PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS TABLE TOP EPOXY SURFACE PREPARATION Temperature: The environment in which you install this epoxy is highly critical. Ideal conditions are above 75° because at temperatures below 75° the epoxy does not cure properly resulting in a murky surface. We advise using a heater of some sort during the 72hr curing process. Measuring: Measuring is something you should not take lightly. Do not mix more than a ½ gallon of resin (part A) with ½ gallon of hardener (part B) at once. This is to ensure that you measure out each solution accurately and get the best results. In total, 1 gallon should be mixed at once (½ Resin ½ Hardener) smaller amounts are okay to mix as long as it is a 50/50 mix ratio. The hardener (part B) solution should be poured first followed by the resin agent (part A). This is to help the solution mix better. Use a new container for each mix as any previous mix left over in a container will contaminate the following batch with curing epoxy. Mixing and Pouring: It is very important that you scrape the sides of your container and stir stick during the mixing process only. Unmixed material left on the sides and then scraped down into the solution will compromise your 50/50 mix ratio. Be sure that you DO NOT scrape the sides of the container when pouring out the mixture onto your surface as this will leave uncured sticky spots. When you are applying your epoxy, pour the entire container out at once and then do not return to that container as any epoxy left in that container will cure at a different speed than the epoxy you applied. ***Be Advised: We recommend that you do a small scale test of your epoxy application before you mix large amounts of solution to ensure that your application is correct and provides you with the desired results. INSTALLING Wipe all surfaces down with a clean dry cloth and remove all debris such as dust from the surface. If the solution will be applied to stainless steel, formica, copper or laminate you can go on to step #1, skipping the seal coat step below. If your surface is copper based, apply a water based polyurethane sealer first before applying the epoxy. As stated earlier, you should do a small scale application to test the reaction between the epoxy and your surface. If you are applying epoxy on top of a wood, cork, concrete, granite or tile surface you absolutely MUST follow the seal instructions below. Failure to do so will result in a bubbly surface that will leave permanent negative impressions on your Table Top Epoxy. Seal Coat Information: Make sure that any previous finishes are completely dry before continuing the installation. Any spots of moisture can and will leave fish-eye bubbles or other solution curing problems. If your surface has a previous stain or oil based coating, you must apply 2-3 coats of water based polyurethane before coating with a seal coat. Epoxy does not bind with oil based surfaces. Our epoxy solution is installed in two stages. The first stage is the seal coat. It is a small batch of epoxy that is brushed on in a thin layer to seal any crevices in the surface and prevent air bubbles from appearing in the following coat. The second stage is known as the flood coat. Both stages use our epoxy solution. For both the seal and flood coats the ratio of mixture is 50/50. For the seal coat mix a small portion of epoxy of both resin (part A) and hardener (part B) for a few minutes and stir well by hand. Follow by using a paint brush to apply to the surface. Epoxy cures rapidly in the container so it is highly important that you apply the seal coat quickly. Once the seal coat is applied wait 4-6 hours before you apply the flood coat. Don’t wait over 10 hours to apply the flood coat because you will be at risk of not binding the two coatings perfectly. Detroit Tough Epoxy | Pontiac, MI 48341 | (855) 672-0422 | [email protected]
Transcript
PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS
TABLE TOP EPOXY
SURFACE PREPARATIONTemperature: The environment in which you install this epoxy is highly critical. Ideal conditions are above 75° because
at temperatures below 75° the epoxy does not cure properly resulting in a murky surface. We advise using a heater of
some sort during the 72hr curing process.
Measuring: Measuring is something you should not take lightly. Do not mix more than a ½ gallon of resin (part A) with
½ gallon of hardener (part B) at once. This is to ensure that you measure out each solution accurately and get the best
results. In total, 1 gallon should be mixed at once (½ Resin ½ Hardener) smaller amounts are okay to mix as long as it
is a 50/50 mix ratio. The hardener (part B) solution should be poured first followed by the resin agent (part A). This is to
help the solution mix better. Use a new container for each mix as any previous mix left over in a container will
contaminate the following batch with curing epoxy.
Mixing and Pouring: It is very important that you scrape the sides of your container and stir stick during the mixing
process only. Unmixed material left on the sides and then scraped down into the solution will compromise your 50/50
mix ratio. Be sure that you DO NOT scrape the sides of the container when pouring out the mixture onto your surface as this will leave uncured sticky spots. When you are applying your epoxy, pour the entire container out at once and then do not return to that container as any epoxy left in that container will cure at a different speed than the
epoxy you applied.
***Be Advised: We recommend that you do a small scale test of your epoxy application before you mix large amounts
of solution to ensure that your application is correct and provides you with the desired results.
INSTALLING
Wipe all surfaces down with a clean dry cloth and remove all debris such as dust from the surface. If the solution will be
applied to stainless steel, formica, copper or laminate you can go on to step #1, skipping the seal coat step below. If
your surface is copper based, apply a water based polyurethane sealer first before applying the epoxy. As stated
earlier, you should do a small scale application to test the reaction between the epoxy and your surface. If you are
applying epoxy on top of a wood, cork, concrete, granite or tile surface you absolutely MUST follow the seal instructions
below. Failure to do so will result in a bubbly surface that will leave permanent negative impressions on your Table Top
Epoxy.
Seal Coat Information: Make sure that any previous finishes are completely dry before continuing the installation. Any
spots of moisture can and will leave fish-eye bubbles or other solution curing problems. If your surface has a previous
stain or oil based coating, you must apply 2-3 coats of water based polyurethane before coating with a seal coat. Epoxy
does not bind with oil based surfaces. Our epoxy solution is installed in two stages. The first stage is the seal coat. It is
a small batch of epoxy that is brushed on in a thin layer to seal any crevices in the surface and prevent air bubbles from
appearing in the following coat. The second stage is known as the flood coat. Both stages use our epoxy solution. For
both the seal and flood coats the ratio of mixture is 50/50. For the seal coat mix a small portion of epoxy of both resin (part A) and hardener (part B) for a few minutes and stir well by hand. Follow by using a paint brush to apply to the
surface. Epoxy cures rapidly in the container so it is highly important that you apply the seal coat quickly. Once the seal
coat is applied wait 4-6 hours before you apply the flood coat. Don’t wait over 10 hours to apply the flood coat because
you will be at risk of not binding the two coatings perfectly.
Detroit Tough Epoxy | Pontiac, MI 48341 | (855) 672-0422 | [email protected]
PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS
Detroit Tough Epoxy | Pontiac, MI 48341 | (855) 672-0422 | [email protected]
Make sure you mask off the area that you are working on. Painter's plastic with painter's tape is ideal as using a
substitute like cardboard will allow the epoxy to bleed through the cracks and crevices into unwanted areas. Epoxy is
extremely durable once it is cured, so removing unwanted epoxy will be difficult. Save yourself the trouble and mask
off areas as good as possible.
If the surface you are coating is refrigerated or cold by nature, make sure you find a way to heat the surface to room
temperature before proceeding with your epoxy install as the cold surface will compromise the binding process.
1. Flood coats are typically a single coat for counter tops and tables. They are applied in 1/4" coats at a time and
can be reapplied as many times as desired as long as there is a 4-6 hour drying interval in between coatings. If
drying interval exceeds 10 hours, a light sand is required followed by a cleaning with denatured alcohol before
the next coat can be applied.
2. Make sure the area you are applying epoxy in is above 75 degrees a few hours before mixing the epoxy. It is
critical that during the curing process the temperature stays above 75 degrees.
3. We urge you to heat up the container containing the resin (Part A) with warm/hot water for a few minutes. This
will cause the epoxy to mix easier. However, heating up the resin prior to mixing causes the epoxy to harden
quicker. DO NOT heat the hardner (Part B). Pour the entire solution onto your surface following mixing.
4. Batches are not meant to be mixed simultaneously. Mix one batch at a time as the epoxy will begin to harden
immediately in the container. Mix a single batch, pour it and level it. Afterwards you have 20 minutes to pour
the next batch, continuing the smooth seamless surface you are creating.
5. Stirring by hand is an acceptable method to use. We recommend a mixing drill as it will blend the solution much
better. Mixing is highly important. Improperly mixed epoxy will not cure the way it should and will result in a
surface that is sticky and not aesthetically pleasing. Mix the solution for 2 minutes when using a drill, avoiding
mixing at too high of speed (this avoids making bubbles in the epoxy). Make sure to evenly mix the container,
moving the drill all around to ensure all material is being mixed. After two minutes of mixing, use a stir stick to
scrape epoxy from the bottom and sides of the container to make sure all material is mixed. Mix the resulting
solution for an additional two minutes. Pour the solution immediately after mixing is complete. If you are mixing by hand with a stir stick, mix the solution for 4 to 5 minutes.
6. Table Top Epoxy levels off at about a 1/4 inch thick. Additional coatings can be applied if a thicker level is
desired. It is necessary to wait at least 4 hours and a maximum of 10 hours before applying an additional
coating. The most effective way to install epoxy is to begin pouring on one end, going left to right (or vice versa)
working your way to the opposite end. Pouring slowly with control of the container is the key to a successful
pour. Any areas that were missed can be compensated by pouring more epoxy in that area.
7. Once epoxy is poured and air bubbles are visible, you will need to remove them using a heat source. We
recommend using propane torch or heat gun. When using the heat source, keep the source a few inches from
the surface of the epoxy to ensure that the epoxy does not burn. This is a quick process and should take no
longer than a minute or two. After the first heating, wait 5-10 minutes and check again for bubbles. Repeat the
process as needed, however don’t use a heat source if the epoxy has been curing for 20 minutes or longer as it
can cause permanent waves or ripples.
FLOOD COAT STEPS: Please read everything before starting!
PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS
Bar Rails: Install the bar rail first and seal the rail with a small bead of Elmer’s Glue or Latex Caulk to keep air
bubbles form emerging during the epoxy coat. Do not use glues containing silicone to secure the bar rail, epoxy does
not stick to silicone. It is recommended that you coat the bar rail with a polyurethane instead of epoxy, polyurethane is
much easier to work around the bar rail as it has a smaller thickness.
Edges: To create coatings on edges, epoxy can be allowed to run off the edges slowly. Instead of forming icicles like
other coatings, epoxy forms ½” under the bar rail. If unwanted these drips can be removed by sanding after curing.
Clean Up: Tools used for application, such as the drill bit or stir sticks can be reused without cleaning. Wet Epoxy
cleans off of hands with acetone, floors or other surfaces can be cleaned with acetone but should be cleaned with
caution as the acetone may affect your surface.
Maintenance: To clean your epoxy finish do not use abrasive chemicals. Instead, use warm soapy water with a soft
cloth.
Hot Beverages: For best results use coasters when placing extremely hot items on the epoxy surface. The initial months following application are critical as 99% of the epoxy is cured but has not has not developed full heat protection. Epoxy should not be treated like stone with heat. Place heated objects with caution.
ADVANCED TECHNIQUES
These application methods below are known to be accurate but are considered advanced techniques and we cannotaccept liability for unintended results.
Embedding Solid Objects: Items such as rocks, bottle caps, coins, etc can be inserted into the epoxy surface.
However, the surface must first be sealed with a base coat of epoxy. Following the base coat, the items can be
inserted carefully. At this point you can either allow the surface to cure with the items and then add another layer of epoxy or you can simply leave the first coat as a sealer.
Embedding Pictures: Pictures can be embedded into the Table Top Epoxy surface using Mod Podge, available at craft stores. This will prevent the epoxy from eating through the pictures, paper objects or any other material you include on your surface.
Re-Coating: If a re-coat is needed and it is within the initial 4-10 hour curing window of the first coat, no further preparation work is required. However, if the curing window exceeds 10 hours from the initial coating a light sanding is
required. Clear the dust off the surface with denatured alcohol and wiped down with a clean and lint free rag.
Scratches left from sanding will be dissipated in the next coat and the surface will look like glass once again.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
Surface is soft, wet or sticky after 48 hours: The cause of this problem is a solution that was not properly mixed. When the two epoxy components are mixed they should be mixed thoroughly. The solution is to apply a new flood coat over the entire surface. If the surface is soft or wet use denatured alcohol and a paint scraper to remove as much
of the previous soft coating as possible then pour the new epoxy layer on top. This new coat will dry and harden the
entire surface if all steps are followed properly. Also be sure that you DO NOT scrape the sides when pouring the mixture onto your surface.
Air Bubbles: Air bubbles scattered across the entire surface are a result of not removing bubbles during the installation process. A heat gun or hair dryer, at a minimum, is crucial for proper installation. DO NOT skip this step if you see bubbles while the epoxy is curing.
Detroit Tough Epoxy | Pontiac, MI 48341 | (855) 672-0422 | [email protected]
PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS
Detroit Tough Epoxy | Pontiac, MI 48341 | (855) 672-0422 | [email protected]
