everyone thought i was my big sister’s scruffy little brother.

What did you want to be when you grew up? i wanted to be a chef as i love to cook and i also love food in general! i’m the girl who feeds all her friends. i must be one of the few New yorkers who knows how to use their kitchen. Perhaps it’s because i’m from Texas and it’s my Southern side coming out!

Have you always been ambitious and driven by success? yes, i have my mother’s work ethic. Even though i didn’t even think of becoming a model when i was younger, now that i’m here, i like to give it my all.

So your career in modelling came unexpectedly? it was completely unexpected. My father entered me into a local model search in the Dallas Morning News newspaper in my hometown without me knowing when i was 15 years old. i ended up winning. i didn’t have dreams of becoming a model, i just ran with it to see how far it would go. Now almost 20 years later, the rest is history.

How would you describe your own style? it changes every day, but jeans and a white t-shirt is my go-to look, with a slightly dishevelled edge. i like an effortless look. you won’t find me wearing anything pink, frilly or with bows on it.

Do you ever make fashion mistakes? We all make mistakes, but as long as you wear it with confidence, it’s absolutely fine! i don’t remember what i wore yesterday.

What’s been your favourite personal fashion moment? Presenting my collection at Bryant Park was a highlight.

Who inspires you? i’m inspired on a daily basis by people i pass on the street. i love it when you see someone wearing something completely different, eccentric or kooky. i see girls walking in the East Village in New york who look so cutting edge without spending a fortune on fashion. They have an eye for style that’s completely amazing.

With so much success at such a young age, how do you keep your feet on the ground? By checking out and spending time with people i love. it’s great to be in a position where i can just go and escape to a city somewhere and lose myself for a couple of days as well.

What’s the biggest misconception about your career? That it’s easy. i work hard at trying to be a successful model as well as a designer.

What has been the highest point of your career? Developing my own brand has been very satisfying. i love to design clothes and jewellery, and it’s great to see it available in stores.

What part of your career are you most passionate about: modelling, styling or designing? i appreciate all aspects of my career and feel grateful to experience the different facets of each industry.

What are the best and worst parts of your job? i’m fortunate that my job takes me to some of the most gorgeous places in the world and i get to experience different cultures. This is one of the things i love about my job. in terms of the unglamorous side, the early call times can be a killer. it helps to be able to embrace early mornings in this industry!

Where is your favourite place in the world to get away from it all and relax? Hawaii and Austin, Texas. When i go to Hawaii, i just chuck a white t-shirt, a pair of cut-off denim shorts, a pair of flip flops and a couple of bathing suits in a small bag. That’s all i need to be on the beach! i almost bought a ranch in Austin. it’s a beautiful place, is close to where i grew up and i’d love to retire to somewhere i can ride horses.

What’s next on your agenda? My new line for Zadig & Voltaire will be available in the AW 11 collection. i’m very excited for the unveiling, as it’s something we’ve worked really hard on. Apart from that, you will have to wait and see.

sur lA terre sPeAKs tO erIn wAssOn ABOut Her FAsHIOn jOurney FrOM MODel tO DesIGner

66 . sur la terre . feature .

t r e n D s cOnFIDentIAl

When it comes to dressing up, like many girls, since i was old enough to push my toddler feet to the front of my mum’s patent stilettos, i adorned myself in a frenzy of silk scarves and as many necklaces as i could pile on without toppling over. i only ever

wanted to be a beautiful princess. Never once did i want to dress up in my dad’s suits or borrow my brother’s slacks. Well, i may have trudged around in my dad’s size 11 boots, but that was purely for the attention-seeking laughs i would get from the rest of my family.

While i was tottering around in sequins and feathers, my friend would run a mile at the idea of parading around with fl owers in her hair or pretending to be a fairy. She dispelled the fuss of frills and lace for her brother’s baggy t-shirts and rough and ready jeans – a stereotypical tomboy you could say. At the time, i could never understand why a girl would want to dress like a boy; and lest it be said, this particular friend wasn’t in my ballet class or playing shoe shops with me after school. But just because she dressed “boyish,” it made her no less feminine and she went on to break more hearts than me, doing so in far more comfortable shoes.

Of course, as i grew up i began to understand the ease of choosing baggy tops and trousers over fussy blouses and fl irty dresses.

. sur la terre . trends confidential .68

One season, two distinct moods. Sophie Jones-Cooper explores this season’s style dilemma… Will it be masculine or feminine?

. sur la terre . trends confidential . 69

i even went through a teenage stage of making little effort and simply throwing on a pair of leggings and a rugby shirt. i have always admired those women who decide to wear a tuxedo to a cocktail party or pull off cigarette pants, flats and a mannish overcoat. Sure, i have a blazer or two, and sometimes there is nothing better than ditching the gripping pencil skirt for the comfort of my partner’s shirt and my “boyfriend” jeans, but i am a feminine dresser and always will be.

That was until i saw the A/W 11 collections. if there ever was a season to do more than just throw on my linen blazer or don a pair of brogues and attempt the boy-meets-girl look, it would be this autumn. After seeing the collections firsthand in London, Milan and Paris, it is clear that androgynous chic is giving feminine ladylike dressing a run for its money.

This autumn there is a choice… either let out your inner tomboy and embrace the boy-meets-girl style of androgynous chic, or unleash your hidden feminine glamour siren and flourish in all things utterly feminine. What will it be?

Masculine-edged dressing is the ideal alternative to all things girly and comes in a sleek, cool and sultry new guise for the new season. if there was one designer who sums up this penchant for the more masculine style of dressing, it would be a hard choice between Dolce & Gabbana and Chanel. At Dolce & Gabbana, whose A/W 11 campaign is in fact entitled “Masculine vs. Feminine,” their collection certainly crosses the “t’s” and dots the “i’s” of ‘boy meets girl’. Girls are dressed up as boys in sharp suits, Blues Brothers socks, mannish overcoats and stiff shirts, as well as girls still being girls in lace and sequin figure hugging pencil dresses and billowing chiffon star print dresses.

Chanel, pioneers of empowering women to dress masculine, send tomboy-sexy subversion out in baggy mannish trousers complete with turn-ups, distressed jeans, heavy lace-up work boots and tailored suits in a nonchalant palette of grey.

Stella McCartney is also no stranger to a spot of masculine tailoring. Her simple and effortless looks are the perfect example of how boyish dressing doesn’t need to be baggy and dishevelled if you want a cooler, more minimal and elegant look. Stella’s suits and pants for autumn are sharp and sleek, and tops and blazers are oversized yet structured to perfection. it may be a key trend for the new season, but this masculine influence over our wardrobes is nothing new. Back in 1923, Coco Chanel first introduced the female suit and although it was a skirt and jacket, it was, without a doubt, more unisex than anything that had come before it.

She rebelled against the rules of fashion and proved that women didn’t need a strict corset to look good, and masculine attire could be even more alluring than regular women’s wear. yves St Laurent then went on to introduce Le Smoking tuxedo for women in 1966, giving birth to another new razor sharp masculine style of dressing for women.

Throughout the decades, women have rocked the androgynous look and made mannish dressing sexy. Flash back to the 30s and actress Katharine Hepburn was often captured in trousers and oxfords while Marlene Dietrich became renowned for her suits and ties.

Dolce & Gabbana. . stella Mccartney. . chanel . .

. sur la terre . trends confidential .70

Bianca Jagger rocked the ySL trouser suit and the 80s saw Chrissie Hynde of The Pretenders become the queen of androgyny. Today the ever-cool Kate Moss, boyish brogue-wearing Alexa Chung and quirky Chloë Sevigny certainly know how to rock boyish bravado, and more and more celebrities are opting for this effortless style. At the recent Venice Film Festival, Evan Rachel Wood and Monica Bellucci both opted for dapper Dolce & Gabbana monochrome suits, proving masculine can in fact be feminine.

The style secret? Keeping things sexy and finding the right balance between male and female. Enjoy the comfort and wearability of men’s clothing, but with the style of a woman. if you are going to sport some slick boyish cigarette pants, balance with a more feminine flesh bearing top, or if going the whole nine yards and opting for a gentlemanly tuxedo over a cocktail dress, ditch the brogues and opt for sky high heels to add a feminine spin.

But as James Brown once sang, “This is a man’s world, but it wouldn’t be nothing without a woman or a girl,” and if you are still yearning for something even more feminine and the idea of even an oversized mannish coat fills you with dread, autumn’s overtly ladylike, glamorous and feminine fashion offers a dressing-up box of options for a very womanly wardrobe.

Designers including Gucci, Miu Miu, Donna Karan and Louis Vuitton all took inspiration from the womanly silhouettes of the forties with figure-skimming pencil skirts, cinched waists courtesy of slim belts and shrugs, pearls and gloves for added glamour.

The hourglass silhouette is back and oozes femininity, but for a more subtle approach to ladylike dressing, dainty floral tea dresses, Peter Pan collars and sixties-inspired shift dresses are a must.

The gorgeous go-go girl spirit of the sixties is back in full swing. At Prada, the dropped waist shift makes a welcome return. At Burberry, bold and playful coats with over-sized buttons and flirtatious bellbottom flares keeps girly playful yet sophisticated, while at Bottega Veneta, modish two-piece skirt suits are the epitome of feminine elegance.

Autumn’s new round shouldered silhouette and bell-shaped skirts also offer a fresh alternative to the traditional hourglass shape. Rounded sleeves, puff shoulders and pannier skirts up the volume and exaggerate womanly curves for a subtle and chic effect, making way for a soft but utterly feminine new season silhouette.

if you find yourself falling somewhere between the allure of such feminine shapes and the ease of more masculine styles, a purist approach may be the way out of autumn’s dressing up box, with subtle layers, tunics over trousers and demure polo necks.

But if a style winner crowned for autumn, then i go back to Dolce & Gabbana, who so rightly postulated: “Who will win? The answer lies within you.” i know where i stand and it involves a figure-hugging Roland Mouret pencil skirt; that being said, i could be tempted into Michael Kors’ sparkly sequin trousers and plunging v-neck white blouse… just so long as i have killer heels to match. The question is, what will you decide? Will you man up for autumn?

Bottega veneta . . Gucci . . Donna Karan. .

. sur la terre . look book .72

paiNt thE toWN

There is one colour not only on everyone’s lips this season, but on everything from head to toe.

This is one alert that is most defi nitely red.

lO O K B O O K

TOP TiP: Take this look to the max with an LRD (little red dress) and matching red bag, or if you want to inject a little colour go with animal print or black.

BAG Jil Sander at Net-a-porter.com, SUNGLASSES Oliver Peoples at Net-a-porter.com, DRESS Roksanda ilincic, TOP ASOS.com, DRESS Hoss intropia, BELT Versace BAG Versace, SCARF Lilly and Lionel at Boutique1.com, SHOES Coye Nokes at Boutique1.com, SHOES Dolce & Gabbana at Net-a-porter.com, BAG Tod’s, SHOES Charlotte Olympia exclusively at Symphony

. sur la terre . look book . 73

HIGH DEFINITIONSharp and astute, autumn calls for structured collars,

sharp austere tailoring and bursts of bold colour

LO O K B O O K

SCARF Mulberry at MrPorter.com, SUNGLASSES Louis Vuitton, BELT Maison Martin Margiela at MrPorter.com, SHOES ASOS.com, COAT 3.1 Phillip Lim at Boutique1.com, COAT by J Jasper Conran at Debenhams, COAT J Jasper Conran at Debenhams, SHIRT Y-3 at Boutique1.com, COAT Urban Outfi tters, SOCKS ASOS.com, TROUSERS 3.1 Phillip Lim at Boutique1.com, TROUSERS APC at MrPorter.com.

TOP TIP: Don’t be afraid of electric brights. For a subtle hint of colour go with a pair of bright socks or go all out with a pair of vibrant trousers.

Sharp and astute, autumn calls for structured collars, sharp austere tailoring and bursts of bold colour

A rtO P I A

. sur la terre . artopia .74

artopia:Best of the festivals

(MontReal)

75

Starting in Montreal at the end of May is a sound-filled salvo of music events that always draw together crowds throughout Quebec’s largest city. Since we were there covering Qatar Airways’ inaugural flight to the city, we decided to take a closer look at the artistry of the Montreal festival culture! the International jazz Fest (copyright jean-François leblanc). .

Weekly Wonders. Taking place on the city’s famous mountain, Mount Royal, is Le Tam-Tams du Mont Royal, a chilled-out, hippy-esque, family-friendly get together set to bongos and all other kinds of drums. if you’re in the mood for something a bit more eclectically electric, there is also the weekly Piknic Electronik. its mission, according to its website: “to democratise the world of electronic music and to highlight the innumerable talents of the local and international electronic scenes.” This one in particular comes highly recommended by Tanya Churchmuch, who is not only the Assistant Director of international Relations at Tourisme Montréal, but also a regular attendee of the event, and many others like it.

Local Legends. Montreal teems with life, as well as a love of it, during the summer, and you literally stumble into events happening at every nook and cranny throughout the city. One of the festivals that showcases these acts is the Nuits d’Afrique, which celebrates the culture and music of Africa. One of the acts to perform at the festival this year was Labess. Led by Algerian-born singer, songwriter and gifted guitarist, Nedjim Bouizzoul, Labess rocked a local venue with the high-energy style for which they have gained much local notoriety.

An absolute must for visitors to Montreal from the Middle East, Bouizzoul and Labess, who often play around the city and province of Quebec, tickle their ever-growing fan base with a fervent, euphonic euphoria, taking traditional Algerian music and twisting it into an infectious manic beauty, parading it across the stage and into the crowd like a frenzied dancer. This one comes HiGHLy recommended.


ratatat (copyright nick leger and tim snow). .

le tam-tams du Mont royal (copyright stéphan Poulin). .

Piknic electronik (copyright Piknic electronik). .

. sur la terre . artopia . 77

International Icons. The annual international Jazz Fest is probably the best-loved and most well known of the summer festivals thanks to its 30+ year history, as well as the sheer musical might it draws every year. in 2011, it was sung in with more style than seems humanly possible, with a pre-show launch by Robert Plant’s Band of Joy and an opening show by the inimitable Prince, not to mention a week-long waltz of the genre’s international A-listers.

if you’re not into “all that jazz,” then you should definitely discover my new favourite music festival; the one that so perfectly encapsulates everything about Montreal: Osheaga.

Now in its sixth year, the three day festival called Osheaga is hosted at Montreal’s Parc Jean-Drapeau, and offers every aspect of the aural aesthetic. From the first day, it was evident that this year was going to be special, with fans of local Ontario indie favourites, Broken Social Scene, standing side-by-side with the synth-pop disciples of Canadian-born artist, Lights. Closing the first day, however, was probably the reason that this year’s Osheaga pulled in a massive crowd of over 81,000 fans: Eminem, whose medley of greatest hits set the tone for the next two days.

What followed on the second day was a further saturation of sound from literally every strum within the music scene, from the poppy hip-hop party of Lupe Fiasco to the painfully passionate final set by the now-retiring Bright Eyes. On the other side of the spectrum, Ratatat tripped the lids off the kids with a spastic electronic spectacular, just before Elvis Costello and The imposters brought it all home.

The final day was quite possibly the most essential, and by far the best of the festival. Top indie bands, like Scotland’s Frightened Rabbit, Canada’s City & Colour (Dallas Green) and the incomparable Beirut serenaded the heaving masses with amazing melody. These were coupled with more mainstream, but just as impressive to see live fare, like the Eels, White Lies and Death Cab For Cutie.

The Flaming Lips closed the festival in the only way the intergalactic gurus know how, with the kinetic power of implausible pageantry, a space bubble and the impromptu marriage of two fans right on stage.

it was the perfect end to a perfect long weekend of lounging in the grass, enjoying the impressive selection of catering and listening to the best collection of music in recent memory. Doha and Dubai might play at shows like these, but through Osheaga, the Jazz Festival and all of its other festivals, Montreal turns live entertainment into an art-form.

Le Tam-Tams du Montreal

www.tourisme-montreal.org Piknic Electronik

www.piknicelectronik.com Nuits d’Afrique

www.festivalnuitsdafrique.comLabess

www.labess.com international Jazz Festival

www.montrealjazzfest.com Osheaga

www.osheaga.com

ROCK ANDROLL CALL

Beirut (copyright Pat Beaudry). .


the Flaming lips (copyright Pat Beaudry). .

Firstly, Osheaga is a strange name for a festival. What does it mean? When we were looking for a name for the festival, we wanted something to do with Montreal, so we searched on the internet for associated words until we came across Hochelaga. So we Googled that and found Osheaga, which was the original name of Montreal from even earlier. it means “a shaking of hands” or “a meeting place,” which is kind of fitting for what Osheaga is. When we first Googled Osheaga, we found that there were about six Google results. Now there are probably about half a million.

You’ve been with Osheaga since it began in 2006. Why was it first started, and why in Montreal? There have always been tons of touring festivals in Montreal, but some of them just never worked here. We felt the need for more of a local flavour. The problem with touring festivals is that some things that work in your city, don’t in others. Having, i don’t know, a successful Stevie Wonder show in one city doesn’t mean its going to work in another. We saw that need to make a successful local festival and decided to create something of our own. We are all from Montreal, we were all born and raised here, our offices are here - it just all made sense.

What goes into programming a monster of a festival like this? When does your role officially start before the festival and when, if ever, does it end afterwards? i guess it all starts with the headliners and some of the key acts that we want. Two of the first bands that we booked for this festival last year were City and Colour and Crystal Castles, because we knew that they are amazing and that they are blowing up right now. When those kinds of opportunities present themselves, we go for them right away.

But we work on it all year. A couple of months ago, we started sending out offers for Osheaga 2012. We’re constantly thinking about things we need to fix. it’s almost like a postmortem in our heads all the time; like, “Bands didn’t have enough beer last year, so let’s make sure they have enough beer this year.” We’re constantly evolving and revolving in our heads. it’s just GO! GO! GO! all the time.

In years past, you’ve hosted talents like Coldplay, Snoop Dogg, The Smashing Pumpkins, Arctic Monkeys, Arcade Fire and Bloc Party, each one a rousing success. This year, however, upwards of 81,000 people attended Osheaga, the highest in its history. What made this year the most popular in the festival’s six-year history? i think that a huge part of this year’s success was Eminem, and just the combination of our line up. Adding Beirut, City and Colour, Death from Above 1979, Flaming Lips, and Deathcab For Cutie just made for a huge day and people embraced it!

When we first started, it was very hard to convince bands to play. We had an idea of what Osheaga was going to be, but telling people about it and selling it was hard. That first year, Flaming Lips, Ben Harper, Sonic youth and Metric were our top four acts and just trying to convince them to play our festival was pretty difficult, but we spoke to the agents, we built close relationships with them and they believed in us.

i also think our brand has gotten to a point where people want to go to the festival for maybe one or two bands, or just to experience the atmosphere. you get a nice day in the park, you get to see some music and you get to hang out and have a beer. it’s reached that point where people are going to buy tickets because of what it is and not necessarily for who is playing.

Osheaga seems focused on giving its audience more of that “style shuffle” feel than some other festivals. Is that intentional, and if so, why? it’s very important for us to be super-eclectic and give something for everybody. if you like only Hip Hop for example, we’ll have about two or three Hip Hop bands a day to suit your tastes. you also might be able to discover a couple other cool bands if you are interested or open minded. in Montreal, we’re multi-ethnic and multi-cultural, which is just how Osheaga is with every genre of music.

How important is it for Osheaga to showcase Montreal’s homegrown music scene, and do you think this somehow contributes to weaving the soul of a festival like this? That’s partly the goal, really: to grow our own bands here. From day one, we have invited local bands to play. We try to give them a shot, because some of them are super talented and they deserve to be seen. it’s hard to do that in small clubs all the time, but if you are put into a situation where you have 20,000 people walking around and someone important catches them, that’s great!

What advice would you give to events organsiers who want to achieve Osheaga’s success? you’ve got to concentrate on finding the bands and defining the experience. if you have those two things in position, everything really does come together nicely. Talent is super important, but if you create a great environment and people are happy, talent will follow.

The Gulf is about 14 hours away (by plane) from Montreal. Is Osheaga worth the trip? Absolutely. you will never experience anything like it.

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“ THE POETRy OF THE EA RTH iS NEV ER DEA D.” - Jo h n K e a t s -

. sur la terre . in motion .82

ChauSSurE du jour

I n M Ot I O n

. sur la terre . in motion . 83

Kevin Hackett falls fashion victim to the

allure of the new Range Rover Evoque

I realise this might be a bit of a stretch, but imagine, if you will, a beautiful, brand new pair of killer Louboutins with indecently high heels, intricate detailing and those fabulous, world famous red leather soles. They’re on the slender feet of a leggy lady and all eyes are on her as she struts her stuff, knowing full well that women are

jealous and men are dissolving into pools of their own drool. Still with me? Thought not.

Anyway, just to take this scenario to a ridiculous extreme, imagine also that this bombshell walks through a luxurious hotel lobby, outside and onto a muddy adventure playground where she clambers around, getting those beautiful shoes covered in wet soil. The shoes grip the slippery surface like a couple of limpets and she doesn’t falter for a second, no matter what ridiculous incline she takes to attack the rough stuff. Then, once she’s had enough, she simply climbs down onto terra-firma, hoses down the heels, walks back through the lobby and no slack-jawed observer is any the wiser. She’s still looking hot to trot.

That’s the new Range Rover for you. it might have a stupid name, but the Evoque is nothing short of a fashion sensation. it’s the automotive equivalent of those imaginary heels – it turns heads, it makes its user look way cooler than he or she actually is, it makes a visual statement like a sock to the jaw and yet, despite its catwalk good looks, it can cut it with the best of them when it’s time to venture off piste and get up to its axles in sloppy terrain.

This thing will sell by the hundreds of thousands and the people at Jaguar Land Rover know it. it would sell in those huge quantities even if it wasn’t up to much off road because, well, just look at it. it’s a bona fide concept car made real, and that is actually a very rare thing. it started life as purely that: a concept in the form of the Land Rover LRX – a futuristic design study that showed what Land Rover’s design team thought a Landie might look like in the future. The LRX made its public debut at the Detroit motor show in January 2008 and a month before that, when pictures started leaking out in the world’s (understandably excited) motoring press, Land Rover’s design boss, Gerry McGovern, went on record as saying, “it’s a Land Rover that would be comfortable on Bond Street or Fifth Avenue, but wouldn’t flinch at getting its wheels dirty.”

He wasn’t kidding. The public and aforementioned motoring press went nuts for it and the small handful of journalists that got to drive it (along Fifth Avenue, natch), fed back glowing reports. Jaguar Land Rover was against the ropes at the time, as the worldwide recession’s bite took a firm hold and decimated the sales of luxury car brands, so a potential surefire winner could not easily be ignored. LRX production was given a green light and, three and a half years later, i’m one of the first motoring hacks in the world to try it out for real.

There’s a lot riding on this car. Since its conceptual debut, it’s moved up a brand from Land Rover to Range Rover. A cynical marketing ploy, perhaps, but you can see the logic behind the move. Think Land Rover and automatically you think utilitarian, tough and often unreliable. Range Rover has always been a cut above the rest – luxurious, effortless and yes, unreliable. Of course, the reliability thing has, in recent times, been thoroughly dealt with, and both Jaguar and Land Rover vehicles are now appearing regularly in the upper echelons of customer satisfaction surveys. Who saw that one coming? it’s good news, though, for anyone dropping an obscene amount of money on a vehicle with a green oval badge on its bonnet. So the Evoque’s timing could not have been better.

Now that i’m behind the wheel of one of the very first Evoques, i’m feeling a bit weird. Having trotted the globe for the past few years, testing cars in the most glamorous, far-flung countries, i’m piloting what is possibly the most important new vehicle of the decade along a muddy farm track barely four kilometres from the house i used to live in, in north Wales in the UK. As homecomings go, it’s not particularly exciting – where’s the fanfare? But if my own presence in this beautiful part of the world is nothing to get worked up about, i can’t say the same for the car i’m driving. Wherever it goes, it turns heads like a supermodel. Wearing Louboutins. i’ve driven head-turners before, of course, but this isn’t a low-slung piece of italian exotica; it’s a (semi) sensible, capable SUV pieced together in Liverpool, of all places.

This was never going to be an ordinary car. Even before it turned a wheel, it was destined to be talked about, scrutinised and deified, and not just by ardent fans of the Land Rover marque. Just when you thought there were no surprises left out there, along comes a car that doesn’t just move on the game, but actually changes everything. The shift is positively seismic.

i’m not exactly punishing the car, granted, but then there’s five weeks’ worth of journalists yet to experience this, so it’s perhaps understandable that rock crawling isn’t on the agenda. These cars need to be tip-top for everyone, so serious off-roading will be left for another time. Land Rover’s hierarchy knows that the Evoque needs to be able to deal with tough, seemingly impossible conditions with the same aplomb as any other vehicle bearing its famous badge. So i am assuming, with faith in my knowledge of this amazing company, that the Evoque will be as adept at traversing Kenyan plains, Arabian deserts and Antarctic tundra as it is plodding along this uninspiring Anglesey field.

There’s a good reason we’re here, actually. This is Land Rover’s spiritual home. The Wilks brothers, who conceived the idea of a go-anywhere vehicle based on the Willys Jeep, had holiday homes here and first sketched the iconic outline of the car on the sands of Red Wharf Bay, just a few kilometres from this field.

This, then, is the Evoque’s homecoming, not mine. But despite my enthusiastic gushing, so far it hasn’t really had a chance to prove itself. So, once the last of the ruts and puddles have been dispatched, i stop the Evoque so i can disembark and take a proper, long and hard stare at it.

Being honest, i have, since the day i saw it as the concept, viewed this car as nothing more than a fashion accessory; a handbag, a trinket, a bejewelled wristwatch that looks startling but really, at the end of the day, is good for only one thing. i wrote it off as a “look at me” irrelevance. yet even now, before i give the Evoque a decent chance to shine, i know i’ve been unfairly critical. i viewed this new baby Range Rover as a huge case of style over substance.

it’s like nothing else out there – barely changed from that original idea, which was a huge challenge for Land Rover’s engineering teams. For once, function had to follow form and it’s a remarkable result. The roof slopes off to the rear at a fairly dramatic angle, the waistline is unusually high and the rear window is tiny. it could even be described as useless. Passengers in the back might feel a bit claustrophobic, but there’s an answer for that: a full-length glass roof, which allows sunlight to flood the cabin. in another bid to counter the restricted rear vision, the two door mirrors are absolutely enormous. Peripheral vision may also be restricted due to the thick A-pillars, so it’s not perfect... but enough of these deliberations! it’s time to see how it behaves on the public highways of this great nation. >>>


in an hour’s time, on a stretch of mountain road i have driven hundreds of times over the years, the Evoque delivers a hammer blow to my preconceptions and smashes them into oblivion. This funky motor, once clear of the mildly moist terrain and onto a decent country road, really shows its mettle and, in an instant, demolishes not only my worries that it’s a bit of a ponce, but also the competition from Germany and Japan. The Evoque drives like a sports car. For an SUV, that’s a good thing... a very good thing.

The turbocharged two litre engine powers the Evoque with a fantastic, effortless punch and is quietly refined on the move, but the most surprising thing about this car is the way you can hurl it down a twisting country road. With the company’s new magnetic “MagneRide” suspension fitted, the Evoque is gifted with a split personality. i’ve driven plenty of cars that aren’t sure what they’re supposed to be, but this one turns out to provide the best of both worlds.

it’s simply revelatory in the way it grips the surface and corners with supreme confidence and flatness. There was a time when the UK police force had to stop using Range Rovers for high-speed pursuits because, when they negotiated tight corners and roundabouts, they had a tendency to flip over thanks to their long suspension travel and high centre of gravity. There’s no danger of this Range Rover following suit – in fact it practically begs to be driven hard. Already i love this car.


Being honest, I have, since the day I saw it

as the concept, written it off as a “look at me”

irrelevance. Yet even now, before I give the

Evoque a decent chance to shine, I know I’ve

been unfairly critical.

87. sur la terre . out of the box .

i’m not alone in my findings. Normally us hacks are a cynical bunch; very difficult to please. Now, however, we find ourselves grouping together, raving about the Evoque’s sheer breadth of capabilities. We’re in agreement – this is a brilliant car. it’s a hoot both on and off road, which means it will appeal on a much deeper, less superficial level, too.

Having crossed north Wales’ finest mountain roads, we end up in Liverpool for an overnight stop and the following morning we swap for a five-door. it looks virtually identical to its Coupe sibling and adds a degree of extra practicality for family use without losing any of its styling prowess. Hey, what do you know? There’s an urban playground for us to tackle, just in case we thought the Evoque wasn’t up to a real challenge.

First up was a disused railway tunnel that is so long you can’t see the light at the other end. Two-thirds of the way through, we reach an enormous body of stagnant water and we’re warned to be careful because it’s deep. They weren’t joking and the Evoque wades through, with the stinking water almost reaching the windows and emerges with steam billowing from its hot engine. Easy.

Then, when we’re least expecting it, there’s a detour through Liverpool’s famed Albert Docks; literally, through them. We head down a steep ramp using the hill descent function to ease proceedings before driving along a submerged temporary roadway, wading through more water, less deep than the tunnel’s and thankfully less smelly. Crowds have gathered to see the spectacle; the Evoque is a star.

And it really is a star. Against established competition like BMW’s feeble X1 and Nissan’s Qashqai, not to mention Audi’s upcoming Q3, it stands out like a beacon of good taste both inside and out. Land Rover, in my opinion, didn’t need Victoria Beckham as an ambassador or design advisor, but she’s been recruited nonetheless and, seeing the global reach she inexplicably has, maybe that’s not a disaster. it has a premium feel, it goes like stink and it has proved its worth on the race track as well as the desert dunes of Dubai when it was in the development stage. it’s a consummate all-rounder and i want one. if you see one, you’ll want one too, mark my words. Form an orderly queue but just remember: i’m in front of you.


FA s H I O n

. sur la terre . fashion .90

Discovering new trends and a new fashion in a unique and unusual

greek nocturnal panorama.

styling Gloria storchi, Roberto ciapani e Federico torettiphotographer Fabrizio Nannini - Make up artist paolo sfarra

gaRden

. sur la terre . fashion . 91

92 . sur la terre . fashion .

93

Page 91: Green trouser Mila Schon; blouse with a bow and shoes Ermanno Scervino; jacket Yves Saint Laurent.This page: Trouser Alberta Ferretti; blouse Weekend Max Mara ; suit Gianfranco Ferrè; belt Salvatore Ferragamo; shoes Versace.

Opposite page: Trouser Ermanno Scervino; blouse Bagutta; jacket Alberta Ferretti ; belt Elisabetta Franchi; shoes Moschino

. sur la terre . fashion .

94

Green polo-neck sweater Mila Schon; blouse Ralph Lauren Black Label, trouser Alberta Ferretti; coat Scapa Roma; high belt with studs Brioni.Opposite page: Leather trouser Salvatore Ferragamo; pullover Eric Bompard; jacket Moschino; belt Enrico Coveri; shoes Prada

. sur la terre . fashion .

95. sur la terre . fashion .

“W iSDOM BEGiNS iN WONDER .” - So c ra t e s -

H O r I zO n s

. sur la terre . horizons .100

kEEpiNg it MoNtrEal

Last summer, Qatar Airways launched its brand new route to Montreal. offering

three flights a week on its massive 259-seat 777 aircraft, this will mark the first foray into the Great White North for skytrak’s

2011 Airline of the Year. However, most reports describe this route as either a

commercial oil venture or a portal to points further afield. But what about tourism to

canada’s second largest city? Is it worth the 13+ hour flight just to visit Montreal? If so,

what on earth is there to do there? Sur la Terre sent senior Editor steve paugh

on the inaugural flight to find out.

. sur la terre . horizons . 101

Montreal ’s Old Port (copyright Marie-reine Mattera). .

It’s 5:00 p.m. on the last day of July, and i am at sail in a sea of sweat, smoke and echoes. The softening, garbled whine that floats around the pit of people surrounding me is matched in viscosity only by the plumes of purply haze that rise from its attending throng. The darkening skies threaten to wetly quell

this humid, fleshy swell, but nobody notices, and even if they did, they wouldn’t care.

Montreal-based indie rock band Malajube has home field advantage here, and the boys are making good. Having just killed it at the Scene de La Montagne stage, their freshly-blasted Francophone frenzy finally settles into feedback, leaving me with a very strange experience. i never knew my ears could ring in French, but ... voila!

Just as the last vociferous vestige of Malajube’s set peters out into the waning roar of an appreciative audience, the sea’s tune changes and the crowd, like a tide, shifts its attention to the adjoining Scene de la Riviere stage. The American nouveau-folk band Beirut is just tuning up its horns, accordions and ukuleles, and out of nowhere, the waves of onlookers rush to crash onto a completely different sound.

Montreal’s Osheaga Music and Arts Festival has set stages and brought crowds like these together since its inception in 2006, and nothing - not the record-setting heat of this summer nor the impending thunderstorms - could sully the enjoyment of the fun-loving faithful as they pack against each others’ contradictions in the solidarity of song.


the historic Place d’Armes square (copyright www.old .montreal .qc .ca , le photographe masqué). .

Montreal in Bloom (copyright stéphan Poulin). . jean talon Market in litt le Italy (stéphan Poulin). .

This is not just a smorgasbord of sound, but of style and of substance, its seamless synergy transforming a mismatched culture clash into a mixed culture cache. in this way, Osheaga perfectly exemplifies everything that makes its birthplace so unique, so different, so... “Montreal.”

it may seem strange to define a city by the way its musical traditions melt together, but if indeed we could defy convention and express a city’s status in a series of sounds, the playlist for Montreal would definitely be set to shuffle.

A City of Historicity. With so many motley beats, it’s difficult to define one steady pulse amongst Montreal’s palpitations... but it is fun to try. Luckily, all of this oscillation doesn’t suffer the city an identity crisis; on the contrary, it forms what i would call an “identity chrysalis,” ever evolving just beneath its surface, moving between the preconceived notions of a city’s absolutes.

Even in its various nicknames, the city proudly parades its polarities. Not only has it for some time gone by the moniker “City of Saints” for its almost innumerable amount of divinely-inspired street names, but it was also once called “Sin City,” thanks to its status as a safe-haven for spirits of a different kind during America’s prohibition period. All of this may have something to do with the dichotomy of the city’s geographic genealogy. After all, not for nothing is it often referred to as “the most European city in North America.”

Originally inhabited by the native iroquois people, who called the region Hochelaga (which roughly translates to “meeting place” and, incidentally, is where the Osheaga festival’s name is derived), Montreal officially came into contact with Europe in 1535 via French navigator Jacques Cartier. Thereafter, the English came and, as is their wont, decided to take Canada for king and country. Since then, Montreal has traded ownership and dominance between the Anglo- and Francophones until finally finding its modern-day medium between the linguistic and cultural traditions of its European forebears: a heady heterogeneity set harmoniously against a distinctly North American backdrop.

Amidst its cobblestone streets and twisting alleys, where ply the trades of artisans and restauranteurs alike, is the Place d’Armes central square. Here is perhaps the best place to experience the harmonious discord of the city, as the neoclassical pantheon poise of the Bank of Montreal Head Office rubs shoulders with the Alfred Building, Montreal’s finest example of art deco architecture.

Adjacent to the Alfred is its broken mirror match: the imposing Notre Dame Basilica. The Gothic Revival silhouette of the basilica’s facade belies its insides, which, in its articulated gilded intricacy, is quite possibly the most beautiful church interior i have ever seen. With such renowned beauty, it’s no surprise that, amongst others, Montreal native Celine Dion chose to get married there.


copyright MOntrÉAl HIGH lIGHts Festival . .

la rue saint-Denis (copyright christ iane Hamelin). .

Perhaps the best visual representation of this shared lineage can be found in the historic

section of the city known as Old Montreal, where its amalgamated nature looms

in its architecture.

Montreal is more than just the sum of its past, however, as its fusion has lead to some spectacular modern city-building. Chief amongst these advancements is what is known to the locals as the RESO. Hidden beneath the city’s streets, steel and glass, it is, for all intents and purposes, Montreal’s flip side; its underground city.

Surviving the Winter in Style. To appreciate the necessity of a completely insular, sub-surface second city, one must first understand the climate of Montreal, the lifestyle of Montrealers and the staggering resolve of the latter to overcome the former.

When i first visited Montreal, it was near the end of December, and at -20 degrees Celsius, the season was just beginning to bare her long, icy fangs. With a climate almost identical to that found in Moscow, Montreal demands that its inhabitants be made of sterner stuff, and so they are. Even in the most bitter months, the spirit of the city effectively thaws Winter’s gnaw. Festivals like High Lights, which combines city-wide events of fine dining and artistic performances throughout February and March, are time-tested to warm you to the core.

Speaking of culinary masterpieces, another way to help survive the winter is to warm yourself from the inside. For this, i recommend the beloved local snack, poutine. Slathering thick-cut french fries in cheese curds and gooey gravy might sound like a heart attack in a basket - and don’t get me wrong, it is - but it’s absolutely the most delicious way of recovering from a night of bar hopping throughout the mounting snow drifts. Plus, it’s one of the only things that Canadians don’t drown with maple syrup... although i’m sure they have tried.


cycling in front of the oddball apartment s of Habitat 67 (copyright David McDougall). .

if you want to experience a different kind of flavour outside of Montreal, it’s easy to find some of the most unique winter experiences you’ll ever have, like staying at the Hotel de Glace, the famously chilly lodge made completely out of ice.

Alternatively, you could take in a spot of ice fishing on one of the region’s many frozen lakes, or do as i did, and take the reins of a dog sled. There is truly nothing quite like the experience of a sturdy team of husky pups blasting you through a frozen forest in nearby Mont Tremblant.

Regardless of winter’s bite, there are plenty of things to do in and around Montreal, even if it’s just hunkering down in one of the city’s near-infinite taverns and pubs, enjoying while you do the savoury flavour of local brews and tunes.

Of course, sometimes even the most steely staying power can succumb to the elements, and locals have gone to many lengths to continue the way they traverse through their city and lives. The essence of this existence is best exemplified by three letters that you might not expect: BMW.

A creation of Ruby Roy, our tour guide from Tourisme Montréal, “BMW” is an acronym that describes the best ways to see Quebec’s largest city in all of its eccentricities. Obviously in the Gulf, or anywhere else for that matter, these letters may evoke a slightly different image, but in Montreal, it stands for “Bicycle Metro Walking,” the three preferred means of conveyance throughout the city. While the several metres of snow that fall each winter effectively shut down any bike usage, including the amazingly convenient and citywide expansive system of rent-a-bikes called BiXis (bicycle/taxi), there is still the metro to take and paths to be walked, and both can be done within the comfort of a controlled environment. This brings us back to RESO.


Built throughout the latter part of the twentieth century, Montreal’s underground city now boasts 30 kilometres of space to do... well... everything! it has apartments, cafes, museums, travel agents, banks, hotels, shopping malls, metro stations and even dentist and doctor offices! it’s a semi-subterranean wonderland under there, and it’s as lively as the city above it; in winter, even more so! Perhaps places like Doha and Dubai could take a page out of Montreal’s book for their oppositely abysmal summers.

Speaking of which, although Montreal puts the brrrr in brilliant with its below-floor fortifications and top-tier festivals during winter, it is in summer when this city truly excels. While it may currently be listed as Lonely Planet’s third best summer city, i would respectfully argue that it should be its first.

Summer in the City. Montreal is a lot like one of those special hairsprays you have to use with a blow dryer - it’s heat-activated; and when those high temps are finally applied, the city literally blooms with volume. After all, it was not just dumb luck that led Qatar Airways to launch its inaugural flight to Montreal in June.

The pubs, cafes and restaurants, once tightly packed with flocks of the frostbitten, now pour forth from nearly every entry point with scantily-clad merrymakers, all spilling onto terraces for a drink in the sun or under the stars. This is the perfect season to employ the Montrealer “BMW” joie de vivre, as the city opens itself up to the simple things in life.

Take in a slow saunter through the scenic Le Plateau area, drinking in as you do the distinctly bohemian, laid-back lifestyle by ambling in and out of cafes, record shops, ice cream parlours, bar terraces and art houses. Make a mental note of the quintessentially Montreal look of the apartments, with their alternatively steep or winding metal staircases, usually leading up to a patio party where friends or families leisurely enjoy a late breakfast or early evening apéro (or aperitif).

Catch the Metro to Montreal’s quaint, Bronx-like Little italy, making a special stop at the Jean-Talon farmer’s market for the largest collection of the freshest produce you’ll ever see. After you’ve tasted the free samples of gland-stabbingly delicious fruit and veg, stock up on some lunch, rent a BiXi bike (only CAN$5.00 for 24 hours) and take a relaxed pedal, stopping to enjoy a picnic at another of Montreal’s main attractions: nature.

Accompanying Montreal’s mass of mellow revelry is a ceaseless stream of green, a welcome sight especially to those coming from the Gulf. Whether it’s in the lush brush of the parks scattered throughout the city, or on the well-kept grounds of Montreal’s multiculturally magnificent Botanical Gardens, there is no shortage of folk from every way and walk of life lying about, each intent on incontrovertibly proving that the best things in life are green.

As pale, tattooed skin begins to bake and brown under the Montreal summer sun, and each person happily lazes to the beat of his or her own drum, so too is brought to boil the heady broth of Montreal.

Montreal is a city molded by its own melange; shaped not just from its life, but by the true art of living. its beauty explodes in an indescribable effervescence, before settling in the addictive calm of its laissez faire feng shui.

you just have the feeling that life lives forever in Montreal; slow, steady and perfect. it’s the kind of place you don’t want to leave, so the next time i go there... i think i’ll just have to stay.


WhErE to Eat: Schwartz’s Deliif you find yourself on the bustling Saint Laurent Boulevard in Le Plateau, make sure you stop into Schwartz’s Deli. This city institution has cooked up quite a famous following with its mouthwatering smoked meats. you don’t have to take my word for it, Schwartz’s has been a main attraction of the city since it was established in 1928, and has even been immortalised with a film and a theatre production! The queue regularly stretches for a whole city block, so it’s good to get there early (around 11:00 am). Having been lucky enough to sample its delicatessen delights, we can personally vouch for its one-in-a-million flavour!www.schwartzsdeli.com

Fairmount BagelsLike New york City, Montreal has become famous for its bagels, and after sinking your teeth into these dense, gooey, slightly sweet delicacies, it’s easy to see why. Probably the most well-known and oldest bagel joint in town is Fairmount Bagels, located on Fairmount West. it’s been around since about 1949, when isadore Shlafman set up shop there after immigrating to Montreal in 1919. Since then, they have perfected their hand-rolled “holy” craft, offering over 20 different varieties of bagel. Since they make them fresh 24 hours a day in the on-site wood-fire oven, they are always piping hot and delicious, no matter what time (or how many times) you roll into the shop. www.fairmountbagel.com

WhErE to SlEEp: Hotel le St-JamesStanding in the stoney streets of Old Montreal, within the frame of a restored Merchants’ Bank building originally dating back to 1870, St-James is the centrepiece landmark of both old elegance and new luxury in Montreal.

An historic meeting place when it was first built, hosting such British luminaries as the Prince of Wales and King Edward Vii, the St-James still stands as a brightly-lit paragon of absolute grandeur, even in a city replete with it.

Everything from the junior suites to the rooftop apartment seems to sing with an old world luxury and a new world attention to detail, exemplifying how the duality of Montreal stretches right up the way to its high life.www.hotellestjames.com

The Pierre du Calvet House (1725)Built way back in 1725 when Montreal was a French colony, The Pierre du Calvet House is the oldest historical house open for public accommodation in Montreal, and it is also one of its most beautiful. Ornate and wonderfully ostentatious, this is old world luxury at its absolute finest. The rich, brick interiors of the house, with its impeccable decorations, may not smack of slick modernity, but it’s a gorgeous throwback to the time it was built, allowing you a glimpse into the rich life of the successful merchant for whom it was named, as well as the comfort of all modern amenities. Because it feels quite heavy, and is definitely built to survive Montreal winters, we suggest hitting up this spot in the colder months, but regardless of when you choose to go, remember the Pierre du Calvet credo, “DOMUS MEA UT DOMUS TUA,” or in English, “My HOUSE iS yOUR HOUSE.”www.pierreducalvet.ca

Cirque du SoleilSurprisingly, not a lot of people know that the event/experience that is Cirque du Soleil originally hails from Montreal. Ever since it danced out of and into the imagination of the Canadian general populace in 1984, the touring “circ-esque” showcase has been delighting the local and international community with each of its performances. The show we took in this time was called Totem, a surrealist, evolutionary tale, which, through seemingly impossible feats of strength, acrobatics,

humour and dance, tells a nonlinear story of the evolution of both man and the world he inhabits. We cannot recommend seeing Cirque du Soleil more, especially in its hometown, where the phenomenon was officially born. it may cost a pretty penny for tickets, but for a once-in-a-lifetime experience of recapturing that childlike sense of wonder, there’s nothing quite like it. www.cirquedusoleil.com

WhErE to play:

all-aMEriCaN hEro

. sur la terre . origins .108

O r I G I n s

As Michael Kors celebrates 30 years of success in Fashion this year, Megan Masterson takes a retrospective look at the man who has come to define the pinnacle of modern American luxury.

. sur la terre . origins . 109

Michael Kors is not Karl Lagerfeld, and that’s a good thing. Approachable, witty and smiling, he is the anathema to the reclusive fashion designer, as likely to be adored in suburban Chicago as he is by the socialites of the Upper East Side.

it’s one thing to pick the fabrics of the elite – leather, cashmere, fur and silk – but entirely another to create the clothes women really, really want to wear out of them. From butterscotch leather skirts, and the softest wool coats, to perfectly sequined sheaths and tortoiseshell watches, Michael Kors has proven, over and over again, that he knows what women want.

“Beige plus blonde equals gold,” states the designer as he selects jewellery for a flaxen-haired woman he’s styling on The Oprah Winfrey Show. “That’s fashion math.” Thanks to his turn on the American reality show, Project Runway, such ‘Kor-isms’ now fill the internet, with fans lovingly creating mash-ups of his witticisms for youTube.

Kors’ exploding public persona has benefitted his business, with his three lines – Michael Kors collection, Kors Michael Kors, and Michael Michael Kors – collectively breaking the $1 billion barrier last year. Almost poetically, it’s also his 30th year in the industry. And fittingly, his Fall 2011 show was a greatest hits collection of sorts, replete with high-waisted, wide-legged trousers, deep V necklines, long, slate grey coats, skinny tonal belts and crystal-studded camel jumpsuits.

For the man who won the 2010 CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award, Kors’ thirty-year career started when he turned out his first collection aged 19, for then-trendy New york boutique, Lothar’s. But, remembers Michael in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar, his passion for design was evident even at five years old, when he was tasked with designing his mother’s wedding dress for her marriage to his stepfather. “The bows are terrible,” he recalls telling her. “Take off the bows.” And so the first Kors sophisticate was born.

“Beige plus blonde equals gold, that’s fashion math.”

110 . sur la terre . origins .

Although he studied fashion design at The Fashion institute of Technology, he dropped out early to work full-time at Lothar’s, eventually meeting up with then-fashion editor, Vera Wang, who became a longtime friend and his most ardent supporter at the launch of his own line in 1981.

The Michael Kors womenswear line was picked up by the likes of Bloomingdales, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, and his pared down aesthetic quickly won him the 1999 CFDA Award for Womenswear Designer of the year.

the first ever women’s ready-to-wear designer and creative director for French fashion house, Celine (he left the position in 2003), and won the 2003 CFDA Award for Menswear Designer of the year, a mere year after the launch of his menswear line. Meanwhile, Kors picked up a devoted following of young New york socialites like Samantha and Serena Boardman, Lulu de Kwiatkowski and Brooke de Ocampo, all photographed on the street and at parties in his quintessentially American designs.

There are certainly few designers as consistent as Kors, who has always managed to strike the elusive balance between the innately wearable and the undoubtedly chic, be it in clothing, accessories or fragrances. Glamorous eveningwear and haute preppy separates are his stock in trade, be it the classic sheath, turtleneck, trench or caftan.

No matter the destination – or decade – he continues to create the universally f lattering pieces that are as at home at a chi-chi Parisian restaurant, on a private jet to Palm Springs, or in front of the cameras on the red carpet at the Oscars.

His luxurious hand has also been felt at the movies – he dressed Gwyneth Paltrow in Possession and Cate Blanchett in Bandits for starters, and, most famously, Rene Russo in the 1999 remake of The Thomas Crown Affair, one of the most famous “fashion” movies of all time.

Russo wore a wardrobe entirely designed by Michael for Celine. What better designer, after all, to design the costumes of a woman trying to attract and ensnare one of the world’s most charming and elusive billionaires?

The movie may have been a sartorial success back in 1999, but twelve years later, women continue to hark back to that on-screen wardrobe as they do with Audrey Hepburn’s outfits in Breakfast At Tiffanys.

The four-ply cashmere turtleneck, wool coat with fur collar, super-sharp pencil skirt, soft-as-butter leather boots, all-camel ensemble, and the perfect little black maillot, are as desired today as they were then.

in 2011, women flock to Michael Kors for these exact building blocks, and his fans are as diverse as New york’s privileged beauty, Aerin Lauder, Californian beach babe and Gossip Girl, Blake Lively, and 70s icon, Lauren Hutton.

“Stay focused and be patient” is his mantra, and he has, indeed, never deviated in design from a no-frills approach to chic that is deceptively difficult to achieve, but that has helped earn him the label of modern classic. in the Kors world, simplicity is key, elegance is everything and luxe is utterly non-negotiable.

. sur la terre . origins . 111

1. He was born Karl Anderson Jnr, but changed his name to Michael David Kors at the age of five, when his mother remarried.

2. He wears his grandfather’s wedding ring as a lucky charm.

3. Michael’s guilty pleasure? Naturally, it’s the all-American cheeseburger, especially from the Los Angeles burger joint, The Apple Pan.

4. He was the youngest ever recipient of the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the CFDA in 2010.

5. Kors’ favourite movie quote is the Bette Davis line from the black-and-white classic, All About Eve: “Fasten your seatbelts. it’s going to be a bumpy night.”

6. The designer that he is most inspired by is 1970s stalwart, Halston.

7. Kors’ favourite vacation spot is Parrot Cay in the Turks and Caicos.

8. “Spaghetti with lobster sauce” is his go-to meal at La Fontelina on the island of Capri. “you eat lunch barefoot, the food is fresh. There’s nothing like it.”

9. Style icons? Steve McQueen and Jackie Kennedy.

10. Kors designed Michelle Obama’s dress for her first official photographic portrait as First Lady in 2009.

Reality television has been good to Michael, and he has become an international household name as a judge on project Runway. Here are some of the ‘Kor-isms’ that have helped make him must-see tv.

“This green blouse—unless you are going to a Joan Crawford St. Paddy’s Day Party… i mean, who is wearing this blouse?!”

“it’s ugly drapes—everything bad in the house – on your body.”

“you wanted circus matador, you got it. Olé! Olé!”

“it’s getting hot. i’m going through manopause.”

“you’ve got to have candy corn teeth to wear that.”

“Next thing you know, it’s big button earrings and you’re on The Facts of Life.”

“She looks like Barefoot Appalachian Lil’ Abner Barbie.”

“She looks like an Amish cocktail waitress.”

“i think everyone up here had a bridesmaid pageant problem.”

“i think it’s an unbelievably tight race for hideous today.”

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special thanks to Westin Hotel costa Navarino – Greece for the Hospitality

styling Gloria storchi, Roberto ciapani e Federico torettiphotographer Fabrizio Nannini - Make up artist paolo sfarra

114

Leather dress Ralph Lauren Black Label; bag Ermanno scervino; bracelet with charms Brioni; glasses dsquared 2; shoes Renè caovilla

. sur la terre . accessories . 115

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. sur la terre . accessories .116

dress Ermanno scervino; Blunt shoes versace; leather bag villador; scarf Hermès; black tights Wolford

. sur la terre . accessories . 117

Captiva returns for 2011 with a bold new look that includes:· An aggressively redesigned front fascia and grille· Fully refreshed dashboard design with Bluetooth connectivity· Seating for five or seven· Choice of four or six cylinder engines

TAKES YOU TO A BETTER PLACE2011

POWERANDPOWERANDPOWER STYLEIN PERFECTBALANCEIN PERFECTBALANCEIN PERFECT

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Captiva 24cm x 33.5cm SLT.indd 1 9/20/11 9:57 AM

on the eve of the World Arab horse organisation’s Annual conference in doha, sur la terre asked internationally acclaimed Judge and Breeding consultant, scott Benjamin, to Explain the unique characteristics that make the Arabian Horse so special.

the AuthenticArabian

. sur la terre . out of the box . 119

Out OF tHe BOX

“N ever have I seen or imagined so lovely a collection. Remarkably full in the haunches, with a shoulder of a slope so elegant as to make one, in the words of the

Arab poet ‘go stark raving mad about it;’ a most intelligent and yet a singularly gentle look, full eye, sharp thorn-like ear, legs fore and hind that seemed as if made of hammered iron; so clean and yet so well twisted with sinew; an air and step that seemed to say, ‘Look at me, am I not pretty?’ Their appearance justified all reputation, all value, all poetry. Every part has a perfection and harmony unwitnessed (at least by my eyes) anywhere else.”

Thus were the words of William Gifford Palgrave, distinguished Arabic scholar, Roman Catholic priest and much–travelled British diplomat, as recorded in 1863, in assessing the Arabian horses of the ibn-Saoud Stud of the Nejd. Aptly detailed through the eyes of an historian, this vivid account of the Arabian horse sheds great insight into the distinctive characteristics that ordain the Arabian as unique within the equine world as well as into the definition of Arabian type. This type has, of course, been expounded upon by countless experts throughout the ages, yet this brief narrative perhaps comes closer to summarising the true essence of the Arabian than any other.

When considering authentic Arabian type, it is essential to put the breed in the context of its origin – the Nejd of the Arabian Peninsula. implying upland by its very name, the Nejd comprises the vast central region of modern day Saudi Arabia. The Nejd is a harsh environment in which the basics of life, food and water, are scarce, and the existence of both man and beast is challenged in the extreme.

Within this unforgiving terrain, the nomadic tribes of the Arabic Bedouin have survived for millennia. Essential to their survival has been their relationship with the Arabian horse; a creature most prized above all earthly possessions. The oral tradition of the Bedouin claims the Arabian horse was first captured thousands of years before the birth of Christ from among the wild horses of the Nejd and tamed for utility under saddle. This was the beginning of perhaps the most important and most intimate coexistence between man and any other member of the animal kingdom, one that would drive both progress and civilisation, and forever change the fortunes of both species.

Amongst the Bedouin, the life of the Arabian horse was starkly unromantic – harsh, little food of poor quality, scarcity of water, hot dry conditions, times of restrictive confinement followed by swift and tortuous raids. The life of the Bedouin was that of the daily struggle for survival, hence life was approached in the most unforgiving of contexts. Raids were considered an essential element of Nomadic culture, especially those taken against travellers.

Life was one of incessant warfare, entailing forced marches and the roughest treatment. Pity was not taken for the injured or dying – death was accepted as both inescapable and inevitable. Both environment and culture seemed the most unlikely combination in which the successful rearing of any creature could long be sustained, yet through centuries of natural selection dictated by the necessity of man’s survival, the Arabian horse has not only efficiently evolved, but astonishingly thrived.

The extraordinary environmental conditions of the Arabian Peninsula demanded the evolution of a superior equine athlete of exceptional intelligence and uncommon courage. Strength, fortitude and tenacity of constitution were paramount if any horse were to survive life as a warhorse on the rugged terrain. Swiftness and endurance were vital to the success of raids, and only those Arabians with the best combination of these nearly polar attributes were fortunate enough to escape the dangers of battle and earn the respect of their masters.

Vitality of spirit and courage were also essential to success in battle; this was to be tempered by intelligence and kindness as both a willing mount and as a large domesticated mammal forced to live in close coexistence with the spartan, mobile life of his keeper.

The modern Arabian, though no longer a warhorse subject to the cruel and unforgiving environment of the Arabian Desert, remains a breed of horse richly abounding in the qualities that made his ancestor a survivor. Perhaps best described as a cross between an Olympic gymnast and a champion long distance runner, the Arabian horse is unrivalled as an athlete in the equine world.

As the original racehorse, the Arabian was crucial to the foundation of the Thoroughbred, contributing the ability to run at great speeds over vast distances with courage, tenacity and superior physical fortitude. Arabians put the “hot” into “hot-blood.” The superior density, structure and quality of bone along with balance and harmony of proportion are unrivalled in the equine world and have been highly sought after in all equine breeds in which athleticism is of primary importance. Superior beauty, quality and refinement have always been distinct Arabian traits – all warm-blooded horses inherit these aesthetically pleasing and spiritually inspiring attributes from the horse of the Nejd.

. sur la terre . out of the box .120

it is of paramount importance to consider the unique qualities of the desert horse as defined by Lady Wentworth – utility, soundness, temper and vitality – those qualities that separate the Arabian from the other breeds as superior in all respects. More quantitatively, yet not wholly so, these fundamental assessment criteria can be put into the context of four major areas: Balance, Quality, Movement and Disposition.

The Arab is not a horse of extremes, but rather a distinctively athletic horse of perfect three-dimensional utility. Although balance is essential to all horse breeds, the zenith is achieved within the structure of the Arabian. Simply put, the Arabian horse is “the quintessence of all the good qualities of an equine in compact form.” if extreme is to be accepted in any aspect of Arabian type it is in the area of Quality.

This quality is manifest in the proud, alert command of the Arabian stallion, the confident maternal bearing of the Arabian mare, the zest for life of the young foal. it is exactly the quality of the Arabian about which the author wrote, when he penned the words, “There is something about the outside of the horse that is good for the inside of man.”

Arabian horses are, without question, intelligent, kind, willing, courageous, curious and social. Blessed with an enthusiastically energetic but supremely tractable character, the Arabian horse is unrivalled as a companion within the equine world. His forced, extremely intimate coexistence with the nomadic Bedouin demanded a highly compliant and agreeable disposition.

yet despite domestication, the Arabian horse remained a vitally indomitable force within his desert environs, an attribute which proved critical to his resiliency and survival. it is perhaps this intangible quality that has most endeared the Arabian horse to mankind.

. sur la terre . out of the box . 121

This feature is an excerpt from Scott Benjamin’s original article, Authentic Arabian Type: An Introduction. The article was first published in its entirety in the US-based Oasis Magazine, which is commited to fostering new relationships in the Arabian community and beyond by highlighting the varied interests and lifestyle of Arabian horse breeders and owners the world over. www.oasismagazine.com

All images were kindly provided by Stonewall Farm Arabians, owned by David Cains and Scott Bailey, and are used courtesy of Stuart Vesty, April Visel, Darryl Larson, Kelly Campbell and Gigi Grasso.www.stonewallfarm.com

Rolf Benz, Hülsta and Miele, amongst other European household names, WAW is in the business of being associated with decoration greatness. Anyone who has experience with these names will of course be aware that their renown comes well-deserved, owing largely to the fact that each product not only looks gorgeous, but once used, literally opens a world of wonder.

The true luxury at WAW appears with the same subtlety that ruminates in the gorgeous facades of Miele kitchen appliances, behind Hülsta cabinets and chests of drawers and in Rolf Benz couches, looking as though they were poured into existence, basking in the soft leather of their own cool comfort. Not only does everything look modern, clean and appealing, it also moves and functions that way.

Just what Qatar needs... another place to get furniture. That’s the thought that crept into our heads when we first found out about Wood Architectural Works, the interior design store that just recently opened up at The Pearl. We have covered similar places in our day here at Sur la Terre, so you can understand our dubiousness, even if this one did tout a deeper appreciation of class and competence. After all, with the near endless options for decoration in our fair city, what’s one more drop in a bucket already filled to the brim? Little did we realise, however, that our experience there would leave us thirsty for more.

While we were impressed with the look of the shop when we first entered its showroom in Le Croisete 7, noting its clean, modern layout and remarking on how well every piece of furniture seemed to fit together, we were still not convinced that Wood Architectural Works would have enough soul to indeed induce the awed sighs of “WAW” its shortened title suggests. Then we spoke to Grace Ghanem, the Showroom Manager, and everything changed.

in somewhat of a rush, thanks to an impending Eid holiday to her native Lebanon, Grace busied herself with making sure that the shop was running smoothly, as well as gathering enough materials so that we would understand the ethos of WAW. “Now,” she said with a deep breath and a smile, “you MUST let me show you around.” There was an infectious passion in her voice when she said this, and not only did we find out why, but we also caught the fever ourselves.

Walking around the floor space of WAW and examining its wares is a bit like exploring a vast collection of treasure chests. Each may look irresistibly enticing from the outside, but it is in opening them that the true gold can be found. As the local distributor of internationally celebrated furnishing and appliance brands such as Germany’s Hacker,

oh, WaW!

122 . sur la terre . out of the box .

Out OF tHe BOX

Apart perhaps from some of the more ostentatious chandeliers, nothing at WAW is too loud or proud. Cabinets close with a hush, countertops whisper as they transform into tables, revealing as they do an ivory underbelly of function and clean cooking spaces. Refrigerator doors never slam. Beds never creak. Chairs never cause discomfort. in short, using the paraphrased words of Kurt Vonnegut, “Everything is beautiful and nothing hurts.”

Grace weaved us around these quiet corners of luxury, pointing out how everything in the shop seems to organically match, even though the objects come from different design houses. This, she says, makes customisation easier, which is key to her clients here in the Gulf, a place where taste is defined by the minutia of a wild imagination. There is a reason, after all,

that WAW has become so popular and intrinsic with interior designers of hotels around Doha, not to mention private residents with less prosaic penchants. Thanks to the talents of Grace (herself an interior designer), as well as her team of architects, who have mixed and matched the shop’s inherent styles to a staggering degree, the layout of displays at WAW offers the ideal catalyst to your own creative power. Putting it succinctly, even if you are not redecorating, you will be inspired.

Despite what you might think, and what we thought when we heard of it, WAW does have that something special; that spice lacking in many of the other showrooms around town. Form here, while formal, is not formulaic, and in the end, Wood Architectural Works will make you whisper, “WAW!”

123. sur la terre . out of the box .

. sur la terre . market place .124

LoUIs vUIttoN’s BLAcK dIAMoNd tIMEpIEcE FRoM Its 2011/12 coLLEctIoN,

AvAILABLE At LoUIs vUIttoN BoUtIQUEs REGIoN-WIdE.

s.t. dUpoNt’s LAtEst AddItIoN to Its déFI RANGE; tHE REd RoAdstER coLLEctIoN, AvAILABLE IN QAtAR tHRoUGH ALI BIN ALI.

M A r K e t P l Ac e

AGo-toGUIdEA oF tHE Hot pRodUcts YoU sHoULd BE BUYING, AvAILABLE IN tHE LocAL MARKEt NoW.

to tHE sLt MARKEtpLAcE.WELcoME

. sur la terre . market place . 125

tHE NEW LA pEAU sKINcARE RANGE, AvAILABLE IN QAtAR ExcLUsIvELY At 51 EAst.

NUxE HUILE pRodIGIEUsE MULtI-pURposE REvItALIsING oIL FoR sKIN ANd HAIR, AvAILABLE At ALL Good pHARMAcIEs REGIoN-WIdE.

ARABIAN soUvENIR pERFUME coLLEctIoN

NoW AvAILABLE ExcLUsIvELY At sEpHoRA

stoREs REGIoN-WIdE.

ARMANd NIcoLEt J09-sERIEs WAtcHEs, AvAILABLE IN QAtAR

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courtesy of the OLSEN TWiNS’

label, The Row.

The number of hours French embroidery

house, Lesage, spent hand embroidering

Chanel’s famous Tiara jacket.

The price fetched by Patek Philippe & Co’s

Henry Graves Supercomplication watch at a

Sotheby’s auction. The yellow-gold pocket

watch with two faces and 24 complications was

created in 1932, took four years to build, and is

considered the world’s most expensive timepiece.

The 2011 retail sales of the Jessica

Simpson Collection so far, with the jeans

and sportswear collections anticipated

to generate US$150 to US$200 million

over the next two years, making the

singer the world’s most successful

celebrity fashion designer.

The amount paid per year

by Ray Ban to Unique

Product Placement in a

1982 agreement to place

their sunglasses in movies

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Top Gun, Miami Vice and The

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The number of mulberry moth cocoons required for

the silk to create a 90cm x 90cm Hermes scarf.

The rumoured daily fee

to hire famed celebrity

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help you find your “look”.

. sur la terre . between the lines .126

Between tHe lInes

Subscription form 2011

P.O. Box 11596, Doha-Qatar. Tel: +974 44340360 Fax: +974 44340359 e-mail: [email protected] Website: www.surlaterre-me.com

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demand drafts payable to: Firefly Communications in US Dollars or Qatar Riyals only.

telex transfer to:Firefly Communications

A/C No. 4580-5820-88001Commercial Bank of Qatar

Grand Hamad Corporate BranchP.O. Box 3232, Doha, Qatar

SWiFT CODE: CBAQAQAQ

Qatar Riyals cheques acceptable in Qatar.

i wish to subscribe to the magazine at the special price of QR 350 per year (6 issues):

if you would like to become one of the exclusive advertisers in Sur La Terre, please contact:

Julia toonRegional sales director

Tel: +974 44 340 360 / +974 44 340 354Mob: +974 66 880 228Fax: +974 44 340 359

e-mail: [email protected]

publications directorMohamed Jaidah

[email protected]

EdItoRIALregional Managing editor

James [email protected]

senior editorSteve Paugh

[email protected]

fashion & styleSophie Jones-Cooper

[email protected]

copy editorMegan Masterson

[email protected]

contributorsKevin Hackett

ARt & dEsIGNcreative directorRoula Zinati Ayoub

art directionRena Chehayber

designersTeja Jaganjac

finaliserMichael Logaring

photographyHerbert Villadelrey

sALEs & MARKEtINGregional sales director

Julia [email protected]

AREA MANAGER BAHRAIN-QAtARChirine Halabi

[email protected]

pRINtING & dIstRIBUtIoNdistribution Manager

Azqa [email protected]

LoGIstIcsDan Louis Javier

pUBLIsHERFIREFLY coMMUNIcAtIoNs

PO Box 11596, Doha, Qatar.Tel: +974 4434 0360Fax: +974 4434 [email protected]

Cover image: Night Garden Photographer: Fabrizio Nannini

sUR LA tERRE INtERNAtIoNAL s.A.

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26 avenue de la Praille1227, Geneva, Switzerland.

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