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138 < After Dark

¡TEQUILA!¡TEQUILA!

A cross-section of la piña (the heart) of the blue agave plant

If God were Mexican, tequila would surely be our heavenly reward,flowing in lieu of milk and honey. Local lore asserts that it was bornwhen lightning hit a tall blue agave cooking its heart.

¡TEQUILA!

Historians maintain that, following Span-ish conquest and the introduction of thedistillation process, tequila was developedfrom the ancient Aztec drink pulque.Whatever the true origin, Mexico’s na-tional drink long predated the Spanish,and is considered North America’s old-est intoxicating spirit.

Conjuring up tequila, what might cometo mind is late-night teary-eyed confes-sions or spaghetti-Western-style barbrawls. But tequila is more complex andworldly than many presume. By some ac-counts it’s a digestive that reduces cho-

lesterol and stress. Shots of the finesttequilas can cost upward of $100 each,and are meant to be savored as ardentlyas fine cognacs or single-malt scotches.

Just one of several agaves fermented andbottled in Mexico, tequila rose to fameduring the Mexican Revolution when itbecame synonymous with national her-itage and pride. Since the 1990s tequilahas enjoyed a soaring popularity aroundthe globe, and people the world over arestarting to realize that tequila is more thana one-way ticket to a hangover.

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Workers harvest Agave tequilanaWeber azul

At the fermentation stage, the agaveis added to water.

An assembly-line worker fills tequilabottles

José Cuervo is Mexico's largesttequila maker

T EQUILA TOURSNear Boca de Tomatlán, Agave Don Crispín (E Las Juntas y LosVeranos, 10 mi south of PVP322/223–6002) is a small but proudproducer of 100% agave tequila that also sells raicilla, an un-sophisticated liquor made from green agave. Learn the basicsof tequila production, and see the pit ovens and old-fashionedstills. If you’re serious about tequila, you must go to tequilacountry. One of the most complete tours is with Hacienda San

José del Refugio (E Amatitán, about 400 km [250 mi] east ofPV, P 33/3613–9585), producer of the Herradura brand. On thetwo-hour Tequila Express (P 33/3880–9099 or 33/3122–7920)train ride, blue agave fields zip by as you sip tequila and lis-ten to roving mariachis. After a distillery tour, there’s lunch,folk dancing, and charro (cowboy) demonstrations.

The Blue AgaveTequila is made from the blue agave plant (not froma cactus, as is commonly thought), a member of thelily family. Nearly 100,000 acres of blue agave are grownin Mexico today; the plant is native to Sierra Madreregion, still the center for agave fields and tequila pro-duction.

After the blue agave plant matures (which takes 8–12years), its spiky leaves are removed and the hearts cookedup to three days in a traditional pit oven (or convec-tion oven) to concentrate the sugars. Seeping blood-red juice, the hearts are then ground and strained, thenfermented and distilled at least two or three times.

MezcalLiquor distilled from any maguey (agave) plant is calledmezcal, so technically, tequila is a type of mezcal. Butmezcal is usually used to describe a liquor madefrom any agave except the blue agave from which tequilais made. Originally hailing from Oaxaca, mezcal isas popular as tequila in Mexico, if not more so. Liketequila, quality varies widely from cheap firewaterto smooth (and expensive) varieties with complex fla-vors. The type of maguey used influences the qual-ity greatly.

Effortless EducationYou can chat with your local bartender about the blueagave revolution, but the information you get may beflawed. Close to casa, you can learn a lot at La Casadel Tequila (E Calle Morelos 589, Centro P322/222–2000 C Closed Sun.) Ask the owner to educateyou as you taste a few of the 150 tequilas on hand.

TEQU

ILA!

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140 < After Dark

Connoisseurs recommend imbibing noth-ing but 100% pure agave—with no addedsugar or chemicals—even for mixeddrinks. A tequila’s quality is most di-rectly related to the concentration ofblue agave, and a higher agave contentadds significantly to the price. The cheap-est varieties have 49% of their alcoholderived from sugars other than blueagave. (The max allowed by law.) Thisfact will be clearly marked on the labelas TEQUILA 100% DE AGAVE or TEQUILA

100% PURO DE AGAVE.

Aging tequila changes the flavor, butdoesn’t necessarily improve it. Whiskeyand scotch inspired the aging process inoak barrels, which instills a smoky tasteor imparts one of many other subtle bou-quets. Some experts consider the unmit-igated flavor of blanco (silver) superiorto, or at least less influenced by Yankeeand European tastes than that of re-posado (aged) or añejo (mature).

Distinctions you should know (from—generally speaking—least to most ex-pensive) are:

BLANCO (SILVER): Also known as whitetequila (though “silver” is the officialname), tequila blanco is clear as water.It is unaged—bottled immediately afterdistillation—and therefore has the purestagave taste of the tequila varieties.

ORO (GOLD): Also called joven (young)tequila, this is tequila blanco to whichcolorants or flavorings have been added,or that has been mixed with tequila agedin oak barrels, giving it a golden hue. Ad-ditives (all strictly regulated) such ascaramel, oak tree extract, glycerin, andsugar syrup simulate the flavor of tequilaaged in oak barrels.

REPOSADO (AGED): Aged in oak barrels 2to 11 months, reposado; smoother andmore flavorful than blanco, as it has ac-quired some of the oak flavor.

AÑEJO (EXTRA-AGED): Tequila aged morethan one year in oak barrels; may alsobe called “mature tequila.” This is thesmoothest tequila variety, and the onethat most resembles cognac or whiskey—ideal for sipping. Some feel that the agavetaste is watered down.

Line ‘em up!

CHOOSING A TEQUILA

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CREAM OF THE CROP

In the tequila business, innovation andyoung energy aren’t as successful as ageand experience. Traditional tequilerafamilies like those behind Don Julio,Sauza, and José Cuervo tend to get themost outstanding results, having pur-sued perfection for generations. All of ourtop picks are 100% blue agave.

El Tesoro de Don Felipe Platinum: Triple dis-tilled, and produced the old-fashionedway, the agave hearts crushed with astone grinder and baked in a brick oven

Don Eduardo: Youthful, crisp, and jubi-lant, with herby notes; triple distilled

Sauza’s Tres Generaciones Blanco: Cleanand balanced with hints of cinnamon

Chinaco Blanco: International World Spir-its Competition judges proclaimed it“the epitome of tequila character,...witha lively finish”

Amatitlán Reposado: A complex spiritwith a suggestion of nutmeg and spice;awarded best in class at the 2005 Inter-national World Spirits Competition

Penacho Azteca Reposado: Another awardwinner by the same distillery as Amati-tlán Reposado

Chinaco Reposado: Medium-dry restedtequila with an oak-spice bite and sub-tle fruit and flower aromas

Don Julio 1942: Exquisite, complex tequilawith the aroma of toffee and vanilla

José Cuervo’s Reserva de la Familia: Agedfor three years in new oak barrels; richflavor with touches of vanilla and herbs,and a long, graceful finish

Arette Gran Clase: Ultrasmooth, one of thesuavest tequilas anywhere; aged for afull three years, it goes for nearly $200a bottle

A T EQUILA BY ANY OT HER NAME ISN’T T EQUILA

To be called “tequila” a drink must meet the following strictrequirements, as put forth by Consejo Regulador de Tequila(Tequila Regulatory Council; CRT):

■ made entirely in Mexico, and from blue agave grown inMexico (though it can be bottled elsewhere)

■ distilled twice; some varieties are distilled three times

■ contains at least 51% alcohol derived from Weber blueagave plant

■ bears the official stamp of the CRT on the label

■ if it is 100% blue agave, it must be bottled in Mexico atthe plant at which it was made

Three faces of tequila. . .

TEQU

ILA!

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