48  delicious.

Surry Hills is a suburb of contrasts. Just as multi-million dollar terraces and sleek warehouse conversions share space with student flats and homeless shelters, dining options range from hatted fine diners and hip tapas joints to funky cafes and low-key Thai takeaways. Wine bars and atmospheric pubs are also well-represented, making this inner-city enclave a destination of choice for Sydney’s equally wide cross-section.

where to eatBentley RestauRant & BaRIf you like your dinner with the kind of precise presentation that belongs in a gallery, then Brent Savage’s cutting-edge restaurant may be your culinary Louvre. Create a meal out of tapas options, perhaps tangy marinated anchovies dusted with pistachio praline, or cod and potato crostini, or look to the succinct, but no less

successful, main menu. Desserts are other-worldly, artistic delights, particularly an ingenious combination of carrot cake with black olive sorbet and crunchy coffee ‘soil’. With so much happening on the plate, choosing a wine to suit might seem daunting, so let award-winning sommelier and co-owner Nick Hildebrandt guide you through his exceptional global list. 320 Crown St, (02) 9332 2344.

When it comes to eating out, Sydney’s hip Surry Hills has all its bases covered, from cutting-edge French fare to Indian sweet shops and Japanese ramen joints.

WORDS saRah macdonald & selma nadaRajah PHOTOGRAPHY maRK RoPeR

the guide.

surry hills

Foveaux RestauRant & BaROnce you make your way from the bar to the small dining room with views of the kitchen, you’ll see why Darrell Felstead’s modern menu won him SMH Good Food Guide’s Best New Restaurant 2008. There’s a bit of fun and a touch of science in dishes such as slow-roasted pork and braised hare with chestnut chips, toast puree and pork crumbs. Desserts, too, are creative but satisfying – think chocolate rocks, peanut mousse and raspberry jelly with a salted peanut biscuit. The wine list ranges from local heroes to $1000-plus Burgundies. 65-67 Foveaux St, (02) 9211 0664.

maRQue RestauRantThis elegant – albeit occasionally noisy – dining room is home to smooth service, outstanding wines and a fine-dining menu sprinkled with molecular gastronomy. Chef Mark Best’s passion for French food and good produce is showcased in dishes like Ulladulla pheasant with roast onion rings and crisp potato skins, or an entree of duck ‘ham’ with witlof, parmesan custard and caramelised onion powder. There’s also an eight-course degustation, including a luscious Sauternes custard with caramel, surely one of Sydney’s best desserts. 4/5 355 Crown St, (02) 9332 2225.

RestauRant assietteWhen Justin North’s Becasse upped sticks in 2005, fellow Banc alumni Warren Turnbull slipped into the space; a union that’s as perfectly paired as the salmon and beetroot in his fine starter. Along with this three-part ensemble of smoked salmon terrine with beetroot sorbet; beetroot- and vodka-cured salmon; and beetroot agar-agar with salmon tartare, the menu may include roast and confit chicken with bread puree, or lamb with mint hollandaise. All display the modern French sensibility he developed under UK super chef Marco Pierre White. 48 Albion St, (02) 9212 7979.

The ‘Nachos’ at Foveaux Restaurant & Bar. Clockwise from below: Foveaux chef Darrell Felstead; Billy Kwong; Toko’s elegant dining room; its kingfish sashimi; Bentley Restaurant & Bar; Bentley chef Brent Savage; landmark eatery Billy Kwong; and new wine bar Millevini.

50  delicious.

For more provincial French, look to Tabou (527 Crown St, (02) 9319 5682), which, at the time of writing, was welcoming Alasdair McKenna into the fold following long-standing chef Jacob Brown’s return to New Zealand.

longRain Set within a 100-year-old warehouse, this sprawling space buzzes with a chic crowd flocking for a Martin Boetz fix. Plunge in at the communal table and tuck into modern Thai statements like braised wagyu beef peanut curry or a vegetarian version of the signature eggnet, where beads of pomelo replace the pork. Or just perch at the bar while juggling an explosive smoked trout betel leaf with a muddled lychee cocktail. 85 Commonwealth St, (02) 9280 2888.

Billy KwongKylie Kwong’s renowned restaurant does a roaring trade in excellent mod-Chinese, created with organic and biodynamic produce. The compact, climate-neutral eatery boasts fantastic scallop wontons, crispy duck in blood-orange sauce, and specials of line-caught fish with ginger and shallot. 3/355 Crown St, (02) 9332 3300.

Another modern Asian option, Mahjong Room (312 Crown St, (02) 9361 3985) offers homestyle Chinese with a twist, like soft-shell crab san choy bao and sticky ribs with lychee. Monthly PlayLunches blend mahjong sessions with yum cha.

Red lanteRn The family influence is strong at this Vietnamese eatery, with brother and sister Luke and Pauline Nguyen and Pauline’s partner Mark Jensen at the helm. Authentic dishes – from fragrant banana blossom salad to clay-pot caramel salmon – are prepared with a flair befitting the smart surrounds. To drink, choose from a list aptly loaded with light reds and aromatic whites. 545 Crown St, (02) 9698 4355.

toKoUrbanites love this polished dining room for its mod-Japanese menu and laidback yet sophisticated vibe. Come early to avoid being squeezed in on a communal table or

along the open kitchen (though the drama makes for great entertainment). Chef Keita Abe’s menu is extensive, so skip the usual suspects of tempura and sushi in favour of specials like deep-fried sole served in its own skeleton, which is crisp enough to eat. Paired with a sake cocktail, this is Sydney at its best. 490 Crown St, (02) 9357 6100.

If it’s creative Japanese you seek, then map the route to the quirky Uchi Lounge (15 Brisbane St, (02) 9261 3524). Start with a Shoga Teenie of ginger sake and gin in the bar, then squeeze into the hip restaurant. Servings are small, but reasonably priced, so order up. Be sure to include nutty miso eggplant with parmesan, and kingfish sashimi with olive oil and umeboshi (salted plum), a dish that has the elusive umami, or ‘fifth taste’ the Japanese so value.

BodegaBen Milgate and Elvis Abrahanowicz describe their Spanish and South American tastes as “rock ‘n’ roll tapas”. When you consider that options at this achingly hip eatery include morcilla (blood sausage) with apple and radish, and divine eggplant escabeche, you begin to understand why the cool crowd came in 2006, and never left. The room is tight and loud, and you can’t book, but the wait for a table is worth it. 1/216 Commonwealth St, (02) 9212 7766.

Around the corner, new Cru 54 (1/54 Foveaux St, (02) 9281 1054) is more sedate. White tables line a striped banquette offset by a black pressed-metal feature wall. The tapas ranges from traditional Spanish pinchos of bacalao (salt cod) wrapped in roast capsicum, to fresh takes like calamari with aioli and ink ‘crumbs’.

BistRodeHusband and wife Jeremy and Jane Strode run this mod-British diner, and if the noise is anything to go by, it’s clear Bistrode has a following. Earl Carter’s photographs adorn the room, but don’t distract from Jeremy’s carefully constructed dishes. Be bold with pig’s head terrine, though fragile souls might prefer a delicate trout with spiced cauliflower. Save room for Jane’s cult desserts like honey tart with peanut butter ice cream. 478 Bourke St, (02) 9380 7333.

taBle FoR 20Michael Fantuz’s dream of a democratic dining table, free from the structure of menus and individual plates, is clearly shared as seats at this novel restaurant are booked up for months. Open for dinner Wednesday to Saturday, the room holds 40 on two tables, where intimacy is kept alive with large platters to share. For $50, you dine on three set courses of rustic Italian fare, and in keeping with community spirit, 10 per cent of your bill goes to Hope Street Charity. 182 Campbell St, 0416 096 916.

Pizza e BiRRa Families set up for the early shift, and later diners put their name down before settling in for a drink at The Clock down the road. Once on the other side of the smoky glass windows, find crisp, woodfired pizza loaded with toppings such as bresaola and Taleggio. The mezzaluna covers all bases, with prosciutto and tomato on one side, and ricotta and salami calzone on the other. Drinks range from house beer to Italian wines. 1/500 Crown St, (02) 9332 2510.

Nearby, Bird Cow Fish (4-5/500 Crown St, (02) 9380 4090) is known for chef/owner Alex Herbert’s legendary gnocchi, and as a buzzy weekend brekkie spot.

Pizza maRioThis popular pizzeria proudly displays its Vera Pizza Napoletana certification on the wall, a signal of the Naples-style pizzas that emerge from the woodfired oven: a thin base with enjoyably chewy, puffy crusts. Try to the speck and fontina version. Shop 9, 417-421 Bourke St, (02) 9332 3320.

viniThis hole-in-the-wall Italian gem offers a daily-changing menu, which is handwritten on a scrap of paper. Don’t let this put you off though, as the food is terrific. Chefs Andrew Cibej and Daniel Johnston keep it simple with marinated anchovy crostini, or housemade ravioli with chickpeas and lamb ragu. A blackboard of wines includes plenty of Italians by the glass, but their tiny enoteca, housed in a shipping container, isn’t for claustrophobes. 3/118 Devonshire St (enter via Holt St), (02) 9698 5131.

the guide.

aDDiTioNal RepoRTiNg: D

AnIe

lle

OP

PeR

mAn

n &

kYl

Ie W

Alk

eR

Table for 20 offers diners something new. Clockwise from top right: pauline Nguyen  and Mark Jensen at Red lantern; the chic Red lantern interior; Cafe Mint is a Middle eastern fave; their popular Turkish breakfast; Michael Fantuz of Table for 20, upstairs at Sticky lounge.

52  delicious.

world flavoursPart of Surry Hills’ appeal is its range of affordable, global dining options. Spice I Am (90 Wentworth Ave) is regarded as Sydney’s most authentic Thai, and certainly some of its fieriest – the papaya salad will make your head spin. Prasit’s Northside Takeaway (395 Crown St) has good specials such as Balmain bug yellow curry, and unassuming Thai Tha Poh (666 Crown St) does a mean banana flower salad.

Japan is well represented, too. Queue for sumo-sized combos at Sushi Suma (425 Cleveland St), or try Matsuri (614 Crown St) for creative sushi (the grilled salmon and wasabi is a must). Wafu (460 Cleveland St) offers macrobiotic, gluten-free dishes such as brown-rice sushi and interesting salads. Komachi (426 Cleveland St) has steaming bowls of housemade noodles (take the Ramen Challenge if you dare), and newcomer Emon (432 Cleveland St) offers mod Japanese, plus cooking classes.

Cleveland Street is also a hub of authentic subcontinental flavours. At Maya Indian Sweets & Restaurant (468-472 Cleveland St), order a crisp dosa filled with spiced potato, or a thali plate with its rainbow of all-vegie curries. Maya Tandoori upstairs caters to meat-eaters – the smoky-spiced chicken is spot on. Around the corner, head to The Nepalese Kitchen (481 Crown St) for momo dumplings and goat curry.

In the Vietnamese realm, Thanh Long (622 Crown St) does good quail in spicy salt and other classics. New Bay Hung (294 Crown St) comes with good credentials – owner Hong Tran’s family once ran Bay Tinh in Marrickville. Try the beef wrapped in betel leaves with vermicelli squares.

Also in the mix is family-run Malaysian Serai (421 Cleveland St) for flaky roti and beef rendang. Erciyes (409 Cleveland St) does addictive hummus and Turkish pide – but be warned, there’s bellydancing on weekends. At Abdul’s (563 Elizabeth St), grab a platter of felafel, dips and salads for under $10. Il Baretto (496 Bourke St) is known for waiting lists and bargain pastas, including the pappardelle with duck ragu. Mohr Fish (202 Devonshire St) serves good takeaway fish and chips (with top tartare) and generous fish dinners to eat in.

cafescaFe mintDon’t expect typical fare from Hugh Foster, who brings Middle Eastern elements to this all-day BYO diner. Eggs come with chackchouka (tomato, onion and capsicum), while kuneffa (almond ricotta in kataifi pastry with rhubarb and yoghurt) is a great start to the day. Dinner steps up in the glamour stakes with vine-leaf wrapped fish; or pomegranate lamb with Tunisian salad. 579 Crown St, (02) 9319 0848.

lumieReJoin buffed bods and trendy families in this sun-drenched cafe in the heart of the revamped St Margaret’s. The coffee is good and the in-house patisserie turns out pretty little fruit tarts. Try a fluffy chorizo omelette with field mushrooms, and if it’s a nice day, go al fresco and relish the crowd-watching. 13/417 Bourke St, (02) 9331 6184.

the BooK KitchenSit at the communal table, or nab a spot outside, then decide whether to reminisce with boiled eggs and toast soldiers, or be more ‘of the moment’ with Spanish baked eggs. Lunch offers up further conundrums, such as whether to go the Angus steak with fig and beetroot relish, or slow-roast lamb with curry oil. Your last choice should come from the bookshelves,which are loaded with popular foodie titles. 255 Devonshire St, (02) 9310 1003.

At Bills (359 Crown St, (02) 9360 4762), Bill Granger’s corn fritters and scrambled eggs are so popular that breakfast is on till 4pm. For lunch, bite into a chicken club or a virtuous pea, feta and mint salad. Dinner offers more elaborate ensembles such as risotto with chorizo, clams and saffron.

Fifi Foveaux (428 Crown St, (02) 9380 6881) scores points for its ruby-red walls, perspex chandeliers, quirky gnome stools, good cafe staples such as Allpress coffee and exemplary eggs benedict. Nearby, at Cafe Zimt (368 Crown St, (02) 9368 0004), Christian Toesch has created a relaxed Euro-vibe. Start the day Austrian-style with beer bread, boiled eggs and pastrami.

Writers and rag-traders south of Crown Street are spoilt for choice. Wall Cafe (80

Campbell St, (02) 9280 1980) offers simple pide and a cracking Genovese coffee. Two Good Eggs (2/148 Goulburn St, (02) 9283 9694) turns out some fine cafe fare, with much of it – from sausages to cured salmon – made on-site. Toast Cafe (45 Reservoir St, (02) 9280 2615) does a great breakfast bruschetta; while the vego options at Lion Corner Cafe (69 Cooper St, (02) 9699 7378) are top notch, too. For a toastie or an Italian roll with chicken and celeriac coleslaw, cop a spot under the space-age light at Kafa (224 Commonwealth St, (02) 9280 2624).

where to drinkThe Pizza e Birra team continue to bring a sense of Melbourne cool to Sydney, with the opening of Millevini (397 Crown St, (02) 9357 3366), just across the road from the popular pizzeria. Both New and Old World wines are well-represented, and the clever antipasto menu will impress.

Upstairs at Table for 20 (see Where to Eat) is the boudoir-style Sticky Bar, with its sexy black chandelier and gilded chairs, exposed brick walls and blackboard menus listing fine Italian and local drops by the glass, plus a killer Montenegroni cocktail.

In the warm, sandstone-walled basement at Foveaux (see Where to Eat), cocoon yourself in a red banquette then delve into the sophisticated cocktail list. Absinthe features in several choices, such as Ode to Van Gogh with vanilla cinnamon syrup, apple and lime. Once the party’s underway, go for top-shelf tequilas, and a bar menu of tastes from the restaurant.

If you can’t nab a table at Longrain (see Where to Eat), park yourself at the bar. A substantial part of the menu is available and you can groove to the DJ’s chilled-out sounds while sipping a fruity Ping Pong.

Thanks to its working-class roots, Surry Hills seems to have a pub on every corner. Zigzag your way down Crown starting at The Dolphin (412 Crown St), which boasts three levels and a terrace. Continue on to The White Horse (381-385 Crown St), for a winter-defying Summer Seduction (muddled lime with vodka, passionfruit and lychee), then cross over to The Clock (470 Crown St), where the first-floor lounge and balcony are the places to be.

the guide.

delicious.  53

the guide.

Culinary inspiration at The Book Kitchen. Clockwise from top right: order a croissant at lumiere; then nab a table in the St Margaret’s plaza; quirky decor at Fifi Foveaux; chocolate and rhubarb tarts at Bourke St Bakery; queues also form for their crusty loaves. 

54  delicious.

the guide.

A favourite with journos and post-footy crowds, The Shakespeare (200 Devonshire St) is the quintessential Surry Hills pub. TAB-focused by day, at night ‘The Shakey’ becomes a centre for bohemian bonhomie. Another untouched gem, Hotel Hollywood (2 Foster St) is a retro charmer, with a jukebox, booths and charismatic host in the form of ex-actress Doris Goddard. Score a spot by the fire at Cricketers Arms Hotel (106 Fitzroy St), then settle in for a schooner of Coopers, an evening of low-key tunes and animated conversation with arty folk. Also on Fitzroy, many a fledgling musician has courted the crowd at The Hopetoun Hotel (cnr Bourke and Fitzroy), a legendary venue that draws big names, too.

where to shop delis & ButcheRs At Mangiare (479 Crown St, (02) 9699 6156), find Pukara Estate oils and vinegars, dips and pasta. They make a fine coffee, too. If you’d rather brew your own, stock up on freshly ground Sumatran, Mexican, Guatemalan, Ethiopian and even Indian beans at Single Origin Roasters (60-64 Reservoir St, (02) 9211 0665). Plans for an on-site micro-brewery are also underway.

Shop for your next dinner party at sleek Hudson Meats (410 Crown St, (02) 9332 4454). With gourmet snags (perhaps pork, veal and truffle), free-range lamb, wagyu beef, jamon and condiments from Jane Strode’s Kitchen Sync label, you’re bound to be inspired. Nearby, butcher Simply the Best (417 Bourke St, (02) 8021 0159) carries kangaroo, duck, fresh stocks and jus.

BaKeRies For bread and pastries, look no further than Bourke Street Bakery (633 Bourke St, (02) 9699 1011), which is now so famous that tourists stop to have their photo taken as they queue for chocolate raspberry muffins and buttery pork and fennel sausage rolls. At Lumiere Patisserie (See Cafes), grab fab French pastries such as palmiers and lemon tarts with torched caramel crusts. Head to Christopher’s Cakes (409 Bourke St, (02) 9360 4878) for sticky Greek baklava, almond fingers, hefty strudel slices and a nostalgic coconut slice.

indian essentials If you’re bored of standard desserts, then visit Maya Sweets (see World Flavours) for Indian gulab jamun, jalebi and kulfi in a variety of flavours from chocolate to pistachio. For Indian cooking essentials, pop over to Shalimar Movies & Spices (642 Crown St, (02) 9699 6068), where you’ll find curry pastes and powders, chutneys and pickles. Also grab large bags of spices at bargain prices, and don’t forget to check out the latest Bollywood releases.

oRganic suPPlies Healthy U (Shop 10, 421 Bourke St, (02) 9332 0444), a brightly coloured health food shop, is a treasure trove of organic and gluten-free products, vitamins, potions and lotions. Find sauces, flaxseed oils, teas and pasta, plus organic or biodynamic wines, too. For wholesome produce, head to The Goods Organic (346 Crown St, (02) 9331 6811). Bring your own jars to top up on

seeds and nuts and ask about the weekly vegie box delivery. O-Organic Produce (487 Crown St (02) 9319 4009) is good for bread, coffee, muesli and baby food.

where to stayMedina on Crown (359 Crown St, (02) 8302 1000, medinaapartments.com.au) is a firm favourite among home-grown musos, so make like Wolfmother or Missy Higgins and book a sleek one- or two-bedroom apartment smack-bang in the middle of things from $200 per double per night. Most have been refurbished of late, benefiting from smart furniture, luxe bathrooms and fully equipped kitchens. If you’d prefer to channel your inner rock star and not lift a finger, amble down to Bills (see Cafes) and charge the meal back to your room.

A fantastic option if you’re planning on staying in Sydney for at least a week is to book a chic holiday rental. Sydney Links (sydneylinks.net) has two three-bedroom stunners in the St Margaret’s complex. One apartment enjoys Harbour Bridge and Opera House views, and both have access to the 25-metre pool, gym and sauna on site. On Crown, a three-bedroom penthouse with entertaining terrace and spa, will impress. Rent starts at $350 per night (all sleep six, minimum one-week stay).

Another top pick is The Apartment Service (apartmentservice.com.au). Choose from a sleek, centrally located New York-style loft, from $800 per week; or a two-bedroom, two-bathroom townhouse from $1300 per week (the minimum stay). d.

Stock up on organic goods at Healthy U. From far left: salamis  at Simply the Best; fresh produce and deli supplies at Hudson Meats.