Trekker
IIn This Issue:
2 Chairmans / Editors Notes
3 New Members
4 SummerParty(continuted)
6 Connemara
8 Yorkshire Dales
10 Alta Via Tour
11 AGM
14 Recent Walks Photos
Trekkers Mountaineering Club Glenageary Co Dublin www.trekkers.ie Edition64 November2018
Summer Party
The
The Trant Fellowship has been established to honour the memory of the Founder of the Club, Shaun Trant and what he stood for.
The Fellowship is not intended to become an annual award but to be conferred, when deemed appropriate, on a member whose contributiontohillwalkingandtheclubhasbeenexceptional.Eugene Logan has been judged just such a worthy recipient of this inaugural fellowship.
Shaun’svisionwasforaclubthatcould cater for a wide spectrum of individualsofdifferingaptitudes,dispositionsandageandwhohadagenuineappreciationofwide-open spaces; who appreciate the importance of maintaining a reasonablelevelofphysicalandmentalfitness. Continued on page 4
Honoury Life memberships and the Inaugural Trant Award presented at the Summer Party
EugeneandEvelynLogan
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Chairman Notes
WelcometothethirdeditionoftheTrekkermagazinefor2018. ThesummerprovidedreportsofTrekker’stripsathomeandabroad.Manymanythankstoallwhocontributedtothisedition.
IhavebeenreceivinggreatphotosfromTrekkerswhoareoutandaboutonwalks,forsomereasonthisisssue has lots of Wednesday walks and not so many from the other categories especially the Cs and the Social Walks. So keep them coming.
ihaveincludedsobeautiful“snaps”ofWicklowscenerysubmittedbyPaulO’Kanewhoitturnsoutisadaband with the camera. Thanks Paul
Alldocumentsonthewebsite,forexamplethoseundertheGuidelines,ConstitutionandInsurancetabshavebeenupdatedandnowincludethelogo.CaniaskwalkleaderstousethesenewversionswhencompletingtheweeklyWalksandGuestWaiverforms.
Looking forward to hearing about your exploits in 2019
[email protected] Murphy
We are delighted to welcome the following new members who joined Trekkers in the second half of 2018
EthnaMahon,AlanKane,BettyFitzgerald,JeanneSalter,IdeCorley,CathalDrohan,KathrynRyan,John&NeasaHegarty,DeclanCoughlan,FionnualaMartin,UnaO’SullivanandClionadeBhaldraitheMarsh.
ThefirsttrainingcourseofthenewyeartookplaceinNovember.PeterMcGonigal,MaeveO’Donnell,FriedaFinlay,NiallMcCutcheon,FrankSheridanMichaelCotter,PaddyMacManusandMylesDuffycompletedtheMap-Reading&navigation
Myles Duffy
Editors Notes
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Welcome our newest members
Ethna Mahon AlanKane BettyFitzgerald
JeanneSlater Ide Corley Catha Drohan
KathrynRyan Nesa Hegarty JohnHegarty
Declan Coughlin FionnaualaMartin UnaO’Sullivan
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Whowouldhaveanenduringconcernfortheneeds and wellbeing of other members; that the clubwouldbeaanagreeableandinclusivesocialinstitutionandnotbecompromisedwithcliques
Eugene’sinvolvementinhillwalkingbeganover75 years ago when he joined the scouts in Dun Laoghaire.Heremainedwiththescoutsforover20 years; becoming a scout leader and taking many enduringinitiativesincludingthebuildinganewscoutdenonPatrickStreetDunLaoghairethatisstillinoperation.
Sixty years ago, in 1958, Eugene led a scout troop toCirquedeGavarnie,amagnificentmountainintheBasqueRegionofFrance,notfarfromLourdes.ThoseofyouwhoparticipatedintheEastertripwithMichael&JosephineCotterwillvividlyrecallthemajestyofthisamazingColosseum-likesnow-cappedmountain.ButtherewasnoairportinLourdes in 1958 and for Eugene and his scouts this wasanoverlandtripfromDunLaoghaire!
Eugene joined Trekkers in 1993, as member number 28. He proceeded to take on the role of Walks Coordinator. This role also included thearrangementofaway-tripseveryyearsthatinclude places such as Falcarragh, Tory Island and GlenveighinCoDonegal;AchillCoMayo,AherlowCo Tipperary, the Silent Valley in the Mourne
Mountains;theTwelveBensinConnemara;Mangerton, Carrantwohill and the Gap of Dunloe in CoKerry;SnowdonandCadarIdrisinWales.
When the C Walks category was established Eugene ledeveryCWalkintheearlyyearsandmanyofthem in later years. He inspired Trekkers with his knowledge and interest in local history – for thesake,hetoldme,of‘havingsomethingtotalkabout’.Therewas,inmyownexperience,neveraterraintraversedaboutwhichEugenecouldnotoffersomeinterestinginsightorfactoid.
Eugeneisnowanactiveleaderandparticipantinthe new Social walks . I was especially concerned that the Trant family would embrace the concept of The Trant Fellowship. IhadseveralconversationswithShaun’swidow,Eileen,abouttheideaandshewasenthusiastic.Sadly,Eileenpassedawayunexpectedly2July,butjustdaysbeforeshediedEileensentalettertoMichaelCotterinwhichshesaidthatshewas‘lookingforward’toattendingthisevening’sevent;that she felt that The Trant Fellowship was ‘a wonderful idea’ and that she would be ‘honoured to present this award to Eugene’.
Shaun and Eileen daughters Finola and Sinéad presented the award.
Continued from page 1
Finola and Sinead Trant
Myles Duffy
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Honorary Life Membership awarded to Trekkers:
TerryO’BrienBrianBrennanBrídDunneGerry Fogarty Kevin&MarianBeeganNoelO’ReillyPaul Dempsey
BridandAislingDunn
TerryO’BrienKevinandMarianBeegan
BrianBrennan
NoeladnDeirdreO’Reilly Paul Dempsey
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Philosophy-RainandCraicinConnemara LetterfrackisideallysituatedtoexplorethebeautiesofConnemara.
ThelittleConnemaravillageofLetterfrackhashadaninterestinghistory.AQuakercouplefromBradford,becametheresidentlandlordsinin1849.AsQuakers,theElliseswantedtohelpwiththepost-faminereliefeffort.Theyleasednearly1,000acres of rough land and set about farming it and plantingitwithwoodland.Buildingaschoolhouse,housing for tradesmen, a shop, a dispensary, and a temperance hotel. In 1857 the property was sold toJohnHall,astaunchProtestant,andsupporterofthe Irish Church Mission to Roman Catholics. The
ICMusedthebuildingwiththeaimofconvertingCatholicstoProtestantism.After25yearswithoutmuch success, I wonder why, Hall sold it in 1882, under the impression he was selling it to a Protestantbuyer.However,underafalsename,theCatholic Archbishop of Tuam, bought the former Ellis property in 1882. In 1885, he established StJoseph’sIndustrialSchool,Letterfrackwhichopened in 1887. The Industrial School became notorious for neglect and abuse of the children initscharge,andtheschooleventuallycloseditsdoorsin1974.DespiteItsgrimhistorythevillageisnowthrivingwitheverypossibleamenity,pubs,restaurants
shop etc. Since 1987 it has been home to GMIT Furniture Design CollegetheNationalCenterforExcellence In Furniture Design and Technology. The college is partly housed in the former Industrial Schoolandapoignantvisittotherestoredgraveyardbehindthecollege is a grim reminder of how many young boys perished under its strict regime.
UnlikeWicklow,withtheexceptionoftheConnemaraNationalPark,therereallyisn’ta system of marked tracks or trails in the area., no East West Mapsavailablehere,sowehiredtheservicesofalocalmanMatt.Whentalkingtohimonthe phone he sounded like an auldonelikemyselfbutMattturned out to be a supremely fityoungerman!!!withanencyclopaedic knowledge of the area. As a local he had stories and tales to tell and made the Saturday walk, despite the really harsh weather, a treat.
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KillaryHarbourthecountrysonlyFiord Well that is if you don’t come from Co Down and include Carlingford Lough
ConnemaraNationalParkcoverssome2,957hectaresofscenic mountains, expanses of bogs, heaths, grasslands and woodlands.
Some of the park’s mountains, namelyBenbaun,Bencullagh,BenbrackandMuckanaght,arepartofthefamousTwelveBensorBeannaBeolarange.
OnSundaywetookoneofthetrails in the park and climbed to the top of Diamond Hill which affordedstunningvistasofthedistantislandsofInishbofin,Inishturk and Inishshark, and theturretedKylemoreAbbey.The park is also home to Connemara ponies, red deer and anenormousvarietyofbird-life,including skylarks, stonechats and peregrine falcons.
Mary Murphy
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The Yorkshire Dales
Writingonhumanevolution,arecentbook“PrimateChange”states,“walkingremains the miracle cure it always was. It’s something that links us to those grassland speciesofmillionofyearsago.”
The Trekkers below experienced this recently in SeptemberaswetraversedvalleysintheYorkshireDales,whicharedatingback12millionyears.Gargravewasourbase,southwestoftheNationalPark,atinyvillagebutwithagoodeatery,“OldSwanInn”,withanale,delightfullynamedandtasting,the“ScreamingSheep”.
It’sproximitytoSkipton,Settle,Buckden,Kettlewell,Grassington,andothersgaveus60kmofwalkingover5days.
This despite the weather rejigging our plans. Forced to be culture vultures,wesheltered in Skipton Castle, Harrogate,YorkMinster,andtheBronteParsonageMuseum and tea rooms with tons of scones.
Thevarietyofsceneryfromlimestonerock,toriversandwaterfalls,todeeplongvalleysuponridgeswithspectacularpanoramicviewswasbeautiful.
Yorkshire Dales are Glenmalure, Wicklow and the BurrenbyanXfactor.Andnotawindmillorelectricpylonanywheretobeseen!Inbetween,ourconversationswerelively,widerangingandpokedfunatlifeandt’others.Atiredandcontentedband!AndJoeholdsthedistinctionofclimbingaPike!!
Paddy MacManus
The Yorkshire Dales are Glenmalure, Wicklow and the BurrenbyanXfactor.
Rita,Tina,Paddy,JoeandJohnTraversetheDales.
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Alta Via Tour
Encouraged by our enjoyment and building on our confidencegainedontheTourdeMontBlancandtheCarrosdeFochinprevioussummers,Ita,BredaandIdecidedtotackle the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites in August. TheAltaViacompriseaseriesofsixhighmountainroutesthattraversetheDolomitesfromnorthtosouth,offeringhikinginthemid-2000mrange and spectacular scenery.InitiallythestatisticsforourchosenAltaVia,of11daysand120km,werenotenoughtoputusoff,however,wedidadeepintakeofbreathat the height to be gained and losteachday,withover17forcella or mountainpassestobecoveredinatotalof5625mascentand6780mdescent.Amazingscenery would more than make upforthestrenuousmorningsandafternoonsthatlayahead.OverthecourseofthejourneywepassedthroughfournationalparksandpassedseveralofthespectacularDolomitesincludingCrodadelBecco,TofanediRozes,CinqueTorri,theCivettaandthegiantPelmo.
Day 1HavingbasedourselvesinCortinad’Ampezzo–apopularskidestinationjusttwohoursbybusnorthofVenice–foranightortwo,wemadeanearlymorningstartforLagodiBraies,ourstartingpoint,
onthelocalDolomitibus,aneasyand scenic way to get around the area. Theweathercouldn’thavebeenbetteraswedescendedthebusto be greeted by the sight of the stunning blue lagoon that is Lago diBraies(1494m).HereourAltaVia trip began. We enjoyed the mid-morningsunshineaswewalked the length of the lake before tackling a steep climb overscreeterraintothefirstofthe passes Forcello Sora Forno, whichtranslatesas“oven”or“heattrap”:thenamewasaptas it was extremely hot in this exposed area, with the rocks throwingofftheheatoftheday.Herewehadourfirstintroductiontotheaidediron-ropestretches–the“viaferrata”thatdotthehigh mountain regions – which although a surprise to come acrossatarelativelylowlevel,wasnegotiatedeasilywithcareandattention.Arrivingatthetop of the pass, which lies in the ParcoNaturaledelleDolomitid’Ampezzo,wemarvelledatthepanoramaofvastandbreath-
takingviewsallaround.Althoughrelativelyshort,thisfirststageprovedquitedemandingwiththe heat and the struggle to acclimatiseourselvestothealtitudeandtotheweightofthebags. We were delighted to reach ourrefugeforthenightintimefor a hearty mountain meal.
Amazingscenerywouldmorethanmakeupforthestrenuousmorningsandafternoonsthatlayahead.
Ita,BredaandMarytakethehighroad
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Day 2Afteracomfortablenight,weawoketoarosydawnovertheDolomitesandheadedoffforthesurprisesofdaytwo.ThetrailledusintothebeginningofextensiveWW1fortificationandtunnelremainsasitwasinthisformerterritoryoftheAustroHungarianEmpirethatmuchofthefightingofthatwartookplace.Overthenextfewdayswepassedextensiveevidenceofthemilitaryactivityofthatera;crumblingremainsofencampments,gunnerlookoutpostsatdizzyingheightof2,500metres–allofwhichpromptedsombrereflectionontheintensesufferingofwarandthesenselesslossofsomanyyounglives.Theday’swalkpresentedgreatviewsandmanytwistsandturnsasthetrailenteredtheParcoNaturaleFanes-Senes-BraiesandpastwhatisknownlocallyastheMarmot’sParliament.Notalwayseasytospot,wewereneververyfarfromthepeople-shyanimals,andenjoyedtryingtospottheoddonebyfollowingthesoundoftheirpiercingwhistlesastheyrangoutalongtheway.Afterarelativelyundemandingday’swalkingwearrivedatourrefugewhichwasverycomfortableandquiet.
Day 3Wesetoffthefollowingmorningonabroadtrack,whichprovidedawelcomerelief from the narrow mountain trails or scree paths which we were to encounterformostofthejourney.Thisprovedtobethemostrewardingandchallengingdayofthetrip,crossingthroughfourpasses,eachrevealingstunningsceneryaswegainedheight,finallyarrivingattheForcelladeLago(2486m),whichofferedbreath-takingviewsoftheAverau,NuvolauandPelmopeaks.Ourwelcomelunchbreakatthisheightbecamesomewhatextendedaswecontemplatedthejaw-droppingdescentthatawaitedusonthefarside,requiringwhatfeltlikeastepintotheabyssandthathopethatthefirstfootstepwouldfindterrafirma.However,tooursurprise,afterthefirstfewstepswefoundasteepbutwell-maintainedzig-zagpaththateventuallyrevealedalakebelow us, following which we began to climb again through the immense open desolateareaoftheAlpedeLagazuoiwhere,onceagain,wepassedremnantsofthefiercefightinginWW1.ThismadeforaninterestingascenttotheLagazuoirefuge,thehighestpointonourtourat2752m,stoppingatwarmemorialsandvisitingtunnelsandcaves.
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Wewereimmenselytiredandenjoyedarelaxedeveninginaverycomfortablerefuge,meetingwithmany fellow walkers and exchanging tales of ascents anddescents!Day4ThefollowingdaywepassedontheoptiontowalkdownthroughoneoftheWW1tunnels,optinginstead for the scenic wooded route in the sunshine. Thistrailinitiallycurvedaroundthelowerscree-strewnslopesoftheTofanadiRozes,meanderingthen through meadows and forest trails which providedgreatviewsovertheCortinabasin.Itwasarelativelyuneventfulbutextremelypleasantwalkingday,finishinginthecosy,well-managedrefugeCinqueTorri–oneofourtopfavouritesofthetrip.Ingeneral,therefugesvariedfromlargeryear-roundskirefugesaccommodating60-90,tosmalleralpinehutswhichcaterfor20-30andonlyopenfortheclimbingandwalkingseason.CinqueTorri(FiveTowers)wasoneofthesmalleronesfavouredbyclimbers,whocouldbeseenpracticingontheimmense towers of rock behind the refuge, and who availedthemselvesoftheexcellentcoffeemachineintherefugeforapre-climbdoubleespressotokick-starttheiradrenalin.Day 5The Alta Via 1 route consists of myriads of paths and trails – some centuries old goat paths and trails whichrevealsurpriseaftersurpriseastheymeanderthroughhighrockypasses,openingupnewvalleysandvistasateveryturn.Attimesthetrailwasslowtogiveupthehiddenpasses,oftenlocatedinsmallclefts,anditwasfrequentlyinthelastfewhundred
metersthatthenextvalleywouldrevealitself,allofwhichgaveriseto,attimes,tiringafternoons,forthereissomethingtobesaidforhavingone’sdestinationinsighttoshortenthejourney.Day5wasonesuchdaywithfourcolsnegotiatedbeforefinishingatourrefugeCittádiFiume,anisolatedmountain hut dwarfed by the giant Pelmo outcrop. Wespentaverypleasanteveningamidfellowwalkersexchangingexperiencesandadventures,and enjoyed a wonderful musical soiree, presented byatroupeofRussianandFrenchbalalaika-playingfolk musicians/singers who were doing a tour of the hutsoverthesummermonths.Day6Wehadarrangedaday’srestinthevillageofAllegheand,so,afterapleasantmorning’sdescenttotheColdeiBaldi,wetookacablecarfromthereforthefinallegdowntothelake-sideresort,nestledunderthegrandfacadeoftheCivette,whichrunsfor6km,andat3220m,dominatestheskyline.Afteran enjoyable day rambling in the small resort we returnedviacablecartotheColdeiBaldiforparttwoofthetrail,refreshed,re-energisedandreadyonce again for the backpacks – but not, perhaps, for theweatherthatlayahead!Day 7This was a demanding day’s walk in extremely humidweather.Aftera2-houruphillslogfromtheCol to the Refugio Coldai, where disappointment of(major)disappointments…thecoffeemachinewasoutofaction(!),wecontinuedacoursethatranalongthe6kmlineoftheCivetta.Thetrailofferedvarietyinthelakesandwildflowerpastures
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along the way, but would later morph into rock strewnpaths.Atmid-day,thepent-uphumidityfinallybroke,givingwaytoheavydownpours,accompanied by loud cracks of thunder then flashesoflightning–afterwhichtheweatherchilledconsiderably:gonewerethemid-twentiestemperatures we had enjoyed at the start of the trip…timetogetoutthewarmjackets,glovesandhats!Theroutethenbecametougherandcalledfornegotiatingslipperywetrocks.Wedidourtiringbodiesnofavourbyoptingtodetourtoarefugetodryout(temporarily)andwarmupwithfoodandcoffeeasthedetourtookquiteabitlongerthananticipated.However,thestormhadpassedandtheskiesliftedabit,thoughthe temperature remained low. As we descended to RefugioVazzolerforournight’saccommodationwefeltadifferentseasonencroaching.Thankfully,warmopenfiresallowedustodryourgearandwarmourspirits.Day 8RisingtotheForcellaColDell’OrsowemadeourwayincontinuingcoolertemperaturesthroughthemistcoveredhillstoForcelladelCampandondownthroughlarchcoveredslopesandsomechallenging,though aided, stretches of boulder strewn terrain wherethegoingwasdifficultandtiring.WemetotherwalkerscomingoffthenearbyFerrataConstantiniwhowerewellequippedwithropesandhard hats and we wondered had we missed some vitalinformation!Thankfullyourrouteeasedand
we descended to Passo Duran at the foot of Cima NorddiSanSebastian.Atthatpoint,rainonceagain descended steadily and we were happy to reachouraccommodation.Thebigexcitementinthis hut was a spat between the owner and his girlfriendwhodoubledasthecook,resultinginthesameladyfleeingthekitchen,nottoreturn!Wewondered if we would be fed at all, but the meal turned out to be one of the best of the trip, with a potatosoupthatcouldonlyhavebeeninspiredagrandmother’ssecretrecipe,souniquelyflavouredand fulsome was it. With such a broth, followed by
adeliciousgoulash,faithinthehumancondition–ifnotinterpersonalrelationships!–wasrestored.Day 9Thechillinthekitchenhadawider-rangingimpactasweawoketoasnow-coveredcolthenextmorning.Wherethepreviousweekwehadbeendonningshortsandt-shirtsdaily,itwasnowtimetodigintothebackpacksforthethermalunderwear,infact,foreveryitemofwarmclothingwehadinthere.Theearlyunexpectedsnowevenmade the news headlines, with friends in Germany textingtosaytheyhearditwassnowingintheDolomites!Todaywasourpenultimatewalkingdayandwe
The big excitement in this hut was a spat between the owner and his girlfriend who doubledasthecook,resultinginthesameladyfleeingthekitchen,nottoreturn!
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setoffatabriskpacetokeepwarm,ourfacesprotectedbymuffsandscarves,andweresoonsteadily losing height as we descended into the ParcoNazionaledelleDolomitiBellunesi.Asthemorning progressed we walked out of the worst of thesnow,headingthroughquieterlessfrequentedtrailsasthissectionofthetrailisnotsoheavilyvisited.ThetrailheadedthroughpinecladforeststotheForcellaDagareiwithitsvastpanoramaoftheCordevolevalley.RisingthroughthelarchandpinewoodsweascendedthefinalcolatForcelladelMoschesin before making our descent to our refuge for the night, Malga Pramper, a modernised dairy farmwherewespentaverycomfortablenight,andsampled some of the delicious cheese and sausage meatproducedonthefarm.And,despiteourheavypacks,weallmadesuretoleavealittleroomtoadd a jar of local honey to our purchases the next morning. The next day dawned clear, crisp and glorious, with onlytheslightchillintheairservingtoremindusthat200metersabove,therewouldmostlikelystillbesnowontheground.Wesetoffataleisurelypace and descended through the pine forests to Forno di Zoldo, passing many Italians on the lower stretches who were out and about on day hikes. Mary , Breda and Ita
Fortifiedbyyetanotherexcellentcappuccino,wereturnedtoCortinabytheDolomitiBus,havingtogettwoclosely-timedconnections.Everythingworkedlikeclockwork, and all for just a few euro. ItwasnicetogetbacktothenowfamiliarCortina,indulge in a prosecco toast to celebrate our achievement,sitbackandfullyappreciatetheItalianexpression,“Lavitaebella.”ThroughoutwefoundtheCiceroneguideveryinformative,thoughthetimesvariedinplaceswithlocalsignage and route markings. The occurrence of fresh rock falls meant also that some stretches took longer andweremoredifficulttotraversethananticipated.Weused Compass maps of the route, which we bought in Cortina,andtheseprovidedverycleardirectionsandalternativeroutes,thoughthesewerenotneeded.Allinallitwasaverywellrewardingtrailexperience.ThankstoBrendanBrackenwhofirstmootedtheideaoftriptotheDolomitesseveralyearsago,piquingourinterest in this area; to Mary Murphy, Mary Dorgan andUnaDavisfortheveryhelpfultipsandsuggestionsfollowingtheirtripafewyearsago;andtoOwenMcKeown,asalways,afontofinformation–andmaps!–onthisdelightfularea.
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The chairman Myles welcomed membersandchartedtheactivitiesoftheclubforthepreviousyear.Fourofthefivecommitteememberswerenominatedtocontinueunopposed in their posts for the coming year.
The Walks coordinator Ita Lawton has complete her 3 year tenure on thecommittee.DympnaThunderwas elected unopposed as the new Walks Coordinator.
Myles thanked Ita and his predecessor Shay for their hard workonthecommittee.
MyleswelcomedTurloughO’Donnelthe chairperson of the Camino SocietyIrelandwhogaveaveryinterestingtalkonthehistoryofthe Camino and the ongoing plans ofthesocietyindefiningauthenticpilgrim routes within Ireland. This wouldprovideIrishpilgrimswithan opportunity to do part of the Camino route at home.
The annual AGM took place in the NationalYacht Club on 23October
TurloughO’DonnellchairpersonoftheCaminoSocietyIreland
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Recent Walks
A Walk A Walk 29 Sept
WW 29 WW 29 August
WW 15 August
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WW 5 Sept
BWalk21July
WW 5 September
BWalk4August
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