Textile science

Textile Science

Key Terms Fabrics Fibers

Natural Fibers Regenerated Fibers Synthetic Fibers

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Definition of Fibers……. A morphological term for substances characterized by their flexibility,fineness and high ratio of length to cross sectional area.

A unit of matter, either natural or manufactured, that forms the basicelement of fabrics and other textile structures.

It is defined as one of the delicate, hair portions of the tissues of a plant oranimal or other substances that are very small in diameter in relation tothere length.


A fiber is characterized by having a length at least 100 times its diameter orwidth.

The term refers to units that can be spun into a yarn or made into a fabric byvarious methods including weaving, knitting, braiding, felting, and twisting.

The essential requirements for fibers to be spun into yarn include a length ofat least 5 millimeters, flexibility, cohesiveness, and sufficient strength. Other

important properties include elasticity, fineness, uniformity, durability, andluster.


Types of Fibers and Yarns Fibers are spun into yarn

Yarns are uninterrupted threads of textile fibers that are ready to beturned into fabrics

Natural Originate from natural sources

Plant (cellulosic) or animal (protein) Manufactured, synthetic, or man-made (terms interchangeable)

Originate from chemical sources May also be from regenerated or recycled sources




Natural Fibers Natural fibers are textile fibers made

from plants or animals Cellulosic (from plants)

Cotton From cotton

plants Flax (linen) From flax stems

Jute (Jute stems)

Protein (from animals) Silk

From cocoons of silkworms Wool From fleece (hair) of sheep orlambs

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Characteristics of Natural Fibers Natural fibers are usually:

AbsorbentComfortableCooler to wearWrinkle more

Shrink when washed

Important natural fibers are:CottonLinenJuteWoolSilk


Cotton Cellulosic fiber

From “bolls” (seed pods) growing on bushes “Environmentally friendly” cotton can be grown in arange of colors Main textile products of China, India, Iran, Pakistanand Egypt

Made into a wide range of wearing apparel


CottonAdvantages:

Comfortable Absorbent

Good color retention Dyes & prints well Washable

Strong Drapes well

Easy to handle and sew Inexpensive


Disadvantages: Shrinks in hot water Wrinkles easily

Weakened by perspiration andsun

Burns easily Affected by mildew

Linen (Flax) Flax is the fiber name; linen is thefabric name. World’s oldest textile fiber, datesback to Stone Age 5,000 years. Cellulosic fiber from stem of flaxplant. Towels, sheets, and tableclothsare called “linens”.


Linen (Flax)Advantages:

Strong Comfortable

Hand-washable or dry-cleanable Absorbent

Dyes and prints well Resists dirt and stains Durable Withstands high heat Lint-free


Disadvantages: Wrinkles easily Can be expensive Shrinks

Burns easily Affected by mildew and

perspiration Ravels

Difficult to remove creases Shines if ironed

Jute Jute is a long, shiny vegetable fiber that can be spun into coarse, strongthreads. The fibers are off-white to brown, and 1-4 meters (3-12 feet) long.Bangladesh is the world’s largest exporter of jute. Jute is grown in thesame land-water area as rice and is a very difficult crop to grow and

harvest. Other important jute export countries include India, China, Burma(Myanmar), Pakistan, Nepal and Thailand.


Advantages Great antistatic properties Low thermal conductivity.

Moisture Regain properties is goodenough (about 13.75%). 100% Biodegradable; so it isenvironment friendly fiber like

Cotton. Cheap in market. Can be widely used in Agriculture

Sector, Textile Sector, Woven Sector,Nonwoven Sector.

Jute Fiber can be blended with Naturaland Synthetic fibers.

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Disadvantages

•The crease resistance of Jute is very low.•Drape Property is not good enough.

•Create Shade effect and becomes yellowish if sunlightis used.

•If Jute is wetted it lose it’s strength.

Coir• Is a natural fiber extracted from the husk of coconut

• Products such as floor mats, doormats, brushes,

mattresses, etc.

• Technically, coir is the fibrous material found between the

hard, internal shell and the outer coat of a coconut.

• Other uses of brown coir (made from ripe coconut) are in

upholstery padding, sacking and horticulture.

• White coir, harvested from unripe coconuts, is used for

making finer brushes, string, rope and fishing nets.


Hemp Hemp fiber was widely used throughout

history. Items ranging from rope, tofabrics, to industrial materials were madefrom hemp fiber.

Hemp was often used to makesail canvas, and the word canvas derivesfrom cannabis. Today, a modest hemp fabric industry

exists, and hemp fibers can be used inclothing.

Pure hemp has a texture similar to linen.


Banana Fibers• A native plant of Southeast Asia, banana is now

grown extensively in all tropical countries for fruit,fiber or foliage.• These fibers are obtained mainly from stem.

• The fibers obtained from the central core are oflow.er quality compared to the fibbers obtainedmainly from pseudo stem. At present, banana fiberis available in three qualities

• It is used to make fancy items like bags, tablemats, purses, etc and their latest venture isweaving of banana fiber fabric


Wool Protein fiber from sheep or lambs

Worsted wool is higher quality with longstaple fibers (over 2 inches)

Natural insulator The term wool can only apply to all animalhair fibers, including the hair of cashmere orangora goat

As well as the specialty hair fibers of camel,alpaca, llama, or vicuna


WoolAdvantages:

Warm Lightweight

Wrinkle-resistant Absorbent

Dyes well Comfortable Durable Creases well Easy to tailor Recyclable


Disadvantages: Affected by moths

Shrinks with heat and moisture Needs special care, dry cleaning Absorbs orders

Scratchy on skin Weakens when wet

Harmed by bleach, perspiration

Silk•Silkworms spin cocoons in filaments

•Filament is a very long, fine, continuous thread•It can take as many as 500 cocoons to create 1 blouse


SilkAdvantages:

Soft Drapes well

Dyes and prints well Very strong

Lightweight Resists soil, mildew, and moths Comfortable

Absorbent


Disadvantages: Expensive

Needs special care, dry cleaning Stains with water

Yellows with age Weakened by perspiration, sun,

soap Attacked by insects, silverfish

Sisal fibers Sisal is a perennial hardy plant, which

unlike the other fibers is not aseasonal crop.

It can establish and easily grow in allstates of India covering sub humid toarid and semiarid regions, which covermajor parts of India.


Pineapple(PINA) Fiber… Piña is a fiber made from the leaves of a

pineapple and is commonly used in thePhilippines It is sometimes combined with silk or

polyester to create a textile fabric. The people there used to extract fibers from

pineapple leaves and through hand spinning,made a soft, sheer and a little stiff fabric- the

piña fabric. It's regal and exotic!


Man Made Fibers

Manufactured Fibers Manufactured fibers are fibers created by a manufacturing process of anysubstance that is not a fiber.

Cellulosic- from generated fibrous substance in plants. Non-cellulosic or synthetic- made from petrochemical products. Process

Raw materials melted or dissolved to form thick syrupLiquid extruded through spinneretExtruded filaments stretched and hardened into fibers


Rayon•1st manufactured in 1894 by the American ViscoseCompany

•Used during WW 1 for industrial products•Derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or vegetable

matter•Rayon led to crepe, velvet, and satin fabrics

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RayonAdvantages:

Soft and comfortable Drapes well

Durable

Highly absorbent Dyes and prints well

No static or pilling problems Inexpensive

Colorfast May be washable


Disadvantages: Wrinkles easily unless treated Low resiliency

Heat sensitive

Susceptible to mildew Stretches

Weakens when wet Fabric shrinks if washed May need dry cleaning

Acetate Rayon•Developed in early 20th century

•Produced in 1924 by the Celanese Corporation•Used to line coats and fabrics

Advantages: Luxurious appearance Crisp (texture) soft hand

Wide range of colors; dyes and prints well Drapes well Resists shrinkage, moths, and mildew Low moisture absorbency, relatively fast

drying No pilling, little static


Disadvantages: Requires dry cleaning Weak

Heat sensitive

Poor abrasion resistance Dissolved by nail polish remover (acetone)

Lyocell Lyocell is the newest of the cellulosic manufactured fibers Trade name is Tencel®

Advantages:Absorbent

BiodegradableStrong

Resists sunlight, aging, and abrasionDisadvantagesSusceptible to

mildewUsed to Make:Reusable woven materialsFashion fabrics

Soft denimsshirts


Bamboo It is a regenerated cellulose fiber. Bamboo fiber is 100% made frombamboo through a high-tech process. Fastest growing plant and takes only3-4 years to reach maturity


Advantage:•High strength, health care

•Anti- bacteria•Moisture management and

•Soft hand feel•Anti-static

•Perfect for Sensitive Skin

Disadvantage:•Poor spinability

•High cost (30 to 40 % higher than cotton)


Corn Fiber Trade name of this fiber is Ingeo.

Ingeo fiber combines the qualities of naturaland synthetic fibers in a new way. Strength and resilience are balanced withcomfort, softness and drape in textiles. Inaddition, Ingeo fiber has good moisture

management characteristics. This means that Ingeo fiber is ideally suited tofabrics from fashion to furnishings.


Advantages of Corn fiber Good color fast (i.e. does not fade). Wrinkle free (doesn’t need ironing). Good Resilient - it doesn’t shrink. Doesn’t absorb odors.

Has excellent soil release and stain resistance. Has excellent performance when compared to other fibers.

Is hypoallergenic. Ingeo has never caused an allergic reaction inindependent testing.

Has excellent U.V. resistance (better than polyester).


Milk Fiber Milk Yarn is made from milk protein fibers.

To make it, milk is first dewatered, i.e. all the water contentis taken out from it and then it is skimmed. New bio-engineering technique is then applied to make aprotein spinning fluid.

This fluid is suitable for wet spinning process through whichthe final high-grade textile fiber is made.


Advantages• Eco-friendly in nature.• It can be considered as Green Product .• More compatible to human skin.• Milk fiber has sanitarian function.• Comfortable, excellent water transportation & air permeability.• Milk Fiber has the advantages natural Fiber combined with

synthetic Fiber.

Disadvantages of casein fiber• It gets wrinkles easily after washing and needs to be ironed every time.

• It should not be washed in machine and that is because it's not a very hard fiber

• It has a low durability

• Due to abundance of other fabrics like polyester, milk fabric never really became that popular

• It is expensive


Synthetic Fiber

PolyesterSynthetic fiber developed in the 1950’s by DuPont

Advantages: Strong

Crisp, but soft hand Resists stretching and shrinkage Washable or dry-cleanable Quick drying

Resilient, resists wrinkles Abrasion resistant

Resistant to most chemicals Colorfast

Strong, durable Dyes well

Disadvantages: Low absorbency

Static and pilling problems


Nylon•Invented in 1938 by DuPont

•1st synthetic fiber•Made completely from petrochemicals in an experimental laboratory

Advantages: Lightweight

Exceptional strength Abrasion resistant Easy to wash

Resists shrinkage and wrinkles Resilient, pleat retentive

Fast drying, low moisture absorbency Can be pre-colored or dyed in a wide range

of colors Resists damage from oil and many chemicals Insulating properties


Disadvantages: Static and pilling

Poor resistance to sunlight Low absorbency

Picks up oils and dyes in wash Heat sensitive

Acrylic•Manufactured in the 1950’s by DuPont.

•Originally used for blankets and sweaters because it resembled wool.•Fiber composed of linear macromolecules having in the chain at least 85% by massof acrylonitrile repeating units.

Advantages: Lightweight, soft, warm, wool-like hand Dyes to bright colors

Machine washable, quick drying Resilient, retains shape, resists shrinkage

and wrinkles Wool-like, cotton-like, or blended appearance Excellent pleat retention

Resists moths, oil, chemicals


Disadvantages: Low absorbency Develops static Pilling Heat sensitive Weak

Dissolved by nail polish remover(acetone)

Spandex Developed in 1959 by DuPont

Stretches over 500% without breaking

Advantages: Lightweight

Retains original shape Abrasion Resistant Stronger than rubber Soft, smooth, supple

Resists body oils, perspiration, lotions, detergents No static or pilling

Disadvantages: Whites yellow with age Heat sensitive

Harmed by chlorine bleach nonabsorbent


Microfibers Newest trend in fashion

1st developed in 1989 by DuPont

Ultra-fine fiber

Denier is a unit of measurement used to identify thethickness of diameter of a fiber

Advantages Extremely drapeable

Very soft, luxurious hand

Washable or dry cleanable

Shrink-resistant Strong

Insulates against wind, rain, and cold

Disadvantages Heat sensitive


Kevlar & NomexAdvantages

Exceptional strength Exceptional heat andflame resistance

Resistant to stretch andabrasionDisadvantages Not absorbent


Kevlar Bullet Proof Vests

Cut/Heat and Chemicalresistant Gloves

Nomex Fireman Uniforms Racing Apparel


Apartment Therapy A Rum Fellow

With craft continuing to rise in popularity, macramé techniques are gaining traction.

Anthropologie recently commissioned workshops by stylist Emily Henson, whileRed magazine asked stylist Joanna Thornhill to demonstrate at a public event.

Authentic pieces from the 1970s heyday appear modern when incorporated intootherwise contemporary interiors, and crafters recreate original patterns.

In contrast, some designers opt to add modernity to pieces by streamlining shapesand incorporating contemporary colours.

While hanging plant pot holders and wall hangings form the main part of this trend,lighting, furniture and accessories now also feature in homes and public spaces.

Playing with scale gives a modern twist to macramé, and is seen across theboard, from domestic wall hangings to giant art installations in exhibitions orcommercial venues.

American Trade Hotel

Six Week Boutique The Student Hotel Amsterdam

A renewed interest in houseplants, especially among young, urban small-space dwellers, makes macramé plant hangers a practical option, with websites such as Urban Junglecelebrating the movement. Made from slim string or jute, cut jersey fabric or acrylic rope, they incorporate modern touches, such as neon twines and chunky wooden beads.

Graham & Green Modern Macrame

Joanna Thornhill Warp and Weft Atelier Rue Verte A Rum Fellow

Referencing the 1970s, makers play with colour, using unexpected hues or ombré-dyed string to add a contemporary twist to original designs. As well as more traditionalrectangular formats, interesting shapes such as circular and abstract designs appear. Macramé knotting is also mixed with other mediums such as weaving or screen-printing.

Maryanne Moodie Vicky's Home

Himo Art A Pair And A Spare Warp and Weft Rowan Studios

Revived retro shapes such as hanging chairs and hammocks or suspended side tables take on authentic 1970s styles, or embrace more streamlined silhouettes. Accessories playwith scale for a modern twist. The Notknot cushion mimics an oversized macramé knot while Ladies & Gentlemen’s rug resembles an oversized doily.

Reykjavik Corner Store Patricia Urquiola

Apartment Therapy Sunroom Ladies & Gentlemen Studio Classy Clutter

Lighting makes a natural pairing for macramé, due to its ability to cocoon itself around a variety of different shapes, making for theatrical pieces. Examples include large-scaledesigns or oversized knots, with Christian Haas’s Ropes light incorporating modern LED lighting technology within the rope itself.

Lights Lights Lights

Rennes Smalltown Justyna Blakeney Christian Haas

Designers emulate macramé patterning on fabrics, wallpapers and soft furnishings, as a form of homage to the real thing, offering a get-the-look option for consumers perhapsunwilling to have full macramé items within their homes. As well as repeat pattern designs, print artwork depicting finished macramé pieces emerges.

Surfacephilia Anthropologie

Alia Diaz Harlequin Jane Clayton Lamorna

Macramé is mimicked with hard structures that range from organic approaches, with rope-based items treated with hardening resins, to pieces completely engineered fromman-made materials. Launched in Milan, Kartell and Exnovo's new lamps employ the latest 3D printing technology to recreate a traditional macramé design.

Kenneth Cobonpue

.exnovo Kettal Accademia Kartell

Giant scale gives macramé a modern look, and art installations are commissioned by various hotels and restaurants. Homeowners also personalise their spaces with bespokepieces acting as room dividers or backdrops for special occasions, such as weddings.

Ace Hotel Palm Springs Sera of London

A Beautiful Mess Nikki Gabriel Jacqueline Surdell 100 Layer Cake

Date post:	07-Feb-2017
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