How To Contro l Moles
b y B r a d F r e s e n b u r g , E x t e n s i o n T u r f g r a s s S p e c i a l i s t
In this issue:
How To Control
Moles
1,
2, 6
April Gardening
Calendar
3
Easy Varieties For
Beginning
Gardeners
3
Plant Families -
Catalpa Family
4
Pest of the Month 5
Organic Pesticide:
Spinosad
5
Missouri Urban
Trees
6
Myth “Organic =
No Spray”
7
Drying Flowers 8
Upcoming Events 9
Editor’s Corner 10
A monthly gardening publication of the University of Missouri Extension -- Southeast and East Central Regions
April 2015
The Garden Spade
however they are well aware of the
damage caused to lawns and
ornamental beds. Mounds of soil
(molehills) and surface tunnels (feeding
runways) are the common signs of
mole presence. Learning to use
repellents, traps,
and baits and
making use of a
broom handle or
similar stick can
greatly reduce mole
activity in as little as
three hours. The
following
information will
provide you the
most efficient
methods of mole
control.
Moles live most of their life
underground and are highly specialized
animals for their subterranean way of
life. The Eastern Mole is a small, sturdy
animal, 5 ½ to 8 inches long, with a
somewhat cylindrical body and
elongated head. The Eastern Mole is
grayish-brown on the back to pale or
more brown on the belly. Their
velvety fur often has a silvery sheen.
Occasionally bright orange or
cinnamon-yellow marking will occur.
Their fleshy snout serves as a highly
sensitive organ of touch and smell to
seek out numerous food sources.
University of Missouri, Lincoln
University, U.S. Department of
Agriculture & Local University
Extension Councils Cooperating
equal opportunity/ADA
institutions
Will they ever go away? It seems much
worse this year than ever before and
with the mild winter; did they ever
hibernate? Most individuals will say,
“No”. Feeding runways were observed
being pushed up even under what snow
we did get. As long
as the soil remains
wet and unfrozen,
we will see activity.
Many turfgrass
managers, gardeners
and homeowners
feel that the
presence of moles is
due to the presence
of white grubs.
Their first reaction
is to apply a grub
insecticide when mole activity begins in
spring. While moles do feed on white
grubs, grubs are not present at this
time of year (late winter to early
spring). Their primary food source is
earthworms and many grub insecticides
applied now, are known to reduce
beneficial earthworm populations up to
70%. Mole activity decreases due only
to the depletion of their primary food
source, so they leave the area. In time,
earthworms and moles will return.
Therefore, grub insecticides should not
be used for mole control.
Most people have never seen a mole;
Moles will feed and rest on two-hour cycles daily in
search of earthworms and other insects. This high
activity makes trapping and baiting effective
methods for mole control. The key to successful
trapping and baiting is locating active feeding
runways.
The Garden Spade Page 2
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
Their tiny eyes are concealed in fur and covered by
fused eyelids; sight is limited to distinguishing light
from dark. The greatly enlarged front feet are
normally held with the soles vertical and pointing
outward. They possess well-
developed claws that have a
specialized bone attached to the
wrist, which aids in digging.
Moles construct networks of
tunnels in the soil surface. Many
of these are built after rains when
the mole is in search of new
sources of food and are usually
not re-used from day to day.
Digging of surface tunnels normally proceeds at a
rate of 1 foot per minute. They tend to feed and
rest on two-hour cycles, 24 hours a day. They are
carnivores and living organisms constitute about 85
percent of their diet. This
includes earthworms (their main
source of water) and grubs,
primarily; however millipedes,
centipedes, spiders, sow bugs,
snails and slugs are taken in
considerable amounts. Moles are
insatiable eaters and can consume
70 to 80 percent of their body
weight daily. Moles generally
move up or down within the soil
profile to follow food sources
such as earthworms, which move
with soil moisture.
Moles also create mounds (called
molehills) of soil in the lawn by
pushing up soil developing deeper, permanent
tunnels and nesting cavities. Mating occurs in the
spring with a single annual litter of 2 to 5 young
being produced in March, April or the first week of
May. High infestations consist of 2 to 3 moles per
acre.
How To Contro l Moles
b y B r a d F r e s e n b u r g , E x t e n s i o n T u r f g r a s s S p e c i a l i s t
Repellents usually contain castor bean oil as the
active ingredient. Repellents need to be applied on
a regular basis as a spray or granular application.
They can be effective if application rates, frequency
and techniques are strictly followed
according to the label. Several
brands of mole repellents include
Chase, Liquid Fence, Molemax, Mole
Out, Mole Scram, and Scoot Mole.
Trapping and baiting become the
best methods for mole control due
to the feeding habits of moles. Their
frequent feeding activity allows for
effective trapping and baiting in just
a few hours. The following steps will increase your
success for controlling moles:
1. Use of a broom handle or similar stick to poke
holes through the top of feeding tunnels at random
throughout the tunnel
network.
2. Re-visit those holes in
two to three hours and
inspect. A hole re-plugged
with soil indicates a mole
passed through that feeding
tunnel making it an active
feeding tunnel for that day. Not
all feeding tunnels are used
daily.
3. Set traps on or insert baits
into active feeding tunnels. Use
rubber gloves to set traps or
insert baits to reduce human
scent.
Continue to trap and bait until activity ceases.
Controlling a few moles in an average size lawn
(5000 square feet) will greatly reduce mole activity.
Effective traps include: “Easy Set” Mole Eliminator
scissor trap, the “Victor” and “Sweeney”.
Mole Runs
Possible controls options consist of repellents,
baits, Traps and poisons.
Apri l Gardening Ca lendar
B y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
Page 3 The Garden Spade
Easy Varieties for
Beginning
Gardeners
Vegetables
Lettuce
Tomatoes
Spinach
Radish
Zucchini
Onions
Green Beans
Perennials
Daylily
Coreopsis
Echinacea
Peony
Rudbeckia
Annuals
Zinnia
Marigold
Sunflowers
Petunias
Herbs
Basil
Oregano
Sage
Dill
Outdoor Plants and Ornamentals
Winter mulches should be removed from roses.
Ornamental grasses can be cut back and divided right now.
Plants bought out of greenhouses need to be hardened off before planting.
Lift, divide, and replant mums as soon as new shoots appear.
Scatter annual poppy seeds in flower borders. The fine seeds need no
covering. The plants grow rapidly and provide colorful flowers in early
summer.
Cut back blooming shrubs right after they have
bloomed.
Vegetable Gardening
Start cucumber, cantaloupe, summer squash, and
watermelon seed indoors in peat pots.
Plants started indoors should be hardened off outdoors
before being transplanted into the garden.
Plastic jugs make inexpensive, easy-to-use “hot caps” for vegetable seedlings.
Plant warm season vegetables after the chance of frost has passed.
Flower stalks should be removed from rhubarb plants, if they develop.
Fruits and Nuts
Pull mulches off the strawberry beds after last frost. Row covers can be
kept on until bloom.
Plant bare-root or potted fruits as soon as the soil can be worked.
Remove tree wraps from fruit trees now.
Protect bees and other pollinating insects. Do not spray insecticides on fruit
trees that are blooming.
Indoor plants
Prevent stem rot of house plants by potting up plants on a slight mound with
the soil sloping 1/4 inch lower at the edge of the pot.
Don’t be too anxious to move your house plants outdoors. Even a good
chill can knock the leaves off of tender plants.
Turfgrass
Start mowing cool season grasses at recommended heights.
Aerate turf if thatch is heavy or if soil is compacted.
Apply crabgrass preventers before April 15. Do no apply to areas that will
be seeded.
The Garden Spade Page 4
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
The family, Bignoniaceae, is a plant family with 110
genera and over 800 species of woody plants.
Many of these species are from the tropics sporting
common names that include Pink Trumpet Vine,
Trumpet Tree, Cat’s Claw Vine, Sausage Tree,
Flame Vine, and Cape
Honeysuckle.
Leaves in this family are
usually opposite or
bicompound with flowers
containing a five-lobed
calyx. This is not the case
for all plants in the family. Many plants produce
flat, winged seeds inside a capsuled fruit.
Common species from this family found in zones 4
to 8 include:
Catalpa bignonoides is a late spring or early summer
flowering tree, displaying white flowers with purple
and yellow interior spots. This tree easily reaches
70 feet in height. It was extensively planted for
wood in the 1700’s but is now planted for shade.
The large, heart shaped leaves provide a protective
cover for birds and other animals during rain or
storm. This tree prefers a moist, fertile loam soil
and medium to wet conditions but tolerates
drought, making it a possible candidate for a large
rain garden.
Plant Fami l ies - Cata lpa Fami ly
b y S a r a h D e n k l e r , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
Campsis radicans, Trumpet Creeper, is found vining
on trees, fence posts and electric posts. It will
attach to structures and grows densely, easily
reaching 40 feet. Some find the leaves and flowers
to be an irritant to the skin. This plant is easily
affected by overspray from chemicals showing leaf
curl or discoloration. This plant is tolerant of wind
and can be neglected. Hummingbirds love these
July blooming flowers.
Wild Crossvine, Bignonia capreolata, is a vine
bearing unscented flowers in May. Reaching 50 feet
it is found in forests. The name comes from the
cross shape of the stem when cut. It has been
cultivated as in the variety ‘Tangerine Beauty’ but
hummingbirds love each variety.
Berlin Botanical Gardens
Cambridge University Botanical Gardens
calyx
The Garden Spade Page 5
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
Greenbrier, catbrier, bullbrier, tramp’s trouble, and
biscuit-leaves are all common names for Smilax sp.
As most of these names imply, this is a plant I pre-
fer not to tangle with. Some
varieties are covered in wicked
thorns that will go through
clothing and heavy leather
gloves. These vining plants can
be found in all areas of the state
and we have four common spe-
cies. They have tendrils that
allow them to climb to 25 feet
or cover the ground. They flower in May to June
with separate male and female flowers, pollinated
by insects. The fruit is a dark colored berry that is
Pest o f the Month : Greenbr ier
b y K a t i e K a m m l e r , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
enjoyed by wildlife. The leaves are glossy and can
vary in shape from hearts, triangles, and eggs. This
plant can form dense thickets and be very hard to
control once established. In the
spring, tender new growth can
be eaten as fresh greens. The
roots of these species can be
used in making a drink like root
beer, in which molasses and sas-
safras are added. Boiling the
roots and adding sugar can make
an amber-colored sweet jelly
and this can be mixed with water to make a sweet
drink.
Organic Pest ic ide : Sp inosad
b y D o n n a A u f d e n b e r g , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
Spinosad is an insect killer that quickly kills a variety
of pests. It was discovered from soil in an
abandoned rum distillery in 1982. It is derived
from the fermentation of a bacteria call
Sacharopolyspora spinosa (a
naturally occurring soil
microorganism). It was developed in
the mid-1990s to be an insecticide.
Spinosad is a nerve and stomach
poison that must be ingested by
insects to kill them. Paralysis and
death occur within minutes although
insects may remain on the plant for
up to two days. Spinosad has limited
translaminar activity, meaning it can move
somewhat into leaf tissue. This makes it effective
against leafminers that feed within leaves.
Spinosad will control caterpillars and borers, thrips,
leafminers, sawflies, Colorado potato beetle. It is
not effective against sucking insect pests such as
bugs and aphids. It has very low toxicity to non-
target organisms including pollinators and other
beneficial insects.
The best thing about this spinosad products is the
safety for people, birds, fish and
beneficial insects. It is even safe for
adult butterflies and many insect
predators and parasites. However,
it is still toxic to bees so be careful
when applying to plants in flower.
Spinosad is listed by the Organic
Materials Review Institute (OMRI) as
acceptable for use during organic
farming and gardening and any use
where toxic chemicals are to be
avoided. Only a small amount per gallon is
required- about 4 tablespoons per gallon of water.
It’s very important not to spray spinosad more than
2 - 3 times per growing season to reduce the risk
of pests developing resistance to the active
ingredients.
Picture of Colorado Potato Beetle
courtesy of NC Cooperative Extension.
The Garden Spade Page 6
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
harpoon traps, and the “Nash”
hoop trap. Available baits include
Kaput Mole Control (syringe
applicator), Moletox Baited Gel
(syringe applicator), Talpirid
(earthworm shaped bait), Motomco
Mole Bait (earthworm and grub
shaped baits), and TomCat Mole
Killer (earthworm and grub shaped baits). Baits can
be up to 95% effective if used correctly. Always
How To Contro l Moles
b y B r a d F r e s e n b u r g , E x t e n s i o n T u r f g r a s s S p e c i a l i s t
wear latex gloves when handling traps and bait to
avoid human scent contamination.
Keep in mind that moles are a
perennial problem. When a void in
the carrying capacity (number of
moles a given area can support) of a
given area is realized, more moles will move in
searching for earthworms and other insects. For
this reason, trapping is the most economical
method of mole control.
Missour i Urban Trees
b y P e n n y S i t z e s , M a s t e r G a r d e n e r T r a i n e e , P o p l a r B l u f f , M O
V R M A S D F G S H J K L Z X C V B Q S
Z I U B Q M P Y Z W N O X E B U C Y W N
T W L Z M X C U C U M B E R T R E E N C
X O B T U A R Y A L H I S K D J E F H G
B C E B M H A W T H O R N Q P T W O E I
S Y R O S L B D K U L C F J G I N K G O
Q K R X N R A A B E L H R U V H U C I B
N E Y E S Z P Q L M Y I M I M O S A E E
A T E L J N P M H D B G P V F R C D Y X
G L H D E F L A E O C D W S Q S A E L M
P V Z E O D E G U G K Y Y J T E K H R G
I A X R Q M U N B W I N P O M C P K I L
E T W U A O A O D O G J E R U H P L X V
N Q E P T W I L L O W U C B E E E O A D
G J L L A X V I N D W R A Y I S R P S F
H E K Z C W B A M E T U N O S T S F H K
H O N E Y L O C U S T Z C B M N I W R Y
I P S F H K Z C B M N V X L J U M G D A
O U T E Q N V X L J G D A O U T M T E Q
B C Z K H F S P I Y R W V Y U B O I N O
W Z E X R C T V Y M O U N T A I N A S H
BALDCYPRESS CUCUMBERTREE HOLLY MIMOSA PERSIMMON
BIRCH DOGWOOD HONEYLOCUST MOUTAINASH SWEETGUM
BOXELDER ELM HORSECHESTNUT MULBERRY SYCAMORE
BUCKEYE GINKGO MAGNOLIA PAWPAW TULIP
CRABAPPLE HAWTHORN MAPLE PECAN WILLOW
A mole eating bait
(Top) and Easy Set
Mole trap (Right).
The Garden Spade Page 7
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
When people are asked to explain the term organic
they may either search their knowledge for a few
seconds to find an answer or immediately blurt out,
“organic means no chemicals are used.”
How many of you can truly explain organic or
really know what it means?
The USDA provides an organic certification
and label for foods grown by their organic
standards. These
standards state
farms must
demonstrate that
they are protecting
natural resources,
conserving
biodiversity and
using only approved
substances. The
certification verifies that irradiation, sewage sludge,
synthetic fertilizers, prohibited pesticides,
antibiotics, growth hormones and genetically
modified organisms are not used.
Notice that some pesticides are not prohibited and
composted manure can be used as can natural
fertilizers.
Looking beyond organic certification
‘organic’ is defined as anything made of
carbon or derived from living matter.
In general practice, organic gardening uses less
petroleum based products, returns as many organic
materials (such as crop residue or sewage sludge)
back to the soil as possible and utilizes crop
rotation and diversity in plant species to sustain
what is grown.
For some, organic gardening is a continuous
practice of gardening that promotes sustainability.
This means practices that maintain soil health with
minimal inputs for future growth, lowering the cost
of gardening.
Myth “Organ ic = No Spray”
b y S a r a h D e n k l e r , M U H o r t i c u l t u r e S p e c i a l i s t
In reality, any practice related to growing plants
should be done correctly, whether it is
conventional or done with minimal inputs.
Do not save or compost disease tissue, this
perpetuates the problem.
If 1 pound of nitrogen is what is needed then
do not apply 2 pounds, this is wasteful, costs
more and may end up in the water supply.
Identify a problem before attempting to control
it and then only apply what is necessary - when
it is necessary as control; applying a fungicide to
control a disease after the disease is present
does not control the disease.
Apply the correct amount; whether synthetic
or natural, if too much is applied it can
accumulate in soils.
Do not grow monocultures (a single plant
species in a given area). Even in landscaping a
monoculture will statistically succumb to
disease or insect pressure faster than a diverse
mix of species planted in a given area.
There are those who can argue passionately on
both sides of the issue. Develop an understanding
of the terms and what they truly mean. Organic
does not mean that no chemicals are being used.
There are natural chemicals available and some
natural chemicals that are prohibited on a certified
farm. There are man made chemicals that can be
used on certified organic farms.
In your own yard, what works best for you? If it is
your desire to do everything you can to minimize
your footprint on the environment do your part.
Examples include: building organic matter in the
soil, recycle everything possible from the trash, not
using chemicals. What examples can you think of?
Page 8 The Garden Spade
Secondar y Stor y Head l ine
It's that time again! As we plant our flower beds
and plan that special day for the Bride and Groom,
we wonder; "How can I preserve this memory and
all the beauty the blossoms provide?" Perhaps,
"Drying" is the answer for you. You will want to
decide how long you want the process to take and
how much money you want to spend. A few
examples you can choose from are: Air drying,
using desiccants, freeze drying, or using a glycerin
method. Some methods are
better for particular blooms than
others, so it is important you look
at each method before you begin a
project.
If it is important to you to
preserve the color of your blooms
you may consider the drying
method using desiccants. One
method uses oolitic sand which has a higher pH
level and will best preserve colors and shape. For
this method you will need the following supplies, all
of which can be purchased at a
craft store or online:
plastic box with airtight lid
oolitic sand
silica gel
Scissors
silicone spray
Here is the process:
1. Line the bottom of the box with a mixture of
(4) four parts oolitic sand and (1) one part silica
gel.
2. Cut the stem as close to the bloom as
possible. You will attach an artificial stem later.
3. Lay blossom face down in mixture. Adding
more mix to cover bloom. Do not let blooms
touch.
4. Place lid on box and store in a cool, dry,
dark place for 4-6 weeks. Do not leave more
than 8 weeks. Check blooms after 4 weeks to
see if process is complete. If so, gently brush
excess mixture from bloom and spray with
clear silicone. You may then add stems for your
project.
If you want to speed up the process you may use
the microwave to dry the blooms. Using the above
method, this is what you do. After placing blooms
in the box with the mixture, place the box in the
microwave (without the lid) and microwave on low
2-3 minutes and then check the
blooms. Roses like high heat while
daisies prefer low temperatures. It
may take longer depending on the
number of blooms in the box.
Other options:
Depending on your project,
you may consider pressing the
flowers for other craft uses. It is a
simple method using weight to flatten the
blossoms.
If you have an abundance of
blooms to be used for arrangements
and don't want the expense of
desiccants, you may choose to air dry
in bunches.
If you prefer a more natural, less
expensive process, equal parts of
borax and white cornmeal may be used
in the process described previously.
Silica gel is a popular method since it can be
used repeatedly for several years if instructions
are followed.
References:
HGIC 1151 Drying Flowers. Clemson Cooperative
Extension
Archive - Drying Flowers. Texas A&M University.
Also see MU Extension Guide G6540 Drying
Flowers and Foliage for Arrangements
http://extension.missouri.edu/p/g6540
Dr y ing F lowers
b y K a t h y T a y l o r , M a s t e r G a r d e n e r i n T r a i n i n g
Upcoming Events The following Master Gardener meetings are held each month. All
are welcome to attend. Please contact the local extension office to
confirm location if you did not attend the previous meeting.
Parkland MGs - 1st Monday at 6:30pm, Memorial United Methodist, Farmington,
MO
Poplar Bluff MGs - 1st Tuesday at 6:00pm at Holy Cross Church in Poplar Bluff,
MO (Do not meet in January)
Ste. Genevieve MGs - 2nd Thursday, at 6:30pm, Ste. Gen. County Extension.
Center
Cape Girardeau MGs - 3rd Thursday at 7:00pm, Cape County Extension. Center
Perry MGs - 4th Monday at 6:30pm, Perry County Extension. Center
Jackson Beekeepers - 4th Tuesday @ 7:00pm, First Presbyterian Church, 206 E
Washington, Jackson, MO
SEMO Honey Producers - 2nd Thursday @ 6:30pm, Church of Christ, Poplar
Bluff, MO (Do not meet in December or January)
Parkland Beekeepers - 3rd Tuesday @7:00pm, North College Center, Mineral
Area College, Park Hills, MO
South Central MO Beekeepers - 1st Friday, Howell Electric Coop, West Plains,
MO
April
9, 16, 23, 30 - Lunch and Learn Series, University of Missouri Extension
Center in Poplar Bluff, MO at noon. Fee $10.00. To register call
573-686-8064.
15 - Garden Workshop, Howell County Health Department, 180
Kentucky Street in West Plains, MO. To register call 417-256-
7078.
16 - Mushrooms and Herbs, Mineral Area College Continuing Education
16 to 19 - Dogwood Azalea Festival in Charleston, MO
25 - Society Annual Herb Sale from 8:30am to 2pm. www.wgherbs.org
25 - Cape County Master Gardeners Spring Garden Festival and Plant
Sale, Arena Park in Cape Girardeau from 8 am to 2 pm.
May
1 to 3 - Azalea Festival in Fredericktown, MO
14 - What’s Wrong with My Plant, Mineral Area College Continuing
Education
16 & 17 - Ste. Genevieve Garden Walk, Ste. Genevieve Welcome
Center
If you have a horticultural related event for the calendar call 573-686-8064 or email it to
Page 9 The Garden Spade
“Green Thumb” Garden Workshop Series
At the Shawnee Park Center in Cape
Girardeau, MO from 6 to 8 p.m.
April 7 Organic Gardening
April 21 Design Your Garden -
Raised Beds, Container and
Lasagna Gardening
May 5 Growing and Using Herbs
May 19 Fruit Production
June 9 Compost and Improving
Your Soil
July 7 Save Your Harvest - Canning
and Freezing Techniques
For more information or to register for
these free workshops, call 573-339-6340.
Sponsored by the University of Missouri
Extension Service, The Cape Girardeau
County Public Health Department and the
Cape Girardeau Parks & Recreation
Department.
Interested in beekeeping. Follow
the Missouri State Beekeepers
Association on Facebook or go to
scientificbeekeeping.com to connect
with knowledgeable groups.
The Garden Spade is published monthly by University of Missouri
Extension staff for individuals and families living in Southeast
and East Central Missouri. This newsletter is provided by your
local extension council.
Editors:
Katie Kammler, Plant Science Specialist
255 Market St., Ste. Genevieve, MO 63670
573-883-3548
Sarah Denkler, Horticulture Specialist
222 North Broadway Street, Poplar Bluff, MO 63901
573-686-8064
Donna Aufdenberg, Horticulture Specialist
304 High Street, PO Box 19, Marble Hill, MO 63764
573-238-2420
Editor ’s Corner
We welcome and encourage Master Gardener groups
and individuals to submit items to the newsletter. We
encourage the submission of any news such as
upcoming volunteer opportunities, community events
related to gardening, warm wishes or congratulations to
fellow gardeners. We also encourage Master
Gardeners sharing experiences and writing articles on
timely topics.
All entries into the group news sections must be
received by 4:30 on the15th of each month for the
following months news.
Email news to: [email protected],
[email protected], or [email protected]
Disclaimer: No special endorsement of mentioned
products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar
products not mentioned.
University of Missouri, Lincoln University, U.S. Department of Agriculture & Local University Extension Councils Cooperating equal opportunity/ADA institutions
Butler County Extension
222 North Broadway
Poplar Bluff, MO 63901
April 2015 Garden Spade