tech-pack Apparel

7/23/2019 tech-pack Apparel

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Bruning Product Development

Tech Flat

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012

Name: Mens Suit Jacket

Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit

Brand: JSB

Status: Proto 1

Size Range: Mens 42-46

Sample Size: 44

Designer: Jessica Bruning

Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX

Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX

Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Front

Back


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POM Sheet

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012



Brand: JSB

Status: Proto 1


Sample Size: 44





A-A

A-B

A-C

A-D

A-D

A-E

A-F

A-G

A-H

A-I

A-K

A-L

A-M

A-N

A-O

A-P

A-Q

HPS

R

A-S

A-T

AA-V

A-W

A-X

A-Y

A-J


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BOM Sheet

Proto # 1 Size Range: Mens 42-46

Style # 123 Sample Size: 44

Season: Fall 2012 Designer: Jessica Bruning

Name: Mens Suit Jacket Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXXX

Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fit Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXX

Brand: JSB Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Status: Proto 1

Bill of Materials (BOM

Item/Description Content Placement Supplier Width/Weight/Size Finish Qty

Suiting 100%

wool

Body, collar, lapels,

sleeves

Button, 4 hole Sleeve cuff diameter 8

Button, 4 hole Front placket diameter 2

Lining Polyester Body, sleeve

Felt Shoulder pad,

shoulder head,front chest

Haircloth Front chest

Interfacing Lapel, shoulder

seams, back side

seam

Interfacing Front chest

Cotton wadding Shoulder pad,

shoulder head

Fiberweb fabric Shoulder pad

Burlap collar

Care tag Above front left

inner pocket

1

Woven hang loop Back center at the

collar

1

Main tag Above front right

inner pocket

1


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Armscye call outs

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012



Brand: JSB

Status: Proto 1


Sample Size: 44





shoulder pa

Fusible interli

1. Fuse interlining along back armscye on jacket back and front armscye on sleeve front.

2. Sew twill tape to armscye using a 301 stitch

3. Sew felt on sleeve side of armscye using large 301 stitch

4. Attach two pieces of the sleeve head together using a 401 chain stitch as shown.

5. Sew sleeve heads to armscye on sleeve side using 301 stitch

6. Sew two pieces of felt on sleeve head to each other using large 301 stitch.

7. Sew felt sleeve head to shoulder side of armscye using 301 stitch.8. Sew set in sleeve using 1/2 seam allowance and 301 stitch.

Twill tape

Sleeve head

Jacket front chest

Felt

interfacing o

insideJacket Back


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woven fusible interfacing

shoulder seam

upper collar undercollar

1. Iron woven fusible interfacing along back collar

2. Insert fashion fabric of upper collar between burlap su

fabric and felt undercollar then stitch.3. Fold top of upper collar over 1/4 and press

4. Stitch felt undercollar to lapel and shoulder using han

sewn whip stitch.

5. Fold upper collar over and sew along folded and press

edge using a 301 stitch


Collar call outs

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012



Brand: JSBStatus: Proto 1


Sample Size: 44






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Cuff call outs

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012



Brand: JSB

Status: Proto 1


Sample Size: 44





1/2

1 1/2

6

Sleeve Faux Button Placket

Attach buttons with 101 stitch

3/4

3/4

1. Attach 3 3/4 wide fusible interlining 1 from the edge of

sleeve.

2. Sew side seams together with 301 stitch, leaving 6 1/2

open on back side seam.3. Finish edges with 503 stitch

4. Fold front hem as shown in figure B and stitch along

lines 1 and 2

5. Turn remaining side of cuff up 2 inches and stitch 1/4

from side.

6. Overlap left over right and attach buttons as shown in

figure C

7. Attach lining to fashion fabric, right sides together, using

a 103 stitch at the cuff. Stitch at 2 on lining, 1 on fashion fabric.

(dashes = folds)

Figure B

Figure A

1

2ven

hem

Figure C

1/2


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9

6


Lining

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012





Sample Size: 4

Designer: Jessica Brunin

Date First Sent: XX/XX/XXX

Date Revised: XX/XX/XXX

Fabrication: plain weave suitin

1. Sew lining pieces together, front, sides, and back using 301 stitch.

2. Sew lining to front placket facing using a 301 stitch. Sew facing to front jacket placket with a 301 stitch.

3. Press lining up 2 inches at the hem.

4. Turn right side out and stitch hem with a SSc and a blind catchstitch.5. Set lining sleeve leaving cap unstitched to turn the sleeve right side out.

6. Overlap shoulder seams with the front 2 inches under the back ( folded over 1 and pressed) and stitch

using a whipstitch.

7. Close sleeve caps with whipstitch and 1/2 seam allowance.

8. The collar will be folded over to finish the lining at the neck using a 301 stitch as instructed in

the collar call outs.

1 pleat


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Cuff call outs

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012





Sample Size: 44





Fuse interfacing 2 to lapel and at side princess seam

Layer haircloth (see directions below for order) under

lt and attach using a large zig zag handitch as shownto interfacing 1.

Layer shoulder pad between haircloth and felt.

Use a large basting 301 stitch along the armscye as shown

Attach twill tape using a 503 stitch

Edge finish canvas using ?

Attach canvas to collar with repeated 503 stitches as shown.

Fuse interfacing 1 with all components to body of jacket.

Burlap Interfacing 2

Interfacing 1 Felt

HairclothFashion

Fabric

1

2

2

3

4

1. Sew pieces labled 2 to piece 1 using large, zig z

hand stitches

2. Stitch piece 3 to piece 4 using large, zig zag han

stitches


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Collar call outs

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012





Sample Size: 44





POM

Code Point of Measure

B-A Front Length to break point 21 1/2

B-B Collar Stand at CB 1

B-C Lapel Point 1 1/2

B-D Gorge Position 5 1/2

B-E Collar Point 1 1/4

B-F Lapel Point to Collar Point 2B-G Lapel Width 5

B-A

B-B

B-C

B-D

B-E

B-F

B-G


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Pocket call outs

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012


Fit Type: 3 pocket classic fitBrand: JSB

Status: Proto 1


Sample Size: 44



Date Revised: XX/XX/XXXXFabrication: plain weave suiting

Breast Pocket POM

C-A width 4 1/2

C-B height 1

C-C slope 1

C-C

C-A

C-B Flap Pocket POM

D-A width 6 1/2

D-B height 2

D

D-A

Welt Pocket POM

E-A Width 6 3/8

E-B height 3/8


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FIberweb

cotton wadding

felt

1. Layer felt, cotton wadding, and fiberweb as shown.2. Stitch layers together with large handstitch as shown.

3. Layer shoulder pad between felt and haircloth as directed in interlinings directions.

4. Sew to armscye at 1/4 with 301 stitch with basting SPI.


Shoulder Pad

Proto # 1

Style # 123

Season: Fall 2012





Sample Size: 44






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Grading Sheet






Brand: JSB Fabrication: plain weave suiting

Status: Proto 1

Grading Rules

Grade

down

Grade up Tolera

nce

Sample

Size 44

Size

Down 42

Size Up

46

Front Length -1/4 +1/4 33 32 33

Center back Length -1/4 +1/4 30 30 30

Side length -1/4 +1/4 20 19 20

Chest width circumference -1 +1 44 43 45

Across shoulder -1/4 + 3/8 19 19 19 5/8

Across chest -1/4 +3/8 16 15 16 3/8

Across back -1/4 +3/8 22 21 22 3/8

Waist width circumference from HPS -1 + 1 42 41 43

Bottom opening circumference -1 +1 44 43 46

Sleeve length top armhole -1/8-1/4 +1/8-1/4 3/8 24 24 24

Sleeve length underarm -1/8-1/4 +1/8-1/4 3/8 17 16 17

Curved armhole width circumference -1/2 +5/8 5/8 23 23 24 1/8

Muscle width circumference -1/4-1/2 +1/4-1/2 16 16 17

Elbow width circumference -1/4 +3/8 15 14 15 3/8

Sleeve opening width circumference -1/4-1/2 +1/4-1/2 12 11 12

Neck depth center front -0-1/4 +0-1/4 18 18 18

Dart length bust dart -0 +0 1/8 9 9 9

Dart Placement A. HPS to bust dart -0 +0 1/8 13 13 13

B. CF to bust dart -0 +0 1/8 4 4 4

C. Underarm to bust dart -0 +0 1/8 1 1 1

D. HPS to princess dart -0 +0 1/8 13 13 13

E. CF to princess dart -0 +0 1/8 6 6 6

Distance between buttons -0 +0 1/16 4 4 4

HPS to top breast pocket -0 +0 1/8 12 12 12

HPS to top of flap pocket -0 +0 1/8 23 23 23

CF to breast pocket -0 +0 1/8 3 3 3

Slope of breast pocket -0 +0 1/8 1 1 1

CF to flap pocket -0 +0 1/8 5 5 5

Breast pocket width -0 +0 1/8 4 4 4

Breast pocket height -0 +0 1/8 1 1 1

Flap pocket width -0 +0 1/8 6 6 6

Flap height -0 +0 1/8 2 2 2


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Construction






Brand: JSB

Collar Join with LSb Hand sewn whip

stitch on collar

back

Press

Top collar LSb Hand sewn catch

stitch top collar

down.

Press

Interlinings Attach all interlinings and

support materials as

shown on call outs

Button Attach 101 X formation

Buttonhole Keyhole Hand sewnbuttonhole stitch Openbuttonhol

e with

scissors

Date post:	13-Feb-2018
Category:	Documents
Upload:	sharvari-shankar
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