Textiles Webinar

28-06-2011

Table of Contents

Briefing on Indian Textile Engineering Industry by Mr.

Saktiprasad Chakrabarty, Secretary General of the Textile Machinery

Manufacturers Association

Briefing on Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing: Bangladesh

Perspective by Mr. Faruque Hassan, Vice President of the Bangladesh

Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

Briefing on Sustainable Technology for Modernisation by Mr. Ashok Desai,

Director of Bombay Textile Research Association

Briefing on the Free Trade Within The Subcontinent by Mr. Tahir Jahangir,

Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan

News on BusinessVibes

Indian Textile Engineering Industry

(TEI)

May 2011

The Textile Engineering Industry (TEI) in India is one of the five key

engineering sectors

Consists of more than 1400 units, with a total investment of

Rs.6,900 crores*

More than 80% of the units are SMEs*

Capacity is Rs. 8048 crore*

Provides direct/indirect employment to > 250,000 people*

TEI contributes greatly to the competitiveness of the Indian Textile

Industry (TI)

Meets 45-50% of the demand of the Indian textile industry*

* (Source: Textiles Committee Survey)

TEI – An Overview

5

TEI – An Update

Rs. Crore

Source: TMMA, DGCIS

6

Demand & Production – Past and

Projected

Source : TMMA, DGCIS & Private sources.

9847

7258

7526

9577

11000

13300

14900

15700

5515

3456

3663

5500

6000

7300

8900

10700

4332

3802

3863 4077

5000

6000

6000

5000

56

48

49

57 56 55 60

68

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

14000

16000

18000

2007-08 2008-09 2009-10 2010-11 2011-12 2012-13 2013-14 2014-15

( R

s.C

rore

)

Domestic Demand Met by domestic production Met by import % Share of demand met by domestic industry

Faruque HassanVice President, BGMEA &

Managing Director, Giant GroupJune 28, 2011

Webinar

Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing:Bangladesh Perspective

Starting in the early 1980s, Bangladesh has become the 2nd largest apparel exporting country in the world in 2010 recording USD14.86 billion exports

More than 5000 garment factories are operating in Bangladesh where 4 million people are

employed, 80% female

The share of garment export to national exports during the July 2010-May 2011 period stood 77.71%

Garment export earning is around 13% of Bangladesh’s GDP

During the July 2010-May 2011 period our garment exports totaled USD 15.96 billion registering a robust 43.18% growth compared to the corresponding period of last fiscal

Export touched a record height ever in a single month in May 2011, USD 1.79 billion showing 50.55% growth.

The primary textile sector meets up almost 90% raw material needs of knitwear exports and around 40% needs of the woven garment exports

Bangladesh is the world’s second largest cotton importer, annual import is 4.75 million bale average

Bangladesh produces almost 100 percent of the accessories needed by the export oriented garment industry

Around 6 million people are employed in the Textile and Clothing sector altogether, 40 million people are directly and indirectly dependent on this sector

Bangladesh enjoys duty free access to the European Union, Canada, Australia, Japan, Norway and Switzerland

The modern factories have state-of-the-art machineries, international standard quality control process, good house keeping and social standards

Almost all the globally renowned brands are sourcing from Bangladesh and a good number of them having liaison office in Dhaka

The industry is growing at an annual average rate of 15%

An Outlook of Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Sector

Efficient, Green,

Clean and Sustainable Production

Waste Management through Energy

Efficient & Environment

Friendly Technology

Skill Development and Capacity

Building for Product & Design

Development

Widening the application of IT

solutions catering to the Textile &

Clothing Industry

Govt. Support for Research &

Development, Textile & Clothing Park,

Favorable Taxation Policy

Priority Areas of Technology Upgrade: Bangladesh Textile & Clothing Perspective

Clean & Energy Efficient Production:

Though the Textile & Clothing sector is underway of modernization, but the sector incurs a huge wastage in energy and resources. For example - the ratio of energy efficiency in the T&C sector is 40% and the wastage of water is around 15%-18%. Since fabric process requires to use huge chemical, water, electricity and energy this has an impact on the environment and nature. However, considering the worldwide growth in apparel consumption textile and clothing production has also to grow at per. But we have to be cautious about the adverse impact on environment and how to minimize the impact. We are campaigning to motivate the entrepreneurs on this spirit, which includes the following points:

Use effluent treatment plant to re-treat the water and conserve the nature

Use water treatment plant to feed clean water into the textile processing so that the use of chemical and energy can be minimized

Use energy efficient machine and technology in case of boiler, iron, fans and blower , etc. The purpose built and low-risk energy efficient boilers may be placed

Use low liquor ratio dying machine to optimize the use of water, energy and chemicals

Replace the magnetic ballasts with electronic ballasts

Replace the normal bulbs with energy saving CFL bulbs and use LED lights

Replace the induction/class motors with Servo motors

Steam trap maintenance & insulation of pipes

Energy co-generation

Skill Gap and Skill Development:

The major productivity gap emerges from the skills shortages in the textile and clothing industry. The world textile & clothing market is growing and we have a 5% share of it only. So we have a huge scope of growth. Our entrepreneurs have that capability and dynamism to utilize this potential and our workers particularly females are one of the best workforce in the world for this industry. Such a growth projection clearly indicates the need for a huge skilled workers.

Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector

The existing infrastructural facility is not adequate to supply required professional for the textile and garment industry in Bangladesh. The textile technologists available in Bangladesh is not adequate at present. So the government needs to scale up the technical and vocation training facilities for this sector to produce graduates and professionals for the textile and clothing sector. Apart from focusing on the conventional education, government needs to pay more attention on the technical side.

BGMEA is running a number of training centers for developing skilled workers, and it is very encouraging that some of our esteemed buyers have also come forward to partner with us in this venture. We are pursuing the government to start large scale training facilities for this sector

Particular focus has to be drawn in the area of developing expertise for product and design development to facilitate our progression to high value added segment

Widespread Application of IT Solutions

Different machineries are used in Textile Industry for various departments like Blow room, Carding, Combing, Weaving, Bleaching, Testing, Finishing

Produce diverse range of products in a specific delivery cycle

Numerous end product variants created from relatively limited raw materials

Machine Sequencing & Load Balancing complexities

Long replenishment lead times for procured raw materials

Multiple production scenarios in different locations and routing as the product needs to go to different places for different value addition

So, the IT solution like CAD, PDM, POS, ERP, RFID need wider use in Textile and Clothing sector

Training and Research & Development on the Textile and Clothing Sector:

Favorable policy initiatives needed to support the technology up-gradation like India and Pakistan

Promotion of Energy Conservation Technologies by the all related trade bodies.

Needs to strengthen Research & Development for the Textile & Clothing sector

Technology upgrade in Textiles & Clothing Sector

Respect for nature – Green-building, water recycling and using renewable energy hasbeen getting increased attention among the entrepreneurs. BGMEA has been runningseveral projects to promote energy efficiency in textile & garment factories.

Sustainable use of resources – The textile & garment industry in Bangladesh havealready gained significant progress in clean production. In order to bring all factoriesunder this practice BGMEA runs projects like waste recycling. We are in the process ofinitiating a responsible sourcing program with the IFC-SEDF. It undertakes awarenessprogram to upgrade technology for sustainable production.

Safe to wear products – Most factories run their own textile testing labs which areaccredited by large fashion retailers like H&M, Marks & Spencer, Puma, JC Penny, G Star,Tesco, Hugo Boss, Zara, etc. Tests are done as per various international standards likeISO/AATCC/BS/OEKO-TEX. Most of the companies have awards from big fashion retailersfor good product & Quality.

Skill Development - BGMEA established country’s first fashion institute called BGMEAINSTITUTE OF FASHION & TECHNOLOGY in 2000. The institute is aimed to cater mid-management professionals and fashion designers need for the garment industryBGMEA runs skilled development program jointly with the Government of Bangladeshto address the skill shortage. This institute is in the process of transformation into afashion university. BGMEA runs productivity and quality improvement projects

ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITYEnvironmental Sustainability: the Ultimate Impact

The Bombay Textile Research AssociationMumbai

BTRA was established in 1954 as

research association under the

societies registration act XXI of

1860 to provide research and

consultancy support to Indian

Textile Industry

GENESIS

MANDATE

To undertake research and other

scientific work in connection with

the textile trade or industry and

other trades or industries allied

therewith or accessory thereto

Research

Consultancy

Testing

Training

MAIN ACTIVITIES

Technology

Transfer

Utilities /

Conservation

Quality &

Environment

Management

Decentralised

SectorGovernment /

Financial

Institutions

Training /

HRD

In-house

Projects

R & D

Consultancy in all aspects of textiles

Consultancy in Technical Textiles

Consultancy for ISO 9000 and ISO 17025

Techno-economic Feasibility / Vetting related Reports

Service on Valuation of Plants, Machinery and Building

Testing Services

Consultancy in Eco labeling

Services to Decentralised Sector

BTRA ACTIVITIES

Physical / Chemical properties – textiles, chemicals / dyestuffs, etc.

Microbiological properties

Technical textiles / composites testing

Polymer properties – certain unique and special test facilities

Eco-testing

Testing as per GOTS / OEKO-TEX

Flammability Testing

Specially designed tests for washing machine manufacturers, detergent manufacturers, etc.

BTRA Test Laboratories are accredited to ISO-17025 : 2005 standards

Testing services

X-ray diffraction (chart diffraction)

FT-IR spectroscopy

Birefringence measurement

Light Microscope photographs

Scanning Electron Microscope photographs

Thermal analysis (by TGA, TMA, DSC)

Melt Spinning experiments

Gel Permeation Chromatography

Testing Facilities for Nonwovens including

Polymer Testing

1. NEED FOR SHOP FLOOR PRACTICES

2. KNOWLEDGE OF MODERN MANUFACTURING PRACTICES AND TECHNICAL/SUPERVISORY SKILLS

3. AWARENESS OF ENVIRONMENTAL NORMS

NEED FOR FOCUS ON MANPOWER TRAINING

SUSTAINABLE TECHNOLOGY FOR

MODERNIZATION

A few Potential Plasma Applications for conventional

and technical Textiles

• Improvement in hydrophilic/wetting properties of

fibers like polyester, PP, PE etc.

• Ease of removal of sizing material in desizing

process

• Improvement in the adhesion promotion

• Hydrophobic/ water repellant finishing of textiles

• Textile finishing : Anti-static, anti-bacterial, optical

barrier coating, etc.

Project : Plasma Technology for Textile Processing

Advantages of Plasma Technology as eco-friendly

process :

Environmental friendly technique

Dry technique as no water is required

Low energy consumption,

Qualitative and full controllable process

Operator friendly technique: no chemical products,

gases, etc.

No damage to the substrate and no change in bulk

properties.

Minimum waste disposal problems

Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles

Wettability improvement

Treatment of polyester, polyester/cotton samples with

helium oxygen plasma for improved hydrophilicity

Functional finishing of textiles

Functional finishing of 100% cotton, 100% polyester,

and P/C blended fabrics with HMDSO to impart water

repellent properties

Functional finishing of cotton fabrics for oil repellency

using fluorinated acrylates.

Nylon and PET treatment with silane plasma

Water repellent cotton by plasma treatment

UNTREATED COTTON HMDSO TREATED COTTON

Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles

Achievements in the Plasma Processing of Textiles

Dyeability

Modification of cotton fabric with aminosilane plasma

followed by dyeing with reactive dyes

Improved dyeability of nylon by means of plasma

activation followed by grafting

Electroconductive Textiles Smart Textiles-

Capability to respond to the external environment agent in

an appropriate manner

Electrically conductive textiles-

Incorporation of Conductive polymers into textiles

Innovative way than the conventional methods

Retains all textile properties, yet work smartly through

ability to conduct electricity

Projected to have broad impact in the fields of protective

clothing, medical textiles, military, sports, consumer

products

Project : Studies on Textiles doped with Conducting Polymers

• Development of an Innovative Two step In-situ Chemical Polymerization of

Intrinsically conductive polymers (ICP) on Textile Fabrics

• Electrical Surface Resistivity can be achieved in the range of 10 – 108 Ω

• Scaling up of the Process for large scale production is possible

Chemical Polymerization of ICP s on Textile

fabrics

• Resistance to Ageing of Polypyrrole coated Cotton fabrics was improved by

the Incorporation of Sulfonic acid salts (e.g Naphthalene sulfonic acid- NSA)

as doping agents

• The reduction in atmospheric aging to the tune of 12-13 times was observed

with the use of sulfonic acid dopants in addition to chloride dopants

Improvement in Atmospheric Stability of ICP

coated Textiles

• Development of various prototypes for specific applications:

Smart Textiles

Resistive heating pads & garments

Fabric based hazardous Gas Sensor

Prototypes

Some of the Publications

• Quality and Operational Benchmarks for modern

spinning mills

• Global challenge vis-à-vis performance levels of

modern blended yarn / cotton spinning mills in India

• Quality parameters for Home Textiles

• Norms for Chemical Processing

• Norms for Mechanical Processing (Weaving)

• Steam Consumption Norms for Textile Process

Houses

• Developments in Processing of Knitted Fabric

• Product catalogue on Technical Textiles

TAHIR JAHANGIRCHAIRMAN

Association Description

The Towel Manufacturers’ Association of Pakistan was recognized by the Government of Pakistan on 9th August 1976 as “B” class Association with Head office at Karachi and two Circles viz., Northern (i.e. Punjab & NWFP) and Southern (i.e. Sind & Baluchistan) provinces with their offices at Lahore and Karachi respectively.

Since then the Govt. of Pakistan has entrusted this Association with the job of management and distribution of Quota of Towels, Terry fabrics & other made-up to its members.

Most of the Towel Manufacturing Units are members of this Association.

The Association is also designated to issue Certificates of Origin under Article 11(2) of the International convention relating to the simplification of customs formalities, 1923 in respect of Towels exported to non-GSP countries from Pakistan vide SRO No. 903(1)1181 dated 10th August 1981.

This Association to also issues certificates (T-2) for submission to that Bank for sanction of Business Travel Quota for countries other than India vide State Bank of Pakistan letter No. 8066/ECP.8(ii)-B-83 dated 31st October 1983.

Policy Ideas of the Association

Move to a free trade regime progressively within the Subcontinent. This will bring out the best firms in the region - they will have a big market at their doorstep. The economies of scale and the access to each others know how and technology will help them grow stronger and take on the large firms worldwide much better.

Big boon for the consumers of the sub continent. Imagine having the choice of buying the best or cheapest garments, sheets, fabrics, towels from the entire range presented by the subcontinent. Also imagine the diversity of design.

It worked for the United States of America and then worked for the European Union, why not us?

Given the current protectionist tendencies it is an idea that is difficult to stomach in one go. I would therefore go step by step. Once the first step succeeds and is seen to succeed and bring benefits to all concerned then it will be easier to take the second step.

No sentiment in the entire European Union that wants the free trade arrangements reversed. They may complain of the common Euro and the financial burden of bailing out the weaker economies – but there is no one who wants the customs union to go.

Suggestions

Start with textiles and take the least sensitive items first. As the Chairman of the Towel Manufacturers Association of Pakistan I would like to offer free trade in all terry products and made up items. My proposal is to dismantle the current import duties placed on these items by each country to be abolished in the following manner:

Year 1 – half the current import duties. Year 2 – further half the duty i.e. come to 25%. Year 3 – abolish all duties.

If the basic idea appeals to a cross section of the industry then more segments could be approached for the phased duty reduction.

Interested? Contact me at ceo@halaenterprises.com

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