Copyright©2015byEllenJackson
Allrightsreserved.Noportionofthisbookmaybereproducedorutilizedinanyform,orbyanyelectronic,mechanical,orothermeans,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.
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v3.1
contentsCover
TitlePage
Copyright
Dedication
RecipeList
Introduction
ALemonPrimer
breakfasts
salads
sides
vegetarian
seafood,meat,andpoultry
sweets
drinks
staplesAcknowledgments
Index
ConversionChart
AbouttheAuthor
recipelist
Breakfasts
BakedEggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds
David’sDouble-LemonDutchBaby
LemonMuffinswithCrystallizedGinger
LemonCornmealRicottaWaffles
Salads
ShavedZucchiniSaladwithLemonandMarjoram
KaleandBrusselsSproutsSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette
SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette
CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwithPreservedLemon
Sides
ToastedCauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds
ButteryHedgehogPotatoeswithLemonandHerbs
GrilledCornontheCobwithSmokedPaprika-LemonButter
PepperyLemonParmesanBiscotti
LemonMiso-RoastedDelicataSquash
Vegetarian
Lemon–GoatCheeseGnocchiwithShellingPeasandGreenGarlic
Lentil-ChardSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill
AsparagusandLemonPestoPizzawithSmokedMozzarella
SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs
LemonDalwithSpinachandYogurt
Seafood,Meat,andPoultry
Pan-SearedHalibutwithLemonRelish
GrilledLambChopswithLemon,Sumac,andZa’atar
MeyerLemonRisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche
CedarPlank–GrilledSalmonwithLemons
GrilledFlankSteakwithCharredLemonChimichurri
BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa
ToastedBreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette
LemonParmesanChickenSoupwithHerbedDumplings
Sweets
MiniLemonMeringueWhoopiePieswithLemonCurdFilling
BestLemonBars
LemonandPoppySeedParfaitwithStrawberries
Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmondMacarons
LemonCrinkleCookies
LemonButtermilkPannaCottawithLemonVerbenaandBlackberries
AffogatowithLimoncelloIceCream
LemonCrèmeBruléewithLavenderandHoney
ToastedCoconut–LemonTart
MeyerLemonandTangerineOliveOilCake
Drinks
RoseGeraniumLemonade
StrawberryLemonAguaFrescawithBasil
LemonMintLimonina
HomemadeLimoncello
LemonStickforAdults
Green-and-LemonShots
LemonRosemaryBarleyWater
Staples
PreservedLemons
HomemadeRicottaCheese
LemonCurd
LemonChutneywithDatesandCoriander
Lemon-InfusedOliveOil
MeyerLemon–GrapefruitMarmalade
CandiedLemonRibbons
introductionIwasfirstseducedbyalemonatthetenderageofsix.Alemonstick,tobeexact.AsignatureitemoftheannualFlowerMartinBaltimore,lemonsticks—apeppermintstickunceremoniouslyjammedintoalemon—areastapleofthecity’sspringtimefairsandfestivals.Idrewthejuiceofmylemonupthroughtheporouspeppermintcandy,smittenwiththefruit’sbitternessandthewayitmademyentiremouthpucker.Iwasinlemonlove.
Lush-leavedlemontreesareascommonasbackyardswimmingpoolsinCalifornia,wherewemovedwhenIwasnine.Throughouttheyear,theairisperfumedwiththeirscent,especiallythatofthethin-skinned,marigold-yellowMeyerlemon.Therearerough-skinned,egg-shapedEurekaandLisbonlemonstoo,inshadesofpaleyellowandgreen.Buttheirsunnyappearancebelieswhat’sinside—afruitnearlyimpossibletoeat,asthePeter,PaulandMarysonggoes:“Lemontree,verypretty,andthelemonflowerissweet,butthefruitofthepoorlemonisimpossibletoeat.”
Alemon’sunapologeticacidity—sharpenoughtocreateahoneycombtunnelfromoneendofmypeppermintsticktotheother—impartsanintensefreshnessasvitaltocoaxinggoodflavorfromyourcookingassalt.Asquirtoflemonjuicebrightenssavorydishesandgivesanunmistakableedgetodesserts.Lemonzestaddsapunchoflemonyflavortoeverythingfromrichgoatcheesegnocchiandcreamyrisottotocornmealwafflesandbelovedlemonbars.Wholelemons—preserved,pickled,pureed,salted—becomedeliciouscondiments,theirsournesssubduedbythesimilarlyboldflavorsoftheMiddleEastandSoutheastAsia.Stripsoflemonpeelgarnishcocktailsandinfusethecontentsofsimmeringpotswithpotentlemonessence.ThoughIamcommittedtocookingprimarilywithingredientsthatgrowclosebyandareinseason,I’llmakeanexceptionforlemonswithouthesitation.
Lemonsarealwaysavailable,butyoumayhavenoticedthatcitrusisbestinthewintermonths,whenitspresenceinarichdishismostdramaticallytransformativeandbalancing.Thestrong,clearflavoroflemonscutsthroughtheheavinessofthefattyfoodsweindulgeinduringtheholidays,andthebestmarmaladeismadewithwinterfruit.Butlemonshaveaninsistentpersonalitythatallowsthemtoplayaleadingyetcomplementaryrolethroughouttheyear,whenpairedwithmoredelicateingredientssuchasspringvegetables,summerberries,andeggsandcream.
Sowhatqualifiesadishforinclusioninalemoncookbook?ThatwassomethingIaskedmyselfoftenwhendevelopingtheserecipes.Somecontainentirelemons—peel,pulp,andpith—announcingproudly,“Iamlemon,hearmeroar.”Othersgetpluckyflavorfromthefruit’szestanditsessentialoils.Stillothersareremarkablyenhancedbyasimple,judicioussqueezeoflemon.Refreshingandversatile,lemonshaveaplaceinourdrinks,onourpizzas,andatourbreakfasttables.Zestandjuicethem,yes,butroast,grill,andpreservethemtoo.Andwhenspringcomesaround,pierceonewithapeppermintstick;Iguaranteeit’llmakeyoupucker—andsmile.
alemonprimerAlemonisalemonisalemon,right?Notexactly.Foralltheirubiquityanduniformity,acloserlookrevealsthatlemonscomeindifferentvarieties,shapes,andsizes.Somearesmallandjuicy,whileothershavethickjacketsthathidesurprisinglytasteless,juicelesspulp.Alemoncanbeusedfromtheinsideout,eachpartbringingitsownuniquequalitiestoyourcookingandbaking.Readonfortipsonchoosingthebestlemon,figuringoutwhatitwillyield,andgettingthemostfromit.
LemonVarietiesNearly95percentofthelemonsgrownintheUnitedStatescomefromCaliforniaandArizona,withthebalancefromFlorida.Althoughtherearefewopportunitiesformostofustoenjoyatrulylocallemon,there’sasourceoneitherendofthecountry,andthey’reavailableyear-round.Thetwomainlemonvarieties,EurekaandLisbon,arenearlyidenticalinappearance,largeandeggshapedwithfinelypittedskin.Theonlywaytotellthemapartisthetimeofyear:Eurekasareasummervariety,andLisbonsareplentifulinthefall.
Meyerlemonsareacrossbetweenalemonandanorangeortangerine.Floralandveryaromatic,theirjuiceissweeterandshouldbeusedincombinationwithregularlemonjuiceifyou’relookingtoaddaciditytoarecipe.
LemonsAreGoodforYou
Whenitcomestonaturalhealthbenefits,lemonsleadthepack.Theycontainuniqueflavonoidcompoundsthathaveantioxidantandanti-cancerproperties,andarevaluedfortheirantibioticeffects.
Inadditiontocontainingamultitudeofphytonutrientbenefits,lemonsareasourceofotheressentialnutrientsincludingvitaminA,beta-carotene,calcium,magnesium,folate,phosphorous,andpotassium,manyofwhicharecontainedinitspeel.TheyareespeciallyrichinvitaminC,oneofthemostimportantantioxidantsfoundinfood.VitaminCisessentialformaintainingafullyfunctionalimmunesystem,aidingdigestion,balancingthebody’spHlevels,fightingtumors,andhelpingwoundstohealmorequickly.
HowtoChooseaLemonChoosingafresh,juicylemonisn’taboutfindingtheonewiththemostvibrantlycoloredskin.Instead,lookforfruitwithanallovernaturalsheen,indicatingthatthelemonhasretaineditsessentialoil.Theskinshouldbefreeofsoftspotsandexcessivetextureorpitting,andthefruitshouldbeplumpandfeelheavy.Thoughyoumightguessthattheweightisinthejuice,it’sactuallyinthesugar.Ripenessincitrusfruitismeasuredbysweetness,usingtheBrix/acidratio,betterknownformeasuringthesugarinwinegrapes.
Becausetheirskinisporous,lemonsabsorbwhateverthey’vebeensprayedwith.Forthatreasonalone,it’sworthseekingoutorganiclemons.Theytendtobethinnerskinnedandjuicierthanthelargerconventionallemons,whichareoftendyedforevencolorandcoatedwithwax.Inmyexperience,grocerystoresoftencarrytwo-poundbagscontainingeightorganiclemonsthatrarelyendupbeingmoreexpensivethanthoseforsalebytheeach.
Ifyoucan’tfindorganiclemons,washthefruitwellinlightlysoapywarmwaterwithasoftvegetablebrush.
It’sAllintheZestTheskinofthelemon—commonlyreferredtoasthezest—isthesourceofitspotentflavor,whilethejuicecontainsthetart,acidicqualitiesnotfoundinthefruit’sjacket.Usezestifyouwanttoinfuseyourfoodandcocktailswithintense,brightlemonessence.
Thekeytoremovingthezestistotakethelemon’sthintopyellowlayerandleaveasmuchofthebitterwhitepithbehindaspossible.Finelygratedzestreleasesmoreofthefruit’svolatileoil—henceflavor—thanlargestrips,sochooseyourzestingtoolaccordingtotheintensityofflavoryourdishrequires.Alwayszestintothebowlorpanyou’lluseinthecourseofmakingtherecipetocatchthemistoflemonoilthat’sreleasedasyouremovetheskin.
ToolsforzestingTheshallowbladesofatraditionalfive-holezesterremovethinstrandsfromthetoplayerofthepeel.Thelongstrandscanbeusedwhole,toinfuseanitemwithflavor,orchopped.Whenarecipecallsforfinelyorcoarselychoppedzest,useatraditionalzestertoremovethepeel.Anaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonwillyield1tablespoonofchoppedzest.
Bartendersuseachannelknifetomakethecurlytwistofcitrustraditionalincocktails.Butit’sthelemonoilthatisreleasedwiththetwistthataddstheflavor.
UseavegetablepeelerwithaY-shapedhandleandsharpbladetoremove1-inch-widestripsofpeelforcandyingandinfusions.Oneaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonwillyieldsevenoreightstripsofpeel.
Aboxgraterisonewaytogetfinelygratedzest.Stretchapieceofplasticwrapoverthesideofthegraterwiththesmallestholesand,holdingittaut,grateasusual.Thezest(andpreciousessentialoils)willendupontheplasticwrapratherthanstuckintheholesofthegraterandcanbeeasilyandthoroughlyremoved.Gratedthisway,oneaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonyieldsabout2teaspoonsoffinelygratedzest.
AMicroplane/raspcanalsobeusedforfinelygratedzest.Fastandeasytouse,itgentlyremovestheyellowskin(leavingthepithbehind)andessentialoilsinafine,featheryzest—justrubthefruitagainstitwithquickdownwardstrokes,rotatingasyougo,togetthezestallthewayaround.Oneaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonyieldsapproximately1tablespoonoflightlypacked,finelygratedzest.
HowtoJuiceaLemonIflemonistheflavoryou’rehighlightinginarecipe(thinklemonbarsorcurd),there’snosubstituteforfreshlemonjuice.You’veprobablynoticedtheoff-flavorthatmostbottledlemonjuicehas,moreacidicthanbright.That’sbecausethebottledstuffusuallycontainsadditivessuchassugarandwater,aswellaspreservatives,includingcitricacidandsulfites.Ifit’sacidityratherthanlemonflavoryou’reafter,tryvinegarinstead.
Tokeepplentyoffreshlemonjuiceonhandwithoutworryingaboutabagoflemonsgoingbad,getoutthejuicer.Firstthough,removethezest,asit’smoredifficulttozestfruitsafterjuicing.Storethezestinasmallairtightplasticcontainerinthefreezerforuptosixmonths.Addtoyoursupplywheneveryouneedlemonjuicebutnotthezest.Next,juicethefruitandfreezeitinsmallportionsinsomethinglikeanicecubetray.Whenthecubesarefrozen,popthemoutintoazipperedbag.Thesmallamountdefrostsquicklyandcanevenbeaddeddirectlytohotfoods.
TipsforjuicingTogetthemostjuice,startwithaclean,drylemonandusethepalmofyourhandtoapplygentlepressureasyourollthefruitagainstthecuttingboard.Halvethefruitcrosswise.(Thoughthere’saschoolofthoughtthatalemonhalvedlengthwiseyieldsmorejuicethanonecutcrosswise,that’snotbeenmyexperience.)Room-temperaturelemonswillusuallyyieldabitmorejuicethancoldones.
ToolsforjuicingAreamer(orfork)isalow-tech,inexpensivetoolthatisalsooneofthemosteffectiveforjuicing.Theideawithboththereamerandforkistoholdthecutfruitinonehand,plungethetoolinwiththeother,andtwistitsothatitgrabsandpressesthefleshofthefruit,releasingthejuice.(Thisalsoreleasestheseeds,whichistheonlydrawback.)Therearereamerattachmentsforstandmixerstoo.
Handjuicersoperateonthesameprincipalasreamers,buttheyhaveasaucertocatchtheseeds.Placethelemonhalfoverthereamercapandtwist,usinglightpressure,toreleasethejuiceandlittlebitsoftheflesh.
Ahandheldcitruspresscradlesthecitrushalfintheconcavesideofthejuicer,cutsidedown.Whentheconvexdomeisloweredontothecitrus,itflipsitinsideout,effectivelyremovingallthejuiceandnoneoftheseedsorpulp.
Howmuchjuiceisinalemon?Theamountofjuiceyou’llextractfromalemonvarieswidely,basedonthesizeofthefruit,itstemperature(coldfruityieldslessjuice),andthemethodusedtoextractthejuice.Forthemostpart,thelargerthelemon,themorejuiceitwillgiveyou;thick-skinned,conventionallygrownlemonswhichcanweighuptoone-halfpoundeachareanexceptiontothisrule.
Onesmallorganiclemon,weighing3to4ounces,containsaround2tablespoonsofjuice,whileanaverage,ormedium,4-to5-ouncelemonwillyieldupto¼cupofjuice.Aconventionallemonweighing7to8ounceswillyieldabout¼cupplus1tablespoonofjuice.
HowtoPeelandSegmentaLemonThebestwaytopeelalemon(andmostothercitrus)istobeginbyslicingoffenoughoftheblossomandstemendstoexposesomeofthepulp.Thenstandthefruitononeofitsflatsidesonacuttingboard.Usingasmallsharpknife,cutawaythepeelandwhitepith,
followingthenaturalcurveofthefruit.Whenyouarefinished,thefleshwillbecompletelyexposed.Shaveoffanystraybitsofpith.Toremovethesegments(alsocalledsupremes),workoverabowltocatchanyjuiceasyoucutthepulpawayfromthemembranesconnectingthem,allowingthefruitsegmentstodropintothebowlwiththejuice.
HowtoStoreLemonsIfkeptawayfromdirectsunlight,lemonswillstayfreshatroomtemperatureforaboutoneweek.Storetheminthecrisperdraweroftherefrigeratorforlongerperiodsoftime,uptoaboutonemonth.
UsingNonreactiveCookwareReactivecookwareandequipmentmadefromaluminum,castiron,orcoppercanimpartametallictasteand/orcausediscolorationincertainfoods,especiallyacidicoralkalineingredientslikelemonjuice,vinegar,andsalt.Whenarecipecallsforanonreactivebowlorpan,useglass,enamel,ceramic,orstainlesssteeltoavoidsuchareaction.
breakfasts
BakedEggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds
David’sDouble-LemonDutchBaby
LemonMuffinswithCrystallizedGinger
LemonCornmealRicottaWaffles
bakedeggswithlemon,cream,andpoppyseeds
bakedeggswithlemon,cream,andpoppyseedsThiscombinationwaslooselyinspiredbyapastadishonthemenuatEmily,arestaurantinBrooklyn.Eggsandlemongetalongfamously,andIliketheideaofpairingthetwowithpoppyseedsinasavorydish.usingbothlemonoilandzestprovidesacomplexhitofflavor.
Thissimpledishdeservesthebest,freshesteggsyoucanfind.serveitwithacrustybaguette,splitdownthemiddleandlightlytoasted,forscoopinganddipping.Addasmallgreensaladandyouhavethemakingsofanelegantlunchorbrunch.Notethatyou’llneedtouse4½-to5-inchramekinsforindividualservings.
MAKES4SERVINGS
6teaspoonsLemon-InfusedOliveOil,extra-virginoliveoil,ormeltedbutter,divided
1mediumshallot,finelyminced,divided
2tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest,divided
1ounceParmesancheese,finelygrated(about½cup),divided
¾cupheavycream,divided
Koshersalt
8eggs,atroomtemperature
2teaspoonspoppyseeds,divided
4teaspoonsfinelychoppedfreshchives,divided
Preheattheovento350degreesF.
Thoroughlycoatthebottomandsidesof4ovenprooframekinsorbakingdishes,using1½teaspoonsoftheoilforeach.Puttheramekinsonabakingsheetwithsides(tomakemovingtheminandoutoftheoveneasier).
Dividetheshallotamongtheramekins,addingnomorethan2teaspoonsperdish.Add1½teaspoonsofthezestand1tablespoonofthecheesetoeachramekin,coverwith1tablespoonofthecream,andseasonwithapinchofsalt.
Carefullycrack2eggsintoeachdish,startingwithanewoneiftheyolkbreaks.Pour2tablespoonsoftheremainingcreamovereachyolkandsprinkleitwith1tablespoonoftheremainingcheese,½teaspoonpoppyseeds,andapinchofsalt.Bakefor10to12minutes,oruntiltheeggsarejustslightlyset.Garnisheacheggwith1teaspoonofthechivesandserveimmediately.
david’sdouble-lemondutchbaby
david’sdouble-lemondutchbabyThiscustardy,oven-bakedpancakegoesbyseveraldifferentnames,butwhenIwasgrowingup,wecalleditDavidEyre’sPancake,whichiswhatCraigClaibornedubbeditinhis1966NewYorkTimescolumn.Thefirsttimemymothermadethepancake,mysisterandIwatcheditswellandsouffléaroundtheedgesthroughtheovenwindow,atleastasexcitedaboutwhatitwasdoingashowitwouldtaste.Somewherealongtheway,becauseIloveitsflavorinbakedgoods,IstartedaddingcardamomtothebatterandrechristenedthepancakeDavid’sDutchBaby,anodbothtocardamom’swideuseinScandinaviancookinganditsother,equallypopularname.Besuretobuycardamomencasedinitspodandgrindtheseedsfreshforthebestflavor.ThisisafavoriteonSaturdaymorningsatmyhouse.
MAKESONE10-INCHPANCAKE
1cupunbleachedall-purposeflour
1tablespoongranulatedsugar
Generouspinchofkoshersalt
Seedsfrom4to5greencardamompods(about¼teaspoonseeds)
4eggs
1cupwholemilk
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter
¼cupconfectioners’sugar
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
Preheattheovento425degreesFandplacearackinthemiddleoftheoven.
Inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheflour,granulatedsugar,andsalt.Finelygrindthecardamomseedsusingamortarandpestleorcleancoffeegrinderandaddtothedryingredients.Setaside.
Inalargebowl,lightlywhisktheeggswiththemilkandzest.Addthedryingredientsandlightlywhiskuntilblended.Thebatterdoesn’thavetobecompletelysmooth,butmakesuretherearen’tanylargelumpsofflour.
Inamedium(10-inch)cast-ironskilletovermedium-highheat,meltthebutter,swirlingthepanoccasionally,untilthebutterisveryhotandfoamy,andalmostbeginningtobrown.Immediatelypourinthebatterandputtheskilletintheoven.Bakefor20minutes,oruntiltheedgesarebillowyandbrownandthecenterofthepancakehaspuffedup.Removethepanfromtheoven,sprinklethepancakeevenlywiththeconfectioners’sugar,andreturnittotheovenfor2to3moreminutes.Sprinklethelemonjuiceoverthetopandserveimmediately.
lemonmuffinswithcrystallizedgingerAwholelemon,finelychopped,andasmallhandfulofcrystallizedgingerpunchuptheflavorofthesemuffinsinthewintermonths.Comesummer,swapthegingerforfreshblueberriesorhuckleberriesforalemonytwistonafamiliarbreakfastfavorite.Ifyou’relookingtoimpress,scoopthebatterintotulipbakingcups.Cooled,glazed,andgarnishedwithcandiedlemonpeelorcrystallizedgingerpieces,theycouldprobablybepassedoffasdessert!
MAKES1DOZENMUFFINS
1¾cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
2teaspoonsbakingpowder
¾teaspoonkoshersalt
½teaspoonbakingsoda
1smallthin-skinnedlemon
10tablespoons(1¼sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
1cupsugar
2eggs
1teaspoonvanillaextract
1cupwholemilkGreekyogurt
½cupplus3tablespoonscoarselychoppedcandiedginger,divided
FORTHEGLAZE:
½cupconfectioners’sugar
1tablespoonplus1teaspoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
Preheattheovento350degreesF.Lineastandard12-cupmuffintinwithpaperlinersorlightlybutteranddustitwithflour.
Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andbakingsoda.Setaside.
Trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemon,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows,thenhalveit.Gentlysqueezeeachhalfoverabowltoloosentheseedsandremovesomeofthejuicebeforecuttingthehalvesintosmallerpieces,removinganyseedsasyougo.Placethepiecesandjuiceinablenderorthebowlofafoodprocessorandprocessuntilthelargestpiecesarethesizeofagrainofrice.Setaside.
Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorusingahandheldelectricmixer,beatthebutterandsugaronmedium-highspeeduntillightandfluffy,about5minutes.Usingaspatula,scrapethesidesofthebowl,thenreducethespeedtomediumandaddtheeggsoneatatime,mixinguntilthoroughlycombined.Addthevanillaandbeatseveralseconds.
Addone-thirdofthedryingredientsandincorporateonlowspeed,thenincreasethespeed
tomediumandmixfor1minute.Addhalfoftheyogurtandmixbrieflytoincorporate.Addhalfoftheremainingdryingredientsandincorporateonlowspeedbeforeincreasingthespeedtomediumfor1minute.Repeatwiththeremainingyogurtanddryingredients.Usingaspatula,scrapethebottomandsidesofthebowlandfoldinthechoppedlemonand½cupofthecandiedginger.Useanicecreamscooptodistributethebatterevenlyamongthepreparedmuffincups.
Bakefor35to45minutes,oruntilthemuffinsspringbacktothetouch.Transfertoawireracktocoolcompletelybeforeglazing.
Tomaketheglaze,inasmallbowl,mixtheconfectioners’sugarandlemonjuicewithaforkuntilsmooth.Spoonasmallamountoneachmuffin,spreadingitslightlywiththebackofthespoon.Finelychoptheremaining3tablespoonscrystallizedgingerandsprinkleitoverthemuffins.
lemoncornmealricottawaffles
lemoncornmealricottawafflesThisbatterpuffsupenthusiasticallywhenithitsahotgriddle,sodon’tletthelackofawafflemakergetinthewayofwhippingupabatch.Thethickbattertakeslongertocookthroughthansomepancakebatters,sobesuretostartwithahotpanovermediumheat,adjustingtheheatasyougo.Ifyouopttoslipinslicesofbananaorahandfuloffreshblueberries,makesureyoucookthepancakesanextraminuteortwooneachside.
Iliketoeatthesetoppedwithfreshfruitandpowderedsugar,butIdoubtyou’dbeunhappyifyouwentwithwarmmaplesyrup,homemadejam,oradrizzleofhoneyinstead.
MAKESABOUT1DOZEN4-INCHBELGIANWAFFLES,ORSIXTEEN3-INCHPANCAKES
2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
¼cupcornmeal
¼cupsugar
2teaspoonsbakingpowder
1teaspoonkoshersalt
Scant½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg
½teaspoonbakingsoda
1cupwholemilk
⅓cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from2mediumlemons)
2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)
2eggs
¼cup(½stick)plus2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled,divided
¾cupHomemadeRicottaCheeseorstore-bought
1teaspoonvanillaextract
Preheattheovento200degreesF.Preheatthewaffleironaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.
Inalargebowl,stirtogethertheflour,cornmeal,sugar,bakingpowder,salt,nutmeg,andbakingsoda.Inamediumbowl,whiskthemilk,lemonjuiceandzest,andeggs,thenwhiskin¼cupofthebutter.Addthewetingredientstothedry,mixingjustuntilmoistened.It’sokayifsomelumpsremain.Inasmallbowl,breakupanyclumpsofricottausingaforkandmixinthevanilla.Gentlyfoldthecheeseintothebatterusingaspatula.Donotovermix;thebattermaybethickandslightlylumpy.
Lightlycoatthewaffleironwiththeremaining2tablespoonsbutter.Pourenoughbatterintothewaffleirontojustcoverthegrid(about⅓cup).Closeandcookpermanufacturer’sinstructionsuntilgoldenbrown,about2to3minutes.Transfercookedwafflestoabakingsheettokeepwarmwhileyoumaketherest.
Ifyou’remakingpancakes,lightlycoatagriddlewithbutterandmeltthebutterovermediumheat.Workinginbatches,pour¼cupofbatterperpancakeontothegriddle.Cookuntilthesurfaceisbubblingandtheedgesareslightlydry,about4minutes.Turnandcookuntilthebottomisgoldenbrown,another3to4minutes.Transfercookedpancakestoabakingsheettokeepwarm.
Becausereheatedwafflestasteeverybitasgoodasthosehotoffthewaffleiron,Iusuallyputtogetherandbakeafullbatch,evenifthefreshonesarejustfortwo.Lettheextrawafflescoolcompletely,puttheminaziplockfreezerbag,andfreezeforupto2months.Foraspurofthemomentbreakfasttreat,popthefrozenwaffles(noneedtothaw)intoatoasterortoasterovenuntilhotandcrisp.Toreheatalargerbatch,crispthemina350-degreeFovenforabout10minutes.
salads
ShavedZucchiniSaladwithLemonandMarjoram
KaleandBrusselsSproutsSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette
SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette
CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwithPreservedLemon
shavedzucchinisaladwithlemonandmarjoram
shavedzucchinisaladwithlemonandmarjoramThoughyoucouldalsousemintororegano,marjoram—oregano’ssoft-spokenlittlesister—pairsespeciallywellwithzucchiniinthissimplesalad.
Saltingthezucchinibeforeassemblingthesaladcausesittowiltslightlyandgivesitenoughflavortostanduptothepluckylemon-forwarddressing.Don’tletitsittoolong,however,orthezucchiniwillgetsquishyandwet,andloseanytextureitoncehad.Long,thinshavingsofPecorinoRomanooranothersaltysheep’smilkcheese,madewithavegetablepeeler,areanicefinishingtouch.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
1½pounds(about3to4small)zucchini,thinlyslicedlengthwiseonamandolinorwithavegetablepeeler
2teaspoonskoshersalt
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1smallshallot,thinlyslicedonamandolinorfinelyminced
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
¼cupextra-virginoliveoil
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshmarjoram
PecorinoRomanocheeseshavings,forgarnish(optional)
Inacolandersittingoverabowlorinthesink,combinethezucchiniribbonsandsalt.Tosswelltocoattheribbonsandsetasidefor10minutes.After10minutes,gatherupthezucchiniinseverallargehandfuls,andgentlysqueezesomeofthemoistureoutofeach.
Inalargebowl,mixthelemonjuicewiththeshallotandasmallpinchofsalt.Addthezestandwhiskintheoilinaslow,steadystream.Stirinthemarjoramandaddthezucchiniribbonstothebowl,tossingtoevenlycoatthem.Serveimmediately,toppedwiththecheeseshavings.
kaleandbrusselssproutssaladwithlemon–brownbuttervinaigrette
Thinkofthissaladasawinterslaw,brightenedwithchunksofcreamyavocadoandnuttysunflowerseeds.Ifyou’resoinclined,it’sgoodwithalittlebitofcitrus:sectionsofpinkgrapefruit,bloodorange,ortangerinearealldeliciousadditions.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
2smallbuncheslacinatokale(about1pound),stemsremovedandleavesslicedintothinribbons
8ouncesbrusselssprouts(about12to16),halvedandthinlysliced
¼smallredonion,thinlysliced
½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces
FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:
¼cupwhitewinevinegar
⅓cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from2mediumlemons)
1tablespoonfinelychoppedlemonzest
2tablespoonsfinelymincedshallot
Pinchkoshersalt
¼cupextra-virginoliveoil
1tablespoonhoney
Freshlygroundblackpepper
..........
1firm,ripeavocado,pittedandcubed
¼cuptoastedsunflowerseeds
Inalargebowl,combinethekale,brusselssprouts,andonion.Setthesaladasidewhileyoubrownthebutter.
Inasmall,light-coloredpanthatallowsyoutoseethecolorofthebutter,meltthebutterovermediumheat,swirlingitoccasionallytoensureitmeltsevenly.Itwillbegintofoamandchangecolor,fromlightyellowtogoldenbrowntoaslightlydarker,toastybrownthatsmellsnutty.Removethepanfromtheheatandtransferthecontentstoasmallheatproofbowl.Themilksolidswillhavesettledtothebottomofthepanandbrowned;leaveasmuchofthatsedimentbehindaspossible.Setthebutteraside.
Inamediumnonreactivebowl,combinethevinegarandlemonjuicewiththezest,shallot,andabigpinchofsalt.Whisktheoilintothewarmbutterandaddthehoney.Slowlydrizzlethemixtureintothevinegarandlemonjuice,whiskingconstantly,untilthevinaigretteemulsifies.Checktheseasoningandaddsaltandpeppertotaste.
Addabout¼cupofthewarmvinaigrettetothegreensandmassagethemwithyourhands
untiltheysoftenslightlyandfeellessraw.Continuetoaddthevinaigrette,afewtablespoonsatatime,untilthegreensarewelldressedbutnotsoggy(reserveanyextravinaigretteforanotheruse).Addtheavocadoandsunflowerseeds,tosstocombine,andserveimmediately.
summertomatoandgreenbeansaladwithpreservedlemonvinaigrette
summertomatoandgreenbeansaladwithpreservedlemonvinaigrette
Thissalad,simplydressedinazippy,herbaceousvinaigrette,showcasesthebestofsummer.Serveitwithgrilledfish,orskipthericottasalataandaddgood-qualitycannedtunaandafewboiledpotatoesforaquickNiçoisesalad.
MAKES8SERVINGS
FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:
1tablespoonplus1½teaspoonsfinelymincedshallot
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
Pinchkoshersalt
1tablespoonDijonmustard
2teaspoonshoney
½cupextra-virginoliveoil
6tablespoonscoarselychoppedsoftherbssuchasparsley,basil,tarragon,andchives
1½teaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest
½PreservedLemonorstore-bought,fleshdiscardedandpeelfinelychopped
Freshlygroundblackpepper
..........
2pintsmixedcherrytomatoes,halved
1½poundsgreenbeans,trimmed
2ouncesricottasalatacheese,shavedwithavegetablepeeler
Tomakethevinaigrette,inasmall,nonreactivebowl,combinetheshallotsandlemonjuicewiththesalt.Setasidefor10minutestoallowtheshallotstosoftenandsweetenslightly.Then,addthemustardandhoney,andslowlydrizzleintheoil,whiskingconstantly,untilthevinaigretteemulsifies.Stirintheherbs,lemonzest,andpreservedlemon,andseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.
Inamediumbowl,tossthetomatoeswith½cupvinaigretteandsetasidetomarinateforatleast20minutes,oruntilyou’rereadytoservethesalad.
Whilethetomatoesmarinate,bringapotofgenerouslysaltedwatertoaboil.Cookthebeansuntilthey’rejusttender,about4minutes.Draintheminacolanderandcoolthebeansbyrunningthemundercoldwaterbriefly.Spreadthemonabakingsheetlinedwithacleantowel.Setasideuntilcompletelycoolanddry.
Justbeforeserving,addthebeansandricottasalatashavingstothetomatoesandvinaigrette.Tosstocombinetheingredients,addtheremainingvinaigretteandseasontotastewithadditionalsaltandpepper.Marinatefor10minutesbeforeserving.
crackedwheatandcarrotsaladwithpreservedlemonThere’sasatisfyingvarietyofflavorsandtexturesatplayinthisrecipe:salty,sweet,crunchy,andchewyfromthecrackedwheat.Thisismadebycrushingrawwheatberriesintosmallerpiecesinordertopreservethenutrient-richbranandgermlayers.Ifyou’reshortontime,substitutebulgur,whichisprecooked,forthecrackedwheat.Quinoaandmilletaregoodgluten-freealternatives.Allfouringredientscanbefoundatwell-stockedgroceryandnaturalfoodsstores.
Idon’trinsethepreservedlemon;itusuallyhastherightamountofsalttoseasonthevinaigretteandsalad.Youmayneedtoaddmoresaltbeforeserving,asthegrainscontinuetoabsorbtheflavorswhilethesaladsits.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
1cupcrackedwheat
1teaspoonkoshersalt
½PreservedLemonorstore-bought
⅓cupextra-virginoliveoil
2to3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(dependingonhowlemonyyoulikeyourdressing)
2teaspoonscoarselychoppedgarlic
¾teaspooncuminseeds,toastedandground
3carrots,thinlysliced(about2cups)
⅓cupcurrants
3scallions,whiteandlightgreenparts,thinlysliced
Freshlygroundblackpepper
1cuplightlypackedcoarselychoppedflat-leafparsley
Inaheavypanwithatight-fittinglid,placethecrackedwheatandsaltwith2cupsofwater.Bringthewatertoaboilandreducetheheattoasimmer.Coverandcontinuetocookoverthelowestheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthewheatistenderyetpleasantlychewy,20to25minutes.Drainanywaterthatremains.
Whilethewheatiscooking,separatethepulpofthepreservedlemonfromthepeel,removetheseeds,andaddthepulptoablender.Finelymincethepeelandreserveit.Addtheoil,lemonjuice,garlic,andcuminseedsandblenduntilsmooth.
Putthecrackedwheatinalargebowlwiththecarrots,currants,andscallions,toallowthewarmgrainstosoftentheotheringredientsslightly.Addhalfofthevinaigretteandthereservedlemonpeel.Stirwelltoincorporatethevinaigrette.Tastethesalad,addingmorevinaigretteifitisn’tflavorfulenough.Letthesaladsitfor15minutes,tasteagain,andaddpeppertotasteandmorevinaigretteifneeded(reserveextradressingforanotheruse).Addtheparsleyjustbeforeserving.
sides
ToastedCauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds
ButteryHedgehogPotatoeswithLemonandHerbs
GrilledCornontheCobwithSmokedPaprika-LemonButter
PepperyLemonParmesanBiscotti
LemonMiso-RoastedDelicataSquash
toastedcauliflower“couscous”withlemon,parsley,andalmonds
toastedcauliflower“couscous”withlemon,parsley,andalmonds
Cauliflowerhasanuncannyabilitytotrickthemouthintobelievingit’sconsumingsomethingladenwithglutenorcarbs,suchaspotatoes,rice,or,inthiscase,couscous.Whetherit’sfinelychoppedorpureed,thevegetabletakesonbuttery,silkyqualitiesthatdon’tshowupwhenit’ssteamedorroasted.
MAKES4SERVINGS
1(2-pound)headcauliflower,cutintosmallfloretswithV-inchorlessofstem
⅓cupsliveredalmondsorpinenuts
5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,divided
1½teaspoonskoshersalt
1smallgarlicclove,finelygratedorminced
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1cuplightlypackedflat-leafparsleyleaves,coarselychopped
Freshlygroundblackpepper
Usingafoodprocessorwitheitherthegratingattachmentorblade,grateorpulsethecauliflowerinbatchesuntilitresemblesgrainsofcouscous.Youshouldhaveabout4cups.(Youcanalsouseaknifetodicetheflorets,whichwilleasilybreakintoverysmallpiecesasyougo.)
Inalarge,wideskilletovermediumheat,toastthealmonds,stirringfrequently,untiltheysmellnuttyandaregoldenbrown,about7minutes.Setthenutsasideandwipeoutthepan.Warm3tablespoonsoftheoilovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilishot,addthecauliflowerandsalt.Sauté,stirringfrequently,untilthecauliflowerpiecesaretoastedandtender,12to15minutes.
Removethepanfromtheheatandimmediatelyaddthegarlicandzest,stirringwelltodistributetheflavorsthroughout.Afterthemixturehascooledslightly,addtheremaining2tablespoonsoil,thelemonjuice,almonds,andparsley.Seasonwithadditionalsaltandpepper,andallowthecauliflowertositforatleast15minutes,partiallycovered,fortheflavorstodevelop.Itisexcellentatroomtemperatureorcanberewarmedbrieflyovermedium-highheatbeforeserving.
butteryhedgehogpotatoeswithlemonandherbsTraditionallyknownasHasselbackpotatoes,thisdishisnamedfortheSwedishrestaurantwhereitoriginated,Hasselbacken.Hedgehogs,asIliketocallthisdish,aregoodwithalmostanypotato,thoughI’mespeciallyfondofYukonGoldsandRedBlisspotatoes.Repeatedbastingwitholiveoilandapluckylemon-and-herbcompoundbutterthatdribblesdownintotheaccordionfoldshastheeffectofcreatingcrispyedgessurroundingacreamy,flavorfulinterior.Asqueezeoflemononthestill-warmpotatoesaddsjusttherighthintofacidity.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
3tablespoonsfinelychoppedfreshparsley
1½tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest(from2smalllemons)
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshmarjoram
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshchives
2smallclovesgarlic
1teaspoonkoshersalt
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
20egg-sizeYukonGoldorRedBlisspotatoes(about4pounds)
2tablespoonsLemon-InfusedOliveOilorextravirginoliveoil
Freshlygroundblackpepper
½lemon
Inasmallbowl,combinethebutterwiththeparsley,lemonzest,marjoram,andchives.
Coarselychopthegarlicandsprinklethesaltoverit.Continuetochopthegarlicwiththesalt,holdingtheknifeata30-degreeangletothecuttingboardandpullingitacrossthepileofgarlicandsalttomakeapaste.Addthegarlicpasteandlemonjuicetothebutteranduseaforkorthebackofaspoontoincorporateit.Transferthebuttertoapieceofplasticwrapandshapeitintoalog1inchindiameter.Refrigerateuntilfirm,about30minutes.
Preheattheovento425degreesF.
Usingawoodenspoontocradlethepotato,slicethepotatoescrosswise,makingacutevery¼inch.(Thespoonwillpreventyoufromslicingallthewaythroughandseparatingtheslicesfromoneanother.)
Placethepotatoesinabakingpanandbrushthemalloverwiththeoil.Sprinklethemlightlywithsaltandpepperandbakefor30minutes,oruntilthesliceshavebeguntofanoutslightlyandseparatefromoneanother.Removethepanfromtheovenanduseaparingknifetonudgeapartanyslicesthatarestickingtooneanother.Placeasmallcoin—
or2,dependingonthesizeofyourpotatoes—ofbutterontopofeachpotato,pressingdowngentlytoencourageittomeltdownbetweentheslices;you’llhavesomebutterleftover.Bakethepotatoesforanother30minutes,bastingthemoccasionallywiththebutterinthebottomofthepan.Theyaredonewhenthetopsareslightlybrownandcrispy,andthemiddlesaretenderwhenpiercedwithaparingknife.Squeezethelemonhalfoverthepotatoesandserveimmediately.
grilledcornonthecobwithsmokedpaprika-lemonbutter
Whensweetcornisinseason,there’snothingI’drathereatfordinnerthanslicedtomatoesandtwoearsgrilledlikethis.IttastesalittlebitlikethegrilledcornsoldbystreetvendorsinMexicothatisslatheredingarlickymayonnaiseandsprinkledwithlimejuiceandcrumblyCotijacheese.Insteadofmayonnaise,Ibastethecornwithabrownbutterspreadseasonedwithplentyoflemonzestandjuice,plusgarlic,salt,andsmokedpaprika.
MAKES6SERVINGS
½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
1clovegarlic,finelygrated
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
½teaspoonsmokedpaprika
1½teaspoonskoshersalt
6earsfreshsweetcorn
3tablespoonscoarselychoppedfreshcilantro
Inasmall,light-coloredpanthatallowsyoutoseethecolorofthebutter,meltthebutterovermediumheat,swirlingitoccasionallytoensureitmeltsevenly.Itwillbegintofoamandchangecolor,fromlightyellowtogoldenbrowntoaslightlydarker,toastybrownthatsmellsnutty.Removethepanfromtheheatandtransferthecontentstoasmallheatproofbowl.Themilksolidswillhavesettledtothebottomofthepanandbrowned;leaveasmuchofthatsedimentbehindaspossible.Addthezestandgarlictothewarmbrownbutter.Allowthebuttertocoolcompletely,thenstirinthelemonjuice,paprika,andsalt.
Peelanddiscardtheoutercornhusks.Carefullypullbackthepale-greeninnerhusksandremovethesilk.Coverthekernelswiththehuskagain,tietheendwithkitchenstring,andsoaktheearsincoldwaterforatleast30minutes.
Preheatagasgrillforhighheat,about450degreesF,orprepareacharcoalgrillfordirect-heatcookingoverred-hotcoals.Removethecornfromthewater,andshakeoffanyexcessmoisture.Putthecornonthegrillandclosethelid.Turnthecornevery5minutes,sothatitcooksevenly,for10to15minutes.Untiethestring,peelbackthehusks,brushthecornwiththebutter,andcontinuetocookwiththehuskspeeledbackuntilthekernelsarecaramelizedonallsides,3to5moreminutes.
Removethecornfromthegrill,brushalloverwithmorebutter,andsprinklewithmoresalttotasteandthecilantro.
pepperylemonparmesanbiscottiThesesavorybiscottihaveitall:richnessandumamifromthecheese,brightnessfromthelemon,andacrunchykickfromthesemolinaandagenerousdoseoffreshlygroundblackpepper.Servethemwithwine,fordunkinginsoup,orwithfruitandcheese.
MAKESABOUT3DOZENBISCOTTI
1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
½cupsemolinaflour
2ouncesParmigiano-Reggianocheese,finelygrated(about1cup)
2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)
1tablespoonfreshlygroundblackpepper
2teaspoonskoshersalt
1teaspoonbakingpowder
¼cupextra-virginoliveoil
3eggs,divided
⅓cupwholemilk
Preheattheovento350degreesF.
Inalargebowl,thoroughlycombinetheflours,cheese,zest,pepper,salt,andbakingpowder.Drizzletheoiloverthetopanduseyourfingerstogentlyincorporateitintotheflour,untilthemixtureresemblescornmeal.
Inasmallbowl,whisk2oftheeggswiththemilkandaddthemtotheflourmixture,stirringwithaforktoformasoft,stickydough.Lightlymoistenyourhands(topreventthedoughfromstickingtothem)anddividethedoughinhalf.Arrangethepieceslengthwiseonabakingsheetlinedwithparchmentpaper.Shapeeachpieceintoalogapproximately12incheslong,3incheswide,and½inchhigh,lightlywettingyourhandsasnecessarytopreventsticking.Whisktheremainingeggandbrushthelogswithit.
Bakefor30minutes,rotatingthepanhalfwaythrough,oruntilthelogsarepalegoldenbrown.Removethesheettoarackandreducetheoventemperatureto300degreesF.Coolthelogsfor10minutes,transferthemtoacuttingboard,and,usingaserratedknife,cuteachlogdiagonallyinto½-inch-thickslices.Returnthebiscottitothebakingsheetandbakeforanother35to45minutes,turningthemoverhalfwaythroughthebakingtime.Thebiscottiarereadywhenthey’redryandlightgoldenbrownonbothsides.Theywillkeepupto2weeksinanairtightcontainer.
lemonmiso-roasteddelicatasquashOneofmyfavoritethingsaboutdelicatasquashisitstender,entirelyedibleskin,whichmakesitthemostuser-friendlywintersquash.Theseflavorsarefabulouswithcarrotstoo,ortrysubstitutingcilantrofortheparsley.You’llfindwhitemiso,madefromsoybeansthathavebeenfermentedwithrice,inwell-stockedgroceries,naturalfoodsstores,andAsianmarkets.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
3tablespoonswhitemiso
3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,divided
1tablespoonhoney
2teaspoonsharissa
1½poundsdelicatasquash(about3to4),halvedlengthwise,seeded,andcutinto½-inchthickmoons
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
½cupcoarselychoppedflat-leafparsley
Koshersalt
Preheattheovento425degreesF.
Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthemiso,oil,2tablespoonsofthelemonjuice,thehoney,andharissa.Addthesquashpiecestothebowlanduseyourhandstotossthemwiththepaste,makingsuretocoatthemevenly.Arrangetheminasinglelayeronalightlyoiledbakingsheetwithsides.Setthebowlasideforlater.
Roastthesquashfor15minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenand,usingtongs,turnthepiecesover.Returnthemtotheovenfor10moreminutes,oruntilthepiecesarelightlycaramelizedandtender.Transferthesquashbacktothebowlandtosswiththeremaining1tablespoonlemonjuice,thezest,andparsley.Seasontotastewithsalt.
vegetarian
Lemon–GoatCheeseGnocchiwithShellingPeasandGreenGarlic
Lentil-ChardSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill
AsparagusandLemonPestoPizzawithSmokedMozzarella
SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs
LemonDalwithSpinachandYogurt
lemon–goatcheesegnocchiwithshellingpeasandgreengarlic
lemon–goatcheesegnocchiwithshellingpeasandgreengarlic
Thecolorsandflavorsofthisdisharetheveryessenceofspring,butdon’twaitfordaffodilstomakeanappearancebeforetryingit.Therich,lemonygnocchicometogetherquickly,canbecookedaheadandrefrigeratedovernight,andpairequallywellwithflash-sautéedcherrytomatoes,shallots,andherbsinthesummer;chanterellesandcorninthefall;andbraisedlamborbeefinthewinter.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
8ouncesslightlysoft,mildfreshgoatcheese,atroomtemperature
8ouncescreamcheese(preferablywithoutstabilizers),atroomtemperature
1tablespoonplus1teaspoonfinelygratedlemonzest(from2smalllemons)
2teaspoonskoshersalt
2eggs
1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour,plusadditionalforrollingthedough
2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
2smallstalksgreengarlic,thinlyslicedonthediagonal,or3clovesgarlic,finelychopped
¼cupdrywhitewineorvermouth
3cupsfreshlyshelledgreenpeas
3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1tablespoonfinelychoppedfreshtarragon
Freshlygroundblackpepper
2tablespoonsfreshchives,cutinto½-inchlengths
Inalargebowl,combinethecheeses,zest,salt,andeggs.Mixwitharubberspatulauntilsmoothandadd¾cupoftheflour.Combinewellandgentlymixintheremainingflourtoformamoist,slightlystickydough.Donotovermixoryourgnocchiwillbeheavy.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigeratefor1hour.
Lightlyflourabakingsheetorlargeplatterandsetaside.Turnthedoughontoalightlyflouredworksurface,formitintoaball,andcuttheballintoquarters.Rolleachquarterintoa½-inch-thickrope.Useasharpknifetocuttheropesinto½-inchgnocchiandputthemonthebakingsheet.Repeattheprocesswiththeremainingdoughpieces;youshouldgetabout84.Lightlydustthegnocchiwithflour.Bringalargepotofgenerouslysaltedwatertoaboil.
Boilthegnocchiinbatchesof15to20;theywilltakeabout3minutestocook.They’redonewhentheyfloat—waitafewsecondsbeforeusingaslottedspoontoremovethe
gnocchitoabakingsheettocool.(Theywillbedelicatewhenwarmbutwillbecomesturdierastheycool.)Reserve1cupofthecookingliquid.Thecookedgnocchiwillkeepintherefrigeratorfor24hours.
Inalargeskilletovermediumheat,warmtheoil.Addthegarlicandcook,stirringconstantly,untilsoftened,about4minutes.Addthewineandsimmeruntiltheliquidintheskillethasreducedbyhalf,3to4minutes.
Addthegnocchi,peas,butter,and½cupofthereservedgnocchicookingliquidtotheskillet.Cookuntiltheingredientsarewarmedthroughandthesaucethickensslightly,about3minutes.Addthelemonjuice,tarragon,andsaltandpeppertotasteandtosstocombine.Dividethegnocchibetween6or8bowls.Garnishwiththechivesandserveimmediately.
lentil-chardsoupwithlemon,feta,anddillEarthylentilsaresavoredaroundtheworld,inpartbecausethey’recomplementedbyeverythingfrombaconandsausagetoIndianspicestotartingredientssuchassorrelandlemon.HeretheygetaGreektwist,intheformofaspoonfulofcreamyfetacheesespikedwithlemonanddilladdedtoeachbowlofsoupbeforeserving.Smearitonflatbreadortossitwithpasta—thisversatileandvibrantspreadwillinspireyoutofindnewwaystouseit.Ilikesheep’smilkfeta,whichiscreamierandlesssaltythanothervarieties.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
8ouncesleeks,whitepartsand1inchpalegreen
2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
1largeshallot,thinlysliced
2stalkscelery,thinlysliced
2bayleaves
1½cupsFrenchgreenorbrownlentils,sortedandrinsed
6cupsvegetablebrothorwater
1teaspoonkoshersalt
FORTHEFETATOPPING:
6ouncesfetacheese,preferablysheep’smilk
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1tablespooncoarselychoppedlemonzest
1smallclovegarlic,coarselychopped
¼cupextra-virginoliveoil
¼cuplightlypackedfreshdillsprigs
..........
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1smallbunchSwisschard,stemsreservedforanotheruseandleavescutinto1-inch-thickribbons
Freshlygroundblackpepper
Dillsprigs,forgarnish
Halvetheleekslengthwise,cutthemcrosswiseinto½-inch-thickslices,andwashthemwellinacolander.InalargestockpotorDutchovenovermedium-highheat,warmtheoil.Addtheleeks,shallot,andcelery,andsautéuntilsoftenedandtranslucent,about7minutes.Addthebayleavesandlentils,stirringtocombineandcoatwithoil.Addthevegetablebrothandsaltandbringtoaboil,overmedium-highheat.Lowertheheatandsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthelentilsarenearlytender,20to30minutes.
Meanwhile,makethetopping.Putthefetacheeseinthebowlofafoodprocessorwiththe
lemonjuice,zest,andgarlic.Pulseseveraltimestobreakupthecheeseandslowlyaddtheoilwiththemotorrunning.Whenthemixtureissmooth,addthedillandpulsetocoarselychopandincorporateit.Tasteforseasoning,addingmorelemonjuiceifthecheeseisparticularlysalty.
Tofinishthesoup,stirinthelemonjuiceandchardribbonsandcontinuetosimmeruntilthelentilsarecompletelytenderandthechardhaswilted,10to15minutes.Seasontotastewithsalt,pepper,andmorelemonjuiceifdesired.Toserve,dividethesoupamongbowls,addaspoonfulofthefetatopping,andtopwithadillsprig.
asparagusandlemonpestopizzawithsmokedmozzarella
Asuper-hotovenisthekeytohomemadepizzawithacrispycrust.Beginpreheatingyourovenwhilemakingthepestotogetitashotasitshouldbe.
Rawasparagusandalemonhalfwithitspeelcombinetocreatethisfresh-tasting,chunkypesto.Lookforfatasparagusspearsforaddedtexturalinterestandtominimizethechanceofoverpureeingthem.Smokedmozzarellaaccentsthe“green”flavorofthepestonicely,butregularfreshmozzarellaisgoodtoo.Thepestoisalsoexcellenttossedwithpastaorrice.
MAKESONE12-TO14-INCHPIZZA
Cornmeal,fordusting
FORTHEPESTO:
½lemon,seededandcutintosmallpieces
2smallclovesgarlic
1poundasparagus,trimmedandcutinto1½-inchpieces,tipshalvedlengthwise
¼cuptoastedpistachios
⅓cupplus1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil,divided
2ouncesParmigiano-Reggianocheese,coarselygrated(about½cup)
1½teaspoonskoshersalt
½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper
..........
14ounceshomemadeorstore-boughtpizzadough,atroomtemperature
6ouncesfreshsmokedmozzarellacheese,gratedorthinlysliced
Positionarackinthecenteroftheoven,placeapizzastoneonit,andpreheattheovento475degreesF.(Useaninvertedbakingsheetifyoudon’thaveapizzastone.)Dustapeeloraflatbakingsheet(withoutsides)withcornmealandsetaside.
Tomakethepesto,inthebowlofafoodprocessor,finelychopthelemonandgarlic.Addtheasparaguspieces(reservingthetips)andpistachios,pulsinguntilcoarselychopped.Add⅓cupoftheoilallatonceandprocessuntilthemixtureiswellcombinedbutnotpureed;itshouldlookasifyou’vegratedtheasparagus,withpiecesranginginsizefromagrainofricetogratedcheese.Pourthemixtureintoalargebowlandaddthecheese,salt,andpepper.Tasteandaddadditionalseasoningifnecessaryandsetthepestoaside.
Onalightlyflouredsurface,rolloutorstretchthepizzadoughtomakea12-to14-inchroundandtransfertothepreparedpeel.(Youcanalsoformtheroundonasheetofparchmentpaperandtransferitdirectlyontothepizzastonetobake.)Stirthepestowell,evenlyspreadabout1cupoverthedough,andarrangethemozzarellasothatmostofthe
pestoiscovered.Tossthereservedasparagustipswiththeremainingoilandscatteroverthecheese.
Bakefor16to18minutes,untilthecrustisdeepbrownandcrispyandtheasparaguspiecesontoparelightlycharred.(Ifyouusedparchmentpaper,bakefor8to10minutes,pullthepaperoutfromunderthepizzasothatthecrustcancrisp,andbakefor8moreminutes.)Removethepizzafromtheovenandcoolonarackorbakingsheetfor5minutesbeforeslicing.
Themostimportantruleofhomemadepizza?Lessismore.Usealighthandwhenaddingtoppingstoyourcrust,especiallyifthesaucethatsitsdirectlyontopisslightlyjuicy,liketomatosauceorthispesto.Spreadasuper-thinlayeronthedough,addtherestofthetoppings,andfinishwithafewdollopsofthesaucycomponentscatteredacrossthetopforadditionalflavor.
spaghettiwithradicchio,ricotta,andlemon-garlicbreadcrumbs
spaghettiwithradicchio,ricotta,andlemon-garlicbreadcrumbs
Therearemanygoodreasonstomakeandkeepfreshricottaonhand,butthispastaisoneofthebest.Ithitsmostoftheflavorreceptors—bright,bitter,salty—andaddsacreamyandcrunchytexturetoboot.Donotskipthebreadcrumbs.Lemony,garlicky,andslightlysalty,theyelevatethisdishfrompleasurabletomemorable.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
¼cupplus2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,divided
4clovesgarlic,finelychopped
2cupsfreshbreadcrumbs
Pinchkoshersalt
1cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedflat-leafparsleyleaves
2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons),divided
Freshlygroundblackpepper
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
1(1-pound)headradicchio,finelyshredded
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice,divided
1poundgood-qualityspaghettiorlinguine
1cupHomemadeRicottaCheeseorstore-bought
Inalargesautépanovermediumheat,warm¼cupoftheoil.Addthegarlicandcook,stirringoccasionally,for2to3minutes,oruntilfragrant.Addthebreadcrumbsandagenerouspinchofsalt,andcontinuetostiruntilthebreadcrumbsaretoastedandbrown.Transferthecrumbstoabowlandsetasidetocoolslightly.Whentheyarecool,addtheparsleyandadd1tablespoonofthezest.Seasontotastewithadditionalsaltandpepper,andsetaside.
Wipeanycrumbsoutofthepan,addthebutter,andmeltitovermediumheat.Whenthebutterisfoamy,addtheradicchioandcookuntilitwiltsandsoftensslightly,2to3minutes.Add2tablespoonsofwaterandsimmerfor2minutes,oruntilthewaterevaporates,thenadd1tablespoonofthelemonjuice.Setaside.
Bringapotofgenerouslysaltedwatertoaboilandcookthelinguineaccordingtothepackagedirections.Whileitcooks,combinethericottawiththeremaining2tablespoonsoil,1tablespoonzest,and1tablespoonlemonjuice.Tasteandaddmorejuiceifnecessary.Beforedrainingthepasta,setaside1cupofthecookingwater.
Returnthepastatothepot.Addsomeofthepastawatertothericottamixture,toloosenitandwarmitup,beforetossingitwiththepasta.Addtheradicchioandhalfofthebreadcrumbs,andtosstocombine,addingmoreofthepastawaterifitappearsdry.Placethe
pastaonalargeplatterandgarnishwiththerestofthebreadcrumbs.Serveimmediately.
lemondalwithspinachandyogurtInIndiancooking,anyandallvarietiesofdal,adishofpureedlegumes,canbeflavoredwithtadka,aperfumedbuttermadebyfryingdifferentcombinations(dictatedbyregion)offragrantspicesandseasonings,onions,ginger,garlic,andchilesinghee,orclarifiedbutter.Thoughit’snottraditional,Iliketoimbuecoconutoilwiththeseflavors.Thelast-minuteadditionoflemonzestandjuiceseemstopunchupeachoftheindividualflavors,creatingawholethatismorecomplexandmemorablethanthesumofitsparts.Servethisdalwithhotbasmatirice.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
2cupsyellowsplitpeas(chanadal),sortedandrinsed
1teaspoonturmeric
1smalldriedredchile,or1teaspoonredpepperflakes
¼cupcoconutoilorghee,divided
1tablespoonkoshersalt
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
1tablespoonbrownmustardseeds
1tablespooncorianderseeds,crushed
2teaspoonscuminseeds
1mediumonion,cutinto½-inchdice(about1½cups)
1cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedfreshcilantroleaves,includingsomestems,plusadditionalleavesforgarnish
2cupslightlypackedfreshspinachleaves
¼cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from1mediumlemon)
2teaspoonsfinelygratedlemonzest
WholemilkGreekyogurt,forgarnish
InalargepotorDutchoven,combinethepeas,6cupsofwater,theturmeric,thechile,2tablespoonsoftheoil,andthesalt.Bringthemixturetoaboil,stirringoccasionallytopreventthedalfromstickingtothebottomofthepot.Lowertheheatandsimmer,partiallycovered,untilthepeasareverysoftandtender,about1hour.
Meanwhile,makethetadka.Inalargesautépanovermediumheat,warmtheremaining2tablespoonsoilandthebutter.Whenthebutterisfoamy,addthemustard,coriander,andcuminseeds,stirringconstantlyuntiltheyarefragrant,about2minutes.Addtheonion,increasetheheattohigh,andcontinuetocookuntiltheoniongoesfromtranslucenttobrownaroundtheedges.Thisshouldtakeabout15minutes;don’tbeafraidtogettheonionsdark.Addthecilantroandspinach,andcontinuetocookforabout5moreminutes,untilbothhavewiltedslightlybutretaintheirbrightcolor.
Removethewholechileandstirthetadkaintothepeas.Seasontotastewithadditional
saltandcookovermedium-lowheatfor10to15minutestoallowtheflavorstocombine.Addthelemonjuiceandzestandcookforanother5minutesbeforeserving.Garnisheachportionwithaspoonfulofyogurtandafewcilantroleaves.
seafood,meat,andpoultry
Pan-SearedHalibutwithLemonRelish
GrilledLambChopswithLemon,Sumac,andZa’atar
MeyerLemonRisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche
CedarPlank–GrilledSalmonwithLemons
GrilledFlankSteakwithCharredLemonChimichurri
BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa
ToastedBreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette
LemonParmesanChickenSoupwithHerbedDumpling
pan-searedhalibutwithlemonrelish
pan-searedhalibutwithlemonrelishThepulpandzestofathin-skinned,medium-sizelemonisthebaseofthispiquant,chunkyrelish.Saltyolivesandcapersbalancetheacidity,alongwithplentyoffreshparsley.Tryitwithotherwhite-fleshedfish,grilledshrimp,orsalmon,orwithfreshsardinesandanchovies.Notethattherelishneedstomarinateforfourhoursoruptoovernight,somakeitthedaybeforeyouplantocookthefish.
MAKES4SERVINGS
FORTHERELISH:
1lemon,quartered(about¾cup)
2smallshallots,thinlyslicedintorings(about¼cup)
1teaspoonkoshersalt
1cuppitted,coarselychoppedgreenolives,suchasCastelvetrano
2tablespoonscapers,rinsedandpatteddry
½teaspoonredpepperflakes
¼cupextra-virginoliveoil
..........
1½poundsskinlesshalibutfillet,cutinto4pieces
½teaspoonfennelseed,freshlyground
½teaspoonkoshersalt
½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper
2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
¾cupcoarselychoppedflat-leafparsley
Tomaketherelish,removethepithyendsofthelemonquarters,andthinlyslicetherest,discardinganyseeds.Addthelemonslicestoabowlalongwiththeshallotsandsalt.Coverandsetasidefor45minutesoruntilthelemonsreleasesomeoftheirjuice.Addtheolives,capers,pepperflakes,and¼cupoftheoil.Inorderfortheflavorstodevelopfully,settherelishasidetomarinate4hoursoruptoovernight.
Patthehalibutdrywithapapertowel.Inasmallbowl,combinethefennelseed,salt,andpepperandsprinkleitalloverthehalibut.Inanonstickskilletorcast-ironpanovermedium-highheat,heattheoiluntilitshimmers.Addthehalibutandcook,undisturbed,untilbrownedonthebottom,about5minutes.Flip,addthebuttertothepan,andreducethetemperaturetomedium.Continuetocook,bastingthehalibutwiththebutter,for2minutes,oruntilthefishisopaqueinthecenter.
Stirtheparsleyintotherelish,spoontherelishovereachpieceoffish,andserveimmediately.
grilledlambchopswithlemon,sumac,andza’atarAftermarinatinginplainyogurtgussiedupwithlemon,garlic,andmint,theselambchopsarecoatedwithza’atarandsumac,MiddleEasternspices.Specifically,sumacisapleasantlyastringent,slightlyfruityberrythatisdriedandground.Together,theycreateanappealing,crispycrustonthechopswhentheymeettheheatofthegrill,perfectlycomplementingthelemonymarinade.Youcanpurchasebothza’atarandsumaconlineandatwell-stockedgroceriesorMiddleEasternmarkets.Notethatthechopsneedtomarinateovernight,soplanahead.
MAKES4SERVINGS
1(3to3½pound)rackoflamb,ribbonesfrenched,or3poundslambloinchops,1to1½inchesthick
Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
FORTHEMARINADE:
¾cupplainwholemilkyogurt
3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1tablespoonfinelychoppedlemonzest
2clovesgarlic,finelyminced
2tablespoonscoarselychoppedfreshmint
..........
3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
2clovesgarlic,finelyminced
3tablespoonsza’atar
4teaspoonssumac
3lemons,forgarnish
Mintleaves,forgarnish
Pattherackorchopsdrywithapapertowel,seasonthemwithsaltandpepper,andlaytheminashallownonreactivepansuchasarectangularglassbakingdish.
Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheyogurt,oil,lemonjuiceandzest,garlic,andmint.Pourthemarinadeoverthechops,turningthemoncetocoatbothsides.Coverthepanwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateovernight.
Removethelambfromtherefrigerator30to45minutespriortogrillingtoallowthemeattocometoroomtemperature.Preheatagasorcharcoalgrillformedium-highheat,about350degreesF.Removethelambfromthemarinade,wipethemarinadeoffcompletelywithapapertowel,anddiscardit.Combinetheoil,garlic,za’atar,andsumac,anduseyourfingerstorubthemixturealloverthelamb.
Scrapethegratecleanandlightlyoilit.Forarackoflamb,turnoneoftheburnersoff,orbankthecoalstoonesideofthegrill.Laytherackonthegrateoverdirectheatandcookthelambuntilbrownedallover,about10minutes.Movethelambtoacoolerpartofthegrill,coverandcook,turningoccasionally,untilaninstant-readthermometerinsertedinthecenterregisters130degreesF,about15minutes.Letthelambrestatleast10minutesbeforecuttingintoindividualchops.
Forloinchops,laythechopsonthegrateandgrillfor3minutes,thenturneachchop90degrees,andcookforanother3minutes,oruntilthechopsarenicelycharred.Flipthechopsandcookthemontheothersideforabout6moreminutes,turninghalfwaythrough.Theyshouldstillbepinkinside.Transferthechopstoawarmplatetorestfor5minutesbeforeserving.
Whilethelambrests,cutthelemonsinhalf,lightlybrushthemwithoilandgrill,cutsidedown,untilnicelycharred,about3minutes.Arrangethelambchopsonaplatterwiththegrilledlemonsandmintleaves.
meyerlemonrisottowithdungenesscrab,tarragon,andcrèmefraîche
ThisseafoodrisottoismyfavoritewaytocelebrateouroverlappingDungenesscrabandMeyerlemonseasonsontheWestCoast.OntheEastCoast,bluecrabsorstonecrabswouldworknicely,asdoeskingcrabmeatorwhateverfresh,localoptionyoucanfind.Iincorporateawholelemon,whichaccentsthecreamyriceandsweetcrabmeat.IfMeyerlemonsareunavailable,usethefinelychoppedzestofaregularlemonandasqueezeofjuiceinstead.
MAKES6SERVINGS
5to6cupslightlyflavoredvegetablebroth
1Meyerlemon,peelremovedwithavegetablepeeler(reserveboththefruitandthepeel)
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
1smallonion,cutinto½-inchdice(about1cup)
1stalkgreengarlic,bulbandtendergreenpartsfinelychopped,or1largeclovegarlic,finelyminced
1½cupsarboriorice
½cupdrywhitewineorvermouth
8ouncesfreshcrabmeat
1ounceParmigiano-Reggianocheese,finelygrated(about½cup)
1tablespooncoarselychoppedfreshtarragon,plusadditionalforgarnish
¼cupcrèmefraîche
¼cupfinelymincedfreshchives
Inalargesaucepanovermediumheat,bringthebrothtoasimmer.Addthelemonpeelandremovethepanfromtheheat.Coverandsetaside.
Inaheavy-bottomedpanovermedium-lowheat,meltthebutter.Whenthebutterisfoamy,addtheoilandonionandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionissoftandtranslucent,about5minutes.Increasetheheattomedium-high,addthegarlicandrice,andstiruntilthericesmellsslightlytoasty,about4minutes.Addthewineandsimmer,stirringoccasionally,untilitisreducedtoaglaze,about5minutes.Add1cupofthewarmbroth,stirtocoverthegrains,andsimmer,stirringfrequently,untilthebrothisalmostentirelyabsorbedbeforeaddingmore.Repeatwhilecontinuingtostiruntilonlyabout½cupofthebrothremains,orthericeiscreamyandcookedthrough,about45minutes.Reservethebroth.
Removethepeelfromthebrothandfinelyminceit.Sectionthelemonandfinelychopthepulp,removinganyseeds.Stirthepeelandpulpintothericeandcookuntiltheyarewarmedthrough,about3minutes.Stirinthecrabmeat,cheese,andtarragon,addinga
littlebitofbrothifnecessarytoloosentherisotto.Whenthecheeseismeltedandthecrabiswelldistributedandwarm,afterabout3minutes,stirinthecrèmefraîche.Serveimmediately,garnishedwiththechivesandtarragonleaves.
cedarplank–grilledsalmonwithlemonsIlearnedthistechniqueforplankedsalmonfromchefandrestaurateurVitalyPaley,whenIworkedonThePaley’sPlaceCookbook.Recipesforcookingonwoodplanksoftencallforsoakingtheboardfirst,topreventitfromigniting.Withthismethod,youwanttheplanktocatchfireimmediately.Atangleofthinlyslicedspringvegetables,lemons,anddillflavorsthesalmonbeneathitandprotectsthefishfromburning.Theresultisawonderfullysmoky,moistpieceoffishunderablanketofslightlycrunchy,lightlycharredvegetables.Notethatamandolinworksbestforslicingthevegetablesandlemon,butifyoudon’thaveone,justslicethemasthinlyaspossible.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
¼cuplightbrownsugar
3tablespoonskoshersalt
½choppedfreshdill,divided
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
1(2-pound)salmonfillet,or6(5½-ounce)centercutfillets,skinon
1(6-by-15-inch)cedarplank,orwhateversizeaccommodatesthelengthandwidthofyourfish
5tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil,divided,plusadditionalforbrushingtheplank
2lemons,thinlysliced
1smallspringorsweetonion,thinlysliced
1smallfennelbulb,thinlysliced
¼cuplightlypackedfennelfronds,coarselychopped
Inasmallbowl,combinethesugar,salt,¼cupofthedill,andthezest.Patthesalmondrywithapapertowelandarrangeitinashallowglassbakingdishandcoatalloverwiththerub.Coverandrefrigeratefor2hours.
Preheatagasgrillforhighheat,about450degreesF,orprepareacharcoalgrillfordirect-heatcookingoverred-hotcoals.Brushtheplankgenerouslywithoilonbothsides.Layabouttwo-thirdsoftheslicedlemonsontheplankinasinglelayer.
Halvetheremainingslicedlemonsandaddthemtoamediumbowlwiththeonionandfennel.Add2tablespoonsoftheoilanduseyourhandstotosstheingredientsandcoatthem.Addtheremaining¼cupdill,thefennelfronds,andasmallpinchofsalt.
Arrangethesalmonontheplankoverthelemons.Moundthevegetablemixtureonthetopandaroundthesidesofthefish,coveringtheflesh.Drizzletheremaining3tablespoonsoilontop.Placetheplankonthegrill;itshouldbehotenoughtocausetheplanktoignite.Lettheplankburnaroundthefish(thelemonsandvegetableswillpreventthesalmonfromburning)andclosethelid.Continuetocookuntilthethickestpartofthefilletregisters130to135degreesFonaninstant-readthermometer,about15minutesdependingonthethickness.
grilledflanksteakwithcharredlemonchimichurri
grilledflanksteakwithcharredlemonchimichurriChimichurriisArgentina’snationalsteaksauce.Astapleinthecountry’sparrillas(steakhouses),thesilkygreensaucecanbeassimpleasoliveoilflavoredwithdriedoregano,redpepperflakes,andsalt,oramoreelaboratecombinationofherbs,spices,andgarlic.Myversionincludesfinelychoppedslicesofgrilledlemonforapleasanthitofacidityandtexture.Thetangysauceisagoodaccompanimenttothickersteaks,chicken,andfish,aslongastheyaregrilled.Withoutthesmokychar,whateversitsunderneaththeboldlyflavoredcondimentisovershadowed.Notethatthechimichurrineedstositforatleasttwohoursanduptoovernightfortheflavorstodevelop.
MAKES4SERVINGS
FORTHECHIMICHURRI:
1smalllemon
1smalljalapeño
½cupextra-virginoliveoil,plusadditionalfortossingingredientsandoilingthegrill
1½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided
1cuplightlypackedflat-leafparsleyleaves
1cuplightlypackedfreshcilantroleaves
3tablespoonsfreshoreganoleaves
2clovesgarlic,coarselychopped
1tablespooncoarselychoppedshallot
1tablespoonwhitewinevinegar
..........
1flankskirtorflatironsteak(about1½pounds)
Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
Tomakethechimichurri,trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemon,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows.Cutthelemoninto¼-inch-thickslicesandputtheminasmallbowlwiththejalapeño.Tosswithalittlebitofoiland¼teaspoonofthesalt,andgrillorbroiluntillightlycharred.Putthelemonslicesandjalapeñobackinthebowlandcoverwithaplateorplasticwrap.Thesteamwillcausethemtocollapseslightly,makingtheskinofthejalapeñoeasytoremove.
Peelandseedthejalapeño(leavesomeseedsandthemembraneifyouwantaspicykick).Removeanyseedsfromthelemonslices.Putbothingredientsinthebowlofafoodprocessorandpulseseveraltimestocoarselychop.
Addtheremaining1¼teaspoonssalt,theparsley,cilantro,oregano,garlic,shallot,andvinegar.Pulsetheingredientsinshortbursts,tochopandcombinethemwithoutcreatingtoofineapuree.Withthemotorrunning,drizzleintheoil.Removethesaucetoamedium
bowlandletitsitforatleast2hoursoruptoovernight.Tasteforsaltbeforeserving,addingmoreifnecessary.
Patthesteakdrywithapapertowelandseasonitgenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Preheatagasgrillforhighheat,about450degreesF,orprepareacharcoalgrillfordirect-heatcookingoverred-hotcoals.Scrapethegratecleanandlightlyoilit.Whenthegrillishot,laythesteakonthegrate.Forraretomediumrare,cookfor3minutesononeside,flipthesteak,andcookforanadditional3minutesontheotherside(thismayvary,dependingonthesizeandthicknessofthesteak).Removethesteakfromthegrillandletitrestforatleast5minutesbeforethinlyslicingitagainstthegrain.
Toserve,laytheslicesonaplatter,drizzlethemwithanyjuicesleftoverfromslicing,andspoonsomechimichurrioverthetop.Serveimmediatelyandpasstheremainingchimichurri.
braisedbeefwithpreservedlemonsandharissaPreservedlemonsareanindispensableingredientintheMoroccankitchen.Theyfindtheirwayintofragranttaginesmadewithlamb,chicken,andbeef,aswellasfishandevensalads.WhenIhavetime,Iliketomakethisbraiselikeapotroast,usingacutofbeefontheboneforextraflavor.Abonelesscutorstewmeatworksbeautifullytooandcooksabitmorequickly.Ifyouplanahead,thistastesbettereverydayitsits,theharissa,aNorthAfricanchilepaste,mellowingasitblendswiththeotherflavors.ServeitwithToastedCauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds.Youcanfindharissaatmostwell-stockedgroceriesornaturalmarkets.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
1(3-pound)bone-inchuckroast,or2poundsstewmeat
Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Imediumonion,cutintolargedice
1PreservedLemonorstore-bought,rinsedandfinelychopped(peelonly)
3clovesgarlic,finelychopped
1½teaspoonsrasalhanout(seenote)
1teaspooncuminseeds,coarselyground
1teaspooncorianderseeds,coarselyground
1to3tablespoonsharissa,dependingonyourpreferredheatlevel
3cupsbeefstockorvegetablebroth
2sprigsfreshthyme
1bayleaf
1cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedflat-leafparsleyleaves
½cuplightlypacked,coarselychoppedcilantroleaves
Preheattheovento325degreesF.
Patthemeatdrywithapapertowelandseasonwellwithsaltandpepper.InaDutchovenorheavy,ovenproofpanwithalid,warmtheoilovermedium-highheat.Addthemeatandsearitfor3to4minutesoneachsideforachuckroast,orbrownthemeatonallsidesforstewmeat.Becarefulnottocrowdthepan,browningin2batchesifnecessary.
Removethebrownedbeeffromthepantoalargebowl.Addtheoniontothepanandcook,stirringfrequentlytoscrapeupthebrownbitsonthebottom.After3or4minutes,orwhentheonionhassoftenedslightly,addthelemon,garlic,rasalhanout,cumin,coriander,andharissa.Continuetocookforafewminutes,untiltheingredientsarearomatic.
Putthemeatbackinthepan,alongwithanyjuicesinthebowl.Addthestock,thyme,and
bayleaf,andbringthemixturetoaboil.Carefullyremovethepanfromtheheat,coveritwiththelid,andputitintheoven.
Cookthebeeffor2hours(forstewmeat)or3to3½hoursforalarger,bone-incut.Checkthelevelofthestockoccasionally,addingalittlebitofwaterifthelevelisloworthepanormeatseemsdry.Themeatisreadywhenitismeltinglytenderandhasfallenoffthebone.Toserve,seasontotastewithadditionalsaltandpepper,andaddtheparsleyandcilantro.
NOTE:RasalhanoutisaNorthAfricanspiceblend.Finditonlineandatwell-stockedgroceriesorMiddleEasternmarkets.Tomakeyourown,lightlytoastandgrind1½teaspoonscorianderseeds,¾teaspooncuminseeds,and½teaspoonredpepperflakes.Add1¼teaspoonsgroundcinnamon,1teaspoonsweetpaprika,and½teaspooneachofgroundcardamom,groundginger,andturmeric.
toastedbreadandchickensaladwithroastedlemon-shallotvinaigrette
toastedbreadandchickensaladwithroastedlemon-shallotvinaigrette
Ifthisrecipeseemsfamiliar,perhapsyoutooareafanofthelegendarybrick-ovenroastedchickenwithbreadsaladservedatSanFrancisco’sZuniCafé.Thatsimpleyetindescribablysatisfyingdishinspiredthissalad,rightdowntothecurrants,whichroundoutthesalad’sflavorswiththeirsweetness.Duringthesummer,trytinysweetcherrytomatoes,orroastedgrapesinthefall.
Iliketomakeadoublebatchofthisvinaigrettesothere’splentyleftovertoenjoyonsaladgreens,potatoes,grilledfish,andslicedtomatoes.
MAKES4TO6SERVINGS
FORTHEVINAIGRETTE:
1lemon,halved
8ouncesshallots,peeled,halvediflarge
3largeclovesgarlic,unpeeled
¾cupextra-virginoliveoil,divided
4sprigsfreshthyme,divided
2½teaspoonskoshersalt,divided
Juiceof1lemon
..........
12ouncespeasant-style,rusticbread,roughlytorninto1-inchpieces(about5cups)
3tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil
Freshlygroundblackpepper
4cupsleftoverroastchicken,shreddedorcutintobite-sizepieces
3tablespoonscurrants,plumpedinwarmwaterfor10minutesanddrained
4cupslightlypackedpepperygreens,suchasarugula,watercress,orsmallredmustardgreens
Preheattheovento400degreesF.
Tomakethevinaigrette,inamediumbowl,combinethelemonhalveswiththeshallotsandgarlic.Tossthemwellwith¼cupoftheoil,2sprigsofthethyme,and1teaspoonofthesaltandtransferthemtoabakingdish.Turnthelemonscutsidedownanddistributetheingredientsinasinglelayer.Coverthepanwithaluminumfoilandroast,stirringoccasionally,untiltheshallotsaresoftandcaramelized,45to55minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandsetasidetocool.
Increasetheoventemperatureto425degreesF.Tossthebreadwiththeoilandseasontotastewithsaltandpepper.Arrangethebreadonabakingsheetinasinglelayerandtoastfor10to12minutes,oruntillightlygoldenbrownandstillslightlychewy.Leavetheoven
onaftertoastingthebread.
Meanwhile,seedandcoarselychopthepulpfromtheroastedlemonhalves,discardingthepeel.Trimtherootendsfromtheshallots,andpeelthegarlic.Addthemalltoablender,alongwiththeremaining1½teaspoonssalt,thelemonjuice,andanyjuicesleftinthebakingdish.Blenduntilsmoothand,withtheblenderrunning,slowlydrizzleintheremaining½cupoiluntilthemixtureisemulsified.Coarselychopthethymeleavesfromtheremainingsprigsandaddthemtotheblender.Pulseagaintocombine,andseasontotastewithpepper.
Inalargebowl,tossthechickenwithenoughvinaigrettetomoistenit.Addthetoastedbreadandmorevinaigrette,untileverythingislightlycoated.Spreadthecontentsofthebowlinasinglelayeronabakingsheetandplaceintheovenbrieflytowarmthrough,about4minutes.
Removethepanfromtheoven,andturnthebreadandchickenintoaservingbowlorplatter,alongwiththecurrantsandgreens.Tosswelltocombine,addingmorevinaigrettetotaste.
lemonparmesanchickensoupwithherbeddumplingsAddinghardcheeserindstostockisanItaliantrickformakingrichandunbelievablydeliciousbasesforsoupandrisotto.Coupledwithlemon,chicken,andpillowydumplingsfullofherbs,lemonzest,andmorecheese,thesoupistransformedintoasatisfyingmeal.MakeitinawidepotorDutchoventhatcanaccommodateabigbatchofdumplings;almosteveryonewillaskforseconds.
MAKES8SERVINGS
1(4to4½pound)pasturedchicken
5carrots,divided
2largeleeks(about1pound),wellrinsed
2clovesgarlic,smashed
2stalkscelery,cutinto2-inchpieces
1smallonion,peeledandhalved
4sprigsfreshthyme
2bayleaves
2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns
Koshersaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper
1tablespoonunsaltedbutter
1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil
4longstripslemonzest,removedwithavegetablepeeler
1mediumParmigiano-Reggianocheeserind(about6ounces)
FORTHEDUMPLINGS:
2cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
2teaspoonsbakingpowder
2teaspoonskoshersalt
1teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper
2teaspoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest
¼cupcoarselychoppedsoftfreshherbs,suchastarragon,chives,andparsley
½ounceParmigiano-Reggianocheese,finelygrated(about¼cup)
1cupwholemilk
2eggs,lightlybeaten
¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooledslightly
Putthechickeninalargestockpotwith2ofthecarrots,cutintolargechunks;thegreenpartsoftheleeks,cutinto1-inchpieces;andthegarlic,celery,onion,thyme,bayleaves,
andpeppercorns.Addenoughcoldwatertocoverthechicken.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,reducetheheattoasimmer,andcookgentlyfor45minutesto1hour,untilthechickenistender.
Transferthechickentoabowltocool.Whenthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,gentlypullitapartandremovetheskinandbonesfromhalfofthebird,e.g.athigh,alegandwing,andhalfofthebreastmeat.Discardtheskin,addthebonesbacktothestockpot,andreservethechickenforthesoup.Refrigeratetherestofthechickeninanairtightcontainerforanotheruse,suchasToastedBreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette.Continuetosimmerthestockuntilitisreducedbyone-third,about1hour.Strainitthroughafine-meshsieveintoalargebowl,discardingthesolids.Youshouldhave8to10cupsofstock.Seasonitwithsaltandpeppertotaste.
InawidepotorDutchovenovermedium-highheat,warmthebutterandoil.Addthewhitesoftheleeks,halvedandcutinto½-inchpieces,andtheremainingcarrots,cutinto¼-inch-thickcoins.Sautéforseveralminutesbeforeaddingthezest,rinds,andstock.Reducetheheatandgentlysimmerthesoupwhileyoumakethedumplings.
Tomakethedumplings,inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,salt,pepper,zest,herbs,andcheese.Makeawellinthecenter,andaddthemilkandeggs,whiskingthemtogetherandincorporatingtheflourasyougo.Switchtoawoodenspoonandslowlystirinthebutteruntiltheingredientsarewellincorporated.Atthispoint,thedoughshouldbelooseenoughtostireasily,butnotmushy.Scrapethesidesofthebowlwithaspatulawhilemixing,toincorporateallofthedryingredients.Resisttheurgetoovermix,eventhoughthedoughlookslikeawetshaggymass.
Using2teaspoons,formthedoughintodumplings,loweringthemdirectlyintothesimmeringsoupallatonce.Coverthepotandsimmerthedumplingsfor5minutesbeforecheckingtoseeifthey’vefloatedtothetop.Ifso,turnthemover,addthereservedchicken,andcontinuetosimmeruntilthedumplingsarecookedthroughandthechickeniswarmedthrough,about10minutes.Serveimmediatelyandcontinuetoenjoyleftoversforthenext2to3days.
sweets
MiniLemonMeringueWhoopiePieswithLemonCurdFilling
BestLemonBars
LemonandPoppySeedParfaitwithStrawberries
Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmondMacarons
LemonCrinkleCookies
LemonButtermilkPannaCottawithLemonVerbenaandBlackberries
AffogatowithLimoncelloIceCream
LemonCrèmeBruléewithLavenderandHoney
ToastedCoconut–LemonTart
MeyerLemonandtangerineOliveOilCake
minilemonmeringuewhoopiepieswithlemoncurdfilling
minilemonmeringuewhoopiepieswithlemoncurdfilling
Inspiredbylemonmeringuepie,Iaddedbrownsugartothesemeringuestoapproximatethepie’stoastyflavor.AhalfrecipeofLemonCurdwillleaveyouwiththreeeggwhites,justtherightamountforabatchofthesemeringues.
Afterassemblingthem,Irecommendlettingthecookiessitforseveralhoursatroomtemperatureor—betteryet—overnightafterassemblingthem;thetextureapproximatessomethingbetweenthepiethatinspiresthemandthespongy,cakeliketextureofatraditionalwhoopiepie.Anditonlygetsbetter,ifyoucanmakethemlast.
MAKESABOUT2DOZENWHOOPIEPIES
½cupgranulatedsugar
¼cuplightbrownsugar
3eggwhites,atroomtemperature
¼teaspooncreamoftartar
Pinchkoshersalt
½teaspoonvanillaextract
⅔cup(½recipe)LemonCurd
Preheattheovento200degreesF.Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.
Putthegranulatedandbrownsugarsinthebowlofafoodprocessor.Pulseinshortburstsuntiltheyarewellincorporatedandfinelyground.Setaside.
Puttheeggwhitesintheclean,drybowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oraclean,drybowlthatcanbeusedwithanelectrichandheldmixer.(Ifthere’sevenaspeckofeggyolk,oil,orwaterinthebowlorthewhites,theywon’tstiffen.)Beginmixingonmedium-lowspeed.Whenthewhitesarefrothy,addthecreamoftartarandsaltandcontinuebeatingforabout2minutes,oruntilthewhitesarethickandfoamy.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandaddthesugarmixtureslowly,about1tablespoonatatime.Whenallthesugarisincorporated,increasethespeedtohigh,whippinguntilstiff,shinypeaksform,about10minutes.Addthevanillaandbeatuntiljustblended,about5seconds.
Spoonthemeringueintoapastrybagfittedwithaplain½-inchtiporaziplockbagwithonecornersnippedoff.Holdthebagperpendiculartothebakingsheetsandpipesmallflatdisks,about1¼inchesindiameterand¼inchhigh.Bakeuntilthemeringuesaredryandcrisp,about1½hours.Turnofftheovenandleavethemtheretocoolcompletely.
Toassemblethecookies,arrangehalfofthemeringuesflatsideuponabakingsheet.Putthechilledcurdinacleanpastrybagfittedwithaplain½-inchtiporanotherziplockbagwithonecornersnippedoff.Pipeabout2teaspoonsontoeachmeringue.Gentlypresstheremainingmeringuesflatsidedownontothecurd.Astheysit,themeringueswillbecome
softerandchewier.
bestlemonbarsLemonloverslovelemonbars,andtherearelotsofrecipestoproveit.Forme,thebestlemonbarhasatopping-to-crustratioof2:1,withafatlayerofcurdliketoppingthathoversbetweentartandsweet.Ifthat’syourdefinitionofaperfectlemonbartoo,looknofurther.Reducethetimebetweencoolingandconsumptionbyputtingthepaninthefreezerforthirtyminutesafterbaking.Thesebarscutbeautifullyinasemifrozenstate.
MAKES2DOZEN(1½-BY-3-INCH)BARS
FORTHECRUST:
2½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
¾teaspoonkoshersalt
1cup(2sticks)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
¾cupsugar
2teaspoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest
1teaspoonvanillaextract
FORTHETOPPING:
6eggs,lightlybeaten
2cupssugar
¼cupplus1tablespoonunbleachedall-purposeflour
1cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from4mediumlemons)
1tablespoonplus2teaspoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2smalllemons)
½cupwholemilk
½teaspoonkoshersalt
..........
Confectioners’sugar,forserving
Preheattheovento350degreesF.Linea9-by-13-inchbakingpanwithfoilandlightlycoatthefoilwithcookingsprayormeltedbutter.
Tomakethecrust,inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheflourandsalt.Usingastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachmentorahandheldelectricmixer,beatthebutterandsugaronmediumspeeduntilitislightincolorandfluffy,about3minutes.Addthezestandvanillaandmixtoincorporate.Reducetolowspeedandaddtheflourmixture,usingaspatulatoscrapethebottomandsidesofthebowlseveraltimes.Stopmixingwhentheingredientsarefullyincorporatedbutstillcrumbly.Donotovermixorthecrustwillbedifficulttodistributeinthepan.
Pourthecrumblydoughintothepreparedpananduseyourfingerstodistributeitevenlyoverthebottom,lightlypressingitdownandmakingsuretobringthedoughupthesidesofthepanslightly,tocontainthetopping.Bakeuntiltoastybrown,about25minutes.
Meanwhile,makethetopping.Inalargebowl,whisktheeggswiththesugarandflour.Stirinthelemonjuiceandzest,milk,andsalt.
Whenthecrustisdone,reducetheoventemperatureto325degreesF.Stirthetoppingingredientstogetheragainbeforepouringthetoppingoverthewarmcrust.Placethepaninthemiddleoftheovenandbakeuntilthetoppingfeelsfirmwhenlightlytouched,about20minutes.Coolthepanonawirerackforatleast30minutesortoroomtemperaturebeforecuttingthebars.Dustgenerouslywithconfectioners’sugarbeforeserving.
lemonandpoppyseedparfaitwithstrawberries
lemonandpoppyseedparfaitwithstrawberriesThisparfaitisaplayontheclassicBritishdessert,Etonmess.Ifoldpoppyseed–speckledmeringuesintowhippedcreamstreakedwithribbonsoflemoncurd,thenfreezethewhole“mess.”Thesticky,chewymagicthathappenswhenmeringueandcreamarefrozenisfurtherimprovedwithstrawberriesandfreshmint.Notethatyouneedtomakethecurdbeforethemeringues,soithastimetocool.
MAKES6TO8SERVINGS
FORTHEMERINGUES:
¾cupsuperfinesugar
3eggwhites,atroomtemperature
Pinchkoshersalt
1tablespoonpoppyseeds
..........
2cupsheavycream
⅔cup(½recipe)LemonCurd
2pintsfreshstrawberries,hulledandhalvedorquartered
3tablespoonssugar
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
3to4freshmintleaves
Preheattheovento200degreesF.Putthesugarinapietinorsmallpanwithsidesandwarmintheovenfor10minutes.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaperandsetaside.
Tomakethemeringues,placetheeggwhitesintheclean,drybowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oraclean,drybowlthatcanbeusedwithanelectrichandheldmixer.(Ifthere’sevenaspeckofeggyolk,oil,orwaterinthebowlorthewhites,theywon’tstiffen.)Beginmixingonmedium-lowspeed,addingapinchofsaltwhenthewhitesarefrothy.Continuebeatingforabout2minutes,oruntilthewhitesarethickandfoamy.Increasethespeedtomedium-highandbeginaddingthewarmsugarslowly,1tablespoonatatime.Whenallthesugarisincorporated,increasethespeedtohigh,whippinguntilstiff,shinypeaksform,about10minutes.Withaspatula,gentlyfoldinthepoppyseeds.
Dollopthemeringueontothepreparedbakingsheet,making6moundsandusingthebackofaspoontoflattenthetopsslightly.Bakethemeringuesuntildryandcrisp,about1½hours.Washanddrythemixerbowlandwhiskandplacethemintherefrigerator.
Linea9-by-5-by-3-inchloafpanwithplasticwrap,leavingenoughoverhangonallsidestocoverthetopoftheparfaitandmakeliftingitoutofthepaneasier.Setaside.
Toassembletheparfait,addthecreamtothechilledmixerbowl,oruseawhiskwitha
chilled,nonreactivebowl.Whipthecreamonmediumspeed,orbyhand,untilsoftpeaksform.Usingaspatula,foldinthelemoncurdwithoutcombiningitcompletely,justuntilthemixtureisstreaky.Breakthemeringuesintochunksranginginsizefromlargecrumbstowalnuthalves.Foldthemintothecream,stirringgentlytodistribute.Spoonthemixtureintothepreparedpan,coverthetopwithplasticwrap,andfreezeforatleast4hoursbeforeserving.
Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,tossthestrawberrieswiththesugarandlemonjuiceandallowthemtositfor30minutes,oruntilasyrupforms.Cutthemintleaveslengthwiseintothinstripsandtosswiththeberries;thereshouldbeonlyasuggestionofmint,sokeeptheamountminimal.
Toserve,usetheoverhangingplasticwraptolifttheparfaitoutofthepan.Cuttheparfaitinto1to1½-inchslicesandspoontheberriesoverthetop.
VARIATION:Substitute2teaspoonsrosewaterforthepoppyseeds,andraspberriesforthestrawberries.Garnisheachplatewithafewrosepetals.
chocolate-filledlemonalmondmacaronsIftheworldweredividedintolemonpeopleandchocolatepeople,I’djointhelemonteam.Ifyou’reonthefenceordon’twanttochoose,thisisthecookieforyou.Lemonandchocolateseemlikeanunlikelycombinationuntilyoutrythemtogether.YoucanalsosandwichLemonCurdbetweenthesemacaronsorwhitechocolateganacheflavoredwithatouchoforangeflowerwater.
MAKES2DOZENMACARONS
1½cupsconfectioners’sugar
1⅓cupsalmondflour
1tablespoonfinelygratedlemonzest
4eggwhites,atroomtemperature
Pinchofcreamoftartar
¼cupgranulatedsugar
FORTHEFILLING:
½cupplus2tablespoonsheavycream
2teaspoonscoarselychoppedlemonzest
Pinchkoshersalt
6ouncesbittersweetchocolate,finelychopped(about1cup)
1tablespoonunsaltedbutter
2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Inamediumbowl,combinetheconfectioners’sugar,flour,andzest,andsetaside.
Intheclean,drybowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oraclean,drybowlthatcanbeusedwithahandheldelectricmixer,beattheeggwhitesonmediumspeeduntilfrothy.Addthecreamoftartarandcontinuetobeatuntilthewhitesholdsoftpeaks.Increasethespeedtomediumhigh,slowlyaddthegranulatedsugar,andbeatuntilthewhitesholdfirm,glossypeaks.Stopbeforetheyarestiffandshiny.
Siftone-thirdoftheflourmixtureoverthewhitesanduseaspatulatogentlyfolditin.Repeatwithhalfoftheremainingflourmixture,mixingtoincorporatebeforeaddingtheremainingflourmixture.Thebattershouldbeloose,butholditsshape.
Spoonthebatterintoapastrybagfittedwithaplain½-inchtiporaziplockbagwithonecornersnippedoff.Holdingthebagperpendiculartothepreparedbakingsheets,pipesmallmounds,about1inchindiameterand¼inchhigh,1inchapart.Letthedoughrestfor20minutes,oruntilthemacaronsarenolongerstickytothetouch.Meanwhile,preheattheovento350degreesF.
Bakethemacaronsfor12to16minutes,rotatingthepanonceduringbaking.Theywill
puff,becomeshiny,andfallveryslightly.Whenfullybaked,theywillbedryandverylightlybrown.Removethepanstoarackandletthecookiescoolcompletelyonthepanswhileyoumakethefilling.
Tomakethefilling,inasmallpanovermediumheat,heatthecreamwiththezestandsalttojustbelowtheboilingpoint.Putthechocolateinasmallbowlandpourthehotcreamoverit.Letitforsitseveralminutestomeltthechocolatebeforeaddingthebutterandstirringuntilsmooth.Stirinthelemonjuice.
Toassemblethecookies,turnhalfofthemupsidedown.Useanoffsetspatulaorsmallknifetospreadeachhalfwithabout2teaspoonsofthefilling,leavingtheedgesuncovered.Topwiththeremainingcookies,pressingtogethergentlysothefillingspreadstotheedgesofthesandwich.
lemoncrinklecookiesOnceuponatime,thesecookieswerechocolate.WemadethematWildwood,therestaurant(nowclosed)thatbroughtmetoPortland.Afanoftheirchewytexture,Ithoughtitwouldbefuntomaketheminotherflavors.Sincecreatingthechocolateversionofarecipeisoftenaseasyassubstitutingcocoapowderforsomeoftheflour,Ididthereverse,removingsomeofthecocoaandreplacingitwiththesameweightinflour.Anditworked!Aquickrollinpowderedsugarbeforebakinggivesthesecookiestheircrinkly,cracklyappearance.
MAKES4DOZENCOOKIES
1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
¼cupcornstarch
1½teaspoonsbakingpowder
½teaspoonkoshersalt
1cupgranulatedsugar
2tablespoonsfinelygratedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)
½cup(1stick)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature
2eggs
¼teaspoonlemonextract(optional)
½cupconfectioners’sugar
Line2bakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.Inasmallbowl,whisktogethertheflour,cornstarch,bakingpowder,andsalt.Setaside.
Inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,orabowlyou’dusewithahandheldelectricmixer,combinethesugarandzest.Usingyourfingers,rubthezestwiththesugaruntilitisveryaromatic.Addthebutterandbeatonmediumspeeduntilwellincorporated.Usingaspatula,scrapethebottomandsidesofthebowl,thenincreasethespeedtomediumhigh,mixinguntilthebutterandsugararelightincolorandfluffy.Addtheeggsoneatatime,mixingwellbetweenadditions.Addthelemonextract,followedbythedryingredients.Mixonlowspeedjustuntilblended,withoutanyflourystreaks.
Preheattheovento325degreesF.Puttheconfectioners’sugarinashallow,widebowl,orapieplate.Useatablespoontoscoopupaspoonfulofdoughaboutthesizeofsmallcherrytomato.Dustyourhandswithconfectioners’sugar,formthedoughintoaball,androlltheballinthesugaruntilwellcovered.Placetheballsonthepreparedbakingsheets,leaving1inchonallsides.
Bakethecookiesfor5minutes,rotatethepan,andbakeforanother5to7minutes.Whentheyareready,thecookieswillbesetaroundtheedgesandslightlypuffed.Thecenterswillbesoft,butnotshiny.Placethebakingsheetsonaracktocoolfor15minutes,thenmovethecookiesfromthepansontotheracktocoolcompletely.
VARIATION:Ifyouwanttotrytheoriginal,substitute⅔cupunsweetenedDutch-processedcocoapowderfor½cupoftheall-purposeflourand2tablespoonsofthecornstarch.
lemonbuttermilkpannacottawithlemonverbenaandblackberries
lemonbuttermilkpannacottawithlemonverbenaandblackberries
Pannacottaisasimpleyetelegantdessert.Acreamycanvasforcreativecombinationsofflavorsandtextures,thisversionisredolentoflemonandtangybuttermilk.MyfavoriteseasonalfruitsforpairingwithsilkypannacottaincludespringstrawberriesandsweetRainiercherries,summercaneberriesandstonefruit,andfallplumsandfigs.
Notethatthepannacottaneedstofirmupforleastsixhours,orovernight,somakethisdishthedaybeforeyou’dliketoserveit.Ifyoudon’tplantoturnitoutofthedish,youcaneatthepannacottasooner,aftertwotothreehours.
MAKES8SERVINGS
2⅓cupsheavycream
1cupsugar,divided
2tablespoonszest,removedwithazester(from2mediumlemons)
¼cuplightlypackedlemonverbenaleaves,plus8forgarnish
1tablespoonplus1teaspoonpowderedgelatin
1⅓cupsbuttermilk
4cupsfreshblackberries(about2pints)
1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
Lightlycoat8(6-ounce)ramekinsordisheswithaneutral-flavoredoilsuchascanolaandsetaside.
Inalargesaucepanovermediumheat,combinethecream,½cupplus2tablespoonsofthesugar,thezest,andlemonverbena,stirringuntilthesugardissolves.Removethepanfromtheheat,cover,andinfusethecreamfor30minutes,oruntilthelemonflavorsarepronounced.Inasmallbowl,softenthegelatinin1tablespoonofcoldwaterforabout5minutes,thenstiritintothewarmcream.Whenthegelatinhasdissolved,addthebuttermilkandstirwell.Strainthemixturethroughafine-meshsieveintoacontainerwithaspout,suchasalargemeasuringcup,andpouritintothepreparedramekins.Coverthemwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateuntilfirm,atleast6hours,orovernight.
Beforeserving,puttheremaining6tablespoonsofsugarinablenderorfoodprocessorwith1cupoftheblackberriesandpuree.Strainthepureethroughafine-meshsieveandcombinewiththeremainingberriesandlemonjuice,addingmorejuicetotaste.
Toserve,unmoldtheramekinsbyrunningathinparingknifearoundthesidesordippingtheramekininwarmwatertoloosenthepannacotta.Putasmallplateorbowlovertheramekin,flipitover,andshakevigorouslytoloosen.Spoontheblackberriesandsaucearoundthebaseofthepannacotta.Garnishthetopwithalemonverbenaleaf.
Lemonverbenacanbefoundatsomefarmers’markets,butit’seasytogrowinapotathome.Harvestany
remainingleavesinthefalltodryfortea.Lemonthymeandlavendermakegoodsubstitutes,oryoucanskipthe
herbalelementaltogether.
affogatowithlimoncelloicecreamThisdecadent,sippableadultdessertisariffonanItalianfavorite:it’sessentiallyanaffogato(theItalianwordfor“drowned”),butinsteadofpouringashotofespressooverthemascarpone-enrichedlimoncelloicecream,Icallforshakingthetwotogetherinacocktailshaker.Serveitwithaspoonandastraw,forslurpingupthedregs.
MAKES6SERVINGS
2cupsheavycream
¾cupwholemilk
¾cupsugar,divided
½teaspoonkoshersalt
Peelof1lemon
5eggyolks
¼cupmascarponecheese
½teaspoonvanillaextract
⅓cupHomemadeLimoncelloorstore-bought
6shotsespresso,atroomtemperature
6lemontwists,forgarnish
Inamediumsaucepanovermedium-highheat,bringthecreamandmilktoasimmerwith½cupofthesugar,thesalt,andlemonpeel.Removethepanfromtheheat,cover,andsetasidefor20minutestoinfuse.
Meanwhile,inamediumnonreactivebowl,whisktheyolkswiththeremaining¼cupofsugaruntilsmooth,andsetaside.Prepareanicebathforthecustardbyfillingalargebowlhalfwaywithiceandcoldwaterandsettingitinthesink.
Whenthecreammixtureisinfused,returnittothestoveovermediumheatuntilitishot,butnotboiling.Slowlyaddaladlefulofcreamtotheyolkmixture,whiskingconstantlyuntilsmooth(thisiscalledtemperingtheyolks,atechniqueusedtopreventthemfromcurdlingwhentheyarecombinedwiththehotmilk).Repeatonemoretime,thenpourtheyolkmixturebackintothesaucepanovermedium-lowheat.Stirthecustardconstantlywithawoodenspoonorheatproofspatula,scrapingthebottomasyoustir,untilitreaches170degreesFonaninstant-readthermometerandcoatsthespoonorspatula.Removethepanfromtheheatandwhiskinthemascarponeandvanilla.Pourthecustardthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleanmediumbowl.Placethebowlinthepreparedicebathtocool,andchillintherefrigeratoruntilcompletelycold,atleast3hours,oruptoovernight.
Whenthecustardiscold,whiskinthelimoncelloandfreezethemixtureinanicecreammakeraccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.
Toserve,placeascoopoficecreaminacocktailshakeroraglassjarwithalid.Addashotofespressoandshakevigorously.Pourintoacocktailglassandgarnishwithalemon
twist.Repeatforeachserving.
lemoncrèmebruléewithlavenderandhoney
lemoncrèmebruléewithlavenderandhoneyIknowI’mnotaloneinfindingchildlikepleasureintheactofbreakingthroughthecrispsugarcrustofacrèmebrulée.Here,lemonandlavenderperfumethehoney-sweetenedcustardunderthebruléedtop,creatingatriedandtruetrioofflavors.Lavendercanbepotent,anddifferentvarietieshavedifferentstrengths;besuretotastethecreamasitinfuses,sothattheflavorsarebalanced.
MAKES6SERVINGS
2cupsheavycream
2tablespoonshoney
3tablespoonscoarselychoppedlemonzest(from3mediumlemons)
2tablespoonsfreshlavenderflowers(or4teaspoonsdried)
⅛teaspoonsalt
3yolks
1egg
¼cupgranulatedsugar,plusadditionalforcaramelizing
1teaspoonvanillaextract
Preheattheovento300degreesF.
Inaheavysaucepan,combinethecream,honey,lemonzest,lavender,andsalt.Bringthemixturetoagentlesimmerovermediumheat,cover,andremovefromtheheat.Steep10minutesandtastethecreamtodetermineifthelemonandlavenderflavorsarebalancedandtoyourliking.Whentheyare,strainthemixture,discardthezestandlavender,andreturnthecreamtothepot.Ifithascooledcompletely,warmthecreamovermediumheatuntilitishot,butnotboiling.
Meanwhile,inamediumbowl,whisktheyolksandeggtogetherwiththesugaruntilsmooth.Slowlyaddsomeofthewarmcreamtotheyolks,about½cupatatime,whiskingconstantlytokeeptheeggsfromcurdling.Afteradding1cupofcream,pourthetemperedyolkmixturebackintothepanwiththeremainingcream.Addthevanillaandstrainthemixtureintoanothercontainertocoolinanicebathforbakinglater,ordivideitbetween6(4-ounce)ramekinsorglasscustardcups.
Arrangethedishesinadeepbakingpanandfillthepanwithenoughhotwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesofthedishes.Putthebakingpanintheovenandbakeuntilthecustardissetaroundedgesandslightlyjigglyincenter,about40minutes.Removethepanfromtheovenandallowthecustardstocoolbeforecoveringwithplasticwrap.Storeintherefrigeratortocoolcompletely,3hourstoovernight.
Justbeforeserving,sprinklethetopofeachcustardwithathin,evencoatingofsugar.Placethedishesunderapreheatedbroilerfor2to3minutes,oruntilthesugarmelts,oruseahand-heldblowtorchtocaramelizethesugar.
toastedcoconut–lemontartWeusedtohavethistartafterEasterdinner.Afternottastingitformanyyears,Iaskedmymomfortherecipe,whichcamefromhersister,myAuntBetty.Itwasn’tasgoodasmymemoryofit—overlysweetandnotnearlylemonyenough.Still,IknewIwantedtoreviveit.Therecipebelowbearslittleresemblancetotheoriginal;it’smuchbetter.Weallagreethatit’stimetoreintroducethetartatthefamilyEastertable,oranyspringcelebration.
Notethatthedoughneedstochillfortwohours,soplanaccordingly.Itcanalsobemadeaheadandrefrigerateduptothreedays.
MAKESONE10-INCHTART
FORTHECRUST:
1¼cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
½cupconfectioners’sugar
2tablespoonscornstarch
¼teaspoonkoshersalt
10tablespoons(1¼sticks)unsaltedbutter,cold,cutintosmallpieces
¼teaspoonvanillaextract
FORTHEFILLING:
1cupsugar
2tablespoonsfinelychoppedlemonzest(from2mediumlemons)
2tablespoonscornstarch
½teaspoonkoshersalt
2eggs
2eggyolks
¼cup(½stick)unsaltedbutter,meltedandcooled
3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
1½cupslightlypackedunsweetened,driedcoconutflakes(alsocalledcoconutchips)
Tomakethecrust,inthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththepaddleattachment,combinetheflour,confectioners’sugar,cornstarch,andsalt.Addthebutterallatonceandmixonlowspeeduntiltheingredientsbegintocometogethertomakeacohesivedough;thiswilltakeabitoftime,aslongas7to10minutes.Justbeforethedoughlookslikeit’sreadytoformaball,addthevanillaandmixtocombine.Shapetheballofdoughintoadisk,wrapitinplasticwrap,andrefrigerateuntilfirm,about2hours.
Onalightlyflouredsurface,rolloutthepastrytomakea12-to13-inchcircle.Fitthedoughintoa10-inchflutedtartpan,prickthedoughalloverwithafork,andfreezeitfor30minutes.Whilethedoughfreezes,preheattheovento350degreesFandplacearack
inthebottomthirdoftheoven.
Placethefrozencrustonabakingsheetandbake,uncovered,forabout15minutes.(There’snoneedtocoverthecrustorusepieweights.)Rotatethepanandbakeforanother10minutes,oruntilthecrustislightlygolden.Placethebakingsheetonaracktocoolthecrustandreducetheoventemperatureto325degreesF.
Whilethecrustcools,makethefilling.Inamediumbowl,combinethesugarandzestanduseyourfingerstorubthetwotogetheruntilthesugarisfragrant.Stirinthecornstarchandsalt.Inaseparatesmallerbowl,whisktheeggswiththeyolks,thenwhiskinthebutterandlemonjuice.Whisktheeggandbuttermixtureintothesugarmixture,beatingvigorouslytocombine.Stirinthecoconut.
Pourthemixtureintothecooledcrust.Bakefor20minutesonthebottomrack,rotatingthepanandkeepinganeyeonthecoconut;ifit’sgettingtoodark,coverthetoplooselywithapieceofaluminumfoil.Bakefor20moreminutes,oruntilthefillingsetsuparoundtheedgesandisslightlyjigglyinthecenter.Cooltoroomtemperaturebeforeserving.
meyerlemonandtangerineoliveoilcakeI’vemadeanoliveoilcakewithwholeorangesformyhusband’sbirthdaylongerthaneitherofuscanremember.HewasborninJanuary,whencitrusfruitisplentiful,andI’veoftenthoughtaboutsubstitutingMeyerlemonsorbloodorangesforthenavelorangesinmyrecipe.Notwantingtomeddlewithtradition,Ionlyrecentlygotaroundtocreatingthisversion.Amash-upofacoupleoffavoritesimplecakerecipes,thisonehascornmeal,whichalsomakesitagoodcandidateforbreakfastinmybook.
MAKESONE10-INCHCAKE
3½cupssugar,divided
2Meyerlemons,preferablyorganic
2smalltangerines
1⅔cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour
1cuppolentaormediumgrindcornmeal
1tablespoonbakingpowder
½teaspoonkoshersalt
4eggs
⅔cupextra-virginoliveoil
Lightlysweetenedwhippedcream,forserving
Inamediumsaucepan,combine2cupsofthesugarwith2cupsofwater.Bringthemixturetoaboilovermedium-highheat.Addthelemonsandtangerinesoncethesugarhasdissolved.(Thefruitsshouldbesubmergedbytwo-thirdsinthesimplesyrup.Iftheyaren’t,addmorewater.)Reducetheheattoasimmer,coverthepan,andgentlypoachthefruitsuntiltheyareverytender,20to30minutes.Transferthemtoaplatetocool.
Preheattheovento350degreesFandlightlyoila10-inchcakepan.Linethebottomwithparchmentpaperandsetaside.
Whenthefruitshavecooled,sliceofftheirends,andquarterthem.Removeanyseedsorlargepiecesofmembrane,addthepulptothebowlofafoodprocessor,andprocessuntilfairlysmooth.Youshouldhaveabout1¼cupspuree.Setaside.
Inasmallbowl,stirtogethertheflour,polenta,bakingpowder,andsalt,andsetaside.
Puttheeggsinthebowlofastandmixerfittedwiththewhiskattachment,oruseahandheldelectricmixeronhighspeedtowhiptheeggsuntiltheyarefoamyandlighterincolor,about2minutes.Withthemixerrunning,slowlyaddtheremaining1½cupssugarandcontinuetowhiponhighspeeduntilthemixtureisthickandcreamywhite,about4minutes.Reducethespeedtomediumanddrizzleintheoil.Addthepureedfruitandmixtocombine.Removethemixingbowlandfoldinone-thirdoftheflourmixture.Whenthebatterissmooth,addtherestoftheflour.Pourthebatterintothepreparedpanandsmooththetopwithaspatula.
Bakeuntilthecakeisdarkgoldenbrownandspringsbackafterbeinglightlypressedinthemiddle,50to60minutes.Letitcoolonarackfor15minutesbeforeremovingitfromthepan.Letitcoolcompletelybeforeslicingandservingwithadollopoflightlysweetenedwhippedcream.
drinks
RoseGeraniumLemonade
StrawberryLemonAguaFrescawithBasil
LemonMintLimonina
HomemadeLimoncello
LemonStickforAdults
Green-and-LemonShots
LemonRosemaryBarleyWater
rosegeraniumlemonade
rosegeraniumlemonadeLemonadefromscratchisalaboroflove,butIassureyouit’sworththeeffort.Thetrickistousethelemonpeelstomakeasyruptoaddtothejuice.Mixtheresultingelixirwithstillorsparklingwaterandpouritalloverice.Consideraddingasplashofvodkaorgin.Notethatthesugarneedstoinfuseovernightforthebestflavor.
MAKESASCANTQUARTOFSYRUPTOYIELD2TO24QUARTSLEMONADE
8mediumlemons
½cuplightlypackedrosegeraniumleaves,(7to10smallleaves)
2cupssuperfinesugar
Rosegeraniumflowers,forgarnish
Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelsofthelemonsinwidestrips,reservingthelemons.Placethestripsina2-quartjaroranonreactive,liddedpitcherwiththerosegeraniumleaves.Addthesugarand,usingamuddlerorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashthepeelsandleaveswiththesugartoreleasetheiressentialoils.Whenthepeelsarecoatedwithsugar,coverthejarandletsitovernightatroomtemperature.Thenextday,thesugarwillbewet,andthecontentswillbesittingslightlylowerinthejar.
Juicethereservedlemons;youshouldgetabout2cupsofjuice.Ifyou’reslightlyshort,addenoughwatertomake2cups.Addthejuicetothesugarandpeels,cover,andshakethejarvigorouslytodissolvethesugarandcombineitwiththelemonjuice.Tastethesyrup.Theflavoroftherosegeraniumshouldbesubtle.Ifitistoyourliking,strainthesyrupthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleanjarandstoreitintherefrigerator.(Foradditionalflavor,addafewmoreleavesandletthejarsitovernightintherefrigeratorbeforestrainingthesyrup.)
Tomakelemonade,pourequalpartssyrupandwaterinatallglass.Takeasipandaddmorewaterorsyruptotaste.Serveoverice,garnishedwithafewflowers.
Rosegeraniumisanold-fashionedflavor,perfectforlemonade.Itcanbedifficulttofindunlessyougrowityourself,orhaveareliablesource.Mostnurseriescarryscentedgeraniums,oryoucangowithadifferentherbaladdition—lavender,basil,lemonverbena,androsemaryareotherfavorites.
strawberrylemonaguafrescawithbasilAguafrescaisoneofthemostinvigoratingwaystoenjoyfreshfruit(andsometimesvegetables)inseason.Pureedripefruit,water,andasmallamountofsweetenerarecombinedwithherbsandlemonorlimejuice,andservedoverice.Iliketouseacombinationofstillandsparklingwater.OccasionallyI’llswapoutthestrawberrieshereforthesameamountofcucumber.
MAKESABOUT2½QUARTSAGUAFRESCA
1lemon
½cupsugar
4cupsripestrawberries,stemmedandhalved(about1pound)
1cuplightlypackedfreshbasilleaves
Usingavegetablepeeler,removethelemonpeelandplacethepeelsinalargenonreactivepitcheror4-quartjarwiththesugar.Usingamuddlerorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashthepeelswiththesugartoreleasetheiressentialoils.Setaside.
Trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemon,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows.Usingasharpparingknife,cutawaythewhitepithandchopthepulpintosmallpieces,removingtheseedsasyougo.
Pureethelemonpulp,strawberries,andbasilleavesinablenderwithenoughwatertoloosenthemixture,about½cup.Strainthroughafine-meshsieveintothepitcherwiththepeelsandsugar,addingatleastasmuchcoldwaterasyouhavepuree,startingwith5cups.Stirtheliquidwiththesugaruntilithasdissolved,taste,andaddmoresugarandwatertotaste.Theaguafrescashouldbelight,refreshing,andbarelysweet.Serveovercrushedice.
lemonmintlimoninaVariationsonthisrefreshingslushieareenjoyedaroundtheglobe,buttheIsraeliversion—thelimonana—seemstobethebestknown.IlearnedaboutthedrinkfrommyfriendNina,whobecameobsessedwithasimilardrinkmadewithlimeswhenshelivedinThailand.Occasionallyshe’dhavethestreetvendorswhomadethemthrowinsomeginger.
ThisdrinkisnamedforNina,wholivesinMumbainow.It’smadewithwhole,peeledlemonsandmint,anessentialherbinIndiancooking.Thetwoarewhirredtogetherinablenderwithcrushediceandgingersimplesyrup,whichiswhatmakesitthelimonina-with-an-i.
MAKES1SERVING
1cupsugar
1-inchknobginger,peeledandcoarselygrated
2smalllemons
⅓cuppackedfreshmintleaves
1½cupscrushediceorabout7icecubes
Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesugarwith1cupofwater.Bringthemixturetoaboilovermedium-highheat,stirringoccasionally.Whenthesugarhasdissolved,addthegingerandremovethepanfromtheheat.Leavethegingerinthesimplesyrupandletitcoolcompletely.Ifyou’reonlymaking1or2limonina,you’llhavesyrupleftover.Useittosweetenhotorcoldtea,oraddasplashtosparklingwaterorlemonade.Itwillkeepseveralweeks.
Meanwhile,trimtheblossomandstemendsofthelemons,removingenoughrindthatthepulpshows.Usingasharpparingknife,cutawaythepeelandwhitepith.Setthepeelasideforanotheruse.Cutthepulpintosmallpieces,removingtheseedsasyougo.
Putthelemonpulpinablenderwiththemint,½cupofthegingersyrup,andsomeofthegratedginger,andtheice.Blenduntilslushy,addingwaterifnecessarytosipthisdrinkthroughastraw.
homemadelimoncelloLimoncelloisaliqueurproducedprimarilyinsouthernItaly,whereSorrentolemonsgrow.Aftersteepingthepeelsinneutralspiritsorvodka,Italiansaddasimplesyrupmadewithvaryingamountsofsugarandwater(ormilk)andcontinuetoagethemixtureinthefreezer.Limoncelloistypicallyservedwellchilled,usuallyafteramealasadigestif.Notethatthelimoncellowillneedtoageforatleasttwoweeks.
MAKESABOUT8CUPSLIMONCELLO
10lemons,preferablyorganic
1(750ml)bottle100proofvodka
3cupssugar
Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemonsinwidestrips,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Setthefruitasideforanotheruse.Putthepeelsinalargenonreactivecontainerandpourthebottleofvodkaoverthem.Coverthecontainerwithplasticwrapandstoreitinacool,darkspotforaslongasyoucanwait,atleast2weeksandpreferably4weeks.
Inamediumsaucepan,bring4cupsofwatertoaboilwiththesugar,stirringconstantlyuntilthesugardissolves.Removethepanfromtheheatandcoolcompletely.Addthesugarsyruptothevodka,cover,andletthelimoncellositfor24hours.Strainthemixtureintoaclean2-quartjarwithalidanddiscardthelemonpeels.Storeinthefreezer.
VARIATION:Forcreamylimoncello,addavanillabean,splitandscraped,tothelemonpeelsandvodka.Attheendof2weeks(or4weeks),bring8cupsofwholemilktoasimmerwith5cupsofsugar.Simmerfor5minutes,untilthesugarhasdissolved,removefromtheheat,andcoolcompletely.Addthemilkysyruptothevodkaandstrainitintoaclearbottleorjar.Storeinthefreezer.
lemonstickforadultsPartginandtonic,partmojito,thisisthelemonstick,allgrownup.Itpacksapunch,sosipitslowlyorserveovericetoppedoffwithclubsoda.
MAKES1SERVING
2ouncesHomemadeLimoncelloorstore-bought
2ouncesgin
1ouncefreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
5largefreshpeppermintleaves
Lemontwist,forgarnish
Clubsodaorsparklingwater(optional)
Fillacocktailshakeroraliddedglassjarwithicecubes.Addthelimoncello,gin,lemonjuice,andmintleaves.Shakevigorouslyuntilwellchilled.Strainandserveinamartiniglassgarnishedwithalemontwist,orinahighballglassfilledwithice,toppedupwithclubsoda.
green-and-lemonshotsWhenwe’vegotanabundanceofkaleinourgarden,Ipullthejuiceroutandmakeenoughofthisrefreshingcombinationtofilltwolittlejuiceglasses.It’saperfectlybalancedshotofsweet-tart-spicy-greenfeel-good.
MAKES2SERVINGS
1lemon,quartered
2greenapples,suchasNewtownPippinorGrannySmith
2packedcupskaleorspinachleaves
1-inchknobginger,peeled
Removeanyvisibleseedsfromthelemonquarters,andcuttheapples(unpeeledanduncored)intopiecesthatwillfitthroughyourjuicerfeedchute.Insertthelemon,followedbytheappleandkale.Sendthegingerthroughlastandenjoyimmediately.
lemonrosemarybarleywaterBarleywaterhasbeenassociatedwithWimbledonforeightyyears,thoughdrinkingwaterwithboiledgraindatesallthewaybacktoancienttimes.Creditedwitheverythingfromnutritivetorestorativeproperties(theInvalidCookerysectionofMrs.Beeton’sBookofHouseholdManagementhasseveralrecipes),barleywater’spowersarelargelyunproven.AsfarasIcantell,itsabilitytorefresh,whetheratWimbledonorabackyardbarbecue,isreasonenoughtobrewabatch.Usetheleftoverbarleytomakeasalad.
Barleyisavailableinhulled(stillcontainingthegerm)andpearledforms.Itriedbothandpreferpearlbarley,whichgivesbarleywaterthecreamytextureandcloudyappearanceforwhichitisknown.
MAKES2QUARTSBARLEYWATER
1cuppearlbarley,wellrinsed
4lemons,peelremovedwithavegetablepeeler,fruitjuiced,divided
1cupsuperfinesugar
4sprigsfreshrosemary
Inalargesaucepan,combinethebarleywith2quartscoldwaterandhalfofthelemonpeels.Coverandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Reducetheheattoasimmerandcontinuetocook,partiallycovered,for30minutes,oruntilthebarleyistenderbutnotmushy.
Meanwhile,placetheremainingpeelsandthesugarinalargewide-mouthjarornonreactivepitcherand,usingamuddlerorthebackofawoodenspoon,mashthepeelswiththesugartoreleasetheiressentialoils.
Whenthebarleyiscooked,strainthebarleywaterintothejarandaddtherosemary.Stiruntilthesugardissolves,tastingoccasionallytogaugethestrengthoftherosemaryflavor.Removethesprigswhenittastesgoodtoyou.Addthejuiceof2ormorelemonsandrefrigerate.Leavethepeelsinthejarforadditionalflavor.
staples
PreservedLemons
HomemadeRicottaCheese
LemonCurd
LemonChutneywithDatesandCoriander
Lemon-InfusedOliveOil
MeyerLemon–GrapefruitMarmalade
CandiedLemonRibbons
preservedlemons
preservedlemonsHavingtriedanumberofmethodsforpreservinglemonsovertheyears,IthinkI’vefinallylandedonafavorite.Theinitialperiodofmarinatinginsaltistransformative,removinganybitternessandreplacingitwithpurelemon,withasofttextureandpickledflavor.Recipestypicallyallowonemonthforthisstep,butI’vefoundaweekisagreatstartwhenthelemonsarefirstcutintoeighths.Theycontinuetomellowandageintherefrigerator,wheretheywillkeepforsixmonthsormore.
You’llsoondiscoverthatpreservedlemonsdeserveaplaceofhonoramongyourfavoritecondimentsandfindyourselflookingforplacestoincludetheiruniquelyexoticflavor.Trytheminstews(BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa),salads(CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwithPreservedLemon),sauces,andvinaigrettes(SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette).
MAKES6PRESERVEDLEMONS,CUTINTOEIGHTHS
1dozensmalllemons(about3pounds)
1cupcoarseseasalt
Extra-virginoliveoil
Filla1-quartcanningjarwithboilingwater.Letthewatersitfor1minute;drainthejarandinvertitonacleantoweltodry.Sliceoffanddiscardthestemandblossomendsof6ofthelemonsandcutthemlengthwiseintoeighths.Putthewedgesinanonreactivebowl.Juicetheremaininglemons;youshouldendupwithabout1cupofjuice.Setthejuiceaside.
Addthesalttothebowlandtossthelemonsectionstocoatbeforepackingthemintothejar.Asyoufillthejar,addthesaltfromthebowl,evenlydistributingitthroughoutthejar.Coverthelemonswiththejuice,leaving½inchofheadroombetweenthejuiceandnonreactivelid.Letthelemonssitatroomtemperatureforaweek.Shakethejareverydaytoredistributethesaltandjuice.Afteraweek,addoiltocoverandrefrigerateforupto6months.
homemadericottacheeseTruericottaismadewithleftoverwhey,aby-productofmakinghardcheeseormozzarella.Althoughitisn’tauthenticinthestrictsenseoftheword,thissimplerecipedoesproducearesultfarsuperiortotheonesoldatgrocerystores.Anacid—lemonjuicehere—isthekeyingredient,separatingthecurdsfromthewheywhenit’sstirredintohotmilk.AvoidmilkthatisUHT—ultra-hightemperature—pasteurized,aprocessthatchangesitsproteinstructureandpreventsthemilkfromseparating.Theheavycreammakesforextra-rich,silky-smoothricotta.Thoughyoucan’tmakemorericottafromthewheyproducedinthisrecipe,youneedn’tdiscardit;it’sdeliciousforpoachingchickenorfish,makingoatmeal,orusinginplaceofwaterinbakingrecipes.
MAKES1GENEROUSCUPCHEESE
4cupswholemilk,notUHTpasteurizedandpreferablyorganic,suchasOrganicValley
1cupheavycream(optional)
½teaspoonkoshersalt
3to4tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice
Inanonreactivesaucepanovermedium-highheat,warmthemilk,cream,andsalt,stirringoccasionallytopreventburning.Whenthemilkregisters180degreesFonaninstant-readthermometer,removethepanfromtheheat.Addthelemonjuice(3tablespoonsforjustmilk;4tablespoonsformilkandcream),stironceortwice,andletthemixturestandundisturbedwhilethecurdsandwheyseparate,about15minutes.
Lineacolanderorsievewithcheesecloth,unbleachedpapertowels,oralargecoffeefilter.Setitoverabowlandladlethecurdsintothestrainer.Letthericottadraintoyourpreferredthickness;Ilikemyricottatohaveacreamyconsistency,similartoGreekyogurt.Putthericottainacleancontainerintherefrigeratoranduseitwithin4to5days.
lemoncurdI’vealwaysassociatedlemoncurdwithmygreatgrandmother,whowasScottish.Shespreaditonscones,freshfromtheoven,andslatheredherthickbutteryshortbreadwithit.Itwasn’tuntilIbecameinterestedinbakingthatIrealizedhowversatiletheyolkyyellowspreadis:It’safillingforcookiesandtarts,oratoppingforpoundcakeorabowlfulofberries.Youcanswirlitintocakebatterorfreezeitandservesmallscoopsinsteadoficecreamorwhippedcream.Leftovercurdwillkeepuptooneweekintherefrigeratoranduptotwomonthsinthefreezer.
MAKESABOUT1⅓CUPSCURD
1cupsugar
¼cupcoarselychoppedlemonzest(from4mediumlemons)
6eggyolks
½cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from2mediumlemons)
6tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces
½teaspoonkoshersalt
Prepareawaterbathforthecurd:Fillamediumpanwithafewinchesofwaterandbringthewatertoasimmer.Keepthewatersimmeringoverlowheatwhileyoucookthecurd.
Inanonreactivebowlthatissmallenoughtofitinsidethepanwiththewater,whisktogetherthesugar,zest,andeggyolks.(Dothisquickly:ifyouwait,themixturewillcoagulate.)Placethebowloverthepanandwhiskcontinuouslyuntilthesugardissolves.Addthelemonjuiceand,stillwhisking,cookforabout5minutes,untilthemixturebeginstothickenveryslightly.Addthebutterandsalt,thenswitchtoaspatulaandstirconstantlyuntilthemixtureisthickandopaque,withaconsistencybetweenyogurtandsourcream,about10moreminutes.Thecurdwillregisterapproximately170degreesFonaninstant-readthermometer.
Strainthecurdthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleanbowlandcoverwithplasticwrap,placingitdirectlyonthesurfacetopreventaskinfromforming.Refrigerateuntilfirm,about1hour.
lemonchutneywithdatesandcorianderMostofthecreditforthisrecipegoestothelateLaurieColwin,awonderfulnovelistwhoalsowroteaboutfoodwithanenthusiasmthatwascontagious.Itisnearlyimpossibletoreadherworkwithoutwantingdesperatelytocook,eat,or,inmycase,writeaboutfood.Aloverofchutney,Iwentstraighttothekitchenafterreadingherrecipeandmadeitexactlyaswritten.Overtheyears,I’veadaptedit,mostnotablybyaddingdates.Still,IofferitwithasignificantnodtoColwin.
Servethischutneywithcheese—sharpcheddarandgoatcheesearegoodmatches—roastpork,orlamb,oruseitasaglazeforgrilledchickenthighs.Notethatthelemonsneedtopickleovernight,somakethisrecipeadaybeforeyouplantoserveit.
MAKES2HALF-PINTJARS
4lemons(about1pound)
1tablespoonkoshersalt
⅓cupfinelychoppedshallots
¼cupfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(from1mediumlemon)
¼cupapplecidervinegar
2teaspoonspeeledandgratedfreshginger
1tablespoonyellowmustardseeds
1teaspooncorianderseeds,lightlytoastedandcrushed
½teaspoonredpepperflakes
1cupdarkbrownsugar
1cuppitted,finelychoppeddates(about5½ounces)
Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemons,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Useasharpparingknifetoremovethepithfromthelemons.Finelychopthepulpandpeels,discardingtheseeds,andputtheminanonreactivebowlwiththesaltandanyjuicesfromthecuttingboard.Coverthebowlandletitsitovernightonthecounter.
Thenextday,putthecontentsofthebowlinanonreactivesaucepanwiththeshallots.Stirinthelemonjuice,cidervinegar,ginger,mustardandcorianderseeds,pepperflakes,andbrownsugar.Bringthemixturetoaslowboilovermedium-highheat,stirringuntilthesugardissolves.
Addthedatesandreducetheheattoasimmer.Continuetocookoverlowheat,stirringoccasionally,untilthemixtureisthickandglossy,45minutesto1hour.
Seasontotastewithadditionalsalt,ifnecessary.Ifyoudon’tplantousethechutneywithin2weeks,ladleitintohot,sterilizedjarsandprocessinawaterbathaccordingtothejarmanufacturer’sinstructions.Storetheminacool,dark,dryplaceforuptoayear.
lemon-infusedoliveoilThemostcommonwaytomakeinfusedoilisbyheatingitgentlywiththeingredientthatwillflavorit.Buttoomuchheat—lengthoftime,temperature,orboth—compromisesthequalityofyouroliveoil.ThetechniqueIemployinthisrecipeissimilartomakinglemonsugar,usingsaltinsteadofsugar,andamortarandpestle,ratherthanmyfingertips,toextracttheessentialoil.Theresultisavibrant,lemon-flavoredoilthat’sgoodoneverythingfromscrambledeggstoroastedasparagus,invinaigrettesandaioli,ordrizzledoverpopcornwithseasaltandrosemary.Irecommendusingagood-qualityoliveoilforthebestresult.Notethattheoilshouldinfuseforthreedaysbeforeyoucanuseit.
MAKES1CUP
2mediumlemons
1teaspoonfineseasalt
1cupextra-virginoliveoil
Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemons,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Setthefruitasideforanotheruse.Youshouldhaveapproximately¼cuppeels.Addthepeelstoalargemortarornonreactivebowl.Sprinklethepeelswiththesaltand,usingapestle,muddler,orthebackofawoodenspoon,rubthepeelswiththesaltuntilitdissolves.Addone-fourthoftheoilandgentlymuddlethepeelswiththeoilfor1minute,oruntiltheoilisveryaromatic.Addtherestoftheoil,stir,andcoverthemortarlooselywithplasticwrap.Allowtheoiltoinfuseatroomtemperaturefor3daysbeforestrainingitintoaclean,dryglassjar.Storeitintherefrigeratororacool,darkcupboardupto6months.
meyerlemon-grapefruitmarmalade
meyerlemon–grapefruitmarmaladeThisgorgeousmarmaladeisthecolorofasunset.Itsflavorstrikestheperfectbalanceofbitter,tart,andsweet,owingtothecombinationofcitruspulp,rind,andsugar.Makingmarmaladeisabitofaproject,butthelargeyieldmeansyouhaveplentyforyourowntoastandforsharing.Itwillkeepnicelyforayearormore.Notethattheuncookedmarmaladeneedstositovernight,sothisisatwo-dayprocess.
MAKES6PINTJARS
3largeredorpinkgrapefruit(about3pounds),preferablyorganic
4to6Meyerlemons(about1pound),preferablyorganic
4cupssugar
1vanillabean,splitandscraped
Halvethegrapefruitandplacetheminalargenonreactivestockpotwiththewholelemons.Addenoughcoldwatertocoverthefruitbyafewinchesandsimmer,uncovered,untilthefruitisverysoft,about1hour.(Useawoodenskewertotestthefruit;itshouldpiercetheskineasily.)Ifthelemonsarereadybeforethegrapefruit,removethemtoabowltocool.Whenthegrapefruithalvesareready,setthemasidetocool.
Whenthefruitiscoolenoughtohandle,holdagrapefruithalfinthepalmofonehandand,workingoveramediumbowl,useaspoontoscoopthefleshandmembraneintothebowl,removinganyseedsasyougo.Thenusethespoontogentlyscrapeanddiscardanyexcesspithorfibersfromtheshell.Halveeachgrapefruitshellandcutitcrosswiseinto¼-inchstrips.Putthestripsinacontainerwithalidandreserveintherefrigeratoruntilthenextday.(Addingthegrapefruitpeelpartwaythroughtheprocessinsuresthatitholdsitshapeandretainsaslightchew.)
Repeattheprocesswiththelemons,addingthemembraneandanyjuiceorpulptothesamebowl,removingtheseedsasyougo.Beforeaddingthepeelstothebowl,gobackthroughandremoveanyseedsyoumighthavemissed.Coarselychopthepeelsandaddthemtothebowl.
Putthecontentsofthebowlintothebowlofafoodprocessor.Processuntilthefruitandlemonpeelarefinelychoppedandtransferthemtoacopperpreservingpan,orawide,nonreactivesaucepan.Add3cupsofcoldwater,thesugar,andvanillabean.Bringthemixturetoaboiloverhighheat,stirringonceortwicetocombinetheingredients.Removethepotfromtheheatandrefrigerateitovernight,tightlycovered.
Thenextday,addthereservedgrapefruitpeeltothepanwiththefruitandbringthemixturetoaboil,uncovered,overhighheat.Cookatalivelyboilforapproximately30minutes.Atfirst,themixturewillbubblegently.Asthemoisturecooksout,concentratingthesugar,itwillfoam.Stireveryfewminutesafteritbeginsfoaming.Thebubbleswillbecomesmallwhenthemarmaladeisclosetobeingready,between222and225degreesF.(Spoonabitontoaplateandputitintherefrigeratorfor3minutes.Ifitthickenslikejam,it’sready.)Whenitsets,takethepotoffoftheheatandremoveanysurfacefoam
withacleanspoon.Removeanddiscardthevanillabean.Ladlethemarmaladeintohot,sterilizedjarsandprocessinawaterbathaccordingtothejarmanufacturer’sinstructions.Storethemarmaladeinacool,dark,dryplaceforayearormore.
candiedlemonribbonsHere’sawaytousezestfromarecipethatcallsforalargequantityoffreshlemonjuice.Beforejuicingthefruit,removethepeelandcutitthinstripsoruseavegetablepeelertoremovewiderpieces,whichIpreferfortheirunevenedgesandthewaytheycurlastheysimmerinthesimplesyrup.Garnishindividualdessertswithasingle,sugaredstripandlargeritemswithasparklytangleofcurls.
MAKES20TO24SUGAREDPEELS
4mediumlemons,preferablyorganic
2cupssugar,plusadditionalforcoatingthepeels
¼teaspooncreamoftartar,or2tablespoonscornsyrup
Usingavegetablepeeler,removethepeelfromthelemonsin½-to1-inch-widestrips,cuttingawayanypithremainingonthepeel.Cutthepeelsintothinnerstrips,ifdesired,andsetthefruitasideforanotheruse.
Placethepeelsinanonreactivesaucepanandcoverthemwithcoldwater.Bringthewatertoaboilovermedium-highheat.Boilthepeelsfor1minute,drain,andcoverwithfreshcoldwater.Repeattwomoretimes,thendrainthepeelsandremovethemtoaplate.
Usingthesamepan,bring1cupofwatertoaboilwiththesugarandcreamoftartar,stirringoccasionallyuntilthesugardissolves.Addthepeelstothesyrup,reducetheheattoasimmer,andgentlycookuntiltheyaretranslucent,about1hour.Allowthepeelstocoolcompletelyinthesyrup,thenuseaslottedspoontotransferthemtoawireracksetoverarimmedbakingsheet.(Refrigeratethesyrupforanotheruse.)Letthepeelsdryforseveralhours,oruntiltheyaresticky,butnotwet.(Iftheyarestillwet,wipeoffanyremainingsyrupwithapapertowel.)Spreadahandfulofsugaronaplateandtossthepeelsinthesugar,afewatatime,coatingthemcompletely.Storethepeelsinacontainerwithatightfittinglidforupto3months.
Anyleftoversyrupfromcandyingthelemonpeelswillbethickandintenselysweet,andwillkeepindefinitelyintherefrigerator.Useitsparinglyinsweettea,addtosparklingwatertomakeItaliansodas,orsplashitintoyourfavoriteginorvodkacocktails.It’salsogoodstirredintoplainyogurt,drizzledoverfreshfruit,orbrushedonabutterandegg-richbundtcakejustoutoftheoven.
acknowledgmentsAnyonewho’swrittenoneknowsthatacookbookisacollaborativeeffort.Fromstarttofinish—nomatteritssize,shape,length,orcontent—abookisshapedbyateam,eachmemberinformingtheprojectwithaspecificvision.ThisonebeganwithSusanRoxboroughandSasquatchBooks,whoapproachedmelastwinteraboutwritingalemoncookbook.Thanksfortheopportunity;itwasaprojectIenjoyedenormously.
Unlesstherecipesarebulletproof,acookbookisoflittleuse.Ihadacrackteamofrecipetesters,whocapablyandcheerfullyputmyrecipesthroughmultipletests.I’mincrediblygratefultoMarianneFrischandSaraSchrager,whotogethertested,documented,andofferedvaluablefeedbackonasignificantchunkoftherecipes.OthergeneroustestersincludeDianneandTomMcFarland,CaraPestorius,andJackleendelaHarpe.ThanksalsotoSarahandKevinScaldeferriandMiriamCarson.
SpecialthankstofriendandacephotographerJohnVallsandhisbetterhalf/propstylist/projectmanager,TheresaValls.Ican’timagineateambetterqualifiedtobringmyrecipestolife,orwithwhomI’drathercollaborate.JoyceHwang’slovelydesignandillustrationspulledalloftheelementstogethertocreatethisbeautifullittlebook.
Finally,thankstomyalwayssupportivehusband,Steven,whodidn’ttellmeuntilafterI’dturnedinthemanuscriptthathemightbealittlebittiredoflemons.
indexNOTE:Photographsareindicatedbyitalics.
A
AffogatowithLimoncelloIceCream
AguaFrescawithBasil,StrawberryLemon
AsparagusandLemonPestoPizzawithSmokedMozzarella
B
Bars,BestLemon
beef
BraisedBeefwithPreservedLemonsandHarissa
GrilledFlankSteakwithCharredLemonChimichurri,5.1,5.2
Biscotti,PepperyLemonParmesan
BreadandChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette,Toasted,5.1,5.2
breakfasts
BrusselsSproutsandKaleSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette
C
Cake,MeyerLemonandTangerineOliveOil
CandiedLemonRibbons
Cauliflower“Couscous”withLemon,Parsley,andAlmonds,Toasted,3.1,3.2
Chard-LentilSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill
cheese,ricotta.Seericottacheese
ChickenSaladwithRoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette,ToastedBreadand,5.1,5.2
ChickenSoupwithHerbedDumplings,LemonParmesan
Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmondMacarons
ChutneywithDatesandCoriander,Lemon
Cookies,LemonCrinkle
cookware,nonreactive
CornontheCobwithSmokedPaprika-LemonButter,Grilled
Crab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche,MeyerLemonRisottowithDungeness
CrèmeBruléewithLavenderandHoney,Lemon,6.1,6.2
curd.Seelemoncurd
D
DalwithSpinachandYogurt,Lemon
drinks
DutchBaby,David’sDouble-Lemon,1.1,1.2
E
EggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds,Baked,1.1,1.2
G
GnocchiwithShellingPeasandGreenGarlic,Lemon–GoatCheese,4.1,4.2
Green-and-LemonShots
GreenBeanandTomatoSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette,Summer,2.1,2.2
H
HalibutwithLemonRelish,Pan-Seared,5.1,5.2
I
IceCream,AffogatowithLimoncello
J
juicing
K
KaleandBrusselsSproutsSaladwithLemon–BrownButterVinaigrette
L
LambChopswithLemon,Sumac,andZa’atar,Grilled
Lemonade,RoseGeranium,7.1,7.2
lemoncurd
LemonandPoppySeedParfaitwithStrawberries,6.1,6.2
LemonCurd,recipefor
MiniLemonMeringueWhoopiePieswithLemonCurdFilling,6.1,6.2
lemons,about
LemonStickforAdults
Lentil-ChardSoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill
Limoncello,Homemade
LimoncelloIceCream,Affogatowith
Limonina,LemonMint
M
Macarons,Chocolate-FilledLemonAlmond
Marmalade,MeyerLemon–Grapefruit,8.1,8.2
meat,seafood,andpoultry
MeyerLemon–GrapefruitMarmalade,8.1,8.2
MeyerLemonandTangerineOliveOilCake
MeyerLemonRisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche
MuffinswithCrystallizedGinger,Lemon
O
oliveoil,lemon-infused
BakedEggswithLemon,Cream,andPoppySeeds,1.1,1.2
ButteryHedgehogPotatoeswithLemonandHerbs
recipefor
P
PannaCottawithLemonVerbenaandBlackberries,LemonButtermilk,6.1,6.2
ParfaitwithStrawberries,LemonandPoppySeed,6.1,6.2
PieswithLemonCurdFilling,MiniLemonMeringueWhoopie,6.1,6.2
PizzawithSmokedMozzarella,AsparagusandLemonPesto
PotatoeswithLemonandHerbs,ButteryHedgehog
PreservedLemon,CrackedWheatandCarrotSaladwith
PreservedLemons,8.1,8.2
PreservedLemonsandHarissa,BraisedBeefwith
PreservedLemonVinaigrette,SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwith,2.1,2.2
R
Ribbons,CandiedLemon
ricottacheese
HomemadeRicottaCheese
LemonCornmealRicottaWaffles,1.1,1.2
SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs,4.1,4.2
SummerTomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette,2.1,2.1
RisottowithDungenessCrab,Tarragon,andCrèmeFraîche,MeyerLemon
RoseGeraniumLemonade,7.1,7.2
RosemaryBarleyWater,Lemon
S
salads,2.1,5.1
SalmonwithLemons,CedarPlank–Grilled
sides
SoupwithHerbedDumplings,LemonParmesanChicken
SoupwithLemon,Feta,andDill,Lentil-Chard
SpaghettiwithRadicchio,Ricotta,andLemon-GarlicBreadCrumbs,4.1,4.2
SpinachandYogurt,LemonDalwith
Squash,LemonMiso-RoastedDelicata
staples
StrawberryLemonAguaFrescawithBasil
sweets
T
Tart,ToastedCoconut–Lemon
TomatoandGreenBeanSaladwithPreservedLemonVinaigrette,Summer,2.1,2.2
V
vegetariandishes
vinaigrettes
Lemon–BrownButterVinaigrette
PreservedLemonVinaigrette,2.1,2.2
RoastedLemon-ShallotVinaigrette,5.1,5.2
W
Waffles,LemonCornmealRicotta,1.1,1.2
Z
zesting
ZucchiniSaladwithLemonandMarjoram,Shaved,2.1,2.2
conversionchart
abouttheauthorELLENJACKSONtrainedattheNewEnglandCulinaryInstituteandworkedfortwelveyearsinsomeofPortland’sbestrestaurants.Sheispresentlyacookbookauthor,foodwriterandstylist,andrecipedeveloper.ShesitsontheboardofthePortlandFarmers’MarketandisamemberofSlowFoodPortland,ChefsCollaborative,andPortlandCulinaryAlliance.SheistheauthorofTheChefsCollaborativeCookbook,co-authorofTheGrandCentralBakingBook,andcontributortoThePaley’sPlaceCookbook.EllenlivesinPortland,OR.