The Evolution of the Savvy Cosmetic Consumer Presented to: Ohio Valley Chapter of the Society of...

The Evolution of the Savvy Cosmetic Consumer

Presented to:Ohio Valley Chapter of the

Society of Cosmetic ChemistsNovember 19, 2013

Rachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian@rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com 646.783.8827 [email protected]

1. Before There Were Stores

● Ancient beauty rituals touched on by others- Ancient Greece, Ancient Egypt, Biblical times (Jezebel in the book of Kings) Book of Esther - communal beauty rituals

● Ingredients include: Kohl and coal, herbs, oils, perfumes, essential oils, soaps made from fatlipstick from crushed rose petals, carmine

● Early Islamic Treatments: The Medicine of Beauty (one volume) Abu al-Qasim al-Zahrawi, or Abulcasis


2. Upper Class Beauty: Society & Class● Ancient China- longer nails proved that the upper classes didn’t work The colors used represented social class: different

dynasties royals wore gold and silver; later royals wore black or red. The lower classes were forbidden to wear bright nail colors

● In Japan, geishas wore lipstick made of crushed safflower petals which they also used to draw in their eyebrows and the outer edges of their eyes. They used something called bintsuke wax, (a heavier duty version is used in Sumo wrestler’s hair treatments). they also powdered their faces with rice powder and nigh tingale droppings. very recently nightingale shortage

● Paris during the reigns of the Louis - powdered faces, powdered wigs The closest they got to retail were ladies maids dressing their hair and pinching their cheeks.

● Queen Elizabeth I used a paste made with white lead paint, women were poisoning themselves, to create a porcelain complexion since ruddy skin was considered of the lower classes.


3. Early Informal Sales● Wise women, some later considered witches who created herbal treatments and tonics. ● Gave way to Soaps & Skin Whitening Treatments ● Who were they targeting? Society women in a pre-industrial society had more time to concentrate on their looks than

other women. So the treatments targeted their status.● Only Actresses went out looking for cosmetic and hair products


4. Snake Oil & Native American Treatments● During the mid-19th Century the settlers had a brutal lifestyle women on the prairie looked old

way before their time● Looked for skin treatments including the Water Snake treatments brought over by Chinese

laborers. Charlatans jumped on the trade and went to the prairies and railroad camps to try to sell these treatments to both men and women.

● Native Americans of the Eastern regions (Pennsylvania & New York) would collect petroleum from oil seepage and rub in cuts. Seneca Oil became Seh-Nake Oil - became snake oil


5. Before Stores It Was Door to Door● Early Door to Door Salesman ● Proselytizing and religions - Mormons, Jehovah’s Witnesses- the earliest brand evangelists● Encyclopedia Britannica, Vacuum Cleaners targeted housewives paved the way for the Avon Lady● Crowd Psychology gave way to individual pitches● Also the pushcarts in Lower East Side - like our open air malls now● Products advertising started, huge extensive claims, products had to be geared to many members of the

family. ● Men made the money, women decided how it was spentRachel C. Weingarten AKA The Beauty Historian@rachelcw http://beautyhistorian.com

6. Meet The Flappers● Suffragettes of the late 19th century early 20th century - rejected original roles, fashions,

clothing● Flappers of the 1920s cut their hair, discarded their corsets, Dark eyes, dark lips, beauty was

exaggerated ● Influenced by ballet dancers and theater actresses - Sarah Bernhardt ● Were seeking out makeup and products to Marcel their hair, dye their lips● Tan was in - Coco Chanel the first seen previously it was seen as only peasants


7. Film At Eleven● The popularity of moving pictures changed the way that women wanted to look● In Shakespearean times the actresses were actually actors, as movies gave way to talkies,

women saw and wanted to emulate the sophisticated women they saw on-screen● Finally! Makeup. From Max Factor inventing pancake makeup Elizabeth Arden, Helena

Rubinstein, Estee Lauder - all immigrants, mostly from Eastern Europe and Canada. Hair color invented by Eugene Schueller who later went on to found L’Oreal

● Took the notion of old family beauty and hair treatments and went mass market


8. The Prettiest Generation● 1930’s Women heavily influenced by the on-camera glamour of Carole Lombard, Hedy Lamarr,

Claudette Colbert, Barbara Stanwyck● Easing into the war era, privation, two main types of women● Being beautiful was considered patriotic- red nails and lips, no money for stockings, so they

drew seams up the back of their legs, took baths in tea to dye their skin, Victory rolls hairdos ● The other was the Rosie the Riveter- the working women who went to the munitions factories -

hair worn up, pants becoming more common- hair had to be practical. Women in factories having accidents with peek a boo Veronica Lake hair so started wearing hair up and with kerchiefs.


9. The Dawn of Salon Culture● After the war, the men came home, the women had to look beautiful went from working, to being decorative● Started going to the beauty parlor, having their hair done● Beauty formulations changing● Home Perms● Young mothers a new demographic● A new type of youth culture


10. Va Va Volume:

● A new type of bombshell: Marilyn Monroe vs. Audrey Hepburn or Elizabeth Taylor or Ava Gardner....Women could buy glamour in a bottle

● Hair dyeing was not longer a secret, it was desired● Nearly every advertisement had a celebrity face in it● The dawn of faux beauty: false eyelashes, hair pieces, padded bras, recently found out that Marilyn had more than a nose

job, chin job


11. Shake Up Your Makeup

● The dawn of youth culture- California style and the Carnaby culture- colors went wild, first makeup geared to teens Cover Girl

● Shopping was no longer only made by the mothers, daughters were shopping too - first segmented shopping demographic● Advertising changed- Volkswagen and the whole advent of the Mad Men culture. Suddenly there wasn’t only a primary

demographic, there were micro-segments● Jet Setters as air travel began, women were more influenced by International beauty and had access to it.


12. Protest Beauty● As the protests against Vietnam gained popularity, the Flower Power movement took off● Promoting love and peace- looser beauty ideals, softly waved hair, subtle makeup and grooming.● Makeup companies came up with new formulations to match the un-made up look● Afro culture, and at least five companies created makeup for African American beauty including Fashion Fair and Flori

Roberts.


13. Super Beauty● The beginning of the 1980s brought on Supermodels and super brands● Cosmetics became heavily branded as women wanted to create specific looks for themselves● Working women - ruling the workplace and more disposable income than before, big shoulders, big hair, over the top

wealth.● Enjoli: I can bring home the bacon, fry it up in a pan..● Madonna vs. Cyndi Lauper a new kind of youth culture as pop artists became visible on MTV● We see Lady Gaga with her blobs of makeup but in the ‘80s Linda Mason created the earlier version of that look.


14. The Global Consumer● The advent of the internet meant that people could see trends in motion● The beauty ideal loosened as more looks, products and trends emerged● New ways of retail, the early e-tailers● There was more ebb and flow between companies as International companies had branches and offshoots in the states

and vice versa.● Prices dropped, savvier consumers, demanded incentives, ● More brands more fickle


15. New and Now● Brand explosion● Celebrity brands, celebrity endorsements ● Prestige, Mass Market, Masstige● from tween, to teen, to youth to anti aging- every age and every stage● Buffet Shopper- no longer relies on one brand alone● Crowd Shopping- no longer rely on mom’s advice or preferences rely on friends● Multi-screen influencers● Selfie generation● Blogs, Vlogs, Tumblr,Facebook, Twitter


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The Evolution of the Savvy Cosmetic Consumer Presented to: Ohio Valley Chapter of the Society of...

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