Textile terms and definitions

Chapter No 1

TEXTILE TERMS AND DEFINITIONS

Abrasion Text

A text used to simulate and measure the wear

performance of textile yarn, fabric, cloth covered natural.

Absolute Humidity

The mass of water vapours present in unit volume of

moist air is called absolute humidity. Its typical unit is g/m3.

Absorbency

The ability of textile material to take in and regain a

liquid such as water within fibers and within coarse.

Acid Dye

An anionic dye charterized by substantivity for protein

polyamide or other fibers containing basic groups. Acid dyes

are normally applied from an acid or neutral dye both.

Acrylic

A manufactured fibers composed of synthetic linear

micro molecules having in a chain at least 85% by parts, this

related to acrylonitrile group.

Dye Affinity

The quantitative expression of distribution of dye

between substrate and dye bath in equilibrium. It is different

between chemical potential state of dye in its standard state

in the fiber and corresponding chemical in the dye bath.

Ageing

1. Originally a process in printed fabric was exposed to a

hot moist atmosphere. At the present time, terms is almost

exclusively applied to the treatment of printed fabric in moist

steam in the absence of air.

2. Ageing is also used foe development of certain colours

in dyeing or Colourant, e.g. aniline black.

In manufacturing of viscose fiber oxidative depolarization of

alkali cellulose in order to procedure a control decrease in

chain length. The term is some time altering although

incorrectly used to describe the reacting of viscose.

3. The oxidation by exposure to air of drying oil sizes and

finishes.

4. The deterioration of rubber and plastics coatings and

proofing and of same lubricants on textiles caused by gradual

oxidation on storage and or exposure to light.

5. Progressive change with time in structure and

preparation of polymer including wool fibers.

Ager

A Chamber used for ageing is called ager.

Alpaca Fiber

Fiber from the fleece of semi-domesticated animal of

the same name or of the llama.

American Cloth

A light weight plain weave fabric usually of cotton,

coated on one side with a mixture of linseed oil and other

material so as to render it glossy and impermeable to air or

water.

Angora Fabric

A fabric woven from angora yarn.

Apparel

Personal outfil garments clothing including head ware and

foot ware this definition is includes all apparel even that or

non fibrous material .

Mohair

1. (The hair of the angoro rabbit.)

2. The hair of the angora goat is referred to as Mohair.

Apron

A device used to control continuous movement of fiber in

drafting system. It more common to utilize two apron as a

double

drafting system.

Aramid Fiber

A manufacture fiber composed synthetic linear micro

molecules having in denier amide groups untimate 55% which

are goint directly to aromatic rings.

Artists Canvas

A fabric made of cotton, linen, jute, hemp, prepared with

size and (Primed with lead) specifically for artists painting

grounds.

Assembly Winding

The winding of two or more year as one on to a single

package usually preparation of a package by twisting process.

Altas Fabric

A warp knitted fabric having two set of thread making

identical single altas movement in oppositions. (direction)

Auto Leveler

A electronic auto leveler device that is fitted to back of

carding and drawing machine which scanner observed the c.v.

or S.D of feeding material and massage to drafting roller by

means of change the speed of back drafting roller and to

control the S.D or C.Vof linear density of out put material , the

resultant is delivered by that machines linear density if the

necessary draft to compensation.

Anti Static Agent

A substance capable of preventing, reducing or dissipating

electric charges that might otherwise be produced.

Anionic Dye

A dye the dissociation in aqueous solution to give a

coloured negatively charged ion.

Auto Clave

A vessel in which texs material may be treated with

steam under pressure is called auto clave.

Azoic Dyeing

The production of an insoluble Azo compound on a

substrate by interaction of a diazotized amine and coupling

component.

B.A Wool

Wool originating from Argentina usually for luxurilly

material and coarse count.

Back Gray

The fabric used on a roller printing m/c b/w the fabric

and blanket to be printed sometime known as face fabric.

1. In order to absorbed any printing paste through the

printing fabric.

2. To impart resilience to the printed fabric allow sharping.

3. Fabric used in screen printing to support light weight

fabric to be printed in order to maintain stability and open the

fabric to be printed. The back gray and face fabric are

gummed together and with printed fabric itself to be gum in

printed table.

Back Telling

An other treatment to improve the wet fastness of dyed

of printed silk or polyamide material using either synthetic or

natural agents.

Bad Cover

A fabric appearance in which spaces between the threads

are more pronounced. Than is required. The amount or degree

of cover can be affected by loom adjustment setting or count

of reed or by the construction of the yarn used.

Balance Weave

A weave in which the averages float is the same in the

warp and weft directions and in which the warp and weft floats

are equally distributed between the two sides of the fabric.

Bale Breaker

A m/e used for opening cotton or other the short staple

fiber. The fiber ,oily and dirty, is removed directly form

compressed bale Layers of compressed fibers are taken from

bale and fed in to m/cs. The main object of B.B is to minimize

and opened the large tufts size in to small tufts size of raw

material where tearing action of two spick lattice which are

moving in opposite direction. This m/c is as bale breaker.

Bale Dyeing

Dyeing of loose stock in form of unpacked bale.

Alkali Cellulose

Alkali cellulose is the product of interaction of caustic

soda with purified cellulose. In the manufacturing of viscose

rayon. The cellulose may be cotton linters or wood pulp. After

pressing alkali cellulose usually contain approximate 30%

cellulose and 15% NAOH, the remember being Water. During

steeping of cellulose is concentrated NAOH to form the alkali

cellulose, soluble impurities including the soluble cellulose are

removed.

Barre

Unwanted strips in woven or knitted fabric. In woven

fabric this fault is in the directions of the width of fabric and

this is major fault. It’s caused may be as:

1. Due to uneven blending of different micronaire of cotton

2. Heavy cv percentage of count variation.

3. Stop and start wind off loom.

Back Winding

Process of rewinding for example hank or cone on to most

suitable package for next process for next process. Yarn in

sold in market on paper cone far example for yarn dyeing we

wind that yarn on perforated spool to absorbed dye.

Backing

A strip of material placed in side of garment to act as a

reinforcement.

Basic Dye

A cationic dye characterized by its substantively for

tannin-mordant cotton.

Bast Fiber

Fib obtained from outer layer of the stems of certain

plants.

Bastard Reed

A reed in which dent spacing and each side is slightly

greater then the center.

Beave

The silk fiber complete with its natural gum as it is with

drawn from a cocoon formed by silk worm.

Beam Dyeing

The dyeing of textile material wound on to a hallow

perforated roller in the form of a warp sheet or fabric on a

perforated beam.

Beaming

The primary operation of warp making in which ends with

drawn from a warping creel. Evenly spaced in sheet from are

wound on to a beam to substantial length.

Blazer Cloth

Traditionally an all wool woven fabric for the apparel in

either solid colours of strips that may be rilled that may be

knitted or razed.

Bleaching

The process for improving the white ness of textile

material with or with out removing of natural colouring matter

and/or entraneous substances waxes oil, dust.

Bleaching Agents

A chemically reagent capable of destroying partly or

completely nature colouring matter present in textile material

and having them white and or considerably lighter in colour.

Bleeding

Loss of dye or coloured material in contact with liquor

leading to coloration of liquid or of adjacent areas of the same

or other material.

Blending

A process designed to produced a thorough intermixing

of different cotton fiber characteristics.

Blinding

A marked and undesirable loss of luster of fiber coused

by in appropriate wet processing.

Blind stitch

A sewing stitch that is not visible on the face of fabric

or garment.

Block Creeling

The simultaneous representation group of supply

packages e.g replacement of cans on drawing or simplex m/c.

Patterns

Which reflects the shape and posture of human body the

function of garments and type of fabrics. It also indicates the

design of garments i.e. which are style features such as collers

cuff and pockets

Braking Strength

Maxi tensile force recorded in extended or tested piece

of breaking point.

Britch (Wool)

The wool around the tails and lower part of sheep ofter

heavily stained.

Bulked yarn

A yarns that have been treated physically or chemically

so as to have a noticeably greater apparent valume or bulk.

Bulky Yarn

A yarn that has a apparent density of the filaments is

much lower than its real density the yarn has a diameter

larger then the indicator by the count. In comparison yarn of

the similar fiber dye.

Bunch

The aggregate of pieces which is tied up with two or

more ties preparatory to baling.

Burk

1. A wool trade term for wool imperfections.

2. Small lot or lump in a fabric.

3. Small cellulosic on synthetic fiber impurities in fabric

to remove an imperfection.

Imperfection

1. Thin places -50%

2. Thick places +50%

3. Neps +200%

imperfection index is the sum of thin places, thick places

neps and yarns hairiness.

Micronaire

It is defined as thickness of fiber.

Breaking Load

The load that develops the breaking tension (q v) it is

correctly expressed in Newton’s.

Breaking Elongation

The elongation at the breaking load (q v).

Burl Dyeing

The coloration at low temp.

1. cellulose impurities in dyed wool fabric cotton loops in

union fabric which wool is dyed.

Burling

A hand process associated with mending which involve

taking out from back of fabric or slubs or minor imperfection

trying out thick threads of warp and weft.

Burry Wool

Wool charged with vegetable impurities picked up by the

fleece.

Breaking Length

The theoretical length of specimen usually of yarn whose

weight exert force sufficient to break specimen.

Breaking Machine

A Machine for continuously soften and stiff fabric,

fabric is drawn under tension of bars.

Button

A knob or disc which can be attached to the garments as

a mean of fashioning.

Button Hole

The hole in which button is passed to close.

Calendar

A machine in which heavy roller rotate in contact under

mechanical or hydraulic pressure. The roller may be unheated

or heated or one may be thick walled steel shell heated

internally.

All the rollers may rotates at the same surface speed or

one highly polished and heated rollers may rotate at a then

rest.

Cambric Fabric

A light wt closely woven plane fiber usually given a slight

stiffening.

Camel Hair Or Fiber

The fiber obtained from fleece of camel is Known as

camel

fiber.

Camel Lot

This type of fabric is produced from cotton and wool.

Canvas

1. Fabric usually made from or made up of cotton

flex hemp or jute in wt (wave) traditionally from 200 to

2000g/m2.

2. The weave is plain or double and plain.

3. yarn are used generally single.

4. The warp is very close packing.

5. This is very strong fabric.

Scouring

Treatment of textile material in aqueous or other

solution in order to removed of waxes fats and proteins and

other constituents as well as dirty oil and other impurities.

Cap Wool

South African wool Marino type

Cap Spinning

A spinning system in which the spindles support a

stationary cap. The lower edge of which guides the yarn on to

the revolving

Spinning packages

Carbon Fabric

A manufacturing fabric means a synthetic or man-made

fiber containing at least 90% of carbon.

Carbonizing

A chemical treatment of cellulosic matter in order to

facilitate its elimination and mixture with other fibers.

Card Clothing

A Material Comprising a base structure and wire pins or

spikes (for carding machine) or protruding from one face.

Carded Yarn

A yarn produced from fibers that have been carded but

not combed.

Carding

The disentanglement of fibers by working them between

two closely spaced relatively moving surfaces clothed with

pointed wire, pins, spikes or saw teeth.

Woolen Carding

The production of subbing from blending tufts of fibers

suit able for spinning the tufts are carded to produce an even

weft or blend loosed fibers which is divided into ribbon or

uniform.

Carpet

A tex floor covery having textile used surface form from

yarn of fiber.

Carrier

1. A moving holder for one yarn package.

2. A type of excellent particularly used in dyeing or

printing

3. A fiber component i.e. blended with a main constituent

fiber to improve process behavior.

4. A Positively driven smooth metal roller set between

major drafting.

Cashmere Fiber

Originally hair from the fine under coat film Asiatic goat

with dia of 18.5 microns. Similar hair from animals bread

selectively from the goat population of Aus, Newz, Scotland, is

regarded as cashmere provided die is similar.

Cationic Dye

A dye that dissociates in aqueous solution to give a

positive charge coloured ion.

Caustic Zing

Treatment of callulosic fabrics with caustic soda sol of

such conc and under such condition that a full mercerization

effect is not obtained but coloured yield in dyeing or printing

is significantly enhanced.

Cheese

A cylindrical package of yarns cross wound onto a

flangeless support.

Chlorination

When used with reference to textile processing a term

indicating the reaction of tex material with chlorine. Chlorine

may be in the form of gas or it solution (in water) or it may be

obtained form suitable compound.

Circular Knitting Machine

A Knitting machine in which the needles are set radically

or in parallel in one or more circular such as, sets/dial/beds.

Cloudiness

1. A defects in webs and sliver consisting of areas of

different densities.

2. In a dyed fabric a defect consisting of random faintly

define un even dyeing.

Cockled Yarn

1. Isolated loops of fibers protruding from yarn surface.

Fiber that have previously been stretched during processing.

2. Loose fiber in surplus fabric is also known as cocked yarn.

Colour Fastness

The property of resistance to named agency e.g. washing,

light rubbing, croaking, gas fumes on its standard scale 5 grade

are usually recognize from 5 significant no visible change to 1

subtract change for light fastness. 8grades are used 8

representing the highest degree of fastness.

Colour staining

If transfer of cotton from a textile to other textile with

which it is in contact usually in web or damped condition.

Combed yarn

Yarn produced from fibers that have been carded and

combed yarn.

Compact Spinning

A modifically ring spinning system in which the fiber

strand confirmed in a main drafting zone is compacted or

condensed.

Composite Yarn

A yarn composed both staple and continuous filaments

components e.g. coarse per yarn in denim fabric.

Condition

1. The moisture present in textiles.

2. To allow textile fabric to come hygroscopic equilibrium

with surrounding atmosphere or with standard atmosphere for

testing

3. To add selectively small quantities of (H2O) water to

textile material. (Raw material, yarn, sliver and fabric).

Cone

A conical support on which yarn is wound.

Cap

A type of yarn package spun on the wool spindle.

1. A ring

2. A small cylindrical plastic tube.

Core Yarn

A yarn consisting of a number of components yarns of

which or more are concentrate to lie permanently at central

axis of final thread.

e.g Sewing thread consisting of central synthetic

filament yarn surrounded by cotton fiber.

Cotton wool

A fibrous product used medical or cosmetic purposes

which is made form cotton fiber.

Cotton Spun

A Term applied to staple yarn produced on machinery

originally developed for processing cotton into yarn. There is

known as cotton spun.

Count

A number indicating the mass per unit length or length

per unit mass of yarns is called yarn count.

Course

i. A row of loops across the width of that the

fabric.

ii. Around the circumference of circular fabric.

Crimp

i. the waviness of fiber is called crimp.

ii. The waviness or distortion of a yarn that is due to

interlacing in fabric.

Crinoline

1. A stiff fabric.

2. A stiff fabric mode of cotton yarn or horse hair.

Cross Dyeing

A dyeing of one component of a mixture of the fibers

after at least one of others has been dyed already.

Cuff

The lower part of sleeve of garments and also the

corresponding part of trousers and gloves. It may be consist

of single turn in or turn up. Section of sleeve material usually

secured by stitching or it may be separate section some times

of different material attached to lower edge of sleeve.

Combing

Straightening and paralleling of fiber and removing short

fiber, Neps and impurities by using a comb or combs assisted

by brushes and rollers, and sometime by knives.

Dead Wool

Wool taken from sheep that have died from natural

causes.

Degreasing

The removal of grease suint and extraneous matter from

wool by an aqueous or solvent process.

Denier

The weight in gram of 9000 meter length of a filament or

yarn.

Denim

A traditionally 3 single warp-faced twill cloth made from

dyed warp yarn and undyed waft yarn. A typical cotton

construction was 3/1 twill weaves. 32.19.45:54 etc.

Tex

The direct decimal system based on metric units that has

been adopted by textile committee of the (I.S.O) as the

universal system for describing the linear density of fibers,

yarns, filaments, slivers and yarns, it also name given to the

combination of grams per kilometers.

Textiles

Originally a woven fabric, a term is now applied to any

manufacture from fibers. Filaments yarns natural or man made

obtained by interlacing.

e.g cords, threads, ropes braids embroidery lace, nets

and cloth by weaving knitting felting, bonding and tufting are

taxtiles.

Design

The creative process leading to structure patterns and

colour in the taxtile material implemented to achieved a

esthetic appeal function and cast target.

Dip

1. An immersion of relatively short duration of a textile

in liquid.

2. The depth of the liquor in the inner cylinder of a

rotary washing machine .

Direct Dye

An anionic dye having substantively for cellulosic fiber

when normally applied from an aqueous dye both. Containing an

electrolyte.

Disperse Dyes

A class of water insoluble dyes originally introduced for

dyeing cellulose acetate and usually applied from equeous

suspensions.

Doffer

A person who remove the full packages or material from a

textile machine used in yarn manufacturing.

Doffing

The removal of material or packages of textile material

from the textile machine.

Drafting

The process of attenuating laps sliver, slubbings and

roving to reduce or to decrease the mass per unit length.

Drawing

Operation by which slivers are blended (or doubled),

leveled, and by drafting (qv) reduce to the stage of roving. The

term is applied exclusively to processing at one machine

namely, the draw frame in cotton section of textile industry.

Drape

A ability of fabric to hand in graceful to fold.

Drill

A twill fabric of similar construction to a denim, but

usually piece dyed.

Dry Clean

To remove grease oil, and dirt from garments or fabric

by any organic solvent treating . suitable solvent are white

spirit trichlorethylene and perchlorethylene.

Duck

A term used in Scotland to described the degree of

bleaching.

Dye

A colorant that has substantively for a substrate, either

inherent or induced by reactants.

Elastic Recovery

The immediate change in elongation experienced by a

textile during the loading cycle when after being held at a

defined elongation for a defined time, the applied tension is

reduced to pre-tension value.

Elasticity

The property of the material by virtue of which its tends

to recovered its original size and shape immediately

deformation.

Elongation

The increase in length of a specimen during a tensile test,

expressed in units of length.

Embroidery

This is a method of decorating a fabric by stitching a

design on it with needle and thread.

Fancy Yarn

A yarn that differs from the normal construction of

single and folded yarns, by way of deliberately produced

irregularities relate to an increased delivery of one or more its

components. Or to the inclusion of periodic effects such as

knops, loops, curls, slubs.

Fabric

A manufacturing a assembly of fiber and oblique or yarns

that have been substantial surface area in reaction to its

thickness and sufficient corrosion to give assembly the useful

mechanical strength.

Slub Yarn

A yarns in which slubs are present as a fault. In some yarn

he slubs are produced as to make a fancy yarn.

Snarl Yarn

A compound yarn that displays snarls or kinks projecting

form the core.

Fiber Fineness

Fineness of fiber and manufactured fiber is usually

expressed in terms of average linear density. The fineness of

animal fibers is usually expressed as the mean fiber diameter.

Fibro Graph

A graph showing a particular form of length distribution

of sample of cotton fiber statically it is term representing the

2nd integral of length intensity distribution.

25% this known as 2.5% S.L

50% this known as 50% S.L

S.L = span length

Floating Fiber Index

An indicating of %age of fiber not griped by either the

front or back roller of a drafting system. The index is called

F.F.I.

F.F.I= ⎥⎦

⎤⎢⎣

⎡−

−×1

)075.%50(2%5.2 x 100

Mean Length

Mean length of the fibers is sample of sliver or roving is

calculated of proportion of fineness of the fiber in sliver or

roving.

Span Length

The fiber extant which is exceeded by stated % age of

cotton fiber in sample determined via the fiber length

distribution obtained form instrument such as fibro graph,

HVI, AFIS.

Staple Length

The characteristics fiber length is sample of staple

fiber usually visual assessment for natural fibers.

Uniformity Index

A measure of length variation in sample of cotton fiber

determined by the length distribution obtained by instrument

such as fibro graph HVI. It is defined ratio of mean length and

upper half mean length expressed as %age.

UI = lengthHalfmeanUpper

lengthMean x 100

U.R

A measure of length variation in a sample of cotton fiber

Determined by the (fiber length distribution obtained) by

instrument such as fibro graph it is defined as ratio of 50%

span length to 2.5% span length expressed as a%age.

UR = 100.%5.2.%50

×LSLS

Finish

A process physical or chemical, applied to a substrate to

produce a desire effect smoothness, luster, glass, crease

resistance.

Filament

A fiber of indefinite length is called filament.

Fly

Waste fiber that is removed in during carding action and

fly off in atmosphere is called fly.

Finishing

Descriptive of processes. Physical or chemical applied to

a substrate to produce a desire effect.

Flat Knitting Machine

A welt-knitting machine having straight needle beds

carrying independently-operated latch needle.

Flat Yarn

An untexture multifilament yarn with a very low twist

sufficient folding only to maintain yarn coherence.

Flammability

The ability of a material or a product in a flame under

specified a test condition.

Friction Spinning

A method of open spinning which is used two surface

moving in opposite direction to insert twist into assembly

fibers a fiber position between them.

Gauge

A term is gives indication of no of needles per unit length

along the needle bed in current practice:

1. Yarn ct.

2. Needle /inch gauge.

3. coarse/inch of fiber.

High Valume Instruments

An integrated automatic system of cotton fiber

measurement of hardware soft ware and calibration procedure

for the rapid estimation for several fibers properties in the

single sample.

Hank

A textile material in coiled form.

Knit Wear

A term applied in the generic sense to all knitted outer

garments except stockings and socks pull over, jumpers

sweaters.

Hosiery

The knitted coverings for feet and legs, formally in U.K

Term was used in we generic sense. All types of knitted fabrics

and good made up there form.

Industrial Textile

Textile material and products and intended for end uses

other then none protective clothing house court. Furnishing

and floor covering.

Ingrain

Yarn spun from a mixture of fibers of different colours

where the mixing of coloured fibers is carried out at an early

stage.

Irish Lawn

A lawn fabric produced form fine linen yarn.

Jacquard Card

A punched card used to control a jacquard mechanism a

series of such cards strung together control the production of

required pattern.

Jean

A 2/1 single warp faced twill fabric used chiefly for

overalls casual where typical construction 35:24, 32 :21.

Jet Dyeing Machine

A machine for dyeing fabric in rope form in which the

fabric is carried through narrow trumpet by dye liquid

circulate at high velocity or a machine for garments dyeing in

which the garment of circulated by Jets liquid rather than by

mechanical means.

Jet Spinning

A system of staple fiber jet spinning which utilize and air

war tex. To apply the twisting during it formation. The air is

blown to one or more nozzle inclined with cylindrical yarn

passage.

Jigger

A dyeing machine in which in open width is transferred

repeatedly from one roller to another and passes each time

through a dye bath of relatively small volume jiggers are also

frequently used for scouring, bleaching and finishing.

Jute

The fiber obtained from the bast leyer of the plants.

Corchorous, capsularis and carchorus, olitorius.

Hemp

A coarse animal fiber with a wide lattice type medulla.

Which is shed form the skin at least once a year. It is often

shorter than fibers of the fleece has a long tip and when

completely shed, tapers sharply towards the root end.

Knitting M/C

A M/C for the production of fairies or garments by warp

knitting or welt loathing the different types of warp and weft

knitting m/c are classified and named primarily a cording to

1. The type of fabric or garments they are intended to

produce.

2. the type of needle used.

3. The format arrangement and activation of their needles or

needle beds.

4. The type of patterning cantering used.

These are few type of knitting M/C in textile circular knitting

M/C, cylinder lenillng machine, flat knitting M/C, garments

length knitting M/C, loop wheel knitting machine, (knit wear

M/C.)

Lawn

A faire plain women cloth of liner or cotton, mad in

various fine qualities to produce fine, sheer fabrics, various

finishes may be applied to fabric of this type, in which care

the cloth in lawn by the name of finish used e.g. organdie.

Lea

In cotton a length of 120 days is called

1. In cotton sense 120 yds.

2. In linlen 300 yds

3. In worsted 80 yds

Lint:

The main seed hair of cotton plant.

Linters.

Whole and broken lint fibers and fuzz fibers, which are

removed from the ginned cotton sad by a special ginning

process.

Loom

A M/C for producing cloth by the inter lacing of warp and

weft yarns OR a term for used for wearing

Luster

The also play of different intensities of light reflected

both secularly and diffusely from different parts of a surface

exposed to the same incident light. High luster is associated

with gross difference of this laird and empirical emircal

measurements of luster depend on the ratio of the internists

of reflected high for specified angle of incidence and viewing.

Matching

A process by which the amount of each color matter

present in a material is adjusted so that the final color

resembles that of a given sample as closely as passable.

A comparison of dyed sample of textiles of nominally the

same color.

Maturating

A cotton fibre characteristics which expresses the

relative degree of thickening of fibre were it is usually

estimated one of more several in direct lest which are ofter

used to discover having a maturity to some level.

1. Mature fibre is a fibre having a high degree of thickness.

2. Immature has a small degree of thickness

Madula

Portion of some animal fibre consisting of series of

cavities by the cell which collapse during growth growth

process.

Neppy yarn

A faulty yarn in which the incidence of nep occurs at

relatively high level to constitute a fault.

Mercerization

The lineament of cellulose textiles in yarn or fabric form

with concentrated sole of caustic alkali, where by the fibers

are swollen, the strength and dye affinity of material are

increased and their handle is modified.

Micro fibre

A fiber or filament of linear density below 1.0 d tex.

Micronaire value

A measure of cotton fibber quality which is an indication

of fiber specific surface micromere value is a function of both

fiber tanners and fibre maturing.

Model

A designated style in range of garments madein limited

number.

A designated sample garment.

Modeling

The direct parliament of fabric to stand or dummy or

body or manipulation or draping of a fabric to develop a design

as we can a garment.

Moisture content

The ratio mass of the mass moisture in a material to the

total moist mass. The ratio is usually expressed a percentage

an in calculated as follows. 100Massmoist

Mosit Dry - massmoist ×

TotalToTal

Motes

There are two broad categories of motes.

a. Fuzzy motes. The largest of this type of motes consist of

whole aborted or immature seeds covered with fuzz fibers the

development of which cased at a very early stage. Small fuzzy

motes originate as still further in the opening cleaning and

carding process.

(A price of seed coat with fairly long lint fiber attached)

A value taken to represent the acidity or alkalinity of sol

and defined also grithen of the reciprocals of the H ions

concentration or concentrated in sol value.

Pilling

Small accumulations of fibers on the surface of a fabric

pill can develop during wear are held to the fabric by an

entanglement with the surface fibers of the material and are

usually composed of the same fibers as those from which the

fabric is made.

Mule Spinning:

A M/C of spinning in which action of formation of gavn

e.g. that is drafting and one operation and wending on ribcage

in one another operation.

Neps:

A small knot of entangled fibers.

Nails

The shorter fibers separated from the longer fiber in

combing during the preparatory process before spinning.

Pilling test:

A test to asses the propensity the pills to an or retain on

subjected to specified condition:

Polyamide

A synthetic linear polymer in which linkage of the simple

chemical compound of its amide groups.

Polyester

A condensation polymer in which the simple chemical

compounds used in its production (commonly polyhydric alcohols

and poly carboxylic acids) are joined together by ester

lineages.

Poplin

A plain weave cotton type fabric with weft way ribs and

high warp sett. 48:24 ends

16to18 reed

Pressing

A process involving heating under moist or dry conditions,

carried out to confer a desired shape or size on a stocking or

other knitted garments.

Tenacity

The maximum specific stress that is developed in a

tensiple test taken t rupture.

Printing

When coloring of textile is done under some condition of

limitation is call printing.

Rayon fiber

A rayon fiber consisting wholly or mainly of regenerated

cellulose.

Reactive dye

Dye that under satiable condition is capable of reacting

chemically which a substrate to form a covalent dye.

Regain

The ratio of the mass of moisture in a materal to the

oven. Dry mass. The ratio is usually expressed as percentage

and is calculated as follows.

x100Massdry Oven

massdry oven -massmoist Total

Relative humidity

The ratio of actual pressure of the water vapor in the

atmosphere to the saturation pressure of water vapor at the

same temperature and some total pressure. The ration is

usually expressed as percentage.

Ring spinning

A continues system of spinning in cooperating ring and

traveler in which twist is inserted in to yarn on leaving the

delivery roller or Fr. Drafting roller. The yarns passes through

a guide. Arranged centrally about the top of ring spindle,

through a traveler on to a driven yarn package.

Roving

A name given individually or collectively to the relative,

fine fibrous strands used in the later or final processes of

preparation for spinning.

Silk

Protein filaments forming the cocoons produced by sub

worm.

Staring

Any adventitious (un wanted) color e.g. dye dirt, or iron

on textile material.

The fugitive or permanent coloring of material e.g. in

histology for identification.

Quality

Quality is something (standard) which meets the

requirement of the user or requirement of the customers is

known as quality.

Quality Control

Picking up different defective products or goods from

production line is called quality control.

Quality assurance

All those planned and systematic actions necessary to

provided add equality confidence that a produced or service

will satisfy given requirements of customer for quality.

Education

Education is define as changing in the behavior or person.

Total quality management

TQM Parameters are defined as the quality parameter

which we get to as quality level.

Chapter No 2

INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE BACK

GROUND

Seed Cotton

Cotton which has been harvested but not ginned so that

fibers is still attached to seed.

Types Of Cotton Harvesting Method

1. Hand Harvesting Method.

2. Spindle Harvesting Method.;

3. Strip Harvesting Method.

Hand Harvesting Method.

Most common method used for cotton harvesting

worldwide extensively.

Spindle Harvesting Mathod.

Most traditional method and the most common used in

the U.S.A spin, Greece, Israel and Australia.

A harvester passes two or three times over the same

Crop in one season. Seed varieties have a growth period of 150

to 160 days and the plant is taller.

Strip Harvesting Method

Practiced only in north texas, U.S.A. due to short

growing season. A harvester passes once over the Crop and

pulls all components, leaving the central stalk.

Seed varieties have a growth period of 120 days, and

plants are shorter due to the harshness and altitude of the

climate also, root systems are more extensive and plants are

resistant to adverse weather conditions.

Theoretical Ginning Efficiencies

Hand Harvested = 1200 Pounds seed cotton. Percentage

= 500 Pounds lint 41.66 %

= 600 Pounds seed 50%

= 100 Pounds Trash and Moisture 8.33%

Picker = 1700 Pounds seed cotton. Percentage

= 500 Pounds lint 29.41%

= 600 Pounds seed 35.29%

= 600 Pounds trash and Moisture 35.29%

Stripper = 2200 Pounds seed cotton.

= 500 Pounds lint 22.72%

= 600 Pounds seed 27.27%

= 1100 Pounds trash and Moisture 50%

Types of Seed Cotton Storage Systems

Following storage systems are of

1. Modules

2. Trailers

3. Ware House

4. Open stores (Go downs)

Modules

Most commonly used in the U.S.A. Israel and Australia.

Trailers

Most common system worldwide, becoming obsolete in the

U.S.A.

Ware House

Most common system in Europe.

Open Stores (Go downs)

Most common in developing countries with low rainfall. Go

downs also act as natural driers for seed cotton.

Chapter No 3

GINNING

Definition

A process in which fibers are separate from seed is

called ginning.

Small sticks, bast, broken balls, fuzze and immature

cotton are removed in this process to obtained good cotton

lints. Before ginning process, seed cotton is open turn by turn

by worker so that required moisture should be obtained for

good ginning process (5-8%).

Objectives of Ginning

1. Cleaning

2. Opening

3. Separation of seed

Types of Ginning

There are two types of Ginning

1. Roller ginning

2. Saw ginning

McCarthy Roller Ginning

It is used for processing long steple (s) and extremely

long staple (ELS) variations.

The CHURKA ROLLER gin was first developed in India in

the 17th Century and was the first mechanical gin. The

reciprocating Knife roller Gin was developed in the U.S.A in

1840 and is still manufactured in Turkey, India and still

Pakistan. Present day models have capacities of 50 to 80

pounds of lint per hour.

Principle

It is used for long cottons, seen cotton is placed in hopper

or box and the feeder bar pushes it into contact with roller.

This rotting roller takes hold of fibers and tries to take then

along with it. This fixed knife prevents the seed from passing

forward, thus they are held against the bottom edges of the

knife. The feeder bar neo moves back wards. In so doing it

strips the seed from the fibers. The fibers passed through

the rollers and fall into a suitable receptacle. The spares in

the grid not wide enough to allow the seed to fall through until

the lent has been stripped off, there fore the partly delinted

seed will be continually pushed into contact with the roller, by

reciprocating feeder bar until all the long fibers are removed.

The output of this type of ginning is 100 Pounds for a machine

of 40 inches wide.

Saw Ginning

ELL Whitney in U.S.A invented. It for processing medium

staple. In this type of ginning circular saws 12 inches in

diameter are used these saws rotate at about 600 rpm and saw

teeth take hold of fibers and attempt to take seed cotton

through the grid. The space are too narrow for seeds to pass

through the grid consequently the fibers and pulled from

seeds. It includes a saw between the two saws there is one rib.

The thickness of rib is ¾ inch, the space b/w the roller is less

than size of seed cotton. One saw has 264 teeths. It is used

for processing medium staple and short staple. It was invented

by Ell Whitney in the U.S.A in 1790. The principle of operation

remains unchanged now a day saw gin capacities of 13-15 bales

per hours.

The seed cotton as it is known after harvesting is ginned

for three times but only the lint from the first ginning is used

in normal cotton spinning. The linters from the second and

third ginning are used in waste trade.

Faults in Ginning

1. Care must be take sot that the fires are not cut,

thereby producing short fibers this is caused by ginning damp

seed cotton and in advance countries driers are used to bring

the moisture content to about 8%.

2. If the saw blades of saw gin are run too fast, cut

may result. Too much short fibers reduce the spinning

properties of cotton.

3. Neps may be formed by ginning damp cotton, it is

due saw blades or by feeding an excessive amount of seed

cotton to the gin at one time these causes a lot of difficulties

during further processing.

4. If the seeds are crushed during the ginning thy

will become with lint and must be removed during cleaning

process in spinning mill. Because of the greater amount of

cleaning which must then taken place the lint has a lower value

to spinner.

GINNING INDUSTRY IN PAKISTAN

In Pakistan mostly saw ginning is used. Roller ginning

produce long fibers but it is very slow process. In foreign

countries roller ginning is used. Ginning industry in Pakistan is

not advance and there is need to improve the old methods. The

condition of Pakistan ginning industry is as fallow.

Breaking up of ginning units in Pakistan during 1998-2000

Gins of 80 saws 229 4%

Gins of 90 saws 3590 65.5%

Gins of 100 saws 1537 28%

Gins of 110 saws 132 2.5%

Comparison of Pakistan ginning industry with international

ginning.

International Local

Power consumption per ton 100 k.w.h 141 k.w.h

Lent production per hour 13500 kg 3952 kg

Average speed 1200r.p.m 500r.p.m

Trash in bails 4% 9%

Cotton ginning in Pakistan

Ginning period 90-100 days

Numbers of ginning factories 1221

Active ginning units 65%

Total industrial capacity 20 million bails

Average production of gins 2 bails per hour

Phutty required for 100 baits 52000kg

G.O.T.(Ginning out turn) 33%

Machine technology status 1950”S

Average seasonal production 5000-10000 bails

Textile industry economic condition

Export 60% of total exports (5.2 billions$)

Manufacturing 6% of total exports

Employment 38%

Gross demotic production (G.D.P) 8.5% of total G.D.P

Investment 31%

Market capitalization 12% of total market

Uses Of Different Ginning By Products

Lints

Lints are used as the purpose of raw material in textile

industries for producing the yarn and further fabric. These

are very strong longer than linters.

Linters

Linter are short fiber, fuzzy hair, fiber remain on the

surface of seed cotton. A second ginning process removes

Cotton linters. They are used manufacturing of rayon, Acetate

plastic, shatterproof glass, photographic film and other

purpose.

Hull

Out of side portion of the cotton seed are obtains after

the linters have been removed. They are used fertilizer in

manufacturing of paper plastic and cattle feed and as a base

for explosives.

Inner Seed

The seed is major part of cotton. It is used as cotton

seed ail, which is cocking oil and compounds and in

manufacturing of soap. The residue of inner seed becomes

cattle feed.

Chapter No 4

TEXTILE PRODUCTION FLOW CHART

1. Textile raw material Natural/Man-made

2. Yarn manufacturing spinning/open end

3. Fabric manufacturing weaving/knithing

4. Textile processing

5. Garment manufacturing

RAW MATERIAL

Raw material represents about 50-75% of the manufacturing

cost of a short staple spun yarn. This fact indicates the

significance of raw material of yarn producer. Different types

of fiber are used as raw material in textile industries, which

are classified as under:

TEXTILE FIBRES

A. Naturla Fibres (Vegetable fibre, Animal fiber, mineral

fibre)

B. Man made fibres (regenerated fibres, synthetic fibre)

Natural Fibres

1. Vegetable Fibres.

Bast Fibres (jute, Flax, Hemp, Ramie)

Leaf Fibres (Sisal, Manilla, Raffia, Abaca)

Seed Fibres (Cotton, Kapok, Bombax, Colr)

2. Animal Fibres

Filament Silk

Staple Fibre (Wool, Hair Fibre)

3. Mineral Fibres

Asbestos, Silver, Gold, Copper etc.

Synthetic Fibres

1. Nylon

2. Polyester (Teylene, Dacron, Tetron0

3. Acrylic

4. Poly urethanes

5. Poly olefins

6. Poly vinl derivatives

7. poly viyl chloride

8. Polystrene

9. Poly vinyl alcohol

10. Poly tetra flouro ethylene

11. Poly acrylonitrile

REGENERATED FIBRES

1. Casein Fibres

2. Ardil Fibres

3. Viscose rayon.

4. cupramonium rayon

5. Cellulose acetate.

6. Algenate, Rubber & Silica.

COTTON

Cotton is the most important textile fibre. It is backbone

of world textile trade. Some three quarter of textile fabrics

are made from cotton. Different varieties of cotton are use

nowadays, most popular of them are Australian, American,.

Afghani Egyptian & Pakistani cotton.

Properties of cotton and relation with spinnibilty

Major characteristics of cotton regarding its spinning are:

FIBRE LENGTH

Fibre length, perhaps, the most important character of

cotton. It influences the yarn characteristics as well as

process settings. Fibre length is measured in terms of staple

length, span length & effective length. Longer the fibres:

Higher will be the sinnibiliy

Higher will be the resultant yarn strength because longer

fibres exhibit more surface contact with each other thus

increasing yarn strength.

Higher will be the evenness because the uniformity in dia.

Of longer fibres is more.

Higher the production because less T.P.I is required to

give sufficient strength.

Low yarn hairness due to less number of fibres per unit

length of yarn.

Better will be the feel due to less T.M.

UNIFORMITY RATIO

It is defined as:

U.R% = %5.2.100%50.

LSxLS

Lower uniformity ratio results in

Lower yarn evenness.

Higher yarn hairiness.

Following ratings are adopted for uniformity ratio:

Uniformity ratio Rating

Above 80 Uniform

76~80 Average

71~75 Slightly irregular

SHORT FIBRE %AGE

Generally short fibres are those having length shorter

than half of fibre staple length i.e less than 12.5 mm. These

are expressed as %n age of average staple length.

S.F % = )075.0%50.(2

100)1%5.2.(−−

LSxxLS

OR

)5.2%7.67.(3

100)975.0%5.2.(%.

−==

−=

LSLWhereL

xLSFS

Higher % age of short fibres will result in:

Lower spinning limit

Lower yarn strength

Less yarn luster.

Less yarn evenness.

More yarn hairiness.

Production losses due to higher end breakage & higher

T.P.I

Low selling rate due to inferior quality

FIBRE FINENESS

Fibre fineness sis one of most important characteristics

of cotton. The fineness determine how many fibres are

present in the cross section of yarn of given thickness.

Additional fibre in cross section provides not only a better are

needed minimum in the cross-section but there are usually over

hundred. Thus better fibre fineness results in:

Higher spinnibility

Better yarn strength

Better yarn evenness

Soft feel due to less T.M

Better quality and finer counts.

For cotton micronair is the estimation of fiber fineness. The

fineness scale is given below:

MIC. VALUE FINENESS

Upto 3.1 Very fine

3.1`3.9 Fine

4.0~4.9 Medium

5.0~5.9 Slightly coarse

Above 6 Coarse

FIBRE MATURITY

The cotton fibre consists of cell wall & lumen. The

maturity index depends upon the thickness of this cell wall.

Immature fibres have less strength & longitudinal stiffness,

resulting in:

Loss yarn strength.

Loss of production, due to poor yarn strength & breakage

in spinning department.

Variation in dye take up because fibre dye take depends

upon so immature fibres will absorb less dye & vice verca.

FIBRE STRENGTH

Strength is dominating characteristic of fibre. By

keeping the other parameters same, it seems that 50% of

total yarn strength depends on fibre strength. Single fibre

strength is measure in gram/tex & fibre bundle strength in

Lbs/inch known as pressley value. Grading can be carried out

in both cases because there is no direct relation between both

strengths.

Higher the fibre strength:

Higher will be the spinning limit of the cotton.

Higher yarn strengh.

Better luster due to less T.M

Better yanr touch due to less T.,M

Higher production due to less T.M

The relation between fibre tenacity & its bundle strength is

give below:

Tenacity (gm/text) = 5.36xp.I

Pressley (lbs./inch2) = {(10.8116xP.I)-0.12}x100

Where

mginwtBreakinglbsinloadbreakingIP

.. =

General grading of bundle strength & tenacity is as under:

PRESSLEY RATING

93 & above Excellent

87~92 Very strong

81~92 Very strong

81~86 Strong

75~80 Medium

70~74 Fair

Under 70 Weak

TENACITHY (gm/text) RATING

Upto 17 Very weak

18~21 Low weak

22~25 Average

26~25 Strong

30 & above Very strong

FIBRE ELONGATION

Elongation is specified as percentage of the starting

length. For different materials elongation is as follows:

Cotton 6~10%

Wool 25~45%

Polyester 15~20%

Higher fibre elongation will result in:

Less fibre damage in beating carding at different stages.

Less yarn breaking strength.

Better for weaving and knitting.

But there are also draw backs of more elongation. More

elongation make processing in spinning more difficult.

TRASH % AGE

In addition to useable fibres, cotton stock contains

foreign matter of various kinds:

Vegetable matter (Husk portions, Seed fragtments, Stem

fragments and Leaf fragments)

Mineral material (Earth, Sand, Ore, Dust, Coal Dust)

Other foreign matter such as metal fragments, cloth

fragment, packing material etc.

In Pakistani cotton it varies from 5~10% while foreign\ cotton

contains up to 3% trash only. The dirty cotton having more

trash demand heavy beating and cleaning actions, resulting in:

Fibre damage, that is loss of average fibre length.

Loss of fibre strength.

Ultimate lost of yarn strength.

Loss of yield %

Increase of IPI level fo yarn.

Contamination problem in the yarn.

MOISTURE % AGE

Standard moisture regain of cotton is 8.5% from

purchase and selling point of view. How ever for proper

opening, cleaning and drafting\ in blow room, carding and

subsequent processes more suitable moisture % age is adopted.

The amount of moisture required in department is very much

dependent upon the condition of the material in process, for

dryer cotton more moisture is needed and vice versa.

Recommended value of moisture in different department is as

under:

RECOMMENDED MOISTURE % (R%)

Mixing 7+0.5

Lap 5.5+0.5

Sliver 5+0.5

Roving 5.5+0.5

Ring 5+0.5

Winding 6+0.5

Packing 8 & above

Excess moisture % age will result in, improper opening, cleaning

and drafting causing higher imperfection level. On the other

hand, in case, lesser the moisture %age, there will be fibre

damage during beating, opening, cleaning and drafting, which

will result in yarn breakage, loss in yarn strength and

production will be reduced.

BLOW ROOM

Definition

It is the first department where we make the

foiundation of quality yarn. Blowroom is named because of the

use of air currents at various points it is initial stage and its

function are:

MAIN OBJECTS

The main objects of blow room are

1. Mixing/blending

2. Opening

3. Lap formation

1. Mixing

inter mixing of same fibre is called mixing.

2. Blending

A process designed to process a through inter mixing of

different bales, varieties of cotton. Different picking of

cotton, different area of cotton, different region of cotton

fibres which have different parameters. Different varieties

and different vales, different lots are blended together in the

blow room to get a homogenous mixing to avoid the different

faults of yarn which is produced in weaving department such as

shade, patta, barre etc.

Standard of micronaise value is upto 0.1 to 0.2 blending is

above to achieve the good yield and unfirom dy ability.

1. The blow room contributed only 5~10% to production

cat in the ring spinning mills.

2. less of raw material is big number or factor.

3. Blow room machines must eliminate foreign matter but

they can do. This only with the simultaneous elimination of

some of the good fibre.

1. Opening

Opening is the operation required, carried out to the

stage of flocks in the blow room and to. The stage of individual

fibres in the card flock weight can be reduced to about 0.1mg

in the blow room.

2. Cleaning

Blow room cannot eliminate all, or even almost all of the

foreign matter in the raw material. A blow room installation

removes approximately 40-70% of the impurities. The result is

dependent on the raw material, on the Mcs and on the

environment conditions.

(%)

100

WasteTotalATasWhere

xAT

AFATCE

=

−=

AF = good fibres eliminated (%)

e.g AT = 2.1% and Af= 0.65%

Best B/R line is ruter company.

%69.01001.2

65.01.2=

−= xCE

Rieter B/R line = 65-70% (Best0

Trust = 60%

Crosrol = 55%

1. The cleaning effect or each b/R M/C can certainly be

increased by appropriate adjustment. However improved

cleaning must be purchased at cast of high fibre loss in

addition to the stressing of the fibres, because every

elimination of foreign mater is accompanies by a simultaneous

elimination of good fibres.

The quantity of waste eliminated at a cleaning machine was

raised from 0.6% to 1.2% while the quantityt of foreign matter

eliminated increased by only 40% the quantity of fibres

eliminated increased by 240%. Normally, fibres represent

about 40-60% of blow room waste.

2. Blend. After this the different fibres are blended on

drawing frame to get a proper ratio (%age) of blended fibres

in the three stage of draining M/Cs (Breaker, inter and

finisher) like polyester and cotton, acrylic and cotton polyester

and viscose.

3. Even Feed of Material to the Card: Finally, the blow

room must ensure that raw material is evenly delivered to the

card. Previously. This was carried out by means of precisely

weighed laps from the scutcher, but automatic flock feeding

installation are increasingly being used while in the

introductory phase such installation were subjected to

problems regarding evenness of flock delivery, today they

generally operate well, or at last adequately.

Every M/Cs are electronically controlled even feeding from

blow room to card. (mixing/blending is made on the base of

following fibres characteristics such as:

1. Fibre length

2. colour

3. mcironaire value

4. bale by bale

5. Trash in cotton

Blending is done to achieve a good yeiled and uniform dye

ability of yarn.

MULTIPLE MIXER OR MULTI MIXER

The machine or multi mixer comprises several or

different (6-8) adjacent chute chambers in which the material

is blown from above through automatic damper.

The chutes are filled successively with material through

automatic damper and material is removed from all chutes

simultaneously or material is delivered from all chutes

simultaneously. This gives a good long term blend. Ejection of

flocks on to a collecting convyer is by take off and beating

rollers under the chutes. The filling height is held fairly

constant (never ending) by feelers. Machines are available with

filling heights of 2, 3 and 4 metals.

FORMATION OF LAP

The scutcher operates with only one perforated drum. A

compact lap forms on this drum in a single layer. Older

scutchers operate with two resforated drum arranged one

above other. These machines always form two lap layers which

are pressed against each other and which can peel apart.

1. Chute feed system is adjusted to electronical control

though pipe and is attached with hopper of card M/C

2. The card is the heart of spinning mill.

3. Higher carding rate would generate more neps in sliver

and ultimately in yarn and it will lead in low quality of the

sliver.

4. Fibre damage at card would reduced the yarn

strength.

5. Production rate of card M/C is about 100Kg/hour

CARDING

Definition

The blow room process opens the compressed bales of

cotton into small tufts of cotton and removes 75% of trash

present in the cotton the feirre to fibre opening and machine.

Thus carding very important machine the spinning process and

is called as heart of spinning.

< 10/9Nec production range 80 kg – 100kg/hr

16/s production range 65-70 kg/hr



40 production range 45-50 kg/hr

TASK OF CARDING M/C

Carding is very important in manufacturing of yarn to

other activity in the mill.

1. Opening of individual fibres.

2. Elimination of impurities. Mainly occurs in taker in

zone only small part of contaminants carried out with flat

stripping degree of cleaning of the modern carding is greater

then 95%.

3. Degree of cleaning blow room and carding is upto 99%.

Card sliver still contain 0.5-0.3% of contamination.

4. Elimination of Dust: in addition to free dust which can

be directly sucked in the blow room but more portion of card is

removed because of micro fibre or particles. That are bound to

fibres and those are removed due to fibre and matel or

fibre/fibre friction. Thus carding is a good dust removing

machine.

Disentanglement of Naps

Neps produced or increases in blow room. The card

reduces the remaining No of small friction. Cared eliminates

neps but actually card opened these entangled fibre.

Elimination of Short Fibre

Short fibres can easily only be eliminated. If they are

pressed in to clothing since that it is not possible with metallic

clothing. The ability to select short as opposed to long fibres

is based on the fact that long fibres is based on the fact that

long fibres have more contact with the clothing of main

cylinder of card then short fibres longer fibres are continually

caught and carried along by the main cylinder. Short fibres on

the other hand, offer less surface to the clothing of the main

cylinder. They therefore stay caught in the flats clothing,

press into it and leave the machine in the flat stripping.

Card Clothing or Metallic wire

These are continuous self supporting flat wire structure

in which teeth are cut at the smallest possible spacing by a

process resembling a punching operation. If the teeth are

relatively large, for example as in the taker-in, then the

clothing is referred to as same tooth clothing. The taker-in,

main cylinder and doffer are without exception clothed with

metallic clothing’s.

(Angle, density, distance between the wire point)

FIBRE BLENDING

The card improves long term blending since the residence

time of the material or fibre in the M/Cs in too short however,

it improves transverse blending because apart from the OE-

spinner the card is the only machine to process individual

fibres. In formation of the web and with repeated rotation of

the fibres on the main cylinder, intimate fibre with fibre

mixing is achieved.

FIBRE ORIENTATION

The card object is parrallelizing. This is not completely,

since the fibres in the web are not prallel, although they do

have, for the first time, a degree of longitudinal order a

parallel condition is achieved on the main cylinder, but it

disappears during formation of the web between the cylinder

and they doffer. Thus the card can be given the trash of

creating partial longitudinal orientation of fibres.

Sliver Formation

In order to be able to deposit the fibre material, to

transport it and process it further, an appropriate inter

mediate product must be formed. This is the sliver. In

extreme cases, card sliver has a lauk of 3 k tex or 6 k tex. The

product may be mad in sliver forms in a card sliver loose rope

form.

OPERATING PRINCIPLE

In modern installations.

1. Raw material is supplied via pipe ducting into feed

chute of the card.

2. An evenly compressed batt of about 500-900n k tex is

formed in the chute.

3. a transport roller forwards this material from the balt

to the feed arrangement. And

4. This consists of a feed roller and a feed er plate

designed to push sheet of fibre slowly in to the operating

range of taker-in.

5. While maintaining optimal clamping the portion of the

sheet proceeding from the feed roller must be combed

through and opened to flocks by taker-in.

6. These flocks are passed over grid equipment and

transferred to the main cylinder.

7. Suction ducts carry away the waste. The flocks

themselves are carried alongwith the main cylinder, paratrate

in to flat.

8. In moving past mote knives, grids, carding segments.

9. Material losses the greater part of its impurities.

10. And open up to individual fibres between these two

devices in the actual carding process. The flates comprises 80-

116 individual carding bars combined into a band moving on an

endless path some 40-45 of the flats are located in the

carding position relative to the main cylinder, the rest are on

the return run.

11. During this return, a cleaning unit strips fibres neps

and foreign matter are being removed from bals.

12. Fixed carding bars and are designed to assist the

operation of the card. The underside of the main cylinder is

enclosed by grids or cover plates.

13. After the carding operation has been completed. The

main cylinder carries along the fibres that are loose and lie

parallel with out looks, in this condition fibres do not form

transportable intermediate product.

14. An additional cylinder, the doffer is required for this

purpose, the doffer combines the fibres into wet because of

its substantially lower peripheral speed relative to the man

cylinder.

15. A stripping device drews the web from the doffer.

After calender.

16. Rollers have compressed the some extent .

17. the coiler deposit it is comes in the form of coiled

sliver.

MAJOR PARTS OF CARDING M/CS

There are some major parts of carding M/Cs as under.

1. Feed roll

2. Taker-in

3. Cylinder

4. Doffer

5. Coiler

6. Flats

TENDOM CARD

The name of Tendom card consist of two individual cards

jointed together to make up a unit, in which the doffer of the

first card feeds fibre material to the taker-in of the second

card. Double carding of raw material has a positive effect on

quality and on blending. However, these advantages are

purchased at the cost of expense in hardware and main balance

and additional space is required.

IRREGULARITY OF FEED MATERIAL

The card is the first machine to deliver a cohesive

intermediate product among other requirement, the product is

expected to be very even and as far as possible free of faults

irregularities in the sliver can be traced through into yarn, at

least in the spinning of carded yanrs that is they diminish yarn

quality.

CARD DETERMINE YARN QUALITY

A faulty free sliver cannot be obtained unless feed stock

is in an adequate condition. Since every irregularity in the feed

stock is transmitted completely in to the sliver in an alongated

form owing to the draft. The residence time of the material in

the machine is too short for a compensation effect. In

spinning, as in all other types of manufacturing process. The

rule must be that faults should not be corrected and hidden

but their occurrence should be prevented from the start.

AUTO LEVELER

A electronic automatic device that is fitted to back of

carding and drawing M/C which schamier observed the C.r or

S.D of feeding material and massage to drafting roller by mean

of change the speed of back drafting roller and to controlled

or to reduced the S.D or CV of linear jdensity of out put

material, the resultant is deliveried by that M/Cs linear

density if the necessary draft to compensation.

DRAFT

It is defined on, the measure of attenvation of material

with out breaking its continuity.

1. It is also defined as reduction of weight or mass/unit

length.

2. It is also defined as, increase in length per unit mass.

3. It is defined as reduce the dia of the feeding M/C

draft = weight of feed material/weight of deliver M/t

Weave Length

Variation produce which is introduced in fault is sliver

indicate 1 , 2m ut-4 (testing instrument is tested in the CM to

CM statistical dia of sliver base on the statistical data. Those

instrument gives us that fault which is introduce din the sliver

created also rough surfaces of trumpet can be created

irregularity in the sliver.

Feed Method

There are two method applied for feeding of raw

material to card M/C such as:

1. Lap or flock feeding

2. Chute feed system.

Chute Feed System

Chute is common feeding system used in carding section,

the central distributor apparatus in the flock feeder. The

server for gentle opening of raw material and continual

delivery into the ducting. Feed of flocks from blow room to

kirschner beating point is carried out by means of the suction

cage.

1. Feed chute and

2. Feed roller

As suction duct takes flocks away and delivers them to the

ring duct of the cards. Excess material is returned to the

distribution duct by way of the return duct, the second chute

and the leirschner beater. The flock feeder is followed by the

aerofeed installation itself.

Usually five to eight (5~8) cards are connected with one

feeding system depends upon the production required. The

cards are orientated in the longitudinal direction.

PARTS OF M/CS

1. Taker-In

This is a cast roller with a diameter usually around

250MM. A saw tooth clothing is applied to it. Beneath the

taker in there is an enclosure of grid elements or carding

segments.

The purpose of the taker-in is to pluck finely opened

flocks out of the feed batt, to lead them over the dirt

eliminating parts under the roller and then to deliver them to

the main cylinder. In high performance cards, rotational

speeds lie in the range 800-1500 pm (Mostly 700~100 Pm) for

cotton and 400-600 rpm for synthetics.

The material through put.

Two main object of taker-in are as under below.

1. Fibre opening

2. Elimination of waste.

Transfer to the main cylinder

Between the taker-in and main cylinder clothing are in

doffing disposition. It follows that the opening effect at this

position cannot be very strong. The effect depends on the

ratio of the speed of the two devices. According to the various

investigation. This ratio should be 1:2 tjat os the draft

betweem the taler-in and main cylinder should be lightly more

than 2.

Additional Carding Segment

Carding aid can be applied at three positions under taker-

in.

1. Between taker –in and flails

2. Between flat and doffer.

3. Cylinder and taker-in

The Cylinder

The cylinder is usually manufactured from castirion, lout

is now some times made of steel. Most cylinders have a

diameter of 1280-1300MM and rotate at the speed between

250 and 50 to 800 rpm.

The roundness tolerance must be maintained within

extremely tight limits. The narrowest setting distance

between cylinder and doffer is only about 0.1 MM.

Tye cylinder is generally supported in roller bearings.

FLATE

Together with the cylinder, the flats form the main

carding zone. Here the following effects should be achieved.

1. Opening of flocks to individual fibres.

2. Elimination of remain impurities.

3. Elimination of some of the short fibres.

4. Untangling neps (possible their elimination dust

removal)

High degree of longitudinal orientation of the fibres. In order

to fulfill all these requirements, a large continuous carding

surface is needed. The surface is created by a larg enumber of

individual clothing strips secured to the bars of the flates and

arrange in succession. 40-46 such strips commonly used (30 in

trutzschler machines) to make up the carding surface in the

operative position.

Since elimination can be carried out only by filling of the

clothing, the flats must be cleaned continuously. They must

their for be moved so as to be guided past a cleaning device.

The bars of the flats must be joined together to form an

endless, circulating band for which purpose they are fixed to

chains. In addition to the 40-+46 flats that are in operative

relationship to the cylinder, further flates are needed for the

return movement on the endless path. So that altogether 400-

1200 flats (so in trutzschler in fitted to chains.

Doffer

The cylinder is followed by the doffere which is designed

to take the individual fibre from the cylinder and condense

them to a web. The doffer is mostly formed as a cast iron

drum with diameter of about 600-707MM (500MM in crorrol

and rieter M/Cs). It is fitted with a metallic clothing and runs

at speed up to about 300MM/Min

Coiling in cans

The sliver must be coiled in cans for storage and

transport with large windings in smaller cans and small windings

in larger cans. Can diameter now lie in the range 600-120MM

and can hights are between 1000 and 1220MM. If the cans are

supplied directly to the rotor spinning M/Cs. They must be

smaller because of the lower amount of space available. The

can diameter in this case is only about 350 to 400MM.

The Drive

Conventional cards have only on drive motor. This drives

the taker-in and cylinder directly via belts and the other

moving parts indirectly via belt and gear transmissions. Modern

high performance cards differ in that they include several

drive so that the individual regions of the card are driven in

dependently of each other.

DRAWING FRAME

Drawing is; an operation by winch slivers are blended, doubled

or leveled and by drafting reduced to proper sized sliver

suitable of being fed to the simplex.

Draw frame contributes less than 5% to the production cost, of

yarn, however its influence on quality of yarn is significant. Draw

frame process considerably influences the final product, as

draw is last point of compensation for the elimination of

errors produced by subsequent m/c. the inadequacies in the

sliver leaving the draw frame pass in to the yarn and are

reinforced py the drafting after the draw frame that is why

yam can never be better in evenness than the sliver.

Tasks Of Pr A W Frame

Following are the main functions performed by the draw frame.

Improving evenness:

One of the main task of draw frame is to improve evenness;

over short medium and especially long term variations. card

sliver fed to; draw frame I has a degree of evenness that can

not be tolerated and it needs to before I any further; process,

thus draw frame improves its evenness.

Evenness is mainly improved by doubling of different

slivers and the modem draw frames by using Auto leveling

along with the doubling. The draft and the doubling have the

same vales usually.

Paralleiimtion:

To obtain optimum value for strength in the yarn

characteristics, the fiber must be arranged parallel in the

fibrous strand. the drawing process is responsibly for the

parallelization of the fibers along the sliver axis. The

paralleling! effect is due to the straightening of the zibers.

Blending:

In additioiji to improving evenness doubling also provides an

opportunity of mixing an it blending of the fibers. It is the first

stage at which we are able to blend different types of m/t. such

as cotton and polyester blends. At the draw frame the selection

of the no. of slivers and grains per yard of sliver entering in to

them/c can be easily carried out to obtain the required

blend

Rust removal

Dust removal can only be carried out to significant

degree when there are high levels of fiber to fiber and fiber

to metal friction, since large fraction of particles adheres

strongly to the fibers. In the draw frame due to inter fiber

friction and friction to the drafting rollers the dust can easily

be collected through the suction ducts. Modern draw frame is

equipped with the suction system which remove 85% of

incoming dust.

Important parts of draw frame and their functions

CREEL PORTING:

In the old draw frames the sliver were taken out of can simply

by the pulling action of (the drafting rollers, so there was the

chance of false drafting. While on the modern drawing frame

(his all has been discouraged by use of power creels. Each

sliver is taken out and guided to drafting zone with the help of

creel rollers.

ELEJCTRIC ROLLERS:

These are also called as assisting rollers. They have a plain

metallic surface and provide an easy passage to slivers towards

the main drafting zone.

DRAFTING ROLLERS:

For draft purpose we need a pair of drafting rollers,

comprising of top and bottom rollers.

Bottom q rafting rollers

These are steel made and are mounted in roller stand or in the

frame by means of the needle, roller or ball bearing. They are

+velly driven from the main geaf" transmission. In order to

improve their ability to carry the fibers along they are formed

with flutes.

Top drafting rollers: These are levelly driven by the bottom

rollers and also these are rubber; coated. I these rubber

coats are made of harder synthetic rubber and have a

certain degree of hardness. For proper drafting a pressure is

applied on top rollers. Also (here is suction arrangement on

each pair of drafting roller for removing! the dust.

TRUJMPET GUIDE:

Due to drafting the material is converted in to ribbon form,

having a web of 6-7 inches. This web is collected and

condensed to form a single sliver by means of trumpet guide.

The dia of trumpet guide is less as compared to card m/c coilef

trumpet guide and it can be changed according to requirement.

V CALENDER ROLLERS:

After transforming the web in to a circular sliver form it is

readily subjected to calendaring action for consolidation &

condensing. So projecting fibers are pressed towards the main

strand. The calendring rollers are provided with the flutes for

better control over the sliver.

SLIVER LENGTH MEASURING MOTION:

In order the get req. length of m/t in one can, you can set the

length on counter meter which is digital. One digit indicates

10 yards of sliver. The counting meter gets sensation from a

counting device, which are thin metallic strip, revolving and

crossing the light in each turn. It gets drive from the calendaring

rollers through a train of gears.

AIJTCJ) CAN CHANGER:

Modern high performance draw frames are usually fitted with

automatic can changer* When the counter meter reading is

achieved it means the cans hkve collected the req. length. At

this stage the main motor is stopped automatically and can-

changing motor is sensed to start. This drives |an endless

lattice upon which, beside full cans, empty cans are placed |

behind, comes exactly under the coiler. At this stage the can

changing motor is stopped by the limits on the lattice.

After of can iphange Stop motion for lapping around the calendar

ro ler. Motor the main motor is.again started.

the stoppage

STOP MOTIONS:

Stop mption for lapping around the drafting rollers.

Creels stop motion for sliver breakages.

Stop niotion for stopping the m/c if the sliver starts

gathering Stop motion for stoppages caused by the sliver choked

at coiler wheel top.

Combing

This process is design to removed short fibers.

Task of combing M/Cs

1) To remove the short fiber

2) To remove the neps

3) To remove remaining imprison

4) To produce cleanliness and more even yearn.

5) To increase strength, smoothers and leanness and usual

appearance.

6) Able to spin at low twist

7) To avoid spiraled in end.

8) Product micromere

9) Increase in level of penalization when the fiber intended for

fine yarn, the sliver is put through an additional operation, fine

tooth combs continue to straightening the fiber unit they are

arranged such high degree of parallelizing that short fiber

called noils are completely removed this process is man- made

staple because they are already cut into predetermined length.

Sine these fibers do not need springing they are process for

spinning in to yarn by direct spinning the combing process

forms a comb. Shiver which is made of longest fibers which is

result produces a smoother and more even yarn, this dominates

as much as 25% of original card slivers. 1/4 of raw cotton

becomes waste. It enhance 20% production cast. The combing

is carried according to customer requirements since long staple

yarm produces stronger and more even yarn.

Main parts of combing M/C

1. Cylinder

2. Top comb

3. Attaching & detaching roller

4. creel

5. Coiler head

ROVING FRAME

Sliver from the drawing frame are generally in hank for

immediate presentation to spinning frames for further

drafting and twisting in to the yarn. The untwisted strand of

fiber is hairy and tends to create fly. The needed to convert

this sliver in to yarn is in range of 200-500 the drafting

arrangement is available on current ring frame is not capable

of processing this strand in single drafting operating. A fine

twisted roving is significantly better suited for this purpose

another reason for using simplex is that the drawing frame

cans represents the worst conceivable mode of transport and

presentation of fed m/t ring frame.

TASKS OF ROVING FRAME

There are three main task of roving frame

Attenuation of sliver through the drafting process

To given strength to fiber strand through twisting

Winding of M/t for presentation of the ring section

Different Parts of Roving frame

1. Spindle

2. Flyer

3. Presser Arm

Drafting Mechanism

Drafting is based on the principle there should be

difference in the surface speeds of drafting rollers. I.e

Draft = lleredofbackroSurfacespe

Surface rollerrornt of speed

Drafting is given in the range of 5-20 on the roving

frame in order to reduce the load on ring frame because there

are limitations on the ring frame regarding the amount on ring

frame regarding the amount of draft to be given. Hence sliver

are given a draft to prepare for spinning frame draft. SKF 4/4

PK-1500 is the drafting system provided on the roving frame,

in which there are three drafting zones. First zone provides

the tension draft, second bread draft and third zone gives the

major draft according to the requirement.

Twist calculation:

TPI= TM HR×

Ring frame

From the dawn of the history of the production of the

yarn has been done with the help of spindle. During last two

centuries various types of spinning systems come and gone but

on one has been able to replace the ring spinning.

In the ring spinning frame the strand of fibers delivered

by font drafting rollers is twisted by using revolving traveler

on the ring track. This yarn delivered is then wound on the

bobbin.

The ring spinning system is widely used in world due to

following reasons:

It universally applicable i.e. any material can be spun

to any required fineness.

It delivers a yarn with optional characteristics

(especially regard to structure and strength).

It is uncomplicated and to manage.

The “Know How” for operation of the machine is well

established and assessable to every one.

Taks of ring frame

1. Drafting

2. Twisting

3. Package formation

Important part of frame

1. Ring 2.Traveler 3.Spindle and

bolster

4.Traveler clearer 4.Spacers 5.Aprons

6. Spindle tape

Draft is = lleredofbackroSurfacespe

Surface rollerrornt of speed

TPI = TM Ct×

Auto cone

Basic function of winding machine is the transfer of yarn

from a number relatively small ring bobbins on to a big wound

package suitable for transport further processing. The winding

machine also ensures the continuity of the yarn from these

packages be proper knotting or piecing. The 2nd important

function of winding function of winding machine is the removal

of spinning faults, usually quite common in the ring common in

the ring bobbins, these faults include thick and thin places,

neps bad piecing, soft ends, loose lint and sloughing off, etc.

Packing

When the material is prepared in form of cones they are

taken to the packing room before the that they are checked in

the dark room under ultraviolet rays in order to differentiate

the smoky yarn and the goods quality yarn, if yarn is of good

quality i.e. given O.K. and is placed in the packing room, and is

placed there for 24 hours temperature is maintained as given

blow.

Dry temperature 92F

Wet temperature 88F

Moisture 8.2%

The following are the requirement of a packing department.

Very clean atmosphere

Required % age of humidity and temperature

Skilled labor for packing

A good quality packing material

Specification

1. Cone weigh 4.17 Ibs

No. of cone of in bag 24

Full bag weight 100 Lbs

2. Con weight 2.5 Lbs

No. of cone in bag 40

Full Bag weigh 100 Lbs

Yarn measurement & calculation

Count is defined as count number is inversely proportional

to the thickness of yearn.

Indirect system

Count:

No. of length units in a defined weight unit

One hank of yearn is equal to 840 dys.

Count= 33.8grain in ass

ydin ×

Mlenght

Metric count

It is defined as the length unit is I kilometer and weigh

unit is I kilogramme there fore

Count = Gmin

Metter in Mass

Length

Direct system

Count is defined as mass per unit length

Denier

Mass in gms of 9000 meters length to continuous

filament of yarn.

Count = 9000Meterin

Gm. ×

lengthMass

Tex

It is direct system, and number of gms. Which one

kilometer length of yarn weigh is its count. In tex.

Count = gKOr in tex 1000metter in length gmin

×wt

Production data of yarn

Coarse count= 10-20/s

Medium 20-40/s

Fine 40/s above

Super fine 80-120 above 60/s

Warping section

Yarn packages prepared on winding machines in the

form of cheese or cone, they are placed on the back v type

creal or H type creel on to wooden peg, each end or garn is

then threaded through its own tensioning and electronic stop

motion device and passes through guide to the front of the

creel where they are brought together to form the warp

spaced by placing in to dents of an expanding comb or reed

before they are wound on a big double flanged bean known as

wrapper beam.

The capacity of creel at high speed warping (Beninger)

is generally for running 1248 cores (1400 to 600 ends).

High speed warping M/c operates at high speed from

900m/min to 1200/min the machine are provided with a power

fully and efficient brake which is automatic automatically put

in action as soon as the machine stopped by the action of

automatic thread stop motion it is for to get warp high

percentage of loom shed deficiently by removing the following

faults from yarns passing through (1) slough (2) time place (3)

less twist (4) slubs (5) bad piecing etc .

Tension on yarn passing through guide from creel is

set according to the required count.

Sizing section

Function of this process is to apply size on warp

thread at the ends of this process weaver beam in produced.

Sizing process is apply a protective film to the body of the

yarn. It protect yarn by various stresses strain and abrasion

resistance during weaving.

Objective of sizing

1. Sizing is done to increase the strength of warp yarn or

thread.

2. To maintain the elasticity of warp thread

3. Pliability or bend ed ability of warp thread

4. to improve the weave ability of warp thread.

Drawing in section

Function of this process is to pass the warp thread

through heald wire and seed according to required design.

Looming in

Function of this process is to load and fixed to drawn

in weaver beam on to loom and thread the warp sheet in such a

way that loom become ready for weaving.

Knotting

Function of this process is to tie or twist the threads

of exhausted beam to the threads of fresh beam,

Weaving

The interlacement of two group of thread lines at

right to teach other is called weaving.

Two thread bars or lines.

1. Warp

2. Weft

Looms motions

1. Primary Motions

2. Secondary motions

3. Auxiliary Motions

Primary Motion

These are very essentials for weaving and consist of.

i. Shedding Motion

This motion separates warp sheets into two groups so as the

make a gap for insertion of pick.

ii. Picking

This motion passes a weft thread through shed

iii. Beating

This motion pushed a newly inserted pick to the fill of cloth.

2. Secondary Motion

These motions are make the weaving process continuous.

i. Let off motion

The function of this motion is to unwind warp thread from

weaver bear in such a way that warp is presented to weaving

area under control tension.

ii. Take up motion

The function of this motion is to wind the woven cloth on to

cloth role a specified.

3.Auxiliary motion

This motion is consist of

i. Warp break stop motion

ii. Weft break stop motion

iii. Warp replenishing motion.

iv. Warp protector motion

v. Multiple shuttle box motion

Type of looms

Following M/cs are used to manufacturing woven fabric such as

i. Shuttle Looms

ii. Shuttle less looms

iii. Repier looms

iv. Projectile looms

v. Air jet looms

vi. Water jet looms

Knitting process

A technique for making fabric out of yarn by drawing

yarn loop through loops of the fabric

Walls: loop lines length wise in the fabric

Courses: loop lines width wise in the fabric

Basic weave

There are basic weave used to produce required design in

to the woven fabric such as

i. Plain weave

ii. Twill weave

iii. Satin weave

iv. Sateen weave

Designs are depend upon the tappet shedding dobby

shedding and jacquard motions there are present derivatives

of the above weave.

i. Tappet

ii. Dobby

iii. Jacquard

Plain weave

The unit of women fabric is the point of intersection of a

warp and a weft pick the inter lacing being of two possible

kinds, warp over weft , warp under weft, in either case the

interlocking is achieved by manipulation of the ends a number

of these interlacing combined together in both directions

produced a unit of design or one repeat of weave.

The simple weave which can constitute a cloth required,

two ends and two picks as a repeat of design is known as plain

weave.

8 8

Dent:

The unit of reed comprising a reed wire and a space

between adjacent wires.

Twill Weave

A weave that repeats on three or more ends and

produces diagonal lines on the face of the cloth.

Twill Weave

2/2 . 1/3 order

8 8

Drafting order

Drafting order is the arrangement (Order) of warp yarn

as they pass through heald wire of different heald shaft or

frame.

Twill 2/3

5 5

123 Drafting order

Design

45

Sateen twill weave

In sateen twill weave weft is prominent on face of the

face of the cloth

Satin twill weave

A fabric made in satin weave in satin twill design warp is

prominent on the face of fabric.

Tappet shedding

A plain design mechanism attached to a loom to control

the design according to the required design by using the head

shaft wire and heald frame.

Dobby shedding

A mechanism attached to a loom for controlling the

movement of the heald shafts. It is required when the number

of heald hafts or the number of picks in a repeat of pattern or

both are beyond the capacity of tappet shedding.

Jacquard mechanism

A shedding mechanism attached to a loom that given

individual control of up to several hundred warp threads and

this enables larger figured design to be produced.

Jacquard card

A punched card used to control a jacquard mechanism. A

series of such cards strong together control the production of

the required patterns.

Pirn winding

Function of this process is to wind weft yarn on pirn. Pirn

is a bobbin which fits in to shuttle box and supply weft yarn.

Grey cotton fabric

These fabric are produced from grey yarn which is

available in cone form.

Yarn dyed cotton fabric

Those type cloth which are made from dready dyed yarn

are called yarn dyeing cotton fabric.

Denim fabric

In denim fabric warp yarn is used as solid colored yarn

while weft is used as grey yarn.

Layout of grey cotton fabric

For warp

High speed warping→sizing → drawing in→ looming in→

knotting in → weaving

For weft

Pirn winding

Layout of yarn dyeing fabric

For warp

Yarn dyeing → sectional warping → sizing → drawing in →

looming in→ knotting → weaving

For weft

Mostly used for weft package are cone cheese and pirn winding

Lay our of denim (sheet dyeing type)

For warp

High speed warping→ warp sheet dyeing → sizing → drawing in

→looming in → knotting → weaving

Denim rope dyeing type

For warp

Ball warping → rope dyeing → rebeaming→ sizing → drawing in

→ looming in → knotting → weaving.

Chapter No 5

Textile chemistry

It is branch of industrial chemistry which deals with the

chemistry of coloring material and textile materials.

The general term used in textile industry for textile

chemistry is wet processing which refers to various pre-

treatment dyeing, printing and finishing techniques that import

value added enhancing to textile.

Wet processing

Wet processing consists of steps whose sketch diagram

is given.

Grey fabric → pre-treatment process→ dyeing & printing →

garments/made ups → finishing

Pre- treatment process

It consists of following steps.

1. Shearing and singeing

2. desizing

3. Scouring

4. Bleaching

5. Mercerization

Singeing

A burning process carried out to remove the projecting

fibers from cloth

Shearing

A cutting process carried out to remove the projective

fiber the cloth

Objective of singeing /shearing

1. Shearing off or burning off all fibers on the surface of

cloth.

2. To increase the reflection of light from cloth surface

3. To eliminate the unclear vision of fabric design

4. To reduce the pilling in case of blends

5. To improve the wear and end uses properties

6. To reduce difference of dyeing shade.

Machine used for singeing

1. Plate singeing Machines

2. Roller singeing machines

3. Gas singeing machines

Designing

A process carried out to remove the sighing material

for the cloth.

1. To eliminate the water repellent nature of sized cloth

2. To increase the absorbency

3. To reduce the consumption of chemicals in subsequent

process

Importance of desizing

The importance of desizing is mainly because of water

repellent nature of sizing material so it is important to remove

the size material before conducting any coloration or finishing

process.

Type of sizes

1. Water insoluble sizes

2. Limited water solubility sizes

3. Water soluble after pre-swelling sizes

4. Good water solution sizes.

Method of desizing

1. Hydrolytic Method

i. Rot steeping

ii. Acid steeping

iii. Enzyme steeping

2. Oxidative method

3. emulsifier method

Singeing Came Desizing Machine

Now a days, singeing come desizing machine in which

desizing and singeing is done on same cost as well as on the

same tome.

Scouring

Processes carried out to remove all imparities reaccept

coloring pigments.

Objective of scouring

Removal of soluble, mollifiable sizes and specifiable

methods; waxes, pectins, seeds and plant particles and make

the fabric ready for subsequent process ( Bleaching, Dyeing,

priting without any resistance)

Scouring agents:

The caustic soda is most commonly used as scouring

agent.

Machine used for scouring

1. Kier Method

2. J. Box Method

3. vapour Lock method

Bleaching

A processed carried out to remove color pigments from

cloth and to provide maximum whiteness.

Methods of bleaching

1. Batch methods

2. Semi continues Method

3. Continuous methods

Bleaching agents

1. (H2o2)

2. (Naclo2)

3. (Naocl)

4. (Caocl2)

Mercerization

A process carried to increase the absorbency and luster

of fabric.

Machine used for mercerization:

1. Chain Mercerization Machine

2. Chainless Mercerization machine

Dyeing process

The coloration of textile material in dyeing solution

The dyeing solution may contains:

1. Dye- stuff the are coloring materials

2. Water

3. Auxiliaries (Thee are helping compound that

increase the dyeing properties.

Stages of dyeing process

1. Preparation of dyeing solution

2. Actual dyeing (padding, drying, fixation)

3. Soaping & washing

4. Drying

Steps of dyeing process

1. Migration

2. Adsorption

3. Absorption

4. Diffusion

5. Fixation

Dye stuff classification

1. Dyes can be classified base on the four parameters

i. Base on chemical constitute

ii. Base on application or uses

2. Base on ionic structure

3. Base on solubility in water

Application of dyes:

1. Direct dyes

Direct dyes are used for natural cellulose like cotton and

regenerate cellulose like viscose rayon.

2. Reactive dyes:

Reactive dyes are applied on natural cellulose like cotton and

natural proteins like flax and also for man made fiber nylon.

3. Mordant dyes:

Mordant dyes are applied on natural proteins like wool and

man made fiber like modacrylic and nylon.

4. Sulphur dyes:

Sulphur dyes are applied on natural and regenerated

cellulose.

5. Acid dyes:

Acid dyes are applied on man made synthetic fibers like

nylon and natural proteins like, silk, wool and mohair etc.

6. Azoic dyes

Azoic dyes are applied on natural cellulose like cotton and

regenerated cellulose like viscose rayon

7. Vat Dyes

Vat dyes are applied on natural and regenerated cellulose at

about 100-120oC

8. Basic dyes

Basic dyes are applied on synthetic fibers like acrylic and

monarchic and natural proteins like wool and silk.

9. Disperse dyes:

Disperse dyes are applied on man made fibers like polyester

which are hydrophobic nature

10. Pigment dyes:

Pigment dyes are applied on cellulose and man mode fibers.

These are used as binders for cellulose fibers.

Ionic structure

Ionic stricture includes following things.

Anionic nature:

In anionic nature following dyes include

a) Reactive Dyes

b) Direct dyes

c) Sulphar dyes

d) Acidic dyes

e) Azoic dyes

f) Mordant dyes

g) Vat dyes

Cationic nature

It includes following dyes

Basic dyes

None anionic or neural nature

These include following dyes.

a) Disperse dyes

b) Pigment dyes.

Soluble nature

In soluble nature reactive dyes, direct dyes, sulphur

dyes, acidic dyes, azoic dyes, mordant dyes , basic dyes are

included.

Unsoluble nature

In unsoluble nature disperse dyes, pigment dyes and vat

dyes are included.

General theory dyeing

Dyeing is a process of coloring textile materials by

immersing them in water solution of dye called dye liquor.

The general theory of dyeing explain, the dyeing process

is the interaction between dye, water, auxiliary electrolyte

dispersing agent, wetting agent and textile material.

More specifically, it can explain as following forces are

responsible for, dye molecules should leave the dye liquor,

enter & enter & attach to polymer of textile material:

Force of repulsion which develop between dye molecules

and water and force of attraction which develop between dye

molecules and textile material.

Dye liquor

1. Dye stuff

2. Water

3. Electrolyte (sodium chloride or sodium sulphate)

4. Heat

Dyeing methods

Batch method

Semi- continuous method

Continuous method

Dyeing machines for semi- continuos method

Fabric dyeing

Pad batch pad thermosol

Dyeing machines for continuous method

Fiber dyeing

1. Continuous fiber dyeing machine

Yarn dyeing machine

1. Salsher dyeing machine

2. Rope dyeing machine

Fabric dyeing

1. pad- Thermosol dyeing machine

Printing

Printing is differ from the dyeing in that way as it is

designed to produced multicolored pattern on textile material

by using prnting pasts, rather than a single color all over the

fabric.

Printing pasts

The printing paste is an emulsion of dye thickener and

hydrocarbon solvent and surface active agent. The uniform

consistency of the printing paste is referred to as it viscosity

the ease with which the paste flow the viscosity of the priting

paste is very important of the parttern.

Stages in printing process

1. Preparation of design block roller screen heat transfer

2. Preparation of printing paste

3. Actual printing making an impression of the paste on fabric

4. Drying of printing paste

5. Fixation as after treatments

6. Soaping & washing

7. Drying

Theory of printing

The printing paste which is applied to the textile material

consists of dye, water thinkers and hydrocarbons solvent.

After printing paste is applied the textile material is usually

steamed.

Steam enable the dye molecules to migrate from the

surface of the fibers and enter the fiber polysystem steaming

swells the fibers and ensures the better penetration of the

dye and improve color fastness properties of the textile

material.

Methods & machines of printing

Block or stencil printing

It is the oldest technique of printing in which wooden or

metallic block build up into a complete design over the fabric

area. Many separate blocks can be used for separate cooler.

In stencil priting pieces of marked pattern is cut out of

the paper or metal sheet, this stencil sheet is lid on the fabric

an colored past is brushed or sprayed over it, a separate

stencil can used for each color.

Wooden rubber metallic block.

Paper or metal stencils

Methods & machines of printing

Roller printing

Screen-printing

Different style of printing

Direct style

Discharge style

Resist style

Special styles

Finishing

Finishing is a process which performed by mechanical or

chemical treatments of fabric to eliminate undesired

properties of fabric and to add the value added effects.

Type of finishing process

Mechanical finishing process

When the finishing process is done by some mechanical

means.

Chemical finishing process

When the fabric is treated with some chemical

solution during finishing treatment.

Chemical finishes

1. Crease resistance wrinkle free resin finish

2. Soft finish

3. Water professing

4. Water repellent

5. Weighting finish

6. Anti bacterial finish

7. Flame proofing

8. Stiffening finish

9. anti static finish

10. sanforizing finish

Mechanical Finishes

1. Heat setting finish

2. Raising finish

3. Peaching

4. sanforizing

5. Calendaring finish

Undesired properties

1. Pilling

2. Creases

3. Stiffness

4. Water repellence

5. Shrinkage

6. Shrinkage

Value added effects

1. Luster

2. Soft handle

3. Fire proofing

4. Water proofing

5. Fragrance

6. Crease Resistance

7. Dimension Stability

8. Weighting

Purpose & importance of laboratory in a processing

unit

Main purpose

Economical importance

Roll of the lab

It can be vary based on following points:

Size of the processing plant

Nature of the material to be processed

Type of organization

Function of lab

Examine the dyes & auxiliaries

Selection of the dyes & auxiliaries for recipe

Recipe formulation

To develop most appropriate process sequence

Testing for process control

Regular checking of controlling instrument

Analysis & assessment

Dealing with customer complaints

Certain aspects of research & development

Reduction of production cost & increase profitability.

Date post:	15-Jul-2015
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