The history, processing, and flavor of tea

Yingbin Zhang

Tea Research Institute,China Academy of Agricultural Sciences

Mobile：(86)13777406720 E-mail: yanying7217@sina.com

What is tea？• One of the world's three largest non-alcoholic beverages.

• Tea differentiates out from Camellia Theaceae genera.

• It is widely cultivated in South Korea, Japan, India, Sri Lanka, Kenya, and

other countries and regions.

• Usually 3 years after seedlings, tea leaves can be plunked.

In 1753, plant taxonomists Lin Nai named tea "Thea sinensis“.

Its scientific name is Camellia Sinensis (L.) 0.Kuntze.

• China's southwest region: Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan Province.

• The earliest areas where discover, use and cultivate tea in the world .

• And also the most concentrated place where wild tea and largest tea has

been discovered.

Origin of tea

In China's Yunnan, Guizhou and Sichuan provinces a large number of wild tea

trees have been found. The age of these tea trees are range fromas 800 to 1,700

years. Some of them are pure wild plant, others are cultivated plant.

4

The form of tea tree

Can be divided into shrubs, small trees and trees .Perennial, evergreen.It can live for hundreds years, but the life for economic is 50-60 years.

荼：First appeared in the "Book of Songs" (《诗

经》)，but it also means vegetables.

茶：“茶”is stipulate by Emperor Xunzong since

Tang Dynasty.

Tea characters in Chinese

In history books, a lot of Chinese characters means tea, including：茶、荼、

苦荼、槚、（木荼）、椵、葭、葭萌、荈、蔎、诧、詑、茗、选游、游冬、

皋芦、瓜芦、过罗、物罗、艼、苦艼、（艹登）、（苦艹）登、茗菜、苦

茶、蜡（或腊）、巴饨,etc。

Pronunciation of tea

The pronunciation of tea in the world is influenced by China directly or

indirectly. The pronunciation can be divided into two types：

Tea spread through the sea from southeast China to Western Europe. Its

pronunciation is TE and Ti, which is similar in coastal areas of Fujian and

other coastal areas of China. Such as the United Kingdom, the United States

for tea, France for the The, Holland for the Thee, Germany for the Tee,

Spain, Italy, Sweden, Denmark, Norway, Czech for Te.

Pronunciation of tea

Tea speared through land to the north and west countries pronounced cha,

which is similar to Guangdong and North China.

For example, Japan is Cha, Mongolia is Chai, Russia is Chai, North India

is Cha, is Chay, Turkey is chah.

History of tea planting

• China is the earliest country in the world which discover and utilize tea.

The history is about 5,000 years.

• Artificial cultivation of tea trees in China is more than 3000 years.

• Tea seeds were brought to Japan and Korean in Tang dynasty, about 600-

800 AD.

The spread of tea

Tea made by China is exported to all over the world by land and sea.

(1) First arrived in Japan and South Korea.

(2) Then spread to India and central Asia.

(3) Spread to Arabia in Ming and Qing Dynasties.

(4) Exported to many European countries in the early seventeenth Century.

Many nobles and gentlemen have formed the habit of drinking tea.

4 stages of tea drinking history of Chinese people's ancestors :

Eat raw leaves as medicine.

Eat cooked leaves as food .

Drink boiled tea as beverage.

Drink brewed tea as beverage.

The history of Chinese tea drinking

The development of tea drinking has a close relationship with

the tea culture, processing and tea set manufacturing.

Lu Yu, devoted his life to the study of tea, tea, was famous for brewing and

tasting tea.

In 780 AD, he completed the world's first monograph "The book of tea“.

This book established the earliest traditional tea science, and also greatly

promoted the development of tea industry.

The book of tea （《茶经》）

In Tang and Song Dynasty, most of the teas are streamed green tea.

In 1,391 AD, Zhu Yuanzhang, the first emperor of Ming Dynasty issued an

order to abolish the compressed tea.

Instead, loose tea was greatly developed, especially pan fired green tea.

At the same time, scented tea, black tea and dark tea were created by Chinese

farmers.

Development of tea processing in Ming Dynasty

Brewing method in Ming Dynasty

• Loose tea brewing was being popular from Ming Dynasty.

• Tea sets also changed. People started to use Zisha teapot and tea bowl with a fitted cover.

明 供春款木瘿式紫砂壶

明 时大彬款紫砂壶

In early Qing Dynasty, there were a lot of tea markets in China. The export of

tea was greatly developed. Chinese tea was exported to Europe, Middle East,

Russia and other places from the sea and land.

Some of the tea factories were set up, and still very famous till now.

Tea export shipment in Guangzhou in 19th century.

Tea trading in the past 200 years

In the early 1820s, the British East India

Company began large-scale production of tea in Assam.

In 1837, the first English tea garden was established

at Chabua in Upper Assam.

In 1840, the Assam Tea Company began the

commercial production of tea in the region.

Tea in Indian

In 1841, Arthur Campbell brought Chinese tea seeds to Indian ,and planted tea

in Darjeeling. The tea garden was opened in 1856 and Darjeeling tea began to be

produced.

By the late 1880s, almost all the coffee plantations in Ceylon had

been converted to tea.

Tea processing technology rapidly developed in the 1880s.

The manufacture of the first tea rolling machine by John Walker &

Co in 1880—essential technologies that made realizing commercial tea

production a reality.

Tea in Sri Lanka

Tea is generally divided into categories based on how it is processed.

At least six different types are produced:

White tea: Heavily wilted and lightly oxidized

Yellow tea : Lightly wilted and lightly oxidized

Green tea : Lightly wilted and lightly oxidized

Oolong tea : Heavily wilted, bruised, and partially oxidized

Tea classification

Black tea: Heavily wilted, sometimes crushed, and fully oxidized (called 'red tea'紅茶 hóngchá in Chinese)

Post-fermented tea (dark tea): Green tea that has been allowed toferment/compost ('black tea' 黑茶 hēichá for the Chinese)

Scented tea: Spread with flowers while processing, then shake the flowers out,but occasionally some are left in the tea as a decoration. Jasmine is most commonlyused to flavor green teas to produce jasmine tea.

Tea classification

Green tea is the major tea in China. The basic process includes: lightly wilting, de-

enzyming, rolling (shaped),and drying.

De-enzyming is the key technology in green tea processing. Its main purpose is

using high-temperature to passivate polyphenol oxidization activity and prevent the

oxidation of tea polyphenols.

Since that the green can be green leaves and green liquid color.

Due to different processing technology, green tea can be divided into steamed

green tea, sun-dried green tea, pan-dried green tea, and baked green tea with different

flavors.

Tea classification: green tea

Classification by Orgin area Most famous Flavor

Steamed De-enzyming Japan,

Korea

and around China

Sencha,

Gyokuro,

恩施玉露

Green: Tea, liquid color, and brewed leaves

Aroma: special flavor of steamed green tea,

seaweed

Favor：fresh and umami.

Sun-dried Drying way Yunnan, China Perth raw tea Appearance: yellow greenish, yellow brownish:

Liquid color :yellow and bright

Aroma：high, has special flavor shined by sun

Taste：strong or mellow

Brewed leaves: soft

Tea classification: green tea

Classification by Orgin area Most famous Flavor

Pan-dried De-enzyming Around

China

Westlake green tea

西湖龙井

Appearance: tight, and curly, dark green

Liquid color: green and bright

Aroma：high

Taste：mellow and brisk

Brewed leaves: soft and green

Baked Drying way Around

China

Huangshan Maofeng

黄山毛峰

Appearance: Approach tight, and curly, jade

green

Liquid color: light green and bright

Aroma：fresh and high

Taste：fresh and mellow

Brewed leaves: soft and green

Tea classification: green tea

Appearance Tea name

Flat 龙井茶 老竹大方

Curly 碧螺春、径山茶、惠明茶、都匀毛尖、蒙顶甘露、高桥银峰、无锡毫茶

Flower or swallow tail 安吉白茶、黄山毛峰、汀溪兰香、紫笋茶、望海茶

Needle 绿剑茶、开化龙顶（针）、武阳春雨、湄潭翠芽

Melon seeds 六安瓜片

Orchid 太平猴魁（二叶抱一芽）

Cashew nut 羊岩勾青、涌溪火青

Pine needle 南京雨花茶 、安化松针、恩施玉露

Appearance of green tea

Includes 3 origin regions:

• Westlake area: around Westlake

• Qiantang area: other areas in Hangzhou

• Yuezhou area: in Shaoxing

• Westlake area: be divided into primary

and secondary protection area

Longjing tea

•Appearance: flat, smooth, straight like a sward with tender green

•Liquid color: tender green and bright

•Aroma：high with strong fragrance

•Taste：sweet and mellow

•Brewed leaves: soft, even and green

Flavor of Westlake Longjing tea

Flavor of Dongting Biluochun tea

Biluochun (Chinese: 碧螺春) is a famous green tea originally grown in

the Dongting mountain region near Lake Tai, Jiangsu, China.

Also known as Pi Lo Chun, it is renowned for its delicate

appearance(slender and coiled), fruity taste, floral aroma, showy white pekoe.

Anji bai cha (Chinese: 安吉白茶) or Anji white tea is a green tea

produced in Anji County, Zhejiang Province, China.

This tea cultivar was discovered in 1982, is not as widely planted as other

teas and has a short harvesting period; in the past it is a comparatively rare tea.

It is called "white" tea although it is a green tea. The long, narrow leaves

are yellow in color.

Research found that the tea plant has low chlorophyll and poly-phenol

content (which explains the whitish-green tea leaves) but is very rich in amino

acids. It has almost twice the amount comparing to other green teas.

Flavor of Anji white tea

Flavor of Macha

The raw martial of Macha is high grade steamed green tea in Japan.

Matcha (抹茶) is finely ground powder of specially grown and processed green tea. It is

special in two aspects of farming and processing: The green tea plants for matcha are shade-grown

for a period of time, and the stems and veins are removed in processing.

Oolong tea is made of leaves with a certain maturity. The basic process includes:

heavily wilting, leaves shaking(for several times), de-enzyming, shaping(rolling or ball

rolling),and drying. Sometimes oolong would be baking for several times after first drying.

Oolong tea is Semi fermented tea.

Oolong tea is produced in Fujian, Guangdong and Taiwan.

The flavor of Oolong tea is determined by its special varieties, plunking standards and

processing technology.

Tea classification: oolong tea

Different varieties of oolong are processed differently, the leaves are usually

formed into one of two distinct styles:

(1)Some are rolled into long curly leaves.

(2)Some are wrap-curled into small beads, sometimes with a tail，which

depends on the rolling degree.

The manufacture of oolong tea is intricate, leaves shaking is repeated many

times. The last step, baking or roasting, is exclusive to oolong tea and is referred to as

the real art in making this tea.

Tea classification: oolong tea

Classification Area Tea

South Fujian 安溪、永春、漳平 安溪铁观音、毛蟹、黄金桂、漳平水仙、永春佛手

North Fujian 武夷山、建瓯、建阳 大红袍、肉桂、水仙

Guangdong 潮安、饶平 凤凰水仙、白叶单枞

Taiwan 台北、桃园、新竹、

南投、宜兰文山包种、台湾高山茶、东方美人

Most oolong teas, especially those of fine quality, are made of unique cultivated varieties .

The degree of oxidation can range from 8 to 85%, depending on the variety and production

style. Oolong is especially popular in south China and Southeast Asia.

Different styles of oolong tea can vary widely in flavor. They can be sweet and fruity with

honey aromas, or woody and thick with roasted aromas, or green and fresh with bouquet

aromas, all depending on the horticulture and style of production.

The origin area, classification, and flavor of oolong tea

Name Flavor Appearance

铁观音（福建安溪）

Aroma: fresh, high, with delicate fragrance(like

orchid)

Taste: fresh, mellow and sweet

漳平水仙（福建漳平）

Aroma: fresh, high, with delicate fragrance(like

orchid)

Taste: fresh, mellow and brisk

永春佛手（福建永春）

Aroma: high and strong, sometimes like pearTaste: sweet and mellow

黄金桂（福建安溪）

Aroma: fragrance(like peach or osmanthus)Taste: approach strong and brisk

毛蟹（福建安溪）

Aroma: strongTaste: approachstrong

Oolong tea in south Fujian

Oolong tea in north Fujian

Most of tea in north Fujian are made around Wuyi mountain.

Some of the better known teas are:

大红袍：Da Hong Pao (“Big Red Robe” ): a highly prized tea with osmanthus flavor

水金龟：Shui Jin Gui ("Golden Water Turtle"): mellow and smooth taste

铁罗汉：Tieluohan ("Iron Arhat"): body taste

白鸡冠：Bai Jiguan ("White Cockscomb"): with light, yellowish leaves.

肉桂：Rougui ("Cassia"): with a spicy aroma.

水仙：Shui Xian ("Narcissus"): special mellow and smooth taste

Dancong（单枞）are stripe-style oolong teas made in Guangdong Province.

Dancong teas are noted for their ability to naturally imitate the flavors and fragrances of

various flowers and fruits, such as orange blossom, orchid, grapefruit, almond, ginger

flower, etc.

The name dan cong originally meant one kind of phoenix teas all picked from one

tree. In recent times though it has become a generic term for all Phoenix Mountain

oolongs.

Oolong tea in Guangdong

The cultivation of tea in Taiwan began in the 18th century. Since then, many of the

teas which are grown in Fujian province have also been grown in Taiwan.Since the 1970s,

the tea industry in Taiwan has expanded at a rapid rate.

As the weather in Taiwan is highly variable, tea quality may differ from season to

season. The different weather patterns, temperatures, altitudes, and soil ultimately result

differences in appearance, aroma, and flavor. In some mountainous areas, teas have been

cultivated at ever higher elevations to produce a unique sweet taste.

Oolong tea in Taiwan

Classification Tea Flavor Appearance

Baozhong tea 文山包种

Lightly oxidized oolong tea with green color

Liquid color: light golden

Aroma: fresh with fragrance

Taste: sweet and mellow

High mountain tea

梨山茶、冻顶乌龙、大禹岭等

Semi-oxidized oolong with green or brown color

Liquid color: golden

Aroma: fresh with fragrance or toasted

Taste: sweet and mellow

Bai HauOolong

白毫乌龙

(东方美人、

椪风茶)

Heavily oxidized oolong tea

Liquid color: orange red

Aroma: ripe fruit and honey

Taste: sweet and mellow

Oolong tea in Taiwan

Black tea is fully fermented tea. The basic process includes: heavily wilting, rolling(destroying cell wall

and shaping) or CTC( Crush, tear, and curl),fermentation and drying.

Black tea should be black appearance, red liquid color, and red brewed leaves.

The buds in appearance are golden color, while the rest of the leaves are black, and sometimes with a

shiny color.

Fermentation is the key technology in black tea processing.

Black tea is mainly divided into three kinds: Souchong black tea, Kongfu black

Tea, and broken black tea.

Tea classification: black tea

Classification Area tea Flavor Appearance

Souchongblack tea

Wuyi Mouatian

LapsangSouchong、

smoky Souchong

Lapsang Souchong:

Appearance: tight, even, black

Aroma: pine wood smoky, longan

Taste: sweet and mellow

Kongfu black tea

Anhui，Fujian,Yunnan, etc

KeemunBlack Tea(祁红工夫)、滇红工夫等

Appearance: tight, even, black

Aroma: high and sweet, lasting

fragrance

Taste: sweet and mellow

Broken black tea

China:Yunnan,

Hainan；India ,

Sri Lanka,

Kenya

India: Darjeeling、Assam、Ilam；

Sri Lanka :Uva，

Appearance: broken

Aroma: high,fresh and sweet

Taste: very strong and brisk

The origin area, classification, and flavor of black tea

Broken black tea

Leave：tight and straight with tender stems。F.O.P，O.P，P（F：flower，O：orange：

P：pekoe）

Broken：even and heavy like coarse sand with black or brown color 。F.B.O.P，B.O.P，

B.P

Fanning: F.B.O.P.F，B.O.P.F，P.F，O.F，F

Dust：black or brown。 D（DUST）

White tea is lightly fermented tea made in Fujian, China.

The processing of white tea includes withering and drying. In the weather with low

temperature and high humidity, withered leaves can be drying while the moisture

content between 30-35%.

White tea includes silver needle pekoe, white peony, Shoumei, and Gong mei.

White tea should be light liquid color, and fresh aroma.

Tea classification: white tea

Name Flavor Appearance

白毫银针Silver needle

pekoe

Processed by fat buds covered with white pekoe.

Aroma: fresh, fragrance and honey, pekoe

Taste: sweet and mellow

白牡丹White peony

Processed by one bud and two leaves raw material Appearance: like flowerAroma: fresh, sweetTaste: sweet and mellow

寿眉Shou mei

Processed by one bud and two leaves raw material,

usually thin, sometimes without buds.

Aroma: sweet

Taste: mellow

贡眉Gong mei

Processed by one bud and two leaves raw material,

usually thin

Aroma: sweet

Taste: mellow

The origin area, classification, and flavor of black tea

Yellow tea is lightly fermented tea. The processing of yellow tea includes

lightly withering, de-enzyming, rolling(shaping), sweltering, and drying.

Sweltering also imparts a mellower and less grassy taste than that usually be

found in green teas.

Yellow tea should be yellow liquid color, and leaves.

According to the tenderness, Chinese yellow tea can be divided into yellow

bud tea, small yellow tea and big yellow tea .

Tea classification: yellow tea

Dark tea is post-fermented tea.

Processing includes lightly withering, de-enzyming, rolling(shaping), wet-piling, and drying.

Wet-piling is unique process of dark tea manufacturing , and also the key technology in

dark tea making to form the good flavor .

Depending on the special processing, the dark tea usually be mellow with light astringent,

the liquid color is golden without greenish, and the brewed leaves are yellow brownish.

According to tea producing areas and processes, dark tea can be divided into: Hunan dark

tea, Hubei old green tea, Sichuan Brick Tea and Yunnan&Guangxi tea (Puer tea, Liubao tea).

Tea classification: dark tea

Name Flavor Appearance

千两茶Qianliang tea

Each one content 1,000两 in old Chinese scale.

Aroma: sometimes with pine woody smoky

Taste: mellow

Tianjian天尖

Appearance: tight and black.

Aroma: with pine woody smoky

Taste: mellow and body

Fu brisk 茯砖

Appearance: a lot of stems, black brownish.

Aroma: normal, woody, coarse

Taste: mellow, coarse

Black briskHua brisk

黑砖、花砖

Dark tea in Hunan

• Pu'er tea is made by sun-dried green tea in Yunnan. The varieties are usually big leaf

species.

• The processing is divided into 2 kinds: without artificial fermentation and artificial

fermentation.

• The shape is also divided into 2 kinds: loose tea and compressed tea.

• After the processing ,tea is still naturally aging, and the flavor can be better.

The flavor of Puer tea

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