Coffee for Justice:Coffee for Justice:Chemistry in service to Chemistry in service to
small-holder coffee small-holder coffee farmersfarmers
ACS Science and Human ACS Science and Human Rights WebinarRights Webinar
presentedpresentedOctober 9, 2012 October 9, 2012
Susan C. JackelsSusan C. JackelsSeattle UniversitySeattle University
Telling the story of collaboration with Telling the story of collaboration with Nicaraguan small-holder coffee Nicaraguan small-holder coffee
farmersfarmers The “Coffee The “Coffee
Crisis” of 2001Crisis” of 2001 Nicaraguan Nicaraguan
Farmers’ responseFarmers’ response Involvement in Involvement in
coffee quality coffee quality improvement with improvement with farmers, using farmers, using chemistrychemistry
“Coffee Crisis”
Coffee Crisis: Volatility in the Coffee Crisis: Volatility in the Price of Coffee on the World Price of Coffee on the World
MarketMarket
N. Luttinger and G. Dicum, “The Coffee Book,” Norton, 2006
Response to the Coffee Response to the Coffee Crisis in Nicaragua since Crisis in Nicaragua since
20012001 Small holder producers have strengthened Small holder producers have strengthened
cooperative organizations in order to:cooperative organizations in order to:– Improve coffee quality Improve coffee quality (hope for access to (hope for access to
specialty quality market)specialty quality market)– Gain certification Gain certification (Fair Trade and Organic)(Fair Trade and Organic)– Gain access to international marketsGain access to international markets
International relief and development organizations International relief and development organizations began providing assistance. (USAID, Catholic Relief began providing assistance. (USAID, Catholic Relief Services, others)Services, others)
In 2002, I became involved through association In 2002, I became involved through association with ISJACHEM, University of Central America with ISJACHEM, University of Central America Managua and Catholic Relief ServicesManagua and Catholic Relief Services
Why improve coffee quality Why improve coffee quality at some expense to at some expense to
quantity?quantity? Gain access to specialty Gain access to specialty market market (quality must be (quality must be higher than 80 on a 100 higher than 80 on a 100 point scale so the global point scale so the global buyers get interested)buyers get interested)
Hope for a relationship Hope for a relationship with a buyer with a buyer that that persists year-to-year persists year-to-year
Direct trade Direct trade can get a can get a good price but must good price but must have a connection and have a connection and good qualitygood quality
Why improve coffee quality Why improve coffee quality at some expense to at some expense to
quantity?quantity? Organic/Fair Trade Organic/Fair Trade market: market: producers producers still can’t find a still can’t find a buyer for all organic buyer for all organic coffee (our coffee coffee (our coffee coops this year sold coops this year sold 70% of their coffee 70% of their coffee on conventional on conventional market)market)
Small differential Small differential between organic between organic and conventional and conventional market prices (2012)market prices (2012)
•A research /service project in service to Nicaraguan small-holder coffee producers•The goal is to help producers get out of the Coffee Crisis by improving their coffee so it can be sold on the Organic /Fair Trade or Specialty market (or direct trade).
Partner OrganizationsPartner Organizations Catholic Relief Services Catholic Relief Services
Nicaragua/ Caritas MatagalpaNicaragua/ Caritas Matagalpa Nicaraguan farmer coops Nicaraguan farmer coops
CECOSEMAC and ADDACCECOSEMAC and ADDAC University of Central America University of Central America
ManaguaManagua National Science FoundationNational Science Foundation Seattle USeattle U UW BothellUW Bothell Winds of Winds of
PeacePeace MJ Murdock Charitable TrustMJ Murdock Charitable Trust
NicaraguaNicaragua
NicaraguaNicaragua
Locations of Cooperatives
We were connected with these coffee farm cooperatives through Catholic Relief Services
First and foremost, make good First and foremost, make good relationship with the relationship with the
communitycommunity
Focus groups: We asked Focus groups: We asked the farmers for their the farmers for their
questionsquestions What is the effect of What is the effect of
over-fermentation on over-fermentation on coffee quality?coffee quality?
How can fermentation How can fermentation be controlled to be controlled to optimize coffee optimize coffee quality and maintain quality and maintain consistency?consistency?
Coffee Coffee Cherry Cherry
AnatomyAnatomy
Mucilage Layer removed by fermentation after outer skin and pulp are removed mechanically.
What did you say? Fermentation in What did you say? Fermentation in coffee processing?coffee processing?
Coffee Processing on the Coffee Processing on the FarmFarm
How can we answer the How can we answer the farmers’ question about farmers’ question about over fermentation and over fermentation and whether it affects their whether it affects their
coffee quality?coffee quality?
We began by doing a field We began by doing a field study on the farms to find study on the farms to find
out changes happening out changes happening during coffee fermentation.during coffee fermentation.
A field study of coffee A field study of coffee fermentation on small farms in fermentation on small farms in
Matagalpa in 2004Matagalpa in 2004
SC Jackels and CF Jackels, Journal of Food Science, 2005, Vol. 70, pages C321 – C325.
Developed tests for pH, Developed tests for pH, ethanol, lactic acid and ethanol, lactic acid and
glucoseglucose
pH profiles of coffee pH profiles of coffee fermentationfermentation
Fermentation pH
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
6.5
-20.0 -15.0 -10.0 -5.0 0.0 5.0
t-tc(hrs)
pH
D-1D-2D-3C-1B-1A-1A-2
All batches were ready to wash at the same
pH.
Conclusions from field studyConclusions from field study The regular pattern of pH change during The regular pattern of pH change during
fermentation may be useful for fermentation may be useful for producers.producers.
The results provide the basis for a simple The results provide the basis for a simple method to control fermentation on the method to control fermentation on the farm by monitoring pH.farm by monitoring pH.
Necessary to determine the relationship Necessary to determine the relationship between roasted coffee quality in the cup between roasted coffee quality in the cup and fermentation time (over and fermentation time (over fermentation).fermentation).
2006 controlled 2006 controlled fermentation experimentsfermentation experiments
On each of eleven days divided one On each of eleven days divided one large batch of pulped coffee into six large batch of pulped coffee into six small buckets for fermentationsmall buckets for fermentation
Each day: Fermentation stopped at Each day: Fermentation stopped at three different pH rangesthree different pH ranges
““Cupped” the coffee to determine Cupped” the coffee to determine qualityquality
Does a relationship exist between fermentation pH at time of washing and coffee quality?
Controlled fermentation Controlled fermentation experimentsexperiments
Three pH ranges each dayThree pH ranges each day Wash 2 buckets in each pH range:Wash 2 buckets in each pH range: Range 1: pH = 4.5-4.8Range 1: pH = 4.5-4.8 Range 2: pH = 4.1-4.4Range 2: pH = 4.1-4.4 Range 3: pH = 4.0-3.6Range 3: pH = 4.0-3.6
pH durante el tiempo de la fermentacion
3
3.5
4
4.5
5
5.5
6
Tiempo
pH
12
3
Ph during the time of fermentation
Time
pH monitoring and washingpH monitoring and washing
Stephanie Kleven, testing in lab.
Stephanie Kleven and Roberto Rivas, washing coffee.
Coffee Quality by CuppingCoffee Quality by Cupping in Laboratories in Laboratories
Scores on 66 Scores on 66 coffee batches are coffee batches are in the range 75- 88in the range 75- 88
““Good coffee, but Good coffee, but not outstanding”not outstanding”
Are there Are there significant changes significant changes with systematic with systematic over fermentation?over fermentation? Sol Café Laboratory
Cupper with international reputation
Cupping ResultsCupping ResultsQualities:
Fragrance and Aroma
Acidity
Flavor
Body
After-taste
Balance
Ranges: 90 – 100 (excellent); 80 – 89 (very good);
70 – 79 (commercial); 60 – 69 (poor); <60 (not acceptable)
Do the averages differ Do the averages differ significantly?significantly?Change (12)
Change (13)
Sol Café Results
-1.1 (t=1.41; p=0.10)
-1.5 (t=2.00; p=0.04)
Paired sample t-test
One-tail probability
Quality changes of Quality changes of individual paired samplesindividual paired samples
Wilcoxon Signed Rank Test (one-tail): Range 1 2 (p = 0.043)Range 1 3 (p = 0.055)
Controlled fermentation Controlled fermentation experiments: Conclusionsexperiments: Conclusions
Weak relationship is observed:Weak relationship is observed: lower values lower values of pHof pHtermterm (over-fermentation) correspond to (over-fermentation) correspond to reduced coffee quality: reduced coffee quality: -1.5 point change in quality for pH change -1.5 point change in quality for pH change of approximately -0.5 units. of approximately -0.5 units.
A more powerful study, with more replicates A more powerful study, with more replicates would strengthen this conclusion.would strengthen this conclusion.
Does a relationship exist between fermentation pH at time of washing and coffee quality?
S. Jackels, C. Jackels, C. Vallejos, S. Kleven, R. Rivas and S. Fraser-Dauphinee, Proceedings of the 21st ASIC (Association Scientifique Internationale du Café) Meeting 2006, pp. 434 – 442.
Transferring knowledge Transferring knowledge to the coffee farmers…to the coffee farmers…
Fermentation optimization Fermentation optimization by coffee producersby coffee producers
Can producers themselves use pH measurements to improve coffee quality through “fermentation optimization”?
100 kits for small farmers: pH paper, watch, instructions, materials
Workshops for Coffee Workshops for Coffee ProducersProducers
Treatment applied by Treatment applied by producersproducers
Before:Before: Measure pH at time of washing Measure pH at time of washing coffee, making no change from usual coffee, making no change from usual routine. Then submit a sample for routine. Then submit a sample for drying, roasting and cupping.drying, roasting and cupping.
Make changes in fermentation to Make changes in fermentation to optimize.optimize.
After:After: Measure pH at time of washing an Measure pH at time of washing an optimized batch. Then submit a sample optimized batch. Then submit a sample for drying, roasting and cupping.for drying, roasting and cupping.
Ferm Time vs pH: Step C - Step A
-20.00
-15.00
-10.00
-5.00
0.00
5.00
10.00
15.00
-2.00 -1.00 0.00 1.00 2.00
Change in pH
Cha
nge
in F
erm
enta
tion
Tim
e (h
)
Producer Data
Spearman rank correlation: rho = -0.341, N = 69
Inverse Correlation is significant (P = 0.004)
The producers’ changes in The producers’ changes in pH and fermentation time pH and fermentation time
were correlatedwere correlatedFermentation Time versus pH: “After” – “Before”
Did the coffee quality Did the coffee quality improve?improve?
Average Cup ScoresAverage Cup ScoresLabLab SamplesSamples Before Before
(SD)(SD)AfterAfter (SD)(SD)
Change Change (SD)(SD)
P testP test
Sol Sol CaféCafé
7171 81.181.1(4.2(4.2))
81.581.5(3.5(3.5))
0.43(3.8)0.43(3.8) .17.17
All Samples Included
LabLab SamplesSamples Before Before (SD)(SD)
AfterAfter (SD)(SD)
Change Change (SD)(SD)
P testP test
Sol Sol CaféCafé
6969 81.481.4(3.6(3.6))
81.881.8(3.1(3.1))
0.43(2.6)0.43(2.6) .09.09
Damaged Samples Removed
Was the fermentation Was the fermentation optimized by coffee optimized by coffee
producers?producers?Answer: Maybe
•Farmers successfully controlled fermentation with kits
•No statistically significant change in quality, however.
•Crop quality problem: Before-step was mid-harvest at peak of quality, After-step was end of harvest when quality diminished.
S. Jackels and C. Jackels, Proceedings of the 21st ASIC (Association Scientifique Internationale du Café) Meeting (Montpelier) 2006, pp. 434 – 442 (2006)
Cup scores by Cup scores by cooperativecooperative
Name of Name of CooperatiCooperativeve
Average Average Score Score BeforeBefore
Average Average Score AfterScore After
P ValueP Value
Las NubesLas Nubes 83.183.1 83.083.0 0.460.46PayacucaPayacuca 81.481.4 81.981.9 0.130.13San San AntonioAntonio
78.678.6 81.181.1 0.070.07
SiaresSiares 83.583.5 83.583.5 0.470.47PacayonaPacayona 80.480.4 81.281.2 0.120.12El CastilloEl Castillo 81.381.3 80.780.7 0.070.07
2012 harvest: all of these cooperatives were in the 82 – 83 range.
Social Analysis: Social Analysis: What did the coffee What did the coffee
producers learn from us?producers learn from us?
•Increased awareness of the importance of quality control and potential for improvement
•Increased involvement and interest of the children
•Higher morale and more hope for the future
2009 Engineering project to 2009 Engineering project to build a coffee millbuild a coffee mill
M.D. Marsolek, J.T. Alcantara, P. Cummings, L. Quintero, M. Wynne, C. Vallejos, C.F. Jackels, S.C. Jackels, International Journal for Service Learning in Engineering, June 2012.
Acknowledgements to Acknowledgements to International Scientific TeamsInternational Scientific Teams
FacultyFaculty Prof. Susan Jackels, Seattle University (USA)Prof. Susan Jackels, Seattle University (USA) Prof. Charles Jackels, Univ. of Washington Bothell (USA)Prof. Charles Jackels, Univ. of Washington Bothell (USA) Prof. Carlos Vallejos, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua)Prof. Carlos Vallejos, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua) Prof. Cipriano Lopez, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua)Prof. Cipriano Lopez, Univ. of Central America Managua (Nicaragua) Prof. Michael Marsolek, Seattle University (USA)Prof. Michael Marsolek, Seattle University (USA)
StudentsStudents Seattle UniversitySeattle University: Stephanie Kleven, Jack Chacon, Joshua Alcantara, : Stephanie Kleven, Jack Chacon, Joshua Alcantara,
Patrick Cummings, Luis Quintero, Michael Wynne, Angelica Omaiye, Patrick Cummings, Luis Quintero, Michael Wynne, Angelica Omaiye, Zachary Kamine, Kathleen Bacarro, Czarina Franco, Diana Heaney, Zachary Kamine, Kathleen Bacarro, Czarina Franco, Diana Heaney, Spencer Ubben, Stella Navia, Jody Cook, Britt Mueller, Tam Pham, Ivon Spencer Ubben, Stella Navia, Jody Cook, Britt Mueller, Tam Pham, Ivon Octavia, Jessica Angginasah, Fera Widjaja, Amy Sly, Kerina PowellOctavia, Jessica Angginasah, Fera Widjaja, Amy Sly, Kerina Powell
University of British Columbia University of British Columbia (Canada): Scott Fraser-Dauphinee(Canada): Scott Fraser-Dauphinee University of Central America Managua University of Central America Managua (Nicaragua): Roberto Rivas, (Nicaragua): Roberto Rivas,
Diana Zelaya, Gema Medina, Maria Auxiliadora Castillo, Ervin GarciaDiana Zelaya, Gema Medina, Maria Auxiliadora Castillo, Ervin Garcia
Farmers and NGO’sFarmers and NGO’s Coffee farms and families of Matagalpa, NicaraguaCoffee farms and families of Matagalpa, Nicaragua CECOSEMAC and ADDAC Cooperatives and Caritas MatagalpaCECOSEMAC and ADDAC Cooperatives and Caritas Matagalpa Catholic Relief Services/NicaraguaCatholic Relief Services/Nicaragua
Acknowledgements for Acknowledgements for SupportSupport
US National Science US National Science Foundation (CHE-0512867)Foundation (CHE-0512867)
Engineers Without BordersEngineers Without Borders Tetra Tech, Inc. Tetra Tech, Inc. Winds of Peace FoundationWinds of Peace Foundation MJ Murdock Charitable TrustMJ Murdock Charitable Trust Seattle UniversitySeattle University University of Central America University of Central America
ManaguaManagua Catholic Relief Catholic Relief
Services/NicaraguaServices/Nicaragua
QuestionsQuestions