The false promise of certification
How certific
ation is
hindering s
ustainabilit
y
in the textil
es, palm oil
and fisherie
s industries
The
purp
ose
of th
is re
port
is to
shed
ligh
t on
indu
stry
spe
cific
is
sues
rel
ated
to e
nvir
onm
enta
l im
pact
s of
cer
tific
atio
n sc
hem
es a
nd v
olun
tary
initi
ativ
es in
fish
erie
s, pa
lm o
il an
d te
xtile
s sec
tors
. The
info
rmat
ion
in th
is d
ocum
ent h
as b
een
obta
ined
from
sou
rces
bel
ieve
d re
liabl
e an
d in
goo
d fa
ith
but a
ny p
oten
tial i
nter
pret
atio
n of
this
repo
rt a
s m
akin
g an
al
lega
tion
agai
nst a
spe
cific
com
pany
or c
ompa
nies
nam
ed
wou
ld b
e m
isle
adin
g an
d in
corr
ect.
The
auth
ors
acce
pt n
o lia
bilit
y w
hats
oeve
r for
any
dire
ct o
r con
sequ
entia
l los
s aris
ing
from
the
use
of th
is d
ocum
ent o
r its
con
tent
s.
3
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
2
List
of f
igur
es, t
able
s and
box
es
5
Exec
utiv
e su
mm
ary
and
key
findi
ngs
1. Ex
ecut
ive
sum
mar
y 7
2.
Key
findi
ngs
8
2.
1. Fi
sher
ies
8
2.
2.
Palm
oil
9
2.
3.
Text
iles
11
3. T
he w
ay fo
rwar
d fo
r cer
tific
atio
n 12
Chap
ter 1
. A
bout
stan
dard
s 15
1.1.
Intr
oduc
tion
15
1.2.
Wha
t are
sust
aina
bilit
y st
anda
rds?
17
1.3.
The
hist
ory
of v
olun
tary
stan
dard
s and
cert
ifica
tion
19
Chap
ter 2
. Ca
se st
udy:
Pal
m o
il 27
2.1.
Pa
lm o
il: th
e w
orld
ís fa
vour
ite v
eget
able
oil
27
2.2.
Th
e pr
oble
m w
ith p
alm
oil p
rodu
ctio
n 27
2.3.
Th
e ris
e of
pal
m o
il pro
duct
ion
stan
dard
s and
cert
ifica
tion
agre
emen
ts
28
2.4.
Th
e la
rges
t pal
m o
il cer
tific
atio
n sc
hem
e: R
ound
tabl
e on
Sus
tain
able
Pal
m O
il (RS
PO)
30
2.4.
1.
Intr
oduc
tion
30
2.4.
2.
Cove
rage
30
2.4.
3.
Criti
cism
30
2.5.
O
ther
sche
mes
33
2.5.
1.
Rain
fore
st A
llianc
e (R
A) /
Sust
aina
ble
Agric
ultu
re N
etw
ork (
SAN)
33
2.5.
2.
Inte
rnat
iona
l Sus
tain
abilit
y an
d Ca
rbon
Cer
tific
atio
n (IS
CC)
34
2.5.
3.
Roun
dtab
le o
n Su
stai
nabl
e Bi
omat
eria
ls (R
SB)
35
2.6.
Tr
acea
bilit
y: R
ough
ly ri
ght o
r pre
cisel
y w
rong
? 37
2.7.
Fr
iend
or f
oe? C
onclu
ding
not
es o
n th
e ef
fect
iven
ess
40
of
curr
ent p
alm
oil c
ertif
icat
ion
sche
mes
ww
w.ch
angi
ngm
arke
ts.o
rg
This
repo
rt w
as p
ublis
hed
in M
ay 2
018
by th
e Ch
angi
ng M
arke
ts F
ound
atio
n.
Cont
ribut
ors t
o th
is re
port
(in
alph
abet
ical
or
der)
: Alin
a Br
ad, A
lice
Del
emar
e,
Nat
asha
Hur
ley, V
aler
ie L
enik
us, R
ache
l M
ulre
nan, N
oem
i Nem
es, U
rska
Tru
nk a
nd
Nus
a U
rban
cic
Des
igne
d by
Pie
tro
Brun
i h
ello
o.or
gPr
inte
d on
recy
cled
pap
er
Cont
ents
54
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
Chap
ter 3
. Ca
se st
udy:
Fis
herie
s 45
3.1.
Th
e pr
oble
m
45
3.2.
Ce
rtifi
catio
n sc
hem
es
48
3.2.
1.
Mar
ine
Stew
ards
hip
Coun
cil (M
SC)
49
3.2.
2.
Frie
nd o
f the
Sea
(FO
S)
49
3.2.
3.
Mai
n cr
iticis
ms o
f FO
S an
d M
SC ce
rtifi
catio
n pr
oced
ures
50
3.3.
Ha
ve se
afoo
d ce
rtifi
catio
n sc
hem
es m
ade
a diff
eren
ce?
51
3.4.
Lo
sing
faith
56
3.5.
Th
e w
ay fo
rwar
d fo
r fish
erie
s cer
tific
atio
n 57
Chap
ter 4
. Ca
se st
udy:
Text
iles
63
4.1
The
prob
lem
63
4.2.
En
viro
nmen
tal a
nd so
cial im
pact
s in
the
text
iles s
uppl
y ch
ain
64
4.3.
Su
stai
nabi
lity
sche
mes
for t
extil
es
65
4.4.
Pa
nin
dust
ry sc
hem
es
65
4.4.
1.
The
Hig
g In
dex
65
4.4.
2.
MAD
E-BY
and
MO
DE Tr
acke
r 67
4.4.
3.
OEK
O-T
EX
68
4.4.
4.
Zero
Disc
harg
e of
Haz
ardo
us C
hem
ical
s (ZD
HC)
71
4.5.
En
viro
nmen
tal im
pact
s in
cott
on an
d vi
scos
e pr
oduc
tion
73
4.5.
1.
Cott
on
73
4.5.
2.
Visc
ose
74
4.6.
Co
tton
: Is a
wea
k sch
eme
unde
rmin
ing
a str
onge
r one
? 75
4.6.
1.
Bett
er C
otto
n In
itiat
ive
(BCI
) 77
4.6.
2.
Glob
al O
rgan
ic Te
xtile
Sta
ndar
d (G
OTS
) 78
4.6.
3.
BCI v
s. GO
TS
78
4.7.
Vi
scos
e: A
hel
pful
but
par
tial s
chem
e 78
4.8.
W
hat c
an th
e te
xtile
sect
or le
arn
from
the
failin
gs an
d su
cces
ses o
f vol
unta
ry
in
itiat
ives
and
cert
ifica
tion
sche
mes
? 81
Chap
ter 5
. Co
nclu
sion
s and
reco
mm
enda
tions
85
5.1.
Cr
iticis
m o
f sus
tain
abilit
y ce
rtifi
catio
n 85
5.2.
Th
e w
ay fo
rwar
d: A
bolis
h th
e le
ast a
mbi
tious
sche
mes
, ref
orm
the
rest
87
5.2.
1.
Aim
ing
for c
ontin
uous
impr
ovem
ents
, inclu
ding
gre
ater
trac
eabi
lity
5.3.
Co
nclu
sion
90
Refe
renc
es
93
Figu
res
Fi
gure
1: S
uppl
y ch
ain
trac
eabi
lity
38
Figu
re 2
: Glo
bal f
ishs
tock
tren
ds o
ver 4
0 ye
ars
46
Tabl
es
Tabl
e 1:
At a
glan
ce: M
ajor
priv
ate
sect
or in
tern
atio
nal p
alm
oil c
ertif
icat
ion
sche
mes
36
Ta
ble
2: A
t a g
lanc
e: F
OS
and
MSC
sche
mes
48
Boxe
s
Box 1
.1: Ty
pes o
f sta
ndar
ds
16
Bo
x 1.2
: The
role
of s
tand
ards
17
Bo
x 1.3
: Dem
and
for c
ertif
ied
prod
ucts
on
the
rise
18
Bo
x 1.4
: Gov
ernm
ents
low
erin
g am
bitio
n of
cert
ifica
tion
sche
mes
21
Bo
x 2.1:
EU
biof
uels
polic
y as
a dr
iver
of c
ertif
icat
ion
29
Bo
x 2.2
: RSP
O ac
cuse
d of
cove
ring
up ab
uses
of w
orke
rsí r
ight
s 32-3
3
Bo
x 2.3
: 100
% su
stai
nabl
e pr
oduc
ts?
34
Bo
x 2.4
: A ra
ce to
the
bott
om: I
ndon
esia
n an
d M
alay
sian
Sust
aina
ble
Palm
Oil
37
Bo
x 2.5
: Lax
trac
eabi
lity
rule
s beh
ind
maj
or ill
egal
pla
ntat
ion
scan
dals
39
Bo
x 3.1:
Exa
mpl
es o
f bad
fish
ing
prac
tices
46
Bo
x 3.2
: Def
initi
on o
f ille
gal f
ishin
g 47
Bo
x 3.3
: Glo
bal c
ertif
icat
ion
sche
mes
for w
ildc
aptu
re fi
sher
ies
48
Bo
x 3.4
: A b
lue
tick a
war
ded
for d
estr
uctio
n?
52-5
3
Bo
x 3.5
: UK
supe
rmar
kets
caug
ht w
ith u
nsus
tain
able
tuna
54
Bo
x 3.6
: Fish
now
, scie
nce
late
r: O
ne o
f the
mos
t con
trov
ersia
l cer
tific
atio
ns in
MSC
hist
ory
55
Bo
x 3.7:
Key
pro
blem
s with
the
MSC
and
FOS
sche
mes
56
Bo
x 3.8
: Crit
ical
requ
irem
ents
to im
prov
e M
SC
58
Bo
x 3.9
: MSC
offe
rs an
alib
i to
reta
ilers
60
-61
Bo
x 4.1:
EU
Ecol
abel
for v
iscos
e: A
goo
d sc
hem
e in
nee
d of
an u
pdat
e 72-7
3
Bo
x 4.2
: Adi
tya B
irla G
roup
(ABG
): Gr
een
claim
s lac
k sub
stan
ce
80
Bo
x 5.1:
Par
tial s
chem
es: H
andl
e w
ith ca
re
89
Bo
x 5.2
: Wha
t can
be
done
bey
ond
cert
ifica
tion
to g
ear t
owar
ds su
stai
nabi
lity?
92
List
of fi
gure
s, ta
bles
and
box
es
7
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
6
!"#$%&'(
)*+&#,(--./0
Face
d w
ith th
e gr
avity
of t
oday
ís en
viro
nmen
tal a
nd so
cial
pro
blem
s, co
nsum
ers a
re in
crea
sing
ly se
ek
ing
out s
usta
inab
le p
rodu
cts t
hat m
inim
ise
nega
tive
impa
cts o
n pe
ople
and
the
plan
et. I
n 20
15, a
surv
ey
of 3
0,00
0 co
nsum
ers i
n 60
coun
trie
s fou
nd th
at 6
6% o
f con
sum
ers a
re w
illin
g to
pay
mor
e fo
r pro
duct
s or
serv
ices
from
com
pani
es c
omm
itted
to p
ositi
ve so
cial
and
env
ironm
enta
l im
pact
(Nie
lsen
, 201
5). I
n th
e U
K al
one,
the
mar
ket f
or e
thic
al p
rodu
cts g
rew
to m
ore
than
£81
.3 b
illio
n in
201
7, w
ith d
eman
d fo
r su
stai
nabl
e fis
h gr
owin
g by
nea
rly 3
7% in
201
6 (E
thic
al C
onsu
mer
, 201
7). S
tudi
es a
lso
show
that
man
y sh
oppe
rs re
ly o
n la
bels
and
cer
tific
atio
ns a
s a
quic
k an
d ea
sy w
ay to
iden
tify
mor
e re
spon
sibl
y m
ade
prod
ucts
with
out h
avin
g to
bec
ome
supp
ly c
hain
exp
erts
(e.g
. Nie
lsen
, 201
4).
As
sust
aina
bilit
y go
es m
ains
trea
m, m
ore
and
mor
e co
mpa
nies
are
kee
n to
sho
w o
ff th
eir c
rede
ntia
ls
by a
dopt
ing
diffe
rent
type
s of
cer
tific
atio
n, la
bels
and
eth
ical
com
mitm
ents
. The
num
ber o
f diff
eren
t sc
hem
es a
nd v
olun
tary
initi
ativ
es h
as g
row
n ex
pone
ntia
lly in
rece
nt y
ears
. The
Eco
labe
l Ind
ex, t
he la
rg
est g
loba
l dire
ctor
y of
eco
labe
ls, c
urre
ntly
list
s ov
er 4
60 la
bels
in 2
5 di
ffere
nt s
ecto
rs (E
cola
bel I
ndex
, 20
18).
Mos
t of t
hese
hav
e em
erge
d in
the
past
two
deca
des.
But a
re th
ey a
ny g
ood?
Thi
s re
port
sho
ws
that
, rat
her t
han
bein
g an
acc
eler
ator
for p
ositi
ve c
hang
e, th
is ëf
lood
í of c
ertif
icat
ion
crea
tes
conf
usio
n fo
r con
sum
ers a
nd th
e in
dust
ry a
nd is
stan
ding
in th
e w
ay o
f gen
uine
ly su
stai
nabl
e co
nsum
ptio
n.
We
inve
stig
ated
vol
unta
ry in
itiat
ives
in th
ree
sect
ors
whe
re g
row
ing
cons
umpt
ion
and
unsu
stai
nabl
e so
urci
ng h
ave
caus
ed s
erio
us e
nviro
nmen
tal p
robl
ems:
palm
oil,
fish
erie
s an
d te
xtile
s. Pa
lm o
il is
one
of
the
lead
ing
driv
ers
of d
efor
esta
tion,
gre
enho
use
gas
(GH
G) e
mis
sion
s, fo
rest
fire
s an
d lo
ss o
f hab
itat
for c
hari
smat
ic a
nd e
ndan
gere
d sp
ecie
s su
ch a
s or
angu
tans
, ele
phan
ts a
nd rh
inos
. Ind
ustr
ial f
ishi
ng
has d
evas
tate
d th
e pl
anet
ís oc
eans
; nea
rly 9
0% o
f glo
bal f
ish
stoc
ks a
re e
ither
fully
fish
ed o
r ove
rfis
hed
(FAO
, 201
6a).
It is
als
o a
huge
ly w
aste
ful i
ndus
try.
Nea
rly 10
mill
ion
tonn
es o
f goo
d fis
h ar
e th
row
n ba
ck
into
the
oce
an e
very
yea
r, w
hile
dam
agin
g fis
hing
met
hods
hav
e w
reak
ed h
avoc
on
ecos
yste
ms:
gill
nets
com
mon
ly k
ill d
olph
ins,
porp
oise
s an
d w
hale
s, lo
nglin
e fis
hing
is a
par
ticul
ar p
robl
em fo
r bird
s an
d di
scar
ded
fishi
ng g
ear c
ontin
ues
to k
ill s
ea li
fe fo
r man
y de
cade
s in
wha
t is
calle
d ëg
host
fish
ingí.
La
st b
ut n
ot le
ast,
the
text
ile in
dust
ry u
ses
one
quar
ter o
f the
wor
ldís
chem
ical
s an
d ha
s be
en b
lam
ed
for 2
0% o
f glo
bal w
ater
pol
lutio
n, m
akin
g it
the
seco
nd b
igge
st p
ollu
ter o
f fre
shw
ater
on
the
plan
et. V
io
latio
ns o
f hum
an a
nd w
orke
rsí r
ight
s are
als
o ri
fe in
all
thre
e se
ctor
s.
In th
e ab
senc
e of
effe
ctiv
e na
tiona
l and
inte
rnat
iona
l leg
isla
tion
to ta
ckle
thes
e pr
oble
ms,
and
with
in
crea
sing
ly g
loba
lised
sup
ply
chai
ns, v
olun
tary
sch
emes
are
see
n as
a c
onve
nien
t way
to fi
ll th
e ga
p. In
Exec
utiv
e su
mm
ary
an
d ke
y fin
ding
s
The
mar
ket f
or su
stai
nabl
e
and
ethi
cal p
rodu
cts i
s
grow
ing.
(cred
itPe
ter B
ond/
Unsp
lash
)
98
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
this
repo
rt, w
e an
alys
e th
e co
ntex
t in
whi
ch s
uch
volu
ntar
y in
itiat
ives
em
erge
, wha
t the
ir ro
le is
and
ho
w th
ey se
t out
to a
ddre
ss so
me
of th
e ch
alle
nges
iden
tifie
d. W
e in
vest
igat
e an
arr
ay o
f vol
unta
ry in
itia
tives
tha
t pr
ovid
e a
com
pany
, pro
duct
or
serv
ice
with
a s
usta
inab
ility
end
orse
men
t, ra
ngin
g fr
om
prod
uct l
abel
s to
indu
stry
wid
e in
itiat
ives
aim
ing
to im
prov
e th
e en
viro
nmen
tal p
erfo
rman
ce o
f a se
cto
r as
a w
hole
. We
revi
ew k
ey s
chem
es in
eac
h of
the
thr
ee s
ecto
rs, e
valu
atin
g ho
w t
hey
wor
k, t
heir
achi
evem
ents
and
thei
r fai
lure
s. O
ur fo
cus i
s mos
tly e
nviro
nmen
tal i
ssue
s, al
thou
gh in
som
e ca
ses w
e al
so lo
ok at
repo
rts o
n hu
man
righ
ts v
iola
tions
.
This
repo
rt c
omes
at a
tim
e w
hen
man
y of
thes
e sc
hem
es a
re u
nder
pre
ssur
e to
refo
rm fr
om N
GO
s and
sc
ient
ists
ñ an
d, in
som
e ca
ses,
even
pro
gres
sive
com
pani
es. B
ut d
espi
te th
e fa
ct th
at th
e tid
e is
turn
ing,
th
ere
is s
till a
mas
sive
pus
h fo
r cer
tific
atio
n ñ a
nd n
ot a
lway
s fo
r the
righ
t rea
sons
. Thi
s re
port
dem
on
stra
tes
that
man
y of
thes
e sc
hem
es a
re b
eing
use
d as
a c
over
, whi
ch m
akes
it m
ore
diff
icul
t for
NG
Os
and
acad
emic
s to
que
stio
n th
e su
stai
nabi
lity
of s
ome
prod
ucts
and
com
pani
es. F
or e
xam
ple,
McD
on
aldí
s has
use
d th
e M
arin
e St
ewar
dshi
p Co
unci
l (M
SC) l
abel
to d
efle
ct c
ritic
ism
ove
r the
sust
aina
bilit
y of
th
e N
ew Z
eala
nd H
oki F
ishe
ry, w
hich
has
bee
n cr
itici
sed
for i
ts h
igh
disc
ard
leve
ls a
nd tr
awlin
g m
eth
ods (
McG
rath
, 201
6). G
over
nmen
ts a
re a
lso
incr
easi
ngly
usi
ng sc
hem
es a
s evi
denc
e of
sust
aina
bilit
y, a
s de
mon
stra
ted
by th
e us
e of
cer
tifie
d pa
lm o
il to
com
ply
with
bio
fuel
s ta
rget
s, de
spite
dou
bts
abou
t its
su
cces
s in
stop
ping
def
ores
tatio
n. T
he fo
llow
ing
sect
ion
pres
ents
the
key
findi
ngs o
f thi
s rep
ort.
1"#2
&0#3*45*46,
!"#
"$%&'
()
*&)
'
In 2
015,
14%
of g
loba
l sea
food
pro
duct
ion
was
cer
tifie
d ñ u
p fr
om o
nly
0.5%
nea
rly a
dec
ade
earli
er. C
er
tifie
dsu
stai
nabl
e w
ild c
atch
acc
ount
s fo
r 20%
of g
loba
l wild
cat
ch s
uppl
y an
d ha
s be
en g
row
ing
ten
times
fast
er th
an c
onve
ntio
nal s
eafo
od p
rodu
ctio
n (P
otts
et a
l., 2
016)
. Thi
s rep
ort f
ocus
es o
n tw
o of
the
bigg
est s
chem
es: F
riend
of t
he S
ea (F
OS)
and
the
MSC
, whi
ch c
ertif
ied
over
9 m
illio
n m
etric
tonn
es o
f fis
h in
201
5. O
ther
sche
mes
are
rela
tivel
y in
sign
ifica
nt in
com
pari
son.
Bot
h th
e M
SC a
nd F
OS
cert
ifica
tio
n sc
hem
es c
over
the
proh
ibiti
on o
f des
truc
tive
fishi
ng te
chni
ques
, man
agem
ent o
f by
catc
h, e
nvi
ronm
enta
l ris
k, im
pact
ass
essm
ent a
nd th
e m
anag
emen
t of s
tock
regu
latio
n, a
mon
g ot
her i
ssue
s.
MSC
and
FO
S w
ere
both
foun
d to
be
cert
ifyin
g nu
mer
ous f
ishe
ries a
s sus
tain
able
ñ ev
en w
hen
they
ove
rfis
hed,
had
ver
y hi
gh le
vels
of b
yca
tch
and,
in so
me
case
s, w
ere
even
at o
dds w
ith n
atio
nal l
egis
latio
n.
The
MSC
has
als
o be
en fo
und
to ce
rtify
a n
umbe
r of f
ishe
ries i
n a
ëcom
part
men
talis
edí a
ppro
ach,
whi
ch
mea
ns a
ves
sel a
nd c
rew
can
use
thei
r net
s to
catc
h tu
na ës
usta
inab
lyí (
rece
ivin
g M
SC ce
rtifi
catio
n), a
nd
then
ñ on
the
sam
e da
y an
d us
ing
the
sam
e eq
uipm
ent ñ
hau
l in
tuna
alo
ng w
ith p
rote
cted
spe
cies
: a
prac
tice
that
is u
nsus
tain
able
and
ther
efor
e no
nce
rtifi
ed. A
lthou
gh so
me
cert
ifica
tion
expe
rts (
Froe
se
and
Proe
lss,
2012
) say
cer
tifie
d se
afoo
d is
still
a b
ette
r cho
ice
(bec
ause
thos
e fis
herie
s are
mor
e lik
ely
to
refle
ct h
ealth
y, m
oder
atel
y ex
ploi
ted
stoc
ks a
nd to
ens
ure
labe
lled
fish
has
not b
een
caug
ht il
lega
lly),
criti
cs c
harg
e th
at th
e M
SC s
yste
m h
as c
ompr
omis
ed it
s st
anda
rds
to k
eep
up w
ith b
oom
ing
dem
and
from
Wal
Mar
t1 an
d ot
her r
etai
lers
. Boo
min
g de
man
d fo
r sus
tain
able
sea
food
, and
the
desi
re to
mee
t it,
are
act
ivel
y th
reat
enin
g th
e M
SCís
cred
ibili
ty, a
s th
ere
are
not e
noug
h tr
uly
sust
aina
ble
fishe
ries
to
supp
ly d
eman
d.2
1 W
alM
art c
omm
itted
to u
sing o
nly M
SCc
ertif
ied
sour
ces b
y 201
1, bu
t stil
l had
nít f
ulfil
led
this
com
mitm
ent b
y 201
5, d
ue to
lack
of s
uffic
ient
cert
ified
supp
ly
(Pot
ts e
t al.,
201
6).
2 Th
e MSC
actu
ally
has
a sp
ecifi
c tar
get:
to m
ake 2
0% o
f all w
ild ca
ught
fish
MSC
cer
tifie
d by
202
0, an
d 30
% b
y 203
0 (u
p fro
m th
e cur
rent
12%
).
FOS
does
not
hav
e m
uch
supp
ort f
rom
NG
Os a
nd th
e sc
ient
ific c
omm
unity
due
to it
s lac
k of
tran
spar
en
cy a
nd st
akeh
olde
r inv
olve
men
t; he
nce,
it sh
ould
pro
babl
y be
abo
lishe
d. M
SC, w
hich
look
s bet
ter o
n pa
pe
r, ha
s com
e un
der a
lot o
f crit
icis
m fr
om N
GO
s and
scie
ntis
ts a
nd is
als
o lo
sing
cre
dibi
lity
in th
e ey
es
of m
any
reta
ilers
. In
a la
std
itch
atte
mpt
to re
form
the
sche
me,
man
y do
zens
of N
GO
s sen
t a le
tter
to th
e M
SC B
oard
in Ja
nuar
y 20
18, r
eque
stin
g th
at it
del
iver
on
com
mitm
ents
to fi
nally
mak
e ur
gent
lyn
eed
ed re
form
s to
bot
h th
e st
anda
rd a
nd th
e ce
rtifi
catio
n pr
oces
s its
elf.
The
aim
is to
ree
stab
lish
MSC
as
a go
ld st
anda
rd in
seaf
ood
cert
ifica
tion.
Unl
ess t
his h
appe
ns w
ithin
a sh
ort t
imef
ram
e (th
e de
adlin
e gi
ven
in th
e le
tter
is th
e en
d of
201
8), N
GO
s m
ay b
e fo
rced
to re
com
men
d th
at th
e pu
blic
, par
tner
org
ani
satio
ns, p
rodu
cers
and
reta
ilers
mov
e aw
ay fr
om s
eafo
od la
bels
alto
geth
er (Z
iegl
er, 2
017)
. Unt
il (a
nd if
) th
is s
chem
e is
refo
rmed
, con
sum
ers
and
rest
aura
nts
need
to fi
nd o
ther
tool
s to
ena
ble
them
to s
ourc
e ge
nuin
ely
sust
aina
ble
fish
that
cont
ribut
es to
the
long
term
sust
aina
bilit
y an
d he
alth
of t
he o
cean
s and
liv
elih
oods
conn
ecte
d to
it.
!"!
"$+,
-.$/
&-
Palm
oil
is n
ow so
com
mon
that
is e
stim
ated
to b
e pr
esen
t in
half
of a
ll su
perm
arke
t pro
duct
s (A
mne
sty
Inte
rnat
iona
l, 20
16a)
. In
addi
tion,
a t
hird
of a
ll bi
odie
sel b
urne
d in
car
s an
d tr
ucks
in t
he E
U is
now
es
timat
ed to
be
palm
oil
(Tra
nspo
rt &
Env
ironm
ent,
2017
). Si
nce
palm
oil
culti
vatio
n is
cen
tred
aro
und
trop
ical
are
as, i
t is
in d
irect
com
petit
ion
with
tro
pica
l rai
nfor
ests
for
land
, and
is o
ne o
f the
lead
ing
driv
ers
of d
efor
esta
tion.
Bes
ides
mas
sive
bio
dive
rsity
loss
, def
ores
tatio
n is
als
o re
spon
sibl
e fo
r la
rge
amou
nts o
f GH
G e
mis
sion
s. In
done
sia
alon
e, w
hich
is th
e la
rges
t pal
m o
ilpr
oduc
ing
coun
try,
is ra
nked
se
cond
in th
e w
orld
for t
ropi
cal d
efor
esta
tion;
land
use
cha
nge
and
peat
land
dra
inin
g ar
e re
spon
sibl
e fo
r 79%
of I
ndon
esia
n GH
G e
mis
sion
s (W
RI,
n.d.
). W
hile
Indo
nesi
a an
d M
alay
sia
curr
ently
repr
esen
t 85
% o
f glo
bal p
alm
oil
prod
uctio
n, th
e pl
anta
tions
are
qui
ckly
mov
ing
into
new
are
as a
nd c
ount
ries,
such
as i
n A
fric
a an
d La
tin A
mer
ica,
lead
ing
to si
mila
r pro
blem
s the
re.
Bott
om tr
awle
r in
the
Bare
nts S
ea
(cred
itNi
ck C
obbi
ng/
Gree
npea
ce)
1110
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
Foun
ded
in 2
004,
the
Rou
ndta
ble
on S
usta
inab
le P
alm
Oil
(RSP
O) h
as b
ecom
e th
e m
ost
prom
inen
t vo
lunt
ary
palm
oil
cert
ifica
tion
sche
me
wor
ldw
ide,
now
cert
ifyin
g 2.
6 m
illio
n he
ctar
es ñ
or a
roun
d 19
%
of g
loba
l pal
m o
il pr
oduc
tion
(RSP
O, 2
017)
. Sin
ce th
en, o
ther
cert
ifica
tion
initi
ativ
es in
the p
alm
oil
sect
or
have
em
erge
d, le
adin
g to
con
tinuo
us g
row
th in
the
amou
nt o
f cer
tifie
d pa
lm o
il on
the
mar
ket.
Thes
e in
clud
e In
tern
atio
nal S
usta
inab
ility
and
Car
bon
Cert
ifica
tion
(ISCC
) and
the
Roun
dtab
le o
n Su
stai
nabl
e Bi
omat
eria
ls (R
SB),
whi
ch m
ostly
focu
s on
pal
m o
il us
ed in
bio
fuel
s, an
d th
e R
ainf
ores
t Alli
ance
(RA)
, w
hich
mos
tly fo
cuse
s on
sust
aina
ble
agric
ultu
re. T
he M
alay
sian
and
Indo
nesi
an g
over
nmen
ts h
ave
also
se
t up
thei
r ow
n sc
hem
es: M
alay
sian
Sus
tain
able
Pal
m O
il (M
SPO)
and
Indo
nesi
an S
usta
inab
le P
alm
Oil
(ISPO
). IS
PO c
ertif
icat
ion,
whi
ch is
now
a re
quire
men
t for
Indo
nesi
an p
lant
atio
ns, h
as ra
pidl
y in
crea
sed
in re
cent
yea
rs to
cove
r 16.
7% o
f all
plan
tatio
ns, o
r 1.9
mill
ion
ha (I
ndon
esia
Inve
stm
ents
, 201
7). H
owev
er,
as th
is re
port
show
s, IS
PO re
pres
ents
a ra
ce to
the
bott
om, a
s it m
erel
y re
quire
s com
plia
nce
with
alre
ady
wea
k In
done
sian
legi
slat
ion.
This
repo
rt sh
ows t
hat n
one
of th
e sc
hem
es h
as b
een
effe
ctiv
e at
slow
ing
dow
n de
fore
stat
ion,
pea
tland
dr
aini
ng o
r the
loss
of b
iodi
vers
ity. W
hile
RSP
O is
oft
en re
ferr
ed to
as
the
best
sch
eme
in th
e se
ctor
, it
has s
ever
al sh
ortc
omin
gs; m
ost n
otab
ly, i
t allo
ws t
he c
onve
rsio
n of
sec
onda
ry fo
rest
s and
the
drai
ning
of
pea
tland
s, it
has
not
prev
ente
d hu
man
rig
hts
viol
atio
ns a
nd it
doe
s no
t re
quire
GH
G e
mis
sion
s re
duct
ions
. A
ll of
the
sch
emes
inv
estig
ated
als
o ha
ve c
onsi
sten
cy i
ssue
s: th
ey o
ffer
num
erou
s di
ffere
nt s
tand
ards
with
in e
ach
sche
me.
The
se ëm
odul
esí h
ave
diffe
rent
leve
ls o
f am
bitio
n (ta
ilore
d to
the
mar
ket o
f des
tinat
ion)
and
diff
eren
t tra
ceab
ility
requ
irem
ents
(ran
ging
from
full
segr
egat
ion
of
cert
ified
pro
duct
s to
just
selli
ng g
reen
cer
tific
ates
via
trad
ing
plat
form
s). R
SB a
nd IS
CC h
ave
deve
lope
d se
vera
l mod
ules
, dep
endi
ng o
n w
hich
bio
fuel
mar
ket
the
com
pany
wan
ts t
o se
ll to
. In
resp
onse
to
criti
cism
, RSP
O h
as d
evel
oped
a v
olun
tary
add
on
mod
ule
calle
d RS
PO N
EXT,
whi
ch ra
ises
the
bar o
n su
stai
nabi
lity
by p
rohi
bitin
g pe
atla
nd a
nd s
econ
dary
fore
st c
onve
rsio
n. T
he fi
rst 2
,000
tonn
es o
f thi
s ce
rtifi
ed p
alm
oil
reac
hed
the m
arke
t in
Febr
uary
201
8, b
ut w
ere s
old
on th
e tra
ding
pla
tfor
m P
alm
Trac
e,
whi
ch o
ffers
no
trac
eabi
lity
back
to th
e so
urce
(RSP
O, 2
018)
. Thi
s lac
k of
trac
eabi
lity
is a
maj
or p
robl
em
(and
is c
ritic
ised
in th
is re
port
) bec
ause
it re
duce
s the
ince
ntiv
e fo
r com
pani
es to
take
resp
onsi
bilit
y fo
r th
eir o
wn
oper
atio
ns fu
rthe
r dow
n th
e su
pply
cha
in.
The
repo
rt a
lso
revi
ewed
the
sche
mes
set u
p by
the
Mal
aysi
an a
nd In
done
sian
gov
ernm
ents
, whi
ch a
re
now
tryi
ng to
mer
ge th
eir t
wo
sche
mes
into
one
wea
k st
anda
rd a
nd so
lidify
it v
ia tr
ade
agre
emen
ts a
nd
coop
erat
ion
with
oth
er p
alm
oil
prod
ucin
g co
untr
ies.
This
is a
bla
tant
effo
rt to
ëgre
enw
ashí
the
sect
or
and
allo
w fu
rthe
r exp
ansi
on in
to n
ew a
reas
, and
is d
riven
by
cont
inui
ng g
row
th in
dem
and
for b
iofu
els
and
proc
esse
d fo
od p
rodu
cts.
In li
ght o
f thi
s, w
e ca
ll fo
r act
ion
to re
duce
dem
and
for p
alm
oil,
suc
h as
di
tchi
ng b
iofu
els
targ
ets,
as w
ell a
s ch
anne
lling
new
pla
ntat
ions
into
non
fore
sted
are
as b
y pu
ttin
g in
pl
ace
a st
rong
mor
ator
ium
on
palm
oil
expa
nsio
n to
fore
sts a
nd p
eatla
nds.
Mos
t sch
emes
in th
is se
ctor
sh
ould
be
abol
ishe
d in
ligh
t of t
heir
failu
res o
n m
ultip
le fr
onts
.
2.3.
Tex
tile
s
The
text
ile s
ecto
r has
see
n a
prol
ifera
tion
of v
olun
tary
sch
emes
and
gre
en la
bels
ñ o
ver 1
00 a
re li
sted
in
the
Ecol
abel
Inde
x, a
nd s
ever
al o
ther
initi
ativ
es, s
uch
as th
e H
igg
Inde
x, a
re a
naly
sed
in th
is re
port
. R
aw m
ater
ial s
ourc
ing,
man
ufac
turi
ng a
nd p
roce
ssin
g of
text
iles
are
larg
ely
loca
ted
in c
ount
ries
with
ve
ry lo
w w
ages
and
wea
k en
viro
nmen
tal r
egul
atio
ns, w
hich
has
his
toric
ally
led
to p
robl
ems,
rang
ing
from
env
ironm
enta
l pol
lutio
n w
ith to
xic
chem
ical
s to
the
expl
oita
tion
of w
orke
rs. T
his
repo
rt fo
cuse
s on
sch
emes
that
set
out
to a
ddre
ss th
e en
viro
nmen
tal p
erfo
rman
ce o
f the
text
ile in
dust
ry a
s a
who
le,
and
at k
ey s
chem
es c
over
ing
two
fibre
type
s: co
tton
and
vis
cose
. We
foun
d th
at, d
espi
te th
e pr
olife
rat
ion
of d
iffer
ent i
nitia
tives
, the
re is
no
over
arch
ing
sche
me
that
sat
isfa
ctor
y ad
dres
ses
sust
aina
bilit
y pe
rfor
man
ce a
cros
s th
e w
hole
sup
ply
chai
n. T
he E
U E
cola
bel c
over
s di
ffere
nt ty
pes
of te
xtile
s us
ing
a lif
ecy
cle
appr
oach
ñ bu
t in
the
case
of v
isco
se, i
t doe
s not
cov
er a
ll pa
ram
eter
s, no
tabl
y w
ater
pol
lutio
n in
dica
tors
dur
ing
the
man
ufac
turi
ng o
f vis
cose
fibr
es.
Palm
oil p
rodu
cts
by P
roct
er &
Gam
ble
(cred
it Fr
ed D
ott/
Gree
npea
ce)
Palm
oil p
rodu
ctio
n
is a
lead
ing
caus
e of
defo
rest
atio
n
(cred
itUl
et If
ansa
sti/
Gree
npea
ce)
1312
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
The
Hig
g In
dex,
whi
ch is
wid
ely
used
by
fash
ion
bran
ds a
nd c
ount
s sev
eral
NG
Os a
mon
g its
mem
bers
, is
oft
en re
ferr
ed to
as a
key
tool
for i
mpr
ovin
g th
e en
viro
nmen
tal p
erfo
rman
ce o
f the
sect
or a
s a w
hole
. H
owev
er, t
his r
epor
t sho
ws t
hat i
t has
man
y sh
ortc
omin
gs; n
amel
y, a
relia
nce
on se
lfas
sess
men
t and
a
lack
of t
rans
pare
ncy,
whi
ch w
ould
be
a rea
l inc
entiv
e fo
r fas
hion
bra
nds t
o co
ntin
uous
ly im
prov
e. W
hile
th
e H
igg
Inde
x ha
s pr
omis
ed fu
ll tr
ansp
aren
cy b
y 20
20, i
t rem
ains
to b
e se
en h
ow th
orou
gh th
is w
ill
be. A
sim
ilar t
ool,
MA
DE-
BYís
Mod
eTra
cker
, als
o sc
ores
bra
nds
on th
eir e
nviro
nmen
tal a
nd s
ocia
l per
fo
rman
ce ñ
and
suffe
rs fr
om in
com
plet
enes
s, al
low
ing
bran
ds to
pic
k an
d ch
oose
the
area
s on
whi
ch
they
are
ass
esse
d. T
his r
epor
t als
o ev
alua
tes d
iffer
ent t
ypes
of O
EKO-T
EX S
tand
ards
ñ no
t onl
y th
e O
EKO
-TEX
Sta
ndar
d 10
0 m
odul
e, w
hich
dea
ls w
ith c
hem
ical
s in
the
final
pro
duct
, but
als
o th
e M
AD
E IN
GR
EEN
and
Sus
tain
able
Tex
tile
Prod
uctio
n (S
TeP)
mod
ules
, whi
ch d
eal w
ith c
hem
ical
s in
the
prod
uc
tion
proc
ess.
The
repo
rt ta
kes
a cl
oser
look
at s
chem
es fo
r cot
ton
and
visc
ose,
bas
ed o
n th
e po
tent
ial f
or th
ese
two
fibre
s to
be p
rodu
ced
in a
n en
viro
nmen
tally
frie
ndlie
r way
. On
cott
on, i
t was
foun
d th
at a
wea
k sc
hem
e ñ t
he B
ette
r Cot
ton
Initi
ativ
e (B
CI),
whi
ch a
llow
s for
the
use
of to
xic c
hem
ical
s and
gen
etic
ally
mod
ified
(G
M) s
eeds
ñ ha
s gr
own
very
rapi
dly
at th
e ex
pens
e of
org
anic
cot
ton.
A re
cent
inve
stig
atio
n br
oadc
ast
on F
renc
h te
levi
sion
(Luc
et, 2
017)
, sho
wed
how
BCI
has
ove
rtak
en o
rgan
ic c
otto
nís
mar
ket s
hare
and
th
at m
any
farm
ers
have
sw
itche
d fr
om o
rgan
ic to
GM
cot
ton
as a
resu
lt of
the
ir pa
rtic
ipat
ion
in B
CI.
Even
som
e w
elli
nten
tione
d an
d su
cces
sful
sch
emes
(suc
h as
the
Can
opyS
tyle
initi
ativ
e, w
hich
ad
dres
ses
raw
mat
eria
l sou
rcin
g in
vis
cose
pro
duct
ion)
can
pro
vide
a m
isle
adin
g pi
ctur
e, b
ecau
se t
hey
only
cove
r one
par
t of t
he su
pply
cha
in. A
s the
Can
opy
initi
ativ
e on
ly co
vers
the
sour
cing
of w
ood
pulp
, bu
t not
the
use
of c
hem
ical
s in
the
man
ufac
turi
ng o
f vis
cose
, it c
an g
ive
com
pani
es th
at a
re c
ontin
uing
to
pol
lute
the
envi
ronm
ent a
n un
just
ified
ëgre
en g
low
í ñ w
hich
is th
en o
ften
use
d as
a se
lling
poi
nt w
ith
cust
omer
s.
7"#8
9&#:.0
#3;/:
./5#3;/#'&/)*3*'.)*;4
The
mai
n co
nclu
sion
of t
his
repo
rt is
that
cer
tific
atio
n ha
s lo
st it
s w
ay a
nd th
at it
s co
ntrib
utio
n to
cre
at
ing
a m
ore
sust
aina
ble
wor
ld is
min
ute.
We
argu
e th
at it
can
eve
n ca
use
activ
e da
mag
e; it
low
ers
the
bar t
o ce
rtify
hig
her p
rodu
ct v
olum
es a
nd in
man
y ca
ses
fails
to e
nfor
ce g
reat
er tr
ansp
aren
cy, t
here
by
prov
idin
g co
ver f
or u
nsus
tain
able
com
pani
es a
nd p
ract
ices
. If t
here
is to
be
a ro
le fo
r cer
tific
atio
n in
the
tran
sitio
n to
a s
usta
inab
le e
cono
my,
it m
ust u
nder
go s
ome
serio
us re
form
s. Fi
rst o
f all,
the
maj
ority
of
sche
mes
in th
e th
ree
sect
ors
exam
ined
her
e sh
ould
be
abol
ishe
d, b
ecau
se th
ey a
re le
adin
g to
con
fu
sion
and
ëlab
el s
hopp
ingí
, whi
ch w
ater
s do
wn
the
ambi
tion
of c
ertif
icat
ion
in g
ener
al. S
econ
d, c
ertif
ica
tion
sche
mes
sho
uld
aim
for t
he h
ighe
st p
ossi
ble
leve
l of a
mbi
tion
ñ no
t dev
elop
diff
eren
t mod
ules
w
ith d
iffer
ing
requ
irem
ents
, bas
ed o
n th
eir t
arge
t mar
kets
and
to sa
tisfy
diff
eren
t com
pani
esí p
riorit
ies.
Why
has
RSP
O d
evel
oped
a vo
lunt
ary
add
on m
odul
e (R
SPO
NEX
T) to
driv
e m
ore
sust
aina
ble
prac
tices
, w
hich
will
affe
ct o
nly
a sm
all s
hare
of s
uppl
y, ra
ther
than
pro
hibi
ting
all e
xpan
sion
of p
alm
oil
to fo
rest
ed
are
as a
nd p
eatla
nds?
Thi
s pie
cem
eal a
ppro
ach
has t
o ch
ange
.
The
gene
ral p
robl
em w
ith ce
rtifi
catio
n is
that
all
thes
e sc
hem
es co
me
in th
e co
ntex
t of g
row
ing
dem
and
for
com
mod
ities
, as
wel
l as
insu
ffic
ient
nat
iona
l and
inte
rnat
iona
l reg
ulat
ion
to p
rote
ct t
he e
nviro
nm
ent a
nd s
afeg
uard
hum
an ri
ghts
. The
se s
chem
es a
lso
exis
t with
in th
e fr
amew
ork
of g
loba
lised
pro
du
ctio
n an
d co
nsum
ptio
n, w
here
com
plex
and
opa
que
supp
ly c
hain
s of
ten
obsc
ure
rele
vant
info
rma
tion
and
redu
ce th
e le
vel o
f ext
erna
l scr
utin
y. C
ertif
icat
ion
exis
ts to
add
ress
this
pro
blem
, in
part
ñ bu
t th
erei
n lie
s the
pro
blem
: for
all
thre
e se
ctor
s fea
ture
d in
this
repo
rt, m
ost o
f the
sche
mes
onl
y ce
rtify
a
very
smal
l par
t of o
vera
ll pr
oduc
tion
volu
mes
, or o
nly
one
aspe
ct o
f the
ëpro
blem
í (e.
g. o
nly
one
part
of
the
supp
ly c
hain
, onl
y ch
emic
als u
sed
at a
spec
ific p
art o
f the
pro
duct
ion
proc
ess,
etc.
). Sc
hem
es sh
ould
be
com
e m
ore
com
preh
ensi
ve a
nd a
im to
cov
er th
e w
hole
life
cyc
le o
f the
pro
duct
ñ as
is, f
or e
xam
ple,
th
e in
tent
ion
of th
e EU
Eco
labe
l.
Sche
mes
mus
t als
o be
sel
ectiv
e ab
out t
heir
mem
bers
hip,
with
hig
h en
try
requ
irem
ents
and
a c
ontin
uou
s driv
e fo
r im
prov
emen
t. Cu
rren
tly, s
chem
es a
re a
ll to
o of
ten
focu
sed
on g
ettin
g al
l ind
ustr
y pl
ayer
s on
boa
rd, o
r try
ing
to lo
wer
thei
r bar
to m
eet t
he g
row
ing
dem
and
for c
ertif
ied
prod
ucts
, whi
ch le
ads t
o a
race
to th
e bo
ttom
. Thi
s re
port
cal
ls fo
r sig
nific
ant r
efor
ms,
whi
ch s
houl
d be
bas
ed o
n th
e fo
llow
ing
four
pri
ncip
les:
Hidd
en d
ischa
rge
pipe
com
ing
from
a te
xtile
fact
ory i
n Th
aila
nd
(cred
itJo
hn N
ovis/
Gree
npea
ce)
Parm
arkh
edi w
omen
, Ind
ia,
colle
ctin
g w
ater
supp
lied
by
Gras
im si
nce
Nove
mbe
r 201
7 (th
e
villa
ge fe
ll ill i
n O
ctob
er 2
017)
.
1514
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
1.
Tran
spar
ency
, whi
ch in
clud
es a
vaila
bilit
y of
crit
eria
and
rep
ortin
g on
the
per
form
ance
of
diffe
rent
mem
bers
of t
he sc
hem
e, a
nd e
ncou
rage
s sup
ply
chai
n tr
ansp
aren
cy.
2.
Inde
pend
ence
, whi
ch in
clud
es re
mov
ing
conf
licts
of i
nter
est,
such
as
deco
uplin
g m
embe
rsh
ip re
venu
e fr
om c
ertif
icat
ion
and
com
plia
nce
outc
omes
, and
ens
urin
g in
depe
nden
t bod
ies
set t
he st
anda
rds.
3.
Hol
isti
c app
roac
h w
ith
high
trac
eabi
lity,
aim
ing
to co
ver t
he w
hole
life
cyc
le o
f a p
rodu
ct,
and
not a
llow
ing
com
pani
es to
pic
k an
d ch
oose
crit
eria
or t
o be
cert
ified
with
cond
ition
s.
4.
Aim
ing
for c
onti
nuou
s im
prov
emen
ts, w
hich
incl
udes
sett
ing
the
bar h
igh
enou
gh to
onl
y ce
rtify
com
pani
es th
at d
emon
stra
bly
go a
bove
and
bey
ond
aver
age
perf
orm
ance
and
are
com
m
itted
to c
ontin
uous
impr
ovem
ent.
Sche
mes
shou
ld a
lso
be sc
ienc
eba
sed,
refle
ct re
gula
tory
im
prov
emen
ts a
nd p
reve
nt b
acks
lidin
g.
Whi
le v
olun
tary
initi
ativ
es a
nd c
ertif
icat
ion
can
play
a ro
le in
driv
ing
mor
e su
stai
nabl
e pr
actic
es, t
his
repo
rt a
lso
conc
lude
s th
at th
ey c
anno
t ñ an
d sh
ould
not
ñ re
plac
e go
vern
men
tal a
nd in
tern
atio
nal r
eg
ulat
ions
. The
repo
rt p
ropo
ses s
ever
al m
easu
res t
hat g
over
nmen
ts, c
ompa
nies
and
con
sum
ers c
an ta
ke,
in th
e ab
senc
e of
effe
ctiv
e ce
rtifi
catio
n sc
hem
es, a
nd w
hat c
an b
e do
ne to
put
all
thre
e se
ctor
s on
a mor
e su
stai
nabl
e tr
ack.
Thi
s in
clud
es: p
riorit
isin
g sm
alls
cale
sus
tain
able
fish
erie
s; es
tabl
ishi
ng m
arin
e re
se
rves
and
sci
ence
bas
ed fi
shin
g qu
otas
, and
enf
orci
ng th
em in
the
fishe
ries
sect
or; a
mor
ator
ium
on
defo
rest
atio
n an
d pe
atla
nd d
rain
ing
in th
e pa
lm o
il se
ctor
; and
est
ablis
hing
zer
opo
llutio
n po
licie
s and
gr
eate
r sup
ply
chai
n tr
ansp
aren
cy in
the
text
ile se
ctor
.
Thes
e m
easu
res a
re u
ltim
atel
y al
so b
enef
icia
l for
com
pani
es o
pera
ting
in th
ese
sect
ors,
as th
ey g
uara
nte
e th
e lo
ngte
rm v
iabi
lity
of th
eir b
usin
ess
oper
atio
ns. I
t is
evid
ent t
hat w
ithou
t hea
lthy
ocea
ns th
ere
can
be n
o fis
h fo
r hu
man
con
sum
ptio
n, a
nd t
hat
with
out
heal
thy
fore
sts
we
risk
dan
gero
us c
limat
e ch
ange
, whi
ch w
ill a
ffect
all
agric
ultu
ral p
rodu
ctio
n ev
eryw
here
. For
the
fash
ion
indu
stry
, the
lack
of
acce
ss to
cle
an a
nd su
ffic
ient
wat
er su
pplie
s rep
rese
nts a
maj
or b
usin
ess r
isk,
whi
ch is
alre
ady
affe
ctin
g th
eir o
pera
tions
. Ind
ustr
y m
ust r
ealis
e th
at th
e sc
ale
of th
e ch
alle
nge
requ
ires
actio
ns th
at g
o be
yond
th
e w
eak
requ
irem
ents
of v
olun
tary
initi
ativ
es, a
nd li
ve u
p to
its
own
com
mitm
ents
and
mar
ket d
em
ands
for g
reat
er su
stai
nabi
lity.
Chap
ter 1
. Ab
out s
tand
ards
!"!"#<4)/;5(')*;4
Out
side
of g
over
nmen
t reg
ulat
ion,
ther
e is
a w
hole
uni
vers
e of
priv
ate,
vol
unta
ry s
chem
es a
nd in
itia
tives
to h
elp
cons
umer
s m
ake
envi
ronm
enta
lly fr
iend
ly p
urch
asin
g de
cisi
ons.
Thes
e ar
e de
sign
ed to
de
liver
impr
ovem
ents
in co
mpa
nies
í env
ironm
enta
l and
soci
al p
ract
ices
; at t
heir
best
, the
y re
pres
ent a
n ea
sy w
ay fo
r con
sum
ers
to id
entif
y re
spon
sibl
y m
anuf
actu
red
prod
ucts
and
mor
e su
stai
nabl
e se
rvic
es
with
out h
avin
g to
bec
ome
expe
rts
on e
ach
and
ever
y pr
oble
mat
ic is
sue
in a
giv
en s
uppl
y ch
ain.
Thi
s re
port
inve
stig
ates
an
arra
y of
vol
unta
ry in
itiat
ives
that
pro
vide
a c
ompa
ny, p
rodu
ct o
r ser
vice
with
a
sust
aina
bilit
y en
dors
emen
t, ra
ngin
g fr
om p
rodu
ct la
bels
to in
dust
ryw
ide
initi
ativ
es. I
t fin
ds th
at v
ol
unta
ry s
usta
inab
ility
cer
tific
atio
n ha
s la
rgel
y be
en d
erai
led
from
its
orig
inal
pro
mis
e an
d th
at, i
n th
e va
st m
ajor
ity o
f cas
es, c
onsu
mer
s are
not
get
ting
wha
t the
y pa
y fo
r with
thei
r wel
lint
entio
ned
purc
has
ing
deci
sion
s.
How
did
we
com
e to
this
pla
ce?
The
shor
t ans
wer
is th
at c
urre
nt le
vels
of g
loba
l pro
duct
ion
and
con
sum
ptio
n ar
e at
odd
s w
ith a
ttem
pts
to p
rote
ct t
he e
nviro
nmen
t. N
eolib
eral
ideo
logy
, whi
ch fa
vour
s co
mpe
titio
n an
d fr
ee tr
ade,
und
erm
ines
the
perc
eive
d ut
ility
of g
over
nmen
t reg
ulat
ion
in c
ondu
ctin
g so
cial
ly a
nd e
nviro
nmen
tally
resp
onsi
ble
busi
ness
. In
the
abse
nce
of b
indi
ng le
gal m
easu
res,
volu
ntar
y m
echa
nism
s dr
iven
by
part
ners
hips
bet
wee
n la
rge
corp
orat
ions
and
non
gov
ernm
enta
l org
anis
atio
ns
(NG
Os)
coul
d be
seen
as a
goo
d re
spon
se to
the
prob
lem
of e
nviro
nmen
tal d
estr
uctio
n.
Aga
inst
this
bac
kdro
p, th
is re
port
focu
ses o
n th
ree
sect
ors n
otor
ious
for c
ausi
ng e
xten
sive
har
m to
the
envi
ronm
ent:
palm
oil,
fish
erie
s an
d te
xtile
s. In
all
of t
hese
sec
tors
, we
find
that
man
y of
the
vol
un
tary
sche
mes
use
d as
pro
of o
f sus
tain
abili
ty a
re fa
iling
to e
nsur
e th
at c
ompa
nies
rais
e th
eir p
rodu
ctio
n st
anda
rds
or im
prov
e th
eir p
ract
ices
, res
ultin
g in
har
m to
fore
sts,
ocea
ns, a
ir an
d w
ater
sou
rces
. Whi
le
hum
an a
nd w
orke
rsí r
ight
s vio
latio
ns a
re e
ndem
ic in
all
thre
e se
ctor
s (an
d of
ten
go h
and
in h
and
with
en
viro
nmen
tal i
mpa
cts)
, we
mai
nly
focu
s on
the
envi
ronm
enta
l asp
ects
of t
hese
sche
mes
.
Base
d on
qua
litat
ive
rese
arch
, int
ervi
ews w
ith N
GO
exp
erts
and
an
exte
nsiv
e re
view
of t
he ac
adem
ic li
ter
atur
e, w
e as
sess
how
wel
l the
iden
tifie
d sc
hem
es m
easu
re u
p an
d to
wha
t ext
ent t
hey
are
driv
ing
gen
uine
impr
ovem
ents
with
in th
eir g
iven
sect
or. W
e id
entif
y flt
aws a
nd sh
ortc
omin
gs, h
ighl
ight
ing
issu
es
spec
ific t
o pa
rtic
ular
sche
mes
and
oth
er p
robl
ems t
ypic
al ac
ross
a b
road
er ra
nge
of in
itiat
ives
. Whi
le w
e fo
cus
on th
ree
sect
ors
in p
artic
ular
, we
have
als
o en
coun
tere
d th
e hi
ghlig
hted
pro
blem
s el
sew
here
in
our c
ampa
igni
ng w
ork.
On
that
bas
is, w
e vi
ew th
e la
ck o
f cre
dibl
e an
d ro
bust
sust
aina
bilit
y ce
rtifi
catio
n an
d ve
rific
atio
n fr
amew
orks
as a
syst
emic
pro
blem
, whi
ch is
act
ivel
y im
pedi
ng th
e tr
ansi
tion
to a
gen
uin
ely
sust
aina
ble
econ
omy.
With
cert
ifica
tion
and
labe
lling
sche
mes
faili
ng to
dis
tingu
ish
trul
y su
stai
nab
le p
ract
ices
from
gre
enw
ashi
ng, i
t cou
ld b
e ar
gued
that
they
are
act
ually
cre
atin
g a
mar
ket f
ailu
re: b
y re
war
ding
goo
d an
d ba
d co
rpor
ate
prac
tices
alik
e an
d m
isle
adin
g co
nsum
ers w
ho a
re u
nabl
e to
tell
the
diffe
renc
e, th
ere
is n
o ëv
irtu
ous c
ircle
í whe
reby
resp
onsi
ble
com
pani
es a
re a
ble
to b
enef
it co
mm
erci
ally
fr
om th
eir e
ffort
s.3 T
his b
eing
the
case
, it i
s im
port
ant t
o un
ders
tand
how
we
got h
ere
ñ and
wha
t nee
ds
to c
hang
e.
3 Th
is m
arke
t fai
lure
is fu
rthe
r rei
nfor
ced
by th
e fac
t tha
t man
y cer
tific
atio
n sc
hem
es ar
e pai
d fo
r by t
he p
artic
ipan
ts th
emse
lves
. Thi
s cre
ates
ineq
ualit
ies,
as it
allo
ws o
nly p
artic
ipan
ts w
ith th
e fin
anci
al m
eans
and
tech
nica
l cap
acity
to b
enef
it fro
m b
eing
a ce
rtifi
ed b
rand
, ret
aile
r or p
rodu
cer (
Mor
i Jun
ior e
t al
., 20
16: 5
95f)
.
1716
Th
e fa
lse
pro
mis
e of
cer
tifi
cati
on
BOX
1.1: T
ypes
of s
tand
ards
The
Inte
rnat
iona
l Org
aniz
atio
n fo
r Sta
ndar
diza
tion
(ISO
) ide
ntifi
es th
ree
cate
gorie
s of e
nviro
nmen
tal la
bellin
g*
(UNO
PS, 2
009)
:
Type
1: E
cola
bels
(ISO
1402
4:19
99)
Thes
e are
inde
pend
ent,
relia
ble l
abel
s tha
t con
sider
the c
riter
ia ac
ross
the l
ifec
ycle
impa
cts o
f pro
duct
s or s
ervi
ces.
Usua
lly, t
he cr
iteria
are d
evel
oped
by a
larg
e num
ber o
f sta
keho
lder
s and
are i
nten
ded
to b
e am
bitio
us, g
uara
ntee
ing
that
the l
abel
led
prod
ucts
hav
e a re
duce
d en
viro
nmen
tal im
pact
thro
ugho
ut th
eir l
ife cy
cle. E
xam
ples
inclu
de th
e Eu
rope
an U
nion
(EU)
Eco
labe
l, Ger
man
yís B
lue
Ange
l and
the
Nord
ic co
untr
iesí
Nord
ic Sw
an.
With
in Ty
pe 1
is a s
ubgr
oup
of sc
hem
es th
at ce
rtify
a sin
gle p
rodu
ct o
r crit
eria
, the
refo
re n
ot co
verin
g th
e im
pact
s ac
ross
the w
hole
life c
ycle
. Exa
mpl
es in
clude
the F
ores
t Ste
war
dshi
p Co
uncil
(FSC
) and
Mar
ine S
tew
ards
hip
Coun
cil
(MSC
). Th
ese d
o no
t qua
lify a
s Typ
e 1 ec
olab
els,
alth
ough
such
ecol
abel
s som
etim
es u
se th
ese l
abel
s to
cove
r par
t of
the s
uppl
y cha
in. F
or ex
ampl
e, th
e Eur
opea
n Co
mm
issio
n (2
017)
stat
es th
at co
mpa
nies
that
hav
e obt
aine
d FS
C ce
rtifi
catio
n ca
n us
e thi
s to
prov
e the
y mee
t cer
tain
crite
ria o
f the
EU
Ecol
abel
pap
erb
ased
pro
duct
s cer
tifica
tion.
Type
2: S
elf
decl
ared
env
ironm
enta
l cla
ims (
ISO
1402
1:199
9)
Thes
e ar
e no
t aw
arde
d by
an in
depe
nden
t aut
horit
y; ra
ther
, the
y are
self
decla
red
claim
s of e
nviro
nmen
tal s
tew
ar
dshi
p by
indu
stry
. Com
pani
es d
evel
op th
eir o
wn
labe
l or e
nviro
nmen
tal c
laim
, kno
win
g th
at c
onsu
mer
s are
in
crea
singl
y aw
are
of e
nviro
nmen
tal is
sues
and
mor
e lik
ely
to fe
el p
ositi
ve a
bout
a co
mpa
ny th
at a
ppea
rs to
be
mor
e sus
tain
able
than
its c
ompe
titor
s. Th
ese v
olun
tary
self
decla
ratio
ns ar
e cal
led
ëenvi
ronm
enta
lí or ëg
reen
í cla
ims.
They
mig
ht p
rovi
de u
sefu
l info
rmat
ion,
but
unf
ortu
nate
ly ar
e not
alw
ays t
rue,
and
are n
ot su
bjec
t to
inde
pend
ent
mon
itorin
g. F
or e
xam
ple,
indu
stry
led
carp
et ce
rtifi
catio
n sc
hem
e GU
T ha
s est
ablis
hed
a la
bel f
or ch
emic
als i
n ca
rpet
s, bu
t ind
epen
dent
anal
ysis
show
ed th
at it
rest
ricts
onl
y 13
of th
e 59
iden
tified
haz
ardo
us ch
emica
ls (H
EAL
and
EPH
A, 2
018,
p.3
).
Type
3: E
nviro
nmen
tal i
mpa
ct la
bels
(ISO
1402
5: 2
006)
Thes
e la
bels
show
qua
lified
pro
duct
info
rmat
ion
that
is in
depe
nden
tly v
erifi
ed a
nd d
esig
ned
to e
nabl
e a
com
pa
rison
bet
wee
n diffe
rent
pro
duct
s. T
ype
3 la
bels
do n
ot a
sses
s a p
rodu
ctís
envi
ronm
enta
l per
form
ance
; the
y on
ly sh
ow th
e ob
ject
ive
data
, leav
ing
eval
uatio
n to
the
buye
r or c
onsu
mer
. The
re is
sign
ifica
nt o
rgan
isatio
nal a
nd
adm
inist
rativ
e eff
ort i
nvol
ved
in T
ype
3 la
bels
beca
use
they
requ
ire e
xhau
stiv
e lif
ecy
cle d
ata
shee
ts, w
hich
are
ca
lled
envi
ronm
enta
l pro
duct
dec
lara
tions
.
This
repo
rt a
lso lo
oks a
t vol
unta
ry in
itiat
ives
that
fall o
utsid
e th
ese
thre
e ca
tego
ries b
ut a
re n
ever
thel
ess u
sed
by co
mpa
nies
as p
roof
of s
usta
inab
ility,
or as
a m
easu
re o
f per
form
ance
that
hel
ps to
diff
eren
tiate
them
selv
es o
r th
eir s
uppl
iers
.
* It i
s wor
th n
otin
g th
at ot
her t
ypes
of b
indi
ng la
bels
also
hav
e env
ironm
enta
l rel
evan
ce, s
uch
as th
e EU
Ener
gy La
bel,
whi
ch is
man
dato
ry fo
r all p
rodu
cts s
old
on th
e EU
mar
ket.
#!"1"#=
9.)#./&#,(,).*4.>*?*)0#,).45./5,@
Sust
aina
bilit
y st
anda
rds
and
cert
ifica
tion
sche
mes
hav
e pr
olife
rate
d ov
er th
e pa
st tw
o de
cade
s, as
the
priv
ate
sect
or a
nd e
nviro
nmen
tal a
dvoc
ates
hav
e so
ught
to im
prov
e co
mpa
nies
í soc
ial a
nd e
nviro
nm
enta
l per
form
ance
aga
inst
a b
ackd
rop
of g
over
nmen
t der
egul
atio
n.
In a
clim
ate
of h
eigh
tene
d co
nsum
er c
once
rn a
bout
the
envi
ronm
ent,
anim
al w
elfa
re a
nd re
spec
t for
hu
man
righ
ts, t
he st
ated
goa
l of l
abel
ling
sche
mes