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The idiots guide to wiring a 3s-gte into an AW11

By reading this guide you are accepting you have also read the disclaimer at the end of the document.

Hi chaps! Right here goes, hopefully this write-up will make it almost impossible to get the wiring wrong….well that’s the plan anyway but the usual disclaimer bollocks applies…oh and please excuse the patronising explanations. “the information I’m giving is correct for the current vehicle it applies to and its donor engine, although this write up should cover all rev1 and 2 3s-gte’s and all mk1 mr2’s it still has to be said that I cannot be held responsible for any differences in either Aw11 harness or 3s-gte,the upshot is use the guide as an eye opener and a point in the right direction but please take time to study your cars N1 connector and also the engine harness plugs on your swap.. Blah, blah, blah……” Preparation Here are the tools you are going to need….

A multi-meter for checking wire continuity from A to B. Scissors for cutting the heat shrink sleeve and tape. Heat Shrink Sleeve, perfect stuff for professionally insulating all connections. Cutters, for…er…cutting wires! A lighter for shrinking the sleeves. Insulating tape. Wire strippers.

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A gas soldering torch and solder….an electric soldering iron will do all of the small wires but there’s no way it will solder the main M2 power feeds, these gas soldering irons are the best tool for the job. A folder full of 3s-gte and N1 diagrams, I will include the relevant ones you need in this article for you to print off and study. Anal Translator This bit is to explain the colour or term abbreviations I might use during the article. Any reference to a specific wire will be coloured and coded as shown. Any reference made to an engine component colour (eg. A plug) will be in bold and not colour coded.

Bk-black Wh-white Re-red Bl-blue Br-brown Ye-yellow Gr-green Gy-grey Pu-purple Pk-pink

COR - Circuit Opening Relay T-VSV - Turbo Vacuum Switching Valve T-VIS - Toyota Variable Induction System

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Starter circuit How it works The starter motor on the 3s-gte has two terminals on it, the thick main starter post that carries current from the battery to the starter motor for cranking and the starter solenoid terminal. The main post is a permanent battery live, and the solenoid only becomes live when we turn the ignition key to crank. It does this via the starter relay located in the mk1’s engine bay fuse box. The output live from the relay is a thick Bk/Wh wire that’s on the M2 connector in the engine bay.

Here you can see the main starter post with the thick Re battery cable going to it (blue circle), and to the right of that the brown solenoid connector that’s part of the mk2 engine harness (red circle).The starter signal also gets fed to the circuit opening relay to switch that open and also to an ECU pin to inform the ECU that cranking is taking place.

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Connections to be made

Above you can see the cars M2 connector; we have already cut off 6 inches of wire from the engine side of this plug for making our connections onto. You can see the Bk/Wh wire (blue arrow) that comes from the mk1 starter relay lying beside the Bl wire. This Bk/Wh wire must be joined onto the wire going to the brown solenoid connector…..

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This is the Bk/Wh starter solenoid wire getting joined onto the M2. A length of wire is soldered onto the starter solenoid wire and onto the m2 (red circles).The mk2 engine harness exits into the boot of the mk1 and its here that the starter energiser wire appears as well, this is normally where the mk2 starter relay would be plugged in but we can use this connector to wire the starter solenoid wire onto the COR and also onto an ECU pin, more on that in a bit.

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The blue circled plug on the right with 4 terminals has the Bk/Wh starter solenoid wire in it. So, to recap, main live cable from battery positive goes to the starter main post and the Bk/Wh wire in the M2 connector gets joined onto the wire already feeding the starter solenoid, easy. For now that’s the starter circuit done, other connections made to this Bk/Wh solenoid wire in the boot will be covered in COR wiring and ECU wiring.

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The 3rd ECU plug A

For working out the ECU pin numbers I’ve included this pic…..the wh and Re wire on the far top right is pin A1 then going left A2,A3 etc and at the far left of the top row there are two Re wires you can see, these are A10 and A11… A11 is the wire we are using this time for the starter signal. Then pin A12 is far right again directly underneath pin A1 and reading left again along the bottom row is A13, A14 etc. You will need to refer back to this pic when any mention of connections to ECU plug A is made.

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The N1 connector pin outs This diagram shows both sides of the N1, it can be a little confusing knowing what pin you are looking at but the right hand plug is the body side of the plug and the left hand side is the engine harness side of the plug, this is looking at the inside of the plug when you pull it apart and not from the back of the plug where the wires exit. For clarity you can use the right hand side diagram and pretend this is the back of the engine side plug where the wires exit for your joins, I find it easier to reference them that way.

I have only included the N1 wires that we use, the rest are redundant. Refer back to these diagrams when making any N1 connections. Sometimes pin 21 ground is Wh/Bk depending on revision.

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Circuit Opening Relay (COR) How it works The COR is nothing more than a switching relay, its job is to supply a live feed to the fuel pump on cranking (it actually feeds it permanently once cranking has occurred) .It also acts as a junction point for two ECU live feeds and also feeds the T-VSV, T-VIS VSV and a few other things that aren’t relevant now. Note it doesn’t switch power to these components, merely a place for them to pick up power from when the ignition is turned on. The COR is supplied with power from the mk1’s EFI relay located in the fuse box. The COR is also connected to the ECU on one of its wires onto a terminal marked FC, this stands for fuel cut….so the ECU closes the COR when an over boost situation occurs therefore cutting power to the fuel pump. Essentially the COR is just a fuel pump relay. The mk2T actually has a COR and a fuel pump relay but the pump relays function on the mk2 is to supply either a high or low voltage power feed to the pump based on whether the engines idling or accelerating. We wont be using the mk2T fuel pump relay, the COR will do everything we need. Connections to be made The mk1 COR has five terminals the same as the mk2 COR, so you can use either COR but the mk2 COR is plugged into the mk2 fuse box so if you want to use its connector you will need to chop that out of the mk2 fuse box. Alternatively you can just use the mk1 COR and its connector, but two of the wire colours are different from the mk2 COR wires, which can confuse things. I opted to use the mk1 COR and its plug but I changed the two odd wires into the correct mk2 colours.

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This is the mk1 COR and its five wires, there are two wires going to pins 1 and 2 as you can see, chop one of each pair off so you just have one wire per terminal. Also wires 2 and 3 need changing to mk2 COR colours to prevent confusion.

Here you can see I’ve changed wire 3 to Re and wire 2 to Bk/Ye. From now on I will refer to them in these mk2 colours as the rest of the harness is mk2 and the circuit diagrams all refer to these colours. Next job is to mount the COR on a bracket next to the ECU, that way you can get the lengths of wire coming from it and onto the N1 perfect.

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First connection is onto the Wh/Bk wire, this is the COR’s earth…simply extend the wire (use same colour wires for extensions) and crimp an earth ring terminal onto it, this ring can be bolted onto one of the many bolts on the rear firewall.

That’s the COR earth done.

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This is the second connection to the COR, it’s the Re starter signal wire that gets connected to the Bk/Wh wire on the four pin plug in the boot and also onto ECU pin A11.Wire A above is the wire coming from pin A11 on the ECU, wire B is the Re coming from the COR and wire C is joined to both of these and onto the Bk/Wh wire on that plug. This provides a cranking signal to both ECU and COR. The 3rd wire to get connected on the COR is the Gr/Re wire.

NOTE - There is a rev1/rev2 difference in the wiring to the ECU from the COR. Rev1 Gr/Re COR wire goes to ECU B17 and Rev2 Gr/Re COR wire goes to ECU A14.

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Here is the Gr/Re COR wire being connected to pin A14 on this Rev2 car.

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The 4th COR wire is the Bl fuel pump wire….this goes to pin 18 on the N1 connector which is also a Bl wire.

Circled blue is N1 pin18 fuel pump wire, this runs directly to the fuel pump. Circled red is the COR fuel pump supply, join these together.

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The 5th and last COR wire is the Bk/Ye wire. This is the most complicated of all the COR wires as it gets joined to a few places. It needs to be joined to these locations…. To both pins A12 and A13 on the ECU plug, both of these wires are also Bk/Ye.

You can see both Bk/Ye A12 and A13 wires above circled blue, join these to the COR Bk/Ye circled red but do not solder yet as there are more connections to be made here.

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The next wire to join onto this point is a Bk/Ye wire that’s on the smaller white plug in the engine bay….

There are two Bk/Ye wires on this white plug, one of them is for the alternator (circled red) and the other is a power feed for the T-VIS VSV and T-VSV (circled blue) ,its this circled Bl wire that needs connecting onto our other Bk/Ye wires in the boot. To find out which wire is which do a continuity check from the alternator onto both these wires, only one will show a connection, so use the other one which will be guaranteed to be the T-VIS,T-VSV wire. Extend it into the boot using more Bk/Ye wire and join it onto the other Bk/Ye connections we have just made. Its vital that you don’t get these two Bk/Ye wires mixed up so take time to find out which one is the T-VIS VSV feed, it should be the one circled blue above.

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Here is the T-VIS VSV Bk/Ye wire (beside blue line) extended through into the boot and joined onto the other Bk/Ye wires already mentioned (circled red). There is one last wire to join onto this point and it’s from pin 7 on the N1 connector. Pin 7 N1 is the EFI relay output wire and it’s Bk with Br dots every inch. Be aware that there are other wires on the N1 that are also Bk with Br dots (cheers Toyota!) but only pin7 on the N1 must be joined onto all of our other Bk/Ye wires.

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Here is Pin7 N1 Bk/Br dots (blue arrow) joined onto all of our other Bk/Ye wires (circled red)….so to recap…one Bk/Ye comes from the COR, pins A12 and A13 Bk/Ye’s, the Bk/Ye on the small white plug in the engine bay (for T-VIS VSV and T-VSV) and pin7 N1 Efi relay output Bk/Br dots all get joined together, an important wire that’s easy to get wrong you will agree. So that’s the big scary COR wired up, nowt to it!

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Charging circuit How it works The alternator has two connections, a 3 pin multi-plug and a large power output wire which is Wh, all of the thick Wh wires in the Toyota harness are main power feeds to battery or alternator or fuse box. The 3 pin multi-plug contains these wires… Wh/Re - alternator power supply Bk/Ye - alternator power supply Ye - alternator sensing wire (for dash battery light) All three wires should have power going to them with ignition switched on, the Ye wire runs to the battery light in the dash (or at least it will do when connected) and the bulb has power fed to it from another source, when the alternator isn’t spinning this Ye wire gets earthed through it so power to the dash bulb and an earth at the alternator puts the battery light on. Now when you start the engine and the alternator starts to charge it throws 13.5v back up this Ye wire and two lives at a bulb put it out….all you really need to know is that all 3 wires need to show battery voltage when its all connected up. The main thick Wh power cable delivers charge back to the battery. Connections to be made The mk2T standard alternator location is buried under the inlet manifold on a horrible big heavy cast iron bracket that weighs more than the titanic, so we bin it and relocate the alternator to the more user friendly Celica location on top of the engine. So you need to extend the 3 wire harness and thick Wh power wire from their position under the manifold to the Celica position. It’s a simple matter of finding a metre or so of each colour wire, cut the multi-plug off and extend each of the wires…

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The alternator wires at the mk2T location.

Here are the two lengths of harness extended so that they will run over the cam cover and around onto the alternator, spend time insulating, especially on the thick Wh power feed, as you can see I’ve used split wrap on my extensions just like Toyota do.

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As for wiring the alternator up onto the cars body harness, all three of the multi-plug wires are joined onto the N1 connector. The 3 multi-plug wires appear on the mk2T harness on the white plugs in the engine bay.

Pictured above the Ye alternator wire (circled blue) and the Wh/Re alternator wire (circled red) are found in the larger white plug in the engine bay. The Bk/Ye alternator wire (circled green) is on the smaller white plug (we already know this after wiring up the COR Bk/Ye). All three wires need cutting off the plugs and extending through into the boot for connection onto the N1. There are quite a few wires to connect from these white plugs and extended into the boot so it pays to keep them all running as one harness and all the same length.

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Here are all three wires extended into the boot (arrowed green) and the first connection made is onto N1 pin13 Wh/Re AM2 wire, this is joined onto our Wh/Re alternator wire (circled red).

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The next wire is our Bk/Ye alternator wire and this gets joined onto N1 pin 8 Bk/Ye (circled red).

The last alternator multi-plug wire to be connected is the Ye wire and this goes onto N1 pin 17 charge fuse and is also Ye. That’s the alternator multi-plug completed.

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The main charge wire (two thick Wh) from the alternator appear in the engine bay next to the white plugs…you need to cut the double ring terminal off these two wires (circled red).That’s because they are already joined together at the alternator and we are splitting the duties of these two wires.

Here they are with the end removed and bared back. One of these is going to our starter motor main terminal (to feed the battery with charge) and the other is going to be joined onto two wires on the M2 connector.

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Here are the thick Wh and thick Bk wires on the mk1’s M2 connector; first job is to twist these two wires together. They provide power for the rest of the car, power up its fuse box and every other electrical system on the car.

Joined together and ready for soldering onto either of the thick Wh cables on the mk2 harness. A gas soldering iron is essential for this. It’s also extra vital that these connections are insulated and then insulated again…did I mention they need insulating? Insulate them.

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Here they are joined and insulated, the other thick Wh now needs extending onto the main starter motor post where the thick Re battery cable goes.

Here are all charging connections made, the M2 connections have been shrouded with split wrap and all wiring cable tied neatly. Shortly after this shot the Wh going to the starter was also split wrapped. That’s the charging circuit complete. The injectors and spark How it works The injectors are fed with constant power from the injector resistor pack, that’s the silver finned box on the mk2’s rear bulkhead with 5 wires going to it, the other silver finned box is the fuel pump resistor on the mk2 and can be binned, and we won’t be using it. The injectors’ earths are then linked individually to the ECU so that it can switch them on and off to supply more or less fuel, they pulse many times per second, the percentage of time they spend open is called the injector duty rate. All we need to worry about is powering up the injector resistor pack and the ECU takes care of the rest. As far as the spark is concerned that too is all taken car of onboard the engine harness, all we need to do for that is power up the coil and amplifier pack. Connections to be made The injector resistor pack has a Bk/Re wire going to it; this wire appears again on the small white plug in the engine bay….

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The injector resistor feed Bk/Re is one of these four Bk/Re wires (circled red)….the other 3 Bk/Re wires are power feeds for the coil and for the amplifier. This is the easy bit, cut all four wires away from this plug and wrap them all together.

Here are all four Bk/Re wires chopped from the white plug and joined together, I’ve then joined them all onto a thick Bk/Re extension wire so I can run them all into the boot for connection onto the N1.

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Here is the injector and ignition feed extended wire in the boot and its getting joined onto N1 pin 12 Engine main relay Bk/Re wire. This one connection takes care of spark and fuelling in one go.

The next wire we need to do is the permanent power feed for the ECU, again one wire….it’s on ECU pin A1 (circled blue) and we join this onto any permanent battery live, in this case I’m using the Wh/Re wire that goes to the alternator (circled red) but any permanent live feed will do.

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Wiring to the clocks The final part! First wire we connect is for the engine management light. This wire is on ECU pin A5 and is Gr/Wh. It should be noted that pin A4 is also Gr/Wh but that’s for stop light signal to ECU that’s not needed, just be sure you use A5 Gr/Wh. This goes to N1 pin 1 which is also Gr/Wh.

Here is the check engine wire A5 (circled blue) getting joined onto N1 pin 1 Gr/Wh(circled red),note the stop signal Gr/Wh on A4 (circled green),it would be an easy mistake to use that one instead.

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The oil pressure wire is next, this is a Ye/Bk wire found in the large white plug in the engine bay…

The Ye/Bk for oil pressure gauge is in here, locate it and do a continuity test between here and the sender unit on the head. Then snip it at this white plug and extend it into the boot for joining onto the N1.

Here is the Ye/Bk oil pressure wire joined onto N1 pin 2 Ye/Bk.

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Next up is water temp, that’s a Ye/Gr wire, also found on the white plug in the engine bay….this too is cut off the plug exactly like the oil pressure wire and is joined onto N1 pin 6 Ye/Gr. Next is the tacho signal wire… this again is located on the white plug in the engine bay, once again extend it into the boot and join it onto N1 pin 15 B wire. There are a few Bl wires at the white plug so to locate which one is tacho find the plug that goes onto the amplifier under the coil, you will notice there’s a Bl wire on that multi-plug…do a continuity test between this wire on the amp and the Bls on the white plug until you have found it.

Here is the tacho B wire extended into the boot and being joined onto N1 pin 15.

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Next connection is the speed sensor signal wire…the ECU needs a speed signal and this is produced by a reed in the back of the tacho on the clocks and a Pu/Wh wire sends this signal to the ECU. It appears at the N1 at pin 10…and gets joined onto the Pu/Wh wire at ECU pin A9.

Here is the join for the speed sensor wire at N1 pin10 from ECU pin A9.

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The final two wires! The reverse light switch, there’s a plug on top of the gearbox, remove it and cut off 6 inches of its wire from the mk2 harness….

Then remove the gearbox plug on the car side….

Remove both plugs with 6 inches of wire on each and solder the two wires together, doesn’t matter which order….

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This is what you are left with, a plug on each end, one end fits onto the gearbox, and the other fits the plug on the chassis, job done.

End result, showing the finished taped up wiring. That’s as easy as I can possibly make the wiring lads, but as always if something still isn’t clear just ask on the forum, PW.

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DISCLAIMER. This file was downloaded from http://twobrutal.co.uk and may not be altered in any way whatsoever without prior notification and permission given solely by the author. Neither the author nor the file host accept any responsibility whatsoever should damage or injuries occur to persons or property using information contained in this guide. For insurance purposes persons carrying out any modifications to a motor vehicle in the UK are required by law to divulge such modification details to their vehicle insurers and the DVLA.