The-Cheesemonger’s-Kitchen-Celebrating-Cheese-in-90-Recipes

7/30/2019 The-Cheesemongers-Kitchen-Celebrating-Cheese-in-90-Recipes

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h

Csmongrskichnclbaing ch in 90 cip

by ch haing

phgaph by

jph d l

fwd by

paul aaw


3/15

8Foreword by Paul Aratow

12Pairing Wine with Cheese by Brian Kalliel

16Introduction

23Cheese Boards

39Appetizers

67Soups

81Salads

93Vegetables

111Crackers, Flatbreads, and Pizza

13 1Tarts and Sandwiches

155Pasta and Risotto

181Meats and Fowl

201Desserts

217Index


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ch bad

29

With its whimsical presentation and addictive favor,

this is a dish that deserves a platter all unto itsel.

Smaller beehives can be made or individual serv-

ings using small bowls or ramekins and are a un

way to dress up cheese boards, but the drama o

a large beehive cant be beat.

The Goat Cheese and Roasted Garlic Beehive

is an inspired creation o my mentor, Carlo Middione.

His version calls or Bcheron chvre, but I have

ound that the resh goat cheeses rom upstateNew York or Napa Valley, Caliornia, serve well or

this dish and are ar less costly.

Bennington Potters in Vermont makes a

batter bowl with a shape thats perect or creat-

ing a beehive appearance.

Preheat the oven to 400F/200C/gas 6.

Spread out the garlic on a baking sheet/tray and

drizzle with the olive oil. Bake on the middle rack or 35 to

40 minutes, or until deep golden brown with burn spots

here and there. Being careul not to burn your ngers, givethe garlic heads a pinch. They should be very sot. Let cool

to room temperature and then cut each head in hal hori-

zontally with a serrated bread knie.

Squeeze the roasted garlic pulp into a bowl, remov-

ing any garlic peels that may all into the bowl. Mix the gar-

lic pulp with a whisk until smooth. Save the peels to make a

delicious roasted garlic stock or soup (see Roasted Garlic

and Caulifower Soup with Aged Cheddar, page 72).

Got Ch

d RotGalic Beivserves 15 to 20

5 lb/2.3 kg wole garlic eads, unpeeled

cup/60 ml extra-virgin olive oil

2.2 lb/1 kg fres goat ceese

honey, warmed, for drizzling

Crostini, crackers, or crusty bread, for serving

cont'd


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51

appizs

Fn Fdu

wi WiTufl ButServeS 8

lb/225 g Fa Vall Asa cs,cu 1-/2.5-cm cubs

2 cups/480 ml l mlk

Fsly cack black ppp

4 gg ylks, ba

8 z/225 g u bu,a m mpau

Ba, cub, ppg

The basic technique o slowly melting a single

cheese, such as the Italian Fontina Valle dAosta,

with the help o whole milk, rich egg yolks, and the

best-quality butter can also be applied to several

dierent cheeses blended to your own taste.

When shopping or ontina, look or real

Fontina Valle dAosta, which is marked with the

oicial Fontina Zona di Produzione Regione

Autonoma, Valle dAosta, DOP. The unbelievable

quality o the raw milk, the mastered traditionaltechniques employed, and the singularly sweet

avors rom the spruce-wood shelves on which

the cheese wheels are aged cannot be mimicked

or replicated anywhere else in the world.

I you have access to resh white trues, thinly

slice them over the top o this fonduta. More than

likely, youll need a drizzle o tru le oil oras I

preera beautiul arm butter rom the Poitou-

Charentes region o France studded with resh

white trues as shown in the photograph.

Place the ontina and hal o the milk in a double boiler or a

large bowl set over a pot o boiling water. When the cheese

begins to melt, add a ew grindings o black pepper. Stir gently

with a wooden spoon or 12 to 15 minutes, or until the cheese

is completely melted. Add the egg yolks and the butter and

stir to combine. Meanwhile, gently warm the remaining cup

o milk in another saucepan. Slowly add the warm milk to

the onduta and stir well until smooth.

Pour into a large ondue pot or divide among individual

ondue pots and serve hot with skewers o bread cubes.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .white wine: bright, earthy wines such as Vinho Verde, Rousanne,Cte du Rhone Blanc, American Grenache Blancred wine: Pinot Noir (especially sot styles rom Oregon), Sangiovese

other: Ros


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91

salads

Frs Pchs wi

Hom Tmead BuServeS 4 to 6

2 lag, p lm mas,c a cu --/6-mm-ck slcs

4 lag, p bu fm pacs,

p a cu --/6-mm-ck gs

1 lb/455 g s Buaa cs

, cu pap- slcs

cup/15 g s basl

Fsly cack black ppp

cup/60 ml xa-vg lv l

First invented in 1920 on the Bianchini arm in Puglia,

Burrata has experienced a renaissance o massive

proportions in the last ew years. Basically, it is a

pouch o resh mozzarella flled with rags o let-

over mozzarella and cream. It is traditionally wrapped

in the leaves o asphodel (a plant that, according to

Greek mythology, is the avorite ood o the dead,

while Burrata could arguably be a avorite o most

o us living!).

Today the cheese is available not only in Italy,but many mozzarella makers abroad have succeeded

in making some very worthy versions. Generally

served as is with perhaps a splash o extra-virgin

olive oil and a ew raw arugula/rocket leaves, it is a

highly versatile cheese in the kitchen. In this case,

vine-ripened tomatoes and sugar-sweet peaches are

married with the resh Burrata or a bright summer

salad in which both ruits enjoy the limelight.

Arrange the tomatoes and peaches in an alternating pattern

on a large serving platter.

With your ingers, tear the Burrata into large gol

ballsize pieces and scatter them over the tomatoes and

peaches. Scatter the onion slices over the salad, ollowed

by the basil. Season with plenty o pepper, drizzle the entire

dish with the olive oil, and serve.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .ALternAte VerSion

Replace the heirloom tomato with 4 cups/680 g cherry

tomatoes and replace the peaches with 1 lb/455 g pitted

and halved black cherries. Mix the tomatoes and black cher-

ries in a bowl along with the onion, basil, and pepper. Cut

the Burrata in hal and arrange on a platter with the tomato-

cherry salad atop and around the Burrata halves.


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115

s, flds, nd pizz

Se-Stn CcksMakeS about 50 crackerS

1 cu/155 g all-uo/la ou,lu xta

t coa a alt

t bakg o

1 tb xta-vg olv ol,lu xta o gag

cu/120 ml am at

Although there is a massive variety o delicious

crackers and cheese biscuits available in the mar-

kets, the idea o having something homemade to

enjoy with cheese just makes sense to me, at least

when time permits.

The simplicity o these crackers is actually

their biggest attribute. Having said so, eel ree to

experiment with resh herbs such as rosemary,

ruits such as dried apricots, chopped olives, or

nuts to add in small amounts to this dough.


Mix the our, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl.

Add the olive oil and water and mix well. The dough will be a

little sticky, but it shouldnt be hard to handle. I it eels too

sticky, add a litt le more our.

Roll out the dough on a well-oured work surace to

1 in/2 mm. This is where a pasta machine comes in handy;

it will not only give you the thin sheets youre looking or

but it will also give your batch o crackers a more uniorm

look, should you care about such things.

Lower the oven racks to the bottom hal o the oven,to ensure more even cooking. Cut the dough into squares,

rectangles, or whatever cracker shapes you like. Lightly

grease two baking sheets/trays and place the crackers on

them about in/2 mm apart. Prick the crackers with a ork

to prevent them rom pufng up too much; this will also give

them the classic Saltines look.

Bake or 5 to 20 minutes, or until crisp and l ightly

golden.

Let cool completely beore serving. The crackers can

be stored in an airtight container or several weeks.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .wine: Make your wine selection based on the cheese you are

serving.


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133

s nd sndwihs

Artichokes and eggsthe textures, the avors, and

the beautiul pastel palette o green and yellow

sings o springtime when this dish should be made.

It is wonderul when made in advance, cut into

squares, and then either served cold or cooked

on a at-top griddle.

Fill a large pot with cold water. Squeeze the lemon into the

water to acidulate it. (This will help prevent the artichokes

rom oxidizing.)

Leaving the stems on the artichokes, cut the sharptips o the leaves with a pair o kitchen shears or a serrated

bread knie and then submerge the ar tichokes in the water.

Bring the water to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and then boil

or 20 minutes, or until a knie inserted into the bottom cen-

ter o an artichoke goes in easily. Drain and allow to cool.

Remove most o the outer tough leaves (saving them

or an aternoon snack with some extra-virgin olive oil and

sea salt). Peel and trim the stems and cut away the bristly

choke. Cut each artichoke into eight pieces.


In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs with the Parmigiano

and season with salt and pepper. Line a 9-by-9-in/23-by-23-cm baking dish with parchment/baking paper and then

grease with the olive oil.

Lay the artichokes in the bottom o the dish and

scatter the mozzarella on top, ollowed by another layer o

artichokes, mozzarella, and nally a top layer o artichokes.

Sprinkle with the basil. Pour in the egg and Parmigiano mix-

ture and move the dish about to evenly distribute the eggs .

Bake or 25 to 30 minutes, or until set and golden.

Serve at room temperature, cold, or toasted on a

lightly buttered griddle.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .whiTe wine: Prosecco

Archk Fi

wih FshMzzal BServeS 3 or 4

lmo

8 mall atcok

6 gg

3 oz/85 g gat pamgao-rggao c

salt a ly cack black

1 tb xta-vg olv ol

7 oz/200 g at bufalo mlk oco mlk mozzalla c, cut to-/6-mm lc

cu/30 g co bal


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143

s nd sndwihs

Beauort is a semirm rawcows milk cheese

made deep in the French Alps rom a mixture o

the morning and the evening milk. Richer than

Emmental, and milder than Comt, it is one o

those rare cheeses other than cream cheese or

romage blanc that pairs perectly with smoked

or cured salmon.


Lay the bacon on a baking sheet/tray and bake or

5 to 20 minutes, or until crispy. Discard the at and place

the bacon on paper towels to absorb excess at.

Toast th e slices o bread and then spread some o

the crme rache on one side o each slice. Build the club

sandwich start ing with the watercress, cooked bacon, and

Beauort, then another slice o toasted bread, spread with

more crme rache on the top side, a ew slices o avocado,

and a slice o gravlax. Squeeze a bit o resh lemon juice on

the sh. Top with the last slice o bread. Skewer the sand-

wiches with toothpicks and cut into halves or quarters.

Serve immediately.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .whiTe wine: Picpoul, Roero Arneisred wine: Nebbiolo and smoked salmon are a classic pairing thatwould hold true here

Cub Swch wih

Gvx, Avcd,Bco, BeufServeS 2

8 lc baco

6 lc a--m o ol-ga ba

cu/60 ml cm ac

1 cu/40 g atc

4 oz/115 g Bauot c, cut to -/6-mm lc

1 avocao, tt a l

4 oz/115 g gavlax o om-cu almo

Fly quz lmo juc

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