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Page 1: Technique of Natural Dyeing and traditional pattern of ...unesdoc.unesco.org/images/0016/001631/163184M.pdf · bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr Technique
Page 2: Technique of Natural Dyeing and traditional pattern of ...unesdoc.unesco.org/images/0016/001631/163184M.pdf · bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr Technique

bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

eroberogeday

elak s suxnI

k> pat; cnÞmunIrdæa elak esam vNѳ

© rkSasiTi§RKb;y:ag All Rights Reserved

December 2007

Prepared by Mr. Sor SoknyMiss. Phat Chanmony Ratha, Mr. Som Vannak

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� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Foreword by UNESCO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

eyabl;elaknaykviTüasßan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

esckþIepþIm Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

EpñkTI 1 1> BN’Rkhm 1. Red color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5

2> BN’elOg 2. Yellow color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1

3> BN’exov 3. Blue color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 6

4> BN’exµA 4. Black color. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 0

EpñkTI 2 5> hUl 5. Hol. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 7

6> pamYg 6. Phamuong. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 2

7> cr)ab; 7. Chorabab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 6

8> sarug 8. Sarong Sotr. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 8

9> RkmasURt 9. Scarf. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 0

10> Bidan nigrnaMg 10. Pidan and Roneang. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 2

matikaGtßbT

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�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

bBa¢IrukçCati List of plants . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 5

sTÞanuRkmtm,aj Technical terms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 9

EpnTI Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 0

RbeTskm<úCa Cambodia extþtaEkv Takeo extþkNþal Kandal extþéRBEvg Prey Veng extþkMBg;cam Kampong Cham

bBa¢IeQµaHGñkEdl)anpþl;smÖasn_ List of interviewees . . . . . . 9 4

Éksareyag References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 8

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� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

FOREWORD

UNESCO is much honored to have contributed to the successful publication of this book about one of the most important traditional crafts in Cambodia; natural dyeing. The completion of this publication bears testimony to the

continuous and intensive efforts of the Buddhist Institute to compile a very useful document on the techniques of natural dyeing so that the future generations of Cambodia may use these traditional techniques as a subsidiary occupation to improve their living conditions and to preserve their cultural heritage.

Natural dyeing in Cambodia incorporates specific techniques to produce colors from natural materials without using chemicals. All the elements involved in this process are available in the country. Of course, this natural color is suitable for the Khmer silk as its vivacity and intensity last for a very long period of time. The secret to this traditional craft is revealed in this precious book. Preserving natural dyeing is essential since this valuable tradition is already disappearing in some areas where craftsmen now tend to rely on chemical colors of doubtful quality.

UNESCO would also like to encourage national institutions to take new measures aiming at safeguarding this promising traditional craft by disseminating knowledge on a much larger scale. Training young Cambodian people with traditional craft techniques is the only way forward to contribute to its preservation. In this respect, UNESCO is ready to provide continuing assistance to the Royal Government for the benefits of the future generations of Cambodia.

Teruo Jinnai

UNESCO Representative in Cambodia

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�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

eyabl;rbs;naykviTüasßanBuT§sasnbNÐitü

viTüasa®sþkan;EtrIkceRmInBImYyqñaM eTAmYyqñaM smÖar³eRbIR)as;RKb;Ebb

y:agkan;Etvivtþn_eTArkPaBfµI nigTan;sm½y rYmpSMnigTIpSaresrImankarRbkYt

RbECg\tQb;Qr sUm,IEtvb,Fm’RbéBNI énRbeTsnImYy² k¾mankar

pSBVpSay [RbeTsepSg² TTYlsÁal;erog²xøÜnEdr. TnÞwmnwgkarrIkceRmIn

TaMgGs;enHeyIg CakUnExµrk¾RtUvEtrkSa nigpSBVpSayGVIEdlCavb,Fm’ RbéBNI

énCatieyIg eTaHbI manGVIEdlfµInigTMenIbCag k¾eyIgminePøcnUvGVIEdlCa

b£sKl;BitR)akdrbs;eyIg dUcCakart,aj Rkma sarugsURt hUl pamYg

cr)ab; Bidan Edlman lkçN³ RbéBNICatieyIg. saklPavUbnIykmµ

eRbób)andUcCak®nþkmYyEdldak;páacRmuHBN’ EdlBN’TaMgenaHdMNag[

vb,Fm’rbs;CnCatinImYy² enAelIBiPBelakeyIgenH.

KYrkt;smÁal;fa plitplsURtExµrCaeRcIn\LÚvminsUvRClk;BN’

FmµCatieT eRcInEteRbIl½xKImI EdlCaplitplseRmcnaMcUlBIbreTs.

dUecñHkareRbIR)as;l½xFmµCatirbs;Exµr BitCaminsUvsm,Úr NamYyl½xKImIman

RKb;BN’ Etl½xFmµCatiminsm,ÚrBN’dUcl½xKImIeT. eTaHbICaplitpl

tm,ajsil,³sib,kmµTaMgenH mankarBi)akkñúgkarplity:agNak¾eday

ehIyCaBiesseTAeTotkñ úgkareRbIR)as;l½xFmµCatienaHrwtEtBi)ak

nigRtUvkarPaBGMNt; b:uEnþGVIEdlRbCaCatieyIg)anTTYlenaH minEmn

RtwmEttémø kñúgkarTijlk;sMBt;mYyk,inenaHeT KWEfmTaMgTTYlnUvtémø nig

kitþiysrbs;CatieyIgeTotpg.

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� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

edayemIleXIjdUecñHehIy RBmTaMgmankar]btßmÖBIGgÁkar UNESCO

EpñkfvikapgenaH RkumRsavRCavrbs;viTüasßanBuT§sasnbNÐitü )ancuH

eFVIkarRsavRCav BIviFIRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKMrUtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

enAkñúgextþbIman³ extþéRBEvg extþkNþal nig extþtaEkv edIm,ITukCaÉksar

RsavRCavteTAmuxeTot nigsRmab;GñkminTan;ecH[)anyl;nUvbBaðamYycMnYn

sþIBIkarplitenH.

enAkñúgesovePAenH elakGñknwgsÁal;nUvk,ac;hUl pamYg cr)ab; sarugsURt

RkmasURt nigBidanmYycMnYn k¾dUcCaviFIsa®sþkñúgkarRClk;BN’FmµCati.

éf¶c½nÞ TI 10 Ex kBaØa qñaM 2007

naykviTüasßanBuTÐsasnbNÐitü

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

RbeTsExµrCaRbeTsmYyEdlmanvb,Fm’ RbéBNI TMenomTmøab;

d¾]tþúg]tþmmYyenAGasuIGaeKñy_ Gs;kald¾yUrNas;mkehIy. y:agNamij

tm,ajKWCasñaédsil,³ sib,kmµExµrmYy EdlmantaMgBIeRkaysm½y

hVÚNn b:uEnþmanGñkRsavRCavxøH)anniyayfa ExµrecHplitsURttaMgBI

munsm½yRbvtþisa®sþeTAeTot. RbCaCatiExµrecHt,ajsURtCaeRcInRbePT

mank,ac;rcnaepSg²BIKñadUcCa el,Ik ERBlat GnøÚj Rkma sarugsURt

cr)ab; suwg hUl pamYg Bidan RbkbedayBN’l¥l¥HEdlcRmaj;ecjBI

rukçCatiCaeRcInmux nigFatupSMCaeRcIneTot. TaMgGs;enHKWsRmab;eRbIR)as;

kñúgkarbiT)aMgragkay nigCaeRKÓglm¥epSg²EdlRbkbeTAedayBN’FmµCati

KYrCaTIKyKn; taMgBIyUryarrhUtdl;sm½ysBVéf¶enH k¾enAEtminsabsUnü

Edr. eyIgeXIjfa tm,ajsURtExµrmaneRcInRbePTmank,ac;rcnaepSg²Kña

ehIysñaédsil,³enH)anbnSl;TukCaPsþútagtamry³rUbcmøak;GbSraEdl

esøóksMBt;Rbkbedayk,ac;rcnay:agl¥viciRt enAelICBa¢aMgR)asaTGgÁrvtþ

nigR)agÁR)asaTCaeRcIneTotenAelITwkdIkm<úCad¾BisidæeyIgenH.

semøókbMBak;RbéBNI EdleFVIGMBIsURtdUcCa hUl pamYg cr)ab; sarug

sURt.l. CasemøókbMBak;RbéBNIExµrtaMgBIbrmburaNmk minfara®sþ

namuWn m®nþI tUc FM RBHmhakSRt suT§EteRbIsemøókbMBak;EdleFVIBIsñaéd

htßBlkmµTaMgenH. eTaHCasm½ybc©úb,nñmansemøókbMBak;TMenIb²naMcUl

BIbreTs b¤ plitkñúgRsukk¾eday k¾kñúgBiFIerobmgÁlkar nigBiFIbuNüRbéBNI

Catinana rYmTaMgBiFIbuNüepSg²enAkñúgRBHbrmraCvaMg hUl pamYg cr)ab;

esckþIepIþm

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bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

enAEtCasemøókbMBak;eBjniymrbs;RbCaCnExµrdEdl. etIsib,kmµtm,aj

sURt nwgkarRClk;BN’FmµCatimandMeNIrkarplity:agdUcemþcxøH? BitEmn

ehIykart,aj hUl pamYg sarugsURt cr)ab; BitCamankarBi)akNas;

TRmaM)ansURtmYysMBt; b¤mYyk,inykmkesøókBak; b¤tubEtgCaeRKÓg

lm¥epSg² enAtamTIkEnøgepSg²EdlerobcMCalkçN³Exµr edIm,ITak;Taj

ePJóveTscrN¾mkBIRbeTsepSg²enaH sib,kreyIgRtUvcMNayminRtwmEt

R)ak;edIm,ITijsURtenaHeT KWEfmTaMgTwkcitþ nigeTBekaslürbs;xøÜneTotpg.

b:uEnþeTaHCamankarlM)aky:agNak¾eday k¾BYkKat;enAEtBüayameFIVkar

y:agp©itp©g;edIm,It,ajplitplTaMgGs;enH.

eyIgsg,wmeCOCak;fa lTæplénkarsikSaRsavRCavBIviFIRClk;BN’

FmµCatienH vamansar³RbeyaCn_bMputkñúgkarCYybgðajKRmUtm,ajburaN

rbs;sib,kreyIg kñúgkart,ajsURt nigkarRClk;BN_FmµCatidl;bgb¥Ún

RbCaBlrdæExµrTUTaMgRbeTsEdlmanbMNgcg;RbkbGaCIvkmµeFVIsURtExµr

CamYynigBN’FmµCati. vaminEmnRKan;EtGacCYydl;GaCIvkmµeFVItm,aj

sURt nigkarRClk;BN’EbbFmµCatiEtb:ueNÑaHenaHeT b:uEnþvaEfmTaMgCa

ÉksarmYy EdlGacCYyrkSaRTRTg;RbéBNITMenomTmøab;kñúgkarrs;enA

rbs;RbCaraRsþExµrCMnan;eRkay²eTAeTot.

10

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11bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

INTRODUCTION

Cambodia is a country in Southeast Asia with a long history of great culture and tradition. Weaving is a Khmer craft that has existed since the Funan period. However, some researchers have said that the Khmer could produce

silk even in the prehistoric period. Khmer people could weave many kinds of silk products with different decorative patterns, such as lboek prealeat, angloung (checkered cloth), krama (scarf), sarong sotr, chorabab, soeung, hol, phamuong, pidan (used in Buddhist ceremonies) in magnificent colors, which were extracted from trees and other materials. [For a long time] people have been using these types of materials for clothes and in decorations because of their glorious natural colors. This craft [weaving] is clearly apparent on the artistic skirts of the Apsara on the walls of Angkor Wat and other temples in the wonderful territory of the Kingdom of Cambodia.

Clothes made from silk include hol, phamuong, chorabab, and sarong sotr, these traditional Khmer clothes have long been used by ordinary people, low and high-ranking officials and the king. Although today there are many modern clothes imported from foreign countries or produced locally, hol, phamuong, and chorabab are still popular in wedding ceremonies, traditional festivals and royal ceremonies.

What are the processes of weaving and natural dyeing? In fact, it is a very hard work to weave hol, phamuong, sarong sotr, chorabab to produce one skirt or one kbin for clothing or Khmer-style decorations for places organized to attract foreign tourists. It costs craftsmen not only money to buy the silk but also mental effort and talent. However hard it is, they work on it with diligence.

We believe that the result of research on natural dyeing is vital proof to show different patterns of silk weaving and natural dyeing to all Khmer people who wish to operate businesses in Khmer silk products made from natural colors. It not only supports silk craftwork and natural dyeing but also serves as a document to preserve Khmer traditions and customs for the next generation.

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bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia12

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1EpñkTIPart 1

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1�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

eyagtamkarsmÖasn_CamYyGñkplit eyIg

)anrkeXIjfa BN’RkhmRtUv)anplitecjBI

{l½xRkm:}. sBVéf¶enH enAkñ úgRbeTskm<úCa

dMeNIkarénkarplitl½xRkm: esÞIrEtGs;eTAehIy

elIkElgEtkñúgextþRkecH enHebItamsmIþelakta

Ca Qn Gayu 80 qñaM rs;enAkñúgPUmi RtBaMgcMbk;

XMusRmas;eBn RsuksMerag extþtaEkv. Kat;)an

plitl½xRkm:Cag 60 qñaMehIy eTaHbICakñúgrbb

b:ul Bt k¾eday. Kat;eTIbEtQb;pli tkñúgqñaM 2005 BIeRBaHsuxPaB

nigkar)at;bg;edImeQIGs;CaeRcInkñúgtMbn;EdlKat;rs;enA. edImeQI

Edlpþl;Tinñpll½xx<s; KWedImRtag/ edImsEgá/ edImkekaH/ edImc½nÞKirICaedIm.

l½xRkm:PaKeRcInEdlRbCaCneRbIsBVéf¶ KWnaMcUlmkBIRbeTsLavRbmaN

10 etan kñúg 1 qñaM.

edIm,ITTYl)anBN’Rkhm eyIgRtUvbMEbkl½xCadMutUc² ehIyeyIg

rm¶as;ry³eBl 2 em:ag bnÞab;mkeyIgeRcaH nigrkSaTukEtTwkBN’Rkhm

sRmab;layCamYyTwksøwkGMBil EdleyIg)anrm¶as;CaeRsc ]TahrN_

RbsinebIeyIgplithUlmYyk,in ¬beNþay 4 Em:Rt TTwg 1 Em:Rt¦ eyIg

RtUvkarl½xRkm: 1 KILÚRkam ¬RbsinebIesIm¦ nigsøwkGMBil 1 KILÚRkam.

karRClk;BN’enH eyIgRtUvkarvtßúFatuedImnImYy²EdlGacplitsarFaturav

cMnYn 2 lIRt kñúgmYymux². KYrkt;smÁal;faCaFmµta Twkm¢ÚrEdlplit

mkBIsøwkGm<ilmanKuNPaBl¥CagEpø.

BN’Rkhm

enHCarUbelakta Ca Qn Gayu 80qñaM

Ta Chea Chhorn, 80 years oldenHCarUbelakta Ca Qn Gayu 80qñaM

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1� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

enHCaedImRtag EdlduHenAkñúgextþtaEkv. kUnstVl½káEdlbegIátCal½xRkm: cUlcitþrs;enAelIedImenH EdleFVI[va

Gacplitl½x)anTinñplx<s;. sBVéf¶minsUvmaneXIjduHeRcIneT kñúgry³eBlEdlRkumRsavRCav)ancuHeTAGegát.

This is Trang tree in Takeo province. It can produce red dye in high percentage. There are not many in the fieldwork observation.

Red Color

Through the interview with the [dye] producers, we learned that the color red was made from a red dye called “leak sramor”. According to Grandfather Chea Chhorn, aged �0, living in Trapeang Cambok village, Samreahpen

commune, Samrong district, Takeo province, in Cambodia, the production of red dye is currently on the verge of extinction, except in Kratie province. He had produced red dye for more than �0 years, even during the Pol Pot regime. He just stopped producing it in 2005 because of health problems and the decrease of trees around his area. Trees that give high color output are trang (Ficus altissima Blume), sangke (Combretam quadrangulare Kurz), kakoh (Sindora Siamensis Teijsmex), chankiri (Albizia Saman)…etc. Most red dye used today, approximately 10 tonnes per year, is imported from Laos.

To get color for red dye, we need to break it into small pieces then decoct it for two hours. After that we decant it and retain only the red liquid and mix it with water from decocted tamarind leaves. For example, if we are producing hol for one kbin (� meters long and 1 meter width) we need one or one and a half kilograms of red dye (if it is wet) and one kilogram of tamarind leaves. These materials will produce two liters of liquid dye each. It should be noted that traditionally sour liquid abstracted from tamarind leaves is of better quality than that of the liquid abstracted from tamarind fruits.

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1�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

enHCaedImsEgá EdlmanduHeRcInenAtamtMbn;CnbT.

Sangke Tree which are frequently seen in rural areal½xRkm:EdleKdak;kñúg)av

Red dye kept in sack

søwkGm<ilEdl)anes¶ar

Boiled Tamarind leaves

edImGm<il ¬søwk nigEpø¦

Tamarind tree (leaves and fruits)

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1� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

sURtesImRtUv)anRClk;BN’Rkhmedaye)ak niges¶arkñúgTwkenaH

cMnYn 10 naTI. eyIgRtUvEte)akvay:agticNas;R)aMbIdMNak;kaldIm,I[

BN’cUlRKb;sréssURt. mYydMNak;kalesµInwg 120 dg.

enAkñúgdMNak;kalenHBN’eyIgTTYl)anRkhmRsal b¤BN’páaQUk.

BN’RkhmnwgelceLIgkan;Etc,as;bnÞab;BIeyIg)anRClk;BN’elOg.

Wet silk was dyed in red liquid by beating and boiling it in the liquid for ten minutes. We have to beat it at least eight times to allow each thread of the silk to absorb the color. Each stage equals one hundred and twenty beats.

At this stage, the color we get is light red or pink. The red color will show clearly after we put it in a yellow-colored dye.

Twkl½xRkm:

Red dye liquidkareRcaHykEtTwkl½x

Decanting the red dye liquid

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

kareFVI[BN’RkhmRCabcUleTARKb;sréssURt

Beating allows each thread of the silk to absord the red color.kares¶arKaFeFVI[BN’kan;EtRCabsBVl¥

Boiling silk

karRClk;BN’KaF¬sURt¦

Dyeing silk

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20 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’Rkhm Red Color

1 2 3

54

76

8

Twkm¢Úr

(Sour liquid)

bnÞHduMeQI

(Wooden board)

Twkl½x

(Red dry liquid)

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21bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’elOg

edImeQIeQµaHfaRBhUt CavtßúFatuedImd¾sMxan;edIm,IbegáItBN’elOg.

edImenaHGacrk)anenAtamtMbn;x<g;rabRbeTskm<úCa. eKciRBa©aMsm,kvaCa

duMtUc² nigrm¶as;RbmaNknøHem:ag. bnÞab;mkeyIgeRcaHvaykEtTwkBN’

elOg layCamYyemSAsaCUrcMnYnmYyryRkam EdlnaM[TwkenaHvanwg

bgðajBN’elOgRsal.

Twkk,úgRtUv)anplitBIepHsMbkEpøeck KWmanKuNPaBl¥RbesIrCag

epHedImsEgá b¤k¾edImeQIepSgeTot. epHsm,keck 1 KILÚRkam Gacplit

Twkk,úg)an 6 lIRt ¬eRcaHrYcral;¦. enAkñúgcMNuHenH eyIgEckCabIEpñk

ehIyBIrEpñk RtUv)anrkSaTuksRmab;karlagsURt b¤ÉEpñkEdlenAsl;

TuksRmab;RtaMRKab;Cm<Ú.

Twkk,úgGacplitBIrukçCatiCaeRcIndUcCa pÞIbnøa sm,kEpøK b¤ rukçCatiFmµta

EtminsUvmanKuNPaBl¥.

RbsinebIeyIgcg;TTYlBN’elOgcas; eyIgRtUvkarbEnßmBN’BIRKab;

Cm<ÚEdlGacrkTij)ankñúgTIpSar ehIyeyIgeRbIR)as;vacMnYn 150 Rkam

sRmab;hUl 1 k,in.

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22 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Yellow Color

A tree named prahout (Gareinia Vilersiana Pierre) is the main raw material to produce a yellow color. This tree can be found in the highlands of Cambodia. Its bark is chopped into small pieces and decocted for half an hour. Then we

decant only the yellow liquid and mix it with powdered alum (100 grams), which converts the liquid to a light yellow.

Potash water was produced from banana skin ash, which is better than from sangke tree ash or from other plants. One kilogram of banana ash can produce six liters of potash water (after decanting). We divide this volume into three parts and two of them are kept for washing silk and the rest for soaking with annatto grain.

Potash water can be produced from phti (Amaranthus spinosus L.) or other plants, but it is of low quality.

sm,kRBhUteRkom

The dried bark of Prahout tree

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23bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

karbMEbkduMl½xRkm: nigci®Ba©aM

sm,kRBhUtedIm,Idak;es¶ar

Breaking red dye and chopping bark of Prahout

kares¶arsm,kRBhUt

Boiling bark of Prahout

eyIgx©b;RKab;enHeTAkñúgkEnSgrYcykeTARtaM ehIy nigdusvaenAkñúgTwk

k,úg 2 lIRt bnÞab;mkeyIge)aksURttamFmµta. eRkaymkeTot

eyIges¶arsURt CamYyTwkRBhUt 15 naTIenaHsURtnwgmanBN’elOgcas;

CaBuMxan.

enHCasøwk Epø nigEmkRBhUt

Leaves, fruits and branches of Prahout

TwkRBhUteRkayeBllay

CamYyemSAsaCUr

Prahout liquid after mixed with aluminum powder

karlagKaFCamYyTwkk,úg

Washing silk with potash water

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

If we want to get a dark yellow color, we need to add color from annatto grains (Bixa orellana), which can be bought in markets. We use one hundred and fifty grams for one kbin of hol. We pack the grains in the scarf, soak and rub them in the remaining two liters of potash water. Then we beat the silk as normal. After that we boil the silk with prahout water for fifteen minutes. The silk will become a dark yellow.

edImCm<Ú

Annatto treeRKab;Cm<Ú

Annatto grains

karRtaMRKab;Cm<ÚkñúgTwkk,úg

Annatto grain in potash waterkarRClk;KaFkñúgTwkk,úgBN’elOg

Dyeing silk in yellow potash waterkares¶arsURtkñúgTwkRBhUt

Boiling silk in Prahout liquid

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2�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’elOg Yellow Color

1 2 3

45

6 7

98

mnusSGgÁúyciRBa©aMsMbk

Chopping bark of Prahout

saCUr

Alum powder

TwkRBhUt

Prahout liquid

mnusuSQre)akKaF

Weaver is standing to beat Kiedh

RKab;Cm<ÚBN’

Annatto grain

ebIcg;)anBN’elOgTuM

If we want to get dark yellow:

Twkk,úg

Potash water

KaFes¶arCamYyTwkRBhUt

Kiedh is boiling with prahout liquid

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2� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’exov

sBVéf¶enHkarplitBN’exov KWCakarBi)akmYyCagBN’epSgeTot

BIeRBaHbnÞab;BIrbb b:ul Bt mnusSEdldwgBIrbobplitsøab;esÞIrEtGs;

eTAehIy. krNIepSgeTotmkBI\T§iBlénsaklPavUbnIykmµCarYmEdl

mann½yfaBN’exovEdlplitBIFatuKImIgayRsYlEsVgrkkñúgTIpSar ehIy

efakCag. dUecñHkareRbIplitplsURt b¤GMe)aHBN’exovBIBN’FmµCati

mankarfycuHy:agelOn ehIyesÞIrEtputrlt;Gs;eTAehIy. tamry³

viFIsa®sþcas; eyIgRKan;EtGaceFVI)anBN’RsedogEtb:ueNÑaH.

CaRbéBNIeyIgeRbIR)as;edImRtuM EdlGacrk)anenAkñúgPUmi b¤k¾daMva.

eyIgGaceRbIR)as;søwkRtuM edaybukva ehIyBUtykTwkBN’ébtg b¤RtaM

søwkRtuMRss;BIryb; bnÞab;mkRClk;nwgsURt. KuNPaBplittamviFIenH

minsUvl¥ BIeRBaHBN’nwgehIrenAkñúgeBlxøIxagmux.

dUecñH eyIgRtUvkarplitFøH. eyIgRtaMedImRtuMkñúgTwk1yb; bnÞab;mk

eyIgykedImRtuMecj TukEtkaksMNl; nigTwkEdlmankøinGaRkk;. eyIg

bEnßmkMe)arelos nigsáretñatCaerogral;éf¶ry³eBl 1 GaTitü b¤yUr

CagenH. sarFaturavenHeKehAfaFøH EdleKGacRClk;BN’sURt b¤GMe)aH

)an. kalBImunkñúgdMbn; b¤PUmimYy RKYsarnImYy²manCMnajerog²xøÜn.

RKYsarxøHGacCaGñkt,aj CaCageQI nigGñkepSgeTot GacCaGñk

RClk;BN’. dMeNIrkarplitFøHenH BImuny:agehacNas;k¾eRbIry³eBl

1 s)þah_ edIm,IeFVI[rYcral;.

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2�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Blue Color

edImRtMu

Trom treesøwk Epø nigRKab;RtMu

Leaves, fruits and grains of Trom tree

Today producing blue color is harder than other colors because since the Pol Pot regime, most of the people who knew how to produce it have died. Other causes are the impact of globalization, which means the blue color is

made from chemical substances, which are easy to find in the market and cheaper. Therefore, the use of natural blue color for silk or cotton clothes is decreasing rapidly and almost becoming extinct. It is only through the old methods that we can make a similar color.

Traditionally we use trom tree (Indigofera tinetoria), which can be found in the villages or by planting it. We can use trom’s leaves by pounding and wringing out the green liquid or soaking the fresh leaves for two nights then dyeing the silk. The quality of this color is not good because the color will quickly fade.

So, we need to produce dhlah. We soak the trom tree for one night then take the tree and keep only the residue and the bad smelling water. Then we add shell limestone and palm sugar every day for one week. This liquid is called dhlah and can be used to dye silk or cotton. In the past, in one region or village, each family had its own specialties. The family could have the weaver, the carpenter and the dyer. The previous production method takes at least one week to complete.

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2� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

kñúgkrNIRtUvkarRbjab;BYkeKRtUvEtplit mr EdlCaEpñkmYyén

FøHxab; b¤CaFmµta eyIgehAfaemFøH. sarFatuxab;enH GacrkSa)anyUr

edIm,IlayCamYyFøHfµI nigGacRClk;BN’)anqab;.

Hence, in urgent cases, they have to produce mor, which is a part of thick dhlah. This thick liquid can be kept for a long time to mix with new dhlah and is a quick material for dyeing.

mr enAkñúgextþtaEkv

Mor in Takeo provinceFøHenApÞHelak sYg m‘íc kñúgextþtaEkv

Dhlah at Mr. Suong Mich’s house

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2�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’exov Blue Color

1

2 3

RtaM 2yb;

Soak two nightskMe)arlas

Shell lime stone

Bagdak; mr

Mor

kMe)arlas

Shell lime stone+

BagFøH

Jar to keep Dhlah

edImRtMu

Trom tree

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30 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’enH KWRtUv)aneKcMraj;ykecjBIsm,kedImGMBilTwk nigedImq½Rt.

eyIgbkyksm,kedImeQITaMgBIrenH 2 KILÚRkam énedImeQInImYy²

bnÞab;mkeyIges¶arva 2 em:ag. eyIgeRcaHykEtTwk nigrkSasItuNðPaB

rbs;vaenAFmµta bnÞab;mkeyIgGacRClk;sURt ehIyes¶arsURtmþgeTot

CamYyTwkenH. eRkaymkeyIge)aksURtCamYyTwksµIn ehIyhal

sm¶ÜtvaenAkñúgmøb; nigxül; eyIgGacTTYl)ansURtBN’exµAsRmab;t,aj.

TwksµIn KWCalT§plénRbtikmµrvagEdkeRcH 1 KILÚRkam sáretñat

mYyKILÚRkam RkUcqµar 30Epø nigTwk 30 lIRt. sRmab;RkUcqµar eyIgRtUvkar

han;CacMNitesþIg². Caerogral;éf¶ eyIgRtUvbEnßmcMNitRkUcqµarCalMdab;

edIm,ITTYl)anKuNPaBl¥RbesIrénTwkenH. eyIgrkSaTukvtßúFatuedImTaMgenH

enAkñúgBagFMmYy nigeRkamBnøWRBHGaTitüBIcMnYn 5 éf¶ eTAmYys)þah½.

kñúgkrNIxøHeyIgGaces¶arcMNittUc² énedImKUElnCamYynwgEdk

ry³eBl 2 em:ag ehIyeyIgGacRClk;sURt)an. eFVIrebobenHeyIg

EfmTaMgTTYl)anBN’exµAeTotpg.

eRkAGMBIrukçCatiEdl)anerobrab;xagelI KWenAmanrukçCatiepSg²eTot

EdleK GacykmkcRmaj;ykBN’)andUcCa³

- dUg¬RskI¦BN’dUcRskIdUg

- xñúr BN’elOgtic²

- nenag BN’exovx©I

- eBaF× nigesþA BN’elOgcas;CaedIm.

BN’exµA

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31bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Black Color

This color was extracted from ampil toek (Tamarind water tree) and chatra tree. We strip two kilograms of the barks from each of the two trees, and then boil them for two hours. We decant only the water and keep it until it lowers to a normal temperature. Next, we can dye the silk. After that, we boil the silk again with this water. Then we wash the silk with smin water and dry it in shade and wind, so we can get black silk for weaving.

Smin water is the result of a reaction between one kilogram of rusty iron, one kilo-gram of sugar palm, thirty lemons and thirty liters of water. We need to slice the lemon before using it. Every day we have to add a small piece of a lemon in order to improve the quality of the water. We keep these materials in a big jar and leave them in the sunlight for five days to one week.

In some cases, we can boil sliced litchi tree (Litchi chinensis sonn) with iron for two hours and we can dye the silk. This also gives a black color.

Beside the plants we introduced above, some other plants that people could abstract colors from include:

- Coconut- Jackfruit- Nornong (Luffa acutan gula -(L.) Roxb.)- Po and sdaov (Aglaia- leptantha Miq)

edImGm<ilTwk

Ampil toek tree (Tamarind water tree)

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32 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BagFMsRmab;dak;TwksµIn enAeRkamkMedARBHGaTitü

Big jar to keep Smin water under sun lightcMNitedImKUeln nigEdkeKal

Sliced Litchi tree and iron

TwksµIn

Smin water

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33bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

BN’exµA Black Color

1

3

2

sMbkedImGm<ilTwk

Bark of Tamarind water tree

sMbkedImq½Rt

Bark of Chatr tree

eRcaH

Decanting

es¶ar

Boiling

BagTwksµIn

Jar to keep Smin water

eRcHEdk

Rusty iron

RkUcqµa

Lemon

Twk 30lIRt

30 litres of water

sáretñat 1 KRk

1 kg of Palm Sugar

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bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia3�

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2EpñkTIPart 2

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3�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

hUl

KaFKWCasMNuMsURtEdleKcgsRmab;ykeTARClk;BN’ EdlPasa

Gg;eKøs mann½yfa GuIxat;. Rtg;enHExµrmanlkçN³Biessrbs;xøÜnmYy.

KaFssuT§ CadMbUgeK RtUvRClk;nwgBN’Rkhm bnÞab;mkeKkat;cMNgBN’

RkhmenH rYcehIyeKRClk;nwgBN’elOg nwgbnþbnÞab;KWBN’exov.

cMNgKaF ³ kalBImuneyIgeRbIExSEdlplitBIRsTbeckCVa Edl

BuMTan;ecjEpø. eKeRcókRsTbeckenaH rYchaléf¶[RsBab;eTIbGac

cg)an. sBVéf¶ExSEdleFVIBInILúgRtUv)aneKykmkCMnYs eRBaHEtkgVHxat

edImeckRbePTenH. m:üagmkBICMenORbCaCnExµreyIg Edlhammin[daM

enAEk,rpÞH. elIkElgEtenAkñúgGgÁkarxøHdUcCa viTüasßanvaynP½NÐ

RbéBNIExµr EdlmanTItaMgkñúgextþesomrabCaedImKWenAeRbIR)as;enAeLIy.

kñúgRbéBNIExµrmank,ac;eKamhUleRcInNas; EdlekIteLIgBIKMnit

écñRbDitepSg² BIk,ac;eKamburaNrbs;sib,kreyIgBImYyCMnan;eTAmYyCMnan;.

tamkar[dwgBIGñktm,ajcas;²)an[dwgfa kñúgkareFVIhUlmYyk,in eKRtUvkar

ry³eBlyUrNas; KWy:agticbIEx eRBaHBYkKat;RtUvciBa©wmdgáÚvnagedIm,I

plitsURt RClk;BN’ nigt,ajedayxøÜnÉg. KYrkt;smÁal;fa k,ac;eKam

hUlBIburaNmanlkçN³FM²CagsBVéf¶dUcCa k,ac;eKamFM eKamxøwmc½nÞ

eKamExSrBIrCan; eKamEPñkeKaCaedIm.

kart,ajhUlTamTar[mankarBüayamx<s;. Gñkt,ajRtUvecH

tRmwmsréssURtedIm,I[elcecjCarUmeKamRtg; nigs¥atl¥.

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3� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Hol

Kiedh is a skein of silk which weavers tie for dyeing, in English called ikat. Khmer weavers have their own special technique to do that. White kiedh was first dyed with red, as I explained in Part 1, then with yellow

and lastly with blue.

To tie the kiedh, we use young banana sheath, but today it has been replaced by nylon. There are some organizations still preserving this technique, for example the Institute for Traditional Khmer Textile located in Siem Reap. According to Khmer superstition, people believe this kind of banana tree cannot be planted near their houses.

There are many patterns of hol in Khmer tradition, which were created by weaver from generation to generation. Through the interviews with old weaver, we found that in the past, to produce one kbin of hol, they had to spend at least three months to complete the work. This takes a long time because they need to feed cocoons to produce silk, dye and weave it by themselves. It should be noted that previous patterns were bigger than those of today, such as phnek Ko (cow eyes), khlim chan, double lines…etc.

To get a high quality of hol, the weaver needs to have rich experience and diligence, and take great care.

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3�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

karcgKaFedayExSeckmun nwgykeTARClk;BN’

Tieing Khiedh before dyeingkarkat;cMNgKaFelIkTImYyedIm,IRClk;BN’elOgCabnþ

Cutting Khiedh tie then dye with yellow color

sURtEdleKrévcUlxñal;rYcbRmugnwgt,aj

Silk ready for weavingeKamEPñkeKamkBIextþtaEkv

Kom (Lantern) Phnek Ko (cow eyes) from Takeo

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�0 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

eKamkUnhg;

Kom Kon HangeKampáaraMg

Kom Phka RaingeKampáaQUkr½tñ

Kom Phka Chhouk Roat

eKampáamøiH

Kom Phka Mlis

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41bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Gñktm,ajsURtenARsuk)aTIextþtaEkv

Hol weaver in Bati district, Takeo province

eKamk,ÚgeBRCCasñaédrbs;elak

Egt em:g extþtaEkv

Kom tbong pich, Mr. Nget meng’s work, Takeo

eKamExSGRgwg

Kom Khse Angring

eKamcMNitcahYymkBIXuMERBkc®gáan

Kom Chamnit Chahuoy from Prek Changkran Commune

eKamkUnhuIg

Kom Kon hing

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�2 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

pamYg

CaRbePTmYyénsMBt;ExµreyIg ehIymaneRcInBN’eTAtamtRmUvkar.

pamYgPaKeRcInKWmanBN’EtmYy. eyIgenAcaM)anfakalBIb:unµanqñaMmun

pamYgkTa mann½yfa BN’dUckénstVTamankareBjniymxøaMgNas;kñúg

cMeNamGñkeRbIR)as;.

tamFmµtaeKt,ajpamYgedayeRbIfárcMnYn 3 y:agtic EtGaceRcIn

CagenH kñúgkrNIEdlplitkrcg;rcnabEnßmnUv CreCIg páa b¤k,ac;epSg².

enAekaHdac;mant,aj rhUtdl;fárcMnYn 30. pamYgenHeK[eQµaHfa

pamYgt,ÚgeBRC EdlkMBugEtmanPaBl,Il,aj.

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43bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Phamuong

Phamuong is a kind of Khmer weaving product that has many colors, as required by users, but generally has only one color per piece. We remember that recently Phamuong Kor Tea (the color is similar to the color of a duck’s

neck) has been very well known.

Weavers use at least three thkor or more if that phamuong has a pattern or hem decoration. In Koh Dach, weavers use up to 30 thkor for the one called phamuong tbong pich (diamond phamuong), which has now become popular.

Gñktm,ajhUl nigpamYgenAXuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg

Weaver in Prek Changkran commune, Sithor Kandal district, Prey Veng province

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�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

pamYgCreCIgk,ac;GgÁr

Hem of Phamuong, Angkor pattern

pamYgCreCIgk,ac;bnÞayRsI

Hem of Phamuong, Banteay Srey pattern

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4�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

TaMgenHCaBN’ nigk,ac;epSg²én

pamYgt,ÚgeBRC

These are different colors and pattern of Phamoung Tbong Pic

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�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

cr)ab;

tamkarGegátsBVéf¶ tMbn;EdlenAplitcr)ab;enHKWenAkñúg XuM

ERBklYg RsukxSac;kNþal extþkNþal. eKeRbIR)as;cr)ab;KWsRmab;

kat;semøókbMBak;RbéBNIkñúgmgÁlkar nigBiFImgÁlepSg². rebobén

kart,ajcr)ab;enH KWRbEhlnwgkart,ajpamYg b¤hUlEdr. cr)ab;man

k,ac;páaepSg² dUcCa páafáúl páaknÞÜt páac½nÞ t,ÚgeBRC CaedIm.

manRbePTsMBt;EdlgayRcLMnwgcrr)ab;KWel,Ik. el,IkxusBIcr)ab;

Rtg;kñúgcr)ab; páaEdleKBenøceLIgKWeKeRbIEssy Éel,IkvijeKBenøc

edayeRbIsURt. cr)ab; manfáreRcInEdlGñkt,ajxøH)anR)ab;eyIgfa

manrhUtdl;eTA 60 fár.

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4�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Chorabab

Nowadays, chorabab is only produced in Khsach Kandal district, Kandal Province. People use chorabab in wedding and blessing ceremonies. The way to produce chorabab is similar to how to make hol and phamuong.

There are a few popular patterns such as kantuot flower, chan flower, and diamond. There is a kind of cloth similar to chorabab called lboek. Lboek is different from chorabab because chorabab uses sesoy to show up the pattern or flowers, but lboek uses silk instead. Weavers use a lot of thkor to produce chorabab; in some case they use sixty thkor.

cr)ab;páac½nÞ

Corabab Phka Chan

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�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

sarugsURt

sar ugsURtCasMBt ;m YyRbePTEdlCnCat iEx µr\søamn iym

cUlcitþeRbI nigesøókBak; cUlrYmkñugBiFIFM²eTotpg. FmµtasarugsURt

minmank,ac; b¤eKamGVIsµúRKsµajeT tamry³kart,ajknøgmk. sarugsURt

maneKamduMGacm_CVa EdlmanPaBl,IKYrsm nigsarugsURtsCaedIm.

eKam duMGacmn_CVa sarug mkBIERBkc®gáan

Kom Dom Ach Jvea from Prek Changkran

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4�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Sarong Sotr

Khmer Muslims like to use and wear it not only at home but also in big ceremonies. The pattern of sarong is not complicated and has a few models like dom ach cvea, which is quite well-known and sarong sotr.

Gñktm,aj sarugenAPUmi ekagTenø Rsuk ekaHsUTin

Weaver in Koang Tole village, Koh Sotin District

sarugsURts

White sarong

sarugsURtBN’elOg

Yellow Sarong Sotr

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50 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

RkmasURt

RkmasURteRbIsRmab;bg;cUlrYmkñúgBiFIepSg². CaTUeTARbCaCn

km<úCamanRkmaeRbIR)as;y:agehacNas;mYy EdlesÞIrEtTaMgGs;eFVIBI

GMe)aHsuT§ b¤GMe)aHlaysURt. kareRbIR)as;RkmaCaTmøab;mYyén

RbCaCneyIg. kart,ajRkma nigsarugsURt eKeRbIEtfárBIr nigelOn

Cagkart,ajhUl b¤cr)ab;.

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�1bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Scarf

Every person has at least one scarf (krama). We mostly use scarves made from cotton and cotton-silk (more expensive). It is a part of Khmer tradition.

RkmasURtmkBIextþtaEkv

Krama from Takeo province

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52 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Bidan nigrnaMg

BidanRtUv)aneKeRbIsRmab;EtkñúgBiFIsasna. eKamEdlmanenAelI

Bidanman niyayerobrab;BIBuT§Rbvtþi FmµCati páa stVhgS rUbRsIGbSra

CaedIm.

viFIsa®sþénkareFVIBidan KWesÞIrEtdUcKñaTaMgRsugeTAnwgkareFVIhUl

eRBaHeKRtUvyksURtmkcgKaF nwgRClk;BN’dUcKñaeTAnwgdMNak;kal

TaMgLayénkareFVIhUl. sBVéf¶ BidanmaneFVIenAkñúgRsuk)aTI extþtaEkv.

BidanmanrUbnaKmkBIextþesomrab

Picture of naga from Siem ReapBidanrUbR)asaTenHmandak;taMgenAGgÁkarKaMBarkumarExµextþtaEkv

Pidan at CYK, Bati district, Takeo province

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�3bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

Pidan and Roneang

This is used only in Buddhist ceremonies. The pattern on pidan illustrates the life of Buddha, nature, flowers, animals and Apsara.

The way to produce pidan or roneang is almost the same as the way we make hol because the silk has to be tied and dyed. It is currently only produced in Bati district, Takeo province.

BidanniyayGMBIkarecjeTAbYsrbs;RBHBuT§enHmandak;taMgenAGgÁkarKaMBarkumarExµr extþtaEkv

Pidan at CYK, Bati district, Takeo province

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bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia5�

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��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

bBa¢IBakübec©keTssMrab;rukçCatidkRsg;ecjBIvcnanuRkmrukçCatieRbIR)as;kñúgRbeTskm<úCa1

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

11

sEgá combretum quadrangulare Kurz

eQµaHculøRBwkSmYyRbePTkMBs; 2 eTA

10 m duHkñúgéRBel,aH TIvaltammat;Twk

mankñúg ]bTVIb\NÐÚcin ¬RbeTséf PUma

km<úCa lav evotNam¦. søwksEgáeKdak;

eRkamBUk b¤ kenÞl[s¶Ütrabl¥sRmab;

mUrfñaMCk;. l½xl¥ elx1 sRmab;RClk;

sURtekItelIedImsEgáenHÉg edaystV

m:üageQµaH Carteria lacca . RKUeBTühµburaN

eRbIEpøsEgá sRmab;[Føak;RBUn. sMbkpSM

CamYyfñaMepSg²eTot eKeRbIBüa)aldMe)A

Xøg;. eBTüstVeRbIsMbkCafñaM kmøaMgeKa

nig esH.

Shrub, 2-10 m tall, of secondary formations and deforested places, common along the rivers, species met in the Indochinese Peninsula (Thailand, Burma, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam). The leaves, dried and well spread under mattes or mats, are used as cigarette paper. The plant may host lacquer insects (Carteria lacca), which make the lacquer-gum, natural dye for the silk. In traditional medicine, the fruits of (sângkaé) are used to remove ascaris. The bark is part of an ointment used to bandage the leperous ulcerations. The veterinary uses it as tonic for the oxen and the horses.

1GñkRKU DI pun e)aHBum< qñaM 2000

Listing of Technical word for plants Cited from planting Dictionary used in Cambodia

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5� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

22

kekaH Sindora siam- ensis Teijsm. ex Miq var. siamensis

RBwkSmYyBYkkMBs; 6-10 m duHkñúg

éRBeRsag CamYysnþanxøúg Et,g nig

éRBel,aHén]bTVIb \NÐÚcin nig CVa.

EpøGacbriePaK)an eBlxøHeKsuICamYy

søamøÚ. eKGaclIgRKab;daMTwkpwk dUcEt

b¤eFVIcMNIepSg² eQIkekaHmantMélNas;

sRmab;eFVIeRKÓgpÞHdUcCakþar rnUt srsr.

sMNl;eQI GaceRbIeFVICaFüÚg)an. sMbk

sRmab;eFVIfñaM RClk;sMNaj;.

Tree, �-10 m tall, of the clear Dipterocarpus forests and secondary formations of the Indochinese and Malay Peninsula. The fruits are edible and chewed sometimes with the betel. The roasted seeds are used to make a tea like drink and is part of some desserts. Wood, graded its category, in demand for the constructions where it gives excellent floors, beams and columns. The by products of wood give a good coal. The bark is used to dyeing fishing nets.

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��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

33

RtMu Indigofera tinctorial Kum<RBwkStUcmYyRbePTkMBs; 50 eTA

60 s>m GacduHÉg²kñúgéRBeRsag b¤dI

valén\NÐÚcin eKeRcIndaMCadMNaM. søwkva

sRmab;RClk;sMBt;[ manBN’exµAsVay

tic² b¤exµA. RKUburaNExµreRbI b¤sRtuMeFVI

fñaMsÞHenam nigfñaMBüa)alCm¶WRbemH.

Sub-shrub, 50-�0 cm tall, subspont-aneouse in the open formations and on the waste grounds of Indochina. The leaves supply a purple black dye. The roots are used in tradi-tional Cambodian medicine against urinary retention and gonorrhea.

4�

Gm<ilTwk Pithecellobium dulce (Roxb.) Benth.

eQµaH eQItUcmYyRbePTkMBs; 6 eTA

10 m kMeNItkñúgTVIbGaemrickNþal eKnaM

mkdaMenARbeTsekþAénsklelak. eKeRcIn

daMeFVICarbgrs;. sac;Epørs;ct;lµmbriePaK.

eQIedImcas;² GaceRbIeFVICaeRKÓgpÞH)an.

sMbkGaceFVIfñaMrm¶ab;eraK. søwkcas;²man

rs;CatimYydUc Insuline ¬fñaMTwkenamEp¥m¦.

Small tree, �-10 m tall, originating from Central America, naturalized in all the tropical regions of the world, Species planted especially around houses to make quickset hedges. The arillus which wraps the seed is edible, eaten generally by the children, Wood of old trees may be used in construction. The colouring bark is used in traditional medicine. The old leaves contain a principle similar to the insulin.

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5� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

55

KUEln Litchi chinensis Sonn.

eQµaHRBwkSmYyRbePTkMBs; 8 eTA

10 m duH enARbeTscinxagt,Úg nig evotNam

xageCIg BUkCVa naMmkdaMCayUrNas;mkehIy

KW 15 stvtSmun K>s. enARbeTsExµr

eKeXIjedImKUElnduHÉg² EtelIPñ M

KUElneT. eKEtgdaMsRmab;ykEpøCa

Gahar EpøRss;manCIvCati A nig B

CaeRcIn EtEpøeRKómKµanCIvCatienHeT.

Epøx©IeKeRbIeFVIfñaMGutFM. RKab;CafñaMeBaHevon.

RKYfñaMburaN es¶arpáa sMbk nig b¤sKUEln

Büa)alCm¶WbMBg;k.

Tree, �-10 m tall, originating from Southern China and Northern Vietnam introduced for cultivation in Malaysia towards 1500 B.C. In Cambodia, it is found in the spontaneous state on Phnom Kulen. Tree cultivated for its almost free arillus fruit. The fresh fruits are rich in A and B vitamins not found in dried fruits. The seed is used in traditional medicine against intestinal diseases. The green fruit is used against the smallpox. The decoctions of the flowers, barks and roots would be effective against the diseases of the throat.

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��bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

6�

eck Musal eckEdlCadMNaMCaBUCbgáat;eRcIn

tMNNas; ehIyeyIgBuMGac[eQµaH

viTüasa®sþ)aneLIy. BUCEdlduHkñúgéRB

manEpøkñúgRKab;CaeRcIn briePaKmin)aneT

manduHenAGasuIEpñkGaeKñy_ kñúgRbeTs

\NÐaxagekIt elIekaHsUm:aRta elIekaH

y:av:a. enARbeTsExµrmaneckBUCbgáat;

eRcInNas; eckNaMva eckBgman; eck

sñab;mux eckCVa.l. eckCVa manRKab;

EtbriePaK)an. edImecknigKl;eKeRcIn

eRbICacMNIRCUk EtmnusSk¾briePaK

)anEdr. páa¬RtyUgeck¦ eRbIeFVIbEnø

b¤Gnøk;.l.

All the cultivated banana trees are hybrids repeated natural crossings the parents of which became not recognizable The first wild banana trees, with fruits full of seeds, are numerous. The main of these are Musa acuminata Colla, born somewhere in Southeast Asia, Musa balbi siana Colla, born, in the oriental part of India the Musa halabanensis Meijer, born in the western part of Sumatra and Musa salaccensis Zoll. native either of Sumatra or Java.

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�0 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

In Cambodia there is a very large number of cultivated species “chék nam’va” “chék pong moën” (hen’s egg banana tree) “chék âmbông” ”chék nuon” chék snab muk chék chhvie (Malay banana tree) This last one has fruits still provided with seeds but edible while those of the wild banana trees are not.

The leaves of banana trees are used as packaging to wrap goods various cakes, rice etc. The trunk is edible as well as the tree stumps At normal time, they are used to feed pigs The young inflorescences “trâyông chék” freed of their large coloured bracts, are much valued as vegetables.

77

Gm<il)araMg Albizia saman (Jack) F.Muell

Gm<il)araMgCarukçCatimanedImkMeNIt

kñúgRsuk GaemrikekþA. eKdaMenARsuk

GaRhVic nig GasuICa lMGtampøÚv b¤sRmab;

møb;RCkCitpÞH. søwkx©I² GaceFVIGnøk;eBl

TurÖwkS. Epøk¾briePaK)anEdr.

Rain tree has its origin in tropical America cultivated in Asia and Africa as ornamental and as shade tree In time of shortage the young leaves has been eaten in salads The fruit is edible

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61bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

8�

xñúr Artocarpus heterophyllus Lam.

xñúr CaedImeQItUcmanedImkMeNItenA

RbeTsCVa eKEtgdaMrukçCatienHBaseBj

RbeTsGasuIEpñkekþA. EpøxñúrmanrsCati

q¶aj;Nas;. mandak;lk;kñúgpSar RsukExµr

eKlk;EpøTaMgmUl b¤citCacMNit. enA

breTsmansac;xñúrlk;CaGaharRbGb;.

edImxñúr eKykeFVI tu TU nig eRKÓgePøg.

Small tree native to Malaya cultivated everywhere in the tropic for its edible fruits which may be sold on markets fresh or in preserve. Seeds rich in fecule are edible boiled or fired. Jack wood is used for furniture and for manufacture of music instruments.

99

es<A Aglaia leptantha Mig esþAPñMCaedImeQIkMBs;BI 20-30 m

eRcInduHelI PñMkñúgRbeTsExµr nig evotNam

xagt,Úg. søwk nigpáax©IGacbriePaK)andUc

esþAFmµtaEdr. eQIBN’ Rkhmmankøin

RkGUb lk;)antMélNas;. eKeRbIeQI

esþAPñMCMnYs c½nÞRKWsña)anxøH². RKUfñaM

yksMbk eTAes¶aredIm,I[GñkmanCMgWRKun

pwk. eBTüstV es¶arsMbk[eKa RkbIpwk

edIm,I[vasuIesµA)aneRcInqab;Fat;FM.

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�2 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

Tree, 20-35 m tall restricted to mountain forest in Cambodia and in south-Vietnam Yong leaves and flowers are eaten in salads, like that of the genuine “Sdau” (Azadiracta indica) Red wood , fragrant used as incense like the genuine santal wood In local medi-cine the bark decoction is drunk against fever The same decoction given to oxes or buffaloes may increase their appetite.

1010

dUg Cocos nuciferal. eQµaHRBwkSm:üagsnþan søa etñat

kMBs; 2-30 m manedImkMeNItkñúgTVIb

GasuIeKsÁal;dUgCit 4 Ban;qñaMehIyenA

RbeTscin ¬kñúgkMNaBücinmYy eKeXIj

maneQµaHdUg kMNaBüsresrRbEhl

2 Ban;qñaMmunRBHeys‘U¦. dUgmaneRcIn

RbeTsNas; EteQñaHviTüasa®sþenA

dEdlmandUgePø Ig dUgtwkEk dUgxÞ iH

dUgsmø.l. edImdUgRbeyaCn_Nas;

sø wksRmab;eFV Id Mb UlpÞHb¤sg;erageFV I

buNü.l. páadUg eBlxøHeKeRbI

CMnYspáasøa kñúgBiFIGaBah_BiBah_. EpøeK

eRbI)aneRcInRbePTNas; TwkdUgCaePsC¢³

l¥Nas; sac;dUgx©IeKbriePaKCamYyTwk

sac;cas;Rc)ac;ykxÞiHsø eFVIbEg¥mepSg²

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63bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

b¤es¶ar eFVIeRbg. RskIdUgeKEtgykeFVI

GMe)as. eBTüburaNeRbIb¤sdUg sRmab;

pSMfñaMBüa)alCm¶WraKmYl. RteLakdUg

eKdutkñúgepHekþA[ecjC½r C½renHeRbIsRmab;

lab[)at;QWeFµj.

Tree, 2-30 m tall, monocaulous, of Asian origin, cultivated at present in the warm countries of the world. It appeared some �000 year ago (the1st mention of a coconut palm in China is found in a Chinese poem of the 20th century B.C) There are numerous varieties or cultivated forms.

All the parts of the coconut palm are useful. The leaves are used for covering the houses or for decorating climbing frames and meeting rooms. The flowers are some-times used in the wedding ceremonies. The most used part is the fruit, or coconut which water (liquic albumen) makes a soft drink. The copra (solid albumen) gives an oil with multiple uses (cooking, cosmetic...) The fibrous envelope of the fruit is used generally to make brooms. In traditional medicine, the roots of the coconut palm are said to be to effective against dysentery. The nut freed of its fibers, burned on warm ashes let exudate an oily material used to calm dental pains.

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�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

1111

nenag Luffa acutangula (L) Roxb

eQµaHvlø×dMNaMeLIgeRTIg kMeNItenAkñúg

RbeTs\NÐa eKdaMykEpøCaGahar Epørag

dUcemagman 10 RCugRsYc² eKeRbIEpø

eFVImðÚb)aneRcInmux. kñúgk,Ün»sfburaN

eKbuksøwkbMeBakelImuxrbYs[qab;Ca.

EpøCafñaMeFVI[enameRcIn.

Liana, vague origin, cultivated in all tropical regions of the world, for the fruits cylindrical. edible used as vegetable in various culinary preparations The dried out ripe fruits are used as sponges In traditional medical, the leaves are used in external application against the hurts of shingles. The fruits could favor the milky secretion of young mothers and activate the blood circulation. The roots are said to be purgative.

1212

Cm<ÚRClk; Bixa orellanal edImenHCaculøRBwkSmankMBs; 2 eTA

8m eKnaMBI RsukGaemricekþA ykmkdaM

CuMvijeKhdæan[l¥emIl. RKab;Cm<ÚRClk;

manCatiBN’Rkhm layBN’elÓgPøav

sMrab;RClk;sMBt;Gavb¤rbs; epSg².

søwkeKdaMTwkgUt b¤RtaMeBlekItCMgWRKuncaj;

RKunmanBisEs,k b¤RKunekþAepSg².

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6�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

Shrub. 2-� m tall, native to tropical America, introduced to Cambodia, cultivated near dwelling as decorative plant. The seeds yield a red colouring used as stain. In traditional medicine, the leaves have the reputation, while used for lotions or baths, to be effective against paludism eruptive fever and other forms of fever.

1313

mn Morus albal culøRBwkSkMBs; 3 eTA 7 m naMBIRsuk

cinkNþal nigxaglicmkdaMRKb;RbeTs

énGasuIEpñkGaeKñy_ TVIbGuWr:ub nig Gaemrik

xageCIg. edImCaBUCbgáat;BI BUCmnFM

eKdaMsRmab;yksøwk eRbICacMNIdgáÚvnag

eFVIsURt. RKUfñaMburaNeRbIsøwkmnFM pSMeFVI

fñaMBüa)al Cm¶WEPñkRkhm nwgsRmab;

lagdMe)AepSg². sMbkCafñaMkmøaMgnig

Tb;mineGayraKCaedIm.

Shrub, 3-7 m tall, originating from the central and oriental part of China, introduced and naturalized in Southeast Asia, Europe and North America. Varieties of this species are used for the breed of silkworms (Bombyx mori). In traditional medicine, the leaves are a component of a remedy against the conjunctivitis. The are also used for the treatment of the wounds. The barks are considered as fortifying and astringent.

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�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

141�

RBhUt Garcinia vilersiana Pierre

RBhUtCaRBwkSkMBs; 10 eTA 15 m

duHkñúg é®BRkas;énRbeTséf Exµr lav nig

evotNamxag t,Üg. sMbksRmab;eFVIfñaM

RClk;sMBt;l¥RbNit [manBN’elOg.

RKUhµExµryksMbkRBhUt layCamYy

sMbkRTmUg eFVIfñaMbMeBakelIédeCIgeRKc.

eQImanBN’ s elOgeRbIsRmab;sg;pÞH.

Tree, 10-15 m tall, originating from the dense forests of Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Southern Vietnam. The bark gives the best yellow dye of Southeast Asia. In traditional Khmer medicine, the barks, associated to those of “tromu:ng” (G. oilveri Peter) are used to make poultices applied on the sprains. The wood, white yellowish, is used for construction.

1515

Gm<il Tamarindus indical RBwkStUcm:üagkMBs; 8 eTA 15 m

edImkMeNItkñúg TVIbGaRhVik b¤RbeTs\NÐa

eKniymdaMenA RKb; RbeTsekþAénsklelak

CarukçCatimanRbeyaCn_ nwg [møb;pg.

søwkx©I²nig EpøeKeRbIsRmab;eFIVeRKÓgeTsCUr.

RKab;GaclIgnigeFVIbEg¥m)an. eQIsRmab;

sg;pÞH. eKes¶arsMbkpwkCafñaMraK. man

BUCGm<ilEp¥meRcInduHkñúgRbeTséf.

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6�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

Small tree, �-15 m tall, originating from India or Africa, cultivated in all tropical regions of the world as shadow, decorative and utilitarian plant. The young leaves and fruits are used in culinary preparations as acid elements. The seeds are used to cook a sweet dishes. Wood is used in construction. The decoction of the barks would be effective against diarrhoea. This is a variety of tamarind with sweet fruits met especially in Thailand.

161�

sñÜl Dalbergia nigrescens Kurz var. saigonensis (pierre) Gagnep.

eQµaHRBwkSmYyRbePTkMBs; 10 eTA

20 m duHkñúg éRBeRsag nig éRBel,aH

kñúgTVIb\NÐÚcin. Epøx©I² GacbriePaK)an.

RKab;TuMeKlIgehIykin[m:t; qugpwkdUc

kaehV. eQIsñÜleKeRbI sRmab;sg;pÞH

nigeFVIvtßúepSg².

The roasted seeds give a drink evoking coffee. The wood is used in woodwork. In traditional medicine, the leaves crushed with salt are used to heal the wounds of oxen (caused by the yoke) the old leaves give a black paint.

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�� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>r No

eQµaHCaPasaExµrKhmer Name

eQµaHCaPasaLataMgLatin Name

lkçN³CIvsa®sþBiological features

1717

pÞIbnøa Amaranthus spinosusl.

CaesµARbcaMqñaM duHCitpÞHkñúgRbeTsekþA

sklelak. søwk nigFagx©IeKykeFVIsmø

b¤qa dUcpÞIFMEdr. søwk nigb¤s sRmab;eFVI

fñaMrMgab;eraKepSg² k¾)aneKykb£ses¶ar

layTgetñat[xab;EmnETn edIm,Iykmk

s¥MrMgab;eraKsnøak;q¥wg b¤eraKs,Ún. eKbuk

eGayl¥iteFVIfñaMbMeBakelIrbYsEqáxaM.

Annual herb which grows near villages in tropics. Young leaves are eaten like spinach. Leaves and roots are often used as poultices to cure some wounds, especially those caused by dog bite. The roots infusion would be diuretic. Associate with “thnot” roots (Borassus flabellifer) the roots are used as poultices against rheumatism and some forms of tuberculosis.

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6�bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

sTÞanuRkmtm,ajTechnical terms

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

1

1

kkI n CavtßúmYyrbs;kItm,aj sRmab;RTeQI

pSMEdlsßitenARtg;k,alkI Kg; Kn§arI

1994Loom neck n. A loom tool, used to support joined wood, which is placed at the head of the loom.

2

2

kI n ]bkrN_sRmab;t,aj hUl pamYg Rkma

b¤sMBt;CaedIm Kg; Kn§arI

1994Loom n. A tool, used to weave hol, phamuong, scarves or clothes

3

3

kIhUt n Ca]bkrN_sRmab;t,aj EdleKtemøIg

vaedayeRbIvIs Kg; Kn§arI

1994Drawing loom n. A weaving tool which is assembled using screws.

4

kUnhk; n Ca]bkrN_mYyeFVIGMBIeQI b¤k¾b£sSImYy

Evg Edlman RsyUvsRmab;s‘ksrés

sURtenAeBlGnÞgKg; Kn§arI

1994Konhoak n. A long wooden or bamboo tool which

contains a ring to insert silk during the weaving process.

5

5

kUnkMRBa n kg; b¤kMNat;b£sSIsRmab;s‘k nwgRB½RtExS

vlø× GMe)aH ehIymYlrwt[twg b¤[maM Kg; Kn§arI

1994Konkampria(orphan)

n. A piece of bamboo inserted with vine or silk and tied firmly.

6 kUnGnÞg n kUneQI b¤EdktUc² EdleKdaMnwgbnÞHeQI

FMsRmab;f<k;GMe)aHGnÞg Ca BisI

1994Konangtorng n. A small strip of wood or metal which has a big wood plank, used to weave silk.

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70 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

7

7

kYt ki eFVI[søab;sac; eFVI[rabTab³ kYtGMe)aHCa BisI

1994Kuot v. To flatten; to smooth

8

kUy n CaBakürbs;GñkRsukniymehAenAeBl

EdldgáÚvnagFMTuM Kg; Kn§arI

1994Koy n. A dialect word people used to call a silkworm when it has already produced a cocoon.

9

9

kaMbitsøa n KWCaBakümYyEdleKsmÁal;kaMbitbt;

eRbIR)as;kñúgkart,aj Kg; Kn§arI

1994Areca knife n. A type of knife (fold knife) used in weaving.

10

10

knÞúykI b¤ cugkI n EpñkxageRkayénkIRtg;kEnøgkþarmUrGMe)aHCa BisI

1994Loom rear n. The back of the loom which is placed at the thread rolling board.

11

11

kþatgár b¤

kþarfár

n CabnÞHeQItUclµmsRmab;RkgRbTak;

GMe)aHeqAfármuneBlt,aj Ca BisI

1994Thkor board n. A medium board, used to braid silk before weaving.

12

12

kþarmUr n CabnÞHeQIsMEb:tEvglµm eRbIwRmab;mUr

sésGMe)aHEdlGnÞgehIy Ca BisI

1994Rolling board n. A wooden board (of medium length), used to roll up silk that has already been woven.

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�1bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

13

13

kþareKaHkI n sRmab;eKaHenAeBlEdle)aHRtl;[rt;

mþg²ehIy edIm,I[sac;Rkma b¤sMBt;hab; Ca BisI

1994Kuoh Key board n. A wooden board, use to knock scarf or cloth to make it well stuffed.

14

1�

k,alkI n EpñkxagedIménkIRtg;kEnøgEdlGgÁúyt,aj

Kg; Kn§arI

1994Head of the loom n. The beginning part of the loom where the

weaver sits.

15

15

k,in n KWCaknÞúysMBt;. eBlNaEdleKniyayfa

esøóksMBt;cgk,in KWmann½yfa eKmUrCay

sMBt;cukmkxagelIKg; Kn§arI

1994Kbin n. The cloth measure, also a kind of Khmer

clothing.

16

1�

Rkma n CasMBt;t,ajedayGMe)aH

manRkLa ExVg sRmab;pøas;gUtTwk Ca BisI

1994Scarf n. A kind of cloth, made from cotton or silk and woven with a checked pattern, which is used for bathing.

17

17

eRkaH Ku s¶Ütb¤g eRkómRkTaMgKg; Kn§arI

1994Armor adj. Dry (not humid)

18

1�

xñar n Rbdab;sRmab;xarGMe)aH b¤sURtCa BisI

1994khnar n. A tool used to roll up silk for weaving.

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72 bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

19

19

KRmbeFµjeQI n CabnÞHkþarmank,ac;enAcugsgxag ragCa

knÞúyhgSsRmab;KabeFµjeQI[twgmaM Ca BisI

1994Cover of wooden comb

n. A plank with hang (mythical bird)-tail decorations on both sides, used for pressing the comb firmly.

20

20

eXø n eQµaHedImrnammYyRbePTmancnøa

sRmab;ykxøwmes¶arRClk;sURt Kg; Kn§arI

1994Khle n. A name of a thorny tree in flood forest, whose leaves are boiled to create a silk dye.

21

21

cagNag n CasmÖar³mü:agEdleKBüÜrcenøaHCYrtgár

ehIynwgr:k Kg; Kn§arI

1994Chang-Nang n. A tool which is hung between the dangkor and the pulley.

22

22

cMBYc n CaBaküGñkRsukehA KWmann½yfaGMe)aH

mYyduM Edl)anBIkarrévkñúgrhat;kug

EtsBVéf¶GMe)aHduMtUc² b:unRmamédEdl

eKcgcugk¾eKehAfacMBYcEdr

Ca BisI

1994Champuoch n. A pice of cotton or silk threads after

spinned, but today a piece of cotton thread as big as a thumb, with its end tied is also called champuoch too.

23

23

CrCay n BaküenHsmÁal;CaysMBt;pamYg EdleK

lm¥rcnaEbøkBIépÞkNþalénsMBt; Kg; Kn§arI

1994Hem decoration n. This is used so you notice the hem of phamuong, which is decorated in a pattern different from the main section.

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�3bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

24

2�

eCIgkI n KWCaeQI 4 kMNat; sRmab;RTemkI Kg; Kn§arI

1994Loom foot n. The four pieces of wood to support the loom.

25

25

CnÞal; n eRbIsRmab;xÞas;EjkRkma b¤sMBt;

Edlt,aj)an[twgl¥ Ca BisI

1994Supportter n. A tool used to separate a woven scarf or cloth.

26

2�

eQIekaH n CaeQImYyduM dUceQIpSM Edlman

RsyUv4. eKeRbIvaCMnYseQIpSM

enAeBlcab;epþImt,ajdMbUg Kg; Kn§arI

1994Koh wood n. A piece of wood, like joined wood, which has four rings. It is used to replace joined wood when the weaving starts.

27

27

eQIdMrwg n eQIdMrIgrbs;kItm,ajman 4 EdleK

eRbIR)as;sRmab;RTFñwg Kg; Kn§arI

1994Damroeung wood n. There are four damroeung wood to support the crossbar.

28 eQIFñwm n KWeQImYykMNat;sRmab;Tb;ExSqµar.

eRbICab;nwg eCIgRTTAMgbYnrbs;kI CaCMnYy

[rwgmaM nigRTeQIra sRmab;rujfáreTAmux

b¤fyeRkayKg; Kn§arI

1994Wooden crossbar n. A piece of wood to obstruct fine threads,

used with a four-foot loom in order to make it firmer to support rea wood to push the thkor back and forwards.

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7� bec©keTsRClk;BN’FmµCati nigKRmUplitkmµtm,ajsURtRbéBNIExµr

Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

29

29

eQI rwt n KWCakMNat;eQImUlEvgmYyedIm dak;enA

xagcugkI Edlf<k;Cab;nwgkþarrmUreday

exñaHEdk 2. eRbIsRmab;rwtsrés

GMe)aHEdlmUrbBa©Úlkþar EdlenAknÞúy

kIenaH[twgl¥

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Wooden

tightening tool

n. A long round piece of wood placed at the end of loom, hooked with rolling wood with two iron shackles. The weaver uses it to tighten the silk in the rolling wood at the loom tail.

30

30

eQIra n CaeRKÓgt,ajeFVIBIb£sSIeRbIenAeBlmUr

GMe)aHEbbsm½yburaN edIm,ICaCMnYy[

srésGMe)aHtwgl¥ nigeRbIenAeBlt,aj

CaeRKÓgtgárEdldak;elIeQI FñwmCa BisI

1994Rea wood n. A weaving tool, made of bamboo, in the

past used to roll up silk to tighten it; and is the dangkor tool, which is put on the crossbar.

31

31

eQIpSM n eRKÓgRbdab; sRmab;mUrRkma b¤sMBt;

és, Edlt,aj)an eKehAm:üageTotfa

pSMmUrCa BisI

1994Joined wood n. A tool to roll up a scarf or cloth which has

already been woven, also called phsam-mou.

32 eQIQñan; n eQIsRmab;Can; [tgárebIkbiTCa BisI

1994Pedal wood n. A wooden pedal to control the dangkor

(open and close).

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

33

33

eQI b¤dgGnÞg n eQIsRmab;GnÞgGMe)aH b¤sURt {buraN}Ca BisI

1994Woven wood n. A wooden tool was used to weave cotton and silk in the past.

34

3�

dam n eQµaHeRKÓgtRmajmansNæan

CmsMEb:tEvg sRmab;s‘kxÞas;GMe)aH

b¤sURtGnÞg EjkmuxkuM[ B½n§RcLMKña

b¤ehAm:üageTotfa damsMEb:tCa BisI

1994Streaking wood n. A long and flat weaving tool used to insert

and divide silk from side to side. It is also called flat streaking wood.

35

35

damkMeNIt n KWCadamEdleFVIGMBIb£sSIy:agesþIg

EdleKeRbIR)as;vasRmab;Tb;eRkaHtm,aj Kg; Kn§arI

1994Original streaking wood

n. A thin tool made of bamboo used to obstruct kroh.

36

3�

dammUr n KWCadamEdleFVIGMBIb£sSI b¤ eQI

ehIyEdlsßitenAxagcugénkItm,aj Kg; Kn§arI

1994Round streaking wood

n. A tool made of wood or bamboo, placed at the end of the loom.

37

37

damerIs n Cadamm:üag EdleFVIGMBIbnÞHb£sSIesþIg²

eKeRbIR)as; vasRmab;erIssréssURt

ykeTAfár

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Select streaking wood

n. A thin tool made of bamboo used to select silk threads.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

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emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

38

3�

damnaM n KWmansNæandUcCadammUrEdr EdleK

eRbIvaenAkñúgeBlt,aj enAeBlEdreK

RtUvkarmUr. sRmab;eRbI eBlmUrGMe)aH

GnÞg eKnaMdamsMEb:teTAmuxmun nigmUr

kuM[CMBak;Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Guide streaking wood

n. This is similar to round streaking wood, and is used in weaving when the weaver needs to roll up silk. The weaver first brings guide streaking wood then rolls up silk to avoid tangling.

39

39

zan n CaépÞGMe)aHlatesµIEdlenAelIkICa BisI

1994Tharn n. This is the even silk surface in the loom.

40

�0

tgár n ExSGMe)aHqµarsRmab;fárt,ajCa BisI

1994Dangkor n. A fine thread, used for thkor.

41

�1

tm,aj ki xÞas;ecsGMe)aH[ekItCasMBt;

b¤xÞas;GVI²[ekItCa l¥I keBa¢I >>> Ca BisI

1994Weaving v. Mix threads or other things to make clothes, baskets, bags, etc.

42

�2

Rtedakkþar ki eRbIsRmab;CUyTb;eQI rwt

nwgknÞúykI[kþarmUr b¤hugmUrtwgminrGil Ca BisI

1994Wooden wedge v. This is used to help tighten wood and the loom rear to keep the rolling board or spool from slipping around.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

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emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

43

�3

Rtl; n Rbdab;eFVIedayBk {b£sSIBk} b¤eQI

nagnYnsRmab;dak;xñarEdlxarGMe)aHCa BisI

1994Troal n. This is made of pork (a kind of bamboo) or neangnuon ( a name of hight value tree) to support silk spools.

44

��

Rtk ki CaskmµPaBmYy EdleFVI[sréssURt

rIkFMeLIg edayeRbIR)as;Bk b¤ damKas;

edIm,I[gayRsYldak;km<s;Rtk Kg; Kn§arI

1994Trork v. An action to make silk bigger by using pork or streaked wood or lifted streaked wood to make it easier to set the level of trork.

45

�5

RtsURt ki CaBakümYyEdleK)anCYbRbTHenApÞHGñk

t,aj kñúgextþtaEkv nigtMbn;epSg²eTot

Epñkxagt,ÚgénRbeTs Kg; Kn§arI

1994Trosotr v. This means country. We see this word used in Takeo province and other parts of southern Cambodia.

46

��

fár ki qVak;tgárt,ajCa BisI

1994Thkor v. To tie silk for weaving.

47

�7

ef<c ki pÞat;temþc³ ef<ckb,asCa BisI

1994Card v. To make line or threads.

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emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

48

��

Twkk,úg n )anmkBIkarkemøacpÞI b¤KrCaedIm

sRmab;yk TwkéRblagrbs;epSg²

b¤laynwgmr[køayCaFøHCa BisI

1994Potash water n. This is made from ashes (Amaranthus

spinosus L. Kapok ) to wash something or mix with mor to become dhlah.

49

�9

Twk)ay n TwikBN’sxab;Gn§il )anmkedaysar

)ay b¤ emSAmI EdleKykmk[)ay

sURt edIm,I[kart,ajrGil)anRsYlKg; Kn§arI

1994Toek bay n. Thick and white water from rice or casava

powder, which softens silk for weaving.

50

50

eFµjekas n KWCaRbePTeFµjeQIm:üag EdleFµj

rbs;vaeFVIGMBIbnÞHb£sSIesþIg²ehIyjwkKg; Kn§arI

1994

Scraped comb n. Thin and dense comb made of bamboo.

51

51

eFµjeQI n KWCa]bkrN_m:üag EdlmanragdUcCa

sñitsitéc sRmab;ykmkeRbIR)as;kñúg

kart,aj sRmab; bBa©ÚlsrésGnÞg

nwg kasbBa©Úlcak;tm,aj

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Wooden comb n. A tool like our hair comb, used for weaving.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

52

52

eFµjRsav n CaeFµjeQIm:üag EdleFµjrbs;vaeFVI

GMBIbnÞHb£sSIRkas; ehIyminsUvjwkKg; Kn§arI

1994Slender comb n. Loose comb made of bamboo.

53

53

FøH n TwkRClk;manBN’exoveFVIBImr laynwg

Twkdak;kMe)ars³ sMBt;RClk;FøHBN’FøH Kg; Kn§arI

1994Dhlah n. Dyeing liquid (blue) was made of Mor and mixed with shell lime liquid.

54

5�

FøHéRb n KWCaFøHm:üag EdleKdak;kMe)ar nigTwk

b:UtaseRcInelIslb; Kg; Kn§arI

1994Salty Dhlah n. A kind of dhlah added with excessive lime and potash liquid.

55

55

FøHsab n KWCaFøHm:üag EdleKdak;kMe)ar nigTwk

b:UtasmminRKb;RKan; Kg; Kn§arI

1994Bland Dhlah n. A kind of dhlah that was not sufficiently added with lime and potash liquid.

56

5�

naLi Ku KWCaxñatTm¶n;buraN EdlmanTm¶n;esµInwg

650 Rkam

Kg; Kn§arI

1994Neal adj. A weight measurement equal �50 grams.

57

57

e)ak ki KWCaskmµPaBm:üag kñúgeBlRClk;BN’sURt

edIm,I[BN’Cab;eTAnwgsréssURt)anl¥ Kg; Kn§arI

1994Beat v. An action to make the silk thread absorb the color dyes.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

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emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

58

5�

bnÞMl½x ki KWeKTukl½x[enAelIedImeQI rhUtdl;

l½x)anTuMl¥ Kg; Kn§arI

1994Bantum leak v. To keep red dye on trees until it is ripe, and ready to yield high quality dye.

59

59

RbemakTwkk,úg ki KWCaskmµPaBlagsréssURteqA

CamYynwgTwk b:Utas Kg; Kn§arI

1994Beating with potash water

v. An action to wash raw silk with potash water.

60

�0

ERbg n CaRbePTRcasBiessm:üag EdleK

eRbIR)as;vasRmab;[)aysURtenA

eBlt,ajKg; Kn§arI

1994Braeng n. A special comb which is used to apply

when weaving.

61

�1

paDib n {pa³ sMBt; Dib³ eqA}= sMBt;eqA

EdleKt,aj edayGMe)aHeqA\t[

)ayCUreT Ca BisI

1994Phadib n. Pha means cloth; dib means raw; [together] means raw cloth weaving without giving sour rice.

62

�2

pur ki x<úr xSúlecj resaHecjBIhug³ GMe)aHpurCa BisI

1994To be bubbling v. This refers to cotton or silk threads that

have rolled out of spools.

63

�3

pamYg n CasMBt;sURtm:üag ¬EdlkøaymkBIBakü

esom³ paERbfasMBt; mYg ERbfa

BN’sVay¦

Kg; Kn§arI

1994Phamuong n. A kind of cloth (derived from a Siam word,

pha means cloth and muong means violet).

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

64

��

pþÜlBN’ ki KWCaskmµPaBRClk;BN’sURtCamYynwg

RBhUt munnwgeKRClk;BN’epSg²eTot Kg; Kn§arI

1994To dye v. Action to dye silk with prahout color first before dyeing with other colors.

65

�5

epþkmekøÓ ki KWeKRClk;mekøÓ

Kg; Kn§arI

1994To dye with makhloeur

v. Dyeing with makhloeur (black color).

66

��

épÞ n KWCaEpñkkNþáalénsMBt; EdlminEmn

CaeCIgKg; Kn§arI

1994Surface n. The main part of cloth, not the hem.

67

�7

pSM n KWCa]bkrN¾mYyrbs;kI eFVIGMBIkMNat;

eQIrag 4 RCug Rmab;mUrsMBt;enA

eBlt,aj Kg; Kn§arI

1994Joining wood n. A spare part of the loom, which is made from quadrilateral-shape wood and used for rolling up cloth after it is woven.

68

��

Bk b¤ damKas; n Ca]bkrN¾m:üagedleFVIGMBIb£sSI b¤eQI

sRmab;bMe):agépÞsréssURtenAeBlfár

EdleK)anEckrYcmkehIy edaysar

damerIs

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Pork or pry up streaking wood

n. A tool made of wood or bamboo, used for swelling the silk surface when they had thkor by select streaking wood.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

69

�9

Bidan n CasMBt;hUlm:üagsRmab;eRbIR)as;kñúg

sasna. eKminEdlykBidanmkkat;Ca

semøókbMBak;eT Kg; Kn§arI

1994Pidan (Ceiling) n. A kind of hol used in religious ceremonies. We never dress this kind of cloth.

70

70

B½n§mUl n eQImYyKUsRmab;dak;p¥bkþarmUrtm,aj

P¢ab;srésGnÞg Ca BisI

1994Round wood n. A pair of wood pieces placed next to rolling wood.

71

71

Bak;dam ki Bak;GMe)aHnigkUnGnÞgedayExVgRmaméd

Ca BisI

1994hang streaking wood

v. To hang silk thread and kon antorng by crossing fingers.

72

72

mr ¬m¦ n Pk;EdlekItGMBITwkRtaMedImRtuM RBmTaMg

søwkRtuMRss;pg [rlYyehIykUr[xHkk

mansm,úrexµA exoveTACaFøHsRmab;eRbI

CaeRKÓgRClk;.Kg; Kn§arI

1994Mor n. Mud resulingd from the soaked trom tree,

which is kept until rotten and stirred until it is dark blue [and suitable] for dyeing.

73

73

m¢ÜréRB Ku KWCaTwkm¢ÚrEdl)anmkGMBIedImeQI søwk

nigEpøeQI EdlduHenAkñúgéRB Kg; Kn§arI

1994Wild sour spice adj. This is made from a wild tree, leaves and fruits.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

74

7�

rgeCIg n KWCaEpñkxagkñúgcugCaysMBt; Kg; Kn§arI

1994Rong choeung n. This is the end part of the hem.

75

75

révKYbmuxsURt ki KWCabec©keTs yksréssURteRcIn

mkbRgYmcUlKña [eTACamYysrésFM

lµmGaceRbIR)as;)anKg; Kn§arI

1994Combining silk hair thread

v. A technique to bring many silk threads together as desired.

76

7�

rév[xµaj; n KWCabec©eTsm:üag EdleKeFVIbnÞab;BIkar

révKYbmux edIm,IeFVI[sréssURt

eLIgxµaj;l¥Kg; Kn§arI

1994To spin tightly n. A technique used after we have

interwoven silk threads firmly.

77

77

r:k n Rbdab;manePøA sNæanxUgCuMvij vil)an

FUrRsYl sRmab;s‘kExS b¤BYrTajGVI²

eyageLIg b¤sRmUtcuHedaygay³

r:kknÞúyhgS r:kpáacan; eRbIsRmab;Taj

tgár[ehIbKg; Kn§arI

1994Pulley n. A tool which has two poles with a hollow

shape, and holes through which we can insert a line to pull things up and down easily.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

78

7�

rgVwg n Rbdab;mansøabeFVIeday b¤sSImanePøA

manéd sNæanCarhat;FMx<s;eRsag

maneCIgx<s;sRmab; B½T§sURt b¤GMe)aH

søabrgVwg eCIgrgVwg

Kg; Kn§arI

1994Rongvoeung n. A tool made of bamboo in a wheel shape

with long food and handles for linking the threads.

79

79

erIs ki Rsal;eRCIs sRmaMgyktameBjcitþ

b¤tamRtUvkar Kg; Kn§arI

1994select v. To choose materials.

80

�0

rhat; n Rbdab;sRmab;rév xar RsUb evj

maneRcInEbb³ rhat;rév ¬sURt¦ Kg; Kn§arI

1994Rohat n. A kind of spinning device; a tool used for rolling up, spinning, twisting threads, etc.

81

�1

rm¶as; ki KWdaMTwk[BuHy:agyUr nUvvtßúFatuedIm[

ecjCaBN’ EdleKRtUvkar Kg; Kn§arI

1994Decoct v. To cook dyeing materials for a long time to get colors.

82

�2

l½x n kñúgPasaGñkt,aj l½xeKsmÁal;vtßúFatu

TaMgLayNa GaceFVI[sURtman

BN’epSg²Kg; Kn§arI

1994Leak (color) n. In weaving technique, leak means all

materials that can color silk.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

83

�3

l½xRCuH n KWenAeBlEdll½xgab;

ehIyekIteLIgsarCafµI xøÜnvay:ageRcInKg; Kn§arI

1994Dropping leak n. This is said when insects that produce red dye die and re-birth in large quantity.

84

��

el,Ik n KWCasMBt;sURtExSsy Twkmas

b¤TwkR)ak; mankUn páatUc² Kg; Kn§arI

1994Lboeuk n. A kind of cloth made from golden or silver braid in the patterns of the small flowers.

85

�5

edImsEgá n KWCaedImeQIm:üagduHkñúgéRBtUc² EdleK

ykedImrbs;vaeTAeFVICaGusdutepH

sRmab;plitTwkk,úg nigsøwkrbs;va

sRmab;GñkERsmUr)arICk; Kg; Kn§arI

1994Sangke tree n. A tree that growths in sparse forest, which

can be used as firewood. Its ashes can produce potash water and some people use its leaves to roll cigarettes.

86

��

sar)ab;

¬sar:³¦

n ¬kø> Cr)ab;¦ eQµaHsMBt;mansac;Rkas;F¶n;

t,ajeday sURtlayExSsyTwkmas

b¤TwkR)ak;edayelIkCa eKamrMelceday

k,ac;rcna CasMBt;mantémøeRcIn³

sMBt;sar)ab;¬ehAcr)ab; b¤car)ab;¦

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Sarabab n. A kind of thick cloth made from silk and gold or silver braid.

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

87

�7

sURtk,al n KWsURteqA KuNPaBGn;bMput )anmk

GMBIdgáÚvnagmanCm¶W Kg; Kn§arI

1994Head of silk n. This is raw and low-quality silk. Sick silkworms produce this kind of silk.

88

��

sURtéd n KWsURteqAEdlmanKuNPaBTabKg; Kn§arI

1994hand silk n. This is raw and low-quality silk.

89

�9

sURtsac; n KWCasURteqA EdlmanKuNPaBl¥bMputKg; Kn§arI

1994Substantial silk n. The raw and high quality silk.

90

90

sURt s n KWsURt]sSahkmµEdlmanBN’sKg; Kn§arI

1994White silk n. This is industrialized silk which is white.

91

91

sURtRkhm n KWsURt]sSahkmµEdlmanBN’RkhmKg; Kn§arI

1994Red silk n. This is the red industrialized silk.

92

92

RsBab; Ku KWCakRmitEdleKhals¶ÜtbgÁÜr

Kg; Kn§arI

1994Partially dry adj. This is the level of exposing things to sun

and wind.

93

93

hugmUr n Rbdab;sRmab;mUrGMe)aHGnÞg mansNæan

dUcnwghugGMe)aHtUc²{Ebbsm½y} Kg; Kn§arI

1994Rolling spool n. A tool to roll silk or cotton thread that is similar to a small spool (modern).

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

94

9�

hUl n KWCasMBt;sURtm:üag Edlrcnaeday

k,ac;páa nigrUbFrNImaRtepSg²sRmab;

eRbIR)as;eFVICasemøókbMBak; Kg; Kn§arI

1994Hol n. A kind of silk cloth, which is decorated with flowers and other geometrical representations used for dressing.

95

95

Lt n KWCaxñarm:üag EdlmanxñatxøIbMputKg; Kn§arI

1994Tube n. A kind of bobbinet spool which is very short.

96

9�

GnÞg ki KWCabec©keTsmYyénkart,aj sRmab;

erobcMsréssURt eRkayeBlEdl)an

RClk;BN’rUc. naMsrésGMe)aH b¤sURt

eTAmk²erobcMGMe)aH[man beNþayKña

ehIymUredaykþarmUr dak;B½n§mUlnwgdam

edIm,Ifárt,aj³ GnÞgGMe)aH GnÞgsURt

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Weave v. A technique to prepare silk or cotton threads after they are dyed, bringing silk or cotton threads forward and back parallel and rolling them up around wood and streaking wood to thkor.

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l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

97

97

GnøÜj n KWCasMBt;sURtm:üagEdlmanqñÚtbeNþay

BIelIcuH eRkam. kalNaeKniyayfasMBt;

hUlGnøÚj mann½yfa sMBt;hUlenaHmanrUb

qøas;Kña CamYynwgrUbqñÚt²cuHeRkamKg; Kn§arI

1994Checked cloth n. A kind of silk cloth that has stripes from

top to bottom. When people say checked hol this means the pictures and stripes alternate on the cloth surface.

98

9�

G½kSGnÞg ki eRKÓgRbdab;rbs;Exµr mYyRbePTeFVI

edayeQIxøwm mankaM manr)axñg man

sNæanmUl xageBaHmansNæansMEb:t

rayregVIl² cugTaMgBIrxagbBa©úH P¢ab;cugkaM

manePøAvil)an maneCIgRTmaM manéd

sRmab;kan;bgVil

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Spindle

v. A kind of Khmer tool that is made from heartwood with rainks, round crossbar and flat bottom. At the end of each poles, there are rainks, supporter and a handle for turning it around.

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l>rNo

emBakü Primary word

fñak;Class

esckþIBnül;Explanation

eyagReference

99

99

GMe)aH n 1> CasréssMLIEdlrévrUcehIy man-

RbEvgEvg sRmab;t,ajRkma sMBt;

CaedIm CaGMe)aHeqA

2>CasrésGMe)aHplitecjBIeragcRkman

BN’ RKb;BN’ ehIyCab;maMnigmanPaB

relagCagGMe)aH EdleFVIedayéd

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Cotton n. 1.The raw cotton thread that is already spun for weaving scarves, etc.

2.The threads in various colors, produced in factories, which is firm and smoother than hand-made cotton thread.

100

100

[)ay ki [Twk)ay b¤bbr b¤emSAm:dælaynig

TwkeqA edIm,I[GMe)aHeqAkøayCaGMe)aH

q¥in manKuNPaBmaMCab;)anyUr

Kg; Kn§arI

1994

Giving rice v. The process to make raw cotton threads or silk become mature and has good quality.

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90b

ec©keTsRCl

k;BN’F

mµCati nigKRm

Uplitkm

µtm,aj

sURtRb

éBNIExµr

Technique of Natural D

yeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in C

ambodia

90

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

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bBa¢IeQµaHGñkEdl)anpþl;smÖasn_

1> elakta Cin Eqm Gayu 65 qñaM enAPUmi)aTI XuMRkaMgFñg; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ta Chin Chem, 65, Bati village, Kraing Dhnung commune, Bati district, Takeo province 2> elakyay nU suxna Gayu 65qñaM enAPUmi)aT XuMRkaMgFñg; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Yeay Nou Sok Nea, 65, Bati village, Kraing Dhnung commune, Bati district, Takeo province

3> GñkmIg kUv saem:t Gayu 54 qñaM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Kov Samet, 54, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

4> bgRsI suINat Gayu 35 qñaM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Sinat, 35, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

5> elak qil sat Gayu 27 qñaM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Mr. Chil Sat, 27, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

6> GñkRsI RsImuM enAPUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Mom, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

7> GñkmIg ehg sM Gayu 50 qñaM PUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Heng Sam, 50, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

8> Duc suINan Gayu 25 qñaM PUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Duch Sinan, 25, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

9> GñkRsI Duc cnßa Gayu 21 qñaM PUmirMeck XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Duch Chantha, 21, Rom Chek village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

10> GñkRsI tug esoveGg Gayu 42 qñaMPUmiTMnb; XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Tong Siev Eng, 41, Tumnob village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

11> GñkRsI sMrit Lag Gayu 42 qñaM PUmiTMnb; XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Samrit Lang, 42, Tumnob village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

List of interviewed people

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

12> elakyay Nag Gayu 65 qñaM PUmiTMnb; XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Yeay Neang, 65, Tumnob village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

13> GñkRsI sM suKaM Gayu 50 qñaM enAPUmiéB XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Sam Sukorm, 50, Pei village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province

14> elak sYg mij Gayu 34 qñaM enAPUmieQITal XuMetñat Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

CaRKUxagsib,kmµtm,aj enAGgÁkar CYK nigmanbTBiesaFn_CaeRcInEpñktm,aj

CaBiess EpñkBidan

Mr. Suong Mich, 34, Chheu Teal village, Thnot commune, Bati district, Takeo province. He is a teacher of silk weaving at CYK association and he specializes in Piden weaving.

15> elak Eg:t em:g Gayu 54 CaefAEkeFVIhUl pamYg sarugsURt enAPUmival

XuMkþaj; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv. elakCaGaCIvkrpg nwgsib,krpg ehIysñaéd

rbs;Kat;RtUv)anTTYlsÁal;y:agTUlaykñúgcMeNamGñkeRbIR)as;. sñaédTaMgenaH

mandak;lk;CaeRcIntUbkñúgpSarFMfµI CaBiesstUbelx 225-246-248

Mr. Nget Meng, 54, Veal village, Kdanh commune, Bati district, Takeo province. He is the whole seller and weaver of Hol, Phamuong and Sarong Sotr. His works are recognized in country and can be bought at Central Market especially houses No 245,246, 248 .

16> elakyay eRsg Rs‘un Gayu 75 qñaM enAPumiTMbn; XuMcMbk; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Yeay Sreng Srun, 75, Tumnob village, Chambak commune, Bati district, Takeo province

17> GñkRsI suxum Gayu 49 qñaM enAPUmiTMnb; XuMcMbk; Rsuk)aTI extþtaEkv

Ms. Sokhom, 49, Tumnob village, Chambak commune, Bati district, Takeo province

18> elakta Qa Qn Gayu 80 qñaM PUmiRtBaMgcMbk; ¬ehAkukedk¦ XuMCMrHeBn

RsuksMerag extþtaEkv

Ta Chea Chorn, 80, Trapeang Chambak ( called Kok Dek), Samreahpen commune, Samrong district, Takeo province

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

19> elakta Guwm Gayu 73 qñaMPUmikenSamGk XuMsMerag RsuksMerag extþtaEkv

Kat;CaGñkeFVIeFµjb£sSIEdlmanbTBiesaFn_CaeRcInqñaMknøgmkehIy taMgBImunsm½y

b:ul Bt eTAeTot

Ta Im, 73, Kansom Ork village, Samrong commune, Samrong district, Takeo province He produces bamboo comb since before Pol Pot’s regime

20> elakta b:U Gayu 81 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal

extþéRBEvg

Ta Po, 81, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

21> elakyay Kg; Gayu 76 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg

Yeay Kong, 76, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

22> mIg TI Gayu 52 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal

extþéRBEvg

Ms. Ty, 52, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

23> elakyay Lag Gayu 78 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal

extþéRBEvg

Yeay Lang, 78, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

24> elakyay TI éNRsuIm Gayu 67 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan

RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg

Yeay Ty Naysrim, 67, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

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Technique of Natural Dyeing & Traditional Pattern of Silk Production in Cambodia

25> elak Lúg tughan Gayu 58 qñaM enAPUmiERBkc®gáanelI XuMERBkc®gáan

RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg. elakCasib,krpg nwgGaCIvkrpg

Mr. Long Tong Han, 58, Prek Changkran Loeu village, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province. He is a weaver and seller.

26> muIg sux exOn Gayu 52 qñaM enAPUmiekagTenø XuMelV RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg

Ms. Sok Khoeurn, 52, Kong Tonle village, Lve commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

28> elakRKÚ buRt Gayu 37 qñaM enApSarERBksENþk XuMERBkc®gáan RsuksuIFrkNþal

extþéRBEvg. sBVéf¶elakCamnusSEtmñak;Kt;enAXuMERBkc®gáanEdlenARClk;BN’

edayeRbIl½káExµr

Mr. Bot, 37, he lives at Prek Sandek market, Prek Changkran commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province. He is only weaver now inhis area to dye the silk using traditional colors

29> bgRsI pløI Gayu 35 qñaM enAPUmiekagTenø XuMelV RsuksuIFrkNþal extþéRBEvg

Ms. Phally, 35, Kong Tonle village, Lve commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

30> elakyay pan Gayu 60 qñaM enAPUmiekagTenø XuMelV RsuksuIFrkNþal

extþéRBEvg CaGñkfársURt

Yeay Phan, 60, Kong Tonle village, Lve commune, Sithor kandal district, Prey Veng province

31> BU est Rsn; Gayu 53 qñaM enAPUmicugekaH XuMekaHdac; RsukmuxkMBUl extþkNþal

Mr. Set Sroan, 53, Chong Koh village, Koh Dach commune, Mukh Kampoul district, Kandal province

32> mIg sMGag Gayu 54 qñaM PUmik,alekaH XuMekaHdac; RsukmuxkMBUl extþkNþal

nig RbCaCnmYycMnYneTotEdlCasib,krtm,aj

Ms. Som Ang, 54, Kbal Koh village, Koh Dach commune, Mukh Kampoul district, Kandal province and other weavers.

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bBa¢IÉksareyag

- kRmgÉksarsþIBI RbéBNI nigTMenomTmøab;Exµr BuT§sasnbNÐitü 1999

(Dictionary of Plants used in Cambodia, Prof. Dy Phon Pauline, 2000)

- viFIeFVIhUlrbs;®sþIExµr edayelak lI suvIr/ PñMeBj 1998

(Documentations on Khmer Tradition, The Buddhist Institute, 1999)

- esovePAsikSasþIGMBIExµr k,ac;hUl pamYg sURt bUraNExµredaysm<½n§ sib,kmµ

km<úCa nig GñkRsI R)agÁ sun/PñMeBj

(Method to produce Hol of Khmer women, Ly Sovy, Phnom Penh 199�)

- tm,ajRkmaExµr edayk> Ca BisI/PñMeBj 1994

(Book on Lantern study of old khmer Hol, Phamuong, Silk by Cambodia Craft Corporation and Ms. Prang Sun, Phnom Penh)

- tm,ajpamYgenAekaHdac; edayk> Kg; Kn§arI>PñMeBj 1994

(Khmer Scarf Weaving by Miss. Chea Pisey, Phnom Penh 199�)

- vcnanuRkmExµr PaK1-2/ BuT§sasnbNÐitü 1968 RKae)aHBum<elIkTI5

(Khmer Dictionary part I-II, The Buddhist Institute, 1968, fifth edition)

References

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eragBum<viTüasßanBuT§sasnbNÐitü

The Buddhist Institute Printing House

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