10
THE
GOLDEN CHERSONESE
AND TEE WAY THITHE R
By IS ABELLA L. BIRD (MRS. BISHOP)
AO'rHOR OF 'THE JIAWAIIAN ARCHIPELAGO,'
(A LADY'S LIli'E IN THE R OQJ<¥ MOUN'rAINS,' 'UNBEATEN 'l'RAOK.~ IN JA P A.N,'
N·rc.
W I TH MAP A N D ILLUSTRAT ONS '
" Down to the Golden Chersonese." lIhvroN, Par . Lost, Book Xl.
LONDON
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARL E STREET
1 883
[TIle riglt' of/mlls/allon is reserved. ]
CONTENTS.
INTIWDUCTORY CHAPTER.
'rhe A2trea OhC1'sonesus-The Conquest of Malacca-The Straits Settlements-The Configuration of the Peninsula-A Term Incognita--The Monsoons- Products of the Penirisula-The great Vampire-Beasts and Reptiles-Malignant and harmless Insects - Land and Water Birds-Traditions of Malay Immigration-Wild and Civilised Races -Kafirs·-The Samangs and Orangoutan - Characteristics of the' Jakuns-Babas and Sinkehs-'rhe Malay Physiognomy-Language and Literature-Malay Poetry and Music-Malay Astronomy-Education and Law - Malay Sports - Domestic Habits - Weapons Slavery and Debt Bondage-Government- "No Information."
Pages 1-27
LE'fTER 1.
The Steamer Volga-Days of Darkness-First View of Hongkong-Hongkong on Fire-Apathy of the HOllseless-Thc Fire breaks out again -An Eclipse of Gaiety 28-34
LETTER II.
A Delightful Climate-Imprisoned Fever Germs-" Pidjun " EnglishHongkong Harbour-Prosperity of Hongkollg-Rampageous Criminal Classes-Circum spice ! 35-41
LETTER III.
The s.s. Kin Kiang-First view of Canton-'l'he Island of Shameen-· England in Canton-'l'he Tartar City-Drains and Ban-icades- Canton at Night-Street Picturesqueness- Ghastly Gifts-Oriental Enchantments-'l'he Examination Hall 42-52
xii OONTENTS.
LET TEB. IV.
" Fllithful unto Death "-" Foroign Devils "-Junks and Boats- Chineso Luxury-Canton Afloat- An Al F1'esco Lunoh- Light and Colou1'A mundane Disappointment-Street Sights and Sounds-Street Costume-Food and Restaumnts-A Marriage Procession- Temples and Worship-Crippled Feet . Pages 53-66
LETT EB. IV.-(Continued.)
Outside the Naam-hoi Prison-The Punishment of the Cangue-Crime and Misery-A Birthday Banquet-I< Prisoners and Captives"Prison Mortality-Cruelties and Iniquities-The Porch of the Mandarin- The Judgment-Seat-'l'he Precincts of the Judgment-Seat An Aged Claimant-Instruments of Punishment-- The Question by Torture 67 -79
LET'rER IV.-:(Continued_)
The" Covent Garden " of Canton- Preliminaries of Executioll-A Death Procession - The " Field of Blood "-" The Death of the Cross"A Fair Comparison 80-85
LE'l'TER V.
Portuguese Missionaries - A Chinese Hospital-Chinese AnrestheticsSurgery and Medicine - Ventilation and Cleanliness - A Chinese "Afternoon Tea "'- A new Inspirat ion . 86-92
LETTER VI.
A Cochin -China River- Tho Ambition of Saigon-A :b'rench Colonial Metropolis-European Hfe in Saigon-A Cochin-Chinese Village"Afternoon Tea" in Choquan-Anamese Children- Ana mite Costume -Anamite River-DweUings- An Amphibious Population- An Unsuccessful Colony-" With the Big Toe "-Three Persecuting KingsSaigon 93-106
LE'l'TER VII.
Beauties of the Tropics-Singapore Hospitality-An Eqllatorial Metro-
I
CONTENTS. xiii
polis-An aimless Existence-The Growth of Singapore-" Farms" and" Farmers "-The Staple of Conversation-The Glitter of "Barbaric Gole1 "-A Polyglot Popu1ation-A mediocre People-Female Grace and Beauty-CJ.'he "Asian Mystery"-Oriental Picturesqueness-The Metamorphosis of Singapore . Pages 107-120
LETTER VIII.
St. Andrew's Cathedral-Singapore Harbour Scenes-Chinese Preponderance-First Impressions of Malacca-A Town" Out of the Running. "
121·125
LETTER IX.
The Lieutenant-Governor of MahLCca-A charming Household-The Old Stadthaus-A stately Habitation-An endless Siesta-A Tropie Dream-Chinese Houses-Chinese Wealth and Ascendency-'.' Opium Farming" - The Malacca Jungle - Mollammedan 'Burhll-Places Malay Villages-Malay Characteristics-Costume and Ornament Bigotry and Pilgrimage-The Malay Buffalo 126-141
LETTER X.
Malacca Medirevalism-Tigel' Stories-The Chinese Carnival-Gold and Gems-A Weight of Splendour-New Year Rejoicings-Syed Abdulrahman-A Mohammedan Princess-A Haunted City - Francis Xavier -The reward of "Pluck "-Projects of Travel 142-153
A CHAP'l'ER ON SUNGEI UJONG.
'rhe Puzzles of the Peninsu]a-Sungei Ujong-A Malay ConfederationSyed Abdulrahmall-The Revenue of Sungei Ujong-Scellery and Productions-The new Datu Klan a-A "Dual Control" 154·161
LETTER XI.
A Mangrove Swamp-Jungle Dwellers-The Sempang Police StationShooting Alligators-The River Linggi-A sombre· faced ThrongStuck fast at Permatang Pasir-Fair Impediments 162·169
LETTER XII.
The Tomb of "a great Prophet "-" Durance Vile "-Fragile 'l'ravellers
xiv CON'l'ENTS.
- Our Craft-A Night in theJ ungle- Nocturnal Revelations-J anual'Y in the Perak Jungle-Glories of the Jungle-Activity and StillnessAn uneasy Night-A sliJn Repast--Betel Chewing-A severe Disappointment-Police Station at Rassa . . Pages 170-183
LET'l'ER XIII.
The Appurtenan ces of Civilisation - Babu - Characteristics of Captain Murray-An embodied Government-Chinese mining EnterpriseA Chinese Gaming-house-The " Capitans China "-New Year Visits - Sittings" In Equity "-A Court of Justice-The Serambang Prison - " Plantation Hill "-A monster Bonfire-An Ant World-An Ant l!'unel'al-Night on " Plantation Hill "-'rhe murder of Mr. Lloyd-A Chinese Dragon Play-A visit to a Malay Prince-·The Datu Ban dar's House-A great Temptation-The return Journey-An obituary Quotation 184·206
A CHAPTER ON stLINGOR
Sillangor-Capabilities of Selangol'-Natural Capabilities- Lawlessness in Selangor-British Interference in SClangol'-A Hopeful Outlook.
207-213
LETT E R XIV.
The s.s. Rainbow-Sunset at Malacca-A Night at Sea-The Residency at Klang-Our "N ext-of-kin " - The decay of Klang- A remarkable Chinaman - Theatrical Magnificence - Misdeed of a "Rogue Elephant" -" A cobra! a cobra ! " 214-223
LETTER XIV.-(Continued.)
Yachting in the Malacca Straits-A 'i'ropic Dream- The Rajah MoussaTiger Stories-A grand Excitement-A" Man-eating K1'is "-A royal Residence - A Council of State - The Sultan's Attendants - The ., Light of the Harem "- The Sultan's Offering 224-234
LETTER XV.
Tiger Mosquitos -, Insect Torments-A I-Iac1ji's Fate-Malay Custom-Oaths and Lies- A false Alarm 235-240
/
CON'l'ENTS. xv
LETTER XVI.
A Yachting Voyage-The Destruction of SeIangor-Varieties of SlimeSwamp Fever-An Unprosperous 'Region-A "Deadly-Lively" Morning-A Waif and' Stray~The Superintondent of Police.
Pages 241-248
LETTER XVII.
The Dindings-The Tragedy on Pulu Pangkor-A Tropic Sunrise- Sir W. Robinson's Departnre-" A Touch of the Sun "- Kling Beauty-A Question and Answer- The Bazaars of Georgetown-The Chinaman goes Ahead- The Products of Pinang-Pepper Planting 249 -259
A CHAPTER ON PiRAK
The Boundaries and Rivers of Perak- Tin Mining-Fruits and Vegetables -The Gomuti Palm- The Trade of Perak- A Future of Coffee- A Hopeful Outlook-Chinese Difficulties-Chinese Disturbances in Larut - The" Pangkor Treaty" - A "Little War" --The Settlement of Pemk-The Resident and Assistant-Resident 260-272
LETTER XVIII.
Province Wellesley-Water Buffaloes-A Glorious Night- Pemk Officials -A "Dismal Swamp" -Elephants at Home-An Epigrammatic Description-The British Residency at Taipeng- Sultun Abdullah's Boys - A Chinese Mining Town-The "Armed Police" - An Alli gator's Victim- Major Swinburne-A Larut Dinner-party- A Morning Hymn 273-287
LETTER. XIX.
The Chinese in Lurut-" Monkey Cups "-Chinese Hospitality-A Sikh Bello 288-291
LETTE R XX.
Novel Circumstances- The Excitements of the Jungle-Eternal Snmmer - The Sensitive Plant-The Lotus Lake of Matang-Elephant Ugli ness- A Malay Mahout-A Novel Experience- Domestic Pets--Malay Hospitality- Land Leeches-" A Fearful Joy"-The end of my First Elephant Ride-Kwala Kallgsa 292-305
• PERPUSTAKMN
NEGARAMALAYSlA
xvi CON'fENTS.
LET'fER XX.-(Continued.)
Mystificatioll-A Grotesque Dinner-party-Mahmoud and Eblis-Fun and Frolic-Mahmoud's Autics- A Perak Jungle-The Poetry of Tropical Life-Village Life-The Offwials of the Mosques- A Moslem Funeral - The " Royal Elephant "- Swimming the Perak- The Village of Koto-lamah-A "Pirate's Nest "-Rajah Dris . Pages 306-320
LET'l'ER XX.-(Oontinued.)
A Joyous Welcome- A Severe Mortification - The British Resident - _ Daily Visitors-Rajah Dris- A Tipsy Ape- Marriage CeremoniesMarriage Festivities- Malay Children-The Rajah Mllda Yusuf-A Dreary Funeral-Fascinating Companionship- A Coco-nut Gatherer - The Argus Pheasant- An Opium Wreck-Rhinoceros Hol'llsElephant Taming-Petrifying Influences of Islamism-A Dwindling Race 321-339
LETTER XXI.
A Malay Interior-Malay Bird-Searing-Rice Culture-Picturesque Dismalness-A Bad Spell- An Alarm- Possibilities of Peril-Patience and Kindness-Masculine Clatter 340-348
LETTER XXII.
A Pleasant Cuntel'- A Morning Hymn- The Pass of Bukit Berapit-'l'he "Wearing World" Again !-A Bad Spirit - Malay Demonology"Running Amuck" - An Amok Runner's Career-The Supposed Origin of Antdlc-Jungle Openings in Perak - Debt -Slavery- The Fate of Three Runaway Slaves-Moslem Prayers-" Living like Leeches "-Malay Proverbs-A" Ten-thousand-mun Umbrella"
349-364
LE TTER XXIII.
" Gang Murders "-Malay Nicknames-A Persecuted Infant- The Last of the Golden Chersonese 365-368
A p PENDIX 36 9-379
I NDEX 38]
THE GOLDEN OHERSONESE.
INTRODUOTORY OHA~TER
OANTON and Saigon, and whatever else is comprised in the second half of my title, are on one of the best beaten tracks of travellers, and need no introductory remarks .
. But the GOLDEN OHERSONESE is still somewhat of a terra incogn'ita; there is no point on its mainland at which European steamers call, and the usual conception of it is
. asa vast and malarious equatorial jungle sparsely peopled by a race of semi-civilised, and treacherous Mohammedans. In fact it is as little known to most people as it was to myself before I visited it, and as reliable information concerning it exists mailily in valuable volumes now out of print, or scattered through blue books and the transactions of the Asiatic Society of Singapore, I make no apology for prefacing my letters from the Malay Peninsula with as many brief preliminary statements as shall serve to make them intelligible, requesting those of my readers who are familiar with the subject to skip this chapter altogether.
The Aurea Ohersonesus of Ptolemy, the " Golden Ohersonese" of Milton, the Malay Peninsula of our day, has no legitimate claim to an ancient history. The controversy respecting the identity of its Mount Ophir with the Ophir of Solomon bas been" threshed out" without much result, and the supposed allusion to the Malacca Straits by Pliny is too vague to be interesting.
B !
2 THE GOLDEN CHERSONESE. JNTROD.
The region may be said to have been rediscovered in 15 13 by the Portuguese, and the firs t definite statement concerning it appears to be in a letter from Emanuel, King of Portugal, to the Pope. In the antique and exaggerated language of the day, he relates that his general, the famons Albuquerque, after surprising conquests in India, had sailed to the A 'urea Ghe1'sonesus, called by its inhabitants Malacca. He had captured the city of Malacca, sacked it, slaughtered.
. the Moors (Mohammedans) who defended it, destroyed its twenty-five thousand houses abounding in gold, pearls, precious stones, and spices, and on its site had built a fortress with walls fi fteen feet thick, out of the ruins of its mosques. The king, who fought upon an elephant, was badly wounded and fled. Further, on hearing of the victory, the King of Siam, from whom Malacca had been " usurped by the Moors," sent to the conqueror a cup of gold, a carbuncle, and a sword inlaid with gold. This conquest was vaunted of as a great triumph of the Cross over the Crescent, and as its result, by the year 16 00, nearly the whole commerce of the Straits had fallen into the hands of the Portuguese.
Of the remaining "Moorish" or Malay kingdoms, Acheen, in Sumatra, was the most powerful, so powerful, indeed, that its king was able to besiege the great stronghold of Malacca more than once with a fleet, according to the annalist, of " more than five hundred sail, one hundred of which were of greater size than any then constructed in Europe, and the warriors or mariners that it bore amounted to sixty thousand, commanded by the king in person." The first mention of Johore, or Jhor, and Perak occurs about the same time, Perak being represented as a very powerful and wealthy State.
The Portuguese, by their persevering and relentless religious crusade against the Mohammedans, converted all the States which were adjacent to their conquests into
