Issue #72January 11th 2017
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Womanpower!pg. 5
Eye Pop at Pitti UomoThe eyewear-dedicated space is back in Florence
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The vision of the architectural firm Vudafieri Saverino Partners
Sustainability permeates retail
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| Issue #72 | January 11th 2017
How has the retail project changed in recent years?Standardization is not requested as often. The crisis of 2008 led to a fracture that questioned previous lifestyles and caused two types of crisis - one social and cultural and the other political and economical - which annulled the organization model created between the Eighties and the Twenty-hundreds for high-end brands that wanted similar outlets everywhere.If on the one hand “possessions” and “appearances” guided life choices for years, where ostentation prevailed over truth and excess eclipsed ethics, on the other hand dramatic changes, uncertainty about the future and the fear of an unstable society were clearly the reasons for a downturn in sales. This led to considerations about products and also about spaces and the ways of selling.We still sell an idea, a dream, but in recent years this has been done differently: now brands ask us for fewer outlets but each with a distinctive characteristic or specialty. The project centers on customer experience and hospitality at the outlet with special attention to establishing a more genuine and sustainable lifestyle oriented toward promoting attitudes that are attentive to the needs of the community and more knowledgeable consumption.
What are the latest trends in outlet interiors?It’s difficult to talk about general trends; our job is to let customers experience the brand through the design of the outlet, so all our projects are unique and brand specific and shouldn’t really be influenced by external trends.In fashion, in particular, our work is like that of a storyteller and the start of this narrative approach is essential, so we use our design and architectural equipment to tell a story. This is what fashion has taught us.If we look at the macro-themes, on the one side we see the trend is marble + minimalism + Sixties; on the other side, the latest version of the “home-feeling” trend is an historical reference to the interior design of the Fifties.
Eco-sustainability is very important also in outlet design: how is it incorporated in your projects?The “healthy” element that very much improves the sustainability of projects, compared to fifteen years ago, is that budgets have been considerably cut. This has led to a healthy slimming down from all points of view, with the consequent reduction in the consumption of hydrocarbons. Additionally, the element that visibly and immediately decreases energy consumption at outlets is, without a doubt, the advent of LED lighting.As to our work as architects and designers in particular, we place considerable importance on the expressive value of materials and how they can be used in a way that is consistent with the project and its symbolic, aesthetic and sensory values. We are always sourcing expressively new materials so it is inevitable that our attention is directed toward the environmental sustainability theme: industrial research focuses on the invention of new products and our design research focuses on experimenting with new expressive potential.
What role does lighting play in the interior retail space?It is fundamental and as important as design. In our projects, the lighting design concept is a project in itself; lighting that is right for one brand may not work for another. Projects are developed with a very high level of detail which of course takes into consideration product exposure. But equally important, for example, is the lighting on customers when they are trying on a garment, an accessory, a pair of eyeglasses.
Sustainability permeates retailWith two HQs – one in Milan and one in Shanghai – architectural firm Vudafieri Saverino Partners is one of the major international designers of spaces dedicated to selling goods. We analyzed the evolution in retail over the past decade with owners Tiziano Vudafieri and Claudio Saverino.
Pucci, Milano, Photo by Santi Caleca
Buccellati, NY, Photo by Donna Dotan
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| Issue #72 | January 11th 2017
The 91st edition of Pitti Uomo is currently underway against the evocative backdrop of Fortezza da Basso in Florence. Confirmed for the winter appointment is Eye Pop, the eyewear-dedicated space produced by Pitti Immagine in collaboration with MIDO. On the first floor of the central pavilion, this space dedicated to leading-edge eyewear investigates the link between eyewear and fashion from the perspective of quality and design. The proposal created for the best concept stores, as well as companies seeking new creative synergies, features a setting curated by Alessandro Moradei. The names are: Clan, Delirious Eyewear, Kyme, David Marc e Spektre.The event closes on January 13.
Following the success of the first two editions, Mido will be back with Bestore, the award for optical retailers, worldwide, that offer the best shopping experience. In line with the evolution in concept stores, with this award the Milan exhibition continues to promote the circulation of new ideas for the fundamental elements of an effective visual merchandising strategy: the importance of interior design, product displays and interaction with customers in a pleasant and creative environment. An international jury composed of sector leaders, trendsetters and marketing experts will choose “the best optical store in the world”. Last year the award went to Thomas Hobmaier, owner of Steingasse 14, Heidelberg, Germany. The first winners will be announced during this year’s edition of Mido. To apply go to http://www.mido.com/bestore-award.
Luxottica Group ended 2016 by announcing that it has renewed the ten-year license contract – through March 31, 2027 – with Ralph LaurenCorporation for the design, manufacture and exclusive worldwide distribution of optical frames and sunglasses for some of Ralph Lauren group’s labels, including Polo and Ralph Lauren. The last months of the year were also characterized by the start of a collaboration as supporting founder between the Group and Milan’s Teatro alla Scala. The agreement unites the Italian institution best known at international level with a group that has taken Italian creativity and style all over the world.
Bestore is back
Eyewear returns to Florence
Four Interreg projects for Certottica and Dolomiticert
At the first call for Interreg V Italia-Austria 2014-2020 proposals, Certottica and Dolomiticert obtained funding for four research projects.In the first, Certottica heads ICAP “Innovation through the combined application of plasma technologies”. At the helm of the Idee project, Udine University will be supported by Certottica and another three entities.Dolomiticert has confirmed its leading role in research in the sports environment by heading the project, Outfeet “Footwear ergonomics: from qualitative analysis to scientific method” and the Alpsportec research “Sports equipment exposed to the Alpine environment”.
The last moves of the year by Luxottica
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| Issue #72 | January 11th 2017
Jean Vuarnet, the great champion skier who gave his name to the famous French eyewear brand, passed away on January 2. He was 83.A brilliant businessman, he brought stimulus and strategy to the Vuarnet brand he created, which became an international benchmark in the sunglasses market thanks to the quality of the lenses. The company was set up in 1959 after a meeting with optician Roger Pouilloux, who conceived the famous sunglasses model 02 in his honor and which Vuarnet wore at the 1960 Winter Games at Squaw Valley (USA), when he won a gold medal for the Downhill skiing event. Subsequently, the two men became close friends with a shared vision that brought about the success of the brand.
Safilo’s entry into wearable technology
Farewell to Jean Vuarnet
Safilo has signed a strategic research and development partnership and licensing agreement with Interaxon, the world leader in consumer brain sensing technology. The project will be called SafiloX.“ SafiloX is the perfect intersection of our renowned iconic eyewear design and authentic quality craftsmanship dating back to 1878, the leading brain sensing technology application, and today's most coveted consumer search to master mental focus and strength to achieve enhanced personal performance and well-being,” said Luisa Delgado, CEO of Safilo. “It is neither another example of technology mounted on frames, nor technology for its own sake. With SafiloX our group leverages its legendary passion for product and people for a wearable eyewear proposition of unparalleled fit and comfort, aspirational design and style, and compelling consumer relevance.”This partnership enables Safilo’s entry into wearable technology.
Essilor Sun Solution started a collaboration with IED
Sofia Ciucchi CEO Il BisonteUgo Giorcelli CFO Salvatore FerragamoFabio Gnocchi CEO AspesiChristie Markowitz Senior Director & ECP Marketing Lead Shire OphthalmicsDarragh O’Connor Vice President, Global Marketing Transitions OpticalMassimo Renon Worldwide Commercial General Manager Marcolin
Essilor® Sun Solution™, the Essilor Group division dedicated to sun plano lenses, has recently started a collaboration with IED – Istituto Europeo di Design in Turin. The objectives of this collaboration are to finance a study on the development by IED students of a concept frame, a communication campaign and marketing tools based on E-SUN™ Kolor Up™, a brand and technology of sun lenses developed by the Essilor® Sun Solution™ division and which guarantees a refreshing perception of colors and improved vision. The first phase of the project will involve students in their final year of studies at the Jewelry and Accessories Design BA (which also includes curriculum on eyewear design). During the second phase, the three best concept frames will become the subject of specific projects by BA students in Graphic Design and Advertising Communication.
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Design, fashion & lifestyle
Helix, the first wooden seat by B-Line, won the Good Design Award 2016.Designed by Favaretto & Partners, this highly evocative chair has a dynamic structure created by continually changing geometrical sections.Set up by the The Chicago Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design and The European Centre for Architecture Art Design and Urban Studies in 1950, the Good Design Award is still one of the most prestigious at international level for worldwide excellence in design. The jury, which met in New York City and Los Angeles in October, chose the projects that best expressed the values of “good design” from hundreds of industrial and graphic design projects entered by over 46 countries. Helix, together with the other winning projects, will be published in the Good Design Yearbook 2016-2017.
Editorial Director: Francesco Gili MIDO Srl Unipersonale · Via Petitti, 16 - 20149 Milano (Italy) · Phone +39 02 32673673 · P. Iva IT 07164050150
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email: [email protected]
Until April 30, 2017, the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (MCASD) present the exhibition Tristano di Robilant, curated by Anthony Graham.Tristano di Robilant’s glass, metal, and ceramic sculptures balance geometric forms with exquisite light and color. His elegant creations highlight the particular qualities of his materials, emphasizing distinctive forms. These works are also acutely attuned to the world around them, with translucent surfaces that play with light and reflection. Their irregular and seemingly random shapes are at once surprising and mesmerizing. The sculptures’ playful forms are often paired with enigmatic titles that borrow from a range of literary, philosophical, and historical influences.
| Issue #72 | January 11th 2017
For the next edition at Porte de Versailles, Paris, from January 20 through 23, 2017, Who’s Next, the international trade show dedicated to women’s ready-to-wear, and Première Classe dedicated to the world of accessories, have decided to explore a highly topical social theme:#Girlsquad, the new womanpower, female collectives and new female creative teams and businesswomen whose creativity is seizing control of the cultural, social and business scenes.The two fairs are being reinvented around this powerful theme so as to offer a unique experience 100% led by groups of women. With a selection of exclusive brands, pop-up stores, guest influencers, a music program and unique scenography, they provide a complete overview of this urban revolution.
Womanpower!
Helix wins Good Design Award
Souls like jewelsAt the basis of Kina necklaces, bracelets and earrings there is the awareness
that the soul can be a jewel that makes things special. Designer Zaklina Jovanic created the collection starting from this concept and borrowing colors and shapes from nature.Kina emphasizes the tactile and visual sensations of nature, transferring them to accessories in soft leather and semiprecious stones in solid, deep colors.Every piece is an exercise in Italian style and skillful artisan craftsmanship: necklaces formed by long strips of multicolor leather; bracelets reminiscent of flower corollas and sea creatures; earrings in unusual shapes given by the characteristics of leather mounted on steel; enveloping chokers in enchanting metallic hues.
Elegant creations
