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The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

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The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud
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Page 1: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud
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Thisbookisdedicatedtomybeautifulfamily,withoutwhomtherewouldbenothing.

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Contents

Fromthentoeternity

Essentialingredients

Toolsofthetrade

Biscuitssecs(Biscuits)

Gâteauxetdesserts(Cakesanddesserts)

Tartesettourtes(Tartsandpies)

Pâteàchoux(Chouxpastry)

Pâtefeuilletée(Puffpastry)

Croissants

Brioches

Pains(Breads)

Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes(Jams,compotes,spreadsand

creams)

Glossary

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Frenchrecipelist

Index

Acknowledgments

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Fromthentoeternity

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IttooksomeperspectiveformetofullyunderstandhowIbecameinvolvedinthefoodindustryandhowIdevelopedmypassionforbakingandpâtisserie.Certainly,itwasn’tuntilIhadmovedawayfromthecountrythatIwasbroughtupinthatIbegantorealisehowdeeplyfoodisentrenchedinFrenchcultureandhowitinfuseseveryaspectofone’slife.

Surprisingly,perhaps,myfamilywasneveroverlyenthusiasticaboutfood,unlikesomeofmyfriends’families.AsachildIdon’trecallmyparentsevercookingelaboratedishes,theyrarelydrankwineexceptonoccasionssuchasChristmasorperhapsabirthday,andwehardlyeveratebreadwithourfoodordrankcaféaulait—hardlythetypicalFrenchfamilyatall.Nowadays,however,thestoryisalittledifferent—mymotherhasdiscoveredherinnermasterchefandmyfathercanbeoftenfoundinthekitchenslicingtomatoesorforaginginthegardenforherbs.ButwhenmysisterandIweregrowingup,foodwasregardedalmostasanafterthought,anecessitymorethananythingelse.EventodaymyfatherlikestoremindmethatoneofthebiggestshocksofhislifewaswhenItoldhimIwasleavingschooltobecomeapastrychef.Althoughhehasalwaysbeensupportiveofmydecision,itwassuchanunexpectedannouncementthatIdon’tthinkhehaseverfullyrecovered!

Foodingeneral,andbakinginparticular,bringspeopletogether—it’spartofthegluethatbindssocieties.Althoughsharingamealorcelebratinganoccasionwithfamilyandfriendsisundoubtedlypartofthefabricofeveryculturetheworldover,inFrancefoodisregardedasoneofthemainpillarsoftheartdevivre(theartofliving),alongsidemusic,fineartsorphilosophy.

GastronomyinFrancehasimbuedeveryaspectofsociety;ithasbeenritualised,romanticised,politicisedandeveninstitutionalised,havingbeenlistedbyUNESCOasanIntangibleCulturalHeritageofHumanity.Itisseennotasamerenecessityorasanaccompanimentforaspecialoccasion,butasanintegralpartofhowFrenchpeopledefinethemselves.IneveryFrenchcityandeveryvillageyouwillfindnotonlyashopthatspecialisesinfinepâtisseriesandconfectioneries,abakeryforyourbreadsandviennoiseriebutalsomostlikelyachocolateshop,aspecialisedconfectioneryboutique,atraiteur(delicatessen),afruitandvegetablemarket,acheeseshop…thelistgoeson.

ForaslongasIcanremember,Ihavealwayslikedsweetthings,notsomuchfortheirtastebutforwhattheyrepresented.Dessertsandsweetfoodwere,andstillare,intimatelylinkedwithnearlyeveryhappyoccasioninmylife:acandle-litcakeforabirthdaysurroundedbyallmyfriendsandfamily;abriochedesroisstuddedwithdriedfruitforChristmas;orsimplywakinguponaSaturdaymorningwiththesmellofcroissantsbakingintheovenandthesoundofanoldJimiHendrixrecordplaying,anddraggingmyselftotheterraceforbreakfastwithmymother,dadandsister.

Thesheersmellofsomecakesanddessertsalsotakesmebacktomykitchenathome,

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standinguponawoodenstoolwhileIhelpedmymothermakeapoundcakeandthen,ofcourse,theinevitablefightwithmysisterastowhowasgoingtolickthebowlclean;orofsittinginmygrandmother’skitchen,listeningtoherstorieswhileshefriedherdeliciousbugnes.Thesearejustafewofthemanyhundredsofseeminglyinconsequentialmomentsthatmakeupachildhood,lyingdormantinthedeepestconfinesofone’smemory,readytobeunearthedinaninstantbyeventhesimplesttasteorsmell.

IrememberclearlywhenIfirstbegantounderstandtheincredibleemotivepoweroffood.EveryyearmymothertookmysisterandmetothebestpâtisserieinMarseille,tocelebrateStMichel’sday,ourpatronsaint.Onthisdayonly,wewereallowedtoeatasmanycakesandpastries,chocolatesandicecreamsaswewanted.Thisyearlytreatwassuchanexcitingtimeformeand,lookingbackonitnow,Icanseethatthiswasactuallywheremybakingjourneybegan.Oneyear,asweweresittingatasmalltabledrinkingoutoffancylittleteacups,surroundedbydazzlingdisplaysofcolourfulcakesandbiscuits,andknowingthatIcouldliterallyeatthewholeshopifIwantedto,IwaspromptedtoaskmymotherifIcouldspendmydaysoffschooldoingsomeworkexperienceinthekitchen.Mymothertalkedtothechefand,amazingly,theybothagreed,adecisionthatseemedsoinconsequentialatthetimebutwastochangemylifeforever.

By4amthefollowingWednesdayIwassittingnervouslyontheedgeofmybed,showeredanddressed,myheadspinningwithamixtureoffearandexcitement.Iwillneverforgetthatday.ItwasabitterlycoldmorningasmymotherandIsteppedinsidetheshopandwalkeddownthenarrow,dustywoodenstairs.Irememberthewarm,sweetsmellthatwafteduptogreetus,thensteppingintoakitchenfilledwithgiganticblocksofbutterandridiculouslylargebagsofflours,thetablescoveredwithtraysofshiny,translucentcandiedfruitsandjarsofgoldenhoney.Itwasatotalsensoryoverload—asensationthatissodeeplyingrainedinmymemorythateventodayIgetnervouseverytimeIwalkintoanewkitchen.

WhatIrecallmostaboutthosemorningswereallthoseburlychefshardatwork,liftingheavysacksofflourandcarryingback-breakingloadsofbutter,thenmovingseamlesslyintosubtleandprecisemovements,astheypipeddelicateornamentsoncakesorcarefullycutcroissantswiththeirenormousknives.Isoonrealisedhowmuchworkwasneeded,dayin,dayout,toproducetheseincrediblyintricateandtechnicalproducts,eatenwithoutsomuchasathoughtabouttheeffortittooktomakethem.AllthosebaguettesthatIateeveryday,thebrioches,lemontarts…somucheffortforseeminglysolittlerecognitionorfinancialreward.

WhatIbegantounderstand,overtime,wasthattherealrewardofworkingsohardtomakesomethingsocomplexlooksosimple,highlightsthefactthatbakingandcookingfulfilthosebasicneedsweallhave—theneedtocreate,contribute,shareandlove.Forme,thisencapsulatestheessenceofbaking:usingyourownhandstomakesomethingoutofsimple,honestingredients,somethingpreparednotforsustenanceorfinancialgain,but

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purelyforthepurposeofbringingwarmthandhappiness,howeversmall,toanotherperson’slife.

TherecipesthatIhavechosentoincludeinthisbookholdalotofmeaningforme.Somearemoretraditionalthanothers,somearesimpleandothersabitmoreintricate,butallofthemareachievableinyourownkitchen.Beingagoodbakersometimesrequiresabasicunderstandingofchemistry,soIhavetriedtoprovideyouwithallthetechnicalinformationyoumightneedaswell,notonlytohelpyoutomaketheserecipesbutalsotogiveyoutheconfidencetoexperimentandcreateandtomotivateyoutofurtheryourjourneyintotheamazingandrewardingworldofbaking.Itrulyhopethatthisbookwillinspireyoutogivebakingachance.Everyonerelatestofoodbasedontheirownexperiencesbut,forme,ofallthetastesonlysweetcrossesthecultural,genderorgenerationalgapbyreachingdirectlyintoourdeepestchildhoodmemories,sothateventhesimplestofcakesordessertsmadeusingthesmallestamountofskillwillalwaysbereceivedasthegrandestofgestures.

JeanMichelRaynaud

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Essentialingredients

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Essentialingredients

Bakingisasmuchaboutscienceasitiscreativity.Assuch,thisbookisdesignedtoequipyouwithstrongbakingfoundationsuponwhichyoushouldfeelfreetoaddyourowncreativeorpersonalstamp—thisis,afterall,howmosttraditionalrecipescameabouttobeginwith.I’vetriednottoconfuseyouwithtoomanytechnicaltermsorguidelines,asthisbookisn’tmeanttoturnyouintoaprofessionalpâtissierbutrathertogiveyouthebasictoolstosuccessfullybakedeliciouscakesandpastriesathome.

Thefollowingtwosectionscovermostoftheessentialingredientsandtoolsyou’llneedasabaker,butitcertainlydoesn’tendhere.TherearelimitlessresourcesatyourfingertipsandI’dencourageyoutoreadfurther,especiallyonsubjectssuchasbakingbreadandworkingwithchocolate,tofurtherhoneyourcookingskills.AsanapprenticeIwastoldthatyoucanget80percentofthequalitywith20percentoftheskills,butyouwillneedtheother80percentoftheskillstoachievetheremaining20percentofthequality!

F lour

Whilemostgrainscanbegroundintoatypeofflour,inthisbookplain(all-purpose)flouralwaysreferstowheatflour.

Flourismostlygradedfollowingthreecriteria:theamountofmineralorash(whichismademostlyofbran),theprotein(gluten)contentandthehumiditylevel,allofwhichvaryaccordingtothetypeofwheatandhowitisprocessed.Systemsforgradingflourvarywildlyacrosstheglobe,rangingfromthedifferentnumericalclassificationsemployedinFrance,ItalyandGermany,whichrelatestotheamountofbranintheflour(seebelow),tothoseusedintheUnitedKingdom,AmericaandAustralia,whereflourtendstobegradedusingwordstodescribetheamountofprotein(gluten)orthebestapplicationfortheflour(‘breadflour’or‘cakeflour’,forexample).

Brancontent:Thisisoftenclassifiedusingnumbers,withlargernumbersindicatingahigherbrancontent:

‘00’flourinItalyandT45inFrance;

‘0’flourinItalyandT55inFrance;

‘1’flourinItalyandT65andaboveinFrance.

WhichflourshouldIuse?

Mostoftherecipesinthisbookwillworkwellwithagenerictypeofplain(all-purpose)flour,howeverIdorecommendyoutrytofindafloursuitedformakingbread.Forbestresults,agood

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ruleofthumbtofollowwhenchoosingwhichflourtouseisasfollows:

LForallcakebattersandshortdoughs,it’spreferabletouseaveryrefined,low-bran,low-proteinplain(all-purpose)flour.Whileyouneedsomeglutenfor‘short’mixessuchasshortbreadandspongestoprovidestructure,toomuchglutenwillhaveadetrimentaleffectontheirtexturebymakingthemtougherandlesspalatable.Thisflourissoldundermanylabels:pastryorcakeflour,orsoftflour.

LForallyeastedpastryandbreads,useaplain(all-purpose)flour,preferablywithahighglutencontent.Glutenisacriticalingredientinthemanufactureofyeastedpastryandbreadsasitgivesthedoughitsstrengthandelasticity(corps),whichtrapstheairandcarbondioxide(CO2)createdbytheyeastsduringtheprovingprocess.Thisistypicallysoldasstrong,baker’sorbreadflour.

LForsourdoughbread,Irecommendusingaless-refined,preferablyorganicplain(all-purpose)flourwithahighglutencontent.Ahigherbrancontentisimportantwhenbakingsourdoughbecausethehighermineralcontenthelpsthenaturalyeasttodevelopfaster,improvingboththetextureandtasteofthebread.Thistypeofflourisbestsourcedfromhealthfoodstoresor,evenbetter,fromartisanalbakeries,whowillusuallybehappytosellyouasmallquantityofflour.Thisflourisalsosoldashardorstrongflour,baker’sorbreadflour.

Maizecornflour

Maizecornflour(cornstarch),alsoknownasmaizena,maizeflourandmaizestarch,ismadebygrindingcornkernelsandthenseparatingtheflourfromitsproteinsandallothercomponents.Itisaveryfine,tastelesspowderanddoesnotcontaingluten.Itisusedtothickensaucesandasareplacementforsomeoftheplainflourinshortbreaddough,toreducetheglutencontent,thuskeepingthedoughcrumblyandshort.Youcanfindmaizecornflourinmajorsupermarkets,healthfoodstoresorspecialistfoodstores.

Wheatencornflour

To confuse the issue, some brands of cornflour (cornstarch) sold insupermarkets inAustraliaareactuallymadefromwheat,notcorn(checkthelabelcarefully).Personally,IseenoreasonwhyyoushouldusethistypeandIalwaysrecommendthatyouusetruemaizecornflourmadefrommaize(corn).Whilewheatencornflourlooksverysimilartomaizecornflour,therearetwodistinctdifferences:

LFirstly,aswheatencornflourisgroundfromwheatandcontainsgluten,itwilladdacertainamountofelasticitytoyoursaucesandcustards.Itcan’tbeusedasafloursubstituteinshortcrustdoughs.

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LSecondly,asathickener,wheatstarchabsorbslesswaterthancornflour,soyouwillneedtoadjusttherecipebyaddingalittlelessliquidoralittlemorewheatstarch.

Yeast

Yeastisanaturallivingorganismthatmetabolisesstarchsugarsintocarbondioxidegasandethanolduringtheprovingstagesofdough-making.Thedoughrisesthankstotheproliferationofcarbondioxidebubbles,whicharetrappedinthedoughbythegluten,andistheunderlyingreasonbehindusingflourwithahighprotein(gluten)contentforbakingbreadsandleavenedpastries.

Freshyeast Freshcompressedyeastispackagedasablockofsoft,moistlivingyeastcells.Itis the preferred ingredient used by professional bakers for its leaveningcapacity, but has a short life-span, making it rather wasteful for the homebaker.Asaruleofthumb,toconvertfreshyeasttoinstantdryyeast,usehalftheamount.Forexample,14g(½oz)freshyeastequals7g(¼oz)instantdryyeast.

Instantdriedyeast

Thisprocessedyeast isoriginallymade from the same livingculture as freshyeast, but has been dried and transformed into small granules that can beadded directly to your dough, verymuch as youwould fresh yeast. It has amuchlongerlife-spanthanfreshyeast,soisperfectforthehomebaker.Alltherecipesinthisbookuseinstantdriedyeastforthisreason.

Bicarbonateofsodaandbakingpowder

Theseleavening(rising)agentsreleasegasesmuchfasterthanconventionalyeastsanddonotrelyasmuchasyeastsdoontheelasticityofthemixescreatedbytheproteinintheflour.Consequently,theyarereallyusefulwhenbakinggoodssuchassponges,poundcakesorevencertaintypesofshortbreadswhenthetasteoffreshyeastisundesirableandtheglutencontentislow.

Bicarbonateofsoda

Bicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)isapotentleaveningagentthatcreatesrapidcarbon dioxide bubbles when exposed to an acid, such as chocolate, brownsugarorlemon.Awordofadvice:thisshouldbeusedinverysmallquantitiesand always measure it carefully. Too much will give a soapy taste to yourproducts.

Baking This is primarily bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) that has already beenmixed with an acid, usually cream of tartar and cut with cornflour

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powder (cornstarch).Itcanbeaddedtowetmixesthathavelittleornootheracidsandstill produce carbon dioxide. Due to the fact that the active ingredient(bicarbonate of soda) has been diluted, the ratio of baking powder used inbakingisalwayshigherthanbicarbonateofsoda.

Sugar

Bothsugarbeetandsugarcaneproduceidenticalcomplexsugars(sucrose),composedoftwosimplesugars:dextrose,commonlycalledglucose;andfructose,themainingredientininvertsugar(trimoline).Boththeseingredientsareusedinprofessionalbaking.Technicallyspeaking,theyarehygroscopic(theyabsorbmoisturefromtheair),whichhelpsslowdownthecrystallisationofsugarsincreamsandcaramelsandprolongsthesoftnessofspongesandcakes.Thetypesofsugarmostcommonlyusedinthisbookinclude:

Castersugar Refinedfrombothsugarcaneandsugarbeet,caster(superfine)sugarishighlyprocessed pure sucrose and comes in the form of fine, clear crystals thatdissolveeasilyinliquid.Thismakesitpreferabletocoarserregularwhitesugarforbaking,especiallywhenmakingmeringue.

Rawsugar Raw(demerara)sugarisalessrefinedformofsugarextractedfromsugarcane.It isminimallyprocessedand still contains someof itsmolasses (around3.5percent),whichgivesitamorecomplexflavourandalightbrowncolour.Asthe crystals are relatively large, raw sugardoesn’tdissolve as readily as caster(superfine)sugar,soitisusedmainlytoadddepthofflavourandalittleextratexturetobiscuitsandcrumbles.

Brownsugar Brownsugar ismuch less refined thanbothcaster (superfine) sugarandraw(demerara)sugar.Theheavytextureandbrowncolourisduetoitsveryhighmolassescontent(around10percent).I’mnotabigfanofthistypeofsugarbecauseitsstrongflavourtendstoeasilyovershadowotherflavours.

Pureicingsugar

Pureicing(confectioners’)sugarisaveryfinewhitepowderedsugarmadeof100percentsucrose;itissimplytheresultoffinelycrushingcaster(superfine)sugar.Mostoften,youwill comeacross icing (confectioners’) sugarmixture,whichisessentiallythesameproductbuthasasmallamountofstarchaddedtopreventthesugarfromabsorbinghumidityfromtheairandforminghardlumps.Iprefertousepureicingsugaroverthemixtureandjustpassitthrougha finemesh sieve to remove any lumps. You can alsowhizz it up in a foodprocessorbeforeusingit.

Pearl sugar (also calledhail sugar or nibbed sugar) is oftenused to decorate

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Pearlsugar andtoaddcrunchandsweetnesstobiscuitsandpastries,suchaschouquettes.Thishighly refined formof sugar is compacted and then crushed into smallballs,whichcanwithstandhighheatwithoutmelting.

Salt

Apinchofsaltgoesalongwayincookingandiscriticalfordevelopingflavour,balanceandstability.Bakingisnoexception.Thereisamultitudeofdifferentsaltsonthemarketthesedays,rangingincolourfrompinktogrey,andinpricefromthecheapesttablesalttohigh-end‘gourmet’salts.Sowhatsaltshouldyouuseandwhen?

Seasaltorrocksalt ?

Let’sputthistorestonceandforall.Saltisamineralcalledsodiumchloride.Irrespectiveofwhetherithasbeenharvesteddirectlyfromtheseaordissolvedfromrocksedimentscreatedoverhundredsofmillionsofyearsago,sodiumchlorideremainssodiumchloride.Inbothcases,itwouldhavecomefromtheseaatonetimeoranother.Thereis,however,averydistinctdifferenceinhowthesaltisprocessed,resultinginseveraltypesofsaltcrystals,eachusedfordifferentpurposes.

Cookingsalts

Finesalt Fine salt (table salt) is made of very small, cubic crystals created by rapidvacuumevaporationofthebrinefromrocksaltorseawater.Unlikesaltflakes,these crystals of salt are tightly packed together and are hard to melt andcannotbeusedastexturalelements,asthistypeofsaltalwaystastestoo‘salty’.Finetablesalt,however,isperfectforuseindoughs,creams,saucesandstocks,ortodrymeatandpicklevegetables.

Finishingsalts

Saltflakes Saltflakesarecreatedbygentleevaporationofthebrine.Unlikefinetablesalt,they aremadeof largerpyramid-like flakes thatmelt easily, so are ideal as acondiment,orsprinkledoncaramels,chocolateorcandiedfruits.Duetothelarger sizeof their crystals and their ability todissolvequickly in themouth,saltflakesprovidealesssaltytastethanfinesalt.

OriginatingfromGuérande,onthewestcoastofFrance,thisisconsideredthe

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Fleurdesel RollsRoyceofsalts.This typeofsalt ismadeof largecrystalsand is ideal foraddingbothtextureandasubtlehintofsaltinesstoyourcaramelsorfruit.Thesaltcrystalsonlyformunderspecificclimaticconditionsandareharvestedbyhand, making it a labour-intensive, finite resource and, as such, is quiteexpensive.

Butter

OneofthefundamentalingredientsinFrenchcookery,butterisespeciallyimportantinpâtisserieandbaking.Likemanythings,notallbutteriscreatedequalandvariessignificantlyinbothqualityandtaste,andthereforeprice.Hereareafewimportantthingstoconsiderwhenbuyingbutterforbaking.

Saltornosalt ?

Historically,saltwasaddedtobutterasapreservativebeforetheadventofrefrigeration.Todayitismainlyusedinsavourycooking,forthemanufactureofacidiccreamssuchasahollandaiseorbeurreblanc,ortospreadontoasttoaddanotherlayeroftaste.Inbaking,however,alotofrecipesdonotrequiresalt,soitisfarbettertoaddsalttorecipesthatneedseasoningratherthanusingsaltedbutter.

Howmuchfatistoomuchfat ?

Believeitornot,thereissuchathinginFrenchbakingastoomuchofagoodthing!Todaybuttersfromaroundtheworldcontainbetween80and85percentfat.Typically,Europeanbuttercontainsaslightlyhigherfatcontent(hencelesswater)andisbettersuitedforuseinflakypastriessuchascroissantandpuff.Butterwithalowerfatcontent(andthereforehigherwatercontent),suchasthosefoundinNewZealand,AustraliaandAmerica,emulsifybettersoaremoresuitablethanEuropeanbutterswhenmakingemulsifiedbasessuchascurds,ganachesandcreamedcakebatters.

Culturedornotcultured?

Culturedbutterwastraditionallymadefromfermentedrawcream,buttodayitisusuallymadebyaddingacultureandlacticacidtothepasteurisedcreambeforethechurningprocess,thenlettingthebutterageinstorage.Thisprocessprovidesanaddeddepthofflavourcomparedtoregularbutterandhasamoreyeastyor‘buttery’flavour.It’sidealforbalancingthetartnessorbitternessofcreamssuchassaltedcaramel,lemoncurds,organachesmadewithahighcocoacontent.Foranyothercreams,especiallythosemadewithsubtleflavoursorsweeterchocolatesuchasmilkorwhite

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chocolate,Irecommendyouuseastandard,off-the-shelfunsaltedbutter.

Cream

Buttermilkfatislessdensethanbuttermilk,soitrisestothetopofthemilkandformsathicklayer,whichisskimmedoffbeforethemilkishomogenised.Thedifferenttypesofcreamrefertotheamountofbutterfattheycontainand,asageneralguide,theyarebrokenintothreegroups.

Typesofcream

Lightcream Alsoknownassinglecreamorpouringcream,thiscontains18–25percentfat.Personally,Ineverusethiscream.Itistoothintouseonfruitorforpouringdirectlyonatartordessert,anddoesnotcontainenoughfattocontributetothetextureandfeelofanybakedgoods.

Whippingcream

This cream contains 35 per cent fat. It is themost common cream used inbaking,andistheonlycreamIeveruseincooking.Ithastheperfectratiooffatto liquid and adds a wonderful creaminess to your ganache, curds or cakebatters.ItistheonlycreamyoucanusetowhipintoasmoothandfluffycrèmeChantilly.Confusingly, some35percent fatcreamscontaingelatineandarelabelled‘thickenedcream’,somakesureyoucheckthelabel.

Thickcream Alsoknownasdoublecream,heavyorthickdollop,thistypecontains48percentfatandover.Whilesomebakersoccasionallyusethiscream,Ionlyeveruse it as a servingaccompaniment. Ioftenadda small amountof alcohol tomitigate its richness; for example, a small amountofCalvadosmixedwith agenerousdollopofthickcream,toserveonawarmtartetatin.

However,thissystemofcategorisingcreamsisoftenconfusingforthecookbecausethefatcontentvariesfromcountrytocountryandevenfrombrandtobrand.Thebestwaytochoosetherightcreamforyourneedsistogobythefatcontentonthelabelandnotbythetypeofcreamlistedonthelabel.

Eggs

Ialwayschoosefree-rangeeggsovercagedeggsforobviousreasons,butsurprisinglyenough,whenitcomestobaking,therearenonoticeabledifferencesbetweenthetwo.Thetypeofeggyouchooseisentirelyuptoyou,andwillbeadecisionbasedmoreoneconomicalandethicalreasonsthananythingelse.

Whileeggscomeinavarietyofsizes,rangingfrommedium(40–50g/1½–1¾oz),large(50–60g/

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1¾–2¼oz)toextra-large(60–70g/2¼–2½oz),withsomeweighingalmost80g(2¾oz),alltheeggsusedinthisbookare55g(2oz),whichisabakingindustrystandardsize.

Hereareafewusefultips:

LWhenbakingwithsmallquantitiesofeggs,breaktheeggsintoabowlandwhiskthemlightlywithaforksothatyouendupwithanevendistributionofeggyolkandwhite.

LWhenmakingmeringue,alwaysmakesureyourbowlisspotlesslycleanbeforeaddingthewhites—useapieceofpapertowelmoistenedwithalittlevinegartowipethebowlclean—andmakesureyourwhitesdonotcontainanytracesofeggyolk.Eggyolkcontainsabout60percentfatandwillpreventyoureggwhitesfromwhiskingtotheirfullestpotential.

LUseeggsatroomtemperature.Thisisveryimportantwhenmakingmeringuebecausecoldeggwhitesarelesselastic,andsoarelessabletoretainair.Inrecipesusingwholeeggs,thewarmthoftheairtemperaturesoftensthefatintheyolkandmakesiteasiertoemulsifywithotherliquids.

LSometimesarecipewillcallforanexactweightofeggwhitesratherthananumber,soyouwillneedtoseparatetheeggsintoabowlandweighthem.Asaguide,a55g(2oz)eggcanbebrokendownintothreeparts:30g(1oz)forthewhite,20g(¾oz)fortheyolkand5g(1/8oz)fortheshell.

Eggwash

Usedtoaddcolourandshinetopastriesandbreads,mosteggwashesaresimplymadeoflightlywhiskedeggsandapinchofsalt.Sometimesadashofmilk,creamorwaterisaddedtothintheeggwash.Thereareafewkeyfactorsthatwilldeterminehowfastanddeepthecolourdevelops.

Theratioofalbumen(eggwhite)toeggyolk:Whileboththeeggwhiteandyolkcontainproteinsthatbrownduringbaking,itisthefatintheyolkthatcontributesmosttoashinieranddarkerfinish.

Thesugarcontentofthebatterordough:Therearetwobrowningreactionsthathappenduringbaking:caramelisation(browningofthesugar,orsucrose,inthebatter)andtheMaillardreaction(thebrowningoftheproteinsandcarbohydrates).Putsimply,themoresugarinyourpastry,themoreitisgoingtocolourduringbaking.

Oventemperature:Ifyourovenistoohot,thetopwillbrownbeforethedoughinsideiscooked,socolourationisnotalwaysareliablesignthatyourpastriesandbreadsaredone.

Hereareafewtipstohelpyoudecidewhattypeofeggwashtouse:

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LWhenbakingpastriesorbreadsthathaveahighsugarcontent,suchasshortbreadandbrioche,makeaneggwashusingwholeeggsandapinchofsalt.Thispreventsthetopfrombrowningtooquicklyandtoomuchbeforethedoughiscookedthrough.

LWhenbakingdoughsthathavealowsugarcontent,suchaspuffpastryorpâtebrisée,addmoreyolkstotheeggwashtoachievegoodcolourinthetimeittakesthepastrytocook.

Chocolate

Mostofthechocolateweeattodaycomesfromthreetypesofcocoabean(orcacaobean)—Forastero,CriolloandTrinitario—whichallvaryimmenselyinrichness,flavourandtaste,aswellasyieldandavailability.Forasteroisthemostwidelyavailable;ithasablanderflavourandacheaperprice.Criollohasaverystrongtasteandistherarestandthereforethemostexpensivecocoabean.Trinitario,ahybridcrop,hasamorerefinedflavourandispreferredbysmaller,morespecialisedchocolatemanufacturers.

Thechocolatemanufacturingprocesses

Beforeendingupastheproductwelovesomuch,cocoabeansmustundertakealengthyseriesofprocesses,allcriticaltothefinishedflavourandtextureofthechocolate.

Fermentation:Thefruitsareharvested,thensplittoremovethebeansandpulp,whicharethenlefttofermentnaturallyoverseveraldays.Thisprocessiscriticalforthebeantodevelopitskeyflavoursandnuancesandreducesitsinherentbitterness.

Dryingandroasting:Thefermentedbeansandpulparethenseparatedandthebeansaredriedtopreventmouldgrowth.Thebeansareroastedtorefinetheflavoursandfurtherreducetheacidity.

Grindingandconching:Oncethebeanshavebeenroasted,thenibsareseparatedfromthehusks,groundandliquefiedintoathickpastecalledcocoamassorliquor.Thispasteisthenfurtherrefinedintotwocomponents:cocoabutter(theflavourcarrier)andcocoasolids(theflavour).Atthisstage,cocoabutter,cocoasolids,sugarandasmallamountsoylecithinaremixedinvariousratios,dependingonthemanufacturer’spreference,tomanufacturedarkchocolate.Milksolidsareaddedtomakemilkchocolate.Theseingredientsarethenputthroughaprocesscalledconching,wheretheyaregroundtogether,sometimesoverdays,tofurtherrefinethetextureandflavourofthefinalproduct.

Tempering:Thisprocessinvolvesheatingandthencoolingthechocolate,toavoidtheformationoflarge,irregularfatcrystals,typicallyexemplifiedbyawhite,mould-likecoatingandgrainytexture.

Typesofchocolate

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Darkchocolate

Most chocolate sold today has a percentage reference clearly printed on thepackaging,typicallyrangingfrom55–80percent.Thispercentagereferstotheamountofcocoa(orcocoamass)thechocolatecontains.Forexample,a60percentchocolatewillbemadeof60percentcocoamasswiththeremaining40percentrepresentingthesugarcontentandasmallamountofemulsifyingsoylecithin.Consequently, the flavourof the chocolatewillbecome increasinglypronouncedwiththeincreaseinpercentage(andtheconsequentreductioninsweetness).

Milkchocolate

This is made by adding milk solids (milk powder) to a conventional darkchocolate.Theycomeinavarietyofpercentages,somesweeterthanothers.Ialwaysrecommendusingahighpercentagecocoacontent,around40–45percent,which,bydefinition,contains lesssugarandconsequentlyretainsmoreoftheoriginalcocoacharacteristics.

Whitechocolate

Theelephantintheroom,whitechocolatedoesnotcontainanycocoasolids.It is a concoction of milk solids (milk powder), cocoa butter and sugar. Itshouldbeusedsparinglyasittendstobeoverlysweet(itcontainsupto60percentsugar)andcanquicklyoverpowerothersubtleflavours.

Cocoapowder

This is made by extracting cocoa butter from the cocoa mass by hydraulicpressing.Itisthenpulverisedintoapowder.Initspureform,cocoapowderisunsweetened and bitter and this is the cocoa I use in allmy recipes. Dutchcocoa is unsweetened cocoa that has been treated to neutralise its inherentacidity.However,becauseyou sometimesneed theacid in the cocoa tohelpactivatebicarbonateofsodaandgivealifttocakesandbiscuits,Iprefertouseregular cocoa powder. Sweetened cocoa powder is typically used for hotchocolateandistoosweettocookwith.

WhichchocolateshouldIchoose?

Asacook,it’seasytofallintothetrapofbuyinghighpercentagechocolatebecauseitisperceivedasbeingbetter—butit’sallaboutbalance.Thetypeofchocolateyouusewillhaveacriticalimpactonhowyourcreamsemulsifyandset.Usingachocolatewithahighercocoapercentagethanrecommendedintherecipewillhardenyourcreamstoomuchandmostlikelydestabilise(split)theemulsionduetotheincreaseincocoafat.Conversely,usingachocolatewithalowerratioofcocoathanrecommendedwillgiveyouasofterfinishedproduct.

Theamountofsugarthechocolatecontainsisanotherkeyconsideration,asit’simportanttofindtherightbalanceofsweetnessandflavour.Forexample,ifyou’recookingwithchocolatethatcontainsahighpercentagecocoa(andthuslowinsugar),youwillneedtoneutralisetheinherent

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bitternesswithatouchofchilli,strongspices,saltorpepper.Asweetchocolate,ontheotherhand,willbenefitfromtheadditionofatartoracidictastesuchaslime,pineappleorGreekyoghurt.

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Toolsofthetrade

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Toolsofthetrade

Peoplehavebeenbakingforthousandsofyearswithlittlemorethanapot,acuttingdeviceandsomefire.Whileit’stemptingtobuylotsofbeautifulbitsandpieces,manyoftheseendupinthebottomofadrawergatheringdust,orbreakeasilyandendupinthebin.Ratherthanbuyinglotsofequipment,Ithinkit’smuchbettertoinvestinafewbasicgood-qualitypieces.Toachievegoodresultsyoudon’tnecessarilyneedallthebellsandwhistles,andyoucanalwaysimprovise—asimplebottlemakesaperfectrollingpinandapairofhandscankneadbreaddoughtoperfection.

Ovens

Thereareseveraldifferenttypesofovensavailable,butIwillfocusontheonesyouarelikelytouseinadomestickitchen.

Convection(fan-forced)ovens

Thisisthemostcommondomesticovenandalltherecipesinthisbookusethistype.Convectionovensworkbyrotatingtheambientheatgeneratedbytheheatingelement,ensuringabetterheatdistribution.Italsoincreasestheoveralloventemperatureintheovencomparedtoastatic(non-fan-forced)oven.

Staticovens

Theseovensuseradiantheatviaelementssituatedinsidethecookingchamberandrelyuponnaturalconvectiontodistributetheheat.Assuch,theyaremorelikelytohaveanirregularcookingpatternandarepronetohotspots(seetips).Whenusingastaticoven,increasetherecommendedtemperaturefortherecipesinthisbookby10°C(18°F).

Refractoryovens

Mostoftenpoweredbywood-fireorelectricity,theseovensworkbyambientheat,wheretheheatingelementwarmsathicklayerofbricksorbakingstonessituatedonthebottomoftheoven.Theheatisthenrefractedfromthetopbyanotherlayerofbricksorstone.Personally,Ithinkthisistheonlytypeofovensuitableforbakingsourdoughbreadsandbecausemosthomecooksdon’thaveaccesstothistypeofoven,Ididnotincludeanyrecipesforsourdoughbreadinthisbook.If,however,you’reluckyenoughtohaveabackyardwood-firedoven,allofthebreadrecipesinthisbookwillcookperfectlyinit.

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Importanttips:

Coolit:Keepinmindthattheoveninyourkitchenisafractionofthesizeweuseincommercialbakingand,assuch,theheatingelementwillbeclosertoyourgoods.WhileIhavetriedtoadjusttherecommendedcookingtemperaturestoaccommodatethis,yourovenwillalmostalwaysbehotterthanwhatthedialindicates.Tobesafe,beginbakingat10°C(18°F)lessthanrecommended;youwillhavefewerproblemscookingwithaslightlycooleroventhanahotterone.

Nevercookwithradiantheat…insulate:Wehaveallexperiencedthisbefore:whenyousitinfrontofaradiantheateryousoonstarttofry,buttakeonestepawayandyoufreeze—suchisthewonderofradiantheat!Likewise,iftheheatingelementinsideyourovenisvisible,youwillneedtoinsulateittodispersetheheat.Todothis,placeabakingtraybetweentheelementandyourgoodsduringbaking.Thiswillhelpdissipatetheradiantheat,makingitmoreregularand‘softer’.

Hotspots:Mostovens,fromthedomestickitchentothelargestfactoryoven,willhavehotspots.Theseareareaswheretheheatismoreprominentthanothers.Inordertoworkoutwherethatisandfixit,heatyouroventoitsmaximumtemperature,sprinkleanevenlayerofflouroveryourbakingtray,thenplacethetrayinthemiddleoftheoven.Closethedoorandwaitfortheflourtobrown—watchingverycarefullytomakesurethatitdoesn’tcatchalight.Ifyounoticethatsomeareasaredarkerthanothers,simplycuta20cm(8in)squareoffoil,folditintoquarters,thenplaceitonyourinsulatingtray(theonebetweentheheatingelementandyourbakedgoods)onthespotwheretheflourbrownedthemost.

Youwillfindthatunlessyoubakeinarefractoryoven,thebottomofyourpastriesarealmostalwaysgoingtobecookedlessthantheyareonthetop,soIrecommendusingthethinnestbakingtrayyoucanfind.

Thermometers

Irecommendedadigitalprobethermometerscaledto200°C(400°F),asitallowsyoutogetaninstant,easyandaccuratereading.Thisisespeciallyusefulwhendoingsugarworkandtemperingchocolate,andalsoforcheckingtheinternaltemperatureofcakes,creams,meatandfish.Traditionalleadthermometersarefine,althoughtheyareinfinitelymorefragileandcanbedifficulttoread.

Kitchenscales

‘Whatisheavier,akiloofleadorakilooffeathers?’

Themostcriticalpieceofequipmentforabakerorpastrychefisanaccuratedigitalscale.Unlikeotherareasofcooking,whereyoucanaddasplashofthisandahandfulofthatandendupwithsomethingdelicious,thesuccessofbakingreliesentirelyonfollowingtherecipecarefullyandpreciselymeasuringeachingredient.

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Fordecades,professionalshaveavoidedthevolumetricsystem(cups)tomeasureingredients,notonlyforthesakeofaccuracy,butmainlytosimplifyproduction.Eachingredienthasitsownspecificdensity.Forinstance,acupofwaterdoesn’tweighthesameasacupofoil,andsimilarlyflourislighterthansugar,butakilogramofanythingwillalwaysweighakilogram,irrespectiveofhowmuchvolumethereis.Assuch,whatmattersistheweightofingredientsinyourrecipe,neverthevolume.

Irecommendagooddigitalscalethatweighstothesinglegramasopposedtothosethatweighin5g(1/8oz)increments.Thiswillmakeallthedifferencewhenitcomestomeasuringoutsmallquantitiesofingredientssuchasyeast,bakingpowderandsalt.Youdon’thavetospendasmallfortuneeither,asmostdigitalscalesarequiteaffordable.

Agoldenruletofollow:

Irecommendthatyouhaveallyouringredientsreadyandweighedbeforeyoustartbaking.Thisisimportantfortworeasons.Firstly,someingredientsreactwithanother;forinstance,ifyoupoursugaroneggyolkswithoutstirringimmediately,thesugarwillabsorbwaterfromtheyolkandcreateaproteinlump(thisiscalled‘burningtheeggs’).Secondly,ifyouringredientsarenotweighedbeforeyoubegin,youmightfindyourselfburningatoffeewhileweighingoutyourcream,oroverwhippingyoureggwhiteswhilemeasuringyoursugarwhenmakingmeringue.

Electricmixers

Whileitwillbeoneofthemostexpensivepiecesofequipmentinyourkitchen,agoodstandmixerwithastrongmotorwilllastyoualifetimeandwillsaveyoualotoftimeandeffort.Whenchoosingamixer,sticktothebasics:allyouneedarethethreeattachments(whisk,paddleandhook)andvariablespeedbuttons.Ifyoudon’thaveadoughhookoryouthinkthemotorisn’tquiteuptothechallengeofworkingabreaddough,kneadthedoughbyhand,theold-fashionedway.

Foodprocessors

Foodprocessorsarenotexactlyessentialforbaking,butwillcertainlymakeyourlifealoteasier.They’regreatforemulsifyingcreamsandcustards,crushingnuts,slicingfruitsandvegetablesorevenmixingsmallamountsofdough,suchasshortbread.Mypersonalrecommendationistolookforaprocessorwithdoubleblades.They’realotmoreefficient,provideamoreconsistentfinishandgeneratealotlessfrictionandthereforeheat,whichisespeciallyimportantwhencrushingnuts,astoomuchheatwillturnthemintoapaste.

Immersionorstickblenders

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Animmersionorstickblenderisanimportanttoolinabakers’arsenal.Itdoesagreatjobofemulsifyingthefatandliquidincreamsandsauces,fromchocolateganachetobeurreblancormayonnaise.Unlikeawhisk,whichintroducesairintothemixture,animmersionblenderbindsthefatandtheliquidtogether(makinganemulsion),thusimprovingthetextureandreducingthefattysensationonthepalate.

Knivesandspatulas

Chefsarenotoriouslyprotectiveoftheirknivesandspatulas,notjustbecausethey’resocostlybutalsobecausethey’realmostlikeanextensionofourhands.Themorewebecomeusedtotheirweightorshape,themorepreciseandfastwebecomewhenusingthem,andthelesslikelywearetocutourselves.Whilethisappliestoalesserextenttoamateurbakers,Iwouldalwaysadviseyoutoinvestinqualitytools(orputitonyourChristmaswishlist),astheywilllastlongerandperformbetterovermanyyearsthanpoorerqualitytools.Mysuggestionforbuyingknives,spatulasand,indeed,anykitchentoolistogotoagoodkitchenwareshop,touchandholdtheminyourhandsuntilyoufindonethatfeelscomfortable.

Ideally,youshouldhavethreetypesofknivesandonespatula:

Chef’sknife Thisknife isused for everything, fromcuttingcroissants to cutting zest intojulienne,andcomesinawiderangeofsizes.Whileentirelysubjective,Ithinkexcessively longorheavyknivesaredifficulttohandleandnotveryuseful inbaking. I recommend a heavy-handled knife with a 25 cm (10 in) blade.Paradoxically,thebiggertheknife,thelesslikelyyouaretoinjureyourself.

Paringknife Thisknife isused formoreprecise tasks, suchas coringorpeeling fruit andvegetables.Itisamulti-purposeknife,verysimilartoachef’sknifebutwithasmallerbladeofaround10cm(4in).

Serratedknife

Alsoknownasabreadknife,thebladeistypically15–20cm(6–8in)inlength,verysharpanddesignedtocutthroughsoftbreadsandbrioches.

Steelspatula These are used to fill or decorate cakes. Choosing the length of spatula, itsweightandflexibilityisentirelyamatterofpersonalpreference.

P ipingbagsandnozzles

Apipingbagisoneofmyfavouritetoolsinthekitchen.Iuseitforsimpletaskssuchaspipingandfillingchouxpuffs,toverytrickydecoratingandwritingtechniques.Fortherecipesinthisbook,youwillonlyrequireonesmall(4mm/1/8in)plainnozzleandonelarge(1cm/½in)nozzleandasmallpipingbag.Theyarecheapandreadilyavailableonlineorfromacakedecoratingstore.

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Tinsandrings

Youdon’tneedoneofeveryshapeandsizeontheplanet.Ifyoudon’thaveexactlytherighttin,usetheclosestsizeyouhave—generally1cm(½in)largerorsmallerwon’tmakemuchdifference.

Afewbasictinsthatyouwillneedarea20cm(8in)and25cm(10in)roundcaketins,a25cm(10in)tarttinwithremovablebase(ortartring)anda25cm(10in)loaf(bar)tin.Aslongasthevolumeofthetinisroughlythesameaswhattherecipecallsfor,youcanalsousesquareorrectangularcaketinsinsteadofroundtins.Tartrings(alsocalledringmoulds)areoftenusedbypâtissiersforaestheticreasonsbutareinterchangeablewithflutedtarttinswithremovablebases.Ifyouareusingatartring,placetheringonapieceofbakingpaper,linewiththepastry,thenslideathinbakingtrayunderneath.

Siliconemats

Whilecompletelyinterchangeablewithbakingpaper,siliconematsareaworthwhile,ifnotnecessary,investmentbecausethey’rereusableandvirtuallyindestructible.Whenbuyingamat,makesureitmatchesthesizeofyourbakingtrays,astheycan’tbetrimmedtofit.

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Biscuitssecs

‘Poetryisthesynthesisofhyacinthsandbiscuits.’

CARLSANDBURG

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Tuilesauxamandes(Almondtuiles)withTuilesdentelleàl’orangeetàlacannelle(Orangeandcinnamonlacetuiles)

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Biscuitssecs

(Biscuits)

Idon’tknowwhywelovebiscuitsasmuchaswedo.Maybeit’sthefactthatmostcultureshavebeenbakingbiscuitsinoneformoranotherforhundredsofyears,ingrainingthemintoourcollectiveconsciousness.Ormaybeit’stheirsize—thingsjustlookbetterandcuterwhentheyaresmall.Inanycase,everyonehasmostlikelygazedlonginglyatthehugeassortmentofcolourfulanddelicious-lookingbiscuitsthatadorntheshelvesoftheirlocalbakeryand,almostcertainly,eachofusisguiltyofshakingthebiscuittinathome,hopingtofindthelastremainingbiscuit,onlytoendupscavengingafewcrumbs.

Idecidedtofeaturebiscuitsasthefirstchapterinthisbookbecausetheyareamazinglysimpletomakeandarethereforeidealtohoneyourbakingskills,ortointroduceyourkidstothejoysofbaking.Thegreatthingaboutbakingbiscuitsisthatonceyouunderstandthebasicsofmakingasimpledough,youcansubstituteingredientsbasedonyourownpreferences,orhavefunexperimentingwithflavoursbyaddingahintofspiceorsomenutsordriedfruitsifyoulike.Whoknows,youmayjuststumbleuponthenextclassicbiscuitrecipe!

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Croquantsauxamandes

(Almondbiscotti)IwantedtoincludethistypicallyProvençalbiscuitinthisbookbecause,forme,itliesatthecore

ofwhatIlovemostaboutbaking—itsabilitytounlockmemorieslongthoughtforgotten.Itamazesmehowthesimpleactofbitingintoasmall,seeminglyinconsequentialbiscuitcantransportme,butforabriefmoment,straightbacktomychildhood,toawarmandhappyplace.

ManyyearsagowhenIwasyoungandlivinginMarseille,IhadafriendThierrywhosemotherwasanexcellentbaker,particularlyfamedforhercroquantsauxamandes.Everytimewevisited,weraidedthekitchencupboardinadesperatesearchforthebiscuittin.Hercroquantswerefragrantbutnotoverbearing,crunchy(which,bytheway,isthedirecttranslationofcroquant)yetsoft,andthereneverseemedtobeenoughofthem.FormanyyearsIbeggedThierrytoaskherfortherecipe,butshewouldneverpartwithit.Then,onmylastdayinFrance,aswewereallwaitingintheairportloungebeforemytriptoAustralia,Thierryslippedsomethingintomypocket.Itwasasealedenvelope,stamped‘StateSecret’.Ismiledgratefullyathimandgotontheplane.

Makesabout50

250g(9oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar

250g(9oz)almondmeal

3eggs,lightlybeaten,plus1extra,toglaze

2teaspoonsnaturalvanillaextract

2teaspoonsorangeblossomwater

200g(7oz)rawalmonds,roasted

100g(3½oz)pistachios

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.

LCombinetheflour,sugarandalmondmealinabowl,thentransfertoaworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.Pourtheeggs,vanillaandorangeblossomwaterintothewelland,usingyourfingertips,starttobringthedryingredientsintotheeggsandbeginmixing.Continuetoincorporatemoreandmoreoftheflourmixture,thenaddthealmondsandpistachiosandmixuntilalltheingredientshaveformedasuppledough.

LDividethedoughintofivepieces,thenrolleachpieceintoacylinderabout5–6cm(2–2½in)

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indiameterandplaceononeofthelinedtrays.Lightlybeattheextraegginasmallbowl,thenbrushtheeggoverthetopofthedoughcylinders.

LBakethecylindersfor20minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandcoolslightly.Whencoolenoughtohandle,usealargechef’sknifetocutthecylindersinto2–3cm(¾–1¼in)thickslices.Placethebiscuitsonthelinedtraysinasinglelayerandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Transfertoawireracktocool.

LCroquantsaredeliciouseatenwithacupofteaorcoffee,orasasmalltreatforkidswithaglassofmilk.Storetheminanairtightcontainerforupto1month.Aswithallotherbiscuits,iftheystarttosoftenalittle,simplydrythemina100°C(210°F)ovenfor10minutes.

Ithasbeenquiteajourneyforthesehumblebiscuits.Originallycalledcasse-dentsor‘teeth-breakers’,thesewerebakedtwicesotheywouldlastforalongtime,tocaterforthedemandsofsailorsonlongjourneysatsea.Nowadays,theyhavebeenrefinedintoamorepalatablebiscuit,andarecommonlyfoundinmostMediterraneancitiesunderthenamecroquantorbiscotti.

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Tuiles

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Tuiles

Tuilesauxamandes

(Almondtuiles)Thiscircular,concavebiscuitismeanttoresembletheshapeofarooftile(which,incidentally,is

theliteraltranslationoftheword‘tuile’),usuallyfoundinthesouthernregionofFrance.Therearehundreds(Iassume)ofvariationsoftheoriginalalmondtuile,rangingfrombrandysnapstofruit-basedlacetuiles,allcharacterisedbytheirdistinctivecurveandcrunchytexture.

Makes20–25

note:Allingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.Startthisrecipeadayahead.

75g(2¾oz)unsaltedbutter

125g(4½oz)eggwhites(about4)

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

¼teaspoonnaturalvanillaextract

50g(1¾oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

200g(7oz)flakedalmonds

LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanoververylowheat.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor5minutes.

LPuttheeggwhites,sugarandvanillainalargebowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthemixtureuntiltheeggwhitesbegintofoam.Combinetheflourandalmondsinasmallbowl,thenuseaspatulatofoldthemintotheeggwhites.Stirinthebutteruntilwellcombined.Donotletthebuttercooldowntoomuch,oritwillhardenuponcontactwiththecoolereggwhitemixture.Spoonthemixtureintoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LStirthechilledmixtureuntilsmooth,thendrop2/3tablespoonsofmixtureontooneofthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Lightlydipaforkinwaterandusethebackoftheforktospreadthemixtureintothin6cm(2½in)rounds.Bakethetuilesfor5–7minutes,oruntiltheybegintobrownaroundtheedges.Don’twaitforthemtobrowncompletely,orthey

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willbecometoobrittletoshape.Removethetrayfromtheoven.

LWorkingquickly,useaspatulatocarefullyliftthetuilesoffthetray,thenlaythemoverarollingpinorsmallbottle.Youshouldbeabletoshapefourorfiveatatimeontherollingpin.Leaveuntilcompletelycool.Prepareandbakethenextbatchoftuiles,alternatingthetrayssothetrayyouareusinghashadtimetocooldown.Almondtuilesarebesteatenfreshlybaked,butcanbekeptforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.

tip

You don’t need to use all themixture at once.Use half and bake some biscuits for afternoon tea, then store the rest of themixture in an airtightcontainerinthefridgeforupto2weeks.

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Tuilesdentelleàl ’orangeetàlacannelle

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Tuilesdentelleàl ’orangeetàlacannelle

(Orangeandcinnamonlacetuiles)

Makesabout20

note:Alldryingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.

40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter

2½tablespoonsstrainedorangejuice

140g(5oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted

2tablespoonsplain(all-purpose)flour

smallpinchofgroundcinnamon

finelygratedzestof½orange

LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanoververylowheat.Stiroccasionallyuntilmelted,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor5minutes.Whencool,addtheorangejuiceandstirtocombine.

LPuttheicingsugar,flourandcinnamoninalargebowlandwhisktogetherwell.Pourthebutterandorangemixtureintotheflourmixture,addtheorangezest,thenuseawoodenspoontocombinewell.Spoonthemixtureintoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LStirthechilledmixtureuntilsmooth,thendrop½tablespoonsofmixtureontooneofthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Bakethetuilesfor5minutes,oruntillightgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandleaveonthetraytocoolfor2–3minutes,oruntilyoucanliftthemoffthetraywithaspatula.Donotattempttohandlethemtooearly,becausethesoftcaramelmaysticktoyourskinandcauseverydeepburns.

LWorkingquickly,useaspatulatocarefullyliftthetuilesoffthetray,thenlaythemoverarollingpinorsmallbottle.Youshouldbeabletoshapefourorfiveatatimeontherollingpin.Leaveuntilcompletelycool.Prepareandbakethenextbatchoftuiles,alternatingthetrayssothetrayyouareusinghashadtimetocooldown.Lacetuilesarebesteatenfreshlybaked,butcanbekeptforafewdaysinanairtightcontainer.

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Servethesedelicateandelegantlacetuilesasanaccompanimenttoasimplefruitsaladoricecreamtoaddtexture,orasasophisticatednibbleforyournextChampagnecocktail.Theyareversatiletoo;createyourownversionbysimplyswappingtheorangejuicewithanyotherjuices,suchasgrapefruitjuice,pineappleorguava.

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F lorentines

It’softenthought(andoftendebated)thattheflorentinebiscuitcamefromFrance,andwhiletheyhavebeenastapleinalmosteveryFrenchbakerysincetheRenaissance,theirnameprovidesanobviousclueastowheretheyactuallyoriginated.Ilovethesebiscuitsfortheirbrightcontrastingcoloursandtheperfectbalancebetweenthebitternessofthedarkchocolateandthesweetnessofthecaramelisedalmondsandcandiedfruits.EnjoythemwithacupofstrongcoffeeoranEarlGreytea.

Makesabout20

180g(6¼oz)flakedalmonds

30g(1oz)almondmeal

30g(1oz)candiedorangepeel

30g(1oz)glacécherries,coarselychopped

30g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

50g(1¾oz)honey

40g(1½oz)whippingcream(35%fat)

500g(1lb2oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),chopped

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LPutthealmonds,almondmeal,orangepeel,glacécherriesandflourinabowlandcombinewell.Putthebutter,sugar,honeyandcreaminaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatandstircontinuouslyuntilitcomestotheboil.Reducetheheattomedium,thencontinuestirringuntilthemixturereaches115°C(240°F)onasugarthermometer.Removethepanfromtheheat,addthedryingredientsandcombinewell.

LUsingtwotablespoons(onetopickupthemixtureandtheothertopushitoff),droptablespoonsofhotmixtureontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Youwillhavetoworkfast,asthemixturewillhardenquicklyasitcoolsdown.Wheneachtrayisfull,placeasheetofbakingpaperoverthetopandusethepalmofyourhandtogentlyflattentheflorentinestoa1cm(½in)thickness.Theyneedtobethesamethicknesssotheycookevenly.

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LRemovethetoppieceofbakingpaper,thenplacethetraysintheovenandbakefor10–15minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Watchthemlikeahawk—burntflorentinesaren’tverypleasant!Removefromtheovenand,ifdesired,usealightlygreasedroundbiscuitcuttertoevenouttheshape.Leaveonthetraysuntilcool.

LTocoattheflorentines,slowlymeltthechocolateinabain-marie(seetips),thenremovethebowlfromtheheatandsetasideuntilthechocolateiscool.Workingwithonebiscuitatatime,diptheflatsideoftheflorentineinthechocolate.Ifyoufeelcreative,useacomboraforktocreatethedistinctivewavypatternonthechocolate.Placetheflorentines,chocolatesideup,onatraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigerateforabout10minutes,oruntilset.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

tips

Abain-marieisawaterbathusedtogentlycookingredientssuchaseggsorchocolate.Toprepareabain-marie,placeaheatproofbowloverasaucepanfilledwithwater,makingsurethebottomofthebowldoesnottouchthewater.Bringthewatertoasimmerovermediumheat.Thisensuresthattheingredientsinthebowlwillheatupverygraduallyandthatthecookingtemperatureneverexceeds80°C(175°F).

It’simportanttonotethatdarkchocolatetendstomelteasierthanmilkchocolate,whichcontainslesscocoabutterandthereforetendstoburnalotquicker.Ifyouaremeltingmilkchocolate,takeyourtime,leavetheheatonlowandstiroftenwithaspatulauntilmelted.

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MacaronsdeNancy

(TraditionalNancymacarons)Thefirstthingyouwillnoticeaboutthesemacaronsisthattheyseeminglybearlittle

resemblancetothemacaronsyouareprobablymorefamiliarwith—themacaronGerbert,averypopularbiscuitthatcomesinhundredsofdifferentvariations.Inthepâtisserie,webakeover20,000oftheseeveryweek,buttheyaretechnicalandtime-consumingtomake(andprobablyoutsidethescopeofthisbook).

ThemacarondeNancyisaverytraditionalbiscuit;infact,itistheancestorofthefamedmacaronGerbert.MacaronsfirstarrivedinFranceinthesixteenthcenturywithCatherinedeMedici’sItalianpastrychefs,butreallygainednotorietyduringtheFrenchRevolutionwhentwonuns,SisterMargueriteandSisterMarie-Elisabeth,beganmanufacturingthemfromatowncalledNancy.Atthispointtheyweresinglealmondbiscuits,withachewycentreandbrittle,crunchyshell.ItwasnotuntilthenineteenthcenturythatPierreDesfontaines,acousinofafoundingmemberofthePâtisserieLadurée,createdthemacaronGerbertbysofteningupthemixturewithameringueandstickingtwoshellstogetherwithaflavouredfilling.

TherecipeformacaronsdeNancyisincrediblysimpleandremainsoneofthemostpopularbiscuitssoldinbakeriesthroughoutFrance.

Makesabout40

250g(9oz)almondmeal

320g(11¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100g(3½oz)eggwhites(about3–4)

¼teaspoonbitteralmondessence,ortotaste

100g(3½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwobakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.

LCombinethealmondmealandcastersugarinabowl.Addtheeggwhitesandalmondessenceinoneadditionandstirwithawoodenspoonfor2–3minutes,oruntilaverystiffpasteforms.Themixturewillbegintosoftenasthewaterintheeggwhitesstartstodissolvethesugar.

LSpoonthemixtureintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzleandpipe5cm(2in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthem3–4cm(1¼–1½in)apart.Usingapastrybrush

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lightlydippedincoldwater,brushoverthetopofeachmacaron,thensprinkleagenerousamountoficingsugaroverthetop.Usethebrushtowetthetopsagainuntilalltheicingsugarhasdissolved.

LBakefor15minutes,oruntiljustbeginningtocolour.Donotletthemacaronscaramelisetoomuch,astheyneedtobefairlysoft.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolonthetrays,thencarefullyremovefromthebakingpaper.Ifyourmacaronssticktothepaper,simplywettheundersideofthebakingpaperwithapastrybrushoraverywetcloth.Afterafewminutes,youwillbeabletoremoveyourpreciouslittlebiscuitsfromthepaper.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto7days.

tip

WhenbakingNancymacarons,donotstresstoomuchaboutthebakingtime.Removethemacaronsaftertherecommendedcookingtime, leavetocoolalittle,thentasteonetoseeifitiscookedtoyourliking—itshouldbesoftandchewyontheinsidewithacrispyshell.Ifyoufindyourmacaronsaretoosoft,simplyreturnthemtoalowoventodryoutforalittlelonger.

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Congolaisàl ’orgeat

(Coconutmacaroonswithorgeatsyrup)Theselittlebiscuitsfollowstraightafterthemacaronrecipe,becauseIwantedtoclarifythe

pointthatmacaronsandmacaroonsareactuallytwodistinctlydifferentthings,howeversimilartheirnamesmightbewhentranslatedinEnglish.BoththetraditionalNancymacaronandthemorefamousGerbertmacaronaremadewithalmondmeal,whilemacaroonsaremadewithcoconut.

ThecoconutmacaroonisnotactuallyaFrenchcreation,butatypicallyAnglo-Saxonone,saidtohaveoriginatedfromScotlandinthe1930s.TheyquicklyspreadtoGermanyandtheNetherlands,thentoNorthAmericaandAustraliabeforefindingtheirwell-deservedspotontheshelvesofalmosteverybakeryinFrance.Theyareamazinglysimpletobake,packedfulloffibreand,moreimportantly,theyarejustdelectable.

Makesabout20

150g(5½oz)shreddedcoconut1/8teaspoonfinesalt

60g(2¼oz)eggwhites(about2)

2teaspoonshoney

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoonnaturalvanillaextract

2tablespoonsorgeatsyrup

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LPutthecoconutandsaltinalargeheatproofbowl.Puttheeggwhites,honey,sugar,vanillaandorgeatsyrupinasaucepanandwhiskcontinuouslyoverlowheatjustuntilthemixturefeelstepidtothetouch(about45°C/115°F).Pourthesugarmixtureontothecoconutandmixwithaspatulauntilwellcombined.

LTakesmallhandfulsofthemixtureandrollinto3–4cm(1¼–1½in)balls,thenplaceonthelinedtray.Unliketuilesorflorentines,macaroonswillnotspreadduringbakingsoyoucanplacethemclosetogether,butnottouching.Bakefor10minutes,oruntilthecoconutshredsontopofthemacaroonsbegintobrown.

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LRemovefromtheovenandtransfertoawireracktocool.Ifyourmacaroonssticktothebakingpaper,simplywettheundersideofthepaperwithapastrybrushoraverywetcloth.Afterafewminutes,youwillbeabletoremovethemacaroonsfromthepaper.Macaroonsarebesteatenfresh,butwillkeepinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto4days.

Orgeatsyrupisavailableinlargesupermarketsorspecialistdelicatessensandisoftensoldasalmondsyrup.Itismadebyblendingalmonds,bitteralmonds,sugarandasmallamountoforangeblossomwater.Thesyrupcanbemixedwithwaterasarefreshingdrink,mixedwithalcoholicbeveragestomakecocktailssuchasMauresqueandMaiTai,orwithfruitjuicessuchasorangeandbananaormangoandpeach.ForgettheHangingGardensofBabylon,myseventhwonderoftheworldisasmallpatchofgrassinProvenceinsummer,whereIcanlayinalongchairwearingastrawhat,listeningtocicadasandsippingonacoldorange,bananaandorgeatcocktail.

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Sablésàlaconfiture

(Jamshortbreads)Let’sfaceit;everyonelovesasoft,crumblyandbutteryshortbread.Whatmakesthesesospecial

isthattheycanbecuttoanyshapeandsize,filledwithjamofanyflavourand,moreimportantly,makingabatchofshortbreadonaSundayafternoonisagreatactivitythewholefamilycanenjoytogether.Traditionally,sablésàlaconfiturearemadewithtworoundbiscuitssandwichedtogetherwithstrawberryjam,withthreeholesrevealingtheshinyredspheresfrombehindaveiloficingsugar.Frankly,Iamatalosstoexplainthetechnicalreasonastowhytheytastesogood,buttheyjustdo.

Makesabout12sandwichedshortbreads

600g(1lb5oz)PâteSablée

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting

250g(9oz)strawberryjam

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linethreebakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

LDividethepastryinhalf,thencoveronehalfinplasticwrapandplaceinthefridge.Don’tattempttorolloutallthedoughatonce,asit’stoodifficulttoachieveaneventhicknesswhenrollingoutalargeamount.Rolloutthedoughonapieceofbakingpaperuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,makingsureyoudustthepaperandrollingpinwithalittlebitoffloursothedoughdoesn’tstick.Usingan8cm(3¼in)roundcutter,cutoutasmanydiscsasyoucan(youwillneedanevennumberofdiscs).Ifthedoughisstickingtothepaper,placeinthefridgefor15minutestofirmupalittle.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.

LPlacethediscsonthelinedtrays.Usinga2cm(¾in)roundcutter,stampoutthreesmallholesfromhalfthediscs(leavetheotherhalfuncut,asthesewillformthebase).Bakefor15minutes,oruntillightgolden.Removefromtheoven,leaveonthetraystocoolalittle,thencarefullyturntheshortbreadbasesupsidedown.Whencompletelycool,dustagenerousamountoficingsugaroverthetopoftheshortbreaddiscswithholes.

LPutthejamand1tablespoonwaterinasmallsaucepanandstirovermediumheatuntilsoftandwellcombined.Removefromtheheat.Spreadabout1tablespoonhotjamontotheupside-downshortbreadbases,thengentlycoverwiththesugaredtops.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature.

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tip

Unlikepâtesucrée,whichhasthetendencytotoughenwithexcessivemixing,pâtesabléecanberolledoverandoveragainandstillremainveryshortandtasty.Thismakesitanidealpastryforkidstoplaywith,astheycanmakefunbiscuitshapesthenrerollthedoughscrapsandcontinuecutting.Feelfreetokeepanydoughoffcutsinthefridgeorfreezer,coveredinplasticwrap,toreuseatalaterstage.

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Biscuitsauchocolat,auxamandesetauxpistaches

(Chocolate,almondandpistachiobiscuits)Writingabookonbakingandnotincludingarecipeforchocolatebiscuitswouldbealmost

sacrilegious,regardlessofwhethertheyaretypicallyFrenchornot.Personally,Ilikemychocolatebiscuitscrunchyontheoutsidewithasoft,chewycentreand,ofcourse,withpistachios.Ihavedevelopedareputationforoverdoingthepistachiosabit,butIreallycan’timagineaworldwithoutthisamazingnut.Whetherjustfortheircolour—sprinkledonaplatetocreateabeautifulcontrastwithredcherriesorchocolate—orfortheirtextureorsubtlesweetness,Ihaveusedpistachiosforoverthirtyyears,acrosseverypossiblerangeofproducts,frombreadstobriochesandcakes.Inthisrecipe,thepistachiosaddanadditionallayeroftextureandastunningcontrastofcolourbut,ofcourse,ifyoudon’tlovethemlikeIdo,replacethemwithanyothertypeofnut,suchasmacadamias,walnutsorpeanuts.

Makesabout45

note:Allingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.

125g(4½oz)blanchedalmonds

120g(4¼oz)pistachios

220g(7¾oz)darkchocolate(60–70%cocoasolids),chopped

150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped

225g(8oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

½teaspoonfinesalt

5g(1/8oz)bakingpowder

220g(7¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar

75g(2¾oz)eggs(lightlybeat2eggstogether,thenmeasure)

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Putthealmondsonabakingtrayandroastforabout10minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandcool.Putthealmondsandpistachiosinafoodprocessorandprocessuntilcoarselychopped,thensetaside.

LMeltthechocolateandbutterinabain-marie(seetips).Whenmelted,removethebowlfromtheheatandcooltoroomtemperature.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.

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LSifttheflour,saltandbakingpowderintoabowlandsetaside.Putthesugarandeggsinalargebowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthesugarandeggsuntilthickandpale,thenaddthecooledchocolatemixtureandfoldinwellwithawoodenspoon.Makesureyoureggsareatroomtemperature,ascoldeggsmaycauseyourchocolatetocrystalliseandformhardlumps.Foldinthesiftedflourmixture,thenaddthecrushednutsandcombinewell.

LShapeleveltablespoonsofthemixtureintoballsandplaceontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart(seetips),thenflattentheballswiththepalmofyourhandtoabout5cm(2in)indiameter.Bakeforabout10minutes,oruntilyoucanseewell-definedcracksallthewaytothecentreofthebiscuit.Coolonawirerack,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto7days.

tips

It’simportantthatthedoughballsareallaboutthesamesize,sotheycookevenly.Iliketoweigheachdoughballtomakesuretheyareallthesamesize.

Thisdoughfreezeswell.Rollanyleft-overdoughintoalongcylinderabout5cm(2in)indiameter,coverinplasticwrapandfreeze.Touse,thawthecylindertoroomtemperatureandthencutinto3cm(1¼in)thickslicesandbakeasyouwouldfreshdough.

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Bugnes

(Frenchvanillacrostoli)IhaveveryclearandhappymemoriesofwhenIwasasmallboy,sittingonthesideofthe

kitchentable,watchingmymotherandgrandmothermakingbugnes.Ilovedthewholeprocess,fromtheinitialdiscussionoverwhowasgoingtodowhat,totheactualmomentwhentheystartedcutting,rollingandthenbakingthedough.Bylateafternoon,whenalltheworkwasdone,thewholefamilywouldregroupandchatabouttheirdayoversomefreshlybakedbugnesandaglassortwoofrosé.MakingthosebiscuitsembodiedeverythingthatIloveaboutbaking.Itwasthecatalystthatbroughteveryonetogether,naturallyandeffortlessly.

Forthisrecipe,Ialwaysusethetraditionalmethodthatmygrandmothertaughtme.Thelittleextrabitofloveandcaregiventothedoughbymixingtheingredientsbyhandsomehowalwaysmakesthesebiscuitstasteevenbetter.

Makes50–60

5eggs

1tablespoonnaturalvanillaextractorvanillabeanpaste

3tablespoonsrum

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

100g(3½oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugar

2teaspoonsbakingpowder

1teaspoonfinesalt

finelygratedzestof1lemon

250g(9oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,chopped

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting

LUsingafork,lightlybeattheeggs,vanillaandruminasmallbowl.Puttheflour,cornflour,sugar,bakingpowder,saltandlemonzestinamoundonyourworksurfaceandmakeawellinthecentre.Rubthebutterintothedryingredientsbypushingthebutterandflourmixturetogetherwiththepalmofyourhanduntilallthebutterisfullyincorporatedintothedryingredients.Thisprocess,calledsablage,isdesignedtokeepthedoughshortbyinsulatingtheglutenintheflourwiththefat(thispreventsitfromtougheninguponcetheeggsareadded).

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LAddtheeggmixture,alittleatatime,andincorporatetheflouruntilthedoughcomestogether.(Alternatively,youcanfollowthesameprocessusinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.)Flattenthedoughintoadisc,thencoverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout2mm(1/16in)thick.Youcanuseapastamachinetorollitout,ifyouprefer.Usingaparingknife,cutthedoughintorectanglesabout5cm(2in)wideand12cm(4½in)long,thenmakea3cm(1¼in)cutlengthwaysthroughthemiddleandfoldoneendoftherectanglethroughtheincision.Placeonbakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,coverwithaclothandsetasidefor10minutes.

LHeattheoilinadeep-fryerorlarge,heavy-basedsaucepanto190°C(375°F).Workinginbatches,cookthebugnesfor2minutesoneachside,oruntilgolden.Removeanddrainonpapertowel.Whencool,dustwithicingsugar.Storeinanairtightcontainerforupto7days.

technicaltip

Thecharacteristicbubbleson thesebiscuits, verymuch like those foundonSicilian cannoli, are createdby the additionof alcoholdirectly into thedough.Thealcoholistrappedunderathinlayerofdough,butevaporatesalmostinstantlyoncontactwiththehotoil,creatingthelunarlandscapeonyourbiscuit.Thebakingpowdertakeslongertoreleasecarbondioxide,whichconsequentlybecomestrappedbythedoughasitcooks,lighteningupthewholebiscuit.

BugnesaretypicallyfromLyonbuteveryregionhastheirownadaptationandnames.InProvencetheyarecalledmerveillesororeillettes—theyaresimilartobugnesbutmadewithoutthebakingpowderandaretypicallyflavouredwithorangeblossom.InNicetheyarecalledgansesNiçoises,andaremadewitholiveoilinsteadofbutter.

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Navettesàl ’eaudefleurd ’oranger

(Orangeblossomnavettes)Let’sclosethischapterwithaspecialtyfromMarseille.NavettesareatypicalProvençalbiscuit

usuallyservedinMarseilleatLaChandeleur(Candlemas)—areligiouscelebrationheldinFebruary—insteadofthetraditionalcrêpesservedeverywhereelseinFrance.Theyaresmallandoblonginshape,withpointedendsandadeepcutdowntheirlength,andaremeanttoresembleasmallregionalfishingboatcalledapointu,meaning‘pointed’.Navettesaredeliciouslycrunchyandinfusedwithsubtlehintsofoliveoilandorangeblossom,andrank,alongwiththecroquant,asoneofmyfavouritebiscuits.

Makes32

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoonfinesalt

2eggs,lightlybeaten

120ml(4floz)oliveoil

finelygratedzestof1orange

1tablespoonorangeblossomwater

2eggs,extra

LCombinetheflour,sugarandsaltinabowlandmakeawellinthecentre.Addthelightlybeateneggs,oliveoil,orangezestandorangeblossomwater.Useyourhandstomixeverythingtogetherfor5minutes,oruntilsmooth.Coverwithaclothandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor1hour.Anyshortdoughs,suchasshortbreadsmadewithflourandaliquid(eggs),mustbelefttorestforatleastanhourtoallowtheglutenstrands(wheatprotein)torelaxandshorten.Failingtodothiswillinevitablyleadtoatoughandunpleasanttexture.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperorasiliconemat.Dividethedoughintofourportions,thenrolleachportionintoacylinderabout4cm(1½in)indiameter.Usingasmallsharpknife,cuteachcylinderintoeightpieces.Shapeeachpieceintoa10cm(4in)longroll,thenpinchtheendsslightlytogivethemataperedshape.Placeonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.

LUsingasharpparingknife,makeadeepincisionlengthwaysdownthemiddleofeachroll.Puttheextraeggsinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined.Lightlybrushthe

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topsoftherollswiththeeggwash,thenplaceinthefridgetorestfor1hour.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Cookingonetrayatatime,bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15–20minutes,oruntilthebasesareslightlybrownandthetopsaredarkblonde.Ifyourbiscuitsarebrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Coolonthetrays,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto2weeks.

AlotoftraditionalrecipesfromtheMediterraneanbasinuseoliveoilinsteadofbutter,becauseoiltendstobemoreresilientinhotclimatesthandairyproducts.Butterremainedthepreserveofregionswithcoolerclimatesuntiltheinventionofrefrigeration,afactthathashadahugeinfluenceonregionalspecialtiestheworldover.

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Gâteauxetdesserts

‘Butwhenfromalong-distantpastnothingsubsists,afterthepeoplearedead,afterthethingsarebrokenandscattered,tasteandsmellalone…remain’

MARCELPROUST,REMEMBRANCEOFTHINGSPAST

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Gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat(Bakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesauce)

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Gâteauxetdesserts

(Cakesanddesserts)

Bakingconjuresupdifferentthingsfordifferentpeople.Forsome,itisallaboutbreads—artisanbakerswho,likemagicians,transformahandfulofingredientsintoaseeminglyendlessarrayofwondrousgoldenbrownrollsandloaves—andforothersit’smoretodowithdeliciouscakes,finepâtisserieandfancydesserts.Forme,bakingismoreabouttheemotionsandconnectionsIhavewhenI’mcooking—thesimple,everydaypastries,breadsandcakesthatmymotherorgrandmothercooked,justastheirownmothersandgrandmothershaddone.WhenI’minmyownkitchen,myhandsandfacedustywithflour,Iamsooftenreconnectedwithscenesfrommychildhood,longagonow,ofhappytimesspentsittingatawoodentableinakitchenfilledwiththewonderfularomaofcakesbakingintheoven,whilemymotherchattedandbustledabout,andmydadandsisterlickedtheleft-overbatterfromthebowlsandspoons.

Allthecakesanddessertsincludedinthischapterhaveleftanimpressiononme,whetherit’sbecausetheyrekindledalong-lostmomentintime,orforthesimplefactthattheyarejustdelectable.Theonethingtheydohaveincommon,however,isthatthesearedeliciousandalmostfailproofrecipesthatyoucanachieveathomeusingsimple,readilyavailableingredients.

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Gâteaumarocain

(FlourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcake)UnlikethetraditionalMoroccanmeskouta(orangeandalmondcake),madewithflourandoil

andservedsoakedinorangejuiceandcinnamonsyrup,thisparticularcakedoesnotcontainanyflour,oilsorbutter,soifyouareglutenintolerantorcountingyourkilojoules,thenthisisforyou!

Iliketoservethiscakewithbloodorangesegments,somecandiedlemonslicesandasprinkleofchoppedalmonds.Theseflavoursworksobeautifullytogetherandit’savisualtreattoo,withthecolourspoppingofftheplate.

Serves12–14

note:Thisrecipemakestwocakes,sofeelfreetohalvetherecipeifyouprefer.

2oranges

600g(1lb5oz)almondmeal

15g(½oz)bakingpowder

430g(15¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

6eggs

Todecorate

2bloodoranges,segmented

50g(1¾oz)rawalmonds,roastedandcoarselychopped

candiedlemonslices

ediblesmallflowers,suchasviolas

LPuttheorangesinasaucepanandcoverwithcoldwater.Coverwithalidandbringtotheboilovermediumheat,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor45minutes,oruntiltheorangesbegintocrackopen.Draintheorangesandsetasideuntilcool,thenbreakthemopenandremovetheseeds.Placetheunpeeledfruitinafoodprocessorandpuréeuntilsmooth.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreaseandflourtwo8x25cm(3¼x10in)loaf(bar)tins.

LPutthealmondmealandbakingpowderinalargebowl,combinewellandsetaside.Using

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anelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whiskthesugarandeggsonhighspeedfor10minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Addtheorangepuréeandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombined,thenpourthemixtureontothealmondmealmixtureandgentlyfoldinuntilcombined.

LPourthemixtureintothepreparedtinsuntilthree-quartersfull.Theoverallvolumeofmixturewillvaryslightlydependingonhowenthusiasticallyyoumixedthebatter,soonlyfillthetinsthree-quartersfullandbakeanyleft-overbatterinagreasedcoffeecuporramekin.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenforabout35minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandleavetocoolbeforerefrigeratinginthetinsforatleast1hour.

LTounmould,placethecakesina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutes,theninvertontoaservingplate.Decoratethecakeswiththebloodorangesegments,choppedalmonds,someslicesofcandiedlemonandedibleflowers.Ifyoulike,makeaglaze(seetips)tobrushoverthecakebeforeaddingtheflowers.Thiscakewillremainsoftfor7daysifwrappedandstoredinthefridge.

tips

Youcanreplacetheorangeswithanyothercitrusfruit—trylime,lemon,pinkgrapefruitormandarin.Ifusinglimeorlemon,increasethesugarto600g(llb5oz)tobalancethetartness.

Toachievetheprofessionalshinyfinishyouseeonthetopofcakesinpâtisseries(andusedformanyofthecakesinthischapter,suchasthisone),boil100g(3½oz)apricotjamwith2tablespoonswaterfor1minuteandbrushtheglazeoverthecakeandfruit.Ifyoufindyourglazeistoothin,boilitforanadditionalminuteorso.

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Gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat

(Bakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesauce)Cheesecakeshavebeenaroundsincethediscoveryofcheese,whichitselfdatesbackover8000

yearsago,andeveryregionandcountryhasadoptedtheirownspecialtechniquesandpreferences.TheFrenchversionofcheesecakediffersfrommanyversionsinthatitismadewithasmallamountofmeringueandistraditionallyservedwithachocolatesauce,curdorfruitcoulis.InthisrecipeIhaveaddedsomeyoghurttobringasubtletouchofsourness,whichhelpstooffsetsomeofthesweetnessofthechocolate,andthemandarinworkswondersatbalancingtherichnessofthecheese.Allinall,thisisasophisticatedanddelicatedessertthatwouldn’tfeeloutofplaceservedanywhere,fromaquicksnackforbreakfast(yes,really!)toapetitfourservedatafancycocktailparty.

Serves8–10

200g(7oz)PâteSablée

460g(1lb)creamcheeseorneufchâtelcheese

200g(7oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

20g(¾oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

220g(7¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoonfinesalt

3eggs

3eggyolks

2tablespoonsstrainedmandarinjuice

60ml(2floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2tablespoonsfull-creammilk

finelygratedzestof2mandarins

2eggwhites

Mandarin-chocolatesauce

300ml(10½floz)strainedmandarinjuice

180g(6¼oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids),chopped

180g(6¼oz)milkchocolate,chopped

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2tablespoonshoney

finelygratedzestof1mandarin

60g(2¼oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

Todecorate

driedcitruszest(optional)(seetips)

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasea25cm(10in)roundcaketinandlinethebaseandsidewithbakingpaper.Lineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.

LRolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughsticking.Usingthecaketinasatemplate,cutoutacircleofdough,thenplaceonthelinedtrayandbakefor15minutes,oruntilthepastrybeginstoturngoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocool.Trimaroundthecoldshortbreadbasewithasharpparingknifeandthencarefullydropitdownontothebaseofthepreparedcaketin.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthecreamcheese,yoghurt,cornflour,110g(33/4oz)ofthesugarandthesaltonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddtheeggs,eggyolksandmandarinjuiceandbeatuntilsmooth.Scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddthecream,milkandmandarinzest.Increasethespeedtomediumandbeatuntilsmoothandcreamy.

LTransferthecreamcheesemixturetoalargebowl.Washthebowloftheelectricmixerthoroughlytoremoveanytracesoffat,thenusingthewhiskattachment,whisktheeggwhitesandremaining110g(33/4oz)ofsugaronthehighestspeeduntilthemeringueisthickandshiny.Reducethespeedtolowandcontinuewhiskingfor1–2minutes,thengentlyfoldthemeringueintothecreamcheesemixturewithaspatula.Takecarewhenhandlingtheeggwhitesatthispoint,oryouwillpushtheairoutofthemandendupwithadensecheesecake—simplyuseacircularfoldingmotionuntilcombined.

LReducetheoventemperatureto100°C(210°F).Pourthefillingintothetin,ontopofthepastrybase,andbakefor60–80minutes,oruntilthecakeisfirmandstopswobbling.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforatleast30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Todothis,coverthetopofthecheesecakewithapieceofbakingpaper,thenplaceaflattrayontop.Flipeverythingover,removethetin,thenflipthecheesecakeontoaservingplate.

LMeanwhile,tomakethemandarin-chocolatesauce,putthemandarinjuiceinasmall

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saucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Putthedarkandmilkchocolates,honeyandmandarinzestinaheatproofbowl,then,whiskingcontinuously,graduallypourthehotjuiceintothebowl(addtheliquidintwoorthreebatches,sothechocolatedoesn’toverheat).Whiskuntilsmooth,thensetasideuntilcooledtoabout40°C(105°F),oruntiltepidtothetouch.Addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoprocessuntilsmoothandwellcombined.

LJustbeforeserving,gentlyheatthesauceinabain-marieuntilwarm(seetips),oralternativelyheatitinamicrowaveforafewseconds,buttakecarethatitdoesn’treachanywherenearboilingpointorthechocolatewillburn.Toserve,drizzlethemandarin-chocolatesauceoverthecheesecakeandsprinklewithsomedriedcitruszest,ifusing.

tips

Cheesecakesshouldbeservedatroomtemperature,asthisallowsthefattomeltquickerinthemouth,dramaticallyimprovingboththetextureandflavour.

Tomakedriedzestfordecoration,useamicroplaneoragratertofinelygratethezestof4mandarins,oranges,lemonsorlimes.Bring500ml(17floz)waterand1teaspoonsalttotheboilinasmallsaucepanoverhighheat,thenaddthegratedzest.Blanchfor3–4minutes,thenstrainthroughafinesieveandpatdrywithpapertowel.Spreadontoatraylinedwithbakingpaperandbakeina80°C(175°F)ovenfor1hour,oruntilcompletelydry.Cool,thenstoreinanairtightcontainerforupto1month.

Whilemostofmycommentsabouttherecipesinthisbookseemtoindicatethatflavourandtastearemymostpressingconcerns(probablybecausetheyare),rememberthatalotofingredientsusedinbakingarehighinsaturatedfat.Idon’tmeantowarnyouoffsaturatedfats;rather,Iwanttopointoutthatbiscuitsandcakesaremeantnottofeedyou,butsimplytolivenyourdayalittle,eatenasasmalltreatafteramealorwithacupofteaorcoffeeforafternoontea.Inmyopinion,itisfarbettertoreduceyourportionsizeinsteadofcompromisingonthetasteofyourcakesbyusingsubstandardingredientssuchasmargarineorlow-fatdairyproducts.

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Madeleines

ItwouldbeunusualtofindabookonFrenchbakingthatdidn’tincludeamadeleineinitslistofrecipes.IrememberasachildhowIdrooledoverthoselittlescallopedbuttercakesasIlookedatthemlonginglythroughthewindowofmylocalpâtisserie,neverhavingquiteenoughmoneytoaffordtobuyoneonmydailytriptoschool.Whilethisprovidedmyfirstlessoninfinancialmanagement,italsomademerealisethatthemoreyoulongforsomethingthemoredeliciousittastes!

Reassuringly,everyoneelseseemstohavethesameaffinityasIdoforthesesmalleighteenth-centurycakes.Mostfamously,MarcelProustinhismuch-heraldednovelRemembranceofThingsPastdescribesbeautifullyhisfirsttasteofamadeleine:‘NosoonerhadthewarmliquidmixedwiththecrumbstouchedmypalatethanashiverranthroughmeandIstopped,intentupontheextraordinarythingthatwashappeningtome.’

Makesabout24

note:ForthisrecipeIstronglyrecommendusingametalmadeleinetrayratherthanasiliconemould,asthe

metaltransferstheheatalotfasterandwillhelpcreatethecharacteristicball-shapedtop.

120g(4¼oz)unsaltedbutter

135g(4¾oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

4g(1/8oz)bakingpowder

3eggs

160g(5¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest

3teaspoonsvegetableoil

LMeltthebutterinasmallsaucepanoverlowheat,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocooluntiltepid.

LSifttogethertheflourandbakingpowder.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggs,sugarandlemonzestuntillightandfluffy.Gentlyfoldinthemeltedbutterandtheoil,thenfoldintheflourmixture.Transfertoabowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast3hours,orovernightforabetterresult.

LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F).Greaseandlightlyflouramadeleinetray.Igenerallyuseonewithholesthatmeasureabout7.5x5cm(3x2in)(seetip).Filltheholesthree-quartersfull

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withbatter.Reducetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F),thenplacethetrayonthebottomshelfoftheovenandbakefor8minutes.Removethecakesfromthetraywhilestillwarm.Whenthetrayiscool,wipeclean,thengreaseandlightlyflourthetrayagainandrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Madeleinesarebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked,preferablystraightoutoftheoven.

tip

Whileatypicalmadeleinealwayscomesinanoval,scallopedshape,thebatterinthisrecipeistheheroandnottheshape.Feelfreetouseindividualcaketinsinothershapes,providingtheyarenodeeperthanabout5cm(2in).Ifyoudouseamadeleinetray,notethattheyareavailableinsmallandlargesizes.Alternatively,realscallopshellscanwork,buttheyneedtobegreasedwithbutterandflouredbeforeuse.

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Financiersauxframboisesetàlanoixdecoco

(Raspberryandcoconutfriands)Althoughbetterknownasalmondfriands,thesepopularlittlecakesareactuallycalled

financiers,so-namedbecauseoftheirgoldingotshape.Interestingly,itisthoughtthatthefinancierwasinspiredbyasmallcakecalledvisitandine,namedaftertheCatholicnunswhoinventedthem.Thenunspaintedwithtempurapaint,whichtheymadefromeggyolks,andtherecipewastheperfectsolutionforwhattodowithalltheleft-overeggwhites.However,thecake’sdistinctiveingotshapeandcurrentnamewastheworkofachefcalledLasne,whohadashopinthefinancialdistrictofParis,andbakedtheminthisshapeasagimmicktoenticethelocaltraders.

WhilethefinanciercontinuestobebakedasasmallrectangleinFrance,itisnowsoldinallshapesandenhancedbyamultitudeofflavours.Thisversionismyfavourite;thetartnessoftheraspberriesprovidestheperfectfoilfortherichnessofthecake,andthecoconutbringsalittlebitoftexture.Iconsiderthemasthemuffin’ssophisticatedcousin—richer,softerandwithamorerefinedtexture.Trythemonceandyouwillneverlookback!

Makes20

note:Alldryingredientsmustbeatroomtemperature.Startthisrecipeadayahead.

200g(7oz)almondmeal

300g(10½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar

150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

250g(9oz)eggwhites(about8–9)

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter

250g(9oz)raspberries,freshorfrozenwhole

100g(3½oz)flakedcoconut

LPutthealmondmeal,icingsugarandflourinabowlandcombinewell.Usingahand-heldwhisk,lightlywhisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamy;donotwhisktheeggwhitestoomuchoryourcakeswillcollapseduringbaking.Foldtheeggwhitesintothealmondmealmixtureuntiljustcombined.Rememberthatanybattercontainingflour(andthereforegluten)willtoughenupwithexcessivemixing,sodon’tbetemptedtopreparethisusinganelectricmixer.

LPutthebutterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatassoonasyounoticethebutterhasstartedtobrown—thisisbeurrenoisette.Mixing

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continuously,pourthehotbutterthroughasieveintoyourbatterandmixuntilcombinedwell(seetips).Transfertoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F).Lightlygreaseandflour20financiermouldsoruse125ml(4floz)friandorbriochetins.Forthebestresults,usesteeloraluminiummoulds,andwhiletheshapeisentirelyuptoyou,thisrecipeisdesignedtobebakedinindividualcakemoulds.

LDividethebatteramongthepreparedmoulds.Placeafewraspberriesandsprinklesomecoconutoverthetopofeachone.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Placeonawireracktocoolalittle,thenremovefromthemoulds.Likemostcakes,thesearebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked.

tips

Toavoidlumpsforminginthebatterwhenyouaddthehotbutter,it’simportantthatyouringredients(almonds,sugar,flourandeggs)areatroomtemperaturebeforeyoustart.

Althoughraspberriesprovideagoodbalanceof tartness in thesecakes, feel free touseotheracidic fruit suchaspassionfruit,blackcurrantsorevenchoppedgrannysmithapples.

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Fondantauchocolatetauxnoix

(Chocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecake)IcameupwiththisrecipeintheearlyyearsofmyapprenticeshipatPâtisseriePasquet,in

Marseille,longbeforeIwasawareoftheexistenceoffudges,andwhileIwasverypleasedwithmyeffort,theheadchefwasratherunderwhelmed.Hesaiditwastoodensetobeagoodcakeandtoosofttobeabiscuitanddescribeditasunsophisticated,butIwasquietlyproudofmyconcoction.Itmayhavebeenaroughdiamond,butithadawonderfullysoft,butteryfleshenhancedbythetextureofthewalnuts,andjusttherightamountofsweetness.Itendedupbeingoneofourbest-selling‘sortofcakes’.

Serves12–14

9eggyolks

135g(4¾oz)raw(demerara)sugar

75g(2¾oz)honey

345g(12oz)caster(superfine)sugar

180g(6¼oz)milkchocolate(35–40%cocoasolids),chopped

450g(1lb)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,chopped

4eggwhites

250g(9oz)walnuts,coarselychopped

finelygratedzestof1lemon

180g(6¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

Caramel

70ml(2¼floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

140g(5oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped

Todecorate

sliveredpistachios

walnuts,roastedandroughlychopped

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,unsifted

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LTomakethecaramel,putthecreaminasaucepanovermediumheatandbringtojustbelowtheboil.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthesugarand2tablespoonswaterinamediumheavy-basedsaucepan(seetip).Cookovermediumheat,withoutstirring,untilthesugarcaramelisestogoldenbrown.Stirringcontinuously,carefullypourinthewarmcream(beextremelycarefulwhenyoudothis,astherewillbealotofveryhotsteam).Stirfor1minute,thenremovefromtheheat.Addthebutterandstiruntilwellcombined.Usingastickblender,emulsifythecarameluntilsmoothandshiny.Cooltoroomtemperature.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggyolks,rawsugar,honeyand135g(43/4oz)ofcastersugaronhighspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntillightandcreamy.Transferthemixturetoamediumbowl.

LMeanwhile,meltthechocolateinabain-marie(seetips).Removefromtheheat,addthebutterandstirwithawoodenspoonuntilsmoothandwellcombined,thensetaside.

LPreheattheovento140°C(285°F).Lightlygreasetwo8x25cm(3¼x10in)loaf(bar)tinsandlinethebaseandsideswithbakingpaper.

LPuttheeggwhitesinthecleanbowloftheelectricmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachmentandwhiskonthehighestspeeduntilsoftpeaksform.Becarefulnottooverwhisktheeggwhitesortheywillsplit(seetip).Reducethespeedtolow,thengraduallyaddtheremaining210g(7½oz)ofcastersugarandcontinuemixingonlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntilthemeringueisthickandglossy.Usingarubberspatula,foldthechocolateandbuttermixture,walnutsandlemonzestintothemeringueuntiljustcombined.Foldintheeggyolkmixture,thentheflouruntilwellcombined.

LDividethemixturebetweenthepreparedtinsandbakefor40minutes,orjustuntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandsetasideinthetinfor1hour.Invertthetinsontoseparateservingplates,thenpourhalfthesoftcarameloverthetopofeachloaf.Sprinklewiththepistachios,walnutsandicingsugar.Thiscakeisdeliciousservedcoldwithascoopofmascarponeandaglassoffortifiedwine.

tip

Whencookingcaramel,itisbesttouseamedium-sizedpan,eventhoughyouareonlyusingasmallamountofsugarandwater.Thisallowsthesteamtoescapewhenthecoolerliquidisaddedtothewarmcaramel.Asthesugarstartstocaramelise,useapastrybrushdippedincoldwatertocleanoffanysugarcrystalsonthesideofthepan.

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Muffinscaramel-banane

(Bananaandcaramelmuffins)Youmightbesurprisedtoseeamuffinrecipeinthisbook.Theyarenotsomethingyou’dsee

veryofteninaFrenchbakery,butIhaveincludedthemherebecausetheyareincrediblyquickandeasytomakeandalmostfailproof—theperfectrecipeforbuddingbakers.MuffinscanbeamazinglyversatileandIloveexperimentingwithnewflavoursandtextures.Thisbananaandcaramelversionisoneofmyfavourites,butfeelfreetousethisrecipeasabaseandletyourimaginationrunwild.Youcouldtrysomethingadventurous,suchasapricotandverbena,orbitterchocolatewithcoffeeandcardamom,orifyouprefersomethingalittlemoreconservative,tryraspberriesandcoconut.

Makes24

3mediumbananas

juiceof1lemon

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

Batter

660g(1lb7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

540g(1lb3oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2½teaspoonsfinesalt

18g(¾oz)bakingpowder

4eggs

540ml(18¼floz)full-creammilk

330ml(11¼floz)vegetableoil

LCutthebananasinto1cm(½in)thickslicesandplaceinabowl.Addthelemonjuice,tosstocoatwell,thensetaside(seetip).

LPutthebutterandsugarinalargefryingpanoverhighheatandcookuntilmelted.Strainthebananasoverabowlandreservethelemonjuice,thenplacethebananaslicesinasinglelayerinthepanwiththemeltedbutterandsugar.Reducetheheattomediumandcookfor2–3minutes,oruntilthesugarcaramelises.Turnthebananasinthecarameluntilbothsidesaregolden,then

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removefromthepanandplaceinabowl.Addthereservedlemonjuicetothecaramelandcombinewell,thentransfertoaheatproofbowl.Coverthetwobowlscontainingthebananasandcaramel,thenrefrigeratefor1hour,oruntilcold.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Linetwo12-holestandardmuffintinswithpapercasesorsquaresofbakingpaper.

LTomakethebatter,useanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmentonlowspeedtocombinetheflour,sugar,saltandbakingpowder.Lightlybeattheeggs,milkandoilinabowluntilwellcombined.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheeggmixturetothedrymixture,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlandthepaddlesasyougo.Don’taddtoomuchliquidatonceoryouwillendupwithlumps.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast1hourbeforeusing.

LHalf-fillthepapercaseswiththebatter.Addafewslicesofbananaandateaspoonofcarameltoeach,thentopupwithenoughbattertocomeabout1cm(½in)fromthetopofthecases.Topwithafewmoreslicesofbananaandanotherteaspoonofcaramel,thenbakefor40minutes,oruntilaskewercomesoutcleanwheninsertedintothecentreofamuffin.Leavetocoolinthetinfor5minutes,thenremovetoawirerack.

technicaltip

Lemonjuiceisaddedtotheslicedbananastostopthemfrombrowning(oxidising).Thisiscausedbyachemicalprocesscalled‘enzymaticbrowning’,wheretheenzymesinthefruitreacttothepresenceofoxygen.ThisprocesscanbesloweddownbyreducingthepHlevelofthefruitbyaddinganacid.Inbakingweusuallyusecitrusfruit(theyhaveahighcontentofascorbicandcitricacid),notonlytoslowoxidationbutbecausetheirtartflavourworksverywellatreducingtheperceivedtasteofsweetness.Insavourycookingorwhenanacidictasteisundesirable,soaktheslicedfruitorvegetableincoldwatertoreducetheirexposuretooxygen.

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Diplomate

(Breadandbutterpudding)Ifyouhavebeenexperimentingwithbakingcroissants,briochesorbreadsandyounowhave

morethanyouknowwhattodowith,thediplomateistheanswertoyourdilemma.Everyday,everybakeraroundtheplanetfacestheproblemofdecidinghowmanyviennoiserietheyneedtoproduce:notenoughandthecustomerswillgetupset,toomanyandthewastagecostswillsoonamounttoasmallfortune.Nowthatwearen’tallowedtogiveawayourleft-overstockbecauseofoverzealousregulations,theonlychoiceleftistofindaningeniousmethodtorecyclethem.OverthecourseofmycareerIhaveseenitall,fromthesurprisinglytastyrumballs,oftenmadewithleft-overcakeorpastries,tocuttingalmondmealwithshreddedcroissantsand,ofcourse,thedeliciouslyrusticandearthybreadandbutterpudding.

Serves6

500g(1lb2oz)day-oldcroissantsand/orbrioches

200g(7oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)

1.5litres(52floz)full-creammilk

150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

12eggs

250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar

50ml(1¾floz)rum

200g(7oz)apricotjam,forglazing

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreasea12x25cm(4½x10in)rectangularcaketin,thenlinethebaseandsideswithbakingpaper.

LSlicethecroissants(and/orbrioches)into1cm(½in)thickslicesandarrangealayerofpastriessnuglyoverthebaseofthepreparedtin.Toachieveabettervisualimpact,laythepastriessothelightside(theinsideofthepastry)isfacingdown.Sprinklesomeofthesultanasoverthetop,thencontinuestackingandlayeringtheremainingpastriesandsultanas.

LPutthemilk,butterandvanillabeansinasaucepanovermediumheat.Assoonasthesurfacebeginstoshimmer,removefromtheheat,coverwithalidandsetaside.Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,beattheeggsandsugartogetheruntilacreamy,pale

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yellowbatterforms,thenwhiskintherum.Removethevanillabeansfromthehotmilkandreserve.Whiskingcontinuouslyonlowspeed,graduallyaddthehotmilktotheeggmixture—don’tpourtoofastorthesuddenriseintemperaturemightcooktheeggsandcurdleyourcustard.Scrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothecustardandwhiskuntilevenlydispersed.

LPourthecustardoverthecroissantsuntilthemixturereachesthetopofthetin.Setasideforafewminutes,thenuseyourfingertipstopunchholesthroughthepastries,toallowthecustardtosoakintothem.Continuepouringinthecustardinsmalladditionsuntilthepastriesfeelsoft.

LBakefor45minutes,oruntilaparingknifeinsertedintothepuddingcomesoutclean.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocoolfor30minutes,thencoverandrefrigeratefor2hours.Removefromthefridgeanduseaserratedknifetoremoveanyburntordried-uppastryfromthetop.Todothis,runtheknifestraightovertheedgesofthetin,fromonesideallthewaytotheother.Placeaservingplateoverthetinandflipthepuddingover,thenremovethetinandbakingpaper.

LTomakeaglaze,putthejamand2tablespoonswaterinasmallsaucepanandstirovermediumheatuntilmeltedandsmooth.Brushtheglazeoverthepudding.Servewarmwithfreshberriesandyoghurtorthick(double/heavy)cream.Aswithmanycustardcakesandpuddings,thiscanbekeptforupto1weekinthefridgeandtastesdeliciousservedeithercoldorwarmedina180°C(350°F)ovenfor5minutes.

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Ardéchoisàlacrèmedemarronsetganacheaucaramelsalé

(Chestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganache)Tofullyappreciatethiscake,youneedtotakeitbacktoitsoriginalsettingintheArdèchearea,

intheRhône-Alpesregion.Thisregionisfamedforitslocalproduce,greenpasturesandrichcuisine—thinkquenelles,gratindauphinois,cheesefondue,froglegs,polentarabbitstew,rissolessavoyardes(puffpastryturnoverswithapearfilling)and,ofcourse,winesandcheeses.FromPaulBocusetotheTroisgrosbrothers,itishometosomeofthemostacclaimedMichelin-starredrestaurantsandis,withoutadoubt,thegastronomiccapitalofFrance.

Asithappens,thewholematernalsideofmyfamilyoriginatesandstilllivesinthisamazingregion.EverytimeIreturntoFrancetovisitmyauntanduncleinabeautifulmedievalvillagecalledCrémieu,IaminvariablytreatedtoabanquetofsomeofthebesttraditionalFrenchfoodandwinesimaginable,fromthemostoutrageouslyrichgratinstoanarrayofincrediblysubtlecheeses.

Now,backtoourchestnutandcaramelcake.Yes,itisadecadentcakewithitsbuttery,earthy,slightlychewycrumbandbitterchocolateglaze,butitispossiblyoneofthebestdessertstoenjoywithfriendsandfamilyasyousitaroundadiningtableinfrontofafireonalong,coldwinter’snight,solvingalloftheworld’sproblems.

Serves10

500g(1lb2oz)tinnedsweetenedchestnutcream(crèmedemarrons),atroomtemperature

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

4eggs

2eggyolks

40ml(1¼floz)rum

3tablespoonshoney

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour,sifted

1teaspoonbakingpowder

100g(3½oz)candiedchestnuts(marronsglacés),coarselychopped

80g(2¾oz)rawalmonds,coarselychopped

Saltedcaramelganache

80ml(2¾floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

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80g(2¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100g(3½oz)darkchocolate(75%minimumcocoasolids),chopped

generouspinchoffleurdeselorothersaltflakes

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreasea25cm(10in)roundcaketin.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthechestnutcreamandbutteronmediumspeedfor3–4minutes,oruntilsmoothandcreamy.Boththechestnutcreamandbuttermustbeatroomtemperature,orthebutterwillhardenandwon’temulsifyproperlywiththechestnutcream.Addtheeggsandeggyolks,oneatatime,allowingeachadditiontobeincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Addtherumandhoney,thenincreasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother5minutes,oruntillightandfluffy.Removethebowlfromthemachine,thenfoldinthesiftedflour,bakingpowder,candiedchestnutsandalmondsuntiljustcombined.Don’tbetemptedtomixthebattertoomuchoncetheflourhasbeenadded,orthewaterinthemixturewilldeveloptheglutenintheflour,resultinginacakewithatough,elasticcrumb.

LPourthemixtureintothepreparedcaketin.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofthecakecomesoutclean.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforeremovingfromthetin.

LTomakethesaltedcaramelganache,putthecreaminasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringcontinuouslywithawoodenspoon.Whenthesugarbeginstocaramelise,reducetheheattolowandcontinuecookinguntilthecaramelbeginstofoamandsmoke.Atthisstage,increasetheheattohigh,thenslowlypourthewarmcreamontothecaramel.Beverycarefulwhenyoudothis,asthedifferenceintemperaturewillcreatealotofhotsteam,sokeepyourhandsasfarawayasyoucanfromthecaramel.Oncewellcombined,removefromtheheat.

LPutthechocolateinasmallheatproofbowl.Pourthehotcarameloverthechocolate,stirringcontinuously,andcombinewell.Usingahand-heldstickblender,processuntilsmoothandshiny,thenstirinthesalt.

LPlacethecakeonaflatservingplateandpourthechocolateganacheoverthetop,startingfromthemiddleandmakingyourwaytotheside.Ifyoulike,decoratewithchocolatecurlsorcandiedchestnuts.ThiscakeisdeliciouswithaglassofChampagneorsweetwine.

tip

Itisimportantthatyouusechocolatewithahighpercentageofcocoa(lesssugar)toreducethesweetnessofthesaltedcaramelganache.Thesaltwill

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balancethebitternessofboththeburntcaramelandchocolate.

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Quatre-quartsàlapoireetauxdates

(Dateandpearpoundcakes)Quatre-quarts(literallymeaning‘four-quarters’)istheFrenchversionofapoundcake,

traditionallymadebymixingthesameamountofthefourmainingredients:flour,eggs,sugarandbutter.Thequatre-quarts,alongwithmanyotherclassicdesserts,suchasParis–Brest,éclairsandmacarons,haveenjoyedaresurgenceinpopularityoverthelastdecadeandcannowbefoundinthebestcakeshopsaroundtheglobe.Whilequatre-quartsremainrusticinappearance,theyarenowcustomisedwithanalmostinfinitearrayofaddedflavoursandtextures.

Serves10–12

200g(7oz)pitteddates,finelychopped

100g(3½oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)

300g(10½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

110g(3¾oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

2tablespoonshoney

7eggs

400g(14oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

10g(¼oz)bakingpowder

100ml(3½floz)rum

Poachedpear

1pear,preferablywilliams(bartlett)orbeurrebosc

350g(12oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

Todecorate

sliveredpistachios

flakedalmonds

choppedglacécherries

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LPutthedatesandsultanasinabowl,coverwithwarmwaterandsoakfor1hour.

LMeanwhile,tomakethepoachedpear,peelthepearandsetaside.Putthesugar,cinnamon,vanillabeansand1litre(35floz)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Addthepearandsimmerfor15minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillfirmtothebite.Tocheckifthepeariscooked,insertaparingknifeintothefruit;thefleshshouldbesoftforabout1cm(½in)andthenfirmtothecore.Removefromtheheatandleavethepearinthesyrupuntilcool.Drainthepear,reservingthesyrup.Patdrywithpapertowel,thenhalveandcorethepearandcutinto1cm(½in)pieces.

LPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreaseandflourthree8x15cm(3¼x6in)caketinsorusetwo18cm(7in)roundtinsifyouprefer.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutter,sugar,yoghurtandhoneyuntillightandfluffy.Reducethespeedtolow,thenaddtheeggsoneatatimeandbeatuntilwellcombined.Sifttheflourandbakingpowdertogether,thenaddtothebatterinonego.Drainthedatesandsultanas;addthedrainedfruitandtherumtothebatterandbeatonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.

LHalf-fillthepreparedtinswiththebatter,arrangethree-quartersofthepearsoverthetop,thentopwiththeremainingbatter.Bakefor10minutes,thenopentheovendoorand,usingalightlyoiledknife,cutalinelengthwaysdownthetopofeachcake—thiswillcontrolthecrackingintoanice,straightline.Bakeforanother1hour,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecentreofacakecomesoutclean.

LRemovethecakesfromtheoven,brushagenerousamountofthepoachingsyrupoverthetop,thenturnthehotcakesoutofthetinsontoawireracktocool.Whencool,decoratewiththeremainingpears,thepistachios,almondsandglacécherries.

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Gâteauàl ’huiled ’olive,aucitronconfitetàlalavande

(Oliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavender)Gâteauàl’huile,yoghurtcake,quatre-quarts…therearedozensofvariationsofwhatare

commonlyknownaspoundcakes,allwiththeirownoriginsandcharacteristics.Thisversionhasgrownexponentiallyinpopularitylargelyduetoincreasedconcernsaboutobesityandcardiovasculardisease.Withnobutter,andthereforenocholesterol,thiscake—longignoredbybakersanywherenorthoftheMediterraneanbasin—seemstohavebecomeaperfect‘guilt-free’indulgence.

Serves8

note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.200g(7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

1teaspoonbakingpowder

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoonfinesalt

2eggs

100ml(3½floz)full-creammilk

100ml(3½floz)virginoliveoil

50ml(1¾floz)LimoncelloorGrandMarnier

lavenderessence,totaste

Candiedlemons

500g(1lb2oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

3lemons,cutinto3mm(1/8in)slices

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,combinetheflour,bakingpowder,sugarandsaltonlowspeed.Lightlybeattheeggs,milk,oliveoilandalcoholinabowluntilcombined.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheeggmixturetothedrymixture,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlasyougo.Oncecombined,increasethespeedtohighandbeatforanother2–3minutes,oruntilemulsified.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours.

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LMeanwhile,tomakethecandiedlemons,put500ml(17floz)water,thesugarandvanillabeansinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Addtheslicedlemons,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilthelemonskinistranslucentandsoft.Removefromtheheat,transfertoaheatproofbowlandcoverimmediatelywithplasticwrap.Setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Lightlygreaseandfloura25cm(10in)roundora10x25cm(4x10in)rectangularcaketin.Drainthelemonslices,reservingthesyrupandvanillabeans.Arrangesomeofthecandiedlemonslicesinaregularpatterntocoverthebaseofthepreparedtin.Coarselychoptheremaininglemons.

LRemovethebatterfromthefridgeandstirin80g(23/4oz)ofthechoppedlemonsandafewdropsoflavenderessence,totaste.Theamountwillvarydependingonthetypeofessenceyouhavebutyouneedtobesparingwithessencesingeneral;theyaremeanttoaddagentlefloraltouch—toomuchwillruinthecake.

LPourthebatteroverthelemonslices,thenbakefor30minutes,oruntilaskewerinsertedintothecakecomesoutclean.Removethetinfromtheovenandpour100ml(3½floz)ofreservedlemonsyrupoverthetopofthecake.Refrigerateimmediatelyforatleast3hours.Tounmould,placethecakeina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutes,theninvertontoaservingplate.Thecakeisbesteatenfreshlybaked,althoughittastesdeliciousreheatedthedayafter.

Osmosisisaprocesswherebyalightsolvent(inthiscase,waterandessences)naturallymovesthroughasemipermeablemembraneintoasolventwithahigherdensity(thethicksugarsyrup)untileachsolventreachesthesamedensity.Intheinstanceofourcandiedlemons,theosmosismovementpushestheoilandwateroutofthelemonthroughthepectinmembraneoftheskin,andisreplacedbythethickersyrup(reverseosmosis).Whencandyingwholefruit,thisprocessisrepeatedseveraltimeswithsyrupofever-increasingdensity(moresugar).

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SouffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées

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SouffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées

(Chartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis)Thiswouldn’tbeatrueFrenchcookbookifitdidn’tincludeatleastonesoufflérecipe.Thisis

quiteawonderfulandimpressive-lookingdessertandIclearlyrememberhowdazzledIwaswhenIfirstlaideyesonthisfluffy,wondrousconcoction.MyparentstookmysisterandmetotheNegresco,oneofthemosticonicandluxurioushotelsontheCôted’Azur.Itwasthemid-seventiesandsoufflésandbombeAlaskareignedsupreme.Iremembersittinginmyvelvet-coveredchair,underahugecrystalcandelabra,whenthewaitergentlyrestedasouffléinfrontofme.Iwasliterallystunned;itwassohighandfluffy—I’dneverseenanythinglikeit.

EvennowthatIunderstandthechemistrybehinditall,makingasouffléremainsatrulymagnificentjugglingact,needingjusttherightbalancebetweenstarchandeggstotrapthesteamnecessaryforittoriseandset,andjusttherighttemperaturesotheeggsdon’tcoagulatetoofast.Butdon’tbenervous;themethodisactuallyverysimpleandalmostfailproofifyoufollowtherecipecarefully.

Serves2

meltedunsaltedbutter,forgreasing

caster(superfine)sugar,fordusting

2eggwhites

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

Custardbase

250ml(9floz)full-creammilk

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

55g(2oz)caster(superfine)sugar

3eggyolks

25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

15ml(½floz)Chartreuseliqueur

Strawberrycoulis

50g(1¾oz)caster(superfine)sugar

150g(5½oz)strawberries,hulledandchopped

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½teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest1/8teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

LUsingapastrybrush,lightlygreasetwo250ml(9floz)ramekinsorovenproofcoffeecupswithmeltedbutter,makingsurethatthebrushstrokesgovertically,fromthebottomtothetopofthedish,tohelpthesoufflétorise.Spoonalittlesugarintoeachramekin,turningthedisharoundsothatthesugarcoatstheentiresurface.Tiptheramekinsupsidedownandtapthemtoremoveanyexcesssugar.Placetheramekinsonabakingtrayandsetasideatroomtemperature.

LTomakethecustardbase,putthemilk,vanillabeanandseedsinasaucepanandbringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheat,pourintoabowlandsetasidetocoolfor1–2minutes.

LMeanwhile,putthesugarand2eggyolksinabowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthesugarandeggyolksfor2–3minutes,oruntillightandcreamy,thenwhiskintheflouruntilsmooth.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddthewarmmilkandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Pourthemixtureintoasaucepanandwhiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthemixturecomestotheboilandisthickandsmooth.Removefromtheheatandwhiskintheliqueur,thensetasidefor5minutestocoolalittlebeforewhiskinginthefinaleggyolk(don’taddittoosoonoritwillcurdle).Coverthebowlwithadampclothandsetaside.

LTomakethestrawberrycoulis,putthesugarand100ml(3½floz)waterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Addthechoppedstrawberries,lemonzestandpepper,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor2minutes.Removefromtheheatandtransfertoasmallbowlandwhilestillhot,coverwithplasticwrapandsetasidetocool.Usingastickblenderorfoodprocessor,puréethecoulisuntilsmooth,thentransfertoasqueezebottleorpouringjug.Refrigerateuntilneeded.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Placetheeggwhitesinaspotlesslycleanbowl.Usingahand-heldwhisk(Istronglyrecommendyouwhisktheeggwhitesbyhandtoavoidsplittingtheeggs—seetip),whisktheeggwhitesuntilfoamyandsoft,thengraduallyaddthesugarandwhiskuntilthemeringueformsstiffpeaks.Thesimplestwaytocheckifthemeringueisreadyistoflipthebowlupsidedown.Ifthemeringuedoesn’tdroponyourhead,itisready!Abetterwaytocheckthisistousethewhisktoliftupasmallamountofmeringue;ifitcreatesastiffpeak,itisready.

LUsingalargespatula,foldthemeringueintothecooledcustardinthreeorfourbatches.Afoldingmotionmeansthatyougentlyrotateyourspatulafromthebottomtothetopofthemix.Neverwhackthespatulafromsidetosideorthemixturewillreleasealltheairandwon’triseduringbaking.

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LFillthesugar-dustedramekinsallthewaytothetop,makingsurethatnomixturetouchestherim,asthisexposedmixturewillcookinstantlyandstopthesouffléfromrisingevenly.Bakefor10–12minutes,oruntilthetopsaregolden.Don’tbetemptedtoopentheovendoorduringbaking,asyouneedtobuildupsteaminsidetheovenforyoursoufflétoriseproperly.Assoonastheyarecooked,removefromtheovenandpokea2cm(3/4in)holethroughthetop.Pour1tablespoonofcoulisintoeachholeandserveimmediately.

technicaltip

Thepressurepointwhenmakingasouffléisthemeringue.Ifyouunderwhiptheeggs,thesouffléwillnotrise;overwhipthemandyouwillendupwithagrainyandwetmess.Togetitrightyoumustfirstunderstandthatameringuerisesbytheactofpushingairintotheelasticeggprotein(albumen).Asyouwhisk,theproteinmoleculesweavetogether,trappingmoreandmorebubblesofair,creatingashinyelasticfoam.However,thosemoleculescanonlystretchsofar.Overmixingwillcausetheeggsto‘split’or,technicallyspeaking,theproteinstrandswillseparateandlosetheirabilitytoretaintheirwater,inwhichcaseyourmeringuewillbecomegrainyandwateryandwillcollapseduringbaking.Althoughthisseemsalittleparadoxical,thegoldenruleissimple:whenindoubt,alwaysunderwhipyourmeringue.

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Gâteauxderizaucarameletàlafleurd ’oranger

(Caramelandorangeblossomricecakes)IfyouhaveeverbeentoFranceandbrowsedthedairysectionofanysupermarket,youwould

havenoticedthehugerangeofrice-basedpuddingsanddesserts.Likemanyoftherecipesinthisbook,ricepuddingsandcakeswerepartofmystapledietasachild.Theyaretheidealpick-me-upforkids(oradultsforthatmatter)ontherun.

Serves10

note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.20g(¾oz)finesalt

180g(6¼oz)arboriorice

500ml(17floz)full-creammilk

250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

150g(5½oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)

1egg

320g(11¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1tablespoonorangeblossomwater

LLightlygreaseten185ml(6floz)ramekinsandplacethemonabakingtray.Alternatively,usea2litre(70floz)tallcaketinorkugelhopfmould(becauseyouareliningthebasewithcaramel,don’tuseaspringformtin).

LBring1litre(35floz)waterandthesalttotheboilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addthericeandcookfor4minutes,thendrainandrinseundercoldrunningwater.Thisprocessisdesignedtoridthericeofmostofitsstarch.

LPutthecoldrice,milk,cream,vanillabeansandsultanasinasaucepanandsimmeroverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,for20minutes,oruntiltheliquidhasbeenabsorbed.Towardstheendofcooking,youwillneedtostirthericecontinuouslytopreventthemixturecatchingonthebaseofthepan.Meanwhile,usinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whisktheeggand120g(4¼oz)ofthesugaruntilthickandpale.Whenthericeisready,addtheeggmixturetothericeandcombinewell.Stirintheorangeblossomwaterandsetaside.

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LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Tomakethecaramel,put80ml(23/4floz)waterinasaucepan,thenaddtheremaining200g(7oz)ofsugar.Cookoverhighheatuntilthesugarbeginstocaramelisearoundtheedges,thenreducetheheattolowandcookuntilgolden.Whilethecarameliscooking,useapastrybrushdippedincoldwatertocleanoffanysugarcrystalsonthesideofthepan.Workingquicklyandcarefully,pourthecaramelevenlyoverthebaseoftheramekins.

LScrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothericemixture,thendiscardthebeans.Fillthecaramel-linedramekinswiththericemixtureallthewaytothetop.Coverwithfoilandbakefor15–20minutes,oruntilthericeiscookedthroughanddoesn’twobblewhenyougentlyshakeoneoftheramekins.Removethericecakesfromtheovenandleavetocool,thenrefrigerateovernight.

LThefollowingday,placetheramekinsina200°C(400°F)ovenfor3minutes.Runthebladeofaparingknifearoundtheinsideofeachramekin,theninvertthericepuddingsontoservingplates.Itisimportantthatyoureheattheramekinsinaveryhotoven—dippingtheminboilingwaterwillnotbehotenoughtosoftenthecaramelatthebaseofthepuddings.

tip

Sugar loses sweetnessduring thecaramelisationprocess,but itgainsbitterness.For this recipe, Iprefera lightgoldenorablonde (paleand lightlycooked)caramel,becausethemixtureforthericecakehasalowsugarcontentandwillbenefitfromasweetercaramel.

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Tartesettourtes

‘I fyouwishtomakeanapplepiefromscratch,youmustfirstinventtheuniverse.’

CARLSAGAN

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Tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches(Chocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberries)

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Tartesettourtes

(Tartsandpies)

TartsareoneofthosestaplesofpâtisseriethathaveremainedalmostunchangedsincetheywerefirstdocumentedatthebeginningoftheMiddleAges.Theyareusuallycircular,madeoutofshortcrustorpuffpastry,andareeithersweettreatslayeredwithfruit,filledwithcreamsandsweetcurds,orsavoury,withfillingssuchasmeatsandvegetables.Inthischapter,Ihavealsoincludedafewtourtes(pies),whicharebasicallythesameasatartbutcoveredwithathinlayerofpastry.Again,therearesweetversions,suchastheapplepie,orsavoury,suchastheclassicmeatpie.

WhenIwasachild,tartsseemedtobetheonethingthatIwasfascinatedwith.WheneverIwalkedpastapâtisserie,Iwasalwayssocompletelydazzledbytheseeminglyendlessrangeoftartsandpiesinthewindowdisplay,inallshapesandsizes,coloursandtextures.ThereasonIwassoenthralledwiththemwasprobablybecauseIcouldalmostunderstandhowtheyweremade.Itwasallthere,rightinfrontofme:thethinlyslicedapples,thecaramelisedcreams,theshinyglazedfruit—whatIsawIcouldalmosttaste,unlikethepetitsgâteauxorentremets(multi-layereddesserts),whichweresuchelaborateworksofartthatIfeltIhadnohopeofeverre-creatingthem.

Ihaveincludedalotofrecipesinthischapterbecausetartsandpiesareaperfectcanvastoexploreyourcreativity,improviseoruseleft-overingredients.Thesearesomeofmyfavouritetartsandpies,butfeelfreetostampyourownstyleonanyoftheserecipesandreplaceanyofthefruitsandcreamsbasedonyourlocation,seasonormood.

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Pâtes

(Pastries)

Beforetheinventionofpuffpastries,Danishesorcroissants,bakersandcookshadlongbeenusingsweetandsavouryshortcrustpastriestopreparetheirdishes.Thesedoughs,whethertheyarepâtessablées,briséesorsucrées,areallmadeusingthreeorfourcommoningredients:flour,fat,salt,sometimeswithaliquidintheformofeggsorwater,and,inthecaseofthesweetshortcrustandshortbreadpastries,anadditionofsugar.Typically,thetypeofshortcrustyourequirewilldictatethetechniqueappliedtotheseingredients.Fromtheveryshort,butterypâtesabléeusedforpetitsfourstothepâteàpâté(literallymeaning‘shortcrustforpâté’,orterrine),thereisabewilderingarrayofpastryvariationstocaterforeveryneed.Ihavechosenthreebasicpastriesfortherecipesinthisbook.

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InFrenchpastrycooking,wemakeadistinctionbetweentwotypesofshortcrustpastries:pâtesablée(similartechnicallytopâtebrisée,whichisusedinsavourypastries)andpâtesucrée.

1.Pâtesablée(shortbreadpastry):

Pâtesabléeisaveryshortandbutterybiscuitorshortbreadpastrythatismadebyamethodcalledsablage,meaningthatyoufirstneedtomixthebutterintotheflourbeforeintroducinganyliquids(ifyouchoosetodoso).Thisprocess‘greases’thegluten(protein)intheflourandstopsitfromabsorbinganyliquidsyoumightadd.Thisinturnstopsthestrandsofglutenfromlengthening,resultinginaverycrumbly(short)pastry.However,atruepâtesablée(madeofbutter,sugar,saltandflour)isachallengetorollforanythingmorethanoneortwotartsatatime,soincommercialkitchensit’smainlyusedinthemanufactureofpetitsfourssecs(biscuits).

Youareprobablyunlikelytowanttomakehundredsoftartsatonetime,soIrecommendusingthispastryformostofthetartsandpiesinthischapter.Tomakethedoughalittlemorepliableandeasiertohandle,Ihaveaddedaneggyolktothebasicrecipe.Thispastryismuchmoredelicateandflavoursomethanpâtesucréeandisincrediblysimpletomake.

2.Pâtebrisée(savouryshortcrustpastry):

Thisisactuallyverysimilartoapâtesabléeinitsmethodology,exceptthatitismadewithoutanysugarandcontainsalotmoreliquids.Themethodof‘sanding’(sablage)thefatandflourtogetherwillensurethatyourdoughremainsbrittle,orshort,andwillreducetheriskofshrinkage,whiletheadditionofliquidwilladdthenecessaryelasticitytomakeiteasytoroll.Bakerstendtofavourthistypeofpastrywhenbakingtartsorpiesfilledwithsoftorliquidingredientssuchasquichesbecause,unlikeflakeddoughssuchaspuffpastry,whichreliesonitsdried-uplayersofpastryfortexture,ashortcrustwillcookwellregardlessoftheviscosityofitsfilling.

3.Pâtesucrée(sweetshortcrustpastry):

Madeusingalmostthesameingredientsaspâtesablée,thispastryismoreelastic,andthereforeidealforthelarge-scalemanufactureoftartandsweetpiebases.Whileitisaloteasiertohandle,ittendstobecrunchierandtougherthanapâtesablée.Thedifferencebetweenthetwopastriesliesnotintheiringredients,althoughtheratioisslightlydifferent,butinthetechniqueused.Forpâtesucrée,youneedtocreamthebutterandsugar,thenaddtheliquid(eggs),andfinishoffbyaddingtheflourdirectlyintothewet

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mixture.Becausetheglutenintheflourisdirectlyexposedtoaliquid,itwilldevelopitscharacteristicelasticityandsubsequentdifferenttexture.

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Pâtesablée

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Pâtesablée

(Shortbreadpastry)Thiscrumbly,delicatepastryisthefoundationformostofthesweettartsinthischapter.Itcan

bealittlehardtohandle,soifyouarenewtomakingpastry,Isuggestyouaddtheeggyolk.

Makes600g(1lb5oz)

note:Tomakechocolatepâtesablée,substitute60g(2¼oz)oftheflourwithunsweetenedcocoapowder.

300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

1¼teaspoonsfinesalt

200g(7oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1eggyolk(optional)

Bymixer

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,combinetheflour,saltandbutteronlow speed for 2–3minutes, or until the lumps of butter are evenly dispersed and themixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).

Stopthemixer,scrapedownthesideofthebowl,thenaddthesugarandtheeggyolk,ifusing,andmixuntilwellcombined.Transferthepastrytotheworksurfaceandshapeitintoaball.Coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Whenyouarereadytouseit,transferthecoldpastrytoanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntil thepastryreachesaconsistent, firmtexture.

Byhand

Puttheflourandsaltinamoundonyourworksurfaceandmakeawellinthemiddle.Placethebutterinthewell(photo1)andmixthebutterintotheflourbyrubbingyourhandstogether(2,3)untilthemixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).

Shapethemixtureintoamoundagain(4)andmakeawellinthemiddle.Addthesugar(5),thentheeggyolk(6)anduseyourfingertipsandtheheelofyourhand(7,8)toincorporatethemintothe flourwithoutkneading thedough (fraisage).Note that kneadingwill develop the gluten and

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toughenthepastry.

Shapeintoadisc(9),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

1

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2 3

4 5

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6 7

8 9

cookingtips:

LNeverwanttoforgetthisrecipeagain?Weighanyamountofbutter,divideitbytwotoworkouttheamountofsugar,thencombinetheweightofthebutterandsugartoworkouttheweightoftheflour.

LTomakedeliciouslybutteryScottishshortbread,simplysubstitute10percentoftheflourintherecipeabovewithmaizecornflour(cornstarch)anddonotaddtheeggyolk.Thiswillmakeyourdough

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incrediblyshort,butamazinglybutteryandbrittle.

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Pâtebrisée

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Pâtebrisée

(Savouryshortcrustpastry)Thissavourypastryisverysimilartopâtesablée,exceptitismadewithoutsugarandcontains

moreliquids(eggyolksandwater).Themethodformakingthispastrybyhandisthesameasforpâtesablée.

Makes900g(2lb)

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

1¼teaspoonsfinesalt

½teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

250g(9oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

2eggyolks

100ml(3½floz)coldwater

Bymixer

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,combinetheflour,salt,pepperandbutter (photo1) on low speed for 2–3minutes, or until the lumps are evenly dispersed and themixtureresemblescoarsebreadcrumbs(sablage).

Stopthemixer,scrapedownthesideofthebowl, thenaddtheeggyolksandcoldwater(2)andmixuntilwellcombined(3).

Transferthepastrytotheworksurfaceandshapeitintoaflatteneddisc(4).Coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Whenyouarereadytouseit,transferthecoldpastrytoanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntil thepastryreachesaconsistent, firmtexture.

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1 2

2 3

cookingtips:

LThisdough,asforallshortdoughs,shouldnotbeworkedtoomuch,asthisdevelopstheglutenintheflourandnotonlyincreasesshrinkagebutalsogivesyouatoughfinishedproduct.Mostsavourytartshellswillbefilledwithaliquid,soanyshrinkagewillincreasetheriskthattheliquidwillspillovertheedgeoftheshellandrununderneaththepastry,makingitsoggy.Topreventthis,cookyoursavouryshortcrustpastrywithalittleexcessdoughfoldedoverthetopofthetin.Thisensuresthefillingwon’tspilloverthetopifthepastryshellshrinksduringbaking.Assoonasthetartcomesoutoftheoven,runaknifearoundthetopof

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thetintotrimtheexcesscookedpastry.

LYoucanpersonaliseyourtartorpiebyaddingsomefinelychoppedbasilleavesorasmallhandfulofblanched,choppedbabyspinachtothedough.Thisnotonlygivesanadditionallayerofflavourtoyourtartbutalsogivesthepastryshellalovelygreenhue.Youcanalsoadd½teaspoonofyourfavouritespice—whateverbestsuitsthefillingortoppingyouareusing.Addtheherbsandspicesatthesametimeaswhenyouaddtheeggyolksandcoldwater.

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Pâtesucrée

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Pâtesucrée

(Sweetshortcrustpastry)TherecipeIhavegivenbelowisactuallyapâtesucréelégère,(lightsweetshortcrustpastry)

becauseitcontainsbakingpowder,whichgivesthedoughamorebrittleandmoredelicatetexture.Foratraditionalversionofpâtesucrée,simplyomitthebakingpowder.

Makes850g(1lb14oz)

270g(9½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

240g(8½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

1egg

2eggyolks

300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

75g(23/4oz)almondmeal

1teaspoonfinesalt

1teaspoonbakingpowder(optional)

Bymixer

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthesugarandbutteronlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntiljustcombined.Becarefulnottocreamthemixture.

Add the egg and egg yolks and beat on low speed for another 3–5minutes, regularly scrapingdownthesideofthebowl.Don’tworryifthemixturelooksasifithassplit—theeggsdon’thavetobefullyincorporatedintothemixture.Stopthemixerandreplacethepaddleattachmentwithadoughhook.Addthedryingredientsandmixonlowspeeduntiljustcombined.

Remove the pastry from the bowl and shape it into a disc (the thinner the disc of dough, thequickeritwillfirmup),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Byhand

Put the sugar inamoundonyourwork surfaceandmakeawell in themiddle.Add thebutter(photo1),then,usingtheheelofyourhand,pressthesugarintothebutter(2)untilsmoothandwellcombined.Shapethemixtureintoasmallmoundandmakeanotherwellinthemiddle.Addtheeggandeggyolks(3) anduseyour fingertips tocombinewell (4, 5).Useapastry scraperor flatspatulatohelpscrapethebutterofftheworksurface.Avoidusingyourhandstodothis,asitwill

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softenthebuttertoomuch.

Puttheflour,almondmeal,saltandbakingpowder,ifusing,inabowlandcombinewell.Shapethebutterandeggmixture intoa thindisc,put the flourmixtureon top (6) anduse the fraisagemethodwiththeheelofyourhandtopressthetwotogether(7).Liftthepastryofftheworksurfacewithapastryscraper(8),turnitoverandpresstogetheragain(don’teverkneadashortcrustpastryoritwillbecometoughandunpalatable).Shapeintoadisc(9),coverinplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

1 2

3 4

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5

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6 7

8 9

freezingdoughs:

LMostofthetartsinthischapterrequireonlyhalfthequantityofdough,butIhavesuggestedthesequantitiesbecauseitiseasierforthemixertomixwell.Theleft-overdoughfreezesverywell,andcanbeusedforanothertart.Coverinplasticwrapandfreezeforupto3months.

Ifyouaregoingtofreezeanyleft-overdoughforfutureuse,adda500mgVitaminCtabletforeach500g(1lb2oz)offlour.Crushthetabletanddissolveitintheeggswhenmakingthedough.Whilethistipis

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morerelevantforyeasteddoughsorawetdoughsuchaspuffpastry,itwillhelpprolongthelifespanoftheglutenandreducetherateofoxidation(formationofbrownspots)intheflour(formoreonfreezingdoughs).

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Rolling,liningandblindbaking

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Rolling,liningandblindbaking

Onceyou’veinvestedtimeandlovemakingyourpastry,youwanttomakesureyoutreatitwiththesamedelicatehandwhenrollingitoutandliningthetartshell.

Rollingthepastry

Whilemostpastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking,youcanhelpreducethisbyworkingthepastryas littleaspossiblewhenrollingitout.Overworkingthepastrydevelopstheglutenintheflourandthisnotonlyincreasesthechancesofshrinkage,italsotoughensit.Alwaysrollpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfacefromthecentreoutwards,rotatingthepastry45degreesatregularintervalsratherthanrollingthepinbackandforth.

Ifitiswarminyourkitchenandthedoughbecomestoosofttoworkwithandstickstotheworksurface, roll thepastryoutbetweentwopiecesofbakingpaper, thenrefrigerate itbrieflyuntil itfirmsupalittle.

Liningthetin

Totransferthepastrytothetin,placeyourrollingpinonthebottomendofthepastryandlooselyrollthepastryaroundthepin.Carefullyunrollthepastryintothetin.Ifyouhaverolledoutyourpastrybetweenpiecesofbakingpaper,removethetopsheet,thencarefullyinvertthepastryoverthetarttin(makesureyoucentrethepastryoverthetinwhenyoudothis,becauseit’sdifficulttomoveitonceinthetin),thenpeeloffthepaper.

Oncethepastry is inthetin,quickly liftuptheexcesspastryhangingovertheside,so itdoesn’tbreakoverthesharpedgeofthetin.Dustlightlywithflour(photo1).Totrimthepastry,carefullyrunasmallsharpknifearoundtherimofthetinandcutawaytheexcesspastry(2).

Alternatively,ifyouareusingaliquidfilling,suchasafillingforquiche,leavetheedgeofthepastryslightlyoverhangingthesideofthetintoallowforanyshrinkage.Ifthepastryshrinks,youruntheriskofthefillingseepingovertheedgeofthepastryandunderneaththebase,whichwillmakeitsoggy.Assoonasthecookedtartisremovedfromtheoven,trimaroundtheedgeofthetinusingasmallsharpknife.Cuttingthepastryaftercookingdoeslookabit lesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforehand,butitensuresyouwon’thaveasoggybase.

Refrigeratethepastry-linedtinfor30minutesbeforebaking.Thishelpstheglutenintheflourto‘relax’andwillreducethechancesofshrinkage.

Blindbaking

Toblindbakeyourtartshell,linethebaseandsideofthechilledtartshellwithalargepieceoffoil,

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leavingthefoiloverhangingtheside.

Filltothetopwithuncookedrice(3),driedbeansorbakingbeads,thenfoldthefoiloverthetopofthericetoleavethetopedgeofthetartshellexposed(4).Fillingwithweightssuchasricepreventsthepastryfromrisingunevenlyandblisteringas itcooks.Toacertainextent, italsoreducesthepossibilityof thepastry sides shrinking,however, thiswillhavemore todowithhowthepastrywasmadeand rolled.Youcanbuybakingbeads fromkitchenware shops,but I find riceworksbetterasitgivesamoreconsistentcoverage(andit’sconsiderablycheaper).Youcanreusethericeorbeansrepeatedly.

Blindbakethetartshellat180°C(350°F)for20minutes,oruntilthebaseislightgolden.Removethericeandfoilandallowthetartshelltocoolbeforefilling.

1 2

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3 4

cookingtip:

LItisagoodideatoreservesomeofthepastryscrapsincaseyourtartshellcracksalittleduringblindbaking.Ifyourfillingisreasonablydry,acrackwon’tmattertoomuch,butifitisrunny,theliquidwillseepthroughthecrack,resultinginasoggypastrybase.Simplypatchupanycracksonthehottartshellwithasmallpieceofreservedpastryandreturntotheovenfor5minutesorsotoallowittodryout.

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Tartericotta-orangeauchocolatetaupastis

(Ricotta,chocolateandpastistart)Thiscombinationofricotta,orangeandchocolateisaclassicallyMediterraneanone—you

mighthavetriedthisfillingincannoli,aSiciliandessertmadeofafine,crunchytubeofpastry,filledwithricottaandvariousflavourcombinations.InProvence,wetypicallyaddeitherorangeblossomwaterorrosewater,aniseorfennelflowerstothericotta.Thisparticularrecipeusespastis,ananise-basedliqueuroriginatingfromMarseille,consumedprofuselybythelocalsasalate-afternoonrefreshment.

Serves8–10

300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

600g(1lb5oz)freshricottacheesedrained(seetip)

150g(5½oz)mascarpone

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

75g(23/4oz)honey

2eggs

3eggyolks

150g(5½oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids)

finelygratedzestof2oranges

30ml(1floz)pastisliqueur

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting

driedcitruszest,toserve(optional)

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Thistartcanbecookeddirectlyintherawpastryshellbut,justtobesafe,youcanbeginthebakingprocessbypar-bakingthecrust.Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilthesideofthepastryisgolden.Unlikeafullblindbake,whichisusuallyreservedforverysoftfillings,youwanttostopbakingassoonasthepastryaroundthesideturnsalightgoldenbrown;thebottomshouldstillbeblonde.Removetherice

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andfoilandsetasidetocool.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthericotta,mascarpone,sugarandhoneyuntilwellcombined.Withthemotoronlowspeed,addtheeggsandeggyolksoneatatime,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandbeatforanother2–3minutes,oruntilwellcombined.

LUsingalargeknife,finelychopthechocolate(don’tuseafoodprocessortodothisorthechocolatewillmelt).Combinethechocolatewiththeorangezestandpastis,thenaddtothecheesemixtureandbeatfor30seconds.

LReducetheoventemperatureto130°C(265°F).Pourthefillingintothetartshell,thenbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor35minutes,oruntilthefillingstopswobblingwhenthetartisgentlyshaken.PersonallyIfindthebrownskinusuallyfoundoncheesecakesandtartsalittleunpalatable,soIalwaysaimforaveryblondetop.Ifyoufindthatthetopofthetartisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Thisdeflectstheheatandslowsdownthecolouration.

LJustbeforeserving,dustwithalittleicingsugarand,ifyoulike,sprinklewithdriedcitruszest.Thistartisdeliciousservedeitherwarmorcoldwithapeppermintteaorstrongcoffeeinthemorning.Personally,Ipreferitwarm,withagenerousscoopofmascarponeandadrizzleofhoney…butthat’sjustme.

tip

Whenbakingsimple,wholesome food,alwayschoose thebest ingredientsavailable.For this tart, I recommendusinga soft Italian ricottamadeofsheep’smilk,preferablymadefreshfromadelicatessen,drainedovernightinacloth.Alternatively,useanyfreshricotta,butitneedstobedrainedineitherapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oronpapertoweltoremovetheexcessliquid.

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Gâteaubasque

(AlmondcustardBasquecake)Forthisverytraditionalcake,wearegoingtoventuretothefarsouth-westofFrance.This

regionisknownastheBasqueCountry,anditsitsdeepinthePyreneesmountains,rightontheborderofSpain.FoodinthispartofFranceusesmanyingredientswethinkofasbeingtypicallyMediterranean,butbecauseofthecolderclimatethecookingtendstobealotricherandearthier.

Thiscakeisagreatexampleofthosetypicallocalcharacteristics,withasimplebutterandalmondcustardsandwichedbetweenacrumblyshortbread.It’sperfectforthoselongwinterevenings,eatenplainorwithafewpreservedcherries,withabowlofhotchocolate,sittinginfrontofthefireplace(or,inmycase,asmallradiantheater).

Serves10

850g(1lb14oz)PâteSucrée

1egg

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

Almondcustard

500ml(17floz)full-creammilk

2tablespoonsrum

50g(13/4oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

100g(3½oz)almondmeal

120g(4¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

4eggs

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

LTomakethealmondcustard,bringthemilkandrumtotheboilinasaucepanovermediumheat.Putthecornflour,almondmealandsugarinaheatproofbowlandcombinewell.Addtheeggsand,usingahand-heldwhisk,beatuntilwellcombinedandcreamy.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddhalfoftheboilingmilktotheflourandeggmixtureandcombinewell,thentransferthemixturetothepanwiththeremainingmilk.Whiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthecustardcomestotheboil,thencontinuewhiskingforanother2minutes.Transferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment.Addthe

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butterandbeatonlowspeedfor10minutes,oruntilwarmtothetouch.Placethecustardinabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandsetasideuntilcooltothetouch.

LPreheattheovento160°C(320°F).Lightlygreasean18cm(7in)round,5cm(2in)deeptarttinwitharemovablebase.

LDividethepastryinhalf.Rolloutoneportiononalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick.Usingthetarttinasaguide,cutoutacircleofpastryabout5cm(2in)widerthanthebaseofthetin.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Pourthecustardintothetartshell,fillingittothetop.Makesurethatthecustardisn’ttoohotorthepastrywillmelt.Conversely,ifitistoocold,itwillsetandbecomedifficulttospread.

LRolloutthesecondportionofpastryuntil3–4mm(1/8in)thick,thencutoutacircleofpastryabout1cm(½in)widerthanthetopofthetin.Rollthepastryaroundtherollingpin,thenrollitoverthetopofthecustard.Sealthelidtothebasedoughbyrunningtherollingpinafewtimesoverthetopofthecakeuntiltheexcessdoughiscutoff.

LTomakeaneggwash,combinetheegg,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofthecake(seetip).Bakefor30minutes,oruntilgolden.Itiscrucialthatthiscakeisbakedatalowtemperaturetoensurethatthepastrybaseisnicelycooked.Ifthecakebecomestoobrownbeforetherecommendedbakingtime,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Removefromtheoven,setasidetocool,thenrefrigerateforatleast30minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Servewarmwithatablespoonofthick(double/heavy)creamormascarpone,andwithasmallglassofCognacinwinter.

tip

Insomeversionsofthistraditionalcake,thetopisscoredinalatticepatternbeforebaking.Todothis,usethebackofaparingknifetogentlyscorethepatternoverthetop(afteryouhavebrushedthecakewitheggwash),takingcarethatyoudon’tcutrightthroughthepastry.

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Tartescrèmebrûléeàlalavande

(Lavendercrèmebrûléetarts)Bakedcustardsinoneformoranotherhaveexistedforhundredsofyears,especiallyaroundthe

regionsofSpainandPortugal,longbeforethefirstdocumentedrecipeforcrèmebrûléeintheseventeenthcentury.Acustardismadewithathickener,suchasflourorcornflour,whileacrèmebrûléeismoreakintoacurd,wherethethicknessandtextureiscreatedbythecoagulationoftheeggs.Thisiswhyitrequiresalittlemorecareduringthebakingprocess—youdon’twantyourbrûléemixturningintoanomelette!Todothistartjustice,youreallyneedadomesticblowtorchtoachieveacrunchyandevenlycaramelisedtop.Agrillwilltendtomeltthesugarunevenlyandburnthepastry.

Makes12

8eggyolks

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

250ml(9floz)full-creammilk

250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

900g(2lb)PâteSablée

lavenderessence,totaste

LPuttheeggyolksinaheatproofbowl,addhalfthesugarandwhiskuntilwellcombined.Makesureyoustartwhiskingassoonasyoupourthesugarintotheeggyolks,toavoid‘burning’theeggs.

LPutthemilk,creamandvanillabeansandseedsinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Removethepanfromtheheatand,whiskingcontinuously,graduallypourthehotcreamontotheeggmixture.Strainthecustardmixturethroughafinesieveintoajug.Setasidetocool,thenreturnthevanillabeanstothemixtureandrefrigeratefor2hours.

LYouwillneedtwelve7.5cm(3in)diametertartlettinsora25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Usinga12cm(4½in)roundcutter,cutthepastryintotwelverounds.Linethebaseandsideofthetinswiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

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LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lineeachpastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden(thecookingtimeisthesameforboththesmalltartsandthesingletart).Removethericeandfoil,thensetthetartshellsasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto90°C(195°F).

LRemovethecustardmixturefromthefridge,removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenaddafewdropsoflavenderessence,totaste.Becarefulnottooverdoit;essencesareveryconcentratedandcanquicklyoverpowerotherflavours.

LToavoidspillage,placethetartshellsonabakingtrayandplaceinthepreheatedoven.Pourinthecustardfilling,beingcarefulyoudon’toverfilltheshellsorthefillingwillrunoverthesideandthepastrywillbecomesoggyunderneath.Bakefor30–40minutes,oruntilthefillingjustwobbleswhenthetartisgentlyshaken.Setasidetocooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigeratefor3hours.Removefromthefridge15minutesbeforeservingandsprinkletheremainingsugarevenlyoverthetarts,includingthepastrycrust.Usingadomesticblowtorch,brownthetopsuntilcaramelised.

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Tarteàlapistache,auxfiguesetàl ’eauderose

(Figandrosepistachiotart)TheingredientsusedinbakingandcookingaroundtheMediterraneanbasin—fromFranceto

Greece,SpainandSicily—havebeengreatlyinfluencedbytheinvasionoftheMoroccanMoors,aroundtheeighthcentury.CommonMiddleEasternspices,fruitsandnuts,suchasfigs,saffron,almondandpistachio,havebeenusedforcenturiesinMediterraneancookingbuthaveneverreallybeenassociatedwithwhatisconsideredtraditionalFrenchgastronomy.Despiteitsexoticorientalflavourprofile,thistarthasbecomeaFrenchclassic,fromProvencetoNormandy.

Serves8–10

300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

1teaspoonrosewater,ortotaste

350g(12oz)PistachioCream

8freshfigs

LLightlygreasea25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.ThereasonIrecommendgreasingthetarttinforthisrecipe(whenIusuallydon’t)isbecausethefigsreleasealotofstickyjuiceswhencookingandtheytendtocaramelisearoundthebaseofthetin,makingitimpossibletoremovethetart.

LRolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento170°C(340°F).Stirtherosewater,totaste,intothepistachiocream.Theamountyouusewillvarydependingonthebrandofrosewaterand,ofcourse,yourpersonaltaste.Rememberthatfloralflavourssuchasrose,orangeblossom,lavender,oranyothers,workbestasanaroma;theyaremeanttoaddasubtlelayerofcomplexitytoyourflavours,sodon’tbetemptedtogooverboard.

LSpoonthepistachiocreamintothetartshelluntiltwo-thirdsfull.Thevolumeofthepistachiocreamwillvarydependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Cutthefigsinhalflengthways,thenarrangethem,cutsideup,ontopofthecream.

LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilgolden.Youneedtokeepacloseeyeonthecolourofthistartduringcooking,asthefigjuicesreleasedduringcookingtend

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tocaramelisebeforethetartisfullybaked.Ifthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Thisdeflectstheheatandslowsdownthecolouration.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolalittle.Ifyoulike,makeaglaze(seetips)tobrushoverthetart.Servewarmwithmascarponeorwhippedcream,orcoldwithyoghurt.

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Tartetatinàlarhubarbe

(Upside-downappleandrhubarbtart)Thisissuchasimple,classictartbutitcanbequitetrickytomake.Notonlydoyouhavetodeal

withtheuncertaintyofwhethertheapplewillsticktothemould,butyoualsohavetothinkaboutoffsettingthesweetnessofthecaramelandcookedapples.Let’sassumethatthefirstpartiscoveredandthetartwillcomeoutinonepiece—becauseitwill—sothentoaddressthesweetnessissue,Ihaveaddedsometart,slightlyacidicrhubarbtobalancetheflavours.So,allhandsondeck,wearedoingit!

Forthisrecipeyouwillneeda25cm(10in)ovenprooffryingpan,aswearegoingtocooktheapplesdirectlyoverahighheat,thenbaketheminthesamevessel.Alternatively,youcanuseashallow,heavy-basedsautépan.

Serves8

note:Startthisrecipe3–4hoursinadvance,toallowtimeforchilling.

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

3stemsrhubarb,choppedintosmallpieces

12smallgrannysmithapples(seetip)

1tablespoonlemonjuice

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

500g(1lb2oz)PuffPastry,5singleturns

LMelt40g(1½oz)ofthebutterand2tablespoonsofthesugarinafryingpanoverhighheat.Addtherhubarb,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionallyfor10minutes,oruntiltherhubarbcollapsesintoathickpurée.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Peel,halveandcoretheapples,thencutinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Sprinkle2tablespoonsofsugaroverthebaseofa25cm(10in)heavy-basedovenprooffryingpanorsautépan.Arrangealayerofappleslicesoverthebaseofthepan,trimmingthecutedgesasneededsotheslicesfitsnugly.Spreadathinlayerofrhubarbpuréeovertheapple,thenrepeatwiththeremainingappleandrhubarb.Theappleswilllosemostoftheirwaterbeforetheystarttocaramelise,sodon’tworryifthevolumelookstoobig.

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LMelttheremainingbutterinasaucepan,thenaddtheremainingsugar,thelemonjuiceandvanillabeanseeds(discardthebeans).Combinewell,thenpouroverthetopoftheapples.Coverthepanwithalidandcookoverhighheatforabout10minutesto‘sweat’theapples.Whentheappleshavereleasedtheirjuices,reducetheheattomedium,thenremovethelidandcookuntilthejuiceshaveevaporatedandtheapplesbegintocaramelise.Transferthepantotheovenandbakefor10minutes,oruntiltheapplescanbepiercedeasilywithasmallknifebutarestillfirm.Removefromtheoven,leaveinthepanuntilcool,thenrefrigeratetheapplesinthepanforabout30minutes,oruntilcold.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredsurfaceintoacircleabout3mm(1/8in)thick.Prickalloverwithaforkandthencutoutacircleofpastryroughly5cm(2in)widerthanthediameterofthepan.Removethepanwiththecoldapplesfromthefridge.Makesuretheapplesarecold,becauseanyheatwillmeltthebutterinthepuffpastry.Covertheappleswiththepastry,tuckingtheexcessaroundtheoutsideedgesoftheapples,liketuckinginablanket.Bakeina180°C(350°F)ovenfor20minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Removefromtheoven,setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigeratefor2–3hourstoallowthebutterandsugartocrystallise—thiswillmakeiteasiertoturnout.

LBeforeattemptingthedreadedflip,heatthepanina200°C(400°F)ovenfor5minutestosoftentheapplesalittle,thensimplyplaceaservingplateontopofthepanandinvertthetartontotheplate.Servewarmwiththick(double/heavy)creamoryoghurtor,evenbetter,flambéedwithCalvados(applebrandy)orrum.

tip

Useafirm-fleshedapplesuchasgrannysmithforthisrecipe,astheyaremorelikelytoretaintheirshapeandtextureduringthebakingprocess.Don’tuseoverlyripefruits;thesewillhavelostsomeoftheirinherenttartnessduringtheripeningprocess,givingyouanoverlysweetandunbalancedfinalproduct—thefleshwillalsobetoosoftwhencooked.

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Tartebanane-réglisse

(Liquoriceandbananatart)Forsomeunknownreason,liquoriceisnotaspopularnowasitwasinthe1970s,when

everythingsmeltofliquoriceorwasflavouredwithit,frommytoothpastetothesmellofpipetobacco.Backthen,oneofthecheapestsweetsavailablewasasmallpieceofrootfromtheliquoricetree.Itlookedlikeathin,brownstickanditgavemeaslightbuzzwhenIchewedonit—Ithoughtthismademelookveryrugged,justlikeClintEastwooddidinthemovieAFistfulofDollars.Nowadays,however,Ilikeliquoriceforitsversatilityandcomplexityofflavour.It’sslightlypepperyyetsweetenough,andaddsanamazingdepthofflavourtobothsavouryandsweetdishes.

Serves8–10

300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

5largebananas

juiceof1lemon

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

60g(2¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

Liquoricecustard

250ml(9floz)full-creammilk

250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

80g(23/4oz)softliquorice,thinlysliced

40g(1½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

25g(1oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

3eggs

LTomaketheliquoricecustard,putthemilkandcreaminasaucepanoverhighheatandbringtotheboil.Stirintheliquorice,thenremovefromtheheat,coverandsetasideuntiltheliquoriceisfullydissolved.Alternatively,youcanspeeduptheprocessbyusingastickblender.Whencooledtoroomtemperature,transfertoamediumbowl.Combinethesugarandcornflourinasmallbowl,thenaddtothecooledcreammixtureandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addtheeggsandwhiskuntilwellcombined,thenstrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajugandrefrigerate.

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LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoil,thensetthetartshellasideuntilcool.

LCutthebananasinto5mm(¼in)slicesandtossinabowlwiththelemonjuicetostopthembrowning.Meltthebutterandsugarinafryingpanoverhighheat.Shakethepanuntilthesugarcaramelisestoalightgoldenbrown,thenaddthebananamixtureandtosstocombine.Donotstirthebananas;instead,holdthehandleofthepanwithbothhandsandtossthebananasoccasionallyuntilgolden.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolslightly.

LPlacethecaramelisedbananaslicesoverthebaseoftartshell,arrangingtheminacircularpattern,startingontheoutsideedgeoftheshellandtightlyoverlappingeachslicewithanotheruntilyoureachthestartingpoint.Continueinthismanner,workingincirclesuntilyoureachthemiddleofthetart.

LToavoidspillage,placethetartshellonabakingtrayandplaceintheoven.Slowlypourthefillingoverthebananas,stoppingjustbelowthetop.Don’toverfillthetartshell,asthepastrymayshrinkalittleduringbakingandthefillingwillrunoverthesideoftheshell,causingittobecomesoggyunderneath.Bakefor30minutes,oruntilthefillingwobblesslightlywhenthetartisgentlyshaken.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

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Clafoutisauxcerises

(Cherryclafoutis)ClafoutisoriginatesfromtheLimousinregionofFranceandistypicallymadewithcherries,but

therearenumerousversionsthroughoutmanypartsofFrance.InProvence,forexample,itisknownasaflaugnarde,andisusuallyfilledwithapples,apricotsorfreshfigs.WhenmysisterandIvisitedmygrandmotherduringthesummerholidays,sheusedtobakethischerryclafoutisforus(aswellashalfthechildreninthevillage)forlegoûter,amid-afternoonpick-me-upsnack.

Serves8–10

290ml(10floz)full-creammilk

250ml(9floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

120g(4¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

60g(2¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

4eggs

300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

300g(10½oz)freshblackcherries,pitted

LPutthemilk,creamandvanillabeansinasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat,thenremovefromtheheat.Removethevanillabeansandusethebackofasmallknifetoscrapealongthelengthofeachcutsidetoremovetheseeds.Addtheseedstothehotmilkanddiscardthebeans.

LPutthesugarandflourinabowlandstiruntilwellcombined(thiswillreducethechanceofthebatterbecominglumpy).Addtheeggsand,usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskuntilsmooth.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddthehotmilkmixturetotheeggmixtureuntilwellcombined.Coverwithplasticwrap,setasidetocool,thenrefrigerateforatleast1hour.Anybattermadewithflourneedstorestbeforebakingtoallowtheglutentorelax.Thiswillreducethechewinessofthefinalproduct,andgivesthestarchtimetoabsorbhumidityandhelpitbloom(swell)properlyduringcooking.

LMeanwhile,lightlygreasea25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Idon’tusuallysuggestthatyouneedtogreasethetin,butthisisaverywetmixtureandthecustardmayleakalittleandsticktothetin.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethe

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baseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Scatterthecherriesoverthepastrybase.Don’tbetemptedtoaddmorethanthis,asthecherriesreleasetheirjuicesduringbakingandtoomanywillmakeyourpastrysoggy.Pourthecustardoverthecherries,stoppingabout2mm(1/16in)fromthetop.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Placeonawirerackandleavetocoolalittlebeforeremovingfromthetin.Clafoutisisbestservedatroomtemperatureandtastesevenbetterthedayafter.

servingsuggestion

Tobalancethetartnessofthebakedcherries,servethisclafoutiswithalightlysweetenedwhippedcream—add1tablespooncaster(superfine)sugarforevery100ml(3½floz)ofwhippingcream.Thefatinthecreamwillalsohelptosoftenthetasteandimprovetheoverallflavouroftheclafoutis.

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Tartemeringuéeaucitronetaubasilic

(Lemonandbasilmeringuetart)Tartsfilledwithlemonhavebeenaroundforcenturies,butitwasn’tuntilthenineteenth

centurythataSwissbakerhadtheideaoftoppingthepiewithmeringue.Thisverycleverideabalancesthetartnessofthelemonswithsweetnessofthemeringue,whilethecrunchypastrybaseaddsatexturallayer.InthisrecipeIhaveaddedbasil,bringingintonationsofpepper,mintandanise,whichsoftensthesweetnessofthemeringueandhelpstorefinetheslightlyharshflavourofthelemoncurd.

Serves8–10

note:Startthisrecipeadayahead.300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

200g(7oz)eggwhites(about6–7)

300g(10½oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted

Curd

100g(3½oz)basilleaves

icecubes

140ml(43/4floz)lemonjuice

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways

190g(63/4oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1tablespoonmaizecornflour(cornstarch)

3eggs

1eggyolk

240g(8½oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

LTomakethecurd,bringasaucepanofwatertotheboil,addthebasilandreturntotheboil.Removethebasilwithaslottedspoonandquicklyplaceonabedofice.Whentheleaveshavecooled,placeinablenderandblendintoafinepurée.Transfertoabowl,addthelemonjuiceandvanillabean,thencoverandrefrigerateovernight,toallowtheflavourstodevelop.

LThefollowingday,putthesugarandcornflourinabowlandwhiskuntilsmooth.Addthe

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eggsandeggyolkandcombinewell.Removethevanillabeanfromthelemonandbasilmixture,thenusethebackofaknifetoscrapealongthelengthofeachcutsidetoremovetheseeds.Addtheseedstotheeggmixtureandcombinewell.Discardthevanillabeans.Addthelemonandbasilmixturetotheeggmixture,then,usingastickblender,processuntilsmoothandwellcombined.

LStrainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoaheatproofbowlandplaceoverabain-marie(seetips).Usingahand-heldwhisk,whiskthemixtureuntilthickandopaque(about70°C/160°F).Atthistemperaturetheeggyolkiscookedandthecornflourhasfullygelatinised.Removethebowlfromtheheat,addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoblenduntilsmoothandcreamy.Coverthesurfacewithplasticwrap,leavetocoolslightly,thenrefrigerate.

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.

LFillthetartshellwiththecoldcurdandspreadthetopwithaspatulauntilsmooth.Makesurethecurdiscoldoryourpastrywillbecomesoggyandloseitstexture.Refrigeratewhileyoumakethemeringue.

LTomakethemeringue,useanelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmenttowhisktheeggwhitesonhighspeedjustuntilstiffpeaksbegintoform.Donotoverwhipthemoryouwillendupwithalumpytexture.Addhalftheicingsugar,reducethespeedtomediumandwhiskfor30seconds,thenaddtheremainingicingsugarandwhiskforanother1minute.

LUsingaspatula,spreadthemeringuegenerouslyoverthetart.Don’tmakethemeringuetooflat;usethespatulatomakesmallpeaksinthemeringue.Usingadomesticblowtorch,lightlybrownthemeringue.Alternatively,placethetartunderapreheatedgrilluntilthetipsofthemeringuehavecaramelised.Thetartisbestservedonthedayofmaking.Ifyoulike,servewithacoulisoflightlypepperedraspberries.

tip

Youcanmakethecurdusingotherjuices,butyouneedtomaintainagoodbalancebetweenthecurdandthesweetnessofthemeringue,sosticktotartoracidicfruitssuchaspineapple,passionfruitoranyothercitrusfruit.

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TarteamandineauxpoiresetàlaWilliamine

(Pearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueur)Youjusthavetolookatanycookingshow,thedisplaywindowofanypâtisserieorany

cookbookonbakingtorealisehowpopularthistartis.Itencompasseseverythingthatatartshouldbe:rusticandappetising,veryeasytomake,andstilldeliciousorevenbetterthedayafter,forbreakfast(asistheFrenchway!),withacupofcoffee.Thebeautifulbalancebetweenthedifferenttexturesofsoftfruit,fluffyalmondcreamandcrumblyshortcrusthaveensuredthatthistarthasremainedunchangedformorethana100yearsandremainsoneofmyfavouritetartstomakewhencookingathome.

PearandalmondtartsarecommonlycalledtarteBourdaloue,eventhoughtheoriginalversionwasactuallymadewithpoachedapricots.AFrenchbakeriscreditedwithitscreationattheendofthenineteenthcentury.HisbakerywassituatedonastreetcalledRueBourdaloue…andhencethename.

Serves8–10

300g(10½oz)PâteSablée

250g(9oz)AlmondCream

Poachedpears

240g(8½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

2–3william(bartlett)pears(seetip)

Liqueursyrup

180g(6¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

40ml(1¼floz)Williaminepeareau-de-vie,oranypear-basedliqueur

LTomakethepoachedpears,putthesugar,vanillabeansand500ml(17floz)waterinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Peelthepears,thenaddtothesyrup,coverthepanwithalidandsimmergentlyfor15minutes,oruntiltenderbutstillfirmtothebite.Becarefulnottoovercookthepears;youneedtofeelabitofresistancewhenpiercingthemwithaknife.Drainandcool,thencutthepearsinhalflengthwaysandremovethecoresbutkeepthestemofoneofthepearsattached.

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LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Tartsfilledwithalmondcreamdon’tneedthepastrytobeblindbaked.Spoonthealmondcreamintothepastryshelluntilaboutthree-quartersfull.Thevolumeofthealmondcreamwillvary,dependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Cuteachpearhalfintofourwedgesandarrangeontopofthealmondcream.Placeawedgeofpearwiththestemattachedinthecentreofthetart.Bakefor40minutes,oruntilgolden.

LMeanwhile,tomaketheliqueursyrup,put250ml(9floz)water,thesugarandpearliqueurinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Assoonasthetartcomesoutoftheoven,brushasmallamountofsyrupoverthepears,butnottoomuchorthetartwillgosoggy.

LYouhaveprobablyeatenthistartbefore,soyoumayhaveyourpreferredwaytoserveit.Iamnotabigfanofeatingitwarm,becausetheflavourofthepeartendstogetoverpoweredbythesweetnessofthealmondcream,soIliketoserveitcold,perhapswithastrongcoffeeorevenaglassofcrispwhitewine.

tip

Williams(bartlett)pearsareharvestedinsummerandarethemostpopularpearusedinbakingbecauseoftheirsweetanddense,smoothflesh.Ifyouareusingbutterypears(suchasbeurrebosc)orwaterypears(suchasthepopularnashipear),bakethemdirectlywithoutpoaching.

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Tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches

(Chocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberries)So,you’vegotguestsarrivinginafewhoursandyouneedastunningdessert.Don’tlookany

further!Whilemanypeoplelikeraspberriesandmostpeoplelovechocolate,Icanguaranteethateveryonewillloveachocolateandraspberrytart.

Althoughtherecipeforthistartisquitesimple,thereisoneimportantthingyouneedtoknow:tartnessdoesnotmitigatebitterness.BythisImeanthatthetartnessoftheraspberrieswillonlyexacerbatethebitternessofachocolatethathasahighpercentageofcocoa(lesssweet),sodon’tbetemptedtofallintothetrapofbuyingabitterchocolatesimplybecauseitisoftenmarketedasbeingabetterchocolate.Eachtypeandvarietyofchocolatehastobeconsideredaccordingtothetasteandflavourrequirementsoftherecipe.Whenusingatartoracidicingredient,suchastheraspberriesusedhere,alwaysincreasethesugarcontentslightlybyusingaslightlysweeterchocolate(onewithalowerpercentageofcocoa),tobalanceouttheflavours.

Serves10

300g(10½oz)ChocolatePâteSablée

250g(9oz)freshraspberriesorstrawberries

100g(3½oz)pistachios,sliveredorcoarselychopped

Chocolateganache

250g(9oz)darkchocolate(65%cocoasolids),chopped

90g(3¼oz)honey

300ml(10½floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil4mm(1/8in)thick,dustingwithalittleextraflourifnecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,thenrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor10minutes,thenremovethericeandfoilandbakeforafurther10minutes,oruntilthebaseis

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golden.Leavetocool,thenrefrigeratewhileyoumakethefilling.

LTomaketheganache,putthechocolateandhoneyinasmallheatproofbowl.Putthecreaminasaucepanandbringtotheboilovermediumheat.Slowlypourthehotcreamoverthechocolateandhoneyandcombinewellwithaflatspatula—donotuseawhisk(seetip).

LStandtheganacheatroomtemperatureuntilcooltothetouch.Addthebutter,thenuseastickblendertoprocessuntilsmoothandemulsified.Pourtheganacheintothecoldtartshellandleaveatroomtemperaturefor15minutes,oruntiltheganachethickens.Decoratethetopwithberries,sprinklewiththepistachios,thenrefrigerateuntilreadytoserve.Removethetartfromthefridge15minutesbeforeservingandservewithmascarponeorthick(double/heavy)cream.

tip

Donotuseawhiskwhenmakingtheganache.Traditionalganachecreamsareemulsionsoffat(cocoabutterandbutter)andliquid(cream)andshouldnot be aerated.Whipped ganaches are technically a verydifferent type of cream; these are popular amongprofessional pastry chefs as a filling forchocolatebonbons.

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Conversationauxorangesépicées

(Almondandspicedorangetart)Oneofmyfirstjobsasanapprenticechefwastomaketheconversation,notasatartasit’s

typicallyseen,butasaslice.Irememberbeingamazedatthemirror-likefinishofthebakedroyalicingandthecontrastbetweenthelightpuffpastry,thefluffyalmondcreamandcrumblyshell.Thetraditionalrecipefortarteconversationisactuallyalittletooheavyandsweetformyliking,soIhaveaddedspicedorangemarmaladetooffsetsomeofthesweetness,andorangeblossomwatertoaddsomefloralnotes.Ifyoudon’twanttomakethemarmalade,useagood-qualityready-mademarmaladeorraspberryjam.

Serves8–10

500g(1lb2oz)PuffPastry,5singleturns

2–3teaspoonsorangeblossomwater,ortotaste

250g(9oz)AlmondCream

Marmalade

300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2tablespoonsChinesefivespice

3teaspoonsfinesalt

2oranges,washed

Royalicing

1eggwhite

140g(5oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar

fewdropsoflemonjuice

LTomakethemarmalade,put1litre(35floz)water,200g(7oz)ofthesugar,fivespiceandsaltinaheavy-basedsaucepanandbringtotheboil.Addthewholeoranges,thencoverthepanandsimmeroverlowheatfor35minutes,oruntiltheorangescrackopen.Draintheorangesanddiscardthecookingsyrup.Whencool,cutopentheorangesandremovetheseeds.Placetheunpeeledorangesinafoodprocessorwiththeremainingsugarandprocessuntilaroughpuréeforms.Transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateuntilcold.

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LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil3mm(1/8in)thick.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Reserveandrefrigeratetheoffcutstodecoratethetart.

LStirtheorangeblossomwaterintothealmondcreamuntilwellcombined,thenhalf-fillthetartshellwiththealmondcream.Thevolumeofalmondcreamwillvarydependingonhowmuchitwasbeaten,soyoumighthavesomeleftover.Coverthealmondcreamwithalayerofthecooledorangemarmaladeandrefrigeratewhileyoumaketheroyalicing.

LTomaketheroyalicing,useanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmenttobeattheeggwhiteonlowspeedfor30seconds,thenslowlyaddtheicingsugar,waitingforittodissolvefullybeforeaddingmore.Whenthemixturefirmsup,addafewdropsoflemonjuicetosoftenittoaspreadableconsistency.

LCoverthemarmaladewithathinlayerofroyalicing,about2mm(1/16in)thick.Todecoratethetartwithalatticedesign,cutthereservedpastryoffcutsinto1cm(½in)widestrips.Whileyoucangetquitetechnicalabouttheactuallatticework,youcansimplylayparallelstripsofpastryacrossthetart,spacingthemabout3cm(1¼in)apart,thenrotatethetart45degreesandrepeattheprocess.Refrigeratethedecoratedtartfor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,preheattheovento190°C(375°F).Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilgolden.Ifthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Coolalittlebeforeremovingfromthetin.Serveatroomtemperaturewithcrèmefraîche.

tip

Servingacakeortarteitherwarmorhotwillexacerbatethe‘feeling’ofsweetness.Asarule,whenyoubakeacakewithahighsugarcontent,itisbettertoserveitcold,preferablywithanunsweetenedyoghurt,crèmefraîcheorsourcream.Thefattinessandsournessoftheyoghurtorsourcreamwillfurtherreducetheperceivedsweetness.

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Tarteauxblettesetauxraisins

(Silverbeetandraisintart)Silverbeetpiesandtarts,eithersavouryorsweet,arespecialtiesfromNice,acitylocatedonthe

Côted’AzurinthesouthofFrance.Iwasbornthere,aswasmydadandhisfather,andwasbroughtuponasteadydietoflocalspecialties,suchasPissaladière,soccaniçoise(chickpeacrepe)andthissilverbeettart.Ihavechosentofeaturethesavouryversionofthistortadeblea(asit’scalledinthelocaldialect)becauseithasabroaderappealthanitssweetercousin,andbecauseitisyetanotherexampleofhoweventhesimplestandcheapestingredients,whenbakedproperly,candeliveramazingresults.

Serves6–8

225g(8oz)PâteBrisée

700g(1lb9oz)silverbeet(Swisschard)leaves

2teaspoonsvegetablestock(bouillon)powder

1teaspoonfinesalt

60g(2¼oz)whitecamarguericeoranyround-grainrice,suchasarborio

2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil

1onion,finelychopped

2garliccloves,finelychopped

120g(4¼oz)speckorsmokedbacon,diced

100g(3½oz)ham,diced

100ml(3½floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

100ml(3½floz)milk

3eggs

½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

40g(1½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

40g(1½oz)parmesancheese,grated

85g(3oz)raisinsorsultanas(goldenraisins)

½teaspoongroundblackpepper

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthe

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doughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.

LMeanwhile,cookthesilverbeetleavesinalargesaucepanoflightlysaltedboilingwaterfor3minutes.Drainandrefreshinabowloficedwatertostopthecookingprocess.Placetheleavesinacleanclothandsqueezeoutasmuchwateraspossible.Thisprocessiscalledblanchingandstopstheleavesoxidisingandturningbrown.

LPutthestockpowderinasaucepanwith500ml(17floz)waterandthesaltandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Stirintherice,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilthericeisaldente.Drainwellandsetaside.

LHeattheoliveoilinasaucepanoverhighheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcookfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously,untilgolden,thenaddthespeckandhamandcookforanother5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

LPutthecream,milk,eggsandnutmeginabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieve,thenaddtherice,silverbeet,cheeses,raisinsandspeckmixture.Addthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.

LPourthefillingintothetartshell,smooththetop,thencookonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Coolonawirerack.Thistartisusuallyservedcoldoratroomtemperatureinsummer.Itisalsodeliciousservedthenextday;simplyreheatinawarmovenforafewminutes.

tip

Asisthecaseformanytartsfilledwithaliquid,itisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascookedbecausethepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking.Cuttingthepastryafterwardsdoeslookalittlelesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforecooking,butitensuresthatnoneofthefillingseepsovertheside,whichinvariablyleadstoasoggy,rawpastrybase.

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Tourteauboeufbourguignon

(Beefburgundypie)BoeufbourguignonisanotherexampleofatraditionalFrenchpeasantdishthathasmanagedto

finditswayontothemenusofmanyMichelin-starredrestaurants.Tenderisingcheapcutsofmeatbycookingthemslowlyisanage-oldmethodthathasbeenrefinedandpolishedovertime,andopenedthedoortonewtrends.‘Nosetotail’,‘paddocktoplate’or‘slowcook’arepopulartermsincookingcirclesnowadays,asmeatcutsonceconsideredofsubstandardquality,suchasbeefcheeks,oxtailsorporkbelly,arebeingservedatpremiumpricesacrossthetablesofsomeofthebestrestaurantsaroundtheworld.

Ofallthosestews,boeufbourguignonreignssupremeinFranceandisoneofthestaples—alongwithcrèmebrûléeandsteakfrites—youarelikelytofindineverycaféandbistroacrossthecountry.Servethepiewithacrispleafsaladorusethefillingasatoppingforabowlofpasta.

Serves6

2eggs

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

450g(1lb)PâteBrisée

Filling

50g(13/4oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

300ml(10½floz)goodqualityredwine

2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil

1onion,finelychopped

100g(3½oz)smokedbacon,diced

2garliccloves,finelychopped

250g(9oz)buttonmushrooms,diced

2smallcarrots,diced

1½celerystalks,diced

1tablespoontomatopaste(concentratedpurée)

500g(1lb2oz)beefchucksteak,diced

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125ml(4floz)beefstock,plusextraifneeded

5thymesprigs

1bay(laurel)leaf

1teaspoongroundblackpepper

2teaspoonsfinesalt

LTomakethefilling,putthecornflourand100ml(3½floz)ofthewineinasmallbowlandstiruntilsmooth,thensetaside.

LHeattheoliveoilinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addtheonion,baconandgarlictothepanandstiruntilthemixturebeginstobrown.Addthemushroomsandcarrotsandstiruntilgolden,thenaddalltheremainingingredientsexceptthecornflourmixture.Thereshouldbeenoughliquidtojustcoverthebeef;ifnot,simplyaddmorestock.Stirtocombinewell,thenreducetheheattolow,coverandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for1hour.Itisimportanttoconstantlycheckthatthemeatissubmergedinthejuices;ifitappearstoodry,addmorestockandcontinuecooking.After1hour,checkthebeefbypressingonepieceofmeatbetweenyourfingers—ifitdoesn’tbreakaparteasily,cookforanother10minutesandthencheckagain,toppingupwithmorestockifnecessary.

LWhenthemeatistender,addthecornflourmixtureandcook,stirringcontinuouslyuntilthesaucebeginstoboilandthicken.Removefromtheheat,checktheseasoning,thenpourthebeeffillingoveraflattraywithsidesorintoalargebowl.Coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours,oruntilcool.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,puttheeggs,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.

LDividethepastryinhalf,thencovertheremaininghalfinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linea25cm(10in)pieortarttinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Pourthecooledfillingintothepieshell.

LRemovetheremainingportionofpastryfromthefridgeandrolloutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick.Brushalittleeggwasharoundtherimofthepieshell.Rollthepastryupontoyourrollingpinandplacethepastrylidontopbyrestingonesideofthepastryontheedgeofthetinandthenrollingitgentlyoverthetopofthefilling,takingcarethatairdoesn’tgettrappedunderneath.Gentlypinchthedoughedgesbetweenyourthumbandindexfingerstomakeagoodsealaroundthepie.Runasharpknifearoundtheoutsideedgeof

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thetintoremovetheexcesspastry.

LBrushagenerousamountofeggwashoverthetopofthepieanddecorateitbygentlyscoringageometricdesignintothetopwiththebackofaknife(beingcarefulnottocutallthewaythroughthepastry).Useaskewerorsmallknifetomakeaholeinthecentretoallowthesteamtoescape.Placethepieonabakingtrayandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30–40minutes.Tocheckifthepieisready,liftitupslightlywithaknifetocheckthebase—thepastryshouldbegoldenbrown.Servehot.

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Tourtesdepouletauxpoireauxetaulaurier

(Chicken,leekandlaurelpies)Leeks,alongwithartichokes,areoneofmyfavouritevegetables.Theyaresubtleandsweet

enoughtobeusedasadiscreetaccompanimenttothemostdelicateingredients,suchasscallopsorlobsters,buthaveenoughearthinessandbodytobeusedjustassuccessfullyinrusticpiesandstews,orasagarnishformeatssuchaslambandbeef,aswellasoffalandgamemeat.

Chickenandleekpieflavouredwithafewbay(laurel)leavesisoneofthefewtraditionalprovincialrecipesthatyouwillroutinelyfindineventhemostup-markettraiteur(delicatessen)ineverycityaroundFrance.Itistheidealmealtowarmyouupduringthelongwinternights.

Serves6

2leeks,whitepartonly,cutinto1cm(½in)thickslices

200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2tablespoonsmaizecornflour(cornstarch)

2tablespoonsoliveoil

1onion,finelychopped

2garliccloves,finelychopped

3bay(laurel)leaves

½teaspoongroundblackpepper

500g(1lb2oz)boneless,skinlesschickenthighfillets,cutinto3cm(1¼in)pieces

1teaspoonfinesalt

50ml(13/4floz)whitewine

450g(1lb)PâteBrisée

2eggs

1eggyolk

LPuttheleekslicesinacolanderandrinsethoroughlyunderrunningwater.Patdrywithacleanclothorpapertowel.Placethecreamandcornflourinasmallbowlanduseaforktowhiskuntilsmoothandwellcombined.

LHeat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargefryingpanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addtheleek,onion,garlic,bayleavesandpepper,thenreducetheheattomediumand

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stircontinuouslyuntiltheleekislightgolden.Transfertoabowlandsetaside.

LHeattheremainingtablespoonofoilinthepanoverhighheatuntiltheoilbeginstosmoke.Addthechickenandsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilthechickenisgoldenallover.Addthewineandstir,scrapingthebaseofthepantoremoveanycookedpieces.Reducetheheattomedium,addtheleekmixtureandcombinewell.Stirringcontinuously,addthecreammixture,thenreducetheheattolowandsimmerfor10minutes,oruntilreducedandthickened.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcool,withoutcovering.

LYouwillneedsix7.5cm(3in)diametertartlettinsora25cm(10in)tarttinwitharemovablebase.Dividethepastryinhalf,thencoveronehalfinplasticwrapandrefrigerate.Rollouttheremainingpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout4mm(1/8in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Usinga12cm(4½in)roundcutter,cutthepastryintosixrounds.Linethebaseandsideofthetinswiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetins.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellswithfoil,makingsurethesideofeachshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Pourthecooledfillingintothepieshells.

LTomakeaneggwash,puttheeggs,eggyolkandapinchofsaltinasmallbowlandwhiskwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.Removetheremainingportionofpastryfromthefridgeandrollitoutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout2mm(1/16in)thick.Usingarulerandknife,cutthepastryinto1cm(½in)widestrips,touseforthelatticetop.Brushalittleeggwasharoundtherimofthepieshell,thenusethestripstomakealatticepatternoverthetop.Cutthestripstosizebyusingyourthumbtopushthemontotheedgeofthetarttobreakofftheexcess.

LBrushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofthelattice.Placethepiesonalargebakingtrayandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Servehot,withagreenleafsaladandaglassofwine.

tip

Whencookingpiesandstews,alwaysleavetheherbsandleavesforthedurationofthecookingprocess.Ittakesalongtimeforthearomaticoilstobreakdownanddissipatethroughthesauce,especiallyifyouareusingdriedherbs.

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Tarteaujamboncruetauroquefort

(Bluecheeseandprosciuttotart)Theproblemofinvitingfriendsoverfordinnerwhenyouareapastrycheforbakeristhatyour

gueststendtohavethepreconceivedideatheyaregoingtobetakenonamagicalgastronomicaljournée,whenthefactis(andIcanonlytalkformyselfhere)theirexpectationsareboundtoexceedmyskillswhenitcomestocookinganythingsavoury.

Mysolutionissimplytosticktothebasics,usethebestandfreshestingredients,andtrytoidentifytwoflavoursthatworkperfectlytogether,suchasbluecheeseandmeat,asusedhere.Thefollowingrecipeisahomagetothisperfectcombinationofsaltyandsharpflavours,withthecheeseprovidingsubtlehintsofpepperandhazelnuts.Thisismyideaofaperfectentrée.

Serves6–8

225g(8oz)PâteBrisée

200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

200ml(7floz)full-creammilk

4eggs

½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

1teaspoongroundblackpepper

finesalt,totaste

100g(3½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

150g(5½oz)roquefortcheese,finelychopped

250g(9oz)prosciutto,finelychopped

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Asisthecaseformanytartsfilledwithaliquid,itisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascookedbecausethepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.

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LPutthecream,milk,eggsandnutmeginabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajug,thenaddthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.Whenseasoningthefillingforanysavourytart,considerthesaltcontentofyouringredientsandadjusttheamountofsaltaccordingly.

LScatterthegruyère,roquefortandprosciuttoevenlyoverthebaseofthetartshell.Placeonabakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoven,thencarefullyfilltheshelltothetopwiththeeggmixture.

LBakethetartfor40minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Cuttingthepastryaftercookingitdoeslookabitlesstidythanifyouhadcutitbeforehand,butitensuresthatnoneofthefillingseepsovertheside,whichinvariablyleadstoasoggy,rawpastrybase.Servewarm,perhapswithaglassofchilledroséandacrispgreensalad.

tip

Youcanreplacetheroquefortwithanyotherbluecheesemadeofsheep’smilk,suchasgorgonzolaorstilton.Asageneralrule,subtlemeatssuchasvealorrabbitwillworkbetterwithyounger,sweeterbluecheesesuchasgorgonzoladolce,whilegamemeatordriedmeatswillworkbetterwithdarker,olderandmorepronouncedcheesessuchasroquefortorgorgonzolapicante.

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Quichelorraine

Itwouldbedifficulttooverlookthisclassictartinthelonglistofso-called‘Frenchspecialties’andwhileitsnamesuggestsitoriginatedfromLorraine,aFrenchregioninthefarnorthofFrance,thefirstversionofaquichewascalledkuchenandwasGermaninorigin.Themethodofaddingvegetables,meatsandcondimentstoacurdmadeofeggsandcreamcookedinpastrydatesbackover500yearsandwasaverypopulartechniqueusedthroughoutAnglo-Saxongastronomy.

Thisversatileanddeliciousdishcanbeeatenforbreakfast,lunchordinner,orevenservedascanapésatacocktailparty.

Serves6–8

225g(8oz)PâteBrisée

200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

200ml(7floz)full-creammilk

4eggs

1teaspoongroundblackpepper

finesalt,totaste

250g(9oz)speckorsmokedbacon,cutinto1cm(½in)pieces

100g(3½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout5mm(¼in)thick,movingandfluffingupthedoughwithyourhandssoitdoesn’tstick.Linethetinwiththepastry,leavingalittleexcessoverhangingthesideofthetin.Unlikefillingsforsweettarts,whichareoftenfirmer,fillingsforsavourytartsareoftenrunnyandmorelikelytospillovertherimanddowntheside,especiallyasthepastrytendstoshrinkalittleduringbaking,soitisbettertotrimtheexcesspastryafterthetarthascooked.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linethepastryshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.

LPutthecream,milkandeggsinabowlandbeattogetherusingahand-heldwhisk.Strainthemixturethroughafinesieveintoajug,thenaddthepepperandseasontotastewithsalt.Whenseasoningthefillingforanyquiche,considerthesaltcontentofyouringredientsandadjusttheamountofsaltaccordingly.

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LHeatasmallfryingpanoverhighheatandaddthespeck,withoutaddinganyextrafat.Stircontinuouslyuntilgolden,thenremovewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Spreadthespeckevenlyoverthetartshell,thenscatterwiththegruyère.Placeonabakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoven,thencarefullyfilltheshelltothetopwiththeeggmixture.Fillingtartsalreadysittinginsidetheovenmeansyouwon’tneedtoprecariouslywalkaroundthekitchenbalancingaquichefullofliquidcream.

LBakethequichefor40minutes,oruntilthefillingisjustset.Removefromtheovenandimmediatelyuseasharpknifetocuttheexcesspastryfromaroundthetopofthetin.Servecoldorwarm.Thequichecanbestored,coveredinplasticwrap,inthefridgefor3–4days.

tip

Here’saneasyformulaformakingaquichewhenyoucan’tfindtherecipe:1+1+1.Thebasicrecipeconsistsof1partmilk,1partcreamand1partegg.Whateverelseyouaddisuptoyou.

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Pâteàchoux

‘Eventhesimplestofdessertsmadeusingthesmallestamountofskillwillalwaysbereceivedasthegrandestofgestures.’

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Petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)

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Pâteàchoux

(Chouxpastry)

IrememberthefirsttimeIevermadechouxpastry.IwasonlyafewweeksintomyapprenticeshipwhenIwasgiventhetaskofmakingpâteàchoux—Iwillneverforgetthatmomentofsheerpanic.NotonlydidIhavetomakethispuzzlingpastry,butIalsohadtofacethechallengingtaskofpipingitintoanarrayofdifferentshapesandsizes.EversinceIwasachild,Ihadalwayswonderedhowanyonemadethosedelicatelittlepuffs,sothinandlight,pumpedfullofair.Tometheyweremoreaboutengineeringthancookingandwhilethisisn’tquitethecase,chouxpastryisagoodillustrationofhowthechemistryofeachingredientworkstogetherinbaking,reinforcingthepointthatagoodbakerisfirstandforemostatechnician.

TheinventionofanearlyformofchouxpastryiscreditedtotheverycreativepastrychefsattheFrenchcourtofCatherinedeMediciinthesixteenthcentury,whowerealsoresponsiblefortheamaretti,theancestorofthefamousmacaron.Overtime,therecipeforchouxwasimprovedupon,andfinallycementeditsplaceinFrenchgastronomyintheearlynineteenthcenturywhenthefamouspastrychefMarie-AntoineCarêmecreatedthecroque-en-bouche(‘crunchinthemouth’),orcroquemboucheasit’salsoknown.

Unbeknowntomostamateurbakers,chouxpastryisactuallyanamazinglysimpleconcoctiontomakeathome.Itisalsoveryversatileandcanbeturnedintoawiderangeofpastries—froméclairstocroquembouche(baked),churrostodoughnuts(fried),andevensavourydishes,suchasthefamousParisiangnocchi(poached).

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Pâteàchoux

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Pâteàchoux

(Chouxpastry)Therearejustthreeeasystepswhenmakingchouxpastry:boiltheliquidswiththebutter,dryit

upwiththeflour,thenincorporatetheeggs.Itisalmostfailproof,providingyoufollowtherecipeprecisely—therealchallengeliesinthebaking.Chouxpastryrisesduetotheevaporationoftheliquidswhenexposedtothehightemperatureintheoven.Thesteamissubsequentlytrappedwithinthepuffduetothecoagulationoftheeggsearlyinthebakingprocess,andtheflour,oncecooked,willprovidethethinsupportingstructureoftheskin.Thisbatterisusedforbothsweetpastriesandsavourydishes.

Makes750g(1lb10oz)

125ml(4floz)water

125ml(4floz)full-creammilk

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

2.5g(1/16oz)finesalt

150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

3eggs,plus1extra(lightlybeaten),ifneeded

Makingthechouxpaste

Put thewater,milk, butter and salt in a saucepan (photo1)and stir overmediumheat until thebutterhasmelted.Increasetheheattohigh,thenaddtheflourallatonceandbeginstirringwithawoodenspoonuntil themixturecomestogether intoathickbutterypaste.Continuemixingfor2–3minutes,oruntilthemixturecomesawayfromthesideofthepan(2).Removefromtheheat.

Transferthemixturetothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment(3)andbeatonmediumspeeduntilcool to the touch.Reduce thespeed to lowandadd the3eggs,oneatatime (4), scraping the side of the bowl from time to time and allowing each egg to be fullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.

To check if the choux paste has the right consistency, lift the paddle attachment; if the doughstretchesabout5cm(2in)beforeitbreaks,itisready(5).Alternatively,takeasmallteaspoonofthedough;ifitstaysuprightbutcollapsesatthetip,itisready.Ifthedoughtipbreaksofforstaysinastiffpeak,youwillneedtoadd½oftheextraegg.

P ipingchoux

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Oncemade,thechouxpasteneedstobepipedstraightaway.Lightlygreaseabakingtray,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwill stick to theoilon the tray,making iteasier topipe thestickychoux.

Tomakeéclairs,fillapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle(6)andpipe10cm(4in)lengths of choux onto a lined baking tray. To pipe puffs or gougères (cheese puffs), pipe smallmoundsof themixtureonto the tray (7).For savourygougères,brushover the topswithaneggwash(8), thenusea forktomakeacrosshatchedpatternonthetop(9).Theseraisedridgeswillbrownquickly,allowingthepufftocrackevenlyduringbaking.

Cookingchoux

Inorderforthechouxtodevelopproperlyandgetthemaximumlift,itneedstobebakedinahotovenat180°C(350°F)earlyintheprocess.Neveropenthedoorduringtheinitialstagesofbaking.After the first 15minutes of baking, reduce the heat to 170°C (340°F) and cook for at least 30minutestoallowthechouxpastrytodryout.Theovendoorshouldbeleftslightlyajarafterthefirst25minutesofbaking,toridtheovenofthelargeamountofsteamcreatedwhilecooking.Ifthesteamisunabletoescape,thiswilllengthenthedryingprocess.

Chouxpastrycanbetrickytocookperfectly,soIalwaysrecommendcookingafewsamplesbeforecookingthewholemixture.

1 2

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3 4

5 6

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7 8

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9

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Chouquettes

(Pearlsugarpuffs)Chouquettesreallyareanexerciseinrestraintforanybuddingbaker,justastheyareforthe

professionalpastrychef.Theirlookcanonlybedescribedasrustic,andtheyarefilledwith…well,air,andrelyonnothingmorethantheirsweetandcrunchypearlsugarfortasteandtexture.Ifyoucan’ttrustmeastohowwonderfultheyare,thenatleastknowthatParisianswouldnotwaitinlongqueuesoutsidetheirlocalbakeryeveryweekendfortheirbagsoffreshlybakedchouquettesiftheywereanythingelsebutdeliciouslyaddictive.

Makes50

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry

200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.

LTomakeaneggwash,puttheeggsandsaltinasmallbowlandlightlybeatwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.

LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipeballsofabout3cm(1¼in)indiameteronthetrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Don’tbetemptedtomakethemanybigger—thebestpartofeatingachouquetteisfittingawholeone,oreventwo,intoyourmouth!Ifyoudon’thaveapipingbag,useatablespoonandsimplypushthemoffthespoonontothetraywithyourfingersoranotherspoon.

LBrushathinlayerofeggwashoverthepuffs,thensprinkleagenerousamountofpearlsugaroverthetop.Trytocoverthewholepuffwithasmuchsugarasyoucan,becausethechouxwilldoubleinsizeduringbaking.Removetheexcesssugarbygentlytippingeachtrayonitssidewhileholdingontothesheetofpaper.

LBakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother20minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Remembernottoopentheovendoorduringtheinitialstagesofcooking,asthepuffsneedthesteamintheoventobuildupinordertorise

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properly.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocool.Repeatwiththeremainingpastry.

tip

Pearlsugarismadefromhighlyrefinedcaster(superfine)sugarthathasbeencompactedduringthemanufacturingprocess,thencrushedandsiftedintolarge(2mm/1/16 in)crystals.Theadvantageof this sugar is that it ishighly resistant toheatandwaterand thereforedoesnotmeltduring thebakingprocess—perfectforwhenyouwanttoaddacrunchyelementtoyourbiscuitsorpastries.Pearlsugarisavailablefromspecialistfoodstores.Alternatively,youcancrushandsievesugarcubestoanalmostidenticalresult.

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Éclairsàlafraiseetàlamandarine

(Strawberryandmandarinéclairs)Formanydecades,éclairsweresimplyoneofmanyclassiccakesthatyouwouldexpecttofind

inyourlocalbakery,usuallyfilledwitheithercoffeeorchocolatecustard,ormaybefreshcream.Nowadays,however,thankslargelytotheverytalentedpastrychefChristopheAdam,éclairshaveenjoyedaresurgence,evendethroningthefamedmacaronforthetitleof‘mostpopularnew(old)must-havepâtisserie’.

Thereasonbehindtheirmassivesuccessistheirwonderfulversatility(aswasthecaseforthemacaron).Theycanbefilledwithallmannerofcreams,curdsandganache,ofanalmostinfinitecombinationofflavoursandtextures,andcanbecoatedwitheverycolourunderthesun.Feelfreetousethisrecipeasinspirationforyourownideasorflavours.

Makesabout35

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry

Custard

40g(1½oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1egg

2eggyolks

500ml(17floz)strawberrypurée(frozenorblendedfromfresh)

finelygratedzestof2mandarins

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

100g(3½oz)coldunsaltedbutter,chopped

50ml(13/4floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

Crumble

120g(4¼oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

30g(1oz)almondmeal

150g(5½oz)raw(demerara)sugar

150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

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redfoodcolouring(seetip)

Todecorate(optional)

strawberries,quartered

mandarinsegments

pistachionuts,veryfinelychopped

smallmintleaves

smalledibleflowers,suchasviolas

LTomakethecustard,putthecornflourandsugarinaheatproofbowlandstiruntilsmooth,thenaddtheeggandeggyolksandwhiskuntilsmooth.Putthestrawberrypurée,mandarinzestandthevanillabeanandseedsintoasaucepanovermediumheatandstircontinuouslyuntilthemixturecomestotheboil.Removefromtheheatandimmediatelyaddtotheeggmixtureinthebowl,whiskingvigorouslyuntilcombinedwell.Returnthecustardtothepanandwhiskoverlow–mediumheatuntilthecustardthickensandreturnstotheboil.Removefromtheheat,thenremoveanddiscardthevanillabean.

LTransferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixturefittedwithawhiskattachment.Addthebutterandbeatonlowspeedfor20minutes,oruntilthecustardiscooltotouch(about40°C/105°F).Addthecreamandbeatuntilwellcombined.Transferthecustardtoabowlandcoverthesurfacewithplasticwrap.Whenrefrigeratingawarmmixturesuchasthiscustard,makesuretheplasticwrapsitsdirectlyonthesurfacetoavoidtheformationofaskin.Setasidefor1hour,thenrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LMeanwhile,tomakethecrumble,puttheflour,almondmeal,sugarandbutterinafoodprocessorandprocessfor2–3minutes,thenaddafewdropsoffoodcolouringandprocessjustuntilthedoughcomestogether.Shapeintoadisc,coverinplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LRolloutthecolouredpastrybetweentwosheetsofbakingpaperuntil2–3mm(1/16–1/8in)thick.Removethetopsheetofpaper.Then,usingasharpparingknife,cutthedoughinto4x11cm(1½x4¼in)rectangles.Pressallthescrapstogether,re-rollandrepeattheprocessuntilyouhave35rectangles.Storethepastryflatintherefrigeratorforatleast10minutes,oruntilneeded,beforetryingtoliftitoffthebakingpaper.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwobakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.

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LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipeéclairsabout10cm(4in)longand2.5cm(1in)wide,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Carefullyplaceonechilledpastryrectangleoneachéclair,thenbakefor15minutes.Reducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother20minutes.Removefromtheoven,leavetocoolalittleonthetray,thentransfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.

LUsingthetipofaparingknifeoraskewer,maketwoholes(oneineachend)inthebaseofeachéclair.Removethecustardfromthefridgeandwhiskvigorouslyuntilsmooth.Spoonthecustardintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzleandpipethecustardintotheéclairs.Makesurethatthecustard(oranyfillingforchouxpuffs)iscoldoryouréclairswillbecomesoggyalmostimmediately.

LYoucanservetheéclairsastheyare,butIliketodecoratethemwithfruit,nutsandsmallmintleavesandedibleflowers—allheldonwithasmalldollopofleft-overcustard.Feelfreetoexperimentwithwhateveryouhaveonhand.Theéclairsmustbekeptrefrigerateduntilservingandarebesteatenthedaytheyarebaked.

tip

Allfoodcolouringsarenotthesame.Somearemuchmoreconcentratedthanothers,somearesoldasliquidsorgels,pasteorevendrypigments.Inordertocontroltheamountofcolouryouaddtoyourcakes,alwaysbindallyouringredientstogetherfirst,thenaddthesmallestamountofcolouring.Youcanthenaddmoreatanytimeduringthemixingprocess.Asarule,strongcolourstendtogiveamodernlook,whilelightercolourstendtobeassociatedwithamoresophisticatedlook.

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Chouxbeurredecacahouète-chocolataulait

(Peanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffs)ThismixtureofpeanutbutterandchocolateisatwistontheItaliangianduja,aconfectionery

madeofmilkchocolateandhazelnut,whichisalsoverypopularinFrance.

Ialwaysthoughtofpeanutbutterasalittlesickeningandthepoorcousinofpralinepaste,soittookmonthsofnegotiationsfrommyteamtoconvincemetomakeapeanutganachemacaron.Asitturnedout,anditpainsmetoadmitit,thishasbecomeoneofmyfavouriteflavourcombinations,somuchsothatIthoughtIwoulduseitforthesechouxpuffsaswell.Thisrecipecallsforapeanutandchocolatecustardratherthanastraightganache,whichwouldbetoorichfortheservingportionandtoohardoncerefrigerated.

Makesabout40

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry

200g(7oz)saltedpeanuts,finelyground

700g(1lb9oz)Custard,atroomtemperature

Peanutganache

200g(7oz)milkchocolate(40%cocoasolids),finelychopped

85g(3oz)smoothpeanutbutter

220ml(73/4floz)whippingcream(35%)

50g(13/4oz)coldunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallcubes

Todecorate(optional)

caramelcoating

toastedorcaramelisedpeanuts

shardsofdriedmeringue

chocolatebiscuitcrumbs

LTomakethepeanutganache,putthechocolateandpeanutbutterinaheatproofbowl.Put

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thecreaminasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Thisisasmallamountofliquidanditwillboiloververyquickly,sopaycloseattention.Assoonasthecreamcomestotheboil,pourhalfthecreamoverthepeanutbuttermixtureandwhiskuntilitbeginstocometogether.Atthisstage,yourganacheshouldlooklikeathickpaste.Addtheremainingcreamandgentlywhiskuntilwellcombined.Becarefulnottowhisktheganachetoomuch,asthispushesairintothemixtureandmakesithardandgrainy.Setasideuntiljustwarmtothetouch(about30°C/85°F).

LAddthebutteranduseastickblendertoblenduntilsmoothandwellcombined.Coverthesurfacewithplasticwrap,thensetasideinacoolplace,butnotinthefridge.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetaside.Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipe4cm(1½in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Brushtheeggwashalloverthepuffs,thensprinklegenerouslywiththegroundpeanuts.Removetheexcessnutsbygentlytippingeachtrayonitssidewhileholdingontothesheetofpaper.

LBakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andcookforanother20minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheoven,leavetocoolalittleonthetrays,thentransfertoawireracktocoolforatleast20minutes.

LMeanwhile,placethecustardandthecooledpeanutganachetogetherinasmallbowl.Usingastickblender,processuntilsmoothandwellcombined.Usingasmallbowlforthishelpsthepeanutcustardtostayglossyandsmoothbyreducingtheriskofanyairbubblesgettingintothemixture.

LUsingaserratedknife,cutthechouxpuffsinhalfandkeepthetopofeachpuffclosetoitsbasesotheydon’tgetmixedup.Spoonthefillingintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzleandpipeagenerousdollopofpeanutcustardintothebottomhalfofthepuff.Asyoudothis,trytopullthebaginanupwarddirectionasyoupressthemixtureout,togiveabitofheighttothecustard.Puttheotherhalfofthepuffontop.

LIfyoulike,youcancoatthetopofeachpuffwithablonde(pale)caramel,thendecoratewithsomecrushedtoastedorcaramelisedpeanuts,somesmallshardsofdriedmeringueandapinchofchocolatebiscuitcrumbs.Alternatively,youcouldsimplycoatthepuffswithmeltedchocolate,sprinklewithsomecrushedpeanutsanddecoratewithasmalledibleflower.

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tips

Whencookingalargequantityofchouxpuffs,Irecommendthatyoucookafewsamplesbeforecookingthewholemixture,soyoucanbeconfidentaboutthecookingtimes.Eachovenwillcookalittledifferently.

While youare advised to closely follow the recipeswhenbaking, I recommend that youalso addyourpersonal touch, especiallywhen it comes todecorating.

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Petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)

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Petsdenonnecitronnésàl ’anis

(Aniseandlemonnun’spuffs)Thesedeliciousbite-sizedfrittersareoneoftherareFrenchspecialtiesthatfailedtogain

widespreadpopularityoverseas,probablydueinparttotheirslightlyirreverentname(whichliterallytranslatesas‘nun’sfart’).Petsdenonnefirstappearedingastronomicliteraturearoundthesixteenthcenturyandwhiletheoriginofitsnameissteepedinfolklore,itatleastgivesusaninsightintothedubioussenseofhumouratthetime.Servetheselittlemorselsasadeliciousmid-afternoonsnackorforbreakfast,dunkedintoalargebowlofcaféaulait.

Makes100

300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1teaspoongroundstaranise

375g(13oz)ChouxPastry,restedatroomtemperaturefor1hour

finelygratedzestof2lemons

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

½teaspoonbakingpowder

vegetableoil,fordeep-frying

LPutthesugarandstaraniseinalargebowl,combinewellandsetaside.Putthechouxpastryinanotherbowl,thenaddthelemonzest,vanillabeanseeds(discardthebeans)andbakingpowderandbeatwithawoodenspoonuntilwellcombined.

LHeattheoilinadeep-fryeroradeepsaucepanuntil180°C(350°F).Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Holdthefilledpipingbaginonehandandasmallparingknifeintheotherhandand,workinginbatchesof10to15atatime,pipethemixtureintothehotoil,cuttingclosetothenozzleevery2cm(3/4in)tomakesmallballs.Duringcooking,makesurethatthetemperatureoftheoilstaysat180°C(350°F)—ifitcoolstoomuch,thepuffsmaybecomegreasy.Beawarethatthefurtheryouarefromtheoil,themorelikelyyouaretogetscaldedwhenthechouxisdroppedintothehotoil.

LUsingaflatspatula,gentlymovethepuffsaroundintheoil,constantlypushingthemdownintotheoilsotheycookevenly.Itisimportanttofrythepuffsreasonablyslowlysothattheycookallthewaythrough.

LWhentheyaregolden,removewithaslottedspoon,drainonpapertowel,thenimmediately

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tossthepuffsinthebowlwiththesugarandstaranisemixtureuntilwellcoated.Servewarmorcoolonwireracksuntilatroomtemperature.

tip

Caster(superfine)sugarflavouredwithvariousspices,teasandfragrantflowers(lavender,jasminetea,vanillabeanseeds,citruszests)canbesprinkledonmanydessertsandsweetbreads,includingthesepuffs.Pourcastersugarandtheflavouringofchoiceintoanairtightcontainer,thencoverwiththelidandshakewell.Keep thesugar inyourpantry,shaking it fromtimeto time. Ifyouareusing fragrant flowersor leaves,alwaysusedried,edibleflowers,rememberingthatalotofbeautifullyfragrantflowerscanbepoisonous,suchasfrangipanisorazaleas.

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Gougèresfourréesàlabéchamelaugruyère

(Gruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffs)Thisisthemostpopularrecipeforthesesavourychoux,oftenservedasanapéritifwithdrinks.

Thefactthattheycanbeservedplain,verymuchlikeyouwouldachouquette,orfilledwithanymannerofcreamsandsauces,makesthemanincrediblyversatileamuse-bouche,perfectforanyoccasion,fromthemostformalweddingfunctiontoacasualfamilypicnic.

Thesebéchamel-filledgougèresarethemostpopularandclassicallyFrenchversionbut,ofcourse,feelfreetoaddyourownpersonaltouchesbyswappingnutmegforcardamomordriedherbs,oraddingmushroomscookedwithgarlicandparsleytothebéchamel.

Makesabout40

2eggs

pinchofsalt

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry

200g(7oz)gruyèrecheese,finelygrated

Gruyèrebéchamel

1litre(35floz)full-creammilk

120g(4¼oz)unsaltedbutter

80g(23/4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

100g(3½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

½teaspoongroundnutmeg

½teaspoongroundblackpepper

finesalt,totaste

LTomakethegruyèrebéchamel,putthemilkinasaucepanoverhighheatandbringtoasimmer.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.Putthebutterinamediumheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoverlowheatuntilmelted.Addtheflourandbeginstirringwithawoodenspoonuntilthemixturebeginstothicken.Thisbutterandflourpasteiscalledarouxandisusedtothickensauces,stocksorsoups.Cooktherouxfor2minutes,stirringcontinuouslyandneverallowingittobrown.Swapthespoonforawhisk,then,whiskingcontinuously,addhalfthehotmilk,alittleatatimeandwaitingforeachadditiontobefullyincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext.Increasetheheattomediumandcontinueaddingtheremainingmilk,alittleatatime.

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LBringtotheboil,thenremovefromtheheatandcontinuewhiskingforanotherminute.Addthe100g(3½oz)gruyère,thenutmeg,pepper,andsalttotaste,andcombinewell.Pourthebéchamelsauceintoashallowcontainer,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinformingandrefrigeratefor1hour.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Lightlygreasetwolargebakingtrays,thenlinewithbakingpaper.Thepaperwillsticktotheoilonthetrays,makingitmucheasierforyoutopipethestickychouxpaste.Tomakeaneggwash,puttheeggsandapinchofsaltinasmallbowlandlightlybeatwithaforkuntilwellcombined,thensetaside.

LSpoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Pipe4cm(1½in)roundsontothelinedtrays,spacingthemabout5cm(2in)apart.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofeachround,thenuseaforktomakeacrosshatchedpatternonthetopofeachone(seephoto).Sprinklethefinelygratedgruyèreoverthetop.Bakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F)andbakeforanother25minutes.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolforatleast20minutes.Usingthetipofaparingknifeoraskewer,makeasmallholeinthebottomofeachpuff.

LWhenyouarereadytoserve,useanelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachmenttowhiskthecoldbéchamelonlowspeeduntilsmooth.Spoonthebéchamelintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzleandfilleachpuffwiththebéchamel.Gougèresarebesteatenthedaytheyaremade,althoughunfilledpuffscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerforafewhoursuntilyouarereadytofillthem.

Béchamelisusuallyreferredtoas‘whitesauce’inEnglish.Theinherentcharacteristicsofthissauce,withitsbeautifulcreamytextureandrelativelyneutralflavour,havemadeitapopularingredientinmanydishes,includingGreekmoussakaandItaliancannelloniandlasagne.

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Gnocchiaupistouetauxpalourdes

(Clamandpestognocchi)Parisiangnocchi,whicharemadefromchouxpastry,arequitedifferentfromthemorepopular

Mediterraneanpotatognocchi,butthey’rejustasversatileandeveneasiertomake.

WhenIwasanapprentice,Parisiangnocchiwasmyboss’sideaofanup-marketstaffmeal.Simplyboiltheleft-overchouxpastry,softencoldbéchamelleftoverswithmilk,thenaddafewmushroomsandeverybodywins.By‘everybody’Imeanmostlymyboss,becausethatversionwasaslightandrefinedasa1970smayonnaise-ladenprawncocktail!Forthisrecipe,Iamsuggestingalighter,healthierProvençalalternativebyswappingtheheavybéchamelforazingyclamandbasilsauce.Thisisdeliciousservedasahotdishforwinterorasasummerycoldentréeforarelaxedlunchinthesun.

Serves6

750g(1lb10oz)ChouxPastry,restedforatleast1hourinthefridge

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil,plusextra,fordrizzling

1onion,finelychopped

1garlicclove,finelychopped

80g(23/4oz)thyme(about½bunch),leavespicked

200ml(7floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

400ml(14floz)drywhitewine

1.25kg(2lb12oz)clams(vongole),soakedincoldwaterfor1hourtodisgorgeanysand

40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter

juiceof1lemon

Pesto

120g(4¼oz)basil(1largebunch),leavespicked

4garliccloves,peeled

50g(13/4oz)parmesancheese,finelygrated

30g(1oz)pinenuts,toasted

200ml(7floz)extravirginoliveoil,refrigerateduntilcold

saltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

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LTomakethepesto,putthebasil,garlic,parmesan,pinenutsandhalfoftheoliveoilinafoodprocessorandprocessfor30seconds,beforedrizzlingintheremainingoil.Processjustuntilsmooth,thenseasontotastewithsaltandpepper(seetips).Transferthepestotoasmallbowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwrapandrefrigerate.

LFillamediumsaucepantwo-thirdsfullofwaterandbringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducethetemperaturetolow–mediumtomaintainagentlesimmer.Spoonthechouxpastryintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Placethefilledpipingbaginonehandandasmallparingknifeintheotherand,workinginbatches,pipethemixtureintothesimmeringwater,cuttingclosetothenozzleevery3cm(1¼in)tomakesmallgnocchi.Assoonasthegnocchirisetothetop,removewithaslottedspoon,drainwellandplaceinabowl.Drizzlethegnocchiwithalittleoliveoil.Repeatwiththeremainingmixture.

LHeat1tablespoonoftheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonion,garlicandthymeandcook,stirring,for5minutes,oruntiltheonionsaredarkgolden.Addthecreamandwineandsimmerfor5minutes,thenaddtheclams,coverandcookforanother5minutes,oruntilalltheshellshaveopened.Turnofftheheatandcoverthepan.

LHeattheremainingtablespoonofoliveoilandthebutterinanotherlargefryingpanoverhighheat.Whenitbeginssmoking,addthecoldgnocchiandcook,tossingthepancontinuously,untilthegnocchiaregolden.Addtheclamsandcreamsauce,reducetheheattomedium,thenaddthelemonjuiceandseasontotaste.Shakethepanwithbothhandsuntileverythingiswellcombined.Removefromtheheatandsetasidefor2minuteswiththelidon.Dividethegnocchiandclamsamongservingplatesandaddafewtablespoonsofpestorandomlyoverthetop.Servehotwithagreensaladandaglassofrosé.

tips

Whenmaking pesto in a food processor, be careful not to overprocess it. Themachine can heat up themixture and causes rapid oxidation of thechlorophyllinthebasilleaves,turningtheirvibrantcolourintoadarkolivegreenmess.Ifthepestostartstofeeltepidtothetouch,stopblendingandrefrigerateforabout10minutesbeforeresuming.

Youcanflavouryourgnocchibyaddingfinelychoppedbasilleaves,thymeorpepperduringthefinalstageofmixingthechouxdough.Thiswillgivenotonlyanadditionaltouchofflavourbutalsoatingeofcolourtothedish.

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Patefeuilletée

‘T hefineartsarefiveinnumber,namely:painting,sculpture,poetry,musicandarchitecture,theprincipalbranchofthelatterbeingpâtisserie.’

MARIE-ANTOINECARÊME

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Palmiersauxnoisettes(Hazelnutpalmiers)

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Pâtefeuilletée

(Puffpastry)

Thepuffpastrywearefamiliarwithtodayisthoughttobeanadaptationoffilopastry,wherelayersofthin,unleavenedbuttereddoughwerestackedtomakedessertssuchasbaklavaandstrudel.Theactualprocessoffoldingadougharoundablockofbuttertoachievethoseimpossiblythinandflakylayersiscreditedtoaseventeenth-centurypainterandpastrychefnamedClaudeGellée.Sincethen,puffpastryhasinfusedeverycornerofFrenchgastronomy,andinmyriadforms:sweet,savoury,coated,filled,twisted—it’sthemostversatiledoughofall.Asanaddedbonus,pâtefeuilletéefreezesverywellraw,aprivilegenotaffordedbyanyyeasteddoughs.

Alongwiththedoughforcroissant,puffpastryisoftenconsideredoneofthetrickiestdoughstomaster,butIhaveactuallyalwaysfoundittheleasttechnicallychallengingofallbakers’doughs.Itconsistsofwrappingabasemixtureofplainflour,saltandwater(sometimeswiththeadditionofmeltedbutter)aroundablockofbutter.Whatitdoesrequire,however,istimeandalotofelbowgreasetoachievethoseamazinglythinandbutterylayerssotypicalofpuffpastry.Thedoughneedstobefoldedandlaminatedseveraltimes(turned),justasyouwouldacroissantdough,exceptyouhavetodothisforalmostdoublethenumberoftimes.UnlikethedoughforacroissantorDanish,whichhasapropensitytobeginprovingatroomtemperature(duetoitsyeastcontent)andisusuallyasofter,morefragiledough,puffpastryismadeofadryandstiffbatterthatdoesnotstickorbreakeasilyduringthelaminatingprocess.Thisisproviding,ofcourse,thatyouworkpatiently,allowingtimebetweeneach‘turn’fortheglutentorelax.

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Pâtefeuilletée

(Puffpastry)Therearethreedifferentmethodsofmakingpuffpastry:

Traditionalpuff:ThisisthemethodIuseinthisbook.Thepastryismadefromastiffwater-and-flourdough(calleddétrempe)wrappedoveralayerofbutter.Itrequiresfiveorsixsingleturns(aseriesofrolling,foldingandturningthedough)andabitofpatience,butitwilltakejustaslongtofinishastheothertwomethods.Thismethodwillgiveyoubeautifullythinandregularlayersthroughoutyourpastrythatwillriseevenlyduringthebakingprocess.

F lakypuff(roughpuff):Thisisasupposedlyquickerversionofthetraditionalpuffpastry,althoughyoustillhavetoturnthedoughasyouwouldwhenmakingatraditionalpuff.Thistypeofpuffisusedtomakepieandquichebaseswheretheconsistencyofthelayersisnotreallycriticaltothelookofthefinishedproduct.Tospeedtheprocessupalittle,thepastrycanbemadewiththreeturnsinsteadoffive.Forthismethod,youactuallymixthebutterwiththedoughrightattheendoftheprocess,beforelaminating.

Invertedpuff:Thismethodiscalledinvertedbecauseitrequiresthebuttertobewrappedaroundthedough,theexactoppositetothetraditionalmethod.Onceturned,thiswillgiveyoumore(butthinner)layersofbutterandamorerefinedtexture.Inmyopinion,theaddeddifficultiesofrollingthebutterdirectly(whichcanbedifficultwhenthebutterstartstomeltandsticktotheworksurface)insteadofrollingthedougharefaroutweighedbytheperceivedbenefits,especiallyforanamateurbaker.

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Pâtefeuilletée

(Traditionalpuffpastry)Thefollowingmethodisforapuffpastrymadeusingthetraditionalmethod,withfivesingle

turns(notethatafewoftherecipesinthischapterrequiresixturns).Beforestarting,it’simportanttoreadthroughtheinstructionsseveraltimestofamiliariseyourselfwiththeprocess.

Makesabout1kg(2lb4oz)

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

10g(¼oz)finesalt

50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

250ml(9floz)coldwater

250g(9oz)blockcoldunsaltedbutter

Howtomixthedoughandpreparethebutter

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,mixtheflourandsaltonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Addthemeltedbutterandcoldwaterandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilsmooth.Thetimeittakesforthedoughto(détrempe)becomesmoothwillvarydependingonthesizeof yourbowl and the speedof themixer, however you shouldnever overmix a puff pastrydoughbecausethiswilldevelopthegluten,makingthedoughelasticandveryhardtoroll.Shapethedoughintoaball(photo1),coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

Whenthedoughiscold,youwillneedtopreparethebutterforthelaminatingprocess.Placetheblockofcoldbutteronapieceofbakingpaper.Coverwithanotherpieceofbakingpaperandusearollingpintopoundthebutter,turningitregularlyby90degrees,intoarectanglethatmeasuresabout18x20cm(7x8in).Coverthebutterwithplasticwrapandsetaside.

Thelaminatingprocess

Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanddustthetopwithflour.Usingtherollingpin,rollthedoughstartingfromthemiddleandworkingouttowardstheedges(2),toforma16x30cm(6¼x12in)rectangle.Keepmovingthedoughanddustingwithalittleextraflourtostopitsticking—butbefrugalwiththeflour.Ifyoucan’trolloutyourdoughtotheexactdimensions,useyourhandstostretchitintoshape(3,4).Unwrapthebutterandplaceit inthecentreofthedoughrectangle(5).Foldbothendsofthedoughoverthetopsotheymeetinthemiddleofthe

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butterandpinchtheendstogether(6).Youshouldendupwitha16x15cm(6¼x6in)rectangle,withthebutterexposedattwoendsandatightlysealedseamoverthetop.

Withoneshortendfacingyou,beginrollingthedoughfromthemiddletothetop(7,8),flouringas needed. Rotate the block 180 degrees and repeat the process until you have a rectangle thatmeasuresabout20x65cm(8x25½in).Foldone-thirdoftherectangleoverintothemiddleoftheblock(9),thenfoldtheotherendoverthetop(10).Thiswillgiveyouasingleturn.

Repeat this process oncemore to get the first two single turns.During theprocess of ‘turning’,makesurethatyoumaintainyouroriginalrectangularshapeeitherbyrollingthedough(11) orstretchingitintoshape,asthisensuresanevendistributionofbutterthroughoutthedough.

Coverthepastryblock(pâton)inplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast3hours.Whenthepastryiscoldandrested,repeattheprocessbygivingthedoughanothertwosingleturns,thenrefrigerateforanother2hours.Finally,turnitoncemore—thisisthelastoffivesingleturns(notethatsomerecipes require six single turns, so add the extra turn at this point, if required).You’ve done it!Refrigerateovernight.

1 2

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3 4

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5

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6 7

8 9

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10 11

freezingpuffpastry:

LBynowyouprobablybetterunderstandwhatImeantaboutneedingpatienceandelbowgreasetomakethisdough,butthereisgoodnews!Puffpastrydoughfreezesverywell,soIsuggestyoumakethewholebatchevenifthereciperequiresonlyhalf,andfreezetheleftoverforlater(itwillfreezefor1–2months).However,youwillneedtomakesomeminoradjustments.

AsIhavementionedbefore,wheatflourcontainsaproteincalledgluten(responsibleforthedough’selasticity),which,alongwiththecoagulationofthestarches,trapsthesteamcreatedduringthebakingprocess,underpinningitsabilitytodevelopwhilebaking.Unfortunatelyflouralsocontainsanantioxidantcalledglutathione,whichweakenstheglutenovertime(denaturationprocess),reducingthedough’sabilitytoretainitselasticity.

Toslowdownthedenaturationprocessandextendthelifespanofanydough(ifyouaregoingtofreezeitoruseitafewdayslater),addasmallamountofvitaminC(ascorbicacid)—thesamevitaminCsoldinhealthfoodstores.Simplydissolvea500mgtabletinthewaterforyourdoughandpreparethedoughintheusualway.TheadditionofvitaminCwillalsostoptheflourfromoxidisinganddevelopingbrownspots.

Ascorbicacidisoneofthemainingredientsinmanypowdered‘breadimprovers’usedbyprofessionalbakers,andwhileotherantioxidantssuchasvinegar(aceticacid)orcitricacid(foundinlemonjuice)doslowdowntheoxidationprocess,theydonotslowthedenaturationprocessofthegluten.

Insummary:Ifyouaregoingtofreezeyourdoughorkeepitrefrigeratedtouseatalaterstage,dissolveone500mgvitaminCtabletintothewaterforyourdough(0.1percentoftheweightofflour).Remembertoallowtimeforthefrozenpastrytodefrostbeforebaking.

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Allumettesglacées

(Icedpuffpastryfingers)Makeabatchoftheseelegantbite-sizedtreatsforafternoonteaoryournextcocktailparty.Use

someleft-overpuffpastryfromthefreezer,rollitout,thenspreadsomeglaceroyaleoverthetopofthemandwhatyouwillendupwithisasimplebutstunning,lightandairypastry,deliciouswithacupofteaoraglassofwineorChampagne.Moreimportantly,withtheirsmooth,shinyfinishandlongdelicateshape,theywillmakeanotherwiseroutinegatheringwithfriendsseemlikequiteasophisticatedaffair(notguaranteedbythisauthor).

Makes40

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

Royalicing

1eggwhite

250g(9oz)pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,sifted

squeezeoflemonjuice

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2.5mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout18x40cm(7x16in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.Placetherolled-outdough(abaisse)onatraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomaketheroyalicing,puttheeggwhiteandalittleicingsugarinasmallbowlandmixwithaspatulauntilthesugarhasdissolved(seetip).Graduallystirintherestoftheicingsugaruntilafirmpasteforms.Add½teaspoonlemonjuiceandstirvigorouslyforabout3minutes,oruntilsmoothandglossy.Tochecktheconsistencyofyouricing,liftthespatulafromthemixtureandlookforasoftpeak.Iftheicingistoofirm,addafewmoredropsoflemonjuice(conversely,ifit’stoosoft,addmoreicingsugar).Coverthebowlwithadampclothandsetasideatroomtemperature.

LRemovethepastryonthetrayfromthefridge.Usingaflatspatula,spreada1mm(1/32in)thinlayerofroyalicingoverthetop,takingcarethattheicingisspreadevenlyalloverthesurface.Youmaynotneedthewholeamountoficing.Placethepastryinthefreezerfor30

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minutes.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Transferthefrozenpastrytoacuttingboard.Usingalargeknife,cutthepastryinto2x9cm(3/4x3½in)rectangles.Toensureneatedges,diptheknifeinhotwaterbeforecuttingthepastrysotheicingdoesn’tsticktotheknife,wipetheknifeclean,thenrepeattheprocess.

LPlaceonthelinedtraysandbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebasesofthepastriesaregolden.Ifyounoticethatthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Leavetocoolalittleonthetraysbeforetransferringtoawireracktocoolfor30minutesbeforeserving.

tip

Royal icing is traditionallyusedtopipe intricatedecorationsonweddingorChristmascakesandgingerbreadhouses.Toget thebestresultsalwaysfollowtheserules:

LNeverwhiskthemixture.Anyairpushedintothemixwillmakeitverybrittleanddifficulttopipe,soalwaysuseaflatspatulaandabitof

elbowgrease.

LThelemonjuicehelpstobindthealbumencells(eggprotein)together.Thisimprovestheelasticityoftheicing,butalsoenablesyoutowork

withasoftermixturethatwillsetquicklyandneatly.Alternatively,youcanreplacethelemonjuicewithcreamoftartarorvinegar(aceticacid).

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Palmiersauxnoisettes

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Palmiersauxnoisettes

(Hazelnutpalmiers)Itwasn’tuntilIbeganworkinginabakerythatIactuallytriedoneofthesesimple,heart-shaped

pastries.Comparedtoalltheotherbrightlycoloured,decadent-lookingalternativesthatlinedtheshelvesofpâtisseries,Ithoughttheylookedalittlesadandboring.Ifinallyrelentedandtriedoneandwassosurprisedtofindhowclevertheyactuallywere—lightandsubtlyflavouredandfilledwithlayersofcrystallisedsugar.Nowadays,palmierscomeinallmannerofsizesandflavours,fromthetraditionalsugaredonestothosefilledwithjam,andevensomesavouryversions.

ForthisrecipeI’veusedafillingofsoftchocolateandhazelnutspread,sprinkledwithroastedhazelnuts,whichnotonlybringsanadditionallayeroftexturebutalsogivesthepastriesaslightlymorerusticedge.Ifyoudon’twanttomakeyourownhazelnutspread,thenbuyagood-qualitypralineorhazelnutpasteandnotthemorereadilyavailableversionsthatarehighinsugarandfat,asthesedon’tholdupaswellduringbaking.

Makesabout25

note:Youwillneedtogiveanadditionalsingleturntothepuffpastry,torefinethelayersofpastryandtostop

thepalmierfromexpandingexcessivelyduringthebakingprocess.

150g(5¼oz)rawhazelnuts,roastedandskinned(seetip)

1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,6singleturns

300g(10¼oz)HazelnutandChocolateSpread

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Wraptheskinnedhazelnutsinacleancloth,thensmashthenutsintheclothwiththebaseofaheavy-basedsaucepanuntilcoarselycrushed.Setthenutsaside.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa4mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuring40x50cm(16x20in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LUsingaflatspatula,spreadthehazelnutandchocolatepasteevenlyoverthepastry,righttotheedges,thensprinklewiththecrushedhazelnuts.Don’tbetemptedtoapplyathickerlayer;thepalmierismadeoffourlayersofpastry,soifthehazelnutspreadistoothickthedoughwon’tcookproperly,andthere’snothingworsethanundercookedpuffpastry!Withonelongsideof

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therolled-outdough(abaisse)facingyou,useyourhandstorollthetwolongsidesofthepastrytowardseachothertomeetinthemiddle.Foldthebottomhalfoverthetoptoformalog.Ifthepastryistoosofttohandle,refrigerateitfor30minutes,oruntilfirm.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Usingalargeknife,cuttherollinto2cm(3/4in)thickslicesandplaceonthelinedtrays,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneachastheyaregoingtodoubleinsizeduringcooking.Asyouwillneedtocookthepalmiersinbatches,itisagoodideatorefrigeratetheremainingpastrieswhilethefirstbatchiscooking.

LBakefor10minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F)andbakeforanother30minutes,oruntilthebottomofthepastriesaregoldenbrown.Puffpastryneedsaninitialburstofheattodevelop,butthemajorityofthecookingtimeisdesignedtodryitupasmuchaspossible.Ifthetopsdarkentoofast,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Repeatwiththeremainingpastries.Transfertoawireracktocoolfor1hourbeforeserving.

roastingandskinninghazelnuts

Preheat theoven to200°C(400°F).Put thehazelnutsonabaking trayandroast for10–15minutes,oruntil theybegin to turndarkbrown.Useaspatulatomovethenutsaroundevery5minutesorso.Everyovencooksdifferently,sokeepaneyeonthem,especiallytowardstheendofcooking.Removefromtheovenandwhencoolenoughtohandle,rollthehazelnutsaroundinyourhandstorubofftheskins.

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Feuilletésricotta-figue

(Ricottaandfigpastries)Feuilletéisageneraltermusedtodescribesweetorsavourypastriesmadefrompuffpastry.It

usuallyreferstoasimplesquareofpastrytoppedwithafruit,creamorwhateverelseticklesyourfancyandisagreatwaytouseupyouroffcuts—simplyrolloutthedough,cutittoshapeandfreezeforlateruse.Thisisagreatexampleofthefactthat,moreoftenthannot,thebestpastriesareoftentheresultofrestraintandsimplicity.

Makes18

400g(14oz)freshricottacheese,drainedwell

200g(7oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

finelygratedzestof1lemon

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar,plusextra,forsprinkling

3vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

200g(7oz)honey,preferablylavender

9ripefigs,halvedlengthways

2eggs

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

LPutthericotta,yoghurt,lemonzest,sugar,vanillabeanseedsand2tablespoonsofthehoneyinafoodprocessorandprocessfor1minute,oruntilsmooth.Transfertoabowl,coverandrefrigerate.Sprinklethefigsgenerouslywiththeextrasugarandsetaside.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolkandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetaside.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa3mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout25x35cm(10x14in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

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LUsingalargeknife,cutthepastryintoeighteen6x8cm(2½x3¼in)rectangles.Trynottoruntheknifethroughthedoughwhenyoucuttheshapes,asthisdamagesthefragilelayersofpastry.Instead,pushthetipoftheknifethroughthedoughfirst,thenletthekniferolldown,followingthecurvatureoftheblade.Usingaflatspatula,carefullyplacethepastriesonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout4cm(1½in)apart.

LPut1tablespoonofthericottamixtureinthecentreofeachrectangle,leavingasmuchexposedpastryaspossiblearoundthesides.Gentlypushafighalfintothericottamixture,placingthemcutsideup.Carefullybrushtheexposedpuffpastrywiththeeggwash.Whenbrushingeggwashoverpuffpastry,trynottodripanyoftheeggmixtureoverthesides,becausethiswillmakeitharderforthepastrytoriseevenly.Drizzle1teaspoonhoneyoverthefigsoneachpastry.

LBakefor20minutes,oruntilthepastryhasrisenandisgolden.Thecookingtimeswillvaryalittledependingonyouroven,soalwayscheckthatthebottomofthepastriesaregoldenbeforeremovingthemfromtheoven.Serveatroomtemperaturewithacupofcoffee,orwarmwiththick(double/heavy)creamoryoghurt.

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DouillonsdepommesauCalvadosetgoussedevanille

(BakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabean)IwaseightyearsoldwhenmyfamilymovedfromNicetoPetit-Couronne,asmalltowninthe

Normandyregion.Normandyisamostlyagriculturalarea,dottedwithappleorchardsandlushgreendairyandcattlepastures,somuchoftheproduceisveryrichandearthy,withlotsofcreams,buttersandheartystews.AlthoughIhadalreadytravelledwithmyfamilyaroundmostofEasternandCentralEurope,samplingexoticfoodsandspecialtiesfarremovedfromwhatIwasaccustomedto,itwasnotuntilwemovedtoNormandythatIbegantorealisehowdiversethefoodwaswithinmyowncountry,andjusthowmuchourfoodandrecipesareshapedbyandintimatelyconnectedtosomanythings—ourlocallandscape,theweather,ourhistoryandtraditions.

ItwasinNormandythatItriedmyfirstdouillondepommes,abeautifullysweetandflakyapplepie,packedfullofcaramelandbutter.ItwasalsothefirsttimeIdrankrawmilkstraightfromthefarm,ateatartetatin—andthecheeses…!Thesedisheswereallmadefromlocalandseasonalingredients,perfectlydesignedtokeepyouwarmduringthoselongwinternights,thelikesofwhichI’dneverexperiencedbefore.

Serves6

1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

finelygratedzestandjuiceof2oranges

100ml(3½floz)Calvados

6smallapples(reinetteorreddelicious)

100g(3½oz)softunsaltedbutter

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2eggs

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

3vanillabeans

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2.5mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout40x70cm(16x27½in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Usinga9cm(3½in)roundcutter,stampoutsixroundsforthebases,thenusea20cm(8in)roundcuttertostampoutsixroundsforthetops.Don’tbetemptedtodividethepastryinhalfbeforeyoudothis,becauseyouwillneedmorepastryforthetopsthanthebases.Dusteachroundwithalittleflour,

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thenplaceonatraylinedwithbakingpaper.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.

LMeanwhile,puttheorangezest,orangejuiceand50ml(13/4floz)ofCalvadosinalargebowlandsetaside.Peeltheapplesandcorethemwithanapplecorerorasharpparingknife,thenplaceinthebowlwiththeorangejuicemixture.Turntheapplesinthemixturetomakesuretheyarecoatedintheliquid,tostopthemoxidising.Setaside,turningtheapplesaroundinthebowloccasionally.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutterandtheremainingCalvadosuntilcombined.Ifthemixturelookssplit,heatthebowlalittleoverahotflameorruntheoutsideofthebowlunderveryhotwater,thenbeatagainuntilwellcombined.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F).Linealargebakingtraywithbakingpaper.Placeoneofthepastrybases(thesmallerrounds)onthelinedtray,leavingtherestinthefridge.Drainoneappleandpatdry,thenfillthehollowed-outcorewithagenerousamountofCalvadosbutter.Placeateaspoonofthebutterontopandsprinklegenerouslywithsugar.Removeoneofthepastrytops(thelargerrounds)fromthefridgeandusea1cm(½in)roundpastrycutteroraparingknifetocutoutasmallholeinthemiddle.Placethepastryovertheappleandfoldthepastryaroundit,tryingnottocreatetoomanyoverlapsofpastrytowardsthebottom.Usingasharpknifeorapairofscissors,cutofftheexcesspastryaroundthebottom.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggs,eggyolkandsaltinasmallbowl.Brushalittleeggwashoverthepastrybase,thensittheappleinthemiddleofthebase.Pressdownfirmlytojointhetopandbasetogether,thenbrushalloverwitheggwash.Usingthebackofaparingknife,scoreageometricdesignoverthepastry,beingcarefulnottocutallthewaythrough.Tofinish,cutthevanillabeansinhalfandpushahalfthroughtheholeinthetop,toresembleanapplestem.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingapplesandpastryrounds.

LPlacethedouillonsintheovenandbakefor20minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F)andbakeforanother45minutes,oruntilgolden.Ifyoufindyourpastryisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil.Removefromtheovenandservehotwithmascarponeorthick(double/heavy)cream.

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P ithiviers

(Frangipanepie)Forthispie,wewilltravelnorthtothemunicipalityofPithiviersintheLoireValleyregion.This

verytraditionalpie,bakedfortheEpiphanyonthesixthofJanuary,isalsocalled‘kings’cake’orgalettedesrois,referringtolesroismages,orthethreewisemen(kings).Thegaletteismadeofpuffpastryandfrangipane,amoistalmondcream,andalwayscontainsasmallceramicfigurecalledafève(meaningbroadbean,asthisiswhatwasoriginallyused).Theideaisthatthepersonwhofindsthefèveisthencrownedkingorqueenfortheday.IhaveneverforgottenthatwonderfulsenseofanticipationIfeltasachild,justbeforewecutthecake,hopingitwouldbemewhofoundthefève.

Awordofwarning:ifyouarebakingthispieforaFrenchperson,neverforgetthefèveandapapercrown,orthesmallchildinsideyourguestwillbeshattered!

Serves8

1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

1egg

pinchoffinesalt

Frangipane

200g(7oz)AlmondCream

100g(3½oz)Custard

fewdropsofalmondessence,totaste

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Usingacaketinordinnerplateasaguide,cutouta25cm(10in)circleforthebaseandaslightlylarger26cm(10½in)circleforthetop.Placethepastryroundsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaperandfreezefor15minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomakethefrangipane,useahand-heldwhisktobeatthealmondcreamandcustardtogetheruntilsmooth,thenaddthealmondessenceandcombinewell.Befrugalwithyouralmondessence,asitcanoverpowerthemainflavourofyourdish.

LPreheattheovento185°C(365°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggandsalt

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togetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.Removethepastryfromthefreezerandspreadthefrangipanemixtureontothesmallercircle,leavinga3cm(1¼in)borderaroundtheedge.Gentlypushthefèveintothefrangipane.Lightlybrusharoundtheedgewitheggwash,thenplacethelargerpastrycircleoverthetopandgentlypressaroundtheedgetoseal.Brushthetopwitheggwash,takingcarenottodripanyoftheeggmixtureovertheside,becausethiswillmakeitharderforthepastrytoriseevenly.Usingthebackofaparingknife,scorecurvedlinesonthetop,radiatingfromthecentretotheoutsideedge.

LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor40minutes,oruntilthebaseofthepieisgolden.Puffpastryneedstobecookedatarelativelyhightemperatureforalongtimetogetthebestheightandflakiness.Ifyoufindthetopisbrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebaking.Transfertoawireracktocoolandserveatroomtemperature,withacrownfortheluckyfinderofthefève.

Frangipaneoralmondcream?Thesecreamsareoftenconfusedor,atleast,almondcreamisoftenerroneouslycalledfrangipane.Whiletheybothusesimilaringredients,theirtextureandtasteareverydifferent.Almondcreamismadeofalmonds,butter,sugarandeggs,sometimeswithflourorcustardaddedtoit.Itcontainsaproportionallylargeamountofdryingredientsandisusedasabasecreamforallkindsoffruittarts.Frangipane,ontheotherhand,useslessdryingredientsandalwaysincludesbitteralmondsoralmondessenceforflavourandfragrance.Frangipaneisusedasafillingandresemblesadensecustard.

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Batonsgruyère-parmesan

(Cheesesticks)AtypicalFrenchbreakfastusuallyconsistsofacroissantoratoastedbaguettetartinewithjam,

orsomeothersweetpastry—I,forone,wouldneverthinktoeatanythingsavourysuchasthesecheesesticks,insteadreservingthemforanapéritiforafternoonsnack,maybewithafewgreenolivesandaglassofredwine.InAustralia,however,theyhavebecomeverypopularasaquicksnackforbreakfast.IrememberhowIusedtoshakemyheadinbewildermentasIwatchedcustomerswalkingoutoftheshopearlyinthemorningwithafewcheesesticksinonehandandacoffeeintheother.Itdidn’ttakemelongtochangemymind.Now,Iamoftencaughtearlyinthemorning,scavengingallthebrokencheesesticksandnibblingontheburntgruyèreleftoveronthebakingtrays.

Makes15

300g(10½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

80g(23/4oz)parmesancheese,grated

3eggs

pinchoffinesalt

1kg(2lb4oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

2teaspoonsfinelygroundblackpepper

LCombinethegruyèreandparmesaninasmallbowlandputinthefreezerfor1hour.Whenthecheesehasfrozen,placeonachoppingboardandchopintothesmallestpiecespossible,thenreturntothefreezer.

LMeanwhile,tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsaltinasmallbowlandsetaside.Preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa3mm(1/8in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout20x60cm(8x24in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Towardstheendofrolling,feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthepastryintoshape.

LBrushasmallamountofeggwashoverthetopofthepastry,thensprinkleagenerousamountofthechoppedcheeseevenlyoverthetop,goingallthewaytotheedges.Usingarollingpin,gentlyrolloverthetopofthecheesetomakesureitstickstothedoughduringthetwisting

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process.Sprinklethepepperevenlyoverthetopofthecheese.

LWithonelongsideofthepastryfacingyou,andusingalargeknife,cutthepastryintofifteen4cm(1½in)widestrips.Takeonestripandplaceitontheworksurface,cheesesidedownandwiththelongsidefacingyou.Usingyourpalms,gentlyrolloneendofthestripinadownwardsdirectionwhilerollingtheotherendinanupwardsdirection.Lengthenthetwisttoabout20cm(8in)byrollingitwithbothyourhands,workingfromthemiddleout.Placeonthelinedtrays,spacingthemabout4cm(1½in)apart.

LBakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor20minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F)andcookforanother15minutes,oruntildry.Itisessentialthatthecheesesticksarecrispandflakysomakesuretheyarecookedthrough.Ifyoufindtheyarebrowningtooquickly,placeapieceoffoillooselyoverthetopandcontinuebakinguntilcrisp.Removefromtheovenandcoolonawirerackforatleast30minutesbeforeserving.Thesecheesesticks,aswellasmostpastriesmadefrompuff,freezeverywellpriortobeingbaked,somakemorethanyouneedandfreezetheresttouseanothertime.

tip

Gruyèreistheperfectcheesetouseincheesesticksbecauseithasamildflavourwithjusttherightamountofsalt,itaddsahintofsweetnessand,moreimportantly, it stays relativelydryduringbaking.Theonlyothercheesesuitable forcheesesticks ischeddar.Neverusea softpizzacheese, suchasprovoloneormozzarella,becausetheyaretoosoftwhenmeltedandwillstopthepuffpastryfromdryingoutproperly.

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Rouladesàlatapenadeetauhaloumi

(Olivetapenadeandhaloumiswirls)OlivetapenadehasbeenusedinProvençalcookingforover2000years,probablybecausethe

olivetreewasoneofthefewtreesresilientenoughtosurvivetheharshclimaticconditionsofthearea.Oliveshavebeencultivatedformillenniaandusedinallmannerofproducts,fromoliveoilsandpickles,tohairconditionersandherbalmedicines.IhavelovedeatingolivessinceIwasachild,butitwasn’tuntilIstartedworkinginaMichelin-starredrestaurantinMarseille(whichfeaturedolivesandtapenadesinmanyofitsfinedishes)thatIrealisedhowversatiletheytrulywereandhow,withalittlebitofimagination,theycouldbeusedinalmostanycapacity,fromcondimentsformeatsandfish,tospreadsforbreadsandcrackers,andevendesserts.

Theserouladesaremadewithagreenolivetapenade—anamederivedfromtheProvençalwordforcapers,tapenas—whichismadebycrushingolives,capersandanchovieswitholiveoil.Thismiraculousconcoctioncanbestoredalmostindefinitelyinyourfridge,andusedontoast,spreadoveragrilledsteak,usedasyouwouldpestoonpasta,orasacondimenttoflavoursaucesandcreams.

Makesabout80

note:Youwillneedtogiveanadditionalsingleturntothepuffpastry,torefinethelayersofpastryandtostop

therouladefromexpandingexcessivelyduringthebakingprocess.

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,6singleturns

oliveoil,forpan-frying

300g(10½oz)haloumicheese,roughlychopped

Olivetapenade

300g(10½oz)greenolives,pitted

50g(13/4oz)smallcapersinbrine,drained

50g(13/4oz)anchovyfillets

juiceof1lemon

½teaspoongroundblackpepper

80ml(23/4floz)virginoliveoil,plusextra,ifneeded

LTomakethetapenade,puttheolives,capers,anchovies,lemonjuiceandpepperinafood

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processor.Withthemotorrunning,graduallyaddtheoliveoilandprocessuntilathick,spreadablepasteforms.Youmayneedtoaddalittleextraoiltoachievetherightconsistency.Transfertoasmallbowl,coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LRolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2mm(1/16in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout35x40cm(14x16in).Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Towardstheendofrolling,feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthepastryintoshape.Forthesesmallroulades,itisimportantthatthepastryisrollednothickerthan2mm(1/16in)orthespiralwillcomeundoneduringbaking.Cuttherectangleinhalflengthwayssoyouendupwithtwo40cm(16in)longstrips,thendustalittleflouroverthetop.Placeonalinedtrayandrefrigeratefor30minutes.

LHeatadrizzleofoliveoilinafryingpanoverhighheat.Assoonastheoilbeginstosmoke,addthehaloumiandcookfor1minute,stirringcontinuouslyuntillightgoldenallover.Removeanddrainonpapertowelandsetasideuntilcooledtoroomtemperature.

LLightlydusttheworksurfacewithflour.Takeonehalfofthepastryoutofthefridgeandplaceitontheworksurface,withonelongsidefacingyou.Usingaspatula,spreadhalfofthetapenadeevenlyoverthetopofthepastry,thenscatterwithhalfofthehaloumi.Usethepalmofyourhandtogentlypushdownonthehaloumi.Rollthepastryupintoatightroulade,startingfromthetopleft-handcornerandworkingyourwayacrosstotheright.Puttherouladeinthefreezerfor30minutestofirmup.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingpastry,tapenadeandhaloumi.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linetwolargebakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Removeonerouladefromthefreezerandplaceit,seamsidedown,onacuttingboard.Usingalargeknife,cuttherouladeinto1cm(½in)thickslices,holdingitinshapewhilecutting.Pickuponepieceatatime,thenplaceonthelinedbakingtrays,spacingthemabout3cm(1¼in)apart.Placeapieceofbakingpaperontopofthepastriesandcoverwithanotherbakingtray.Bakefor15minutes,thenreducetheoventemperatureto170°C(340°F),removethetoptrayandpaperandbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removeandcoolonwireracks.Repeatwiththeremainingroulade.

LServewarmoratroomtemperature.Thesubtlesaltinessofthetapenadeanddelicateflakinessofthepuffpastrymaketheserouladesanidealcanapé.Servethemwithsomecheeseandaglassofwine,orwithpâtéorporkrillettes.

tips

Ifyouwanttofreezetheroulades,dosobeforecookingthem:wraptheslicedrouladepiecesinplasticwrap.Tocook,placethefrozenrouladeslicesin

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thefridgetothaw,thenbakeaspertherecipeinstructions.

Toachieveaperfectlycircularshape,usearoundcutterthatbestfitsthesizeofyourrouladesandusethattocuttheexcesspastryoffassoonastheycomeoutoftheoven.

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Tarteaupotironetauxlardons

(Speckandpumpkintart)ThisspeckandpumpkinsavourytartisverycommoninthesouthofFrance,mainlyduetothe

factthatpumpkinfavoursamoretemperateclimate.Pumpkintartislargelyaprovincialspecialty,foundmostlyinsmallvillagebakeriesorontheshelvesoffreshfoodmarketsratherthaninthemorecosmopolitanbakeriesoflargetownsandcities.

Ifyouoverlookitsunderstatedanddecidedlyrusticlook,youwillberewardedwithaperfectlybalancedandmoisttart,withundertonesofhazelnutsandhoneythatcanbeenjoyedasamid-afternoontreat,orservedasourfamilylikestodo,asanaccompanimentforaSundayroast.

Serves6–8

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

1egg

1eggyolk

pinchoffinesalt

Filling

600g(1lb5oz)butternut(squash),japorkentpumpkin

50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter

150ml(5floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

2eggs,lightlybeaten

¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

¼teaspoongroundblackpepper

finesalt,totaste

200g(7oz)piecespeck,baconorprosciutto,cutinto1cm(½in)cubes

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry,reservingthepastryscraps.Refrigerateboththetartshellandscrapsfor30minutes.

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LMeanwhile,tomakethefilling,peelthepumpkin,removetheseedsandcutitinto4cm(1½in)cubes.Bringalargesaucepanoflightlysaltedwatertotheboiloverhighheat.Addthepumpkin,thenreducetheheattomedium,coverandcookfor15minutes,oruntiltender.Removefromtheheatanddrain.Putthehotpumpkinintoafoodprocessorwiththebutter,cream,eggs,nutmegandpepperandprocessuntilsmoothandcreamy.Seasontotastewithsalt,thensetasidetocool.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebottomofthetartshellisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F).

LMeanwhile,placeafryingpanoverhighheatfor2minutesoruntilhot,thenaddthespeckandcook,stirringcontinuously,for8–10minutes,oruntilthespeckisgoldenandthefathasmelted.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Thisprocessiscalledrenderinganditisdesignedtomeltthefatinyourmeat,removeimpuritiesandimprovetheoverallflavourandtexture.Stirthespeckintothecooledpumpkinpurée,thenpourthepumpkinfillingintothetartshell.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheegg,eggyolkandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.Rolloutthereservedpuffpastryscrapsonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa2mm(1/16in)thickrectanglethatmeasuresatleast25cm(10in)wide.Cutthepastryintothin5mm(¼in)strips.Laythestripsoverthefilling,arrangingthemparalleltoeachotherandspacingthemabout2cm(3/4in)apart.Rotatethetart45degreesandrepeattheprocess.Thissimplifiedlatticedesignisalotfasterandeasiertoexecutethanaweavedlatticeonalargetartandstilllooksrusticandelegantafterbaking.Ifyoupreferthetraditionallatticedesign,refertothephotographasaguide.Brushtheeggwashneatlyoverthelatticetopandaroundtheedgeofthepie,thenbakefor30minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Servewarmwithatablespoonofthick(double/heavy)cream,andagreensalad.

salttotaste

I rarely recommend a dosage for salt in savoury recipes, because the amount of salt you need can vary dramatically, depending on how long youreducedasaucetothetypeofingredientsyouchose(eveniftheyarethesameasthoseIhaverecommended,differentproductscanvaryinsaltiness)and,ofcourse,yourpersonaltaste.Mostfoodsneedalittlesalttoenhancetheflavour,butaswithmostotherspicesandcondiments,therightamountismostlybasedonyourownpreferences.Forthisreason,Iusuallysuggest ‘salt, totaste’or,whenmakinganythingwherethevolumeofsaucewillreduceasitcooks,itisbesttoseasonattheendofcooking.

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Tartegratinée

(Potatoandcreamtart)Thistartisbasedontherecipeforgratindauphinois,whichwasdevelopedover300yearsagoby

AugusteEscoffier,oneofthepioneersofFrenchgastronomy.Thisrecipefortartegratinéedifferssomewhatfromtheoriginalasitcontainsasmallamountofcheeseandeggs.Theideabehindusingthisversionoverthetraditionaloneisbecausethecheeseandeggswillhelpbindthetarttogether,makingitaloteasiertoserve,transformingthisdelicious,ifsomewhatmessy,gratinintoaneasy-to-handlepicnictreat.

Serves6–8

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

500g(1lb2oz)potatoes,suchasrusset(idaho),desireeorpontiac

700ml(24floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg

3teaspoonsfinesalt,ortotaste

½teaspoongroundblackpepper

3eggs

150g(5½oz)gruyèrecheese,grated

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)tartringortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseofthetartshellisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto160°C(320°F).

LMeanwhile,peel,washanddrythepotatoes.Usingamandolinortheslicingattachmentonafoodprocessor,cutthepotatoesinto2mm(1/16in)thinslices.Youcanusealargeknifetoslicethepotatoes,butyouneedtomakesuretheyareallthesamethickness,toensurethepotatocooksevenly.

LPutthecream,nutmeg,saltandpepperinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhigh

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heat.Assoonasthecreamcomestotheboil,removefromtheheatandaddtheslicedpotatoes.Coverwithalidandsetasidefor15minutes,oruntilcooltothetouch,thenpourthepotatoesintoasieveplacedoverabowl.Whisktheeggsintothecreammixture,thenstirinhalfthegruyère.

LStartingfromtheoutsideedge,arrangethepotatoslices,slightlyoverlapping,aroundthecircumferenceofthetin.Repeatwiththeremainingpotatoes,workingallthewaytothemiddleofthetart.Placethetartontheovenshelf,thenpourinthecreammixture,leavingthetopedgesofthepotatoslicesexposed.Sprinkletheremaininggruyèreoverthetop.

LBakefor45minutes,thenincreasetheoventemperatureto190°C(375°F)andbakeforanother10–15minutes,oruntilthepotatoesarecookedthroughandthecheeseisgolden.Tocheckifthepotatoesarecooked,insertthetipofaparingknifeintothetart—ifyoufeelanyresistance,cookforanother5minutes,thencheckagain.Removefromtheovenandcoolforatleast15minutesbeforeremovingfromthetin.Thisisdeliciousservedhotorcold,withagreensaladtossedwithasharpvinegardressing.

technicaltip

Therearetwotypesofnon-enzymaticbrowningandthetermsforeachareoftenerroneouslyused.YoumighthavenoticedthatthroughoutthisbookItendtousetheword‘golden’andnot ‘caramelised’todescribethebrowningofcheese(asforthistart),meatsorfish.Thisisbecause‘caramelising’describesthebrowningthatoccurswhensucrose(notprotein)isheated.ThisisdifferentfromtheMaillardreaction,atermusedtodescribeaseriesofchemicalreactionsthatoccurbetweenaminoacidsandreducingsugarswhenproteins(meat,fish,dairyproducts)areheated.Sweetvegetablessuchascarrots,beetroot(beets)orsweetpotatoeswillbesubjectedtobothcaramelisationandtheMaillardreactionduringthebrowningprocess,becausetheycontainbothsucroseandprotein.

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TarteaufromagedeBanon

(Goat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltart)WhenmysisterandIwereyoung,wespentoursummerholidaysatmygrandparents’housein

Ongles,atinyProvençalvillagesurroundedbyfieldsoflavender,wildthymeandsunflowers.EveryweekendtheytookustoBanon,asmalltownshipfamousworldwideforitstraditionalspecialties,includingadonkeysausageandtheverywellrenownedBanongoat’scheese,asmallcircularcheesemadeofrawgoat’smilk,wrappedinchestnutleaves.Thistartremindsmeofthosehappysummerweekends,whenwewouldhuddleundertheyellowawningofthelocalcafétoescapethescorchingheat,sippingonarefreshingorgeatsyrup,hungrilyscoffingdownacoldtartelettedeBanon.IlovethistartforthefactthatitissorepresentativeofProvençalcooking:simple,almostrusticandmadewithlocallysourcedingredients.

Serves6–8

500g(1lb2oz)coldPuffPastry,5singleturns

2roma(plum)tomatoes,verythinlysliced

10blackolives

180g(6¼oz)Banongoat’scheese,orotherfreshgoat’scheese,crumbled

2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil

Sauce

1tablespoonextravirginoliveoil

1onion,finelychopped

400g(14oz)cherrytomatoes,quartered

2garliccloves,thinlysliced

3thymesprigs,leavespicked

1teaspoongroundblackpepper

10largebasilleaves,plusextra,toserve

finesalt,totaste

LYouwillneeda25cm(10in)ringtinortarttinwitharemovablebase.Rolloutthepuffpastryonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick.Remembertokeepmovingthedoughanddustingwithextraflourwhennecessarysothatitdoesn’tsticktoyourworksurface.Linethebaseandsideofthetinwiththepastry.Refrigeratefor30minutes.

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LMeanwhile,tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinasaucepanovermedium–highheat.Assoonastheoilbeginstosmoke,addtheonion,thenreducetheheattomediumandcookfor10minutes,stirringregularlyuntiltheonionisgolden.Addthetomatoes,garlic,thymeandpepper,thencoverandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes,oruntilthickenedandreduced.Towardstheendofcooking,tearthebasilleavesintothesauceandseasontotastewithsalt.Removefromtheheat,coverwithaclothandsetasideuntilcooledtoroomtemperature.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Removethetinfromthefridgeandlinethetartshellwithfoil,makingsurethesideoftheshelliscovered,thenfilltothetopwithuncookedriceorbakingbeads.Blindbakefor20minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removethericeandfoilandsetasideuntilcool.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F).

LSpreadthecooledsauceoverthebaseofthetartshell.Makesureyoursauceiscool,asawarmsaucewillsoftenthethinlayersofpuffpastry,resultinginasoggybase.Placetheslicedtomatoesoverthetop,arrangingtheminslightlyoverlappingconcentriccircles,thenscatterovertheolivesandgoat’scheese.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthepastryisgolden.Drizzletheoliveoiloverthetomatoes,thenscatterwiththeextrabasilleavesandservewarm.Ifyouprefertoserveitcold(mypersonalfavourite)asamid-afternoontreatorfordinner,refrigerateuntilneededandonlygarnishwiththebasilwhenyouarereadytoserve.

tip

Thethymeandbasilwilltakeawhiletoinfusethesauceproperly,sothistartwilltasteevenbetterafterafewdays.Simplyreheatitina180°C(350°F)ovenfor5minutes.

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Croissants

‘Nothingiscreated,nothingislost,allistransformed.’

ANTOINELAVOISIER

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Croissant

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Croissants

Fromafreshlybakedbaguettetoabowlofcaféaulait,thecroissantissomuchapartofthefabricofdailyFrenchlifethatit’shardtobelieveitisn’treallyFrench.Therearecountlessstoriesabouthowandwherethispastryoriginated,withmosttheoriessuggestingthatitwasMarieAntoinette,originallyfromVienna,whointroducedtheAustriankipferl(arolled-upplainbrioche)totheFrenchRoyalCourt.Itwasn’tuntillaterthataFrenchbakerinventedthemethodoflayeringbutterinasweetbreaddough,which,inturn,ledtothecreationofpuffpastry,Danishpastryand,ofcourse,thefamedbuttercroissantweknowandlovetoday.ItisnotentirelyclearwhythecroissanthasbecomesocloselyassociatedwithFrenchculture;however,whatisclearisthattherereallyisnosuchthingasatrue‘local’creation.Asmuchaswemightthinkotherwise,allourfavouritespecialtiesareinfactjustthelaststepinalonglineofsmallimprovementsthathavebeenmadeovermanyyears,allsubjectiveandbearingwitnesstothevariousinfluencesofalonglineofbakers.

Asasmallboy,Irememberlookinglonginglyatthebasketsfilledwithgoldenbrownpastriesthatadornedthewindowofmylocalpâtisserie,andevennowIcanstillrememberthewarm,butterysmellthatwaftedoutthedoor.Ilovedtryingtocatchaglimpseofthepaleanddishevelledbakerinside,rollingthosesmalltrianglesofdoughintocroissantsatwarpspeed,thetraysofperfectlyshapedcrescentsofdoughglisteningunderthefluorescentlights.Now,everytimeIseeasmallchildlookingupatmewhenIaminthekitchenrollingcroissants,thesamewayit’sbeendoneforahundredyears,IwonderifheseesthemagicofthemomentasIdidallthoseyearsago,orifallheseesisapaleanddishevelledmiddle-agedmanplayingwithflour.

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Pâteàcroissant

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Pâteàcroissant

(Croissantdough)Thisviennoiserieisnotoriouslytrickytomakebecauseitencompassesnotonlytheartofmixing

ayeasteddough,butalsothefiddlyprocessoflaminating,or‘turning’,thedoughwithbutter.Unlikepuffpastry,thecroissantdoughcontainsyeastandhasapropensitytostartprovingduringthelaminatingprocessifyourworkingenvironmentistoowarm.Addedtothataretheproblemsyouwillfaceifyourbutterbeginstosoftentoomuch.SobepatientandfamiliariseyourselfwithyouringredientsbyreadingthechapteronEssentialIngredientsandtheentireprocessdescribedinthisstep-by-stepsectionbeforeyoubegin.Trustme,therewardsoflookingatyourcroissantsslowlydevelopingintheovenandtheprideyouwillfeelwhenyouservethesebeautifullyflakypastriestoyourfriendsandfamilywillfarexceedtheeffortspentinmakingthem.

Makesabout1kg(2lb4oz)

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

60g(2¼oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2teaspoonsfinesalt

10g(¼oz)driedyeast

300ml(10½floz)full-creammilk

270g(9½oz)blockcoldunsaltedbutter

Howtomixthedoughandpreparethebutter

Usinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment,mixtheflour,sugar,saltandyeast(photo1)onlowspeeduntilwellcombined.Graduallyaddthemilk(2)andmixfor5minutes.Atthis stage thedough shouldbe firmbutnotdry. If themixture looks toohardor if yourmixerfindsithardtomixproperly,add1–2tablespoonsofextramilktosoftenitup.Sometypesofflouror floursmadefromdifferent typesofwheathavedifferentratesofabsorptionandmayrequiremoreliquidthanothers.

After5minutes,increasethespeedslightlyandmixforanother10minutes,oruntilthedoughissmoothandcomesaway fromthe sideof thebowl (3).Be carefulwhen increasing the speedofyourmixer; thisdoughcanbehardonsmallmixers, so ifyou feel likeyourmixer is struggling,reducethespeedandmixforafewminuteslonger.

Stopthemixer,removethedoughandplaceinabowl.Lightlydustwithflour(4)andcoverwithacleancloth.Setasideinawarmplaceforthefirstprove(pointage)for1hour,oruntilincreasedinsizebyhalf.Alwayscheckonhowfastyourdoughisproving.Thefirstproveismeanttostimulate

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theyeastonly,soassoonas thedoughincreasesbyroughlyhalfof itsoriginalsize, transfer toatray linedwithbakingpaper. Flatten thedoughover the tray asmuch as you can to remove asmanygasbubblesaspossible.Coverthetraywithplasticwrapandrefrigerateonthetopshelfforatleast1hour.

Whenthedough(détrempe)iscold,youwillneedtopreparethebutterforthelaminatingprocess.Thisinvolvespoundingthecoldbutterintoarectangleroughlyhalfthesizeofyourdough.Todothis,placetheblockofcoldbutteronapieceofbakingpaper,coverwithanotherpieceofbakingpaperandusearollingpintopoundthebutter,turningitregularlyby90degrees,intoarectangleabout18x20cm(7x8in).Coverthebutterinplasticwrapandsetaside.

1 2

3 4

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cookingtip:

LIdeally,theprovingprocessshouldbedoneinahumidity-controlledenvironmentbecausethedoughhasatendencytodryoutwhenexposedtodryairso,ifyoucan,proveyourcroissantsinanenclosedspacesuchasacupboardoryouroven(turnedoff)tostopthemdryingout.

Thelaminatingprocess

Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanddustthetopwithflour(5).Rollthedoughfromthemiddleallthewaytotheedgesintoa20x35cm(8x14in)rectangle.Keepmovingthedough and dustingwith a little extra flour to stop it sticking (be frugal with the flour you useduringthisprocess).Ifyoucan’trollyourdoughouttotheexactdimensions,useyourhandstostretchitintoshape.Rotatethedough90degrees.

Unwrapthebutterandplaceitinthecentreofthedoughrectangle.Foldbothendsofthedoughover the top so theymeet in themiddle of the butter and pinch the ends together (6, 7). Youshouldendupwitha20x18cm(8x7in)rectangle,withthebutterexposedattwoends,andatightlysealedseamoverthetop.

Withoneshortendfacingyou,beginrollingthedoughfromthemiddletothetop(8),flouringasneeded. Rotate the block 180 degrees and repeat the process until you have a rectangle thatmeasuresabout20x65cm(8x25½ in).Foldone-thirdof therectangleover themiddleof theblock(9), then fold theotherendover the top (10).Thiswill giveyoua single turn.During theprocessof‘turning’,makesurethatyoumaintainyouroriginalrectangularshapeeitherbygentlyrolling or stretching the dough into shape, as this will ensure an even distribution of butterthroughoutthecroissant.

Use your finger to mark one dot in the dough (11), as a reminder that this is the first turn.(Increase the number of dots for subsequent turns.) Cover the dough in plastic wrap andrefrigeratefor1hour,oruntilthebutterisfirm.

Thenextandfinalturnisadoubleturn,orbookturn,andforthisthedoughwillneedtoberolledoutthinnertoaccommodatetheadditionalfold(12).Repeattheprocessasforthefirstturnbutcontinuerollinguntilyougetalargerrectanglemeasuring20x90cm(8x35½in).Onceyouhaverolledandstretchedthedoughintothecorrectdimension(13),foldbothendsuptomeetinthemiddle of the rectangle (14, 15), then fold it in half again to end up with a block roughly theoriginalsizeofthebutter(16).

Wrapthecroissantdough(pâton)inplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor2hours.Restingthedoughinthefridgeenablesthegluten(proteinintheflour)torelaxandalsohelpsthebutterharden.Thisnotonlymakesitaloteasiertoworkwiththedoughbutalsoensuresthatthebutterisn’tabsorbedintothethinlayersofdough,whichwouldeffectivelynegatemostoftheworkyouhavejustdone.

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5 6

7 8

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9 10

11 12

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13 14

15 16

cookingtip:

LCroissantdoughdoesnotfreezeverywellduetoitsliveculturecontent(yeast),anddomesticfreezersarenotdesignedtomaintainthecoldtemperaturesrequiredtostabilisetheyeastproperly.MyadviceistobakeallthecroissantsonthedayandkeepanyleftovertomakeAlmondCroissantsorBreadandButterPudding.

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Everwonderedhowmanylayersofbutterthereareinacroissant ?

LCroissantsaremadeusingtwodifferenttypesofturns,orfolds:asingleturnandadoubleturn,orbookturn.Eventhoughabookturnisgenerallyreferredtoasadoubleturn,itisnotentirelymathematicallycorrect.Tosaveyouthetroubleofhavingtocounteachandeverylayerofyourcroissantorpuffpastryatbreakfast,hereisasimpleequationthatillustratesthemechanicsoflaminating:

Singleturns: Double(book)turns:Firstturn:3layersofbutter Firstturn:4layersofbutterSecondturn:3x3=9layers Secondturn:4x4=16layersThirdturn:9x3=27layers Thirdturn:16x4=64layersFourthturn:27x3=81layers Fourthturn:64x4=256layersFifthturn:81x3=243layers Sixthturn:243x3=729layers

Soifyou’veeverwonderedhowmanylayersofbutterareinyourcroissant,theansweris12:threelayersforasingleturnxfourlayersforadoubleturn.

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Makingthecroissants

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Makingthecroissants

Croissantsareahomagetothewondermentofgeometryandhowasimpletrianglecanbeshapedintoamulti-layered,perfectlyshapedcroissantwithasinglerollofthehand.Rememberthateverybakerandpastrychefintheworldhastheirownpersonalstylewhenitcomestotheshapeoftheircroissant,astylehonedovermanyyearsofpractice,sodon’tbetoodauntedifyoursendupalittlefat,oralittleshort.Regardlessoftheirshape,theyareyoursandthat,initself,isabeautifulthing.

Makes10–12

1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn

3eggs

pinchoffinesalt

Cuttingthecroissants

Linetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaper.Removethecroissantdoughfromthefridgeandplaceona lightly flouredworksurfacewithoneshort,openside facingyou.Dust the topwitha littleextra flour and begin rolling lengthwise, regularlymoving the dough anddustingwith flour toensureitdoesn’tsticktotheworksurface.Thisfinalprocessisthemostdemandingone.Ifyou’regettingtiredorifthedoughsoftensuptoomuch,simplysprinklethetopofthedoughwithflour,folditgentlyoveritselfandrefrigerateuntilitsetsagain.Continuetherollingprocessuntilyougeta longrectangle(photo1) thatmeasuresabout20x60cm(8x24 in)and isabout5mm(¼in)thick.

Before you begin cutting your rolled-out dough (abaisse), fluff it up by running your handunderneath it and lifting itupgentlyonall sides.Thisallows thegluten time to relaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.

Usealargeknifetocutthedoughintoalternatingtriangleswitha10cm(4in)base(2).Gentlylifteach triangle and stretch itwith your hands until they are lengthened by about 10 per cent, toroughly 22 cm (8½ in) long (3).Remove any excess flour from thework surface, as the doughneeds toadhere to the surface for thecroissants tobe rolledproperly.Placeone triangleon theworksurfacewiththepointedendfacingyou.Usingbothpalms,rollthewideend(thebase)ofthecroissanttowardsyou,allthewaytothetipofthetriangle(4).Whenthecroissantisrolled,simplybend it in the shapeof a crescent andplace it on a linedbaking tray, leaving a 5 cm (2 in) gapbetweeneach.

Coverthecroissantswithadampclothandplace inawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;they

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should feel soft but still elastic. If the pastry doesn’t bounce back after being poked, they areprobably slightly overproved, so occasionally check on their progress towards the end of therecommendedprovingtime.

Bakingthecroissants

Tomakeaneggwash, lightlybeattheeggsandsalt together inasmallbowl, thensetasidefor5minutes.

Preheattheovento185°C(365°F).Whenthecroissantshaveproved,brushthemgenerouslywiththeeggwashandbakefor25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Unlikepuffpastry,croissantdoughhas a leaveningagent (yeast), sodoesnot rely solelyon the steamcreatedbywater evaporationduringthebakingprocesstodevelop.Croissantsshouldhaveaflakyskinandasoft,fleshycentre,sotheyneedtobecookedatamuchlowertemperatureforashorterperiod—don’tbetemptedtoleavethemfortoolongintheoven.Generallyspeaking, ifyourespectthecookingtemperature,thecolourwillbeagreatindicatorofwhetherthecroissantsarereadyornot.

1 2

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3 4

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Painsauchocolatetauxnoisettes

(Chocolateandhazelnutcroissants)Painsauchocolat,orchocolatinesastheyarecalledinsomeareas,areoneofmanypastriesmade

withcroissantdough.TheyseemtohavemadetheirwayontotheshelvesofFrenchbakeries,probablyasanimprovementofthemuch-loved,and‘imaginatively’named,baguettebeurreetchocolat—acrunchystickof—aspertheliteraltranslation—chocolatesandwichedinabutteredbreadstick.

ForthisrecipeIrecommendyouuseagood-quality,low-sugarchocolatewitha70percentcocoacontentandsomechoppedhazelnutstoaddabitoftexture.However,asalways,feelfreetouseanytypeofchocolatetosuityourpersonaltaste,orremovethenutsaltogethertomakeatraditionalchocolatine.

Makes10–12

1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn

300g(10½oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),coarselychopped

200g(7oz)hazelnuts,roastedandskinned,coarselychopped(seetip)

3eggs

pinchoffinesalt

LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Thestickingcreatesresistance,whichmeansyouwillneedtoapplymorepressure,thusdamagingthedelicatelayersofbutter.Youneedtomaketherectangleslightlywider—about30cm(12in)wideand5mm(¼in)thick.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Beforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandsunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Thisallowstheglutentimetorelaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.Cuttherectangleinhalflengthwaystoformtwolong,15cm(6in)wide,rectangles.Placeonepieceonalinedtrayandrefrigeratewhileyoucutandrolltheotherhalf.

LUsingalargeknife,cutthedoughinto10x15cm(4x6in)rectangles.Inordertopreservetheintegrityofthefinelayersofbutter,trytocutthepastryusingonesinglemotionoftheknife,andavoiddraggingtheknifethroughthedough.Place1tablespoonchoppedchocolateoneach

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rectangle,alongthetopofoneshortside,thensprinklesomehazelnutsoverthewholerectangle.Feelfreetoincreaseordecreasetheamountofchocolate,nutsorwhateverelseyoudecidetouse.Startingfromtheendwiththechocolate,tightlyrollupeachrectangleofdoughtoenclosethefilling.Placeonthelinedtrays,leavinga7cm(23/4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento185°C(365°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.

LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Brushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofeachpastry,thenbakefor25minutes,oruntilgolden.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

tip

Pastrieswill increaseinsizeaftertheyhavebeenbaked,sometimesasmuchastwicetheiroriginalsize,sobeverythoroughwhenbrushingtheeggwash over your pastries before cooking them. Start from the top and brush the eggwash all theway to the very bottom of each piece, to ensuremaximumcoverageandthebestfinishpossible.

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Croissantsauxamandes

(Almondcroissants)Consideringhowmuchworkgoesintomakingasimplecroissant,andkeepinginmindthat

eachofthemillionsofcroissantsbakedeverydayacrosstheworldneedtobesoldwithinhoursofbeingbaked,itwasinevitablethatbakersweregoingtocomeupwithacleverwayofrecyclingthem.AsfarasIknow,thereisnodocumentedwayofmakinga‘typical’Frenchalmondcroissant;somearemadebyliningthecroissantdoughwithalmondcreampriortobaking,somearesoakedinsyrupandsomearen’t.Onceagain,itisamatterofpersonalpreference.

ThisrecipefollowstheexactprocessthatIhavestucktosincemyapprenticeship.AsawisemaneloquentlytoldmewhenIfirstmovedtoAustralia,‘Ifitain’tbroke,don’tfixit’.Thereciperequiresonlyafewingredients:someleft-overcroissants(orusepainauchocolatifyoulike),somealmondcreamandasyrup,andwhatyou’llendupwithisanincrediblymoistandtastypastry,withadelicatelycrunchylayerofalmonds.Thisisrecyclingatitsbest!

Makes10

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

50ml(13/4floz)rum(optional)

10day-oldcroissants

500g(1lb2oz)AlmondCream

200g(7oz)flakedalmonds

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,todust

LPut1litre(35floz)water,thesugarandrum,ifusing,inasaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheatandsetasidetocoolforatleast15minutes,oruntilabout60°C(140°F).

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Linealargebakingtraywithbakingpaper.Cutthecroissantsthree-quartersofthewaythrough,fromthebacktothefront.Notcuttingtheminhalfcompletelywillstopthetopsfromfallingoffduringsoaking.Workingwithoneatatimeandusingyourhands(seetip),submergethecroissantsintothewarmsyrup,openingthemupslightlytoallowtheliquidtosoakallthewaytothemiddleofthepastry.Gentlysqueezetoremovetheexcesssyrupandplaceonthelinedtray.

LSpoonthealmondcreamintoapipingbagfittedwitha1cm(½in)plainnozzle.Liftupthetopofeachcroissantandpipeathicklineofalmondcreaminsidethecroissant,fromoneendto

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theother.Whenallthecroissantsarefilled,pipeanotherlayerofalmondcreamalongthetopofeachone.Sprinklewithagenerousamountofalmonds,thenuseyourpalmtopressthealmondsontothecreamandflattenthecreamonthetopofthecroissants.

LBakefor25minutes,oruntilthealmondcreamfillingbeginstoset.Tocheck,useapairofkitchentongstocarefullyliftopenacroissant;ifthecreamisstillrunny,cookforanother5minutes.Removefromtheoven,allowtocoolalittle,thendustgenerouslywithicingsugar.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

LLikemostpastries,almondcroissantsarebestwhentheyarefreshlycooked,however,intheunlikelyeventthattheywon’tallbeeatenontheday,theycanbekeptforupto1weekiftheyarewrappedindividuallyandstoredonthebottomshelfofthefridge.Simplyreheatthemina180°C(350°F)ovenfor10minutes.

tip

Alwayscheckthetemperatureofyoursyrupbeforeputtingyourhandsintothepan!Ifyoudon’thaveathermometer,allowthesyruptocoolfor15minutes,thendiponefingerinthesyruptoassessthetemperature.Youwillgetthebestresultifyoursyrupishot,becauseacoldsyrupwon’tsoakintothepastryaswellasitshould.Ifthesyrupisgettingtoocold,reheatitfor1–2minutesonhighheat.

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Fourrésauxpêchesetaucitron

(Peachandlemonpastries)Nothingsayssummermorethanthearrivalofthefirststonefruitsinthebasketsofyourlocal

fruitandvegetableshop.Let’sbehonest,ifyouaretalkingabouttemptation,thehumbleapplepalesincomparisontoabeautifulvelvetypeachwithitssweetandmoistpulpandtangyskin,oraperfectlyripeplumwithitsshiny,translucent-burgundycolourandjuicyflesh.InthisrecipeIhaveusedwell-ripenedpeaches(oryoucouldtryapricotsorplums)andhaveaddedasmallamountoflemonzesttobalanceoutthesweetnessofthefruit.

Makes18

350g(12oz)coldCustard

finelygratedzestof2lemons

2tablespoonswhippingcream(35%fat)

1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

9ripepeaches,halved,stonesremovedandcutinto4mm(1/8in)thickslices

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whiskthecustardonlowspeeduntilsmooth.Addthelemonzestandcreamandwhiskforanother3–5minutes,oruntilsmoothandshiny.Transfertoasmallbowl,coverandrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa30x60cm(12x24in)rectangle,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LBeforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Usingalargeknife,cutthedoughintoeighteen10cm(4in)squares.Trytocutthepastryusingonesinglemotionoftheknife,andavoiddraggingtheknifethroughthedough.Placethesquaresonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaperandrefrigeratefor20minutes,oruntilcoldandfirm.

LWorkingwithonepastrysquareatatime,andkeepingtheothersrefrigerated,placeitonthe

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worksurface.Foldineachcornersotheymeetinthecentre,thenuseyourthumbtopresstheendstogethertoseal.Placeonalinedbakingtrayandrepeatwiththeremainingsquares,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetaside.

LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Usingyourfingertip,makeasmallindentinthecentreofeachpastrysquare.Thiswillstopthefoldedpastrycornersfromopeningupduringthebakingprocessandwillforcethedoughtorisearoundthepeachesratherthanpushingthefillingoutfromunderneath.Spoon1tablespooncustardintoeachindent,thenarrangethepeachslicesinacircularpatternonthecustard.Brushtheeggwashovertheexposedpastry(seetips).Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor20–25minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Transfertoawireracktocoolslightly.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

tips

Whileitmightbealittlefiddly,alwaysfillyourpastriesbeforeyouapplytheeggwashsothatthecustardstickstothedough;otherwise,thecustard(andthepeaches)mightslideoffduringthebakingprocess.

Citrusrindsalwaysneedtobecookedtomakethemmorepalatableand,moreimportantly,sothattheyreleasetheiroils;however,theywillburnveryquicklywhenexposedtodirectheat,soalwaysmixtheminacream,orplacethemunderanyfruit,priortobaking.

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Rouladespistache-framboise

(Pistachioandraspberryswirls)Thewordrouladeliterallymeans‘rolledup’and,assuch,referstoamethodratherthana

specificdoughorflavourcombination.Thisviennoiseriecanbetweakedtosuittheseason,aspecificcelebrationorjustpersonalpreference—ifevertherewasablankcanvasforyoutoexperimentwithyourflavourcombinations,thisisit.

Thisrouladewithpistachioandraspberryisoneofmyfavourites,withitsbeautifullyflakypastry,sweetpistachiocreamandtartberryinfusion,itisperfectfordunkinginyourcupofcoffeeinthemorning,anditisalsothesimplestwaytousecroissantdough.

Makesabout15

1kg(2lb4oz)coldCroissantDough,1singleand1doubleturn

300g(10½oz)PistachioCream

300g(10½oz)frozenraspberries

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

finelychoppedpistachios,todecorate(optional)

finelychoppedfreeze-driedorfreshraspberries,todecorate(optional)

LFollowingthemethod,rolloutthecroissantdoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa25x50cm(10x20in)rectangle,dustingwithextraflourwhenneededtoensurethedoughdoesn’tsticktothesurface.Thestickingcreatesresistance,whichmeansyouwillneedtoapplymorepressure,thusdamagingthedelicatelayersofbutterinthedough.Ifyouhaven’tachievedaperfectlyshapedrectanglewithyourrollingpintowardstheendoftherollingprocess,simplystretchandpullthedoughintoshapeusingyourhands.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Beforeyoubegincuttingyourrolled-outdough(abaisse),fluffitupbyrunningyourhandsunderneathitandliftingitupgentlyonallsides.Thisallowstheglutentimetorelaxandstopsyourcutpiecesfromshrinkingandlosingtheirshapeduringthecuttingprocess.

LWithonelongsidenearesttoyou,spreadthepistachiocreamalloverthedough,rightuptotheedges,thensprinklethefrozenraspberriesevenlyoverthecream.Startingfromthetopleft-handcornerofthedoughandworkingyourwayacrosstothetopright-handcorner,rollthedoughintoatightlog.Usingalargeknife,cuttheloginto3–4cm(1¼–1½in)thickrollsand

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placeonthelinedtrays,leavinga10cm(4in)gapbetweeneach.Coverwithadampclothandplaceinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento175°C(345°F).Lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowlandsetasidefor5minutes.

LTocheckifyourpastriesarereadytobake,pokethemwithyourindexfinger;theyshouldfeelsoftbutstillelastic.Ifthepastrydoesn’tbouncebackafterbeingpoked,theyareprobablyslightlyoverproved,soit’sagoodideatooccasionallycheckontheirprogresstowardstheendoftherecommendedprovingtime.Brushtheeggwashgenerouslyoverthetopofeachrouladeandbakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor25minutes,oruntilthebasesaregolden.Ifthetopsarebrowningtooquickly,coverlooselywithapieceoffoilandcontinuebakinguntilready.Removefromtheovenandtransfertoawireracktocoolfor20minutes.Ifyoulike,sprinklewithfinelychoppedpistachiosandraspberriesbeforeserving.

tip

Anydoughthatislayeredwithbutter,suchasdoughsusedforcroissantsorDanishpastries,tendstotastealotricherandmorebutterythanabriochedough(eventhoughtheyusuallycontainalotlessfat),becausethebutterisusedraw,sandwichedinsidethedough.Thisrich,fattytasteisexacerbatedwhenthebutterishotandmelted.Ithereforealwaysrecommendeatinganylayeredpastryatroomtemperature,neverwarmedup.

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Brioches

‘I ftheydon’thavebread,letthemeatbrioche!’

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Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd’oranges(Candiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbrioche)

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Brioches

SinceitsfirstwrittenreferenceintheMiddleAges,thisviennoiseriewasalwaysgoingtobespecial,withitssoftandfluffytexture,itsbutteryundertonesandbeautifullycolouredcrust.Itwas,andstillis,consideredthemostdecadentofallviennoiseries.

Inorderforthisdoughtobecalledabrioche,ithastobemadeofthewhitestflour,preferablywithahigh-proteinwheat,butter,eggsandsugar.Whiletheseingredientsarenowreadilyavailablefromanysupermarket,itisnotuntilwethinkofthemintheirhistoricalcontext—whenthecostofakilogramofflourwasaround40percentofapeasant’sdailysalary,sugarhadtobeimportedfromvariousexoticplacesfromaroundtheworld,andbutterwasthepreserveoftherichupperclass—thatwecanbegintounderstandhowbriocherapidlycementeditselfasanepicureanproduct.

Thefactthattheinfamousquote(topleft),oftenerroneouslytranslatedas‘letthemeatcake’,waswronglyattributedtoMarieAntoinette,thelastqueenofFranceatthetimeoftheFrenchRevolution,actuallyhadmoretodowithpropaganda,toreinforcetheglaringdisparitiesbetweentherulingeliteanditssubjectsthanregardsforhistoricalaccuracy.Itnonethelesshelpedpropagateandcementtheimageofthehumblebriocheasaluxuriousanddecadentproduct.

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Pâteàbrioche

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Pâteàbrioche

(Briochedough)Generallyspeaking,inatraditionalbakeryyouwillfindtwobriocherecipes:butterbrioche,

whichcontainsaveryhighpercentageofbutterandarelativelysmallamountofsugar,andsugarbrioche,whichcontainslessfatbutisslightlysweeter.TherecipeIhavechosentoincludehereisthebutterbrioche.Theadvantageofthisrecipeoverthesugarversionliesnotsomuchinthefactthatitcontainsmorebutter(althoughthataloneshouldbeenough!)butratherthatitcontainsverylittlesugar,makingitaversatilebriochethatcanbeusedforbothsavouryorsweetviennoiserie.

Makes1kg(2lb4oz)

note:Thedoughforthisbriochehastobepreparedadayaheadandcanonlybeusedwhencold.

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘00’/T45)

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

3teaspoonsfinetablesalt

15g(½oz)driedyeast

5coldeggs

150ml(5floz)waterchilledwith5icecubes,refrigerated

230g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature,cubed

Makingthedough

Usinganelectricmixer fittedwithadoughhookattachment,combine the flour, sugar, saltandyeastonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.

Breaktheeggsintoabowlandaddthemtotheflourmixture(photo1),alongwith100ml(3½floz)ofcoldwaterstrainedfromtheicecubebath.Mixonlowspeedfor5minutes,oruntilasoft,stickydoughforms.

Increase the speed tomedium andmix for 15minutes, scraping the doughhook from time totime,untilthemixturecomesawayfromthesideofthebowlandbeginsto‘slap’aroundthebowl(2).Alwayscheckthetemperatureof thebriochedoughduringthemixingprocess.Thefrictioncreatedduringkneadingwillgenerateheat,whichcandamagetheyeastandpotentiallybreakthestrandsofgluten(whichgivethedoughitselasticity),leavingyouwithasoft,unworkablepaste.Ifthedoughstartstofeelwarm,reducethespeedofthemixertolow.

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If youare stillonmediumspeed, reduce the speed to low, thenadd thebuttera little at a time,allowingeachadditiontobeincorporatedbeforeaddingthenext(3).Whenallthebutterhasbeenadded, increase the speed tomediumandmix for 10minutes, oruntil thedough is glossy andsmooth.

Windowpanetest

Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(4).Ifyoucan’tseethroughit,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.

1 2

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3 4

cookingtip:

LAnydoughenrichedwithbutterwillrequirethefattobeaddedlast.Gluten(theproteinintheflour)needswatertodevelopitselasticity,acrucialrequirementinyeasteddough,andthefatreducestheabilityfortheglutentoabsorbwater(whichiswhyweputthebutterinfirstfordoughssuchasshortbreadwhereelasticityisundesirable).So,forbriochedough,itisessentialtofirstaddthewater,whichallowstheglutenstrandstodevelopbeforeintroducingthebutter.

Firstprove

Removethedoughhookfromthemixer, thensprinklea little flouroverthedoughinthebowl.Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize(1).

Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist,thenremoveasmuchgasasyoucanbyfoldingthedoughoverafewtimes.Placethedoughinanotherbowl,sprinklewitha little flour,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

Dividingandballingthedough

Allbreads(amelioratedornot)needtobedividedintotheappropriatesizeand‘balled’,aprocessaimed at tightening the dough prior to the final shaping of each individual product. This isespeciallyimportantwhenworkingwithsoft,butterydoughs,asithelpstolengthenthestrandsof

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gluten(theproteininflour)weakenedbytheinherentfatcontentinthebriocheandincreasesthedough’selasticity,helpingittoretainitsshapeduringtheprovingprocess.

Removetheproveddoughfromthefridge.Placethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,thenshapeitintoanevenlog—itdoesn’tmatterwhatsize,thisisjusttohelpyoucutevenportionsofdough.Use aplastic scraperor small knife to cut thedough into the sizeneeded (2). If youaremakingonesingleloaf,skipthiscuttingstep.

Removeanyexcessflourfromtheworksurface.Takeaportionofdoughinthecuppedpalmofyourhandandflattenslightly,thenbringtheoutsideedgesintothemiddleandpinchthecentretoseal (3).Turn theballoveranddrag thebaseover theworksurfaceseveral times (4)—thiswillensureanyairbubblestrappedinthemiddlearereleasedandyoudon’tendupwithabigholeinthemiddleofthebread.

Ifyouaremakingafullloaf,applythesameballingtechniqueasabove,butusethewholeamountofdough.Usebothyourhandstorunthedoughballovertheworksurface,tostretchthedoughandtightenupyourloaf.

Placetheballs,seam-sidedown,onalightlyflouredtray,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

1 2

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3 4

moreonproving:

LMostyeasteddoughsrequirestwoprovingstages.Thefirstproveisdesignedtokickstarttheeffectoftheyeast.Itshouldonlybeaverymoderateprove,becauseoverdoingyourpointage,orfirstprove,weakenstheproteinintheflourandaddsanundesirabletaste(ethanol).Afterknockingthedoughdownfollowingthefirstproveandrefrigeratingitovernight,thedoughisthenprovedagain,togiveittimetodevelopamorerefinedtextureandsmall,evenairpockets.Ifyouskipthesecondprovingstage,you’llendupwithasubstandardproduct,filledwithlargeairbubbles.

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Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd ’oranges

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Briocheausucreetauxécorcesd ’oranges

(Candiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbrioche)Whenitcomestoanyfoodpreparedwithonlyafewingredients,theruleisthis:usegood-

qualityingredientsandletthemshine.Ifevertherewasaproductthatillustratesthisconcept,thenitisthebrioche.Floralaromassuchasorangeblossom,rosewaterorlavenderaddasubtlebutveryeffectivelayerofdimensiontoyourdough,andIthinktheseareperfectforaccentuatingtheunderlyingflavoursofthebriochewithoutoverdoingit.OrangeblossomwateriswidelyusedinsouthernFranceandthisbriocheinvariablyremindsmeofChristmas,whenIwasafifteen-year-oldapprenticegoingtoworkinthemiddleofthosebitterlycoldwinter’snights,thenwalkingintothekitchenandbeingenvelopedinawaveofhotorange-blossomsteamemanatingfromthehundredsoffreshlybaked,goldenbriochesdesrois.Allthechefswerethere,sittingsilentlyandblank-facedinfrontoftheovenstowarmup,sippingoncupsofstrongcoffeeastheycontemplatedyetanotherlong,harddayahead.

Makes12–13

note:Themethodformakingthedoughforthisbriocheisthesameasthebasicrecipe,butyouneedto

reducetheamountofwaterby20ml(½floz)andsubstituteitwiththeorangeblossomwater.Addthecandiedorangepeelattheendofthemixingprocess.

1kg(2lb4oz)BriocheDough

1tablespoonorangeblossomwater

200g(7oz)good-qualitycandiedorangepeel,veryfinelychopped

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)

LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LFollowingthedividingandballingsteps,dividethedoughintosmall80g(23/4oz)pieces,thenrollthepiecesintotightballs.Placethebriocheballsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalt

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togetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashliberallyoverthetopofthebriocheballsthen,usingapairofscissorsdippedintheeggwash,makeasmallcrossinthetopofeachbrioche.Sprinkleliberallywithpearlsugar.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgolden.Transfertoawireracktocoolalittle,thenservewarmoratroomtemperature.Briochearebesteatenwithin1–2days.

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Painperdu

(Frenchtoast)Theliteraltranslationofpainperduis‘lostbread’,anddescribesamethodofrecyclingday-old

breadintoapalatable,sweetdish.Todaywetendtotakeourdailyloafofbreadforgranted,butmanyyearsagowhenwheatwasscarceandbreadproductionrequiredanincredibleamountofwork,itwasunthinkablethataloafofbreadcouldeverbewasted,soitwasputtogooduseindishessuchasthis.Nowadays,Frenchtoastismadeoutofalmostanydough,frombreadtocroissants,anditisstillthebestwaytouseupyouroldpastries.Ihavedecidedtousebriocheherebecause,unlikebread,briochehasahighfatandeggcontent,soitislesslikelytobreakapartandremainssoftandsilkywhensoakedinmilk.

Serves6

500g(1lb2oz)BriocheDough

1litre(35floz)full-creammilk

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

5eggs

pinchoffinesalt

unsaltedbutter,forpan-frying

pureicing(confectioners’)sugar,fordusting

LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LLightlygreaseandfloura15x25cm(6x10in)loaf(bar)tin.Placethecolddoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceanduseyourhandstoshapeitintoa25cm(10in)longroll.Don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtomaketherollsmoothandregular—overworkingyourdoughwillmakeitverysoftandstickyand,moreimportantly,weareonlyusingthisbriocheasslices,soitsinitialshapeisnotagreatconcern.Placetherollinthepreparedtin,coverwithadampclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Whenthebriochehasproved,removetheclothandcoverwithaheavybakingtray.Thisforcesthebriochetoriseevenlyintoaneatrectangle.Bakefor40minutes,thenremovethebriochefromtheoven,removethetrayfromthetop,thenturn

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thetinupsidedownandremoveit.Returnthebriocheloaftotheoven(directlyontheovenrack)andbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilthebriocheisgoldenandspringsbacktothetouch.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperature,thenrefrigerateforatleast2hours.Coolingitinthefridgewillhardenthefatinthebrioche,whichmakesiteasiertocutintoneatandregularslices.

LPutthemilk,sugarandvanillabeansandseedsinasaucepanandstircontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthemilkbeginstosimmer.Removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenpourthemilkintoaflat-bottomedbowl.Coolslightly,thenrefrigerateuntilcold.IliketousecoldmilkwhenmakingFrenchtoastwithfreshbrioche;however,ifyouareusingday-oldbriocheorotherbread,there’snoneedtorefrigeratethemilk,justleaveittocoolalittleinthebowlandusewarm.

LLightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinaseparateflat-bottomedbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Usingaserratedknife,cutthechilledbriocheinto4cm(1½in)thickslices.Soaktwoslicesofbreadinthesweetenedmilkforafewseconds,turningthebreadovertosoakontheothersideaswell(don’tsoaktheslicesfortoolongortheywillfallapartduringcooking).Transferthesoakedbreadtotheeggmixtureandsoakforafewsecondsonbothsides.

LHeatalargeheavy-basedfryingpanoverhighheat.Addasmallknobofbutterand,whenthebutterstartstofoam,addthesoakedbriocheandcookfor4minutesoneachside,oruntilgoldenbrownandcaramelised.Transfertoawirerack.Repeatwiththeremainingbrioche,milkandegg.Justbeforeserving,dusttheFrenchtoastwithicingsugar.Servewithfresh,tangyfruitssuchasberriesoradollopofGreek-styleyoghurt,tobalancethesweetnessofthetoast.

tip

Youwillneedtovarytheamountofsugarintherecipeaccordingtothetypeofbreadyouareusing.Ifusingready-madebrioche,whichisalreadyquitesweet,followtherecommendedamountgivenintherecipe;however,ifusingcroissantsoranunsweetenedbread,increasethesugarcontentofyourmilkrecipebyabout50g(13/4oz)to150g(5½oz).

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Beignetsàlacannelle

(Cinnamondoughnuts)Thewordbeignetcanberoughlytranslatedas‘fritter’,agenerictermreferringtoadeep-fried

dough,andwhileitistraditionallymadefromfriedchouxpastry,theycanbemadefromalmostanydough,fromsweetbreadmadewitholiveoil(chichiaupommes)tobriochemadewithbutter(beignetitalien),orevenfromcroissantdough.

AlthoughIhaveincludedafewdifferentvariationsoffrittersinthisbook,briochedoughnutsarebyfarthebest,especiallywhenitcomestoplainsugardoughnuts.IfyouhaveeverbeentothebeachesinthesouthofFranceduringsummer,youwouldhaveinvariablybeenapproachedbyovertannedvendorscarryinglargecanebaskets,spruikingtheirappledoughnutsandcaramelisedpeanuts.Therereallyisnothingquitelikesittinginthesandinapairofglorifiedunderpants,munchingintoasoft,butterydoughnut,withthesmellofiodineandcoconutoilintheair!

Makes10–12

300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

1litre(35floz)canolaoil,fordeep-frying

Briochedough

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2teaspoonsfinesalt

2eggs

15g(½oz)driedyeast

175ml(5½floz)coldfull-creammilk

2teaspoonsnaturalvanillaextract

finelygratedzestof2lemons

75g(23/4oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LTomakethebriochedough,puttheflour,sugar,salt,eggsandyeastintothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined.

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Addthemilk,vanillaandlemonzestandcombine,thenaddthebutter,followingthemethodtomakethedough(totheendofthefirstprove).Theamountofbutterusedforthisrecipehasbeendrasticallyreducedfromthebasicrecipe,soitwillcookthroughmorequickly,andtooffsetsomeoftheadditionalfatthatisabsorbedduringthefryingprocess.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LFollowingthedividingandballingsteps,dividethecolddoughintosmall70g(2½oz)pieces,thenrollthemintotightballs.Placethebriocheballsontwobakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper,spacingthemabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPutthesugar,cinnamonandvanillabeanseedsinabowlandmixthoroughlybyrubbingthemixturebetweenthepalmsofyourhands.Thisensuresthevanillaseedsinfuseproperlyintothesugarandcinnamon.Setaside.

LHeattheoilinadeep-fryerorheavy-basedsaucepanto170°C(340°F).Workinginbatches,usethepalmofyourhandtogentlyflatteneachdoughballbeforegentlyslidingitintothehotoil.Beextremelycarefulnottodropthedoughballsfromaheightoryouwillsplashyourselfwithhotoil.Don’tfrytoomanyballsatonceortheoiltemperaturewilldropandthedoughnutswillabsorbtoomuchoil.Fryonesideforabout30seconds,thenflipthemoverandcookforanother1minute,oruntilgolden.Flipthembackagaintofinishcookingthefirstside.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowel.Tossthehotdoughnutsinthecinnamonsugarandserve.

servingtip

These cinnamondoughnuts can be served as they are, or filledwith a custard such as crèmepâtissière, strawberry jamor hazelnut and chocolatespread,aspicturedhere.Spoonthefillingintoapipingbagfittedwitha4mm(1/8in)plainnozzle.Usethetipofthenozzletopokeasmallholeinthesideofthedoughnut,thenpipethefillingintothecentre.

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Painsauxraisins

(Snails)Nottobeconfusedwiththemuchmaligned,butnonethelessdelicious,garlicsnail,thesesnails

(theliteraltranslationisraisinbread)areadeliciousviennoiseriemadefromabutteredpastrydough,custardandsultanas,rolledtogetherintoatightlyspiralledbun.EveryregionofFrancehasitspreferenceastowhattypeofdoughtheyuse,fromtherichandflakycroissantdoughusedinthesouth,tothefluffybriocheinthenorth.Althoughapainauxraisinsalwaysrelatestoacustardandraisinfilling,youwillfindasimilar-lookingproductcalledaroulade,whichcomeswithanalmostinfinitecombinationoffillings,frompistachioandchocolatetopralineandchocolate.

Inkeepingwiththeunderlyingphilosophyofthisbook,thisclassicsnailrecipeissimplyablueprintforyoutoexperimentwithdifferenttypesoffillingsandtexturalcombinations,fromalmondcreamsorcrushednuts,tofreshfruitsandexoticspices.Whateverfillingyouchoose,youwill(hopefully)alwaysendupwithafantasticallymoistanddeliciouspastry.

Makes10

500g(1lb2oz)BriocheDough

250g(9oz)sultanas(goldenraisins)orraisins

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

50ml(13/4floz)rum

350g(12oz)coldCustard

80ml(23/4floz)coldwhippingcream(35%fat)

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LYouwillalsoneedtorehydrateyoursultanasorraisinsthedaybefore.Putthesultanasinaheatproofbowl.Putthevanillabeans,rumand500ml(17floz)waterinasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Pouroverthesultanas,thenimmediatelycoverwithplasticwrap.Setasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthecustardonmediumspeedfor1minute,thenaddthecreamandbeatuntilsmoothandshiny.Mixinginthecoldcream

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helpspreventthemixturefromsettingagain.

LLinetwobakingtrayswithbakingpaperandsetaside.Ifyouarenotveryexperiencedwithrollingdough,youcandividethebriochedoughinhalftomakelifealittleeasier.Briocheissofterandstickierthanmostotherbreaddoughs,includingcroissantdough,soyouwillneedtouseabitmoreflourandtrytobequick!Rolloutthecoldbriochedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoarectangleabout3mm(1/8in)thick.Ifnecessary,stretchthedoughusingyourhandstoachievearectangularshape.Asaguide,theshapeshouldbetwiceaslongasitiswide—about15x30cm(6x12in).

LUsingaspatula,spreadthecustardoverthedough,righttotheedges.Don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtoachieveaperfectlysmooth,evenlayerofcustard,asyourpriorityistoworkfastwhilethebriocheisstillcoldandfirm.Drainthesultanaswell,thensprinklethemevenlyoverthecustard.Startingfromonelongside,rollthedoughintoatight,longroll.Therollshouldbe6–7cm(2½–23/4in)indiameter;ifitisanybigger,useyourhandstogentlystretchitoutuntilyoureachtherightthickness.Usingalargeknife,cuttherollinto3cm(1¼in)thickslicesandplaceonthelinedtrays,spacingtheslicesabout10cm(4in)apart.Coverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyhalf.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsaltinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Whentherollshaveproved,brushthemliberallywiththeeggwash.Bakefor15–20minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandtransfertowirerackstocool.Dependingonthesizeofyourovenandhowmanytraysyoucanbakeatonetime,keepyourunbakedsnailsinthefridge,tostopthemoverprovingwhiletheyarewaitingtogointotheoven.

Bakersandpastrychefsroutinelyaddasmallamountofalcoholtotheircreamsandpastries,tohelpreducetheperceivedsweetness(suchasthesultanasusedhere)orfattinessofaningredientorcream.Don’tbeconcernedaboutthealcoholcontent,becausemostofthealcoholwillevaporateduringthebakingprocessoncethetemperaturereaches78°C(172°F).Whenmakingganachesandcreams,alwaysmakesureyouaddanyliquorstoboilingliquids.

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P izzasbanane-chocolat

(Chocolateandbananapizzas)Iknowwhatyou’rethinking…thissoundsmorelikethelatestgimmickfromalargefast-food

pizzaconglomeratethanatypicalprovincialFrenchrecipe.Itmaysoundunusual,butIhaveactuallyseenachocolatepizzalistedonthemenuofalargepizzachainrestaurant,aswellasmacarons,crèmebrûlée,flansandmanyotherFrenchspecialtiesthatyouwouldn’texpecttofind.Infact,makingapizzaoutofbriochedoughleftovershasbeenacommonpracticeforcenturies.Today,thesesweetpizzasaretypicallysoldfromsmallvendorstallsatlocalmarketsorfairs,adornedwithfreshseasonalfruitsorchocolate-hazelnutpaste.

Makes2

250g(9oz)BriocheDough

2largeripebananas

50g(13/4oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

100g(3½oz)darkchocolate(70%cocoasolids),finelychopped

80ml(23/4oz)whippingcream(35%fat)

LPreparethebriochedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.Coverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.

LDividethebriochedoughinhalf,thenrolleachportionoutonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa15cm(6in)round.Placeonalargebakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper,thencoverwithadryclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasdoubledinsize.

LMeanwhile,cutthebananasinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Putthesugarandhalfofthebutterinalargefryingpanandcookovermediumheatuntilthebutterhasmelted.Addtheslicedbananasinasinglelayerandcookfor3–5minutes,oruntilgoldenbrown.Turnthebananasoverandcookuntilgoldenontheotherside,thenremovefromthepanandplaceinasinglelayeronaplatetocool.

LPutthechocolateandtheremainingbutterinasmallsaucepanandstiroververylowheatuntilmeltedandsmooth.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

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LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Whenthedoughhasproved,useyourfingertipstomakesmallcratersalloverthepizzabases;thispreventsthecreamfromrunningoffthepizzaduringbaking.Arrangethecaramelisedbananasevenlyoverthetopofthepizzas.

LBakefor10minutes,thenopentheoven,slideoutthepizzasonthetrayanddrizzlethecreamoverthetop.Bakeforanother10minutes,oruntilgoldenandbubbling.Ifthepizzatopscaramelisebeforethebasesarecooked,coverlooselywithapieceoffoil;thiswilldeflecttheheatfromthetopandstopthecaramelisation.Removefromtheoven,drizzlewiththemeltedchocolatemixtureandserveimmediately.

tip

Asanalternative,youcanreplace thebananaswithpears,andthechocolatewithahazelnutspread.Other flavourcombinationsyoumight likeareapple,rhubarbandalmondcream;orhoney,ricottacheeseandorangezest.

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Pastislandais

(Frenchpanettone)NottobeconfusedwiththealcoholicbeveragefromProvenceofthesamename,thepastis

referredtointhisbriochemeans‘cake,’atranslationofthelocaldialectofLandesdeGascogne,aregioninthesouth-westofFrance.Unliketheotherbriochesinthischapter,pastislandaisismadeusingapoolishstarter,amethodtraditionallyusedinthemanufactureofsemi-sourbreads,someofwhichareincludedinthebreadchapter.Whilealittlemorecomplicatedtomake,briochesurpoolisharewellworththeadditionaleffort.Withtheirdense,creamytextureandslighttouchofsourness,theyhavetheaddedadvantageofstayingsoftforfarlongerthantheirtraditionalyeast-provedcousins.ThisrecipeisactuallyalmostidenticaltothefamedItalianChristmasbrioche,panettone,butdoesn’tcontainanyofthecandiedfruitsandraisinstypicallyused—justlotsofbutterandeggs,agenerousdashoforangeblossomwater,andsomerumforgoodmeasure.

Makes1largeor18small

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

200g(7oz)pearlsugar(seetip)

Poolish

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

10g(¼oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)tepidwater

Brioche

125ml(4floz)full-creammilk

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

40ml(1¼floz)rum

250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar

40ml(1¼floz)orangeblossomwater

5eggs

750g(1lb10oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

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3teaspoonsfinesalt

130g(4½oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled

LTomakethepoolish,puttheflour,yeastandtepidwaterinabowlandstiruntilasoft,stickypasteforms.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LTomakethebriochedough,putthemilk,vanillabeans,rumandsugarinasaucepanandstirovermediumheatfor2–3minutes,oruntilwarm,thenremovefromtheheat.Thisprocessisonlymeanttodissolvethesugarandsoftenthevanillabeans,sodon’tbetemptedtobringittotheboil.Removethevanillabeansandusethebackofasmallknifetoscrapetheseedsout.Addtheseedstothemilkanddiscardthebeans,thenstirintheorangeblossomwaterandsetaside.

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithawhiskattachment,whisktheeggsonmediumspeedfor2minutes,oruntilthemixturebeginstofoam.Reducethespeedtolowandgraduallyaddthetepidmilk.Becareful;ifthemilkishotterthan65°C(150°F)theeggswillcook,sotoensureitisattherighttemperature,dipyourfingerintothemilkfor30seconds—ifitistoohotforyou,itistoohotfortheeggs!

LStillonlowspeed,addtheprovedpoolishandmixuntilwellcombined.Swapthewhiskforthedoughhookattachment,thenaddtheflourandsaltandmixforanother2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandknead,scrapingthesideofthebowloccasionally,for10–12minutes,oruntilsmoothandglossy.Addthemeltedbutterandcontinuemixingonlowspeed,scrapingthesideofthebowl,untilfullycombined.Coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2–3hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LScrapethedoughoutofthebowlontoagenerouslyflouredworksurface.Knockoutasmuchgasasyoucanbypunchingdownthedough,thenfoldthesidesovertothemiddle,dustingwithextraflourwhennecessary.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F).Greaseadeep12x26cm(4½x10½in)caketinoruse18individualpanettoneormuffinpapercups(thesearesturdyanddon’tneedtositinatin).Unliketraditionalbrioche,thisdoughisalotsofterandcannotbeballedintoshape.Todivide,simplysoakyourhandsincoldwaterandshakeofftheexcesswater,thentakeasmallhandfulofdoughanddropitinthepreparedtinormuffincasesuntiltwo-thirdsfull.Youcanuseanymould,tinorpapercup,butneverfillthemhigherthantwo-thirdsorthebriochewilloverflowduringbaking.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor2–3hours,oruntilthedoughhasreachedthetopofthetinorpapercups.

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LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl,thensetasidefor5minutes.Brushtheeggwashoverthetopofthebrioche,then,usingapairofscissorsdippedineggwash,cutacrossshapeabout2cm(3/4in)deeponthetop.Sprinklewithpearlsugarandbakefor45minutesforalargebrioche,or20–25minutesforindividualbrioches.Removefromtheovenandplaceonawireracktocool.Ifyouhavebakedthebriocheinatin,removeitfromthetinasearlyaspossible,butdon’tburnyourselfintheprocess.

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Pains

‘Withbread,allsorrowsareless.’

DONQUIXOTE,MIGUELDECERVANTES

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Paindecampagne(Countrybread)

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Pains

(Breads)

Whilenotallofthelocalspecialtiesincludedinthisbookhaveenjoyedthesamelevelofglobalrecognitionasthecroissantorlemontart,theyarenonethelessbasedonage-oldrecipesthathave,overtheyears,cementedthemselvesdeeplyinthelocalgastronomicpsyche.Noneofthem,however,willeverachievethenotorietythatbreadhasenjoyed.BreadissomuchapartoftheFrenchgastronomicandculturallandscapethatit’seasytoforgetthat,forthousandsofyears,peoplefromeverycivilisationaroundtheworldhaveincludedbread,inoneformoranother,asanintegralpartoftheirdailydiet.Itistrulyremarkablethatsuchaseeminglysimpleconcoctionhasnotonlywithstoodthetestoftime,butalsomanagedtoplaysuchacrucialroleinthedevelopmentofsomanycivilisations.

Itiseasytooverlookthefactthatthehumbleloafofbreadwejustboughtfromanartisanbakeristheresultofyearsofpracticewithcountlesstrialsanderrors.Moreimportantly,therecipesusedtomakethesebreadshaveoftenbeenperfected,sometimesovergenerations,basedonthebakery’sownclimaticenvironment,localingredientsandequipment.Thatbeingsaid,makingbreadisanincrediblyrewardingexercisethatcanbeenjoyedbythewholefamily,andprovidingthatyoustartatthebeginningandtakethetimetofamiliariseyourselfwiththesubtletiesofyouringredientsandequipment,yourbread-makingjourneywillrewardyouwithsomeofthesamesimplepleasuresthatpeoplehaveenjoyedforsomanyyears.

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Nowadays,therearecountlesstypesofbread,eachwiththeirownflavourandtextureprofiles,varyingdegreesofdifficultyandtimelineconstraints.Tosimplifythings,Ihavedividedbreadsintothreebasiccategories.

Painméthodedirecte(Bread,directmethod):

Thisisbyfarthesimplestandmostpopularmethodofmakingbread.Itreliesentirelyontheadditionofyeastforthefermentationprocess(proving).Thisisanidealmethodforamateurbakerstouse,becauseitisverypredictable,fastandalmostfailproof.Breadsmadewiththismethod,suchasthebaguette,areusuallyverylightandairy,withathin,crispycrust,buttheyhaveashortshelflifeanddon’thavethesamedepthofflavourasbreadsmadeusingtheothermethods.

Thetasteandtextureofbreadsmadeusingthedirectprovingmethodcanbefurtherimprovedbyreducingtheamountofyeast,butthisprocesswilldramaticallylengthentheprovingprocessandthebreadswillbemuchmorevulnerabletoenvironmentalfactorssuchasvariationsintemperatureorhumidity(formoreinformationonyeast).

Painsurpoolish(Semi-sourdoughbread):

Thisismyfavouritemethod.Thisbreadreliesontheadditionofapoolish,averylightlyyeastedlevain(starter)foritsfermentationprocess.Itisstillveryquicktoprove,butitproducesabreadthatismore‘creamier’andfull-bodied,withalightsourtangandcrunchycrust.Thismethodisusuallycalledàl’ancienne,probablyduetoitsmorerusticappearanceandgivesyouthebestofbothworlds—aquickandpredictablefermentingprocessandabeautifullycrispyandtastyloaf.

Thepoolishisapre-fermentmethodroutinelyusedinFranceforthemanufactureofanythingyeasted,frombriochetocroissants,breadstofougasse.Personally,Ithinktheslightlyheaviercrumbandsourtastethatyougetwhenusingthismethodisbettersuitedtorusticbreadloavesmoresothansubtleviennoiseriessuchascroissantsorbrioche,wheretheaddedsourness,howeversmall,detractsfromtheirwonderfullybutteryundertonesandfluffiness.Onceagain,it’sapersonalpreferenceandfirstandforemost,thepoolishmethodisagreatwaytogentlytransitionintothecomplexworldofbacterialfermentationanditswonderfulflavoursandtextures.

Painaulevain(Fullsourdoughbread):

Makingbreadwithafulllevain(starter)wastheonlymethodavailableuntiltheinventionofcommercialyeastearlyinthetwentiethcentury.Thefermentationprocessreliesonalevainchef,apre-fermentmadeofflourandwaterwithoutadditionofyeast,

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whichhasbeenlefttoageoverfourorfivedays.Makingfullsourdoughbreadrequirestime,patience(fivedaysforthepre-fermentandupto20hoursproving),dedicationand,mostimportantofall,aheavyfirebrickoven.Breadsmadewithafullstarterwilltendtohaveadenserandmuchsourercrumbandachewiercrust.

L

Ihavebeenfortunateenoughtohaveworkedwithsomeamazingbakers,bothinFranceandAustralia,overthecourseofmycareerandIamyettotastean‘OK’loafoffullsourdoughbread.Loavesthatrelyentirelyonalevaincheffortheirfermentationsareeitheramazingorjustplainbad,andwhenconsideringthefactthatmosthomebakerswon’thaveaccesstotheequipmentrequiredtomakeasuccessfulloaf,theinevitableconclusionisthatyouwillmostlikelybedisappointedwiththeresult.Iamawarethatthisisprobablygoingtogetmeintrouble,butItrulybelievethatcookbooksshouldbemotivationaltools,aimedatgraduallybuildingtheskillsandconfidenceoftheirreadersbyprovidingachievablegoals,takingintoaccountthelevelofskillrequiredandthetypeofequipmentrequired.

Consequently,Ihavechosentoincludeonlythequickandalmostfailproofbreadrecipesthatarebasedonthedirectandsemi-sourdoughmethods.Ifeeltheserecipesareeasilyachievableforthehomecookandwillhopefullyprovideyouwiththeskillsandconfidencetoexperimentwithmoretechnicallychallengingsourdoughsinthefuture.

Allfermentsarenotcreatedequal

Nottoputtoofineapointonmyreluctancetoincludefullsourdoughsinthisbook…but,rememberthatyeastsandbacteriaareallaroundus—inthewaterandair—andinalltheingredientsusedinthemanufactureofthebread.Assuch,eachlevainwillfermentbasedonitsownindigenousyeastandbacterialcontent,sothereforearecipedesignedinFrancewillnottasteorprovewiththesamecharacteristicsasonemadeanywhereelse.

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Painméthodedirecte

(Bread,directmethod)Practical,fastandalmostfailproof,thedirectmethodisthebestwaytostartyourbread-baking

journey.Thesebreads,withtheirthincrispycrust,whitecrumbandrelativelymildflavour,haveamuchbroaderappealinFrancethanthemorepungentsourbreads,whichtendtooverpowerthesubtletiesofthefoodtheyaresupposedtocomplement.Thefollowingstepswillclarifyhowtokneadyourdoughand,justasimportantly,howtoshapeit.

Makes800g(1lb12oz)

500g(1lb2oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

350ml(12floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

8g(¼oz)driedyeast

10g(¼oz)finesalt

Makingthedough

BymixerUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhook,mixtheflourand300ml(10½floz)ofthecoldwateronlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilaroughdoughforms.Coverthebowlwithacleandampclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes(seetip).

Puttheyeastandtheremainingwaterinasmallbowlandwhiskuntilfullydissolved.Addtothehydrateddough,thenaddthesaltandkneadonlowspeedfor10minutes.Increasethespeedtomediumandknead for another2minutes,oruntil thedough is smoothandelastic andcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Becarefulnottooverheatthedough;regularlycheckforanysignofheatbytestingitwiththebackofyourindexfinger.Stopkneadingif thedoughfeels likeit iswarmingup.Shapethedoughintoaball.

ByhandPuttheflourontheworksurfaceandmakeawellinthemiddle.Slowlyadd300ml(10½floz)ofthewater(photo1).Usingyourfingertips,starttoincorporatetheflourintothewater(2).Atthisstage,don’tworryifsomeofthewaterescapesfromthewell;simplyscrapeitbackinsideyour flourwell and continue incorporating and binding the dough together.Using the heel ofyourhand,pressthedoughroughlytogether(3),thencoverwithadampclothandrestfor35–40minutes(seetip).

Shapethedoughintoadiscwithslightlyelevatedsides.Puttheyeastandremainingwaterintoasmallbowlandwhiskuntilfullydissolved(4).Pourthedissolvedyeastontothedough(5), thenaddthesaltandgentlypullthesidesofthedoughtowardsthemiddle(6)toincorporatetheliquid

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into thedough.At this stage thedoughwillbesoftand tacky, sobegin thekneadingprocessbygentlypushingthedoughacrosstheworksurfacewiththepalmofyourhand,foldingthedoughoveritself(7)untilitbecomesmoreelastic.Then,pushthedoughawayfromyouwiththeheelofyourhandandbring theoutside edgesof thedough towards themiddle (8), until thedough issmoothandstopssticking.Thisprocessshouldtake15–20minutes.Shapethedoughintoaball(9).

Windowpanetest

Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(photo4).Ifnot,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.

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1

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2 3

4 5

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6 7

8 9

cookingtip:

LAftertheflourandwaterhavebeenkneaded,thedoughmustbelefttorest.Thiscrucialstepis‘autolyse’andisdesignedtohydratetheflourandimproveglutendevelopment.Doughkneadedwithoutthisstepwillneedalongermixingtime,whichoftenleadstoaweakeningoftheyeast.

Firstprove

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Placethedoughinalightlyflouredbowlandcoverwithacloth.Setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyhalf.Thetimethistakeswilldependonthetemperatureofthedoughandyourkitchen.

Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist,thenremoveasmuchgasasyoucanbyfoldingthedoughoverafewtimes.Thisfirstprove(pointage)isanessentialpartoftheleaveningprocessandislargelydesignedtorefinethefinaltextureofthebread.Duringthisstage,theyeastfungi are still relatively clumped together andwill create large bubbles of gas (carbon dioxide),resultinginanirregularbreadstuddedwithlargeholes.Theprocessofknockingthedoughdownis largelyaimedatspreadingthefungiaroundthedough,resultinginabreadwithadenserandmorerefinedtexture.

Dividingandballingthedough

Allbreadsneedtobedividedintotheappropriatesizeand‘balled’,aprocessaimedattighteningthedoughprior to the final shapingofeach individualproduct. (Doughs for flatbreads suchaspizzaandfougassedonotneed‘balling’,asthiswilldevelopthegluten,makingitdifficulttorollthedoughout flat.)Although it is difficult to accurately describe the balling techniqueusedbyprofessionalbakers,aslongasyouknowthattheaimoftheprocessistostretchtheglutenratherthanmakeaniceroundball,yourtechniquewilldevelopwithexperience.

Place the dough on a lightly flouredwork surface and shape it into an even log (photo1) — itdoesn’tmatterwhatsize,thisisjusttohelpyoucutevenportionsofdough.Useaplasticscraperorsmallknifetocutthedoughintothesizeneeded(2). Ifyouaremakingonesingle loaf,skipthiscuttingstep.

Removeanyexcessflourfromtheworksurface.Takeaportionofdoughinthecuppedpalmofyourhandandflattenslightly,thenbringtheoutsideedgesintothemiddleandpinchtoseal(3).Turntheballoveranddragthebaseovertheworksurfaceseveraltimes(4)—thiswillensureanyairbubblestrappedinthemiddlearereleasedandyoudon’tendupwithabigholeinthemiddleofthebread.

Ifyouaremakingafullloaf,applythesameballingtechniqueasabove,butusethewholeamountofdough.Usebothyourhandstorunthedoughballovertheworksurface,tostretchthedoughandtightenupyourloaf.

Placetheballs,seamsidedown,onalightlyflouredtray,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

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1 2

3 4

moreonyeast:

LTounderstandthecorrelationbetweenthedosageofyeastandflavour,youneedtounderstandhowdoughferments.Yeasteddoughsrelymainlyonfungustometabolisesugarsintogases(carbondioxideandethanol),whicharethentrappedbytheglutenduringbaking.Thesegases,alongwithsteam,helpthedoughtorise.

Thesournessanddepthofflavouraretheresultofaslowbacterialprocessthatturnssugarintolactic

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acidandasmallamountofcarbondioxideandethanol.Thelessyeastyouaddtoadough,thelongerthedoughwilltaketoprove,andthereforethemoretimeforlacticacidtobuildup.Thiswillresultinabreadwithamorecomplexflavourandcreamierflesh.So,ifyoupreferabreadwithslightundertonesofsourness(butarenotyetconfidentwiththeprocessofpre-fermentationneededforsemi-orsourdoughbreads)andhavealotmoretimeonyourhands,simplyreducetheinitialamountofyeast.Asanapproximateguideline,every1g(1/32oz)reductioninyeastwillincreasetheprovingtimebyanhour.

provingtimes:

flour yeast firstprove500g(1lb2oz) 8g 1hour500g(1lb2oz) 7g 2hours500g(1lb2oz) 6g 3hours500g(1lb2oz) 5g 4hours

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Painsurpoolish

(Semi-sourdoughbread)AsImentionedearlier,thisismyfavouritemethodofmakingbread.Painssurpoolishare

breadsthatrelyonacombinationofyeastandpre-fermentfortheirfermentationprocess.Thedifferenceisthatunlikethepuresourferment,thepoolishitselfcontainsasmallamountofyeast,whichwillnotonlygiveyouabutteryandlightcrumb,acrispcrustandabeautifulsubtlesourness,butalsoafasterandmoreconsistentfermentationprocess.

Makes500g(1lb2oz)

note:Thismethodisdoneintwostages:firstthepoolish,whichwillneedtofermentovernight,andthenthe

finaldough.

Poolish

1g(1/32oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

Dough

200g(7oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

3g(1/10oz)driedyeast

Makingthepoolishanddough

Tomakethepoolish,puttheyeastandcoldwaterinamediumbowlandstiruntilfullydissolved.Add the flourandwhiskgentlyuntil a soft, stickypaste forms.Thisprocess is extremely simpleandaslongastheflouriswetandtheyeasthasdissolved,itisalwaysgoingtowork.Coverwithaclothorplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.Alternatively,ifyouareinahurry,leavethepoolishat room temperature for 3 hours, or until it triples in volume. The following day, remove thepoolishfromthefridge.Bynowitshouldhavetripledinsize(photo1).

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Tomakethedough,puttheflour,coldwater,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment(2)andmixonlowspeedfor10minutes.

Addthepoolish(3), increasethespeedtomediumandkneadforanother5–6minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl(4).

Windowpanetest

Tocheckwhetherthedoughiskneadedproperly,usethe‘windowpane’test.Holdasmallpieceofdoughinyourhandsandstretchthedoughuntilitisalmostthinenoughtoseethrough(photo4).Ifnot,continuekneadingforanother2minutes.

Provingthedough

Remove thedoughhook anddust a little flourover thedough, then coverwith a cloth and setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes.Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownbyusingyourhandtopushthemiddleofthedoughdown,thenfoldthesidestowardsthecentretoremoveasmuchgasaspossible.

Coverandsetasideforanother45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize,thenknockthedoughdownagain.Thedoughisnowreadytobedividedandballed.

1 2

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3 4

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Michetraditionnelleauxnoixetauxraisins

(Traditionalwalnutandraisinloaf)Thisisagreatrecipetostartwith.Thisbasicmethodisidealifyouhaven’tpreparedapoolish

thedaybeforeandwanttobakealoaforsmallbreadrollsfordinnerorapicnicatshortnotice.Inafewhoursyouwillhaveabeautifullycrustyloafwithasoft,airycrumbthatisjustasdelicioustoastedwithbutterandjamasitisservedwithcheesesorliverparfaits.

Makes1loaf

800g(1lb12oz)BreadDough,directmethod

100g(3½oz)walnuts,lightlyroasted

100g(3½oz)raisinsorsultanas(goldenraisins)

spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater

LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthe‘windowpane’test.Withthedoughstillinthebowloftheelectricmixer(fittedwithadoughhookattachment),addthewalnutsandraisinsandmixonlowspeedfor2minutes,oruntilevenlydispersed.Followthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.

LTransferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandproceedwiththeballingprocess.Linealargebowl,about25cm(10in)indiameter,withalightlyflouredcloth.Gentlytipthedoughupsidedownintothelinedbowlsothatthebottomoftheloaffacesup.Coverwithanotherlightlyflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–1½hours,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifthedoughisready,gentlypushitwiththepalmofyourhand;itshouldfeelsoftbutthedoughshouldstillspringbacktoitsoriginalshape.Ifthedoughfeelshardanddense,itisnotready.

LPreheattheovento240°C(465°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Holdthebowlwithonehandandresttheotherhandgentlyontopofthedoughwithyourfingersspreadapart,thencarefullytipthedoughontoalightlyflouredbakingtray.Dustalittleflouroverthetopofthedough.Usingasharpparingknife,cutacrossinthetopoftheloaf.

LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor20–25minutes.Tocheckifthebreadisready,opentheovendoorandtapthecrustwithyourindexfinger.Thebreadisreadywhenthecrustfeelshardandtheloafsoundshollowanddry.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforatleast5

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minutesbeforeslicing,orthesteamthatistrappedinsidetheloafmayburnyou.

scoringtheloaves

Traditionallybreadisbakeddirectlyonthebricksonthebaseoftheovenandtheintenseheatgeneratedfromthebottomformsathickskin,forcingthesteamupwardsthroughthethinnerskinonthetop(thereis lessheatinthetopoftheoven).Inconvection(fan-forced)andstaticovenstheheatisdispersedevenlyaroundtheoven,sotheskinthickensuniformlyaroundtheloaf,trappingthesteamandturningitintotheshapeofafootball.Scoringtheloafpriortobakingweakenstheskinandallowsthesteamtoescapesothebreadretainsitsshapeduringbaking.

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Paindecampagne

(Countrybread)Thepaindecampagneistheiconofruralbaking,andwhilethisrusticbreadhasenjoyeda

trendyresurgenceinthelastfewyears,itisstillbestenjoyedwithaheartysouporstewduringthoselongwinternights,deepinthecountryside.

Makes1loaf

Poolish

1g(1/32oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

50g(13/4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

50g(13/4oz)ryeflour

Dough

150g(5½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

50g(13/4oz)ryeflour

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

2g(1/16oz)driedyeast

spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater

LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod,addingintheryeflourwiththeplainflour.Coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.Tomakethedough,followthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.

LTransferthedoughtoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandproceedwiththeballingprocess.Linealargebowl,about25cm(10in)indiameter,withalightlyflouredcloth.Gentlytipthedoughupsidedownintothelinedbowlsothatthebottomoftheloaffacesup.Coverwithanotherlightlyflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.Tocheckifthedoughisready,gentlypushitwiththepalmofyourhand;itshouldfeelsoftbutthedoughshouldstillspringbacktoitsoriginalshape.Ifthedoughfeelshardanddense

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itisnotready.

LPreheattheovento230°C(445°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Holdthebowlwithonehandandresttheotherhandgentlyontopofthedoughwithyourfingersspreadapart,thencarefullytipthedoughontoalightlyflouredbakingtray.Dustalittleflouroverthetopofthedough.Usingasharpparingknife,cutacrossinthetopoftheloaf.

LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor20–25minutes.Tocheckifthebreadisready,opentheovendoorandtapthecrustwithyourindexfinger.Thebreadisreadywhenthecrustfeelshardandtheloafsoundshollowanddry.Removefromtheovenandsetasideforatleast5minutesbeforeslicing,orthesteamthatistrappedinsidetheloafmayburnyou.

Whyrye?Ryeflourwasusedextensivelyinthepastduetoitsrelativelylowcostofprocessingandstrongresiliencetowinterconditions.Nowadays,ryeflourisaddedtosemi-sourorsourdoughbreadsfortwomainreasons.Firstly,itcontainslessglutenthanwheatandisthereforelessproficientatretainingthegascreatedduringthefermentationprocess,whichgivesthebreadadenserfleshwithsmallerholes,thushelpingextenditsshelflife.Secondly,itcontainsmoresolublesugarsthanwheatandthereforefermentsfaster.

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Fougasseauxolives

(Provençalolivebread)WhilstfougasseauxolivesiscommonlyfoundinProvencetodayinitsdistinctivewheatkernel

shape,verymuchlikethefabledpompeàl’huile,similarbreadsarefoundallaroundtheMediterraneanbasin,fromItaly(focaccia)totheBalkans(pogaca).Fougasseisaverysimplebreadmadeusingthedirectmethod,withaddedoil,sugarorbutter.Traditionallyitwastoppedwithvegetablesorfruitsandwasmadeatthestartofthenightandthrownintotheoventoassesstheaccuracyofthetemperatureoftheoven.

Makes1loaf

50ml(13/4floz)full-creammilk

2teaspoonsfleurdesel,orothersaltflakes(donotusefinesalt)

2thymesprigs,leavespicked

spraybottlefilledwithwarmwater

Dough

350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

150ml(5floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

70ml(2¼floz)virginoliveoil

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

3g(1/10oz)driedyeast

100g(3½oz)pittedblackorgreenolives,coarselychopped

LTomakethedough,puttheflour,water,oliveoil,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandmixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor8–10minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.Addthechoppedolivesandkneadgentlywithonehanduntiltheolivesareevenlydispersedthroughthedough.

LPlacethedoughonalightlyflouredworksurface,thensprinklealittleextraflouroverthe

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top.Usingyourpalms,flattenthedoughintoa2cm(3/4in)thickrectangle.Don’tworryaboutmakingittooeven,asthisbreadissupposedtolookrustic.Transfertoalightlyflouredbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F)foratleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Usingasmall,sharpknife,cutfourdiagonalincisionsonbothsidesofthedoughtoresembleawheatkernel.Brushthetopwiththemilk,thensprinklewiththesaltandthymeleaves.

LPlaceonthebottomshelfoftheovenandspraywaterintotheovenfor5seconds(seetip),thenquicklyclosetheovendoor.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilthetopofthefougassebeginstobrown.Unlikeotherloavesorrollsthataremadeusingthesamedough,thethinshapeofthefougassemeansitcooksalotfaster,sokeepaneyeonit—oneofthemaincharacteristicsoffougasseisitslightcolour.Removefromtheovenandsetasideuntilcool.

addingsteam

Addingsteamto theoven isbeneficial for two reasons.Firstly,humiditydelays thedryingupof thedough’s skinand thishelps thebreaddevelopproperly.Secondly,thewaterintheoven(assteam)willgelatinisethestarchintheflour,whichgivesthefinishedbreadaglossycrust.

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P issaladière

(Onionandanchovyfocaccia)PissaladièreisaniconicfougassefromNice,inthesouthofFrance.Oftenmistakenlycalleda

pizza,itisactuallymadeonathickbreadorafougassebase—unlikepizzaswhicharetraditionallybakedonathinandcrispydough—andthentoppedwithasmallamountofanchovypasteandathicklayerofconfitonions.Evenif,likeme,you’renotafanofanchovies,thiswilltakeyoubysurprise.It’slight,justsweetandjustsaltyenough,ittastesliketheearthandtheseaallatonce,anditwillleaveyouwithanosefullofnuttyandfruityaromas.Nothingtastesquiteasgoodaseatingapissaladièrewithaglassofredwine,lounginginalongchairunderashadytree,justbeforetakinganap.

Serves4–6

50ml(13/4floz)virginoliveoil

1kg(2lb4oz)brownonions,thinlysliced

1teaspoongroundblackpepper

salt,totaste

100g(3½oz)anchovypaste(soldinjarsortubes)

100g(3½oz)smallblackolives,pitted

6–8anchovyfillets

6thymesprigs,leavespicked

Dough

350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

190ml(6½floz)full-creammilk

30g(1oz)caster(superfine)sugar

40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter

3g(1/10oz)driedyeast

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

LTomakethedough,puttheflourandmilkinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Mixonlowspeedforabout5minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthebowlwithacleandampclothandsetasidetorestfor40minutes.

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LAddthesugar,butter,yeastandsalttothehydrateddoughandmixonlowspeeduntilwellcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadforabout10minutes,oruntilthedoughbeginstobindaroundthedoughhookandstartstocomeawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Coverthebowlwithaflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.Knockthedoughdown,thencoverwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforatleast2hours,oruntilfirmtothetouch.

LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa5mm(¼in)thickrectanglemeasuringabout20x30cm(8x12in).Feelfreetouseyourhandstostretchthedoughintoshape.Placeonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaperandfreezefor1hour,oruntilfirm.

LMeanwhile,heattheoliveoilinalargeheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatfor1minute.Addtheonionsandpepperandcombinewell.Reducetheheattomedium,thencoverandcook,stirringoccasionally,for20–25minutes,oruntiltheonionsaregoldenandsoftenedalmosttoapurée.Removefromtheheat,seasonwithjustalittlesalt,rememberingtheanchovypasteisalreadyquitesalty,andsetasideuntilcool.

LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingthebread.Removethedoughfromthefreezerandspreadtheanchovypasteevenlyoverthetop.Theanchovypastebalancesoutthesweetnessoftheonions,butcanveryquicklyoverpowertherestoftheflavours,somakesureitisappliedverythinly.Scatteroverthecaramelisedonionsandtheolives,thenarrangetheanchoviesevenlyacrossthetop.

LSetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor30minutes,oruntilthedoughbeginstoriseagain.Bakefor20minutes,oruntilthebottomofthepissaladièrebeginstobrown.Removefromtheoven,scatterwiththymeandcooltoroomtemperature,thencutintosquaresandserve.

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Fougasseausucre

(Sugarfougasse)Baking,atleastforme,isnotsomuchabouthowintricateacertainpastryisorhowrusticaloaf

ofbreadlooks—itgoesfarbeyondthesurfaceofwhatwecansee.Cherishedmomentsfromourchildhood,longsincefaded,canoftenbebroughtbackwithstartlingclarityjustbythesimpleactofbitingintoacertainbiscuitorthearomaofacakebakingintheoven.Eventoday,wheneverIsmellafougasse,I’mtakenbacktothetimeswhenmysisterandIstayedatmygrandparents’houseinasmallvillageinProvence.EverySundaymorningwelikedtolazeinourbeds,listeningoutforthesoundofthebaker’shornashestoppedhistruckinthevillagesquare.Weknewthatwhenweeventuallygotuptherewouldbetwoslicesofcrunchy,butteryfougassewaitingforusonthekitchentable.Wewouldnoisilydevourourfougassewithabowlofchocolatchaud,whilemygrandfathersilentlyreadhispaperandmygrandmotherporedoverthecrossword,justastheydideverySundaymorning.

Makes2loaves

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

100ml(3½oz)whippingcream(35%fat)

Dough

350g(12oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

190ml(6½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

70g(2½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

30ml(1floz)virginoliveoil

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

3g(1/10oz)driedyeast

40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LTomakethedough,puttheflour,water,sugar,oliveoil,saltandyeastinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Mixonlowspeedfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Increasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor8–10minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Duringthekneadingstage,scrapethedoughfromthehookandthesideofthebowltwoorthreetimes.Addthe40g(1½oz)ofbutterand

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kneadforanother2–3minutes,oruntilthebutterhasbeenabsorbedintothedough.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaflouredclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilthedoughhasincreasedbytwo-thirds.

LDividethedoughinhalf.Placeoneportiononalightlyflouredworksurface,thensprinklealittleextraflouroverthetop.Usingyourpalms,flattenthedoughintoaroundabout2cm(3/4in)thick.Don’tworryaboutmakingittooeven,asthisbreadissupposedtolookrustic.Repeatwiththeremainingdough.Transfertotwolightlyflouredbakingtraysandfreezefor20minutes,oruntilthedoughhardensslightly.

LMeanwhile,putthebutterandsugarinasmallsaucepanandstiroverlowheatuntilmelted.Don’tboilthemixtureasthisdissolvesthesugarintothebutterand,asaresult,thebreadwillloseitscrunchytop.Removefromtheheatandsetasideuntilcooltothetouch.Removethedoughfromthefreezerandspreadhalfthesugarandbuttermixtureevenlyacrossthetopofeach,thencoverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento200°C(400°F)atleast30minutesbeforebakingtheloaf.Whenthedoughhasproved,useyourfingertipstomakesmallcratersalloverthefougasse,about5cm(2in)apart;thispreventsthecreamfromrunningoffthesidesofthebreadduringthefinalstageofbaking.Bakefor10minutes,thenopentheovendoorandpourthecreamevenlyoverthetopofeachhotfougasse.Bakeforanother10minutes,oruntilthesidesofthebreadbegintoturngolden.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

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P izzaMargherita

(Margheritapizza)Thismostfamousofpizzahaswithstoodthetestoftimeandthefutilitiesoffadstoremainthe

pizzaofchoicetheworldoverformorethan100years.Itshistoryiswellknown.MadeinhonourofQueenMargheritaofSavoyduringoneofhervisitstotheItaliancityofNaples,itwastoppedwithtomatoes,basilandmozzarellatoemulatethecoloursofthenationalflag.Whetherbycoincidenceofpuregeniusornot,thiscombinationofflavours,texturesandcolourshascometoillustratehowrestraintandhumility,whenusedproperly,arefarbetterthananylonglistofingredientsormethodology—twosimpleattributesthatsometimesrequirealifetimeoflearning,afactpoignantlycapturedbytheSpanishpainterPicassowhenhesaid,‘IttookmefouryearstopaintlikeRaphael,butalifetimetopaintlikeachild’.

Makesthree30cm(12in)pizzas

Dough

100ml(3½floz)virginoliveoil

500ml(17floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

1kg(2lb4oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

5g(1/8oz)driedyeast

20g(3/4oz)finesalt

Toppings

400g(14oz)freshbuffalomozzarella,cutinto5mm(¼in)slices

30basilleaves

Sauce

2tablespoonsvirginoliveoil,plusextra,fordrizzling

2brownonions,halvedandthinlysliced

2garliccloves,thinlysliced

800g(1lb12oz)trusstomatoes,coarselychopped

2teaspoonsdriedoregano

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3thymesprigs,leavespicked

finesaltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

10basilleaves,finelychopped

LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthe‘windowpane’test.Notethatwhilethisrecipeisslightlydifferent,theprocessremainsthesame.Simplyaddtheoiltothewater,thenmixwiththeflour,yeastandsalt.

LPlacethedoughinalightlyflouredbowlandcoverwithacloth.Setasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntilrisenbyone-third.Whenthedoughhasrisen,knockitdownwithyourfist.Followingthedividingandballingmethod,dividethedoughintothreeequalportions,thenshapethedough.Coverandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor15minutes.

LMeanwhile,tomakethesauce,heattheoliveoilinalargefryingpanovermediumheat.Addtheonionsandgarlicandcook,stirringcontinuously,for5–8minutes,oruntilgolden.Addthechoppedtomatoes,oreganoandthyme,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Rememberthatthesaucewilllosevolumeasthewaterevaporates,soalwaysholdbackalittleontheseasoninguntilthesaucehasfinishedcooking.Reducetheheattolow,thencoverandsimmerfor10minutes.Removethelid,increasetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringcontinuouslyuntilathickpasteforms.Stirinthebasilandchecktheseasoning,thentransfertoabowlandleavetocool.Refrigerateuntilcold.

LPreheattheovento240°C(465°F).Ideally,placeapizzastoneorheavy-basedbakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheoventopreheatatthesametime.Thishelpsthepizzabasetocookquickly,whichmeansitremainscrispafterbaking.

LRolloutthethreedoughportionsonalightlyflouredworksurfaceinto3mm(1/8in)thickrounds.Usealittleextraflourwhennecessarytostopthedoughfromsticking.Placetherolleddoughonthree30cm(12in)pizzatrays,thenuseyourhandstostretchthedoughbackintoshape.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor30minutes,oruntilincreasedinsizebyhalf.

LUnlessyourovenisbigenoughtocookallthreepizzasatthesametime,it’sbesttocookonepizzaatatime,thenprepareanotheronewhileitiscooking.Usingthebackofaspoon,spreadthesauceoverthepizzabase,leavinga2cm(3/4in)borderaroundtheedge(thedark,crunchycrustisactuallythetastiestpartofapizza!).Topwithmozzarellabutdon’tgetcarriedaway,becausetoomuchcheesewillnotonlyoverpowerthesharpnessofthetomatosauce,butitwillalsomakeitdifficultforthepizzastocookproperly.

LPlaceonthehotpizzastoneorbakingtrayonthebottomshelfoftheovenandbakefor12–

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15minutes,oruntilthebaseisgolden.Removefromtheoven,scatterwithbasilleavesanddrizzlewithalittleoliveoil,theneatpipinghot,straightoutoftheoven.

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Paindemieauyaourt

(Yoghurtbread)Recently,peopleseemtobeswitchingfromwhiteslicedbreadstothemorecomplextextures

andflavoursoftraditionalorsourdoughbreads.It’soneofthefewtrendsthatIabsolutelyunderstand,howeverthereareoccasionswhennothingbeatsasoftandfluffywhitebreadrollorsandwichbread.Asthetitleoftherecipesuggests,thisbreadismadewithyoghurt,givingitacreamysourfleshthatisslightlydenserthanwhitebread,andathin,velvetycrust.It’stheperfectalternativetotraditionalbreadswiththeirhardcrustsandsometimespungentsournessthatcanbealittleoverwhelmingforsome.

Makes1loaf

Poolish

1g(1/32oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

Dough

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55)

2tablespoonshoney

50g(13/4oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

4g(1/8oz)finesalt

2g(1/16oz)driedyeast

10g(¼oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

Eggwash( forbuns)

2eggs

pinchoffinesalt

LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.

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LTomakethedough,puttheflour,honey,yoghurtandpoolishinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachmentandkneadonlowspeedfor5minutes,oruntilthedoughcomestogether.Coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasidefor20minutes.

LAddthesalt,yeastandbuttertothedoughandkneadfor10minutesonlowspeeduntilwellcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhook,coverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.Usingyourfist,punchthedoughdowntoremovethegasbubbles.

LThisdoughcanbebakedasasingleloafordividedintoballsforhamburgersorhotdogbuns.Ifmakingaloaf,lightlygreasea15x25cm(6x10in)breadtin.Shapethedoughusingtheballingmethod.Puttheballeddoughintothetinandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–2hours,oruntilapproximatelytripledinsize.Ifmakingbuns,dividethedoughinto120g(4¼oz)portionsforlongbuns(forhotdogs);80g(23/4oz)portionsforhamburgerbuns;and40g(1½oz)portionsforsmallsliderbuns.Onceshaped,placethebunsonabakingtraylinedwithbakingpaper,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LIfcookingtheloaf,preheattheovento180°C(350°F).Coverthetinwithaflattray,thenweightitdownwithacast-ironpanorsimilar(theheavierthebetter).Bakefor40minutes,thenremovethetoptrayandweight,tiptheloafoverandremovethetinandbakeforanother15minutes,oruntilgolden.Leavetocoolfor1hourbeforeslicing.

LIfcookingthebuns,preheattheovento190°C(375°F).Meanwhile,tomakeaneggwash,lightlybeattheeggsandsalttogetherinasmallbowl.Whenthebunsareready,brushthemalloverwiththeeggwash.Bakefor10–12minutesforthelargerrollsand7–8minutesforthesmallsliderbuns,oruntilgolden.Unlikelayereddoughsusedforcroissantorpuffpastry,briochesandbreadscookquicklyandhaveatendencytodryup,soifyourespectthetemperatures,thecolourisactuallyaveryreliablewayofdecidingifyourbreadisready.

tip

Themaincharacteristicofpaindemieisitsdense,whiteflesh,whichisachievedbyaddingafattoatraditionalbreaddough.Asalways,IrecommendthatyouexperimentwiththerecipesIhavelistedinthisbook.Foradifferentresult,whynottryreplacingthebutter(fat)inthisrecipewiththesameamountofsoftbluecheeseorcreamymascarpone.

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Pompeàl ’huiled ’oliveetàlafleurd ’oranger

(Oliveoilandorange-blossomsweetbread)Thisisgoingtobeanexceptiontotherule:asweetbreadmadewithapoolishmethod,thevery

thingIsaidIdislikedtobeginwith.WhileIdidmentionthatthedistinctivecharacteristicsofthepoolishmethodwerenottomytasteforrich,butteryandsubtleviennoiseriessuchasbriocheorcroissants,thoseveryattributesareintrinsictosomeofthemosttraditionalsweetbreads,andwhenitcomestotraditionalrecipes,thepompeàl’huileisonenottobemessedwith.

ThishumblefougasseisactuallyoneofthecompulsoryofferingsofthethirteendessertstraditionallyservedduringChristmasfestivitiesinProvence,thenumberthirteenbeingrepresentativeofChristandhistwelveapostlesattheLastSupper.Fourdessertsrepresentthemendiants(thefourordersofmonks)intheformofdriedfruitsandnuts(figs,hazelnuts,almondsandraisins);fourconfectioneriesareusedtorepresentgoodandevil(pompe,darknougat,whitenougatandjams);fourfreshfruits;andaspecialdessert,whichaccordingtolocalcustomcouldvaryfromcandiedfruitstoelaborateconfectioneries,torepresentChrist.Eventhoughthereligioussignificanceofthiscustomisnowoftenforgotten,youwillbehard-pressedtofindaChristmasmealanywhereinthesouthofFrancethatdoesn’tincludesomeelementsofthisage-oldtradition,whichcertainlyalwaysincludesapompeàl’huile.

Makes2

200ml(7floz)full-creammilk

1eggyolk

Poolish

1g(1/32oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

Dough

300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2tablespoonsorangeblossomwater

120ml(4¼floz)virginoliveoil

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6g(1/5oz)finesalt

8g(¼oz)driedyeast

LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.

LTomakethedough,putthepoolishandalltheingredientsforthedoughinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Kneadonlowspeedfor10minutes,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhookanddustalittleflouroverthedough,thencoverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize.

LDividethedoughinhalf,thenshapethedoughusingtheballingmethoddescribed.Placetheballsonatraylightlydustedwithflour,coverwithaclothandsetasidetorestfor15minutes.

LRollouteachballonalightlyflouredworksurfaceintoa20cm(8in)roundabout2.5cm(1in)thick.Thesebreadsaremeanttobequiterustic,sodon’tstresstoomuchaboutmakingaperfectcircle.Concentrateinsteadonmakingsurethedoughisaneventhickness,asanythinnerareasmayburn.Placetheroundsonbakingtrayslinedwithbakingpaper.Coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1–2hours,oruntildoubledinsize.

LPreheattheovento190°C(375°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Lightlybeatthemilkandeggyolkinasmallbowl,thenbrushalloverthebreads.Usingaparingknifedippedintheeggwash,cutpatternsstraightthroughthedough(usethephotographasaguide).Iusuallycutaholeinthemiddle,thenmakefourlongcutsoppositeeachother,similartothenumbersonaclockface.Feelfreetobecreativewithyourdesign—thecutsinthebreadonlyservetoimprovetheoveralllookofthepompeafterbaking,nothingmore.Bakeonthebottomshelfoftheovenfor15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandcooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.

Idon’tmeantoscareyouoranything,butsuperstitiondictatesthatyoushouldnevercutthepompewithaknifeoryouwillriskayearofbadluck.Instead,youshouldalways‘break’thebreadwithyourhands.Youcanneverbetoocareful!

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Fougasseauxherbes,àlapommedeterreetauxolivesnoires

(Potato,blackoliveandherbfougasse)Thisrecipeisverysimilartotheearlieroneforolivefougasse,butthisismadewithamore

complexpoolishdough.Mymainintentionofincludingithereistoillustratethat,irrespectiveofthetraditionalmethodsandflavoursusedintherecipe,it’sthetypeofrecipethatwillsuitmostflavoursandtoppings—it’sentirelyamatterofpersonalpreference.Servethissoft,aromaticflatbreadasaquicklunchorcutitintobite-sizedpiecesandserveasanappetiser.

Forthisrecipe,Iamstickingwithmyfavourites:potatoes,thyme,rosemaryandolives.Forme,thisisProvenceonaplate—humble,resourcefulandintoxicatingallatonce.

Makes1loaf

500g(1lb2oz)PainsurPoolsih

500g(1lb2oz)all-purposepotatoes,suchasdesiree

oliveoil,fordrizzling

3rosemarysprigs,leavespicked

80g(23/4oz)thyme(about½bunch),leavespicked(reserveafewsprigs)

saltandgroundblackpepper,totaste

200g(7oz)blackolives,pitted

LPreparethedoughfollowingthemethod,totheendofthefirstprove.

LRolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredsurfaceintoa20x40cm(8x16in)rectangle,about5mm(¼in)thick.Aswithmostdoughsforpizzasandfocaccia,don’tspendtoomuchtimetryingtogetaperfectrectangle.Notonlyaretheymeanttoberustic,butthedoughwillbecometoosoftandwillbegintoproveifyouspendtoomuchtimefiddlingabout.Placetherolleddoughontoalightlygreasedorlinedbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1hour,oruntildoubledinsize.

LMeanwhile,peelthepotatoesandkeeptheminabowlofcoldwaterasyougo,tostopthemfrombrowning.Usingtheslicingattachmentonthefoodprocessororamandolin,cutthepotatoesinto2mm(1/16)thinslices.Thepotatohastocookquicklybeforethebreadburns,soitisimportantthatallthepotatoslicesarecutintothin,evenslices.Youcanusealargeknifetodothis,butyouwillhavetomakesurethepotatoesarethinlysliced—thereisnothingworsethanrawpotato!Asyouslicethepotatoes,placethemintoabowlfullofcoldwatertopreventthem

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frombrowning,andrefrigerateuntilneeded.

LPreheattheovento220°C(430°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Brushthefougassegenerouslywitholiveoil,sprinklehalftherosemaryandthymeleavesoverthetopandpushthemintothedoughusingyourfingertips.Drainthepotatoesandpatdryonpapertowel,thenplacetheminslightlyoverlappinglayersovertheherbs.Spendabitoftimeorganisingyourpotatoesslicesinanicepattern,startingfromonecornerofthedoughandworkingyourwaytotheoppositeside.Drizzlewithoil,seasonwithagenerousamountofsaltandpepper,thenscatterwiththeolivesandremainingrosemaryandthymeleavesandsprigs.Bakefor12–15minutes,oruntiltheedgesofthepotatoesbegintoturnbrown.Servestraightoutoftheovenoratroomtemperature.

tip

ThesetoppingsaretypicallyProvençal,butyoucanusewhateversuitsyourowntaste.Asoneidea:spreadathinlayerofthick(double/heavy)creamdirectlyontothedough,topwiththinlyslicedpumpkinandseasonwithnutmeg.

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Chaussonàl ’abricotsafranéetauyaourt

(Apricot,saffronandyoghurtpockets)Oneofmyall-timefavourites,thischaussonisavariationonthetraditionalpompebreadrecipe.

It’sfilledwithsweetpoachedapricots,balancedwithjusttherightamountofacidityfromtheyoghurtandasubtlefloralearthinessfromthesaffron.Thisrecipeisaperfectexampleofhowcomplexflavours,whenusedcorrectly,canproducewholesomesimplicity.

Makes15

200ml(7floz)full-creammilk

2eggyolks

250g(9oz)Greek-styleyoghurt

200g(7oz)flakedalmonds

Poolish

1g(1/32oz)driedyeast

100ml(3½floz)coldwater(20°C/70°F)

100g(3½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

Poachedapricots

1.2kg(2lb10oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

1kg(2lb4oz)freshapricots,halvedandpitted

½teaspoonsaffronthreads

Dough

300g(10½oz)plain(all-purpose)flour(‘0’/T55or‘1’/T65)

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

120ml(4¼floz)virginoliveoil

6g(1/5oz)finesalt

8g(¼oz)driedyeast

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LTomakethepoolish,followthemethod.Onceprepared,coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturefor3hours,oruntilthepoolishtriplesinvolume.

LMeanwhile,tomakethepoachedapricots,putthesugar,halvedvanillabeansand2litres(70floz)waterinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Removefromtheheat,addtheapricotsandsaffron,thencoverwithplasticwrapandsetasideuntilcool.Refrigerateovernight.Straintheapricotsandvanillabeansoverabowl,reservingthesyrupforanotheruse(itcanberefrigeratedformonthsandcanbeusedforavarietyofthings,fromcordialtococktailsorevenasasyrupforpoundcakes).Pattheapricotsdryonpapertowelandplacetheminasmallfoodprocessor.Usingasmallknife,scrapethevanillaseedsintothefoodprocessoranddiscardthevanillabeans.Pulsetheapricotmixtureoneortwotimestobreaktheapricotsupalittle.Alternatively,mashthemalittlewithafork.

LTomakethedough,putthepoolishandalltheingredientsforthedoughinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithadoughhookattachment.Kneadonlowspeedfor10minutes,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandkneadfor2–3minutes,oruntilthedoughcomesawayfromthesideofthebowl.Tocheckwhetherthedoughisready,usethe‘windowpane’test.Removethedoughhookanddustalittleflouroverthedough,thencoverthebowlwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor45minutes,oruntildoubledinsize.

LLineabakingtraywithbakingpaper.Rolloutthedoughonalightlyflouredworksurfaceuntilabout1cm(½in)thick.Usinga20cm(8in)roundcutter,cutout15circlesfromthedough,carefullyplaceonthelinedtrayandfreezefor1hour.Atthisstage,thedoughwillbesoftandthedoughcircleswilllosetheirshapeeasily,butchillingthemwillhelpfixthis,sodon’tworrytoomuchabouthowregularthecirclesare.

LTomakeaneggwash,lightlybeatthemilkandeggyolkstogetherinasmallbowl.Removethedoughcirclesfromthefreezerandrollthemagainuntil3mm(1/8in)thick,thencuttheexcessdoughwiththecutter.Atthisstagetheyshouldbefirm.Brushtheeggwasharoundtheoutsideedgesofeachcircle—usejustenoughsothatthedoughistackyenoughtosticktogetherwhenfolded.Reservetheremainingeggwashforlater.

LSpoon1½tablespoonsofapricotsintothemiddleofeachround,thencovertheapricotswith2teaspoonsyoghurt.Foldonesideofthedoughoverthefillingtoformasemicircle,thenuseyourfingertipstopressaroundtheedgetoseal.Usethecuttertotrimandneatenanyexcessdough,thenplaceonlinedbakingtray,coverwithaclothandsetasideinawarmplacetoprovefor1½hours,oruntilthedoughhasrisen.

LPreheattheovento180°C(350°F)atleast30minutesbeforebaking.Brushthechaussonwith

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theremainingeggwashandsprinklewithflakedalmonds.Pokeasmallholeineachonewiththetipofaknife,toallowthesteamtoescape.Bakefor15minutes,oruntilgolden.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolonthetray.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

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Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes

‘T heruleis,jamtomorrowandjamyesterday—butneverjamtoday.’

THROUGHTHELOOKINGGLASS,LEWISCARROLL

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Confitures,compotes,pâtesàtartineretcrèmes

(Jams,compotes,spreadsandcreams)

Fromsalttosugar,vinegartoalcohol,peoplehavebeenexperimentingwithvariouswaysofpreservingseasonalfruitsandvegetablesformillenniums.Nowadays,withadvancesinmethodsofpreservingfoods,sterilisationandsoon,concoctionssuchasjamsandpreservesofallformsarejustanotherdeliciouswayofenjoyingourfruitandvegetables.

Ifyou’veeverbeentoFrance,youwillhavenoticedhowmuchtheFrenchlovetheirspreadsandjams—nobreakfasttablewouldbecompletewithoutanassortmentofjamsandaslicedbaguette,todipintoyourbowlofcaféaulait.WhenIwasachildIwasluckyenoughtospendmytimeoffschoolinthecountry,whenpickingfruitsandberriestomakejamsandpreserveswasconsideredfun.Wewouldspenddaysscavengingforberries,occasionallyraidinganearbyfruitorchard,thengohomewithourbucketsbrimming.Ourgrandmotherhelpedusmixallthosefruitsinlargecopperpots,andmyjobwastostayclosetothestove,stirringthefragrantjamswithawoodenspoon.Whentheyturnedtranslucentandshiny,wepouredthemintoanassortmentofjarsthatwe’dsavedupoverthewinter.

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Confitures

(Jams)ThefoodindustryinFrance,fromproductionallthewaytotheretailshelf,isstringently

controlledbygovernmentaldecrees,proprietarymethodsorregionalbrandnames.Assuch,jamsmanufacturedforretailneedtocontainatleast55percentsugaraftercooking,andatleast35percentfruitbeforecooking,inordertobesoldunderthenameofconfitures.

WhileIamsurethoserulesandregulationsarecriticalinmaintainingthestandardsandconsistencyofproductssoldaroundtheworld,therecipesinthisbookdon’tmeetthoserules—Iwasactuallymoreconcernedwithwritingrecipesthatweretastyandeasytoachieve.Thesugarcontentandboilingtimeforthejamsinthefollowingrecipeshavebeendramaticallyreducedtopreservetheintegrityoftheflavourandtasteofthefruits,andtopreservesomeofthevitaminsandcolourthatallbutdieoffduringthetraditionallylengthycookingperiod.

storageinstructions:

LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesejamsmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.

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Confituredeframboisesàlanoixdecoco

(Raspberryandcoconutjam)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

10g(¼oz)powderedpectin

100ml(3½floz)tinnedcoconutcream

500g(1lb2oz)freshorfrozenraspberries(seetip)

LTosterilisethejars,placefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsinalargesaucepanandcoverwithhotwater.Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandsimmergentlyfor5minutes.Removethepanfromtheheat.Usingapairofkitchentongs,carefullyremovethejarsandlidsfromthehotwaterandplacethemupsidedownonacleanclothonyourworksurface.Takecareastheywillbeextremelyhot!

LPutthesugarandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.

LPutthecoconutcreamandraspberriesinaheavy-basedsaucepanovermediumheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Bringtotheboil,stirringoccasionally.Atthispointtheberriesshouldbebreakingdown.Addthesugarmixtureandstircontinuouslyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Reducetheheattolowandcontinuestirringgentlyfor10minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LPourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

tip

Ialwaysrecommendusingfreshberriesfortheserecipes.Thatbeingsaid,youwillgetaverysimilarresultusingfrozenfruits,providingyouaccountfor the fact that they contain a slightly higher water content, and will therefore need to simmer for an additional 5 minutes to allow for extraevaporation.

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Confituredefraisesàlamentheetaucitronvert

(Strawberry,mintandlimejam)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

10g(¼oz)powderedpectin

10largemintleaves,chopped

550g(1lb4oz)strawberries,hulled

finelygratedzestandjuiceof1lime

LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPutthesugarandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.Wrapthechoppedmintinapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oracleanclothandsecurethetopwithstring,tomakeabagsimilartoabouquetgarni.

LPutthestrawberries,1tablespoonwaterandthemintparcelinaheavy-basedsaucepanoververylowheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Coverthepanandcook,stirringoccasionallyandmakingsurethemixturedoesn’tboil,untiltheberriesstarttobreakdown.Addthesugarmixtureandstircontinuouslyuntilthesugarhascompletelydissolved.Then,continuestirringgentlyfor10minutes,oruntiltranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LRemovethemintparcel,thenstirinthelimezestandjuice.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

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Confituredemelonàlacannelleetaucitronconfit

(Rockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonjam)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

½lemon,preferablyorganic

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

15g(½oz)powderedpectin

700g(1lb9oz)riperockmelon(about1largemelon),peeledandcutinto2cm(3/4in)pieces

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

LWashthelemonthoroughlyunderhotwatertoremoveanywax.Removetheseeds,thenfinelychoptheskinandfleshintoaroughpaste.

LPutthesugar,cinnamonandpectininabowlandstiruntilverywellcombined—thisavoidstheformationoflumpslaterintheprocess.Addthelemonpaste,choppedmelonandvanillabeansand,usingyourhands,combinewell.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandsetasidefor1hour.

LMeanwhile,sterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LTransferthefruitandsugarmixturetoaheavy-basedsaucepanandplaceovermediumheat.Heavy-basedpansaregreatatspreadingthedirectheatoftheflameorheatingelement,whichreducesthechanceofburningthejam.Bringtotheboil,stirringcontinuously,thenreducetheheattolowandcontinuestirringforanother15minutes,oruntilthemelonbecomestranslucent.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthejamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LUsingapairofkitchentongs,removethevanillabeansandreserve.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims.Addonehalvedvanillabeantoeachjarandsealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

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technicaltip

Pectinisacolloid,apolysaccharidefoundintheskinand,toalesserextent,thefleshoffruitsandvegetables.Itiswidelyusedasagellingagentandstabiliserinfood(E440),butalsointherapeuticmedicinesandthepharmaceuticalindustry.Now,gettingbacktoourjam…Aspectinneedsanacidtoactivatefully,wecancontrolthethicknessorviscosityofthejambyaddingorreducingboththeamountofpectinandacidweadd.Inthisrecipe,Ihaveincreasedtheamountofpectinandaddedanacid(thelemon).Thiswillhelpstabilisethehighwater/lowpectincontentoftherockmelon.

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Confitured ’ananaspoivrée

(Pepperedpineapplejam)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

½lemon,preferablyorganic

500g(1lb2oz)ripepineappleflesh(about1smallpineapple),cutinto2cm(3/4in)cubes1/8teaspoonfinelygroundblackpepper

10g(¼oz)powderedpectin

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

250g(9oz)caster(superfine)sugar

LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LWashthelemonthoroughlyunderhotwatertoremoveanywax.Removetheseeds,thenfinelychoptheskinandflesh.

LPutthelemon,pineapple,pepper,pectinandvanillabeansinabowlandcombinewell.Coverandsetasidefor1hour.Unliketheotherjamsinthisbook,thepectinisnotaddedtothesugar,asitwouldburnduringthecaramelisationprocess.Consequently,itrequiresatleast1hourtohydrateandsoftenupinthejuicesofthefruitpriortocooking.

LPut80ml(2½floz)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepan,thenaddthesugarandmixgentlywithyourfingertipsorasmallspatula.Becarefulnottosplattertoomuchsugararoundthesideofthepanoryouwillincreasetheriskofcrystallisingthesugar(seetips).Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcook,withoutstirring,untilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Stirringthesyrupwillincreasethechancesofthecaramelcrystallising,sogentlytiltthepanuntilthecaramelisaneven,lightbrowncolourthroughout.Assoonasyouarehappywiththecolourofthecaramel,increasetheheattohigh,thenimmediatelyaddthepineapplemixtureandstircontinuously.Beverycarefulwhenaddingaliquid(orfruitthatcontainsalotofliquid)tocaramelasthiscreatesalotofveryhotsteam.Alwayskeepyourhandsasfarawayfromthemixtureaspossiblewhenaddingthefruit.

LReducetheheattolow,thencoverandsimmer,withoutstirring,for10minutes.Thesteamandheatwillforcethewateroutofthepineappleanddissolveanypiecesofhardcaramel.Removethelid,add200ml(7floz)water,thenincreasetheheattomediumandsimmer,stirringcontinuously,foranother30minutes.Itishardtotellbysightifthejamisready,asthe

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jamhasverylittlesugarandhastorelypredominantlyonthepectin(foritstextureandthickness)tobloomovernighttoset.Assoonasthejambeginsboiling,thepectinhasbeenactivated.

LUsingapairofkitchentongs,removethevanillabeansandreserve.Pourthehotjamintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims.Addonehalvedvanillabeantoeachjarandsealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(3monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

technicaltips

Sugar,oncedissolvedinaliquidwillhaveapropensitytoreturntoitscrystallisedstate,causingyourhotsyruptomasse,orcrystalliseintoalumpofopaque,hardsugar.So,thegoalistostopanyofthesugarcrystallisingduringcooking.Hereareafewtipstopreventthisproblem:

LMakesureyoursugardoesnotcontainanyimpurities(suchascrumbs,smallcoffeegrainsorflour).

LWhenmakingheavysyrup(highinsugar)orcookedsugar,alwaysdissolvethesugarslowlyinthewater(youcancompletethisstageevena

fewhoursbeforeyouneedit),andthencookthesugarquicklytoavoidcrystallisation.

LAlwaysdissolveyoursugarbyaddingatleast30percentofitsweightinwater.

LUseassmallapanaspossible,tomaintainconsistentheatacrossthewholesyrup.

LUseasmallbrushtoremoveanysugarcrystalsthatformonthesideofyourpanduringcooking.

LDon’tstirthesyruponceithasbeguntoboil.

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Compotes

(Compotes)Firstdescribedinafifteenth-centurycookbookasa‘spicedandsweetenedapplepurée’,

compotesnowcomeinallmannerofflavours.Thebasicrequirementsofcompotesarethattheyshouldbemadeofchunksoffleshyfruit(suchasapples,figsorpears),becookedinalight,spicedsyrupandrelyentirelyonthefruits’ownpectinfortheirtexture.Thisisunlikejams,whichcontainmuchmoresugarandoftentheadditionofpectin,topreservethefruit.

Personally,Ithinkcompotesareamorerefinedandhealthyalternativetoclassicjams.Theyarefullofvitamins(unlikejams,whichlosealotoftheirnutrientsduringtheboilingprocess),theycontainalotlesssugarandcanbeservedasaspreadonabutteredbaguette,awarmcroissantorFrenchtoast.Theyalsotasteamazingasanaccompanimenttoasimplefruitsalad,yoghurtandcheese,orasasubstituteforicecreamonawarmchocolatecakeortartetatin.

storageinstructions:

LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesecompotesmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.

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Compotedepoiresàl ’orgeat

(Pearandorgeatsyrupcompote)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

600g(1lb5oz)firmwilliams(bartlett)pears(about4),oranybutterypear

juiceof2lemons

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

60ml(2floz)orgeatsyrup

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPeel,coreandcutthepearsinto2cm(3/4in)cubesandplaceinaheavy-basedsaucepan.Addtheremainingingredientsanduseyourhandstocombinewell.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for10minutes,oruntilthepearsbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.

LUsingkitchentongs,removethevanillabeans,thenscrapetheseedsoutofthebeansintothecompote.Stirthecompoteuntilthevanillaseedsaredispersedevenlythroughout.

LSpoonthehotcompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

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Compoted ’abricotsàlaverveinecitronnelle

(Apricotandlemonverbenacompote)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

50g(13/4oz)lemonverbenaleaves,coarselychopped(or6lemonverbenateabags)

600g(1lb5oz)ripeapricots,halvedandstonesremoved

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

2vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

LWrapthechoppedlemonverbenaleavesinapieceofmuslin(cheesecloth)oracleanclothandsecurethetopwithstring,tomakeabagsimilartoabouquetgarni.

LPuttheapricots,sugar,vanillabeansandthelemonverbenaparcelinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Ifyouareusingteabags,don’taddthemyetastheyarefragileandwillbreakapartduringtheearlystagesofcooking.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for15minutes,oruntiltheapricotsbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.Ifusingthelemonverbenateabags,reducetheheattolowandaddthemtothepan.Simmerfor5minutes,stirringcontinuously.

LTransferthecompotetoaheat-resistantbowl.Coverandsetasideuntilcool,thenrefrigerateovernight.Don’tremovethemuslinparcel(orteabags)orthevanillabeansatthisstage,astheywillreleasethebulkoftheirflavourduringthecooling-downperiod.

LMeanwhile,sterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LRemovethelemonverbenaparcelorteabagsfromthecompoteandsqueezethemgentlywithyourhandstoextractasmuchflavouraspossible—don’tsqueezetheteabagstoohardortheywillburst.Scrapetheseedsoutofthevanillabeansintothecompoteandstiruntiltheseedsareevenlydispersedthroughout.

LSpoonthecompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

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Compotedepommesetderhubarbe

(Appleandrhubarbcompote)

Makesabout1litre(35floz)

300g(10½oz)rhubarbstems(about5stems)

600g(1lb5oz)greenapples(about4),suchasgrannysmiths

100g(3½oz)honey

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoongroundcinnamon

LSterilisefive200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LTrimtherhubarbofanyleavesandcutthestemsinto1cm(½in)thickslices.Put500ml(17floz)waterinalargesaucepanandbringtotheboiloverhighheat.Assoonasthewaterboils,addtherhubarbandcookfor5minutes,oruntiltender,thendrainwell.Placeonacleanclothandpatdry.

LPeelandcoretheapplesandcutinto2cm(3/4in)cubes.Puttherhubarb,apples,honey,sugarandcinnamoninaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Coverthepanandcookovermediumheat,stirringoccasionally,for10–15minutes,oruntiltheapplesbegintobreakdownintoacoarsepurée.Thesteamgeneratedandtrappedunderthelidwillprovidetheheatnecessarytobreakdownthefibresinthefruitandwillreleasethewaterwithlittleornoriskofburningthebottomofthepan.

LSpoonthehotcompoteintothesterilisedjars,makingsureyoudon’tspillanyontherims,thensealimmediately.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Setasideuntilcool,thenstoreinthefridge.

technicaltip

For this recipe, I have substituted some of the sugarwith honey.Honey is an inverted sugar, high in fructose. Thismonosaccharide has two verybeneficialpropertiesinbaking.Firstly,itisapproximately65percentsweeterthansucrose(sugar)andisthereforeidealtobalanceoutacidicrecipes,such as this apple and rhubarb compote,without dramatically needing to increase the ratio of refined sugar. Secondly, the honey slows down thecrystallisationofsucroseinyourmix,thereforeincreasingboththetextureandshelflife.

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Pâtesàtartiner

(Spreads)Literallyspeaking,pâtesàtartinercanbetranslatedas‘pastetospreadontartines’,thosebeing

slicesofbreadusuallyeateninthemorning,dunkedintoalargebowlofhotchocolateorcaféaulait.Ofcoursejams,marmalades,honeys,softcheeses…allofthoseareindeedspreads,butthewayIlookatitisthattheyalreadyhaveaspecificnametocategorisethemandtherecipesthatfollowdon’t—justlikepeanutbutter,theyaresimplyspreadable…anddelicious.

storageinstructions:

LDuetotheirlowsugarcontent,thesespreadsmustbekeptinthefridge,evenpriortoopening,andlabelledwiththeexpirydatessuggestedintherecipes.

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Pâteàtartinerchoco-noisette

(Hazelnutandchocolatespread)

Makesabout800ml(28floz)

200g(7oz)caster(superfine)sugar

600g(1lb5oz)hazelnuts,roastedandskinned(seetip)

100g(3½oz)unsweetenedcocoapowder

50g(13/4oz)full-creammilkpowder

2tablespoonsvegetableoil

largepinchofsaltflakes

LSterilisefour200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.Placea50cm(20in)longpieceofbakingpaperoralargesiliconematontheworksurface.

LTomakethepraline,put80ml(23/4floz)waterinaheavy-basedsaucepan,thenaddthesugarandmixgentlywithasmallspatula.Becarefulnottosplattertoomuchsugararoundthesideofthepanoryouwillincreasetheriskofcrystallisingthesugar.Bringtotheboiloverhighheat,thenreducetheheattomediumandcook,withoutstirring,untilthesugarbeginstocaramelise.Stirringthesyrupwillincreasethechanceofthecaramelcrystallising,sogentlytiltthepanuntilthecaramelisanevenlightbrowncolour.

LReducetheheattolow,thenstirinthehazelnutsandquicklytipthemixtureoverthepaperorsiliconemat,spreadingitoutasthinlyasyoucanwithaspatula.Leavetocool,thencoverthepralinewithaclothandusearollingpinorsaucepantobashitintosmallpieces.

LPutthepralinepiecesintoafoodprocessorwiththecocoapowder,milkpowder,oilandsaltflakes.Usingthepulsebutton,processuntilfinelychopped,thenprocessonhighspeeduntilapasteforms.Stopmixingassoonasyouarehappywiththetextureofyourspread.Thelongeryoumixit,thesmootheritwillget.

LDividethepasteamongthesterilisedjarsandseal.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(6monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Storeinthefridge.

tip

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Thehazelnutsinthisspreadcanbereplacedwithanyothernut;however,youmustadjustthelevelsoffataccordinglytoachieveasimilartexture.Thisrecipeisdesignedforhazelnuts,whichcontainaround60percentoil,or360g(123/4oz).Ifyouweretousealmonds,whichcontain50percentoil(300g/10½ozfor600g/1lb5ozofalmonds),orpistachios,youwouldhavetoaddanadditional60g(2¼oz)ofvegetableoil,bringingthetotalvegetableoilamountto100g(3½oz).

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Confituredelait

(Milkjam)

Makesabout600ml(21floz)

1litre(35floz)full-creammilk

300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

½teaspoonsaltflakes

3vanillabeans,halvedlengthways

LSterilisethree200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPutalltheingredientsinaheavy-basedsaucepanandcombinewell.Cookoverhighheatuntilthemixturecomestotheboil,thenreducetheheattolow.Usingaslottedspoon,removethefoamfromthetopofthemilk,thencontinuetosimmerfor1½hours,stirringevery10minuteswithaheat-resistantflatspatula(usingawhiskwillcreatefoam,whichyouwanttoavoid).Duringthelast30minutesofcooking,themixtureshouldbegintothickenandcarameliseslowly,sopaycloseattentionandstircontinuouslytomakesurethemixturedoesn’tcatchonthebottomofthepanandburn.Itisimportanttonotethatthecookingtimesindicatedarepurelytobeusedasaguide.Thisjamisreadyfromtheminuteitthickensandcaramelises;thelongeryouleaveit,thethickeritwillgetandthelesssweetitwillbecome.

LUsingkitchentongs,removeanddiscardthevanillabeans,thenspoonthehotcaramelintothesterilisedjars,butdonotsealthemforatleast1hour,oruntilthecaramelreachesroomtemperature.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(1monthfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Sealandstoreinthefridge.

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Pâtedecaramelaubeurresalé

(Saltedcaramelspread)

Makesabout600ml(21floz)

150ml(5floz)whippingcream(35%fat)

300g(10½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,chopped

4g(1/8oz)saltflakes

LSterilisethree200ml(7floz)capacityjarsandtheirlidsfollowingthemethoddescribed.

LPutthecreaminasmallsaucepanandcookoverlowheatuntiljustwarm.Removefromtheheatandsetaside.

LPutthesugarinaheavy-basedsaucepanoverhighheatandstircontinuouslywithaflat,heat-resistantspatula.Alwaysuseamediumtolargesaucepanforthesetypesofcaramels,asintroducingacoolerliquidtoaveryhotcaramelcreatesalotofsteamandintenselyhotbubbles,sothelargerthepan,thebetter.Assoonasthesugarbeginstocaramelisearoundtheedges,reducetheheattolowandcontinuestirring.Atthisstage,youwillnoticelarge,crystallisedlumpsofsugar;thisisactuallypartoftheprocessofcookingadrycaramel.Whenthecaramelbeginstofoam(atthisstage,thecolourshouldbeturningbrown/redandthelumpsshouldbetotallydissolved),increasetheheattohigh,andslowlyincorporatethewarmcreamwhilemixing.Alwayskeepyourhandsasfarawayfromthecaramelasyoucanduringthisprocess!

LCookthemixture,stirringoccasionally,untilitreaches110°C(230°F)onasugarthermometer.Removefromtheheatandstirinthebutteruntilwellcombined.Usingastickblender,processthecaramelfor1–2minutes,oruntilemulsified.Stirinthesaltflakes.

LSpoonthehotcaramelintothesterilisedjars,butdonotsealthemforatleast1hour,oruntilthecaramelreachesroomtemperature.Labelthejarsandwritetheexpirydate(2monthsfromthedaytheyweremade)onthem.Sealandstoreinthefridge.

Whatmakessaltedcaramelsodelicious?Tounderstandthis,youneedtounderstandalittleabouthowtastes,inparticularsaltinessandbitterness,worktogether.Tastesaresensedbytastebudsinourmouth.Eachofthosetastesaredetectedindividually,sothereforeanystrongtastewillreducetheperceivedtasteofothers.Forinstance,anoverlysweetcurdwillnumbyourtonguetoanyothertasteorany

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subtlenuancesinflavour.Youcaneitherincreaseorreducetheperceivedeffectofaparticulartaste(andoverallflavour)byincreasingorevenintroducinganothertaste.Saltedcaramelisaverygoodexampleofthis.Weovercookthecarameltoreducetheinherentsweetnessofthesugar.Wethenaddalittlesalttoneutralisethebitternessborneoutofovercookingthecaramel,resultinginaharmoniousbalanceofflavours,wherenotasteoverpowerstheother.

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Crèmes

(Creams)

Crèmed ’amandes

(Almondcream)

Makesabout500g(1lb2oz)

note:Tomakepistachiocream,substitute100g(3½oz)ofthealmondmealwithpistachiomealanduse

kirschinsteadofrum.

150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,softbutnotmelted

150g(5½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1egg

1eggyolk

150g(5½oz)almondmeal

25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

75g(23/4oz)Custard(opposite)(optional)

40ml(1¼floz)rum

LUsinganelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment,beatthebutterandsugaronmediumspeed,scrapingdownthesideofthebowlwithaspatula,untilcreamyandsmooth.

LReducethespeedtolow,thenaddtheeggandeggyolksoneatatime,makingsureeachadditionisfullyabsorbedbeforeaddingthenext.

LAddthealmondmealandflourandbeatuntiljustcombined,thenincreasethespeedtomediumandbeatuntillightandfluffy.Addthecustard,ifusing,andrumandbeatuntilsmoothandwellcombined.Transfertoabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinforming,thenrefrigerateforupto7days.

tip

Aeratedbatters,suchasalmondcreams,willlosetheircreaminessandtexturewhentheyarerefrigeratedformorethanafewhours.Ifyou’renotusingthemstraightaway,bringbacktoroomtemperature,thenwhiskinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentuntilsmooth.

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Crèmepâtissière

(Custard)

Makesabout700g(1lb9oz)

500ml(17floz)full-creammilk

1vanillabean,halvedlengthways,seedsscraped

25g(1oz)plain(all-purpose)flour

35g(1¼oz)maizecornflour(cornstarch)

100g(3½oz)caster(superfine)sugar

1egg

1eggyolk

50g(13/4oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature

LBringthemilk,vanillabeanandseedstotheboilinasaucepanovermediumheat.

LMeanwhile,puttheflour,cornflourandsugarinaheatproofbowlandcombinewell.Addtheeggandeggyolkand,usingahand-heldwhisk,beatuntilwellcombinedandcreamy.

LWhenthemilkreachesboilingpoint,removethevanillabeans.Whiskingcontinuously,graduallyaddhalfofthemilktothesugarandeggmixtureandcombinewell,thentransfertothepanwiththeremainingmilk.Whiskcontinuouslyovermediumheatuntilthecustardcomestotheboil,thencontinuewhiskingforanother2minutes.

LRemovefromtheheatandtransferthecustardtothebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachment.Addthebutterandbeatonlowspeedfor10minutes,oruntilwarmtothetouch.Transfertoabowl,coverthesurfacewithapieceofplasticwraptopreventaskinforming,thenrefrigerateforupto2days.

LBeforeusing,lightlywhiskinthebowlofanelectricmixerfittedwithapaddleattachmentuntilsmooth.

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Glossary

abaisseAlaminatedorflattenedblockofpastry.

amelioratedAtermdescribingtheadditionofingredientstoabasedoughtoimproveitstextureorflavour.Examplesofamelioratedbreaddoughsarebriochesandfougasses.

autolyseAlsoknownasthe‘delayedsaltmethod’,thisisabread-makingtechniquewheretheflourandwateraremixedtogetherpriortointroducingtheyeastandsalt.Thedoughisthenlefttorest,improvingwaterabsorptionandsubsequentglutendevelopment.Autolysingultimatelyreducesthekneadingtimeandimprovesthetextureofthedough.Saltinhibitsthisprocess,soisaddedafterwards.

bain-marieUsedtoslowlyandgentlywarm,meltorcookingredientsinavesselsuspendedoverasaucepanofhotorwarmwater;adoubleboiler;awaterbath.

ballingAfterthefirstprove,thedoughneedstobeballed,aprocessdesignedtostretchtheglutenandincreaseelasticitysothedoughretainsitsshapeduringtheprovingstage.

beurrenoisetteButtercookeduntilthewaterhasevaporatedandthefathasgonethroughtheMaillardreaction(non-enzymaticbrowning).Thisprocessaddsthesubtleflavourofhazelnuts(noisettes)toyourbutter.Mostcommonlycalled‘brownbutter’inEnglish.

blanch(blanchir)Literallytranslatedas‘whitening’,thisreferstoaprocesswherefoodisbrieflycookedinboilingwatertodeactivatetheenzymesthatcauseoxidation(enzymaticbrowning).Thefoodisthenplungedintoicedorcoldwatertostopthecookingprocess.

caramelisationAnon-enzymaticbrowningprocessthatoccurswhensucrose(sugar)isexposedtoextremeheat.

colloidAsubstancemadeofmicroscopicparticlesthataresuspendedinaliquid(orsolid),alteringitstexture.

corpsMeans‘body’;referstotheelasticityofadough.Themorecorpsadoughhas,thetougheritwillbetorolloutorshape.

deglazeToaddaliquidtoremovethecookedbrownedbitsofresiduefromthebottomofapan,ortoahotcaramelorsaucetoliquefyit.

demouldTocarefullyremoveacakeortartfromitsmouldortin.

denaturationAprocessthatcausesproteinstolosetheirstructurebyapplyinganexternalstresssuchasheat,anacid(suchaslemonjuice)oralcohol.

détrempeThedoughforpufforcroissantpastry,priortoaddingthebutterforturning.

directmethodOnemethodofmakingbread,wherethedoughreliesexclusivelyontheadditionofyeastforfermentation.

eggwashAmixtureofeggandsalt(andsometimesmilkorwater)brushedoverpastriespriortobaking,toaddcolourandshine.

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emulsionAprocesswherebytwoliquids–usuallyafatandwater–areboundtogethertocreateafoamorcream,addingtextureandreducingtheperceivedeffect(theoverallsensation)ofthefat.

enzymaticbrowningseeoxidation

feuilletéAgeneraltypeofpastry,savouryorsweet,madewithpuffpastry.

fraiser/fraisageAmethodofusingyourfingertipsandtheheelofyourhandtoincorporateeggsandbutterintoflour,withoutkneading.Thistechniqueminimisesthelengthofthestrandsofglutenandisusedforshortcrustoranydoughwhereelasticityisundesirable.

ganacheAnemulsifiedcreammadewithchocolateandaliquid.Althoughthemostcommonganachesaremadeusingcream(18–35%fat),ganachescanalsobemadeusingfruitjuices,puréesandevenwater.

knockingdownUsingthepalmofyourhandsoryourfisttopushdown(deflate)ayeasteddough,followingthefirstprove,toremovethecarbondioxide(gas)thathasformed.

laminatingTheincrementalthinningorflatteningofadoughwitharollingpinordoughbreaker(usedcommerciallytorolloutlargequantitiesofdough).

levainAmixtureofflourandaliquidlefttofermentovertime.Levain,the‘starter’,isthebuildingblockofanysourdoughandtheonlyleavening(rising)agentusedduringtheprovingprocess.

liningTheprocessofapplyingathinlayerofdoughtoacaketinortarttin.

longdoughAdough,suchasthatusedforviennoiserieorbreads,wherethestrandsofglutenhavebeenlengthenedduringthemixingorkneadingprocess,whichincreasestheelasticityofthedoughnecessarytotrapthegasesreleasedduringtheprovingandbakingstage,aprocessessentialtothedevelopmentofanyyeasteddough.

MaillardreactionAnon-enzymaticbrowningprocessthatoccursbetweenaminoacidsandreducingsugarswhenexposedtoheat,producingadesirableflavourandcolour.ExamplesofMaillardreactionbrowningarebreadcrusts,searedmeatorfishandroastedcoffeebeans.

masse/masserAprocessbywhichsucrosecrystalliseswithinasyrup.

non-enzymaticbrowningseeMaillardreaction;caramelisation

oxidationAbiochemicalprocesswherebyenzymesbrownwhenexposedtooxygen;alsocalledenzymaticbrowning.

pasteurisationAprocess,particularlyappliedtomilksandcreams,whereingredientsareheatedfrom72°C–88°C(162°F–190°F)—dependingonthefatcontentanduseoftheproduct—tokillharmfulgerms,andthencooledrapidlyto4°C(39°F).

pâtisserieAtypeofsweetconcoctionandtheshopthatsellsthem.

pâtissier/pâtissièreAprofessionalbaker(male/female).

pâtonAblockofdoughthathasbeenfoldedaroundtheblockofbutter.

pectinAsubstance(seecolloid)primarilyusedasagellingagentandpreservativeinjamsthatoccursnaturallyinmanyfruits(especiallyintheskinandseeds).

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pointageThefirststageofprovingofanyyeasteddough.

poolishApre-ferment,or‘starter’,madeofequalpartswaterandflourwiththeadditionofasmallamountofyeast.Breadsandfougassesmadewithpoolishwillhaveastrongflavourduetothebuild-upoflacticacidinthepoolish,andwillalsohaveabuttery,lightcrumbandacrispcrust.

provingThedevelopmentofadoughundertheactionofyeast,poolishorlevain;theprocessofallowingthebreaddoughtorise.

rouxAthickeningagent,usedofteninsauces,madebycookingtogetherflourandafat(usuallybutter).

sablageTomixbutterandflourtogetherbeforeaddingtheliquidsinthepreparationofcertaintypesofshortcrustpastry.

shortdoughAdough,suchaspâtesabléeandmostshortcrustpastry,wherethestrandsofglutenarenotlengthenedduringthemixingprocess.Shortdoughsarecrumblyandcanbedifficulttohandle.

viennoiserieAtypeofleavenedpastry.Examplesofviennoiseriesarecroissants,briocheandroulades.

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Frenchrecipelist

allumettesglacées

Ardéchoisàlacrèmedemarronsetganacheaucaramelsalé

batonsgruyère-parmesan

beignetsàlacannelle

biscuitsauchocolat,auxamandesetauxpistaches

biscuitssecs

brioche

briocheausucreetauxécorcesd’oranges

bugnes

chaussonàl’abricotsafranéetauyaourt

chouquettes

chouxbeurredecacahouète-chocolataulait

clafoutisauxcerises

compoted’abricotsàlaverveinecitronnelle

compotedepoiresàl’orgeat

compotedepommesetderhubarbe

compotes

confitured’ananaspoivrée

confituredefraisesàlamentheetaucitronvert

confituredeframboisesàlanoixdecoco

confituredelait

confituredemelonàlacannelleetaucitronconfit

confitures

congolaisàl’orgeat

conversationauxorangesépicées

crèmed’amandes

crèmepâtissière

crèmes

croissants

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croissantsauxamandes

croquantsauxamandes

diplomate

douillonsdepommesauCalvadosetgoussedevanille

éclairsàlafraiseetàlamandarine

feuilletésricotta-figue

financiersauxframboisesetàlanoixdecoco

florentines

fondantauchocolatetauxnoix

fougasseausucre

fougasseauxherbes,àlapommedeterreetauxolivenoires

fougasseauxolives

fourrésauxpêchesetaucitron

gâteauàl’huiled’olive,aucitronconfitetàlalavande

gâteauaufromage,saucemandarine-chocolat

gâteaubasque

gâteaumarocain

gâteauxderizaucarameletàlafleurd’oranger

gâteauxetdesserts

gnocchiaupistouatauxpalourdes

gougèresbéchamelgruyère

macaronsdeNancy

madeleines

michetraditionnelleauxnoixetauxraisins

muffinscaramel-banane

navettesàl’eaudefleurd’oranger

pain

painaulevain

paindecampagne

paindemieauyaourt

painméthodedirecte

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painperdu

painsurpoolish

painsauchocolatetauxnoisettes

painsauxraisins

palmiersauxnoisettes

pastislandais

pâteàbrioche

pâteàchoux

pâteàcroissant

pâteàtartinerchoco-noisette

pâtebrisée

pâtedecaramelaubeurresalé

pâtefeuilletée

pâtesablée

pâtesucrée

pâtesàtartiner

petsdenonnecitronnésàl’anis

pissaladière

pithiviers

pizzaMargherita

pizzasbanane-chocolat

pompeàl’huiled’oliveetàlafleurd’oranger

quatre-quartsàlapoireetauxdates

quichelorraine

rouladesàlatapenadeetauhaloumi

rouladespistache-framboise

sablésàlaconfiture

souffléàlaChartreuseetcoulisdefraisespoivrées

tarteàlapistache,auxfiguesetàl’eauderose

tarteamandineauxpoiresetàlaWilliamine

tarteaufromagedeBanon

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tarteaujamboncruetauroquefort

tarteaupotironetauxlardons

tarteauxblettesetauxraisins

tartebanane-réglisse

tarteganacheauxframboisesfraiches

tartegratinée

tartemeringuéeaucitronetaubasilic

tartericotta-orangeauchocolatetaupastis

tartetatinàlarhubarbe

tartescrèmebrûléeàlalavande

tartesettourtes

tourteauboeufbourguignon

tourtespouletpoireauxetlaurier

tuilesauxamandes

tuilesdentelleàl’orangeetàlacannelle

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Index

almondsalmondandpearcreamtartwithpearliqueuralmondandspicedorangetartalmond,chocolateandpistachiobiscuitsalmondcreamalmondcroissantsalmondcustardBasquecakealmondtuilesbiscottiflorentinesflourlessMoroccanalmondandorangecakefrangipanepieamarettianchovyandonionfocacciaaniseandlemonnun’spuffsapplesappleandrhubarbcompotebakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabeanupside-downappleandrhubarbtartapricotsapricotandlemonverbenacompoteapricot,saffronandyoghurtpockets

bacon,inquichelorrainebain-mariesbakingpowderbakingtoolsbananasbananaandcaramelmuffinsbananaandchocolatepizzasbananaandliquoricetartbasilbasilandlemonmeringuetartbasil,tomatoandgoat’scheesetartBasquecakebeefburgundypiebicarbonateofsodabiscotti,almondbiscuitsalmondbiscottialmondtuiles

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chocolate,almondandpistachioflorentinesFrenchvanillacrostoliNancymacaronsorangeandcinnamonlacetuilesorangeblossomnavettesblindbakingbluecheeseandprosciuttotartbreadandbutterpuddingbreadknivesbreadsapricot,saffronandyoghurtpocketscountrybreaddirectmethodofmakingfullsourdoughmethodofmakingMargheritapizzaoliveoilandorangeblossomsweetbreadonionandanchovyfocacciapotato,blackoliveandherbfougasseProvençalolivebreadsemi-sourdoughmethodofmakingsugarfougassewalnutandraisinloafyoghurtbreadbriochescandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriochechocolateandbananapizzascinnamondoughnutsFrenchpanettoneFrenchtoasthowtomakethedoughsnailsbrownsugar‘burningtheeggs’butterbutterbriochebutterfudgecake,chocolateandwalnutbuttermilk

caketinscakesanddessertsbananaandcaramelmuffinsbreadandbutterpuddingcaramelandorangeblossomricecakesChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis

Page 442: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

chestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganachechocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecakechocolate-mandarinsaucewithbakedcheesecakedateandpearpoundcakesflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakemadeleinesoliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavenderraspberryandcoconutfriandsCalvadosandvanillabeanwithbakedapplesinpastrycandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriochecaramelcaramelandbananamuffinscaramelandorangeblossomricecakessaltedcaramelganachewithchestnutcakecastersugarChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulischeesebakedcheesecakewithmandarin-chocolatesaucebluecheeseandprosciuttotartcheesesticksgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartgruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffshaloumiswirlsandolivetapenadericottaandfigpastriesricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartsilverbeetandraisintartcheesecake,baked,withmandarin-chocolatesaucechef’sknivescherriescherryclafoutisflorentineschestnutcakewithsaltedcaramelganachechicken,leekandlaurelpieschocolatechocolate,almondandpistachiobiscuitschocolateandbananapizzaschocolateandhazelnutcroissantschocolateandhazelnutspreadchocolateandwalnutbutterfudgecakechocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberrieschocolate-mandarinsaucewithbakedcheesecakechocolate,ricotta,orangeandpastistartflorentinesmanufacturingprocess

Page 443: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

milkchocolateandpeanutbutterpuffstypesofbeantypesofchocolateusingabain-mariechouxpastryaniseandlemonnun’spuffsclamandpestognocchigruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffshowtomakepeanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffspearlsugarpuffsstrawberryandmandarinéclairscinnamoncinnamonandorangelacetuilescinnamondoughnutscinnamon,rockmelonandconfitlemonjamclamandpestognocchicocoabeanscocoapowdercoconutscoconutandraspberryfriandscoconutandraspberryjammacaroonswithorgeatsyrupcompotesappleandrhubarbapricotandlemonverbenapearandorgeatsyrupconfectioners’sugarconvectionovenscookingsaltscornstarchcountrybreadcreamcreamandpotatotartcreamoftartarcreamsalmondcreamcustardcrèmebrûléetartsCriollococoabeanscroissantsalmondcroissantschocolateandhazelnutcroissantshowtomakethecroissants

Page 444: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

howtomakethedoughpeachandlemonpastriespistachioandraspberryswirlscrostoli,FrenchvanillaculturedbuttercustardcustardalmondBasquecakemilkcustard

darkchocolatedateandpearpoundcakesdemerarasugardessertsseecakesanddessertsdextrosedirectmethod,ofbread-makingdoublecreamdoughnuts,cinnamonDutchcocoa

éclairs,strawberryandmandarineggwasheggselectricmixersequipment,forbaking

fan-forcedovensfermentationfigsfigandricottapastriesfigandrosepistachiotartfinesaltfinishingsaltsflakypuffpastryfleurdeselflorentinesflourflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakefocaccia,onionandanchovyfoodprocessorsForasterococoabeansfougassespotato,blackoliveandherbfougasseProvençalolivebreadsugarfougassefrangipanepie

Page 445: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

FrenchgastronomyFrenchpanettoneFrenchtoastFrenchvanillacrostolifriands,raspberryandcoconutfructosefulllevainmethod,ofbread-making

glucoseglutengnocchi,clamandpestogoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartgruyèrecheesesticksgruyèrebéchamel-filledpuffs

hailsugarhaloumiswirlsandolivetapenadehambluecheeseandprosciuttotartsilverbeetandraisintarthazelnutshazelnutandchocolatecroissantshazelnutandchocolatespreadhazelnutpalmiersheavycreamherb,potatoandblackolivefougasseheterolacticfermentation

icedpuffpastryfingersicingsugarimmersionblendersingredientsweighingofinstantdryyeastinvertedpuffpastryjamshortbreadsjamsmilkjampepperedpineappleraspberryandcoconutrockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonstrawberry,mintandlimeseealsospreads

kitchenscales

Page 446: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

knives

laurel,chickenandleekpieslavenderlavenderandcandiedlemonswitholiveoilcakelavendercrèmebrûléetartsleaveningagentsleek,chickenandlaurelpieslemonverbenaandapricotcompotelemonscandiedlemonsandlavenderwitholiveoilcakeconfitlemon,rockmelonandcinnamonjamlemonandanisenun’spuffslemonandbasilmeringuetartlemonandpeachpastrieslevain(starter)levaincheflightcreamlime,mintandstrawberryjamliquoriceandbananatartloaftins

macaronsmacaroons,coconut,withorgeatsyrupmadeleinesmaizecornflourmaizeflourmaizestarchmaizenamandarinsmandarinandstrawberryéclairsmandarin-chocolatesaucewithbakedcheesecakeMargheritapizzameringuelemonandbasilmeringuetartmilkchocolatemilkjammint,strawberryandlimejamMoroccanorangeandalmondcake,flourlessmuffins,bananaandcaramel

Nancymacaronsnavettesnibbedsugarnun’spuffs,lemonandanise

Page 447: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

olivesblackolive,potatoandherbfougasseoliveoilandorangeblossomsweetbreadoliveoilcakewithcandiedlemonsandlavenderolivetapenadeandhaloumiswirlsProvençalolivebreadonionandanchovyfocacciaorangescandiedorangepeelandpearlsugarbriocheflorentinesflourlessMoroccanorangeandalmondcakeorangeandcinnamonlacetuilesorangeblossomandcaramelricecakesorangeblossomandoliveoilsweetbreadorangeblossomnavettesorange,ricotta,chocolateandpastistartspicedorangeandalmondtartorgeatsyrupcoconutmacaroonswithpearcompotewithovens

palmiers,hazelnutpanettone,Frenchparingknivesparmesanandgruyèrecheesestickspasta,clamandpestognocchipastis,chocolate,ricottaandorangetartpastriesbasicingredientsblindbakingessentialtoolsformakingliningthetinsrollingthepastrysavouryshortcrustpastryshortbreadpastrysweetshortcrustpastryseealsochouxpastry;puffpastrypeachandlemonpastriespeanutbutterandmilkchocolatepuffspearlsugarpearlsugarandcandiedorangepeelbriochepearlsugarpuffspearspearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueur

Page 448: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

pearanddatepoundcakespearandorgeatsyrupcompotepectinpepperedpineapplejampestoandclamgnocchipiesseetartsandpiespineapplejampipingbagsandnozzlespistachiospistachioandraspberryswirlspistachio,chocolateandalmondbiscuitspistachio,figandrosetartpizzaschocolateandbananaMargheritapoolishmethod,ofbread-makingpotatoespotatoandcreamtartpotato,blackoliveandherbfougassepoundcakes,dateandpearpouringcreamprosciuttoandbluecheesetartProvençalolivebreadprovingtimes,forbreaddoughpuffpastrybakedapplesinpastrywithCalvadosandvanillabeancheesesticksfrangipanepiefreezingofgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltarthazelnutpalmiershowtomakeicedpuffpastryfingersmethodsofmakingolivetapenadeandhaloumiswirlspotatoandcreamtartricottaandfigpastriesspeckandpumpkintartpuffsseechouxpastrypumpkinandspecktartpureicingsugar

quichelorraine

raisins

Page 449: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

raisinandsilverbeettartraisinandwalnutloafsnailsraspberrieswithchocolateganachetartraspberryandcoconutfriandsraspberryandcoconutjamraspberryandpistachioswirlsrawsugarrefractoryovensrhubarbrhubarbandapplecompoteupside-downappleandrhubarbtartricecakes,caramelandorangeblossomricottaricottaandfigpastriesricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartringmouldsrocksaltrockmelon,cinnamonandconfitlemonjamrose,figandpistachiotartroughpuffpastryroulades

saffron,apricotandyoghurtpocketssaltsaltflakessaltedcaramelsaltedcaramelganachewithchestnutcakesaltedcaramelspreadsavouryshortcrustpastryhowtomakescalesseasaltserratedknivesshortbread,jamshortbreadpastry,howtomakeshortcrustpastrysavourysweetsiliconematssilverbeetandraisintartsinglecreamsouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulis

Page 450: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

sourdoughbreadflourformethodformakingspatulasspecksilverbeetandraisintartspeckandpumpkintartspreadshazelnutandchocolatemilkjamsaltedcaramelseealsojamsstaticovenssteelspatulasstickblendersstrawberriesChartreusesouffléwithpepperedstrawberrycoulisjamshortbreadsstrawberryandmandarinéclairsstrawberry,mintandlimejamsugarsugarbriochesugarfougassesweetshortcrustpastry,howtomake

tartringstartsandpiesalmondandspicedorangetartalmondcustardBasquecakebeefburgundypiebluecheeseandprosciuttotartcherryclafoutischicken,leekandlaurelpieschocolateganachetartwithfreshraspberriesfigandrosepistachiotartgoat’scheese,tomatoandbasiltartlavendercrèmebrûléetartslemonandbasilmeringuetartliquoriceandbananatartpearandalmondcreamtartwithpearliqueurpotatoandcreamtartricotta,orange,chocolateandpastistartsilverbeetandraisintartspeckandpumpkintart

Page 451: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

upside-downappleandrhubarbtartseealsopastriesthermometersthickcreamtinstomato,goat’scheeseandbasiltarttools,forbakingTrinitariococoabeanstuilesalmondorangeandcinnamonupside-downappleandrhubarbtart

vanillaFrenchvanillacrostolivanillabeanandCalvadoswithbakedapplesinpastry

walnutswalnutandchocolatebutterfudgecakewalnutandraisinloafwheatencornflourwhippingcreamwhitechocolate‘windowpane’test

yeastyoghurtyoghurt,apricotandsaffronpocketsyoghurtbread

zest,fordecoration

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Page 453: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

Acknowledgments

LMymosthumblethankyoutomyfirstchef,RobertSchicchi,fornotonlyteachingmetheskillsbut,moreimportantly,foropeningmyeyestoanalmostnever-endingworldoflearninganddiscovery.

LMyabsolutethankstoJuliaTaylorforyourhelpduringthoselongnightsofbaking,andforyourunwaveringsupport.

LMaximumrespectandthankstomygreatteamofpastrychefsatLaRenaissancePâtisserieandBaroqueBistro,pastandpresent,yourock!

LAverybigthankyoutotheCharkosfamilyforallyoursupport.

LParisCutler,thankyousomuchformakingitallpossibletobeginwith.

LAnd,ofcourse,alltheamazinglypatient,talentedandsupportivepeopleatMurdochBooks:DianaHillandSueHinesforactuallyentrustingmewiththisbookfromthestart…mercibeaucoup.

LTheteamofeditors:BarbaraMcClenahan,KimRowneyandChristineOsmond—Iliterallyhavenoideahowyouputupwithmeandmyconvolutedmanuscript,thankyou.

LVivienValk,whatcanIsay,yourdesignmakesmelookalotbetterthanIam…thebookisjustbeautiful.

LSteveBrown,foryourincrediblepictures,strongcoffeesandfinetunes,andJaneHann,whocan,quiteliterally,makeanythinglookstunning.

Page 454: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

Publishedin2015byMurdochBooks,animprintofAllen&Unwin

MurdochBooksAustralia83AlexanderStreetCrowsNestNSW2065Phone:+61(0)284250100Fax:+61(0)[email protected]

MurdochBooksUKEricoHouse,6thFloor93–99UpperRichmondRoadPutney,LondonSW152TGPhone:+44(0)[email protected]

ForCorporateOrders&CustomPublishingcontactNoelHammond,NationalBusinessDevelopmentManager,MurdochBooksAustralia

Publisher:DianaHillEditorialManager:BarbaraMcClenahanDesigner:VivienValkProjectEditor:KimRowneyPhotographer:SteveBrownStylist:JaneHannFoodEditor:ChristineOsmondProductionManager:MaryBjelobrk

Text©JeanMichelRaynaud2015Themoralrightsoftheauthorhavebeenasserted.Design©MurdochBooks2015Photography©SteveBrown2015

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystemortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.

Acataloguing-in-publicationentryisavailablefromthecatalogueoftheNationalLibraryofAustraliaatnla.gov.au.

ISBN9781925267082(ebook)

AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary.

ColourreproductionbySplittingImageColourStudioPtyLtd,Clayton,Victoria

IMPORTANT:Thosewhomightbeatriskfromtheeffectsofsalmonellapoisoning(theelderly,pregnantwomen,youngchildrenandthosesufferingfromimmunedeficiencydiseases)shouldconsulttheirdoctorwithanyconcernsabouteatingraweggs.

OVENGUIDE:Youmayfindcookingtimesvarydependingontheovenyouareusing.Forfan-forcedovens,asageneralrule,settheoventemperatureto20°C(35°F)lowerthanindicatedintherecipe.

MEASURESGUIDE:Wehaveused20ml(4teaspoon)tablespoonmeasures.Ifyouareusinga15ml(3teaspoon)tablespoonaddanextrateaspoonoftheingredientforeachtablespoonspecified.

Page 455: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud
Page 456: The French Baker by Jean Michel Raynaud

LFromFrench-bornmasterpâtissierJeanMichelRaynaudcomesaninspirationalandachievableguidetodeliciousFrench-stylebakingforthehomekitchen.

TheFrenchBakerfeatures95tantalisingsweetandsavouryrecipes—forbiscuits,cakes,tarts,pies,pastries,croissants,breads,jamsandspreads—allsupportedbyexperthintsandcookingtips.Photographicstep-by-stepsectionsprovidevisual

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referenceformakingshortcrust,chouxandpuffpastry,aswellasbrioches,breadsandcroissants.

JeanMichel’srecollectionsofhistrainingandworkasapâtissierarewoventhroughthisstunningbook,togetherwithfascinatinginsightsintoFrenchtraditionandculture.

JeanMichelRaynaudisheadpâtissierofSydney’sLaRenaissancePâtisserieandBaroqueBistro.BorninFrance,hebeganhiscareerunderthetutelageofmasterpâtissierRobertSchicchiinMarseilles,andwasaheadpastrychefbytheageof20.JeanMichelhasappearedontelevision,writtenformagazinesandcontributedrecipestoseveralbooks.


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