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SWAROVSKI - A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND
COATINGS
EC Glass Forum – Tough Coatings on a Fragile Substrate
Klaus Monz, Berlin, June 18, 2019
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AGENDA
EC GLASS FORUM, BERLIN, 2019-06-18
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Company introduction
Swarovski coating history
Current coating landscape
4 Coating challenges
5 Summary
6 Questions
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SWAROVSKI GROUP
34 500 emloyees
EUR 3.5 billion turnover
SWAROVSKI
OPTIK
960 employees
EUR 156 million turnover
TYROLIT
4 600 employees
EUR 676 million turnover
SWAROVSKI
CRYSTAL
BUSINESS (SCB)
29 000 employees
EUR 2.7 billion turnover
THE STRUCTURE OF THE SWAROVSKI GROUP
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EUR 2.7 billion turnover (2017)
27 000 employees worldwide
Stores worldwide
1 500 Swarovski Stores
1 500 Partner Stores
Production locations in:
Austria, India, Thailand, Vietnam, Serbia, USA
FACTS
SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL BUSINESS (SCB)
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JEWELRY, WATCHES
AND FASHION
ACCESSORIES
CRYSTAL
COMPONENTS
SWAROVSKI CREATED
DIAMONDS, GENUINE
GEMSTONES AND
CREATED STONES
LIGHTING,
ARCHITECTURE
ANDINTERIOR
SWAROVSKI EXPERIENCES MOBILE SECURITY
AND LIGHT
GUIDANCE
PORTFOLIO OF BUSINESS ACTIVITIES
SWAROVSKI
FIGURINES AND
HOME
ACCESSORIES
CORPORATE GIFTS
SWAROVSKI
FOUNDATION
Swarovski Coating History
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SWAROVSKI COATING HISTORY
• Rhinestone (germ. Strass) = diamond imitation
• Diamond reflects light by total reflection
• Glass: no total reflection due to low refractive index
reflective coating on back side needed
• wet chemical silvering process (spraying of silver nitrate)
used by SWAROVSKI since 1895
technique well known since 1835
brought from Gablonz industry, origin of founder Daniel Swarovski
• additional protective organic coating on backside (spray coating)
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Silver foiling – since 1895
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SWAROVSKI COATING HISTORY
• AURORA BOREALIS (AB) coating
co-created with Christian Dior and BALZERS AG
• PVD: Physical Vapour Deposition
layer thicknesses in nm range possible
light interference effect can be used to generate color
• AB coating: 7 alternating layers of TiO2 (~70 nm)
and SiO2 (~110 nm)
color is generated by interference: yellow reflection color / blue
transmission color
• advantage of PVD coatings for SWAROVSKI
• cut glass surface precision preserved
• with ceramic materials: very good durability achievable
• metallic looks / mirrors possible
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
PVD Coatings – since 1956
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CURRENT COATING LANDSCAPE
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Silver foiling
PVD foilings (Ag, Al, Cr, Ti, Si)
PVD decorative coatings
•> 60 different coatings
•> 45 coloring coatings for CUBIC ZIRCONIA & TOPAZ
Organic decorative coatings (LacquerPro family, PU based)
•> 30 coatings
•on backside
• recently combined with PVD coatings to enhance brilliance / sparkle
Organic protective coatings (Alkyd based, PU based)
• for foilings
• for selected PVD decorative coatings & products
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SWAROVSKI COATING CHALLENGES
• Design fit
• Durability
• Geometry
• Handling
• Costs
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Durability – application segments
Jewelry, Watches & Eyewear
Apparel (incl. beachwear)
Shoes & Accessories
Dance Sport
Wedding & Event Decor
Architecture & Lighting
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Durability – lab tests
SWEATSALT
SPRAY
SEA WATER
SULFUR DIOXIDE
CHLORI-NATED WATER
PERFUME
TEMP. CHANGE
CLIMATE
AB-RASION
LIGHT FAST NESS
TRANS-PORT
PLATING RESIST.
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
• “Sharp” edges: ~ 5-10 µm edge radius
• Plane facets: important for sparkle / brilliance
Geometry
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
• “Sharp” edges: ~ 5-10 µm edge radius
• Plane facets: important for sparkle / brilliance
• Applying lacquer coatings generally leads to
• rounding of edges (edge thinning / fat edges)
• lost planeness
• lost shape & size accuracy (small stones)
Geometry
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
chaton
chaton
lacquer
lacquer
protective
coating
protective
coating
Geometry
• “Sharp” edges: ~ 5-10 µm edge radius
• Plane facets: important for sparkle / brilliance
• Applying lacquer coatings generally leads to
• rounding of edges (edge thinning / fat edges)
• lost planeness
• lost shape & size accuracy (small stones)
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Geometry
• “Sharp” edges: ~ 5-10 µm edge radius
• Plane facets: important for sparkle / brilliance
• Applying lacquer coatings generally leads to
• rounding of edges (edge thinning / fat edges)
• lost planeness
• lost shape & size accuracy (small stones)
Result
• inhomogeneous coloring (for transparent layers)
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Geometry
• “Sharp” edges: ~ 5-10 µm edge radius
• Plane facets: important for sparkle / brilliance
• Applying lacquer coatings generally leads to
• rounding of edges (edge thinning / fat edges)
• lost planeness
• lost shape & size accuracy (small stones)
Result
• inhomogeneous coloring (for transparent layers)
• plastic look
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COATING CHALLENGES
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Geometry
• “Sharp” edges: ~ 5-10 µm edge radius
• Plane facets: important for sparkle / brilliance
• Applying lacquer coatings generally leads to
• rounding of edges (edge thinning / fat edges)
• lost planeness
• lost shape & size accuracy (small stones)
Result
• inhomogeneous coloring (for transparent layers)
• plastic look
Current limitations
• to avoid plastic look: backside lacquering only
• to preserve shape & size accuracy: max thickness 20 µm
• to achieve homogeneous translucent coloring: low pigmentation (light colors),
and thickness < 10 µm
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• product size range: 0.7 to > 100 mm
• 2D-like and 3D shapes
• for small parts
• retail price in dozen-€-cent range
manufacturing cost constraints apply
• single part handling not economically feasible
many stones must be pre-arranged & coated simultaneously (2D)
• for larger parts
• individual handling possible
• 3D coating feasible
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
COATING CHALLENGESHandling / Costs
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SUMMARY
A SPARKLING WORLD OF GLASS AND COATINGS
Properties of coatings we are looking for
uniform coatings on
cut glass
front sidecoatingsdesired
extend PVD –lacquer
combinations
silvering oflacquercoatings
translucentcolors
high colorsaturation
color variety
durabilitymanufacturing
costs
THANK YOU
QUESTIONS ?
