The List - May

THE LEADER.

THE LIST.THE LIST.May 2013

Page 2 • THE LIST • May 4, 2013 • @heightsleader

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A group of pioneering Tex-Mex restau-rant owners carved out a place for them-selves as Houston icons with their popular eateries, colorful personalities and service to their communities.

Leo Reynosa, Sr. had the most direct ties to The Leader area, opening Leo’s Mexican restaurant in an old house on Shepherd Drive in 1942.

His claim to fame was that, as a young man, he rode with Mexican revolutionary Pancho Villa, and the walls of the restau-rant and the menu itself commemorated his involvement.

Leo’s gained a cult status with ZZ Top fans when it became a favorite of that band’s mainstay, Billy Gibbons, and was featured on an album cover.

The restaurant later moved to Harvard Street near Washington Avenue and closed in 2001. In later years, Leo sat inside the entry, greeting customers and happy to share his memories with anyone who asked. He died in 1995 and is buried at Houston’s veteran’s cemetery.

Felix Tijerina introduced many in Hous-ton to Mexican food through his Felix’s

group, founded in 1937, that had six loca-tions at one time here and in Beaumount. The landmark Spanish-style location at Westheimer near Montrose was open for 60 years and served generations of families who swore by its combination plates and impeccable service.

Tijerina himself became a champion of postwar rights of Mexican-American soldiers and of education, earning national recognition. He died in 1965 and wife Janie carried on running Felix’s.

Ninfa Laurenzo built a humble tortilla factory into a restaurant empire in her life-time. When the factory fell on hard times, she opened a 10-table eatery in the front, sometimes entertaining patrons by belting out favorite songs from her childhood days in the Rio Grande Valley. It soon became obvious she had found her true calling.

Ninfa’s evolved into a group of restau-rants, a fast-food spinoff and an Italian pizza drive-thru chain.

Eventually expansion and Houston’s

economic woes took their toll, but not be-fore Ninfa became a recognizable face and household name in her adopted city.

Her iconic status was cemented in the 1980s when she was credited with popularizing a Tex-Mex skirt steak grill as “fajitas.”

Ninfa died from cancer in 2001. The original Ninfa’s on Navigation in the Second Ward is still in operation, and her family has the El Tiempo Cantina chain and Laurenzo’s steak house.

The other icon who’s restaurant lives on is Cyclone Anaya, with a Durham location and others as far-flung as Virginia.

Anaya – born Jesus Becerra Valencia in Guadalajara in 1917 – was a square-jawed, handsome teenage Mexican national wrestling champion who soon became a popular fixture in U.S. wrestling. When he married a former Miss Houston, he planted himself here, and 40 years ago – using Carolina Anaya’s recipes – they started a restaurant.

Anaya was the ambassador for the res-taurant until his death in 1999.

– Charlotte Aguilar

Houston pioneers have led the Tex-Mex food craze

Cyclone Anaya Ninfa Laurenzo Felix Tijerina


by Wes SwiftFor The Leader

Before it was Texas, this region was part of Mexico, and that influence is still savored in what’s arguably our most popular cuisine, now known slangily as “Tex-Mex.” Over the years, tacos, tamales, enchiladas, fajitas, arroz and frijoles have become, metaphorically, as red, white and blue as they are red,

white and green.Tex-Mex food, with roots in the simple, traditional dishes served by Mexican

families in Texas, started its journey into the mainstream in the 20th century as Americans discovered the spicy and tasty dishes served by street vendors and small cafes in San Antonio, the Rio Grande Valley, Houston, Dallas and Austin.

Today, Tex-Mex could be called rightly, if not a bit tongue-in-cheek, the state’s national cuisine.

And if you’re going to eat Tex-Mex in Texas, there’s a few things you have to know:

Don’t judge a book by its coverCall it the Tex-Mex inverse principle. Lots of great Tex-Mex joints in Houston

aren’t much to look at. Check out customers reviews, and you’ll find the term “hole in the wall” often attached to places known for excellent food.

Don’t be scared off by a shabby exteriorAmong the often spartan decor, Tejano muzak and Spanish spoken behind the

counters, you’ll find dazzling enchilada plates, tacos, tamales, chiles rellenos and other less familiar homestyle dishes, such as complex moles and hearty carne gui-sada, a slow-cooked stew.

Joe Drape, a New York Times writer and former Texan who profiled Tex-Mex food in 2007, developed a set of criteria he used to judge whether a Tex-Mex joint was worthy of checking out.

First, he said, it had to be family-owned. Second, it had to be a “ramshackle place” with added-on rooms a plus.

“The most popular Tex-Mex restaurants started small and expanded due to popu-lar demand,” he wrote. And finally, the patrons had to be a diverse group, or as he called it “the face of democracy.”

Some Tex-Mex joints don’t even have a building at all. Taco trucks can be found in nearly every neighborhood and offer good food. Here’s a tip: Look for trucks with menus completely in Spanish.

It doesn’t have to be expensiveTex-Mex food is built upon simple ingredients that were readily available to Mexi-

can Texans. Take a traditional chili con carne recipe. The ingredients are basic: meat, chili peppers, spices and seasonings, water. There are no expensive, hard-to-locate ingredients that make whipping up the dish difficult. Most staples of Tex-Mex cook-ing are equally basic.

That means serving up good Tex-Mex doesn’t have to be a pricey proposition. Scads of eateries abound offering platters and entrees for far below $10 each; you can grab a good breakfast taco for around a dollar in some places. So, as long as you stay away from the margaritas, it’s easy to find a tasty, filling meal for under $15.

Ironically, it’s that low cost that led food critics to turn their noses up in decades past. Diana Kennedy, who wrote “The Cuisines of Mexico” in 1972, urged food-lovers to explore the European influences in Mexican cuisine (including French and Spanish), while labeling the Tex-Mex dishes found in the U.S. as “the lowest com-

mon denominator” of Mexican-influenced foods.Of course, there are more than a few upscale Tex-Mex restaurants offering more

pricey fare. You can drop $25 or more at places such as El Tiempo Cantina and Pappasito’s for dinner – and get good food. It’s just a matter of what your budget is.

It’s all about familia In his book “The Tex-Mex Cookbook,” longtime Houston food critic Robb Walsh

recounts several stories behind popular Tex-Mex eateries. Not surprisingly, family plays an enormous role in nearly every story.

Tex-Mex food first started to gain popularity toward the end of the 19th century. In San Antonio, vendors and women known as “chili queens” peddled chili con carne and other dishes. Chili vendors at the 1893 World’s Fair in Chicago were so popular that within a few years chili restaurants began popping up across the coun-try.

At its core, Tex-Mex cuisine is a blue-collar cuisine that fused Native American, Mexican and Spanish cooking styles with foodstuffs available in Texas.

Enchiladas, tacos and other staples found their way to the kitchen tables in Mexican Texans. Then, those families opened small eateries and cafes using those traditional recipes. Some of the dishes were tweaked to cater to Anglo palates; others were tweaked as dietary trends changed.

“Many of the ingredients have been banned from the kitchens of American food lovers for years,” Walsh wrote. Among those are lard, Velveeta and processed foods.

But despite those changes, most good Tex-Mex traces back to family recipes that are a hallmark of the cuisine.

Houston culinary landmark Ninfa’s on Navigation is a case in point. In the 1970s, Ninfa Rodriguez Laurenzo opened her namesake restaurant on the city’s East Side. According to accounts of Laurenzo’s life, the restaurateur created her dishes with inspiration from her mother’s cooking.

Ninfa’s signature dish? Tacos al carbon, using skirt steak. The restaurant later changed the name to “tacos al a Ninfa.” Then, some time later, they changed the name again, and started a national food craze that still has mouths watering today.

The new name? “Fajitas.”

Tex-Mex RecipeFlavor, simplicity, family

The chili queens of San Antonio, who brought their homecooking to the streets, first began popularizing Tex-Mex flavors in the late 1800s. (Photo from Institute of Texan Cultures)


360 Sports Lounge4601 Washington Ave., Ste 150Website: www.360SportsLounge.

comHours: 4 p.m. to 12 a.m., Mon-

day through Tuesday; 4 p.m. to 2 a.m., Wednesday

through Friday11a.m. to 2 a.m., Saturday11 a.m. to 12 a.m., Sunday

Billing itself as Houston’s best neighborhood sports bar and res-taurant, 360 Sports Lounge isn’t perhaps the first place that comes to mind when talking about Tex-Mex food. But the menu does boast a few Tex-Mex standbys, such as chicken enchiladas and fajita tacos.

Berryhill in the Heights702 E 11 St

Website: www.berryhillinthe-heights.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday

8 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday8 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday

We’re straying a bit from our Tex-Mex roots. Berryhill is a bit more West Coast, offering some elements of California-influenced and Baja California cuisine. You’ll still find a bevy of tacos, enchi-ladas and combo platters, along with burritos and chimichangas.

Bravo’s5101 Bingle

The fourth location of a local chain, Bravo’s features a variety of Tex-Mex staples and margarita specials.

Cadillac Bar1802 Shepherd

Website: www.cadillacbar.comHours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday

8:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday

Owned by the Landry’s Corpora-tion, this chain restaurant features a bit more upscale menu. Try the cabrito for a little something dif-ferent.

Casa Grande3401 N. Main

Web: www.casagrandehouston.comHours: 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., Mon-

day through Saturday10 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and

Saturday Established in 1997 in the site of the former Stewart’s Hamburgers, Casa Grande offers a slew of Tex-Mex dishes, including in several seafood dishes. Try the Al Gusto, or shrimp enchiladas.

Cazadores Mexican Restaurant11031 Northwest Freeway

Reasonable prices for Tex-Mex. Try the chicken enchiladas blan-cas.

Chilosos Taco House701 E. 20th St.

Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday

8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday One of those “hole in the wall” breakfast and lunch neighbor-hood places that always seems to have good Tex-Mex. Try the tacos with flour tortillas you see made. The tacos can be customized with a variety of fixins, including highly touted salsas.

Chipotle207 Heights Blvd.

Website: www.chipotle.comHours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Sunday

Part of the “Fresh Mex” trend in casual dining, the Chipotle chain offers a limited menu of made-to-order items including tacos, burritos and salads with a variety of steam table meats and fresh produce, guaca.m.ole and cheese. Try the soft tacos with carnitas for a tasty meal.

Cyclone Anaya’s1710 Durham

Website: www.cycloneanaya.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Thurs.

11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday8:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Saturday8:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday

Founded by a well-known pro-fessional wrestler from a bygone era, Cyclone Anaya’s has been serving Tex-Mex for more than 40 years. Try the lunch special, which allows patrons to select from several staples such as en-chiladas, tacos, tamales and tacos al carbon. The happy hour starts at 11 a.m.

El Gran Malo2307 Ella

Hours: 4 p.m. to 12 a.m., Mon-day through Thursday

4 p.m. to 2 a.m., Friday11 a.m. to 2 a.m., Saturday11 a.m. to 12 a.m., Sunday

Website: www.elgranmalo.comDescription: This “gastrocantina” brings a modern spin on Mexi-can food and pairs dishes with speciality tequilas. For a little something different, try the snap-per taco, with seared red snapper, pomegranate salsa, shaved cab-bage, serrano and micro-cilantro.

El Real Tex-Mex Café1201 Westheimer

Website: www.elrealtexmex.comHours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.,

Monday through Wednesday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Thursday

11 a.m. to 12 a.m., Friday and Saturday

10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday Founded by local celebrity chef Bryan Caswell, who’s made ap-pearances on The Food Network, and longtime Houston food critic Robb Walsh, El Real focuses on traditional recipes (including the use of lard) that aren’t commonly found any more. You don’t get much more Tex-Mex than Frito pie, and there’s the Freddy Fender plate with puffy tacos, beef enchi-lada and tamales.

THE LIST.THE LIST. PLACESYou Must Try

Andy’s Cafe 1115 E. 11st Street

Hours: Open 24 hours A Heights Tex-Mex classic, known for staying open 24 hours. A perfect place for a early morning meal after a night of party-ing, check out the breakfasts and enchilada plates – which can have an egg added.

Don JoseMexican Restaurant

5305 AntoineWebsite: www.donjosemexican-

restaurant.com In business for more than 20 years, Don Jose caters to families looking for a variety of Tex-Mex food. Try the tamales for a taste of true Tex-Mex.

Don Teo’sMexican Restaurant

2426 W. 34th St.Website: www.donteos.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Monday, Tues-day and Sunday

11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday

11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fri. - Sat. A family restaurant in Oak Forest with lengthy ties to the now-defunct Monterrey House chain, Don Teo’s offers patrons some of the familiar tastes of that institution. Tex-Mex lovers can try the Fiesta Dinner, which includes cheese enchiladas and tamales.

Tortas El Angel1018 N. Shepherd

Hours: 8 a.m. – 9 p.m., Mon. - Thur.8 a.m. – 10 p.m., Friday & Saturday

10 a.m. – 7 p.m. SundayWebsite: www.tortaselangel.com

Tortas are Mexican sandwiches and Tortas El Angel’s bolillos (French style rolls, crunchy on the outside and fluffy inside--a holdover from France’s occupation of Mexico) set these tortas apart, with fillings both tradition-al (from fajitas to pork) to offbeat (ham and pineapple). A full array of classic Tex-Mex dishes, too, with daily specials.See more of THE LIST

on PAGE 5


El Rey Taqueria3330 Ella and 910 ShepherdWebsite: www.elreytaqueria.comHours: Ella location: 7 a.m.

to 10 p.m., Mon. - Sat.8 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday;

Shepherd location: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Mon. - Tues.

7 a.m. to 12 a.m., Wed.7 a.m. to 3 a.m., Thursday

and Saturday8 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday

El Rey combines Cuban and Mexican fare for locals look-ing for tasty dishes, especially late at night on the weekend. The carne asada offers a great meal for those looking for something different.

El Taquito Rico3701 N. Main

Check out the tacos al pastor and barbacoa tacos at this neighborhood taco stand that has all the neighbors raving.

El Tiempo Cantina5602 Washington Ave.

Web: www.eltiempocantina.comHours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.,

Monday and Tuesday11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Wednes-

day and Thursday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday9:30 a.m. to 11 p.m., Sat.

9:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday Created by the Laurenzo family, which for many years owned the popular Ninfa’s chain of restaurants and still controls the original, El Tiem-po keeps the family culinary tradition alive. When you’re there, don’t mess around: Try the famous fajitas.

Fiesta Tacos4624 W. 34th St.

Hours: 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., Tuesday through Friday

7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Saturday7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday

Locals at this hangout east of 290 swear by the breakfast tacos and tamales here. Try the chicharron tacos, too.

Freebirds World Burrito1923 Taylor St. & 13280

Northwest FreewayWebsite: www.freebirds.comHours: 10:30 a.m. to 9:30

p.m., Monday through Thursday

10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Fri-day and Saturday

10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday Founded in Santa Barbara, Calif., then planting its roots in College Station, Freebirds is another of the “Fresh Mex” restaurants that have become popular in the last 15 years. When you’re there, bring your appetite and tackle the huge burrito known as the Monster.

1777 Airline Dr. 713-862-2828A fusion of Chicago, Italian & Mexican cuisine

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Since 1979, Spanish Flowers has enjoyed a reputation far beyond its Heights-area neighborhood as the place to go for a middle-of-the-night hankering for Tex-Mex and Mexican special-ties.

But this vast restaurant, located at 4701 N. Main, is always humming. The 24-hour eatery (except for a break from 10 p.m. Tuesday-9 a.m. Wednesday) offers a lengthy menu of breakfast, lunch and dinner specials plus authentic beverages ranging from fruit drinks to margaritas.

There’s everything from the standards – enchiladas, tacos, tama-les – to traditional mole, menudo, caldos (soups) and parrilladas – sizzling grilled platters of meats and shrimp served individually or family style. Five lunch specials are offered daily for $5.99 each.

And there are gourmet touches, too. Besides the standard chile con queso and nachos, the menu offers an avocado appetizer filled with shrimp, scallops and crabmeat, then topped with a tarragon sauce.

You can enjoy Spanish Flowers in the comfort of your home with a choice of take-out packs that come with rice, beans, pico de gallo, tortillas, chips and salsa. Choices include a whole roasted chicken, beef or chicken fajitas, enchiladas by the dozen, pork par-rillada (featuring a pound of carnitas, half-pound of barbecue ribs, jalapeno sausage and charro beans), or carne guisada.

For information, visit www.spanish-flowers.com or call 713-869-1706.

Spotlight: Spanish Flower

See more of THE LIST on PAGE 6


Frida Mexican Kitchen3452 Ella Blvd.

La Casa de Frida4002 N. Main St.

Website: www.lacasadefri-dahouston.com

Hours: Ella location, 6:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday

through Sunday;N. Main location, 8 a.m.

to 3 p.m., Monday through Sunday

This pair of Tex-Mex eateries pays tribute to Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, and promises to serve dishes like Kahlo painted, with “the finest col-ors and ingredients.” Try the famous mole enchiladas while you’re there.

Hugo’s Mexican Restaurant1600 Westheimer

Website: www.hugosrestaurant.netHours: 11 a.m. to 10 a.m., Monday through Thursday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday

and Saturday10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday

This gourmet Mexican res-taurant -- pure Mex Mex with

little Tex -- is the brainchild of chef Hugo Ortega, and relies on the dishes found in his na-tive Mexico. Try the Tlayuda, an oversized blue corn tortilla stuffed with grilled chopped skirt steak and a housemade Oaxacan quesillo (cheese), served with arroz a la Mexi-cana.

Juanita’s Mexican Restaurant2628 W. T.C. Jester Blvd.

A neighborhood Tex-Mex with a loyal clientele, Juanita’s Mexican Restaurant’s menu is filled with comfort food sta-ples. Enchilada lovers should try the chicken enchilada with red sauce.

La Carreta208 E. 20th St. Heights

A classic family-owned plain-and-simple cafe where generations have enjoyed basic breakfasts and nachos, enchiladas, tacos, rice and bean combination plates. The priciest items, at $8, are the fajitas or carnitas dinners.

La Fisheria Mexican Seafood Cocina

4705 Inker St.Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday - Saturday

12 p.m. to 4 p.m., Sunday Chef Aquiles Chavez, a TV star in Mexico, has drawn rave reviews with his Heights seafood restaurant that serves seafood with a twist. You can’t go wrong with anything on the menu, but try the red snapper ceviche.

Laredo Taqueria915 Snover St. (at Washington)

Hours: 6 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday through Saturday

7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Sunday Steam table specials heavy on the Tex-Mex that can be served as plates or in tacos

have a real homemade taste. The line snakes out the door for breakfast tacos and at lunchtime, but the service moves fast. Cash only.

Little Casita MexicanRestaurant

5137 Antoine This place described by some patrons as a “dive that you

roll out of bed for,” earns high marks for serving breakfast all day. Check out the breakfast tacos.

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If there’s a sizzling “parrillada” being whisked out of the kitchen when you walk into La Casa de Frida (4002 N. Main) or Frida Mexican Kitchen (3452 Ella), you won’t even want to see a menu. So intoxicating are the sounds and the aroma of the sizzling meats, onions and peppers, you’ll merely point and say, “Give me one of those.”

Indeed, there’s much to be said for the family-style parrilladas served up at these popular Heights and Oak Forest restaurants –– but you’d be missing out on a wide menu of Tex-Mex favor-ites with homestyle touches (enchiladas, tacos, gorditas, mole, to name a few) –– and even some Italian dishes at the North Main location.

That restaurant also boasts a weekend brunch and highly praised margaritas.

The warmed-up red and piquant green salsas are killer at both locations, guacamole is mixed to order at the table, and cilantro-flecked arroz verde replaces the standard Mexican rice. The rice and perfectly seasoned charro beans are served in little pots with each order.

Chef Linda Plascencia has been at her craft around the globe for more than two decades, and the restaurant – and she – take their inspiration from the culturally committed iconic Mexican artist Frida Kahlo, whose countenance is everywhere.

Spotlight: La Casa de Frida



Los DOS Amigos5720 Washington Ave.

It may not be the prettiest looking place, but Los DOS is a go-to place for Tex-Mex on the Washington Avenue Cor-ridor. Lots of stuff to recom-mend, but try the enchiladas with fried eggs. Because everything is better with a fried egg.

Lupe Tortilla MexicanRestaurant

1511 ShepherdWebsite: www.lupetortilla.comHours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday

This popular Tex-Mex chain originated here in Houston and has quickly expanded across the city. The custom Tex-Mex plates are a top op-tion. Pick two of several foods to create your platter. We recommend the puffy tacos be one of them.

Maria’s Tacos and More5327 Ella

Hours: 6 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday

Oh my, how we just love these small neighborhood places. Maria’s Tacos and More serves a loyal clientele. One customer affectionately described its bare-bone store-front as a “taco truck without wheels.”

Mi Sombrero Restaurant3401 N. Shepherd

Website: www.misombrero.com

Hours: 7 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday through Thursday7 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday

and Saturday Mi Sombrero has been in business for more than three decades, so you know they must be doing something right. A variety of Tex-Mex classics dot the menu, but go on a weekend when breakfast is served all day, and try the breakfast enchiladas: cheese enchiladas topped with fried egg.

Mission Burrito1609 Durham

Website:www.missionburritos.comHours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Saturday11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday

Another of the “Fresh Mex” concepts to come to Houston in the last 20 years, Mission Burrito is a bit more Cal-Mex, with its made-to-order bur-ritos. However, the tacos are tasty.

Molina’s Cantina4720 Washington AveWeb: www.molinas-

restaurants.comHours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.,

Monday11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Tuesday

and Wednesday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Thursday

and Saturday11 a.m. to 12 a.m., Friday

One of a triad of restaurants under the Molina’s banner, Molina’s Cantina on Washing-ton Avenue offers dishes a bit more upscale than you’ll find in the hole in the wall places. While you’re there, we suggest you try the grilled quail, sim-ply because it’s not something you’ll find at a lot of Tex-Mex eateries.

Monterey’s Little Mexico1331 Crosstimbers

Website: www.montereys.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday11 a.m. to 11 p.m., Friday

and Saturday Try the Milanesa, a breaded, deep fried fajita steak, at Monterey’s Little Mexico, a chain of Tex-Mex/Mex-Mex eateries in Houston.

Perico’s Mexican Café2701 Mangum

Taking over a former Taqueria Arandas location, the hidden little spot features fajitas, tacos and the traditional Tex-Mex fare.

Refresqueria Michoacan1010 N. Shepherd

Hours: 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday through Thursday

10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday

10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Sunday This Heights eatery serves down-to-earth, no-frills Tex-Mex cuisine, and is one of the few places in Houston to get pambazo, a Mexican roll dipped in a guajillo pepper sauce and filled with chorizo and potatoes.

Spanish Flowers4701 N. Main

Web: www.spanish-flowers.comHours: Open 24 Hours, Monday through Friday

Open literally all week, this Heights institution is the place to go to get that 3 a.m. Tex-Mex fix. Check out the tamale dinner, served with chili con carne, onions and cheese.

Sunrise Taquito5601 Memorial Drive

If you’re gonna rumble down to Sunrise Taquito, you have to try the namesake breakfast tacos. The normal varieties are available: Eggs and bacon, eggs and potatoes, etc., but also try more exotic choices like lengua and machacado.

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Tacos A Go-Go2912 White Oak Dr.

Website: www.tacosagogo.comHours: 7 a.m. to 10 a.m., Monday through Thursday

7 a.m. to 2 a.m., Friday8 a.m. to 2 a.m., Saturday8 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday

While locals swear up and down about Tacos a Go-Go’s breakfast tacos, we recom-mend trying the tamale plate, which includes three tamales and your choice of beans. Diners can choose between traditional pork tamales and veggie tamales.

Taqueria Arandas920 N. Shepherd

Website: www.tacqueriasa-randas.com

This 30-store chain focuses more on combo platters and fajitas than smaller fare such as tacos. Try the Alambres, a fajita shish-kabob served with grilled vegetables.

Teotihuacan Mexican CaféThe Retro Stand

5403 N.Shepherd This North Houston eatery and its 1950s-inspired decor have been delighting diners for a while now.

Taqueria El Tapatio4550 Shepherd

Hours: 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Sunday

As evidenced by its 22-year run serving Tex-Mex fare, Taqueria El Tapatio is doing something right. Check out their Mexican-style steaks, such as the bistec, a sirloin steak topped with ranchero sauce.

Taqueria Los Charros404 N. Shepherd

Taqueria Los Charros offers a variety of Tex-Mex items, in-cluding homemade fl our and corn tortillas.

Tia Maria’s4618 Dacoma

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Thursday11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., Fri-

day and Saturday12 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Sun-

day Tia Maria’s patrons swear by their margaritas and combo platters. But beware: those margaritas pack a punch.

Taqueria Tepatitlan4720 N. Main

Hours: 7 a.m. to 1 a.m., Monday through Thursday

7 a.m. to 2 a.m., Friday through Sunday

You’ll fi nd some dishes here

that you won’t fi nd at more mainstream Tex-Mex joints, such as goat soup. So, yeah, try that.

Tony’s Mexican Restaurant2222 Ella

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Monday through Thursday11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m., Fri-

day and Saturday A large family-friendly place that packs in the crowds, es-pecially on the weekends, for old standbys such as Tex-Mex enchiladas smothered in chili gravy.

TQLA4601 Washington

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Monday through Wednes-day, Saturday and Sunday

11 a.m. to 2 a.m., Thursday and Friday

Website: www.tqla.comDescription: Trying out this tequila-centric establish-ment with its assortment of the namesake spirits on tap, you’re more likely to be drawn to its Mexican-style menu. Check out the crispy shred-ded chicken tacos with rajas, queso fresco, lettuce and pico de gallo.

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Tex-Mex doesn’t get much more old school than Andy’s Café, operated by the Morales family at 1115 E. 11th St. in the Heights since 1977.

And with the full menu available 24/7, it’s the perfect place to satisfy a middle-of-the-night craving for Tex-Mex comfort foods.

Forget fi nding Baja tacos or short rib nachos at Andy’s. Th eir chili gravy-topped cheese enchiladas (which can be served with an egg) are classics, and you’ll swear the carne guisada with the slow-simmered beef chunks in a brown gravy, or the meal size soups -- caldo de res (beef ) and caldo de pollo (chicken) came from a home kitchen.

Th at’s because the recipes are the originals from owner Sadie Morales, now 82, who started Andy’s with her late husband, Jes-sie. Sadie’s still active at the café, along with sons Th omas, David and Andy.

Loyal customers swear that Andy’s menudo – the tripe and hominy stew that’s a classic Tex-Mex hangover cure – is the best in Houston.

Th e housemade red and green salsas and bowls of creamy guaca-mole are great pick-me-ups at any hour.

Breakfast, lunch and dinner plates are reasonable and hearty. Early risers can get a two-egg-meat-beans or potatoes breakfast special for $3.59 or breakfast burritos (same as tacos in other places) for $1.39 each from 5-9 a.m., and a plate of three enchila-das, with rice and beans, chips and salsa, is $6.99 at lunch.

It’s comforting buen provecho (good eating) at fair prices.

Spotlight: Andy’s

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Think you know your Houston his-tory? Casa Grande has been a landmark of Houston’s Near North Side for even longer than its extensive Tex-Mex menu.

Named as a description of the struc-ture, Casa Grande was established in 1997, after it sat abandoned for about 10 years at the corner of North Main and I-45, across the street from Holly-wood Cemetery.

Before that, those who have lived in Houston long enough to remember the Astrodome in its glory, this piece of real estate was the home of Stewart’s Ham-burgers. The drive-in attraction of that business was the free covered parking.

Whether it is a lunchtime business

meeting or a lazy afternoon with the kids, come, sit and enjoy the food at Casa Grande. Owner Julio Garza will personally greet you and make sure you make Casa Grande one of your personal favorites with comforting dishes such as combination plates, seafood specials and traditional Mexican desserts.

Be sure to join Julio and the Casa Grande staff for a ribbon cutting and happy hour Thursday, June 20 from 4 to 7 p.m. There will be complimentary appetizers and margaritas for those who attend.

For more information about Casa Grande at 3402 N. Main, call 713-227-8801 or visit www.casagrandehouston.com.

Spotlight: Casa GrandeIn Spanish, “alma” means soul, and

for more than 25 years, Alma Latina Mexican restaurants have graciously served the Houston area with soulful dishes that reflect culture and tradition.

Starting as a small chain of taque-rias, a decade ago they proudly added the full service Alma Latina Heights location at 2203 N. Shepherd Drive, complete with a vast tequila and wine bar and a reputation for serving the best margaritas and micheladas in the Heights.

Schools, churches, and area businesses have all come to know Alma Latina as a dependable caterer.

The kitchen fires up long before dawn to prepare everything from breakfast tacos to full breakfast plates, including chilaquiles and migas. Until 10:30 a.m.,

many breakfast tacos are 99 cents each, and weekend specials include Mexican classics such as pozole, menudo and barbacoa.

Lunch specials are based around the customers’ favorites, and the day ends with a hearty dinner menu with choices ranging from Tex-Mex classics such as fajitas, enchiladas and tacos, to mole, a number of fish and seafood dishes in-cluding ceviche, to tres leches and other specialties for dessert.

From the cozy outdoor patio to the intimate dining room, Alma Latina truly shares the culture of the Heights.

Traditions run strong, and the kitch-en staff creates meals just the way they were made for them –– from Mexico with love.

Spotlight: Alma Latina

With a name that means “the Big Bad” in Spanish, you can expect a wicked “El Gran Cinco” celebration at El Gran Malo.

Known for its 50 handcrafted tequila infusions, which vary seasonally, fresh organic and seasonal margaritas, and its sweeping selection of craft and Mexican beers, El Gran Malo has a reputation for creative gastrocantina food, too.

Chef Greg Lowry has concocted six types of tacos (including pork belly), ceviche (including Gulf snapper), em-panadas (including crab) and burgers made from black angus beef and featur-ing toppings such as chorizo, fried egg and pork belly.

El Gran Cinco will start at 11 a.m.

Sunday and run until 2 a.m. the next day. From noon until they’re gone, Chef Randy Rucker will be serving crawfish, Fox Masterchef contestant Alvin Schultz will be mixing liquid ni-trogen frozen margaritas, and Karbach Brewery will be pouring its brews.

Also look for a grownup “lemonade stand” offering herb and fruit sangrias, specialty Jello shots and liquor-soaked fruits. For a little extra piquancy, Houston’s Bravado Spice will be on hand with its natural, preservative-free hot sauces.

El Gran Malo is located at 2307 Ella Blvd.; phone 832-767-3405. You can follow on Facebook at El Gran Malo or on Twitter @elgranmalotx.

Spotlight: El Gran Malo

You might not think of hitting a place called Chicago Pizza and Italian Beef for Tex-Mex food – but you’d be missing out.

The restaurant, located at 1777 Airline Drive, offers a great array of traditional Mexican breakfasts and breakfast tacos. Sprinkled throughout the regular menu and daily specials are tortas, quesadillas and other Tex-Mex favorites.

And of course there are the pizza, the Italian beef, po-boys and other sandwiches, hotdogs, burger, soups and entrees – along with beer and wine service – that guarantee every diner at

your table will find something to their liking.

Don Marquez opened Chicago Pizza and Italian Beef in 2004 and based its menu on the varied cuisines of the Windy City. Chef/Owner Rosio Caro says Chicago Pizza is the casual-feel place she has always wanted to run – a place where she herself would like to just “hang out.”

If hanging out isn’t an option, the restaurant has takeout and all-day delivery with a $10 minimum order, as well as catering and box lunches.

Visit their website at www.chica-goibp.com.

Spotlight: Chicago Pizza & Italian Beef

If comedian Cheech Marin and painter Frida Kahlo had a daughter, she’d probably grow up to open a place like Tila’s – Houston’s eclectic home for authentic Mexican cuisine.

And what better time to visit than during Drinko de Mayo –– celebrating the somewhat obscure Mexican holiday that’s rarely observed in that country but has been embraced here. Spend your Cinco de Mayo sipping margari-tas and cervezas at Tila’s Restaurante & Bar located at 1111 S. Shepherd, on the curve.

Sunday, May 5 from 11 a.m.-mid-night, Tila’s is celebrating Cinco de Mayo with live music, mouthwatering Mexican cuisine, margaritas, beer and more.

Seating is limited , so reservations are recommended by calling 713-522-7654.

Tila’s is also going all-out for Moth-er’s Day with a special menu, viewable on their website at www.tilas.com, live music and flowers for all moms.

Among the entrees: filet mignon topped with a poached egg and Hol-landaise sauce, and Mexican-flavored snapper, chicken and shrimp specials.

Tila’s is known for its weekend brunch and imaginative Mexican menus which feature upscale takes on traditional dishes to linger over or a “quick order” list for those extra hun-gry or in a hurry.

Visit the website at www.tilas.com

Spotlight: Tila’sCyclone Anaya was a legendary wres-

tler, square-jawed and handsome, and his namesake eatery has earned its own legend status with its family hospitality and deep-seated traditions in his honor.

Anaya earned Mexico’s wrestling championship at the age of 17 and quickly became a favorite in the pro ranks when he came to the U.S., win-ning many more titles.

But it was in Houston he set down roots when he married a former Miss Houston. He and Carolina, who were married for 50 years, had five children together -- and decided to go into the restaurant business.

Now, 40 years later, Cyclone Anaya’s three Houston locations -- including

the sleek, modern Leader-area restau-rant at 1710 Durham -- and outlets in Dallas and Virginia, are still serving Carolina’s original recipes. There are staple combinations with enchiladas, tamales and tacos. But the vast lunch, dinner and weekend brunch menus also feature updated and gourmet selec-tions, including wood-fired items and such palate pleasers as lobster enchila-das.

The full bar boasts a wide selection of prime tequilas that allow you to blend your own top shelf margarita, mixed drink specialties such as mojitos, and a rotating selection of specialty shots.

And don’t miss half-price win on Wine Down Mondays and Tuesdays.

Spotlight: Cyclone Anaya


Comprised of a few simple ingredients – eggs, meat, salsa, flour tortillas, maybe some refried beans – breakfast tacos are a quick-and-easy staple of Texas mornings.

Restaurants from drive-thrus to Tex-Mex cantinas to taco trucks have their own breakfast concoctions. Here are some of the favorite breakfast tacos in the Leader coverage area:

Alma Latina2203 N. Shepherd

Opening at 6 a.m., it’s a go-to place for those who need an early breakfast fix. Get there before 10:30 a.m., and there’s a full menu of basic breakfast tacos to select from for only 99 cents each.

Chilosos Taco House701 E. 20th Street

Fluffy homemade flour tortillas filled with staples such as scrambled eggs mixed with your choice of potatoes, bacon, and three types of sausage, each for only $1.75. Carne guisada and fajita choices, too. When the weather cooperates, the outdoor deck is a nice place to linger.

Down House1801 Yale St.

This is a locavore’s breakfast taco delight. They’re $4 each, $10 for two in-cluding black beans or home fries. Among the fillings: Braised pork, fried farm fresh egg, pickled onions and cilantro, or the homemade venison sausage with roasted poblanos, farm egg and Grafton cheddar cheese.

El Gallo de Jalisco3220 White Oak

A family-run Heights neighborhood standby, El Gallo opens early (6 a.m. Monday-Friday and 7 a.m. on weekends) to serve soul-satisfying breakfast tacos with homemade tortillas and fillings.

El Rey Taquerias910 Shepherd Drive3330 Ella Blvd.

Handy drive-thrus that mean you don’t have to dress up to enjoy breakfast tacos make these Mexican-Cuban restaurants a popular stop. They’re primarily known for their roast chicken, but a nice, basic of-fering of breakfast tacos – scrambled eggs with a choice of chorizo, ham or bacon, and add-ons such as potatoes, beans and guacamole – has put El Rey in the break-fast game, too. The salsa verde is what makes the difference, say true believers.

Fiesta Tacos4620 W. 34th St.

Another friendly neighborhood joint that serves breakfast tacos all day. Fiesta Tacos has a loyal following of custom-ers who fill the parking lot, looking to get a tasty bit of their reasonably priced, homestyle tacos with traditional fillings that include chicharrones.

Laredo Taqueria915 Snover St. (at Washington)

If you’re going to head down to this colorful neighborhood taqueria that’s survived the makeover of Washington Avenue, make sure you bring cash. Be-sides fluffy eggs and meats, you might just want to point at what looks tasty from a cumin-scented steam table. The authentic Mexican selections and rocking breakfast tacos include crispy whole pork chops – if you arrive early enough.

Los DOS Amigos5720 Washington

Another “hole in the wall” eatery serv-ing down-home breakfast taco comfort food, including tacos with machacado, chorizo and potatoes, among other top-pings.

Maria’s Tacos and More5127 Ella Blvd.

Cheap, hearty and simple are how Maria’s turns out breakfast tacos from a small stand on Ella. Fans say you can’t go wrong with the basic bacon and egg.

Mi Sombrero3401 N. Shepherd

Aficionados swear by the ample and varied breakfast tacos served daily until 11 a.m. and all day weekends at this Garden Oaks cafe. Their tout: eggs with mach-acado, a traditional dried, shredded beef.

Sarita’s Bakery1307 Yale St.

The Heights hole-in-the-wall mainly serves up fragrant pan dulce -- traditional Mexican sweets. But there’s a steam table with scrambled eggs and an array of ac-companiments like mama used to make that morph into custom-designed break-fast tacos. Cash only.

Spanish Flowers4701 N. Main

They’re called “burritos” here, but Spanish Flowers serves up a hearty morn-ing meal in a flour tortilla. You can pick two fillings – eggs, ham, bacon, potato, cheese, chorizo, beans, or sausage – for $3.50.

Sunrise Taquitos5601 Memorial Drive

Arrive early, especially on weekends, as a line forms for this breakfast-taco-and-lunch joint that custom makes each order. Sunrise lives up to its name, opening at 6 a.m. Monday-Saturday and 8 on Sundays, to turn out ample meat-and-egg tacos, but also fillings such as migas and carne guisada (a Mexican beef stew).

Table 19632 W. 19th St.

This homey little cafe does its own take on breakfast tacos. The selection is small but creative – a veggie version with squash, onion and spinach, and a pulled pork and provolone version among them.

Taco Cabana167 Yale St.700 N. Loop W. (at Shepherd)

Super cheap and drive-thru easy, with freshly made flour tortillas, Taco C’s breakfast tacos are a good way to feed a hungry family or crowd at the office or school. Most varieties are just over a buck apiece, but the real deal is the dozen box -- $10.99 for their most popular, $11.99 for a pick-it-yourself selection -- served with pico de gallo and salsas.

Tacos A Go-Go2912 White Oak Dr.

For breakfast tacos any time of day, Tacos A Go-Go offers a wide variety and selection for any palette. For $1.89, you can grab a taco with scrambled eggs and two additional ingredients, including bacon, sausage and chorizo to spinach, refried beans and mushrooms.

Taqueria Los Charros404 Shepherd

This little taco joint can be easy to miss, but the street food-style breakfast tacos are a treat. At only $1.50 per taco, they’re a bargain, too.

Say ‘buenos dias’ with breakfast tacos

Above, the line forms early for breakfast tacos at Laredo Taqueria on Snover at Washington, where the steamed table fillings – if you get there early enough – include a whole, crispy pork chop. At right, It’s the Tex-Mex twist on the traditional bacon and eggs -- a bacon and egg breakfast taco, wrapped in a fresh made flour tortilla and served with pico de gallo.

(Photos by Charlotte Aguilar)


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HAPPY HOUR Mon - Fri 3:00 pm - 7:00 pm

DIVERSE HAPPY HOUR Sat - Sun 8:00 pm - 10:00 pm

Long before the current fleet of gourmet food trucks hit the streets of Houston in recent years, there were the mobile taquerias. Primarily they served tacos and other handheld foods and iced-down beverages at construction sites and office buildings at reasonable prices to workers who couldn’t wander away for a long, leisurely lunch.

Those taco stands on wheels still serve that purpose, but some have lengthened their hours to reach out to patrons at late night bars and clubs without kitchens, and others have regular sites in Leader areas, where they do a brisk business with commuters and others doing a fast drive-by that doesn’t involve conventional fast food.

For those skittish about the trucks, remember this: They’re far more tightly regulated by the city than regular restaurants, required to make a daily visit to a city-approved commissary for servicing.

Here are some popular ones:

Nancy’s TaqueriaAddress: 1410 Washington

Details: This taco truck across the street from Trinity Lutheran School is known for its tacos, tortas and Mexican sodas. The tacos al pastor, featuring large chunks of marinated pork, draw raves.

Taqueria AnabelAddress: 2100 N. Shepherd

Details: This taco truck stand-ing near the North Loop front-age road offers something a bit unique for diners. The tortillas aren’t made until the custom-ers order them. Take advantage of those hot, steaming tortillas and check out their tacos and gorditas.

Taqueria DurangoEastbound North 610 feederat Shepherd

One of the highest volume, due to its location, sees patrons lining up in the morning for $1 breakfast tacos with both its flour and corn tortillas made by hand. There are also tortas (sandwich-es), tostad, and traditional Mexi-can fruit drinks and milkshakes. The burritos and quesadillas are made with Guinness record-size handmade flour tortillas that measure 16 inches. You can order ahead by calling 832-305-1432.

Taqueria Maya QuicheAddress: 4212 Washington

Details: Check out the beef tongue tacos at this taco truck, but be warned. This place gets very popular with the patrons at Washington Avenue drinking establishments, so the lines may be long at night.

Taqueria RoxanaAddress: 2100 N. Shepherd

Details: The second of two taco trucks near the Interstate

10 frontage road (the other be-ing Taqueria Anabel), Taqueria Roxana offers handmade tortillas and top-notch gorditas and street tacos.

At the AirlineProduce MarketAddress: 2520 Airline

On weekends especially, the open-air produce market boasts a veritable food court of taco trucks, all serving up fresh tacos and cold drinks. And you can count on the avocados and other produce toppings being fresh.

Taqueria BravoTaqueria LeticiaTaqueria Tacambaro

All offer hard-to-find fillings such as mollejitas, tripita and lengua.

Tex-Mexon wheels

You don’t find great food only in restaurants, especially in Houston

Gourmet food trucks abound in Houston, but the taqueria trucks pioneered the movement to bring food to patrons where they work and play.

(Photo byCharlotte Aguilar)

Taqueria Durango, which serves daily at the southwest corner of where Shepherd meets the North Loop, uses handmade 16-inch flour tortillas for its quesadillas and bur-ritos. (Photo by Charlotte Aguilar)

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241 W. 19 Street Houston TX -77008

713-880-2420

Where food is a cultural tradition


While it’s known primarily as a folkart gallery, Casa Ramirez in the Heights also prides itself in preserving and teaching Mexican and Mexican-American cultural traditions –– and food is at their heart.

Serving traditional dishes are a part of the holidays Casa Ramirez showcases, including Dia de los Muertos, Cinco de Mayo and Las Posadas, and the gallery has been known to host hands-on cooking workshops in its classroom space. Last Christmas, Arnaldo Richards of Pico’s Mex-Mex restaurant conducted two sold-out sessions on tamale making.

If you’d like to do a little cultural exploration in your own kitchen, Casa Ramirez off ers a wide range of colorful cookbooks. Th ere’s help with everything from traditional Tex Mex to a variety of delectable regional foods of Mexico to volumes about tequila and margaritas.

Th ere are imported items for authentic entertaining, too, such as colorful heavy glasswear in a number of colors and styles.

Casa Ramirez is operated by Macario and Chrissie Ramirez at 241 W. 19th St. in the Heights; phone 713-880-2420. To follow its special events, like the Casa Ramirez Facebook page.

Spotlight: Casa Ramirez

Th e head-to-tail concept of eating everything on an animal has become trendy, with gour-met menus highlighting their “off al” off erings of organ meats. But – out of necessity – this was a common way of eating in the Mexican kitchens that gave birth to Tex-Mex food.

And you’ll fi nd many “off al” items on Tex-Mex and Mexican menus in Leader neighborhoods – from fancy restaurants to taco trucks. Here’s a primer:

LENGUA: Stewed cow’s tongue, suitably seasoned and chopped, is frequently found in tacos.

TRIPA: Tripe, or the inner lining of a cow’s stomach, is most famously found as the main ingredient in menudo, a popular soup or stew that features a red chile-based broth and hominy, with add-ons of lime, chopped onions and oregano. Widely regarded as an eff ective cure for hangovers.

TRIPITAS: Frequently confused with tripa, tripitas are actually the Tex-Mex equivalent of soul food’s chitlins –– boiled or fried lower intestines of a pig, usually chopped into taco fi lling.

CHICHARRONES: Pork skin, seasoned and deep fried (sometimes then stewed), served as a main dish or as a taco fi lling.

BARBACOA: Often mistaken for “barbecue,” the real barbacoa is actually meat retrieved from the slow-roasted heads of animals -- most com-monly cows, goats, lambs and pigs. Th is is usually a delicacy reserved for weekend menus. Many places substitute slow-cooked brisket for authentic bar-bacoa. If you want the real thing (or if you don’t), be sure to ask.

– Charlotte Aguilar

2076 W. 34th StreetHouston, Texas 77015

713-681-7641

The City of Houston has a long history of outstanding Mexican res-taurants. Don Teo’s proudly serves the traditional dishes that have made Mexican food a popular choice with Houston residents for many years. Our menu is based on the Tex-Mex style reminiscent of Houston’s former Monterrey House restaurants. At Don Teo’s you will discover a full variety of local Tex-Mex favorites with the added appeal of food that is prepared with no animal fat or lard. Flavor still abounds and you will love the low-fat chips and spicy salsa served free with each meal.

Serving Northwest Houston For More Than 20 Years

Winner of the Leader’s Favorite Tex Mex Restaurant

Fajita Pack 1 - 1/2 lbs. of Fajita Meat 1 Pint of Rice 1 Pint of Beans 1/2 Pint of Guacamole 1/2 Pint of Pico de Gallo 1/2 Pint of Hot Sauce 1 dz. Flour Tortillas 1 Large Chips All for $31.95!

Family Pack 8 Cheese Enchiladas 4 Beef Tacos 1 Pint of Beans 1 Pint of Rice 1/2 Pint of Hot Sauce 1 Large Chips All for $23.95!

www.donteos.com

Don Teo’s “Take Out” Specials!

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Offal-ly GoodA primer on the use of offbeat meats

Hugo’s on Westheimer serves gour-met lamb barbacoa, but many Tex-Mex cafes and taco trucks offer the traditional version as a weekend treat.

(Photo by Paula Murphy)

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The Best Tortas in Houston

1018 N. Shepherd Dr. (Across from Kroger)

713-862-9222WWW.TORTASELANGEL.COM

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TOP 5 FAVORITE BY POPULAR VOTEDon Teo’s Mexican Restaurant 742

Café Adobe 331Frida’s Mexican Kitchen 267

La Casa de Frida 196Teotihuacan Mexican Café 72

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