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C o m m u n i t y
social hour 20
column: kristin armstrong 30
exposed 32
TRIBEZA talk 46
A r t s
arts & entertainment calendar 34
artist spotlight 36
s t y l e
Profile in style 92
behind the scenes 98
inspiration board 102
style Pick 106
last look 120
D i n i n g
without reservations 110
featuresProfile: Jake Silverstein 50
What's the Future for Meals on Wheels? 52
Pizza Night with Tyson Cole 60
French Lessons 66
Austin Tables: TV Dinners 76
Drink Your Dessert 84
Contents m ay 2014
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TRIBEZ A
12 may 2014 tribeza.com
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Editor’s Letter
I blame my English major. Thanks to Hemingway and Fitzgerald, I fell in love with the romance of writing, and I thought that a life devoted to food writing, in particular, would be all oysters and Sancerre in Paris and train-ride picnics in the South of France. And you know what? It kind of has been that.
For most of my career, cooking and writing have been parallel tracks. As soon as I was old enough to understand that I wanted to write, I began gravitating to jobs in the food industry that would inform my craft and satisfy both loves. In other words, I set out to earn my chops.
Along the way, I’ve had some pretty great adventures and more than my share of extraordinary meals. I’ve sold melons and sweet corn at a roadside market in Iowa; cooked at a Catholic rectory for three priests and a monk; waited tables; and tended bar at a popular bistro in New York’s East Village. I spent a few years in Europe, cooking at a château in the South of France and cranking out fresh pasta at an agriturismo (a farmhouse bed-and-breakfast) in Tuscany.
These hands-on experiences fueled my desire to write about the people and the stories behind food. As with anyone, my personal history has shaped my current sensibilities.
What I love about my position at TRIBEZA is the opportunity to cover all aspects of culture, but let's face it—the food issue is right up my alley. Austin’s red-hot restaurant scene means that our culinary landscape is shifting almost daily. Because the choices we make about food provide a compelling window into our unique culture, the theme of this month’s issue is simply the way we eat now. What do our most creative chefs, sommeliers, brewers, and restaurateurs reveal about our current desires and whims?
To shed light on these questions, we talked to some of the most innovative thinkers in town. I’ve written about Tyson Cole several times through the years. He’s become a friend and a trusted industry barometer. As a cookbook author, I know that it’s interesting to talk to chefs somewhere besides their restaurants—new dimensions are revealed! So in “Pizza Night with Tyson Cole” (page 60), we talked about our local food scene while he prepared dinner for his family at home.
Beginning in 2005 (with Lulu B’s and Flip Happy, remember?) Austin led the charge with the food truck craze, but what’s its current pulse? In “What's the Future of Meals on Wheels?”(page 52), Elizabeth Winslow revisits the mobile food scene and asks two key players to predict the road ahead.
Like other Francophiles, I’ve been anticipating the opening of laV, a gorgeous new restaurant in East Austin. In “French Lessons” (page 66), writer S. Kirk Walsh talks with the restaurant’s talented female crew and discovers how they meld the soulful satisfaction of, say, a perfectly roasted chicken with one of the most sophisticated settings in town. The entire TRIBEZA staff is smitten with partner Vilma Maizate’s impeccable style, so styling her for that feature was a joy (Vilma, you make anything look good!).
Shrimp tacos, barbecue, and messy burgers from the Counter Cafe are among the foods that Jake Silverstein (page 50) will miss about life in Austin. On the brink of moving east, the newly minted editor of the New York Times Magazine took time out to chat about his impressive post (thanks Jake, and congrats!).
I confess that the way to my heart is not through overt flourishes or ego-driven plates. I’ll choose a wood-fired pizza, wine sipped from a mason jar (I’m talking to you, Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza!) and good company over a multi-course tasting menu and a dizzying array of small plates any day. Life is complicated enough; I don’t necessarily need to be challenged at the dinner table. For that reason, we honor local artisans who have devoted their days to the noble craft of coffee, beer, killer sandwiches, and pizzas to plan a day around. Thanks to all for making life in Austin more
delicious every day.
Paula [email protected]
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in the spirit of brilliant promos, kudos to larry mcguire and jeffrey's for their traveling mar-tini wagon (with classical music!) at the recent waller creek Picnic. deana saukum and Paul qui stopped by for sips and pics at our ice cream cocktails shoot.
14 may 2014 tribeza.com
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e D i t o r ' s l e t t e r Behind the Issue
A b eh i N D T h e SCeN e S Lo o k AT T h i S M o N T h ' S T R I B E Z A Ph oToSh o oTS
food & wine's best new chef Paul qui and deana saukam stopped by our shoot to pose for a couple of portraits (and a selfie or two).
husband and wife pho-to team adam vorhees and robin finlay set up our first cocktail shot of the morning.
the beet sidecar was the favorite drink of the shoot. we couldn't stop sneaking bites of home-made beet ice cream and candied grapefruit rinds.
the masterminds behind the cocktail recipes, rachel delrocco (left) and monica glenn (right), made sure each drink was made to perfection.
(Left) photographer Jessica pages captur-ing the energetic guys at Kyoten. (right) Kyoten's unoffical mascot, a sweet akita named Baku.
Our favorite instagram shot of the month: Vilma mazaite during our dreamy shoot at laV. Follow us on instagram @tribeza.
set up of the cobbler cocktail fixings before the mixing began. the secret ingredient at qui? house made strawberry-ginger-beer jam.
adam, robin and our art director, ashley Horsley check placement and lighting after each shot.
tricks of the trade: robin holds dry ice over the drink in between shots to make sure the glass stays cold and frosty.
Photog r a Phy by b ill sa ll a n s & j essic a Pag es16 may 2014 tribeza.com
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Columnist kristin armstrong
illustrAtorjoy gallagher
Writersemma banksjessica dupuyjaime netzers. kirk walshelizabeth winslow
PhotogrAPherszach andersonmiguel angelkate lesueurleann muellermichael a. mullerwynn myersleah overstreetjessica Pagesjohn Pesinadagny Piaseckibill sallansadam vorheesthomas winslow
mailing address 706a west 34th streetaustin, texas 78705
ph (512) 474 4711 | fax (512) 474 4715www.tribeza.com
founded in march 2001, TRIBEZA is austin's leading locally-owned arts and culture magazine.
Printed by csi Printing and mailing
copyright @ 2014 by TRIBEZA. all rights reserved. reproduction, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of the publisher, is prohibited.
TRIBEZA is a proud member of the austin chamber of commerce.
a u s t i n a r t s + c u lt u r e
PuBlishergeorge t. elliman
eDitor-in-ChiefPaula disbrowe
Art DireCtorashley horsley
events + mArketing
CoorDinAtor staley hawkins
senior ACCountexeCutives
ashley beallandrea brunnerlindsey harvey
PrinCiPAlsgeorge t. elliman
chuck sackvance sack
michael torres
internshayley albrecht
emma banks christina ewin
harrison robinson
the mark of responsible forestry
gables.com/parktower
866.995.0871111 Sandra Muraida Way | Austin, TX 78703
Brand New Boutique Apartment Community
ELEMENTBE IN YOURIN DOWNTOWN AUSTIN
18 may 2014 tribeza.com
social hour A u s t i n
Photog r a Phy by m ig u el a ng el
Social Hour
TRIBEZA march music series:sideroom socialTRIBEZA kicked off the March Music Series at the candlelit side room of Billy Reid. the first act of the night was artist-on-the-rise chris denny. act two was local favorite dan dyer, who has been a staple of the texas music scene for over 15 years. clark's oyster bar prepared oysters and shrimp toast and drinks were provided by corona, modelo especial and deep eddy vodka.
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TRIBEZA march music series:Live at GarageTRIBEZA followed up its first event with live at Garage on march 13. tamika jones and ephron owens took center stage, with dinner from winflo osteria and drinks provided by deep eddy vodka for attendees. live at garage coincided perfectly with south by southwest, the music event of the year.
sideroom social: 1. Dan Dyer & Christina Shipley 2. JT Van Zandt & Chris Thomas 3. Courtney barajas & Doug koury 4. Cheryle Locke & Adrienne Pingel 5. Rachel horn, Denise Rose & bryan hebert live at garage: 6. Lindsay Singletary & Meg Fanjoy 7. David Gardner, hannah Presley & Chauncy James 8. erika bonfanti & Jeff Acton 9. Lauren Willson, Alexandra Stewart & Susie bowen 10. ephriam owens
20 may 2014 tribeza.com
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the getdown: 1. Abby Carney & Courtney Goforth 2. Dale Watson 3. Travis Sutherland & Lauren bruno 4. Martin Martinez & Tess Wallerstedt heartbreaker Banquet: 5. Ryan Grametbaur & beth bizer 6. Niclas Gillis & Josh Ratner 7. kristine Alnes & Sabine engesnes Big hair: 8. brandon Ramirez & kat Richards 9. bill & Ana Stapleton rare & fine Wine Auction: 10. Dean Dresser, Carl boisvert & Don Neville 11. Mort & bobbi Topfer 12. Susan Lilly-Delsignore & Marc Delsignore
TRIBEZA march music series: the Get downthe getdown finished up TRIBEZA’s three-week music series with musician dale watson at the Getaway Motor Club. the getdown also doubled as TRIBEZA’s 13th birthday party, complete with drinks from deep eddy vodka, colorado gold whiskey, austin eastciders, modelo and Pacifico. appetizers for guest were provided by el cubico and the Peached tortilla.
Heartbreaker Banquet at Willie nelson's ranchthe Heartbreaker Banquet has become an annual south by southwest event, hosted at willie nelson’s private “luck, texas” ranch. this year the daylong lineup combined at array of artists that spanned from americana rock to indie-folk music, featuring musicians like shakey graves, noah gunderson, and sons of fathers.
Big Hair Country Fairhosted at the beautiful Salt Lick pavilion in driftwood, the big hair country fair presented by deep eddy vodka is Creative Action's annual spring fundraiser. the event boasted all-you-can-eat bbq, an open bar, bouffant style hairdos, a vintage photo booth, an auction, and musical entertainment by the show and tellers and waterloo revival.
rare & Fine Wine auctionhosted at the Four Seasons hotel, this year's rare and fine wine auction put on by the Food & Wine Foundation, raised their two-year, matched-cash contribution to more than $130,000 for dell children's medical center of central texas.
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22 may 2014 tribeza.com
social hour A u s t i n
If you come to historic Fredericksburg
anticipating authentic German cuisine,
we will not disappoint. But further
exploration will reveal restaurateurs that
offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar
and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/
orange glaze. Tender steaks. And very naughty desserts.
All complemented by award-winning cabernets,
tempranillos, viogniers and rieslings from our numerous
vineyards and wineries. Incidentally, “Zauber” is
the German word for “magic.” Guten Appetit. ★
Vis i tFreder icksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600
Culinary
“Zauber” that goes far beyond
Bier und Brats.
exploration will reveal restaurateurs that
offer decidedly more diverse menus. Escolar
and lobster. Seared duck breast with ginger/
Texas Hill Country
— Wine Enthusiast Magazine
“One of the Top 10 “One of the Top 10 “One of the Top 10 Wine Travel Destinations Wine Travel Destinations Wine Travel Destinations in the World for 2014”in the World for 2014”in the World for 2014”
51-Tribeza-May2014-8.75x8.75-WineCuisine-Top10Travel.indd 1 3/25/14 8:27 AM
Austin film: 1. Custom artwork by hallie eubanks 2. Spring Fashions from kendra Scott 3. Models from Co Star playing cornhole 4. Models from Raven + Lily 5. Ricky hodge & Mel Martell 6. india Gail & Carly bieler 7. Justin & Athena boyd 8. Lick served a sweet cream and berries and salted carmel ice creams 9. Melinda Perez & krystal Lucero 10. Molly Purnell & Amy Freedberg 11. The dapper dudes at burro Cheese kitchen 12. balloons on the front porch of The French Legation
social hour A u s t i n
Photog r a Phy by joh n Pesin a
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13. The beautiful ladies of komen Austin selling kendra Scott mystery boxes 14. Spring fashions from Maya Star 15. DJ Nabiya de Grace 16. Purse & Clutch's stylish pop-up shop 17. Models from Sunroom 18. The lovely gals at Raven + Lily
the Lawn partybenefitting Komen Austin and the French Legation Museum, TRIBEZA’s second lawn Party combined tasty food vendors and fanciful store booths to make for one fun-filled afternoon. attendees played lawn games, snacked on gourdoughs, lick ice cream, hat creek burgers, burro's cheese kitchen, cornucopia, benji's and clif bars, all while shopping spring styles from ecetera, etc., co-star, maya star, kendra scott, Purse & clutch, raven and lily, sunroom and starling eyewear.
the frenCh legAtion is a stately example of all things
Texas. Perched atop a hill just east of I-35, the 2.5 acre park overlooks
downtown Austin with a view that is arguably one of the best in the city. It is
at once host of parties, weddings, and private events, as well as museum for
French-Texas history and cultural hub for the people of Austin.
Director of the museum Noel Freeze says she is the main liaison
between the community and the museum.
“I help our staff with event and program planning, design
temporary exhibits, give guidance over landscaping decisions, and
work with the Daughters of the Republic of Texas as they work to
restore the historic house at the museum,” Freeze said. “Each day is
different, but always very busy.”
The French Legation put down roots in Austin in 1839 when the
city was established, and 175 years later, it still holds an invaluable
place in the heart of Austin.
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tribeza.com may 2014 25
Any Baby Can: 1. Tyler & Tara Clifton 2. Margaret becker & kat Townsend 3. Casey Sherley & katie Doyle 4. Trevor & Candice boehm seton gala: 5. Vim & Malini Rajput 6. Janie brydson & Ashley Covert 7. Samantha & Stuart bernstein 8. Abby & Casey Ford Waller Creek: 9. Pam Colloff & Andy brown 10. Lisa hickey & Amanda Sprague 11. Rebekah & Tyler Dutton 12. Patty hoffpauir & Lisa Roberts
any Baby Can rockin' roundupnonprofit Any Baby Can hosted its 17th annual rockin’ roundup on march 29 to raise money for their efforts to improve the lives of texas infants. the event featured dinner, gambling, a texas-sized silent auction and music provided by cover band skyrocket.
elizabeth ann seton Board Live! Galaheld at Camp Mabry under the austin stars, guest enjoyed a lively cocktail party, elegant dinner buffet, incredible auction packages, and an after-party with dj hear no evil and live entertainment from robert earl keen all benefiting the Seton Community Health Centers and the Sister Gertrude Levy
Endowment for the Poor.
Waller Creek pop-up picnicWaller Creek Conservancy's community-wide picnic raises funds to develop the park that runs through downtown austin. Purchase a basket from participatinf restaurants like contigo and st. Phillip, beforehand and arrive the evening of ready for good food, live music, and good vibes.
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social hour A u s t i n
Photog r a Phy by joh n Pesin a & m ig u el a ng el26 may 2014 tribeza.com
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hidden music: 1. Maryam brown & Rose Reyes 2. Annette Carlozzie, Dan bullock & Sheila Youngblood 3. brian Willey & Thao Votang keith kreeger: 4. evangelina & keith kreeger 5. Jill Fanette & Sarah Miller 6. Deeyn Rhodes & Tomoko kuwahara vaca y vino: 7. brett Moore & Lucy Jolis 8. katie Angotti & Drew Ratcliffe 9. Noel & Will bridges Bob schneider: 10. emma Gordon & Jake Marx 11. Tea eiland, Dwayne Cooper & Michelle Suggs 12. Merritt knize & Jonesie Parker
Hidden musicbenefitting Conspirare, the 8th annual Hidden Music featured talents ruthie foster, eliza gilkyson, and Patrice Pike. the evening included a full open bar, seated wine dinner, silent auction, and concert.
Keith Kreeger spring CollectionUrbanspace Interiors launched Keith Kreeger’s spring collection on march 27, serving up locally-crafted treats on his new tableware. the collection is both artful and functional—the perfect combination of luxury and necessity.
Vaca y Vinothe 3rd annual Vaca y Vino presented by Lambert's was hosted at The
Bridges Ranch in wimberley on april 6. attendees feasted on argentine-style beef and wine, accompanied by live music and locally crafted beers.
Bob schneider Burden of proofbob schneider's new album is another pop-folk-rock success for this austin native. in keeping with his previous albums, Burden of Proof is characterized by musical experimentation and romantic metaphors, singing a tune straight from the heart.
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Photog r a Phy by joh n Pesin a & m ig u el a ng el28 may 2014 tribeza.com
30 may 2014 tribeza.com
IF I’m nOt mIndFuL, I can get into a rut with food. I buy the same things, I prepare the same quick meals for my kids (taco night again, my pretties . . . ), and I pack the same lunches. We even frequent the same restaurants. It’s the equivalent of a culinary Groundhog Day.
Recently my daughters had evening plans, which allowed me the rare treasure of a night alone with my son, Luke. (It was a weekday, so he was willing to acquiesce to a dinner date with his mother.) I picked him up from practice and told him to clean up and be ready to roll.
When he came downstairs, I had one of those moments, a double take of the heart. My beloved boy, the one who used to fit in the crook of my arm, sauntered into the room at fourteen years old and more than six feet tall and 190 pounds. Normally clad in clashing colors of Nike Dri-FIT fabrics, he shocked me by showing up in jeans, boots, and a very nice Ermenegildo Zegna sweater that he had clearly pilfered from his father’s closet. I closed my lower jaw and said, “Wow. You. Are. Really. Hand-some.” He flashed me his new grown-up smile, sans braces, and said he was, as always, starving.
When Luke was little we lived in the south of France. He loves the tales about our time together, the good old days before sisters, when he was the chosen only child. I remind him about how he cut his first teeth by gnawing on the end of a baguette. I tell him how he loved the beaches with stones instead of sand, and how he enjoyed going to the outdoor markets and pointing at all the gorgeous flowers and produce, asking the name of everything. He is mystified that he could understand French and English interchangeably. Luke was my main companion, since his dad traveled constantly, so we had an endless stream of chatter between us—his baby talk and my fledgling French. He was my dinner date at some fabulous restaurants and countless charming cafés. I try to explain how Sunday lunches lasted the rest of the day and no one, including
By KrIstIn a rmstrOnGILLustr atIOn By JOy G a LL aG Her
Dinner for Two
him, was ever in a hurry for them to end. I have the fondest memories of things he can’t remember, and I try to recount them often and well so they come alive for him (and stay alive for me).
I decided to honor our shared past by taking him to dinner that night at Justine’s, the popular brasserie on the east side. I should state that din-ing with Luke is not like taking an ordinary kid to dinner. He likes to try things, a lot of things, so bring your palate—and your wallet. He ordered the steak frites, which is a giant rib-eye with butter sauce on top of a pile of fries. He had two loaves of bread dipped in olive oil while we waited and I sipped a nice Bordeaux. I had the Coquilles St. Jacques Basquaise, scallops that reminded me of the many lunches we shared along the Côte d’Azur. But now, instead of sitting in a stroller or a high chair and waiting for his mother to cut his meat, he holds the door for me.
I admit to taking full advantage of the situation. Having dinner alone at a restaurant with my son means he has to talk, ideally engage in di-alogue involving multi-word answers and the posing of questions. He can’t stare at his phone, resort to derogatory banter with his sisters, or hurry to clear his plate and head back upstairs. I asked him all kinds of questions, and he asked a few in return. He scoured the dessert menu, and much to my delight chose the crème brûlée (I got one tiny bite and he inhaled the rest). We talked about memories from Europe and dreams for future travel adventures. He made me laugh and made me think. I looked at him with fresh eyes, thinking that he might one day be a decent date for someone after all.
The point of dining, after all, is not just addressing the hunger in our stomachs. The act of sharing good food, ambience, and conversation feeds the hunger of the heart—the deep desire to connect and spend time with the people we love the most.
tribeza.com may 2014 31
community C o l u m n
illus tr ation by joy ga ll ag h er For a limited- edition print , contact joygallagher@g mail .com.
community P r o f i l e
e x P o s e D
O riginally from League City, south of Houston, Amos Lowe made his way to Austin as most people do, to earn a degree at the University of
Texas. In Lowe’s case, it was one in mechanical engineer-ing, something he put straight to work with a career in commercial construction and design.
On the job, Scott Simmons, a colleague of Lowe’s, noticed his affinity for beer and challenged him to make his own at home. “That was the suggestion that changed everything,” says Lowe. “I went over to his place to make a batch with him and I was hooked.” Lowe began brewing beer every week at home, a hobby that ran strong for about ten years.
“My engineer friends and I would get out on our driveway and make a batch and drink a batch from the previous week. It got to a point where we were drinking more than we were making, so I had to keep getting bigger systems.”
But transitioning from a secure, solid career in engineering to one in brewing took a big leap of faith. He started slowly, by brewing once a week with Brian “Swifty” Peters at Uncle Billy’s Brew and Que, just for a little more experience. When the brew-ery decided to expand, Lowe was offered a job to run the brewing at the Barton Springs location, but he still wasn’t ready.
All along, the Austin Beer Garden Brewing Company (the ABGB) had been a concept brewing—pardon the pun—in his mind. Lowe and Swifty slowly began crafting the busi-ness plan, for a few years, in fact, while Lowe continued to toy with the idea of becoming a full-time brewer. It wasn’t until 2010, following a bad day at work, that he finally took the plunge. It just happened to be at the same time he was traveling to Chicago for the Craft Brewers Conference.
“I called my wife and said, ‘I’ve got to go brew beer,’ and she said, ‘Go do whatever you have to do.’ It was the best thing I could have ever heard her say,” says Lowe. “I tell people I traded money for happiness and I don’t miss the money one bit.”
Once Lowe’s plans were finalized, he gained the added bonus of having Swifty come on board with him as co-brewer. The ABGB opened in August 2013 on West Oltorf in the old Austin World of Rentals space, offering a lineup of ten lagers and ales—five mainstays and five specials that rotate seasonally. In addition to its craft brews, the beer garden offers a small menu of pizzas and sandwiches and hosts a regular calendar of live music. J. du puy
Amos Loweau s ti n b eer g a r d en b r e w i n g co.
Photog r a Phy by z ach a n der son
from engineer to craft brewer, amos lowe traded money for hap-piness, and he's never looked back.
32 may 2014 tribeza.com
9 Q u e s t i o n s f o r a m o s
What can you say about the Texas craft beer scene right now? it is honestly kind of nuts right now. People across the country in general are really into craft beer, and it feels like the overall demographic is just more edu-cated on what good beer is. with the 2013 legislative session, there were laws put in place that allowed for more growth in texas, and now it seems like ev-eryone’s opening breweries. and not just in austin. dallas, houston, and san antonio have been boom-ing as well.
The number of breweries may be increasing, but how is the quality? well, some brewers are doing better than others. but i’d say, in general, we’re doing very well. over time, we’ll see who ends up sticking around. the competition is getting so much better that if you’re not making good beer, you’re going to get weeded out pretty quick. you have to make high-quality beer to sell any.
What are the challenges in the industry? aside from making good beer, you have to figure out how to sell it, which translates to distribution and shelf space. you can make beer all day long, but if you can’t sell it, that’s a problem. we have a brew pub and we can sell our beer on the premises which means we have a built-in customer base with our brewery, with ten faucets, and as long as people enjoy it, we can be successful. but that’s not the case for everyone.
What beer or brewery inspired you to become a brewer? the brewer that inspired me was my friend scott simmons, who convinced me to start brewing at home. but the brewery i credit for my loving beer so much is live oak brewing company. i have always loved their live oak Pilz.
Who are bigger geeks: beer, spirits, or wine guys? i do think some people can be a little too into things. i say just enjoy the beverage. don’t analyze it and dissect it. i admit, we definitely do that a lot in the
beer world. but i just don’t think that’s important. i love beer. but i love what happens when people share wine, or beer, or spirits together. that’s what matters. if you treat it like it’s an exam, you miss the best part—the socializing. that’s honestly why we’re a brew pub instead of a production brewery. i love seeing people enjoy themselves.
What are you drinking when it's not beer? i drink a lot of red wine. in fact, i drink it every day. it’s my preferred beverage. right now i like malbec and spanish and italian wines. it may sound strange, but it helps keep my palate adjusted. if you’re a brewer and you drink a lot of hoppy beers, i think your palate becomes skewed a little bit. but when i drink red wine at night, it gives me a perfect reset.
What styles of beer do you prefer? i love pilsner. it’s a lager-style beer that’s perfect for the hot texas climate. i love that pilsners are simple, dry and elegant. when they’re good, they’re full of flavor. before i started abgb, i’d always order the live oak brewery Pilz. in fact, the guys at the gin-ger man always made fun of me for being in a rut because it’s all i ordered. ironically, swifty learned to brew with chip mcelroy at live oak. and he’s since taught me how to make good pilsner. i think a lot of breweries have stayed away from lager-style beers like pilsner because they are so mass-produced. for the longest time, everyone just did ales. but lagers are delicious if they’re done well.
What types of food do you like best with the beers you make? i don’t get too uppity about food pairings. espe-cially when it comes to beer. to be honest, i love sandwiches. it’s mainly what we serve at the abgb. that and pizza. right now my favorite is a good muffaletta
with a cold pilsner. the sandwich is heavy and rich, but the crispness of the beer just cuts right through it. i also love seafood. a lot of people like champagne and oys-ters, but i like my oysters with—you guessed it—pilsner.
What days of the week are you brewing and how long does that process take? What are you doing when you're not brewing? we usually brew on tuesdays, thursdays, and fri-days, which is a six- to eight-hour process in the brewhouse. when i’m not doing that, i like to play the pedal steel guitar. i’ve been playing with a band, little mikey and the soda jerks, for about seven years, and we always play the friday happy hour at the abgb.
when it comes to the hot texas climate, there's only one beer lowe picks as his all-time favorite, classic lager-style Pilsner.
e x P o s e D Amos Lowe
Entertainment Calendar
MAYCALeNDARSarts & entertainment
MusicBilly Curringtonmay 1, 8pmacl live at the moody theater
Drive-By truCkers With JD mCPhersonmay 1, 7pmstubb’s bbq
musiC for the soul PresenteD By k.i.n.gmay 1, 6:30pmspeakeasy
tom Jones may 2, 8 pmacl live at the moody theater
lone stAr JAmmay 3-4lbj library lawn
hAAm’s CorPorAte BAttle of the BAnDsmay 9, 10pmacl live at the moody theater
JAZZ BrunChmay 10, 10amhotel san jose
ingriD miChAelsonmay 14, 6pmstubb’s bbq
eelsmay 16, 8pmParamount theatre
leDisimay 17, 8pmacl live at the moody theater
Jimmy eAt WorlDmay 18, 7pmstubb’s bbq
giPsy kingsmay 21, 8pmacl live at the moody theater
CAlle 13may 25, 8pmacl live at the moody theater
the 1975 With BAD sunsmay 30, 8pmstubb’s bbq
Jimmy Buffett AnD the CorAl reefer BAnDmay 31, 8amaustin 360 amphitheater
FilmAuDienCe AWArD series: the golDen sCAlloPmay 14, 7pmgalaxy highland theater 10
mADe in texAs: future WorlDmay 21, 7pmtexas spirit theatre
lion Arkmay 25stateside at the Paramount
TheatreAlo’s the elixir of lovemay 1-4long center
eArs, eyes + feetmay 1-4b. iden Payne theatre
WAr horsemay 6-11bass concert hall
vAnyA AnD soniA AnD mAshA AnD sPikemay 28-june 22zach theatre
Comedymike ePPsmay 2, 8pmbass concert hall
Jerry seinfelDmay 3, 7pm and 9:30pmbass concert hall
ADriAn Peterson’s All Pros of ComeDymay 16, 12amacl live at the moody theater
JoAn riversmay 30, 8pmParamount theatre
ChildrenPinoCChiomay 3-4zach theatre
CAt AnD the hAtmay 3, 11amzach theatre
the sleePing BeAutymay 9-11the long center
OtherleukemiA & lymPhomA soCiety’s mAn & WomAn of the yeAr grAnD finAlemay 2, 6:30pmat&t conference center
WilDfloWer Center gAlAmay 2, 6:30pmlady bird johnson wildflower center
reD, hot & soul: the greAt ZAChsBymay 3zach theatre
2nD AnnuAl toAst to the Cure DerBy DAymay 3, 6pmtrinity hall
Austin heArt BAllmay 3, 7pmhilton austin
Al fresCo itAliAn feAstmay 6, 7pmolive & june
Best PArty evermay 9, 7pmw hotel austin
PArAmount & stAtesiDe’s AnniversAry gAlAmay 10, 6pmParamount theatre
sWing for the ArC With teD Clementsmay 19, 8amonion creek golf course
freDeriCksBurg CrAWfish festivAlmay 23-25fredericksburg marktplatz
komen Austin PerfeCtly Pink PArtymay 31, 5:30pmbrazos hall
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arts & entertainment C A l e n D A r s
r ich Garza saw a hole in the market, so he filled it. Enter the Pachanga Latino Music Festival, a fiesta seven years
young that hopes to be representative of Latin music in an industry mostly dominated by American and European indie pop, rock, and elec-tronic bands. This year, the festival has been condensed to one day densily packed with national and international acts, visual arts, and treats for the foodies—adding up to what Garza calls a complete cultural celebration. He hopes to continue to grow the audience for Pachanga, building on what has already become a convivial epicenter for Latinos in Austin.
“The Latin audience is such an interesting group and such a diverse mix of people,” Garza says. “We present cultural touch points that unite people and bring them together. This is not just for Hispanics—it’s to present Latin culture that resonates with a general audience as well.”
Among this year’s additions to the festival are appearances by national and international bands as well as the local and regional ones, and a taco tour of sorts for VIP guests, inviting VIP badge holders to taste samples from 10 dif-ferent taco purveyors and two tasting bars.
“It would take you hours and hours and miles in the car to experience what we’re bringing together in one place,” Garza says. “This is a way to let people celebrate their culture and heritage and share it with other people.”
Garza considers himself more the host of a party than the organizer of a festival. It’s a celebration, and one you won’t want to miss out on. e. BanKs
e v e n t P i C k
Pachanga Latino Music Festival
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Arts CalendarmAy 1BulloCk texAs stAtehistory museumthe mcdonald observatory: 75 years of stargazingexhibit opening, may 1through june 29
mAy 3 the ContemPorAry Austinorly gengerexhibition opening, may 3through may 31
WAlly WorkmAn gAlleryandy dixon: Pleasure studies iireception, 6-8pm through may 31
mAy 7DAvis gAllerysecond nature: new works by david everett and billy hassellartist talk, 6-8pmthrough may 24
OngOing BlAnton museum of Artconverging lines: eva hesse and sol lewittthrough may 18Perception unfolds: looking at deborah hay’s dancethrough may 18 between mountains and sea: arts of the ancient andesthrough august 17
flAtBeD Pressinterior world: etchings by julie speedthrough may 3homage: works by spencer fidlerthrough may 24
hArry rAnsom Centerthe world at war, 1914-1918through august 3
Women & their Work gAlleryleslie wilkes: optic vervethrough may 18
lorA reynolDs gAllerytom molloy: nativethrough may 10
vArious loCAtionswest austin studio tourmay 10-11 and 17-18
36 may 2014 tribeza.com
ExpEriEncE thE thrill of opEra:timElEss storiEs, bEautiful music, gorgEous voicEs. at thE long cEntEr.
AustinLyricOpera.org or 512-610-7684
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Jan. 24, 29, fEb. 1
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april 25, 30, maY 3
See allthreeoperaS
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This project is funded and supported in part by the City of Austin through the Economic Development Department/Cultural Arts Division believing an investment in the Arts is an investment in Austin’s future. Visit Austin at NowPlayingAustin.com.
M O T O R I Z A T I O N & A U T O M A T I O N S P E C I A L I S T S
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S O L A R S C R E E N S | A W N I N G S | R O L L I N G S H U T T E R S | I N T E R I O R S H A D E S | I N S E C T S C R E E N S
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‘87SINCE
tel. 512.402.0990 www.txsunandshade.com 11813 Bee Caves Rd., Austin, Texas 78738 Showroom Hours: 10-5 M-F & 10-2 Sat.
I t seems the glory days of snail mail are over, but tell that to Blanton Museum cura-tor Veronica Roberts, and she’ll likely disagree. With the opening of the Blanton’s latest exhibit, “Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol Lewitt,” Roberts and her staff
have ushered in a refreshing attitude of appreciation for the power of the pen, both among themselves and among the museum’s visitors. Since the exhibit’s launch on Feb-ruary 23, the Blanton has gone through more than 1,000 postcards, which are offered freely to guests, who may send them off as they wish.
The exhibit, which focuses on the long, intimate correspondence between artists Hesse and LeWitt, brings an intimacy to the museum that is both unique and intriguing.
“The personal aspect of the show—the celebration of a remarkable, supportive friendship—made the exhibition that much more appealing,” Roberts said. “Concep-tual art and abstract art can be challenging for people, but there’s a warmth to this show and a sense of play in both artists’ work that I think people are enjoying.”
Roberts writes more extensively about the postcards—39 of which are reproduced in the resource room of the exhibit—on the museum’s blog. Her personal commitment, inspired by the artists: sending a postcard a day to her 92-year-old grandmother.
It’s rare that such dedication to a love of pen and paper still exists, but for Roberts it’s a no-brainer: “There are very few nice things you can do for a person for 34 cents!”
Can’t argue with that. Get inspired while you still can—this don't-miss show closes on May 18. For more information visit blantonmuseum.org. e. BanKs
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"Converging Lines: Eva Hesse and Sol LeWitt" show at the Blanton
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ART SPACeS
Museumsthe ContemPorAry Austin: lAgunA gloriA3809 w. 35th st. (512) 458 8191 driscoll villa hours: tu–w 12-4, th-su 10–4 grounds hours: m–sa 9–5, su 10–5 thecontemporaryaustin.org.
the ContemPorAry Austin: Jones Center700 congress ave. (512) 453 5312 hours: w 12-11, th-sa 12-9, su 12-5 thecontemporaryaustin.org
Austin gAlleries5804 lookout mountain dr. (512) 495 9363 by appt. only austingalleries.com
BlAnton museum of Art200 e. mlk jr. blvd. (512) 471 7324 hours: tu– f 10–5, sa 11–5, su 1–5 blantonmuseum.org
the BoB BulloCk texAs stAte history museum1800 congress ave. (512) 936 8746 hours: m–sa 9–6, su 12–6 thestoryoftexas.com
elisABet ney museum304 e. 44th st. (512) 458 2255 hours: w–sa 10–5, su 12–5 ci.austin.tx.us/elisabetney
frenCh legAtion museum802 san marcos st. (512) 472 8180
hours: tu–su 1–5 frenchlegationmuseum.org
george WAshington CArver museum1165 angelina st. (512) 974 4926 hours: m–th 10–9, f 10–5:30, sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/carver
hArry rAnsom Center300 e. 21st st. (512) 471 8944 hours: tu–w 10–5, th 10–7, f 10–5, sa–su 12–5 hrc.utexas.edu
lBJ liBrAry AnD museum2313 red river st. (512) 721 0200 hours: m–su 9–5 lbjlibrary.org
mexiC–Arte museum419 congress ave. (512) 480 9373 hours: m–th 10–6, f–sa 10–5, su 12–5 mexic–artemuseum.org
o. henry museum409 e. 5th st. (512) 472 1903 hours: w–su 12–5
thinkeryAustin ChilDren's museum1830 simond avehours: t-fri 10-5, sa-su 10-6thinkeryaustin.org
umlAuf sCulPture gArDen & museum605 robert e. lee rd. (512) 445 5582 hours: w–f 10–4:30, sa–su 1–4:30 umlaufsculpture.org
arts & entertainment m u s e u m s & g A l l e r i e s
40 may 2014 tribeza.com
arts & entertainment m u s e u m s & g A l l e r i e s
galleriesArt on 5th3005 s. lamar blvd. (512) 481 1111 hours: m–sa 10–6 arton5th.com
ArtWorks gAllery1214 w. 6th st. (512) 472 1550 hours: m–sa 10–5 artworksaustin.com
Austin Art gArAge2200 s. lamar blvd., ste. j (512) 351-5934hours: tu–sa 11–6, su 12–5 austinartgarage.com
Austin Art sPACe gAllery AnD stuDios7739 north cross dr., ste. q (512) 771 2868 hours: f–sa 11–6 austinartspace.com
CAPitAl fine Art1214 w. 6th st.(512) 628 1214hours: m-sa 10-5capitalfineart.com
CreAtive reseArCh lABorAtory2832 e. mlk jr. blvd. (512) 322 2099 hours: tu–sa 12–5 uts.cc.utexas.edu/~crlab
DAvis gAllery837 w. 12th st. (512) 477 4929 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 10–4 davisgalleryaustin.com
flAtBeD Press2830 e. mlk jr. blvd. (512) 477 9328 hours: m-f 10-5, sa 10-3 flatbedpress.com
gAllery BlACk lAgoon4301-a guadalupe st. (512) 371 8838 hours: sa 1-5 galleryblacklagoon.com
gAllery shoAl Creek2832 mlk jr. blvd. #3 (512) 454 6671 hours: tu–f 11–5, sa 10–3 galleryshoalcreek.com
grAyDuCk gAllery608 w. monroe dr. (512) 826 5334 hours: w 11-6, th 4-8, f-sa 11-6, su 12-5 grayduckgallery.com
lA PeñA227 congress ave., #300 (512) 477 6007 hours: m-f 8-5, sa 8-3 lapena–austin.org
lorA reynolDs gAllery360 nueces st., #50(512) 215 4965hours: w-sa 11-6lorareynolds.com
lotus gAllery1009 w. 6th st., #101 (512) 474 1700 hours: m–sa 10-6 lotusasianart.com
monDo gAllery
4115 guadalupe st.hours: tu - sa, 12- 6mondotees.com
the nAnCy Wilson sCAnlAn gAllery 6500 st. stephen’s dr. (512) 327 1213 hours: m-f 9-5 sstx.org
okAy mountAin gAllery1619 e. cesar chavez st.sa 1-5 or by appointment(512) 293 5177 okaymountain.com
Positive imAges 1118 w. 6th st. (512) 472 1831 hours: m-sa 10-5, su 12-4
russell ColleCtion fine Art1137 w. 6th st.(512) 478 4440 hours: tu–sa 10–6 russell–collection.com
stePhen l. ClArk gAllery1101 w. 6th st. (512) 477 0828 hours: tu–sa 10–4 stephenlclarkgallery.com
stuDio 101011 west lynnhours: tu–sa 11–5 (512) 236 1333 studiotenarts.com
testsite502 w. 33rd st.
(512) 453 3199 by appt. only fluentcollab.org
WAlly WorkmAn gAllery1202 w. 6th st. (512) 472 7428 hours: tu–sa 10–5 wallyworkman.com
Women & their Work1710 lavaca st. (512) 477 1064 hours: m–f 10–6, sa 12–5 womenandtheirwork.org
yArD Dog1510 s. congress ave. (512) 912 1613 hours: m–f 11–5, sa 11–6, su 12–5 yarddog.com
Alternative Spaces
ArtPost: the Center for CreAtive exPression4704 e. cesar chavez st.artpostaustin.com
Austin PresenCe330 bee cave rd., #700 (512) 306 9636 hours: tu–f 10–6, sa 10–4austinpresence.com
BAy6 gAllery & stuDios5305 bolm rd.(512) 553 3849
by appointment onlybay6studios.com
Big meDium5305 bolm rd., #12 (512) 939 6665 bigmedium.org
ClArksville Pottery & gAlleries4001 n. lamar blvd., #550(512) 454 9079hours: m-sa 11-6, su 1-4
Co-lAB ProJeCt sPACe613 allen st. (512) 300 8217 by appointment only colabspace.org
fAreWell Books913 e. cesar chavez st. (512) 476 domy hours: mon-sa 12–8, su 12–7 domystore.com
JuliA C. ButriDge gAllery1110 barton springs rd. (512) 974 4025 hours: m–th 10–9:30, f 10–5:30, sa 10–4 ci.austin.tx.us/ dougherty/gallery.htm
PumP ProJeCt Art ComPlex702 shady ln. (512) 351 8571 pumpproject.org
roi JAmes3620 bee cave rd., ste. c
(512) 970 3471by appointment only roijames.com
sPACe 123121 e. 12th st. (512) 524 7128 t-f 10-5 space12.org
Fredericksburg
AgAve gAllery208 e. san antonio st.hours: m-sa 10-5(830) 990 1727agavegallery.com
ArtisAns At roCky hill234 w. main st. (830) 990 8160hours: m-sa 10-5:30, su 11-3artisansatrockyhill.com
freDeriCksBurg Art gAllery314 e. main st.(830) 990 2707hours: m-sa 10-5:30, su 12-5fbartgallery.com
insight gAllery214 w. main st.(830) 997 9920hours: tu-sa 10-5:30insightgallery.com
Whistle Pik425 e. main st.(830) 990 8151hours: m-sa 10-5
tribeza.com may 2014 41
Jones Center700 Congress Avenue Austin, Texas 78701Laguna Gloria3809 West 35th StreetAustin, Texas 78703thecontemporaryaustin.org
This project is funded and supported in part by a grant from the Texas Commission on the Arts and in part by the City of Austin Economic Growth & Redevelopment Services Office/Cultural Arts Division believing an investment in the Arts is an investment in Austin’s future. Visit Austin at NowPlayingAustin.com.
Director’s Circle: Michael and Jeanne Klein, Suzanne Deal Booth and David G. Booth, Michael A. Chesser, Johnna and Stephen Jones, The Still Water Foundation, Melba and Ted Whatley, Texas Monthly, Anonymous
2014 Exhibition Sponsors: Deborah Green and Clayton Aynesworth, Susan and Richard Marcus, Jane Schweppe, Diane Land and Steve Adler, Sue Ellen Stavrand and John Harcourt, Don Mullins, Austin Ventures, Amanda and Brad Nelsen, Pedernales Cellars, Gail and Rodney Susholtz, Lora Reynolds and Quincy Lee, Janet and Wilson G. Allen, Shalini Ramanathan and Chris Tomlinson, Teresa and Darrell Windham, Oxford Commercial, Vinson & Elkins LLP, Lindsey and Mark HannaAdditional Support Generously Provided By: ACL Live at The Moody Theater, Pedernales Cellars, Luxe Interiors + Design, The Texas Tribune, Hotel Saint Cecilia, Hotel San Jose, W Austin, Four Seasons Hotel Austin, The Austin Chronicle, KUT/KUTX
Support for Orly Genger provided by The Moody Foundation.
Maurizio Cattelan, Frank and Jamie, 2002. Wax and clothes. 75 5/8 inches and 72 1/2 inches. Courtesy the artist and Marian Goodman Gallery.
MAY 3 – AUGUST 24, 2014A Secret Affair: Selections from the Fuhrman Family CollectionMatthew Barney, Louise Bourgeois, Maurizio Cattelan, Katharina Fritsch, Robert Gober, Felix Gonzalez-Torres, Subodh Gupta, David Hammons, Jim Hodges, Anish Kapoor, Jim Lambie, Ron Mueck, Juan Muñoz, Marc Quinn, Charles Ray, Thomas Schütte, Yinka Shonibare MBE, Kiki Smith, Gillian WearingJones Center and Laguna Gloria
Orly Genger: CurrentLaguna Gloria
MAY 2, 2014Members’ Preview of A Secret Affair at the Jones Center 6 – 8P
[ Chef Chris ]
[ Chef Plinio ]
1900 University Avenue · atx TheCarillonRestaurant.com 404.3655 Facebook /The CarillonRestaurant Twitter@CarillonAustin
modern. sophisticated. surprising.
SERIOUS ABOUT TASTE. Our award-winning culinary team invites you to create your own tasting experience.
New small plate menus with an Austin style. Plate swapping encouraged.
[ Chef Christopher]
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k At AnD rog er Cer A miC DriPPer CuP from spartan, $42 | spartan-shop.com
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stA nD By your mug :CeRAMiCiST RYAN MCkeRLeY oN The PeRFeCT CoFFee CuPAs a maker, I approach every object from a very technical and func-
tional perspective. My perfect mug starts off as a cylinder with almost
straight sides, as wide as it is tall. Picture the profile view of this mug
filling up a square frame. These proportions create stability with no
wasted space. I consider every part of the mug that a person touch-
es. The handle should resemble a strap that would make an excellent
waist belt—no bumps or sharp edges—and feels good in your hand.
A thin, rounded rim is just as important as the handle in creating a
pleasant drinking experience. My perfect mug holds 1.5 cups of coffee.
I also want an ultra-smooth interior that’s easy to clean.
I make coffee mugs that I would want to use myself. About half the
time, I drink coffee out of my work and the rest of the time, I use cups
from my large collection of North American studio pottery made by
my friends and colleagues.
I don’t insist on “handmade.” A well-designed factory-made coffee
mug is always welcome at my house. Lately I have been using two cups
that were “made in China.” My Pantone coffee mug (137 C Melon Yel-
low) always makes me smile in the morning.
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Coffee mug, $35
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46 may 2014 tribeza.com
Jenny mulDerowner, sister coffee
seAn henryowner, houndstooth coffee
mAtt BolliCkco-owner, flat track coffee
What's your favorite brewing method?
What piece of coffee-brewing equipment do you swear by?
What's the proper amount of time to wait post-boil to pour over?
go-to bag of beans?
give me one piece of advice for mak-ing a better cup of coffee at home.
What's your signa-ture drink?
While i use the pour-over brewing method at Sister, at home i like the French press. it might not be as refined or even taste as good, but it’s simple and reminds me of go-ing camping with my family.
if you want a dramatic improvement in your coffee, grind your beans right before you make your coffee and use a nice grinder. You don't need to spend hundreds of dollars; the hario hand-crank grinder is a great starting point and only costs about $40.
You don't want to pour boiling water on your ground beans, but you want the water to be almost boiling; around 190-200 degrees. Af-ter the kettle boils i pull it off the heat and wait around 30 seconds before starting the pour.
blue bottle's Three Africans ($9.50 for 8 ounces). it's a blend of coffee from uganda and ethiopia, and it's the crowd pleaser of Sister. it's the bag i give as gifts as it will hold up nicely in any brewing method.
Get things as fresh as possible. Check the roast date on your beans (you'll get the best flavors 3-10 days after the roast date), grind your coffee right before you brew, and don't let your coffee get old sitting in a coffee urn.
NoLA iced coffee: cold-brewed with chicory, sweetened just a bit with home-made simple syrup and served with milk ($3.50)
it’s as seasonal as the coffees i like: i was into the koNe system for the Chemex for a while, then we got some new French presses with a finer filter and i loved the ease and taste of those.
A great grinder can do so much for really dialing in your coffee. At our store we have three different types of grinders, each tuned to a specific purpose—espresso, bulk grind-ing, and by-the-cup options.
ideally about 205 is a great brewing temp. Lots of kettles come with holes in the top so you can use a thermometer. but, in terms of post-boiling, once the big bubbles stop bouncing around.
Life's too short to settle for cof-fee that's last year's crop or dull in flavor: Right now i'm really into Tweed's newly arrived YirgZ, a washed Yirgacheffe from ethio-pia ($17 for 12 ounces).
Create a rhythm that's good for you. Lots of people try to make things complicated and then don't end up doing any of them.
i’d say making coffee for my wife. Not that i do anything different than usual, but it is something that i enjoy doing for her. even when she gets up before me, she’ll wait for me to make the coffee . . . and i like that.
espresso and AeroPress
Mazzer Robur e espresso grinder. Those things kill it.
even at home it is always a good plan to know the temp of your water. i gener-ally brew my pour-overs at 209 and my AeroPresses have been varying a bit, from 185-201 degrees to taste.
Anything exciting really. There is so much wonderful coffee out there.
Spend the money and buy a nice grind-er. You will be so happy that you did. Also, take your time. brewing coffee is fun. it's a beautiful part of your day.
it’s more of two beverages served side by side. My buddy Wesley borden was feeling like 10 miles of bad road. Came by the brew and brew and said, “Gimme something awesome, stat.” it was 9 a.m. Made him a cortado with Flat Track kenya kakai, poured him half a snifter of Petrus Aged Pale. Justin Cox saw it and said, “Well, that’s gotta be called the brew and brew,” so it stuck as an off-menu item.
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Coffee Q+A
tribeza.com may 2014 47
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Former Texas monThly
ediTor Jake silversTein
Takes on ManhaTTan
and The World’s MosT
FaMous neWsrooMQ & a b y Pa u l a D i s b r o w ep h oTo g r a p h y b y l e a n n m u e l l e r
S h r i m p tac o S , b a r -
b e c u e d b r i S k e t, a n d
h i S f o r m e r S ta f f at
t e x a S m o n t h ly a r e
a m o n g t h e t h i n g S
S i lv e r S t e i n w i l l m i S S
a b o u t l i f e i n a u S t i n .
tribeza.com may 2014 51
A fter a wide-ranging search that took months, on March 28 the new york times announced that Jake silverstein, who has served as the editor of texas monthly since
2008, would take the helm of the new york times magazine. his local fans and staff mourned the an-nouncement (“totally depressed,” an editor friend e-mailed), and emmis publishing, parent company of texas monthly, cast a bit of a pall on his departure by filing suit against The new york Times Company for allegedly breaching his contract with emmis.They have reason to grieve—under silverstein’s charge, texas monthly flourished and was nominated for 12 national Magazine awards and won four, in-cluding the general excellence prize. attention-get-ting features like “The 50 best bbQ Joints . . . in the World!,” were nominated for a 2014 national Magazine award. In the midst of his transition, just before he headed east, silverstein kindly took time to sit down with tribeZa and discuss his move. We’re sorry to see his creative vision leave austin, but excited about the dust that he will surely kick up in Manhattan.
First off, hearty congrats on your new post! i imagine it’s pretty difficult to turn down the New York Times. Did you jump at the opportunity, or did this move re-quire some serious deliberating?It was a tough decision. Leaving Austin, leaving
Texas, and leaving Texas Monthly is not some-
thing I had been planning on doing at all. I love
it here. So it took a lot of thought, but in the end,
this is just such an exciting opportunity that we
couldn’t pass it up.
when TRIBEZA featured you last July, you talked about how much you liked your sleepy brykerwoods neighborhood. How will you channel your inner green belt in midtown?Probably by living in Jersey.
are you working on a plan to clone Times contributor michael lewis so he can write every week?I’m hoping my good friends at A&M will handle
that for me.
is there a writer or columnist, not currently on the staff, who is a model for the kind of work you want to bring to the magazine?I tend to think that the best writers aren’t models of
other writers or of types of work. What makes them
great is the singularity of their voices. I will say that I
intend to publish as many of these kinds of voices as
I can. I love writers the way kids love candy.
which three types of stories are we going to see much less of?I’m going to refrain from answering “what’s next?”
questions until I’ve actually started.
besides finding the bathroom, what’s on your short list for your first day in renzo Piano’s new York Times building?Get Will Shortz to start giving me the answers to
the Saturday crossword on Fridays.
with your appointment, the Times plans to pull the magazine closer to the newsroom—can you elaborate on that?Not really. I don’t mean to be coy, but it would be
presumptuous of me to outline plans for this be-
fore I’m actually on the job. What I’ll say is that
the prospect of working closely with the greatest
newsroom on earth is incredibly exciting to me.
I’m still pinching myself about that.
You spent a chapter in nYC in the early nineties, when you met your wife. How did the city prepare you for your role at Texas Monthly? in turn, how have six years at TM prepared you for the New York Times Magazine?One thing always leads to another. Last time I was
in New York I was working at Harper’s, and that
certainly helped prepare me for the kind of literary
longform journalism we practice at Texas Month-
ly. My time here (eight years actually) taught me a
lot about the power of storytelling. Working with
great writers like Katy Vine, John Spong, Mike
Hall, Mimi Swartz, Pam Colloff, Sam Gwynne,
Nate Blakeslee, and the whole crew—it has really
shaped how I think about narratives. I’ve honest-
ly learned more from Skip Hollandsworth than I
could have from any journalism school. There’s
something else, too. Texas Monthly as a whole—
the spirit of the place that was instilled by Mike
Levy and imparted to me by Evan Smith—has
taught me something even more valuable: how
to create the conditions under which greatness
can be achieved. Mike demanded greatness and
so did Evan, but they did it in a menschy, famil-
ial, high-spirited way that coaxed the best out of
everyone around. Texas Monthly is a truly special
place. It’s a unique place. It’s a fun place. And if
I can carry just a small portion of that with me
wherever I go I’ll be lucky.
sure, you’re heading to the land of enviable bagels, but what tacos (or restaurants) are you going to dream about from your desk on eighth avenue? I’ll miss all barbecue and all above-average Tex-
Mex. Also the Baja Shrimp Taco at Torchy’s. Royal
Blue’s soups. Qui. The Counter Café. Fonda San
Miguel. And did I mention barbecue?
will you lament a lack of brisket features (and/or do you anticipate a flood of résumés applying for the po-sition of “barbecue editor”)?Applications have already been coming in via so-
cial media. Apparently Daniel Vaughn was onto
something.
would you wager that there’s another Texas chapter on your horizon?For sure. We still have a crumbling old adobe
house in Marfa that will keep us theoretically tied
to Texas for the foreseeable future. And the peo-
ple at Texas Monthly are family to me and always
will be. I’ll be around.
Community p r o f i l e
52 may 2014 tribeza.com
What’sthe FutureoF Meals on Wheels?H a s t H e f o o d t r u c k c r a z e r u n i t s c o u r s e , o r i s i t j u s t r a m p i n g u p ?
t w o e x a m p l e s — a n e w b i e a n d a v e t e r a n — fac e o f f to p r e d i c t t H e f u -
t u r e o f t H e “ t r a i l e r a u n t. ”
b y e l i z a b e t h w i n s lo w | p h oto g r a p h y b y j e s s i c a pag e s
Welcome to the revolution. Kyoten’s Zen gar-
den dining “room” is set with handmade
wooden tables, low, flickering lamps, and
a ceiling of stars in a twilit sky. The food is
astonishingly good—cured, marinated, and
pressed Japanese mackerel sushi topped with
a thin film of kombu, silky handmade tofu in
a sweet soy dashi, butter mochi with balsamic
cherries and vanilla-kirsch cream. It’s almost
impossible to imagine that Otto Phan’s con-
cept is a direct descendant of the question-
able tacos sold from the back of a truck at
the construction site mere blocks away, but
in the past five years, Austin has indeed been
witness to an uprising the likes of which our
culinary community hasn’t seen since the 1841
Pig War at the French Legation. From the
humble and practical beginnings of our mo-
bile food scene, we’ve eaten French crepes and
corpulent doughnuts from Airstream trailers;
Indian dosas and cream-filled cupcakes on
South Congress; meticulously sourced farm-
Otto Phan, Leo Ro-driguez and James Maiden opened Kyōten (Kee-Oh-ten), Austin’s only sushi trailer in the heart of E 6th.
54 may 2014 tribeza.com
K y ō t e n
k y ot e n ’ s g a n g o f f o u r : ot to p H a n , j a m e s m a i d e n , l e o r o d r i g u e z , a n d b a k u
t H e r e s i d e n t a k i ta , n a m e d f o r t H e m y t H i c a l j a pa n e s e c r e at u r e w H o c o n -
s u m e s n i g H t m a r e s .
to-trailer duck eggs in a parking lot; and pizza
from a wood-burning oven on wheels.
The Peached Tortilla’s Eric Silverstein has
been part of the scene since its early days. Full
of hopes and dreams and a fiery yearning to
make his mark with the recipes he grew up
eating in Atlanta, he quit his job as an attorney
in 2010 and hit the road for Texas with a few
dollars in his pocket and an idea for a brand
he hoped might be scalable. In the years since,
his trucks have come to define what’s best
about food trucks in Austin: inventive food
(think kimchi arancini balls, bánh mi tacos,
and sweet and spicy Korean wings), a visual-
ly compelling brand, and competent, friendly
service. Four years in, he’s poised to open the
brick-and-mortar that’s been part of his plan
from the beginning.
What does his particular case study re-
veal about the viability and longevity of food
trucks? Now, in 2014, after tearing down the
walls of culinary convention, where do we find
ourselves? In the rubble of a dead-end scene
that trades inventive cuisine for varying de-
gres of quality and failed business plans? Or
on the cusp of a new world order, where lower
margins and overhead leave space for entre-
preneurial vision and creativity? Two popular
players (with diametrically opposed views of
the industry) speculate on the road ahead.
tribeza.com may 2014 55
K y ō t e nKyoten serves ingredient-driven Japanese
food with a Jiro-like focus on rice. The miso
soup is made with the lees from sake-making,
and rice bowls and sushi are based on a rice
recipe perfected over years and impossible
to translate. Even the dessert—handcrafted
butter mochi—is made from sweet, starchy
pounded rice. The atmosphere is stylish and
lovely—the trailer sits in a Zen garden with
raked gravel, a fire pit, and swinging fairy
lights and lanterns.
How did the idea for Kyoten evolve?
Leo and I worked together at Imperia. We
went our separate ways a few years ago, but
always remained “frenemies,” each keeping up
with what the other was doing. Leo went on to
Sushi A-Go-Go, Kome, and Ramen Tatsu-Ya,
and I spent some time in New York at Masa
and Nobu. We’re both sushi rats, recycled
again and again at a bunch of different places.
When I came back to Austin, we reconnected
and started talking ideas.
I was pretty burned out from New York. I
thought maybe I would invest in Leo and we’d
do something small. As we talked, our ideas
grew and grew, and somewhere in there I got
my mojo back.
I was working at Uchi—it’s the most coveted
job in Austin. I thought I would stay there and
we’d do this project on the side, but this idea got
big enough that I had to leave to open it.
How did you make the decision to go with a per-
manent location with so much atmosphere for
Kyoten?
We had the trailer already. Once we started
talking about where to put it, we couldn’t re-
ally agree on the location. I didn’t want to go
into a trailer park because I didn’t want our
food to be equated with jalapeño poppers. We
are not mid-level trailer food. I wanted to of-
fer the best sushi in Austin. Leo didn’t want
to go behind a bar—he felt like we’d just be
serving drunk people out in the smoking sec-
tion. So I told him, “If you can think of a better
idea, go out and get it.”
One day, I was driving past Burro Cheese
Kitchen on South Lamar (another semi-per-
three of Kyoten’s signature dishes: battera, a cured, marinated pressed mackerel sushi, handmade silken tofu with sweet soy dashi and butter mochi with balsamic cherries and vanilla kirsch cream.
56 may 2014 tribeza.com
manent, stylish “traileraunt” built in a ship-
ping container), and I thought, “That’s it!”
Leo was over here on East Sixth looking at a
possible location behind a bar and discovered
this lot. We called the owner, who happens to
be as picky as we are, and struck a deal. Our
third partner is James Maiden—he has exten-
sive construction experience. James and Leo
built out everything you see on our lot with
their own hands.
What’s next?
This is it. This concept isn’t a stepping-stone
to a brick-and-mortar or some other business
plan. It’s not about branding or menu devel-
opment. We are going to stay here and devel-
op this concept. As far as I’m concerned, we
are only 50 percent of the way there, but it’s
all going to happen right here, in this trailer.
I’m not building a scalable concept. Kyoten
is not designed to live without us. I’m the only
one who knows how to make rice. The process
isn’t even written down. This is about quali-
ty and the best sushi in Austin. I didn’t leave
Uchi to open the Torchy’s Tacos of sushi.
How do you deliver this menu from a trailer?
We use Ramen Tatsu-Ya’s commissary kitch-
en—we don’t need a six-burner stove or a 10-
man kitchen for our menu. I can do incredible
sushi anywhere. If I had a brick-and-mortar, I’d
be putting out the exact same menu. The only
thing I’m missing is the ability to sell alcohol.
What can you do here that you couldn’t do in a
brick-and-mortar?
From the very beginning, we’ve gotten consis-
tent five-star Yelp ratings because I get to see
everything. If anything is messed up, I see it
and I can fix it. There’s an immediate connec-
tion to both food and service in this context.
Besides the Zen garden dining area, what’s dif-
ferent about Kyoten?
Chef-driven trailers are a rarity. Kyoten is to-
tally ingredient-driven. We source the best fish,
all of it sustainably harvested. There are lots of
things we don’t offer because they are not sus-
tainable—unagi and bluefin tuna, for example.
t h e P e a c h e d t o r t i l l aThe Peached Tortilla serves “thought-out,
modernized Asian food with a Southern twist.”
The new brick-and-mortar, designed by Kevin
Stewart and slated to open on north Burnet
Road in the fall of this year, will fill a niche
for affordable, hip dining options for families
with a menu of rice bowls, small plates, and
street-to-table fare.
Several concepts started out mobile and moved
into wildly successful brick-and-mortar busi-
nesses. But lots of trucks and trailers don’t
make it. What makes the difference?
The “mobile food” business model is really
challenging. It’s not a real business. The own-
er does everything—if you can’t afford to pay
people, what kind of model is that? Because
everyone with a few thousand bucks to fund
their dream is jumping into the trailer busi-
ness, and because permits for actual street
vending in Austin are almost impossible to
get and really expensive, demand for spaces
is really high. The supply is limited, so rent is
ridiculously expensive. The smarter the op-
erators are, the better the deals are, but not
everybody thinks strategically. There are a lot
of hungry operators out there, willing to take
any deal thrown out to them.
Perception is very different from reality.
Unfortunately, doing it right takes a tremen-
dous amount of hard work and dedication.
And you have to be smart. For the long haul,
you can’t have a family, you can’t have a signif-
icant other, you can’t have much of a life out-
side the truck. That rules out a lot of people.
How has your business model changed since you
started?
We don’t actually do much mobile vending
anymore. Most of our money comes from ca-
tering and special events. It’s hard to make a
living with mobile vending because we’re not
a l m o s t f o u r y e a r s a f t e r o p e n i n g H i s f i r s t f o o d t r u c k , t H e p e ac H e d to r t i l l a f o u n d e r e r i c s i lv e r -s t e i n s ta n d s i n t H e s pac e t H at w i l l b e t H e p e ac H e d to r t i l l a’ s b r i c k a n d m o r ta r r e s ta u r a n t.
58 may 2014 tribeza.com
able to collect on high-margin items like alcohol.
After a year and a half of not paying myself, I had
to get creative with this business model. We re-
branded—I hired a high-end graphic designer
and committed to doing way more than what we
could do from the truck. We have put a lot of re-
sources into catering sales.
I’ll never get rid of the trucks, though. In fact,
we might get another one soon. They will always
be an important piece of our branding. Peo-
ple want trucks at their weddings and high-end
events. As long as the mobile food scene stays hot,
we will keep getting asked to special events where
we can make money.
Do you see any big shifts coming in the near
future?
No, not really. I think there will always be new
people coming in. For most people, it’s a dead
end, but the barriers to entry are low, and hopes
and dreams are powerful. If you could see your
hopes and dreams realized for $25,000, wouldn’t
you go for it?
What would you change about the past four years?
I don’t think I’d do anything different. When I
quit my job and moved to Austin, I was so high
on myself and my idea I thought I’d be in a brick-
and-mortar in 12 months. Well, here I am, 42
months in. I think as a community, it’s made our
culinary scene more creative, but I don’t know
that it’s brought much in the way of quality to our
community.
e r i c p o s i n g i n H i s n e w, u n d e r c o n -s t r u c t i o n lo c a-t i o n t H at i s b e i n g d e s i g n e d b y lo c a l a r c H i t e c t, k e v i n s t e wa r t.
t h e P e a c h e d t o r t i l l a
The Peached Tortilla truck at the Cedar farmer’s market (before the giant line formed). An assort-ment of delicious-fries: Belgian, Bacon Jam and Sweet Po-tato. Manager Beto Solis serving another happy customer. The BBQ brisket and crunchy fish tacos are always a hit.
60 may 2014 tribeza.com
A u s t i n ’ s Acc l A i m e d c h e f d i s h e s o n o u r r e d - h ot f o o d s c e n e, w h At ’ s n e x t f o r t e A m u c h i , A n d fAc i n g t h e u lt i m At e c h A l l e n g e— co o k i n g f o r fA m i ly.
pizzanightwithtysoncole
by pA u l A d i s b r o w ep h oto g r A p h y by w y n n m y e r s
62 may 2014 tribeza.com
tribeza.com may 2014 63
The chef brushes crusts with olive oil while mini sous chefs (Amelia and Larkin) plan their attack. A flurry of pies ensue, Rebekkah serves slices and then the proud bakers gather around the table.
tyson cole is expediting dinner, but
not in his usual fashion. It’s a cool spring eve-
ning and the chef is spending a night off or-
chestrating pizza service for his five favorite
girls. Rebekkah, his pretty wife, sets the table
and sips a glass of red wine. Wound up by the
audience, Esther, their Labradoodle, makes a
few mad dashes through the kitchen, her nails
sliding on the slick tile.
Although the odds are against him, Cole
attempts to impart some culinary wisdom to
his four-year-old daughter, Amelia. “I think
too many cucumber slices might water down
your pizza, honey.” Amelia does not welcome
his suggestion.
While Cole’s daughters (Aubrie, 10, Larkin,
6, and Amelia) busy themselves with small
bowls of colorful toppings (sweet peppers,
fresh mozzarella, mushrooms, and chive blos-
soms), the chef drizzles impromptu antipasti
of artichoke hearts, sliced apples, and straw-
berries with olive oil and a sprinkling of por-
cini salt from Williams-Sonoma (“my favor-
ite new condiment,” Cole says, handing me a
plate). The simple but unexpected confluence
of sweet and savory is just the sort of culinary
risk taking that first put Uchi—and Austin’s
emerging food scene—on the map when it
opened in 2003.
You might say that Cole’s career has been
forged through juxtapositions. He’s the white
guy who speaks Japanese and trained under
sushi masters. He created a sashimi mecca
smack in the middle of landlocked Texas. And
his signature pairings of global ingredients
with traditional Japanese flavors (think goat
cheese, citrus oil, and raw sea bass) attracted
talent like chef Paul Qui, and a host of others,
who have since passed through his doors and
infiltrated kitchens throughout Austin.
And even when he’s making smiley face piz-
zas with rounds of pepperoni and basil leaves,
it’s hard to miss the precise hands and attention
to detail that have earned him a Food & Wine
Best New Chef 2005 recognition and a James
Beard Award for Best Chef Southwest in 2011.
These days Cole is rolling with life’s transi-
tions. He is moving from his West Lake home
for another location that is closer to his kids’
school and promises a less painful commute.
Partnerships with the Austin Food & Wine
Festival have made him a high-profile ambas-
sador of the local food scene. And later this
year he’ll open St. Philip, an Italian restaurant
and bakery with chef Philip Speer. While pies
bubbled and crisped in the oven, we chatted
about food and family.
Has parenting influenced your approachto food?Absolutely, making food is all about suste-
nance and health. I’ve always been focused
on that, but having children really reinforces
it. Cooking is about kindness, generosity, and
doing the best with what you’ve got. In that
way cooking is in tandem with having both
kids and guests.
You noticed that the pizzas your daughters made
are indicative of their personalities. I guess that’s true of all cooks, right?People’s personalities do come through in
what they like to eat, whether they are ad-
venturous or conservative. Larkin will eat
any color, while my oldest is terrified of color.
She likes to eat earth tones and beiges. You
see that with guests at the restaurant too. We
try to push them and expand their horizons,
while still allowing them to feel comfortable
about being there.
It must be difficult to leave the streamlined effi-ciency of your restaurants for the inevitable chaos of cooking with young kids.Restaurant execution is so hard—don’t get
me wrong, but it’s so well achieved because
it’s so very planned, and the preparation is so
specific. It’s much more chaotic at the house,
figuring out each day what the kids are going
to like, or how many snacks they’ve had and if
they’re going to eat at all. It’s a moving target.
I returned to Uchi a few weeks ago and had an amazing experience--both the food and the service were extraordinary. How have you kept the restau-rant vibrant and on top of its game?Uchi is better than it’s ever been. Both the
kitchen staff and the front-of-house staff are
killing it. The reputation that we’ve built has
allowed us to attract really great talent.
Believe it or not, upwards of 30 percent of
our guests are first-timers. We know there’s a
whole lot of people who haven’t been to Uchi.
Austin is growing so quickly that the playing
field changes by the day. There are so many
64 may 2014 tribeza.com
new people here, and so many new places to
try. In a way that’s our favorite guest—we get
to say welcome, nice to meet you, let us feed
you dinner.
In my opinion, Austin can err on the side of putting high concept before solid, back-of-house training. Any thoughts on that?Hospitality is not about pressed linens, it’s
about creating a connection and making cus-
tomers feel welcome. Budding restaurateurs
tend to wrap their minds around a concept
that appeals to them. All too often, they love
the idea of it and don’t think through the steps
that will make it successful. That’s the hard-
est part—understanding how you’re going to
hire, train, etc. It’s hard as a beginner in the
field to connect all the dots.
What did Uchiko teach you about the local food scene?That we were presumptuous to think that we
could move uptown and instantly share Uchi’s
fan base. We learned that Austin is somewhat
provincial, and not everyone in North Central
was immediately on board. People don’t nec-
essarily venture beyond their zip codes. It took
a while, and the first year was rough, but we
eventually found our local audience. Today we
really focus on the neighborhood. Those locals
are our favorite guests, and the ones we hope
become regulars.
What are three dishes you can’t take off the menu?At Uchi it’s tuna and goat cheese, hamachi
cure, and peanut butter semifreddo.
A lot of big-name chefs and restaurateurs are de-scending on Austin. How will those outside influences meld with Austin’s “keeping it local” food scene?The smart people that are coming here are
interested in understanding and fitting into
our community. Danny Meyer and his con-
cept “Shake Shack” (poised to open on South
Lamar later this year) is an example. People
coming here just to make quick cash will not
survive because of the incredible competition
we have now.
What are a few of your current ingredient obsessions? Green almonds and pears. I love the versatil-
ity of pears—they’re all over my menu. The
almonds are incredibly seasonal, but they are
extradordinary. There’s nothing like opening a
husk and finding a fresh almond that’s plump
and juicy.
What’s your perfect meal these days?I’m pretty simple--a great salad and roasted
chicken.
Your next venture is St. Philip, with chef Philip Speer. What can we expect?St. Philip will be a restaurant and bakery.
We’re testing the pastries and pizza crusts
now, and they’re phenomenal. We’ll offer dif-
ferent types of experiences that we’ll serve at
different times of the day to an underserved
area. The exciting thing for us is to try our
hand at something entirely new, an Italian
concept.
The traffic just prompted you to move from your home in West Lake to South Austin. What’s the se-cret to avoiding road rage in growing Austin?Keeping a tighter orbit to work and home, and
being able to drive places at off-peak times.
Also, having lived here for more than 20 years,
I know the secret shortcuts.
You confessed that your family are your toughest critics. How is that so?In my restaurants, the people who walk in the
door are already on board with what we do.
We’d have to work hard to disappoint them.
When you cook for your family, for the peo-
ple you love, the emotional stakes are so much
higher. Disappointing them has a much great-
er impact.
And yet, there’s no place like home, right?It’s the most fulfilling place to cook because
there are no rules, no sous chefs, and I have
complete creative freedom to cook whatever I
want. Of course, the real beauty of it is cooking
Happy Hours: For Cole a nights off-the-clock mean time for back yard tomfoolery and the pleasure of cooking for people you love.
66 may 2014 tribeza.com
FrenchLessons
by S. k i r k wa l S h | p h oto g r a p h y by dag n y p i a S ec k iS t y l i n g by a S h l e y h o r S l e y | h a i r + m a k e u p by l i n d S e y h a r v e y
W i t h a s u b t L e P r o v e n ç a L Pa L e t t e a n d a d m i r a b L e a P Lo m b , l a v u n c o r k s a n e W
k i n d o f f r e n c h r e s ta u r a n t a n d W i n e b a r o n e a s t s e v e n t h s t r e e t.
Dressed in a Rachel Com-ey dress ($442), Sigerson morrison shoes ($395), and Weimar necklace ($335) from Valentine’s Too, mazaite holds court under a field of lavender.
68 may 2014 tribeza.com
On a recent Saturday
evening, the elegant
interior of laV bustles
with the hushed but
animated buzz of the
weekend crowd. To-
night’s guests, among them a private party of
a dozen or so people, are seated throughout
the four distinct areas—tasting room, lounge,
dining room, and wine cellar. A delicate but
decisive palette of pewter, taupe, and olive
green permeates the entire restaurant’s beau-
tiful decor.
Above the full bar, an expansive black-and-
white landscape painting of a French laven-
der field at dawn seems to answer the 22-acre
Texas State Cemetery, visible through the
broad glass windows, across the street, with
its majestic live oaks and undulating grassy
knolls lined at one end with unwavering rows
of headstones. In the center of the lounge, an
enormous crystal-cut chandelier hangs from
the exposed industrial ceiling. On each ta-
bletop, simple sprays of purple lavender are
displayed in solid, charcoal-gray vases. Each
well-thought-out detail of the restaurant
seemingly represents a call-and-response of
masculine and feminine accents.
Upon our arrival, my husband and I are
greeted by laV’s managing partner and ad-
vanced sommelier, Vilma Mazaite. She is
dressed in beige cigarette-leg pants, a diaph-
anous coral blouse, and a short-waisted blue
blazer, with ballet slippers of pale pink with
navy blue noses and heels. Her presence is
warm and animated. Not surprisingly, the cui-
sine and wine of laV echo the refined atmo-
sphere of the restaurant, a deliberate tone set
by Mazaite and her team, led by owners Ralph
and Lisa Eads, and chef Allison Jenkins and
executive pastry chef Janina O’Leary.
Our meal begins with a rustic charcuterie
board, with the highlight being a chicken liver
pâté with pear compote. For an appetizer, we
try a small plate of farm egg and mushroom
raviolo with a delicate consommé, making
for a simple yet sophisticated suite of earthy
flavors. For the main entrée, my husband and
I split laV’s signature dish of wood-roasted
chicken served with salsa verde and roasted
fingerling potatoes. With a nod to the popu-
lar Zuni Café in San Francisco, Jenkins and
Mazaite voted on the wood-roasted chick-
en after the decision was made to outfit the
restaurant’s kitchen with a Wood Stone bis-
tro oven. “The preparation involves a twen-
ty-four-hour salt process,” explains Jenkins.
“ThaT ’s why The food speaks many languag-es. IT ’s very sImple, buT of course, Simple iS The haRDeST Thing To Do.”- Vilma Mazaite
tribeza.com may 2014 69
The restaurant’s elegant wine room is laV’s most intimate space for din-ing. Chef Allison Jenkins works on her prep list.
70 may 2014 tribeza.com
the epitome of French style, mazaite sports a Vince leather jacket ($1,050), lily aldridge for Velvet shirt ($80) and J. Brand white denim ($198), all from Valentine’s Too.
tribeza.com may 2014 71
in a rare moment of down time, pastry chef Janina o’leary, chef allison Jenkins, and mazaite take a seat (and get a little silly) at the bar.
72 may 2014 tribeza.com
tribeza.com may 2014 73
“Salt and time—literally that’s all there is to
it.” (Other culinary inspirations for Jenkins’s
menu include Patricia Wells, author of many
French cookbooks, such as Patricia Wells at
Home in Provence, and London’s River Café,
run by chef Ruth Rogers.) For dessert, we or-
der a sumptuous chocolate delice, sprinkled
with dainty edible violets, with a scoop of dis-
tinctive Earl Grey ice cream, and robust cups
of French-pressed Blue Bottle coffee.
As we enjoy our meal, Mazaite seamlessly
works the restaurant, chatting with dinner
guests, answering questions about the wine
list, and discreetly replacing folded napkins.
“We want to be warm and approachable,” says
Mazaite. “That’s why the food speaks many
languages. It’s very simple, but of course, sim-
ple is the hardest thing to do. It’s all about
the ingredients. You can’t hide behind sauce,
foam, or anything like that. It’s straightfor-
ward food.”
To enhance and complement the culinary
experience, guests have an opportunity to
choose a bottle or wine-by-the-glass from
an encyclopedic list, with the guidance of
Mazaite and her two sommeliers, Darren
Scott and Rania Zayyat. The wine list ranges
from more than 500 Burgundies to an unusu-
al selection of vintage Napas. “Our goal wasn’t
to have the biggest wine list in Austin,” ex-
plains Mazaite. “It’s more that we had a point
of view.” Owner Ralph Eads, a Houston-based
investment banker and entrepreneur, is a
dedicated oenophile, with a large personal
collection of his own. His vision and enthu-
siasm for opening an Austin restaurant with
a leather banquette in the bar is the perfect spot to watch the light fade; the plush and elegant dining room is the setting for a more serious meal.
74 may 2014 tribeza.com
an extensive wine program was the starting
point for all things laV. In fact, some of the
selections in the 1,200-label wine cellar and
tasting bar are handpicked by Eads himself.
Mazaite herself developed an early passion for
wine, growing up in Lithuania. She moved to
the United States in 2001, and began to work
in restaurants under Rajat Paar, Mario Batali
(at Babbo), and Paul Bartolotta in Las Vegas.
Eads owned the parcel of land on East Sev-
enth Street, and when the time came to ex-
plore the possibility of building and opening a
restaurant, he enlisted the talents of Mazaite
and Jenkins, who were then working at As-
pen’s Little Nell. Later, O’Leary was brought
onto the team, and together they worked to
make Eads’s vision a reality, creating one of
Austin’s most anticipated and elegant restau-
rants. During the coming summer, laV plans
to offer a series of wine-education classes, and
in the fall, the adjacent garden will be culti-
vated for herbs and vegetables as well as be-
ing available as a space for private parties and
banquets.
“We want to do better each day,” says
Mazaite. “We measure ourselves to ourselves,
not with who’s next door. With a new place,
there is so much we need to fix and change to
get better. You have to reinvent yourself.”
The name, laV, is a shortened version of the
French expression la vie, or “life.” “We thought
it might work because the restaurant is locat-
ed right across the street from a cemetery,”
says Mazaite, “but we didn’t want to be too
literal.” All in all, laV certainly brings some-
thing new and refreshing to Austin’s evolving
restaurant landscape. “It’s not just about the
food or the wine,” adds Jenkins. “It’s about a
whole lifestyle.”
mazaite wears a vintage designer dress with a Cosmic Code necklace ($1,315) from Valentine’s Too.
tribeza.com may 2014 75
“ We measure ourselVes To ourselVes , not With Who’s next door.”- Vilma Mazaite
76 may 2014 tribeza.com
Pass the Parmesan: Their comfort-inspired dinner in-cludes spring asparagus, an enticing bowl of spaghetti and meatballs, and cubes of crusty bread speckled with flaky salt.
austin tables
TV Dinnersb y p a u l a d i s b r o w e | p h o t o g r a p h y b y t h o m a s w i n s l o w
In Highland Hills, an impromptu dinner party serves up an Italian-inspired feast (to be eaten from your lap), free flowing
Amarone, and the chance to heckle your BFF on television.
78 may 2014 tribeza.com
When Meredith Walker lived in Manhattan
and worked as head of the talent depart-
ment for Saturday Night Live, she was
used to the random, after-hours meet-
ings that producer Lorne Michaels would
schedule at, say, one in the morning. On one such occasion, the crew
was gathered to meet a potential hire, a perky blonde named Amy Poe-
hler. The laughs came easily that night, and throughout the close-knit,
marathon workdays that followed they never really stopped. “During
show weeks at SNL, hours are intense and we spend so much time to-
gether that it feels somewhere between a slumber party and the reality
TV series Deadliest Catch,” Walker says.
She and Poehler quickly became allies. “There was just that base, dis-
tinct comfort that comes when you meet someone who will be your best
friend,” says Walker. “We make each other laugh, for sure, but there
was a deep ability to support each other in a high-stress atmosphere that
made us solid then, and continues. We are very much like sisters, and that
means we make it through very cranky, grumpy times as well as the funny,
lovely times.” To keep themselves busy during lag times on the set, they
took a knitting class, and over coils of colored yarn and flying needles, their
stories unfolded.
Among the many things they discussed were their audacious and brave
girlhood selves. They wondered how gutsy aspirations born in preteen
years too often acquiesce into something more compliant around the time
mascara emerges. A determination to reclaim and preserve that early in-
domitable spirit in other girls led to Smart Girls at the Party (amysmart-
girls.com), the blog they launched in 2008 with their friend Amy Miles.
Since then, Smart Girls has become a growing online network and com-
munity. Thanks to Poehler’s A-list celeb factor, her name gets the most
play, but when it comes to the clever content, Walker is steering the ship.
a blend of three ground meats (sirloin, lamb, and pork), chopped onion, parsley and fresh basil provide depth of flavor in designer Joel mozersky’s signature meatball recipe.
tribeza.com may 2014 79
Tom Emery, Walker, and Elizabeth Winslow sip, snack, and swap one-lin-ers in Mozersky’s kitchen.
80 may 2014 tribeza.com
The more hands, the bet-ter (meatballs are shaped and browned in a skillet before being submerged in a simmering tomato sauce). Steaming noodles are drained in an antique copper colander.
mozersky’s rich sauce is perfumed with a scatter-ing of fresh basil. Spears of asparagus are topped with feta, walnuts, and lemon vinaigrette.
Walker learned to make chess pie from her mentor Linda Ellerbee. “When I worked for Linda Ellerbee, we were close friends and she’d al-ways have me out to her home in the Berkshires where we would spend most of our time in the kitchen. That is where I made my first chess pie and I’ve been making the same one ever since,” Walker says.
82 may 2014 tribeza.com
Smart Girls is also earning industry accolades. Last
month it was honored with a Shorty Award for “Tum-
blr of the Year.” Their traveling road shows (that include
motivational talks and empowering panels) provide ad-
ditional ways for their fan base to engage (as do online
initiatives ranging from poetry contests to profiles of
gutsy stunt girls).
In 2006, after years in television, Walker was ready for
a less frenetic pace. “While I worked for Linda Ellerbee at
Nick News, I’d produced several stories in Austin using an
outstanding production company called Texas Crew,” she
says. “Through the years we’d become close friends, and I
knew I could freelance for them. I had such happy mem-
ories of Austin, I just knew it was the best place to try a
different life.”
For Walker, that translated to a place where people who
do entirely different things gather around a table and en-
joy great food and conversation. As luck would have it,
she found plenty of that. She amassed a group of friends,
met her domestic partner, Tom Emery, a tennis coach at
the South Austin Tennis Center, and together they started
cooking up a storm.
“We don’t have kids, and our relationship has so much
to do with our time in the kitchen,” Walker explains. “Tom
once spelled I’m sorry on a pita bread as an apology, using
peanut butter and a straw. Connecting over food is ever
present in our life.”
And once a week or so, she gets together with pal Joel
Mozersky, the interior design guru, for their version of
TV dinners. These casual meals provide an opportuni-
ty to catch up on episodes of Parks and Recreation, in
which Poehler stars as Leslie Knope, a midlevel bureau-
crat in the parks department of a fictional town in Indi-
tribeza.com may 2014 83
“my favorite thing about these evenings is just being with meredith,” mozersky says. His coffee table provides a laid back spot for everyone to feast and relax; Peggy, one of mozersky’s four lively pooches dreams of a dropped snack.
ana. “I love the Lou Grant/Mary Richards-ness of Ron and Leslie,”
Walker says. “Most of all, I love Leslie Knope’s optimism and deter-
mination, and the fact that Amy made Leslie Knope’s birthday the
same as mine, January 18th.”
On a recent Saturday evening, Joel simmers meatballs made of
ground pork, sirloin, and lamb in a rich tomato sauce. A large round
of sourdough is scored, brushed with olive oil, and toasted in the
oven. Their friend Elizabeth Winslow (communications director for
the Sustainable Food Center, and TRIBEZA contributor) tops spears
of blanched asparagus with walnuts, feta, fresh herbs, and lemon
vinaigrette. Amarone flows freely. “Once over dinner at Del Posto,
Mario Batali told me that Amarone is the wine that inspires conver-
sation,” Meredith says between sips.
Once the meatballs have cooked through and enriched the sauce,
they’re ladled over a tangle of noodles. Tom refills wine glasses and ev-
eryone heads to the living room to grab a seat under a gallery of vintage
dog portraits. Joel’s four real-life dogs—Alfie, Rudy, Peggy, and Cha-
Cha—hop on the couch and settle in suspiciously close to the meatballs.
Forks twirl strands of spaghetti and spear asparagus, crusty bread
sops up the rest, and laughs once again come easily. It’s a quick-wit-
ted, snarky crew, just the kind of people you want to be with when
you’re lobbing one-liners at the television. For dessert, there’s just-
baked buttermilk chess pie that Walker learned to make from Linda
Ellerbee. The easy joy of the evening makes me think of Walker’s
ultimate hope for Smart Girls—that it teaches people that you never
look stupid while you’re having fun.
84 may 2014 tribeza.com
R e ly i n g o n p u n c h y i n g R e d i -
e n t s ( b e e t i c e c R e a m , b i t-
t e R a m a R o ) , a n d a g e n e R a l
s e n s e o f w h i m s y, t h e c R e w
at Q u i s h a k e u p i c e c R e a m
d R i n k s ( j u s t f o R u s ! ) w i t h a
f R e s h u R b a n e d g e .
tribeza.com may 2014 85
D r i n k Y o u rD e s s e r t
r e c i p e s b y M o n i c a G l e n n & r a c h e l D e l r o c c o o f Q u i p h o t o G r a p h y b y a D a M V o r h e e s | s t y l i n G b y r o b i n f i n l a y
Make no Mistake—these are not your grandmother’s
grasshoppers. When we asked two talents from Qui (pastry cook
Monica Glenn and bartender Rachel Del Rocco), Paul Qui’s in-
novative fine dining restaurant, to help us kick off summer with
a few creamy, boozy cocktails, we knew they’d deliver something
extraordinary. “We don’t really have a pastry chef,” Monica ex-
plains. “I work with Paul and our chef de cuisine, Jorge Hernan-
dez, in developing the pastry menu. When we were given this
project, I pulled out all my favorite frozen goodies that we’ve been
working on, and trusted Rachel’s cocktail-building savvy to pull
it all together, which she did beautifully. ” The stunning results
rely on of-the-moment flavors showcased in unexpected ways. We
can’t think of a better way to end a meal, or kick off summer. In
other words, we’re thirsty.
cobbler JaMMakes 1 DrinkNote: A cobbler is traditionally a 19th century cocktail made with fortified wine and fruit.Monica: Strawberries recently came in season here in Texas, so I’ve been spending a lot of time preserving and jamming while the opportunity allows. At Qui we serve a strawberry-ginger-beer jam, but you can use any good-quality strawberry jam as a replacement.
rachel:A cobbler is just the perfect spring drink, refreshing and fruity. I recently saw a woman at a bar digging out the fruit of her cobbler and that’s exactly what that is supposed to be—a sunny day, porch crusher!
1 1/2 ounces London dry gin (such as Fords)1/4 ounce dry Curaçao3/4 ounce simple syrupSpoonful of strawberry jam (Qui uses a house-made strawberry-ginger-beer jam)Lemon granitaStrawberry sorbetFresh berries, for garnishCombine the gin, Curaçao, simple syrup, and strawberry jam in a cocktail shaker filled with crushed ice. Shake vigorously, then pour into an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a spoonful of lemon granita, a scoop of strawberry sorbet, and fresh fruit.
86 may 2014 tribeza.com
beet siDecarMakes 1 Drink
M: my very first job was at a novelty ice cream shop called malcolm’s, and this drink is loosely based on my favorite treat there. I love the com-bination of the bright, earthy beet ice cream with the warm caramel notes of the brandy.
r: a sidecar is a classic cocktail made with Cognac or brandy, orange liqueur, and lemon juice, and monica came up with this one substituting beet ice cream for the sweet component. It worked really well, especially with a nice, tart soda. It changed the entire drink and was just delicious.
1 ounce brandy or Cognac1/2 ounce turbinado sugar syrup3/4 ounce fresh lemon juiceSoda water3/4 ounce slightly melted beet ice cream (see note)Strip of candied grapefruit peelCombine the brandy, syrup, and lemon juice in a cocktail shaker. Shake well, pour into a wine glass, and top with a splash of soda water, a scoop of beet ice cream, and a strip of candied grapefruit peel.Note: Roasted Beet and fresh mint ice cream is available at Lick Ice Creams for $8/pint. (2032 S Lamar Blvd, ilikelick.com).
88 may 2014 tribeza.com
thai iceD teaMakes 1 Drink
M:Working in the service industry, I am no stranger to highly caffeinated, sweet and creamy Thai iced tea, so when Rachel suggested pairing it with our vanilla sansho ice cream, flavored with Japanese spice, it made perfect sense. you can also use reg-ular vanilla ice cream seasoned with a few grindings of sichuan pepper.
r: made with condensed milk, a boozy rum and spicy ice cream, this is like a Tiki-inspired break-fast-milkshake.
1 ounce El Dorado 5 year (Demerara rum)1 ounce Smith & Cross (Navy Strength Jamai-can rum)1 ounce steeped Thai tea3/4 ounce crème de cacao1/2 ounce orgeat1 teaspoon (or more to taste) sweetened condensed milkBest-quality vanilla ice creamCombine the rums, tea, crème de cacao, orgeat, and milk in a Collins glass. add crushed ice and stir. Top with a scoop of the ice cream and serve.
sbaGliato floatMakes 1 DrinkM: I have a special place in my heart for any-thing Italian and anything bubbly. an amer-icano is one of my favorite cocktails to drink and a Sbagliato (a negroni made with sparkling wine, not gin) was on our menu recently. It was a no-brainer to add a citrusy sherbet to this and make some kind of float out of it.
r: One of the first ice creams I showed Ra-chel was this orange sherbet and it was a snap for her to work it into this cocktail. I just wish she had needed more time tweaking this one, so I
could’ve had more time tasting it!
1 ounce Gran Classico (or another bitter such as Compari or aperol)1 ounce Cocchi americano Rosa1/4 ounce honey simple syrup (made with 2 parts honey to 1 part water)Sparkling wineOrange sherbetCombine the ingredients in a Champagne flute, then top with a splash of Prosecco and a small scoop of orange sherbet.
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92 may 2014 tribeza.com Photog r a Phy by w yn n myer s
Sarah McIntosh, Owner of épicerie
p r o f i l e i n style
from selecting a perfectly crisp bottle of Spanish Grenache Blanc to tracking down the richest
shade of cerulean blue paint for her daughter’s bedroom walls, Sarah McIntosh—owner of the Rosedale eatery
épicerie—knows what she likes.
It’s a sensibility evident in both the interiors of épicerie, the Paris-grocery-meets-New-Orleans-café that she
opened in late 2012, and the 1930s Cherrywood home she lives in with her husband, Jackson, and their three-
month-old daughter, Finley. “I know what I like,” McIntosh is quick to explain. “My style is clean, contempo-
rary, and elegant, with Old World character.”
Raised in Louisiana, McIntosh was educated at Austin’s chapter of Le Cordon Bleu culinary school and
vetted in externships at Thomas Keller’s esteemed California restaurants Bouchon and Ad Hoc. In Austin, she
worked for almost three years at Olivia before moving on to open épicerie, a restaurant with style and cuisine
that succinctly summarizes her culinary experience: it’s fried green tomatoes, Napa-style—familiar dishes con-
structed from high-quality and expertly sourced ingredients, all set to an effortlessly stylish background. Think
clean white Windsor-style chairs paired with simple wooden farm tables; tidy rows of hard-to-find artisanal
sundries (Santa Rosa Plum and Flowering Thyme Jam, anyone?); perfect interior lighting that feels at once
warm and crisp; and plenty of rich, timeless materials like marble, copper, and leather. McIntosh made many
of the decisions about the restaurant’s interiors herself, along with architectural design from the office of Mi-
chael Hsu.
At McIntosh’s home—a modest two-bedroom house on a quiet street—the eye for detail is carried over. Her
interior design strategy has been to spend money where it counts, on details like the perfect shade of paint or
the right texture for curtain material; it’s her attention to subtleties like this that makes the home feel both
comfortable and cohesive. Sarah and Jackson have moved slowly in redesigning aspects of the house, a lesson
in combining intentional investments with thoughtful, aesthetic-elevating DIY projects. Most recently, they
completed an overhaul of Finley’s nursery, incorporating lots of rich, dark tones, refurbished wood furniture,
and well-placed pops of yellow. McIntosh constructed a stylish glider by affixing a swivel attachment to the base
of a vintage chair. Next on the list is the master bedroom, and then, McIntosh interjects hopefully, “a kitchen
upgrade!” She rattles off names of luxury appliances, then laughs and says, “Maija Kreishman [senior architect
with Michael Hsu] said I had a knack for consistently choosing the most expensive item in any set of options.”
But beyond her Champagne taste, what’s apparent about McIntosh is the genuine curiosity that fuels her
passions, from her ad hoc design skills to the entrepreneurial vision and aesthetic that took a little bit of every
part of her past and spun it into something entirely her own. As she puts it, “I’m a fast learner. I like to jump in,
pick up skills, absorb as much as I possibly can, and then apply it elsewhere.” l. patterson
p r o f i l e i n s t y l e
1. A corner of Finley's nursery, including a DIY glider McIntosh made from adding a glider attachment to a refurbished vintage chair—"Much cheaper than buying a ready-made glider and—I think cuter," she explains. 2. Penguin classics with modern illustrated covers from Anthropologie ($18 each). 3. Finley's owl mobile from Picket Fences (1003 W 34th St., $52) 4. Kiki, McIntosh's 11-year-old longhaired chihuahua ("My first child," she laughs.) 5. In the kitchen, a copper pot rack hangs
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3.
4.
tribeza.com may 2014 95Photog r a Phy by w yn n myer s
5.
6.
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9.
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above custom concrete countertops made by McIntosh's husband, Jackson. 6. A cedar plank wall and hanging cheese boards 7. Antique wood and brass wine pitcher 8. A bouquet of fresh flowers from Trader Joe's 9. A stuffed owl from Wildflower Organics (908 N. Lamar)."We went with owls for Finley's spirit animal,"
McIntosh laughs. 10. A view of the dining room with a sleepy, "crazy, needy pit bull puppy Layla."
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A unique blend of antiques, one-of-a-kind furnishings, lighting, gifts and accessories for the home.Custom work and design services available.
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Susan Griffith | Broker, Elite 25Office 512-327-4874 x 164 | Fax [email protected] | susangriffithrealestate.com
Magnificent Waterfront Estatein Costa Bella211 Bella Riva Dr, $2,999,500www.211bellariva.ameliabullock.com
98 may 2014 tribeza.com
style b e h i n d t h e s c e n e s
C raig Collins, beverage director for the ELM restaurant
group—the geniuses behind Easy Tiger, 24 Diner, and
Arro—usually logs 12-hour workdays. But when those
days often start with wine tasting and end with training staff to
make a new cocktail he’s created, Collins insists, it doesn’t feel like
work at all. “I don’t feel like I have a job,” he says. “I’m doing some-
thing I truly love.”
True love, for Collins, started with more-fleeting desires: He freely
admits that he got into the wine business “to meet women.” When he
was still in college, he confessed as much to the owner of a winery in
an interview, and the owner, appreciative of his honesty, responded
with a job offer. It was while studying abroad in Italy, though, that
Collins got serious about wine. Experiencing a mismatch between
available funds and the many wines he wanted to try, Collins started
a club, collecting lire from his fellow travelers, reading up on wines
each week, and presenting them to the group. It was one of those
wines, Collins says, that was his aha moment. “It was a 1998 Bran
Caia Blue—a Super Tuscan from Italy that is a blend of Sangiovese
and merlot,” he says. “It was really one of those things where your
heart stops and you’re like, ‘Oh my God, this is the most beautiful
thing I’ve put in my mouth.’ It was the moment when I knew what I
was going to do for the rest of my life.”Collins’ work for arro involved creating an entirely French wine list to compliment its menu.
Craig Collins creates many original cocktail recipes—here he trims zest to infuse his own limoncello recipe.
s o m m e l i e r c r a i g c o l l i n s S P e N D S h I S DAYS S I P -
P I N g Lu S c I O u S W I N e S, I N v e N T I N g c L e v e r cO c K TA I L S,
A N D S A b O r I N g T h e O cc A S I O N A L b OT T L e O F c h A M -
PAg N e. I N OT h e r WO r D S, I T ' S A LWAYS 5 O ' c LO c K .
Grape Expectations
Photog r a Phy by le a h ov er s tr eet
tribeza.com may 2014 99
And he followed through, too. In the midst of a burgeoning career
in wine, Collins passed the Master Sommelier exam in 2011, joining
the ranks of barely more than 200 people in the world who’ve attained
the membership. If it sounds difficult, that’s because it is .Collins took
his first Master Sommelier exam in 2001. In one part of the exam, he
had 25 minutes to identify the variety, vintage, and region of six differ-
ent wines—in a blind tasting. Today, Collins’s work is less high-stakes
but just as exciting to him. “Through wine I can connect with anyone,”
he says. “It’s geology, it’s art, it’s chemistry, it’s history and business.
Having a little bit of knowledge about each one of those facets of wine
allows me to have conversations with some of the coolest people in the
world.” j. netzer
Collins is a master sommelier, a distinc-tion held by just 200-some people in the world.
Collins, shown here sabering champagne, says that champagne shouldn’t be saved for a ‘special’ occasion, that champagne itself is the occasion.
hoW to saber Wine, from craig collins:
1. chill your champagne for 24 hours. Then, 30 minutes before you plan
to celebrate, submerge the neck in an ice bin. This is the crucial step: You
want to make the glass as cold and brittle as possible.
2. gently remove the foil and find the seam on the bottle.
3. Move the saber along the seam quickly. The pressure will expel the top
of the bottle off. No saber handy? use the back of a chef ’s knife.
4. Drink up. And don’t necessarily wait for a special occasion, collins says.
champagne, especially when sabered, is a special occasion.
Finding the seam when sabering is a crucial step, but not as crucial as making sure the bottle is ice-cold.
FRESHLOCAL 500 e. 4th street | austin, tx 78701
finnandporterAUSTIN.com
Finn & Porter is fresh and modern. Locally sourced and
exquisitely presented. Known for the freshest seafood,
steaks, sushi and produce the state of Texas has to o�er.
Prepared by Chef Peter Ma�ei, with his talent for selecting
the best of the season and allowing its �avor to shine.
102 may 2014 tribeza.com
style i n s p i r a t i o n b o a r d
Since 2008, chef Alexandra Manley has been an
intrinsic force behind every eatery that restau-
rateur Larry McGuire has opened in Austin, in-
cluding Elizabeth Street Café, Clark’s, and Perla’s.
Most recently, she has been at the culinary helm
of Josephine House, the charming and elegant
establishment at the corner of West Lynn and
Waterston.
Given Manley’s extraordinary success to date,
where does this young chef get all of her energy
and inspiration? She starts close to home, with
her parents. Her seasonal approach is informed
by her family’s garden when she was growing up
in Bethesda, Maryland. Manley’s parents also
enjoyed looking for the perfect ingredient. “We
would hunt down ethnic grocery stores in search
of the best liverwurst, stinky European cheeses,
Russian rye bread, and pickled herring,” recalls
Manley.Many of the flavorful ingredients for her
farm-to-table menu are harvested directly from
the gardens that are shared by Josephine House
and Jeffrey’s. “It is so inspiring to pick something
directly from the garden and put it on the menu
a few minutes later,” says Manley. “Right now we
have beautiful lettuces and herbs. Fava beans, car-
doons, and puntarella are on their way.” K. WalsH
inspiration board:
Alexandra Manley
tribeza.com may 2014 103P h OTO g r A P h Y b Y b I L L S A L L A N S
14.
13.
aleXandra's Inspiration Board
1. old-school food writers: “richard Olney, M. F. K. Fisher, and elizabeth David. I still remember reading Alice Waters’s Los Angeles Times obituary for Olney.” 2. photo of alex’s parents, Jeff and Masha Manley, from their wedding day, September 18, 1965: “My dad is a compulsive researcher; my mother, a great improviser. he would make a big meal every Sunday and my mother would spend the rest of the week creating dinner with the leftovers.” 3. Julia child’s The French Chef: “I love watching old episodes. child’s joy is contagious.” 4. coffee: “Some days my schedule is an excuse for trips to houndstooth, Once Over, Medici, Flat Track, or brew & brew. There is only so much caffeine I can consume in a day—it is important to choose wisely!” 5. Jacques pepin’s La Technique: “A classic and a favorite.” 6. local produce: “We are so lucky here in Austin to have urban farms like Springdale, boggy creek, and hausbar, to name a few.” 7. canelé mold: “I picked this up during my travels in France.” 8. dark chocolate: “I always have a bar in my purse and several on the counter at home. The breakfast of champions is a square of dark chocolate and a cortado.” 9. Canal House Cooking, by christopher hirsheimer and melissa hamilton: “One of my favorite cookbooks.” 10. butter-knife pendant and necklace: “butter is the key, so I wear this pendant around my neck.” 11. beurre d’isigny with coarse sea salt. 12. yard eggs: “chickens eating real food of their own choosing makes for exciting egg eating.” 13. cup and saucer: essentials for cappuccinos. 14. spread from The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating, by Fergus henderson: “henderson also has a restaurant in London called St. John where I had one of the best meals of my life.”
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A D V E R T I S E W I T H T R I B E Z A | A D V E R T I S I N G @ T R I B E Z A . C O MJanuary 2014 survey results
200 Lavaca Street | Austin 78701 | traceaustin.com @traceatx
Experience TRACE showcasing the finest locally sourced and foraged flavors from
the region’s surrounding farms.Welcome patio weather and the summer of
Riesling with new warmer weather wines— enjoy all current bottles available for 25% off.*
Spring Dinner SeriesEnjoy dinner for two, just $49*
*Sunday-Wednesday only.
106 may 2014 tribeza.com
style p i c k
T he beauty of a farmers’ market is in its vibrant, just-harvested freshness—the promise of flavorful and nourishing seasonal produce. Monument Market, which opened in 2011, brought
this same pledge of freshness to downtown Georgetown. The retail market shares one over-an-acre sized city block with its counterpart, the popular Monument Cafe, as well as with its own produce and herb gardens. While most of the products (all from farms within a 300-mile radius) are sold to customers, some go straight to their kitchen.
Starting this month, the market will literally connect to the café (via a new doorway), and early this summer a smoothie bar with a range of fruit and vegetable concoctions will be added to the mix.
Monument Market covers all the bases for urban foodies, including locally grown and/or produced fruits and vegetables, olive oils, beer and wine, coffee, honey, and more. In other words, it’s one-stop shop-ping for locavore foodies.
“Monument Market is the retail version of a farmers’ market,” says co-manager Alex Weber. “If you want lo-
cally sourced produce that is seasonal and organic whenever possible, we offer that diversity for folks who can’t make it to an actual farmers’ market every weekend.”
Weber and Michelle Akindiya manage the store: he handles the marketing and sales side of things, and she’s charged with the gar-den and purchasing. Since they took over the business from founder Jeanette Murphy a year and a half ago, they’ve worked to expand the market while staying true to its commitment to sustainability.
To that end, the market holds weekly gardening classes and bi-monthly cooking classes, taught by other staff members. There’s also an in-house bread program and a grab-and-go deli that offers quick meal solutions for locals.
“I really like picking up a fresh melon that’s just ripe and warm from the sun and bringing it inside and selling it,” Perry says. “With
urban farming in general, you’re growing food right where the people are; it doesn’t get much more direct than that.” e. banks
Monument MarketA G eo rG e tow n m A r k e t o ffer s A G rowi n G b o u n t y o f fr e sh , lo c A l ly i n spi r ed fA r e .
500 s austin aveGeorgetown, TX
themonumentmarket.comPhotog r a Phy by k ate lesu eu r
the market brings the best of a weekend farmer’s market to downtown georgetown seven days a week.
monument market focuses on local and seasonal food direct
from the source.
managers alex Weber and michelle akindi-yaaim to produce quality goods that are local, seasonal, and organic. together they work to uphold these three pillars daily.
alex handles the marketing and sales side of the business while michelle is in charge of the gardening and purchasing.
. .
Chris Caselli Photography
MOBILE BANKING. ONLINE BANKING. AND GOOD OL’ FACE-TO-FACE BANKING.
frostbank.com
Tarrytown
(512) 473-4364
M E M B E R F D I C
Frost is here whenever and wherever you need us, with the technology you want and the service you deserve.
21st and Guadalupe Streets Free admission, donations welcomewww.hrc.utexas.edu
The World at War, 1914–1918Drawing on the Ransom Center’s extensive collections, this exhibition illuminates the experience of the war from the point of view of its participants and observers, preserved through letters, drafts, and diaries; memoirs and novels; and photographs and propaganda posters.
Through August 3, 2014
110 may 2014 tribeza.com Photog r a Phy by w yn n myer s
rather than dogmatic (they use mozzarella from Wisconsin, because they found it’s the best prod-uct for their fiery ovens).
The pizzas are named after Stanley’s girl-friends, their cows—our favorite was the Tina ($13) with extra virgin olive oil, fresh mozzarel-la, Fontina, and a shower of fragrant chopped basil (for the price of an additional topping you can add prosciutto, and that’s a very good idea). For lovers of red sauce, there’s the Dexter ($14.50), with a clean, tart, judicious smear of sauce, pepperoni, Italian sausage, sweet cara-melized onions, and spicy Calabrian chiles. There are a few unorthodox toppings—BBQ sauce and brisket—but even this seems to work in the context of mesquite and big blue sky. As any pizzaiolo will tell you, it’s not about the top-pings anyway. The most precious ingredient in Stanley’s pizza is time. The dough gets a cool, three-day, slow rise, resulting in a tangy, com-plex flavor impossible to achieve through short-cuts. Perfumed with wood smoke, blistered and bubbled—this is pizza to plan a day around. e. WinsloW
t here’s something magical that happens when you combine pizza from a wood-burning oven, cold craft beer, and a
Hill Country setting on a late-spring afternoon. At Stanley’s Farmhouse Pizza, golden sunshine casts a warm glow on hipsters in their finest ironic casual wear, aging hippies from Lakeway in tie-dye, tipsy parents and their under-super-vised children, and the occasional intrepid foodie from Waco gathered in an open-air barn and on blankets spread under gnarled oaks and pecans. The thrill of the quest and whatever unexpected turns it may take enhances the experience—driv-ing south of Austin, then down a winding gravel road to a small restaurant attached to a brewery. But there’s also slow-fermented pizza crust, chewy and slightly charred from a wood fire, and a carefully curated selection of brews (19 on tap). Like a long, languid feast in Europe, where lunch lingers more or less until dinner, there’s the luxury of an afternoon when wait-ing an hour or so for pizza that’s a million times better than it needs to be is a pleasure rather than an annoyance. And do try to be patient—
the unexpected popularity of Stanley’s (on a recent Saturday they served 1,400 people and made 430 pies) can translate to long lines. The proprietors are expanding the operation in fits and spurts, but that will take time, just like their pizzas.
Stanley’s shares the ranch property with the critically acclaimed Jester King Brewery, which frequently offers tours with tastings. As any beer geek will tell you, Jester King spe-cializes in distinctive sour brews; if you prefer a clean, crisp lager, or a glass of wine, you can get either in a mason jar at Stanley’s. If you stay long enough, you can watch the sky fade into a deep Texas twilight. Really, what’s your hurry?
The open-air restaurant is on Ceres Ranch—Stanley was the ranch’s first bull. Owners Chad and Cinnamon Nemec are committed to qual-ity, as evidenced by a menu focused on one thing. There are salads and desserts, but the message is clear: we’re all here for the pizza. In-gredients are impeccably sourced, with an em-phasis on local that is thoughtful (goat cheese from Pure Luck Dairy in Dripping Springs)
Stanley's Farmhouse PizzaI ’ v e N e v er b eeN TO h e Av eN , b u T I ’ v e b eeN TO S TA N L e Y ’ S P Iz z A .
a rustic setting is a part of the charm.
Cinnamon and Chad nemec traded real estate for a life of pies.
13187 Fitzhugh road(512) 900 9079stanleysfarmhousepizza.com
"the Penelope" is topped with smoked speck, fresh mozzarella, arugula, and tomatoes.
without r e s e r v a t i o n s
Charlotte BrighamBroker, MBA
512.423.5707 | [email protected]
Downtown Spring Condos
Travis Heights East
Westview on Lake Austin, Eanes ISD
512.473.0078 | 2727 Exposition Blvd Suite 110 | samlmajorsaustin.com
112 may 2014 tribeza.com
219 West 612 w 6th st(512) 474 2194 Lively warehouse district
hangout, with a rooftop
bar and some of the best
happy hour tapas in town.
34th street cafÉ1005 w 34th st (512) 371 3400Consistently good Ameri-
can fare that toes the
casual/fancy line—good
for weeknight dinners
and weekend indulgences
alike. Order the chicken
piccata.
360 Uno trattoria & Wine bar3801 n Capital of tX hwy (512) 327 5505Great espresso bar and a
mostly-Italian wine list,
complete with an outdoor
patio for sipping.
annie’s cafÉ & bar319 Congress ave (512) 472 1884locally-minded Ameri-
can offerings in a
charming setting; per-
fect spot for a decadent
downtown brunch.
andiamo italiano2521 rutland Dr(512) 719 3377This neighborhood
restaurant located in
an unassuming North
Austin strip mall offers
delectable, homemade
Italian fare that is fresh
and locally sourced.
apothecary cafÉ and Wine bar
4800 burnet rd (512) 371 1600 Apothecary’s soothing
ambiance and excellent
wine selection make for
a happy spot to get wine
and enjoy a quick bite with
friends.
arro601 w 6th st(512) 992 2776From Easy Tiger and 24
Diner’s ELM Restaurant
Group, this recently
opened spot offers rich
French favorites and an
excellent wine list.
asia cafÉ8650 spicewood springs rd, ste 115
(512) 331 5788Authentic Chinese cuisine in
a comfortable atmosphere.
asti trattoria408 e 43rd st (512) 451 1218The chic little Hyde Park
trattoria offers delicious
Italian cuisine, like saf-
fron risotto with seafood.
aUstin land and cattle1205 n lamar blvd(512) 472 1813The capitol's only in-
dependent and family-
owned steakhouse serves
aged beef the same way
they have for over 17 years.
Order their fresh seafood
as an appetizer and you
won't regret it.
the backspace507 san Jacinto (512) 474 9899Delicious thin crust pizza
and wine selections in a
cozy setting.
banger’s saUsage hoUse and beer garden79 rainey st (512) 386 1656Banger’s brings the Ger-
man biergarten tradition
stateside with an array of
artisan sausages and over
100 beers on tap.
bar congress200 Congress ave(512) 827 2755A classy middle ground
between Second Bar +
Kitchen, and the upscale
Congress restaurant, Bar
Congress stirs up classic
cocktails and delicious
upscale fare.
bar chi sUshi 206 Colorado st (512) 382 5557 A great place to stop when
you’re going out for a night
on the town, this sushi and
bar hotspot stays open until
2am on the weekends.
bar lamar(at the downtown whole Foods market)525 n. lamar blvd (512) 345 5000Grab a bottle and a snack
to share, then the Whole
Foods bartenders will un-
cork it and provide glasses
for you at no extra charge.
DININg guIDeDinner & Drinks
From brisket to brussels sprouts, our picks of the best places to eat and drinkAuSTIN reSTAurANT WeeK PArTIcIPANTS
Austin’s prime spot for prime steaks.We know you’ve heard about us … the food, the atmosphere, the service. Bob’s Steak & Chop House exceeds its reputation from the moment you walk in the door. Come in and see for yourself. Don’t be the last one to become addicted to Bob’s.
©20
13 B
ob’s
Stea
k &
Cho
p H
ouse
www.bobs-steakandchop.com
301 Lavaca StreetAustin, TX 78701
512-222-2627
Andy Dixon
1202 W. 6th St. Austin, TX 78703 512.472.7428 wallyworkman.com Tues-Sat 10-5 Duchess on Horse (After Velázquez), acrylic & oil pastel on canvas, 64 x 54 inches
Wally Workman Gallery
114 may 2014 tribeza.com
bar mirabeaU800 w 6th st ste 100 (512) 436 9633Another unique addition
to Austin’s dining scene
from Chef Parind Vora. A
diverse and approachable
menu with rice bowls,
sandwiches, cioppino, and
more, with a patio offering
a view of bustling down-
town Austin.
barlata 1500 s lamar ste 150(512) 473 2211 Hoppin' Spanish tapas
restaurant in a modern
South Austin setting. The
octopus is a perfect dish,
as are the potatoes bravas.
Reservations recom-
mended.
barley sWine2024 s lamar blvd st (512) 394 8150Chef Bryce Gilmore offers
small plates with locally
sourced ingredients which
pair with craft beers and
fine wines, guests sit at
communal high top tables.
benJi's cantina 716 w 6th st (512) 476 8226Rooftop dining on West
6th, Benji’s offers a fresh,
innovative approach to
Tex-Mex where seafood
and Mexican influences
adorn the menu.
bess bistro 500 w 6th st (512) 477 2377 A rustic, underground
restaurant owned by
Sandra Bullock serving
up French-inspired dishes
with Southern twists: The
fried green tomatoes are
the perfect indulgence.
blUe dahlia bistro1115 e 11th st(512) 542 9542A cozy, French-inspired
bistro serving up break-
fast, lunch, and dinner.
botticelli’s1321 s Congress ave(512) 916 1315An inviting trattoria with
warm Tuscan colors.
Small bar up front and
cozy booths in back.
boUldin creek cafÉ1900 s 1st st(512) 416 1601Affordable wholesome
vegetarian cuisine, includ-
ing soups, salads, and
sandwiches.
bUenos aires cafÉ1201 e 6th st(512) 382 1189Argentinean specialties
like meat sandwiches on
baguettes, empanadas,
and tasty pastries. Inti-
mate patio seating.
bUfalina 1519 e Cesar Chavez (512) 524 2523 Wood-fired pizza in an
elegant, trendy vibe; get
the Fresca pie.
cafÉ Josie1200 w 6th st (512) 322 9226Innovative and flavorful
plates with fresh ingredi-
ents in a quaint and inti-
mate atmosphere.
cantina laredo
201 w 3rd st (512) 542 9670
An excellent upscale
Mexican restaurant with a
late-night happy hour.
chavez111 e Cesar Chavez (512) 478 2991Local celebrity chef Shawn
Cirkiel has turned what
used to be a drab TGI
Friday's into Austin's hot-
test new dining venture.
Chavez boasts homemade
mole and tamales, and a
gorgeous view overlooking
Lady Bird Lake.
chen’s noodle hoUse8650 spicewood springs rd, ste 127 (512) 336 8889Don’t let the small size
fool you, this hidden gem
provides some of the most
authentic fresh noodles in
Austin.
chinatoWn3407 greystone Dr, (512) 343 9307 & 107 w 5th st (512) 637 8888Some of the best tradi-
tional Chinese food in
town. Fast service in the
dining room and delivery
is available.
clark’s oyster bar1200 w 6th st(512) 297 2525Small and typically
crowded, Clark’s’ extensive
caviar and oyster menu,
sharp aesthetics, and
excellent service make it a
refreshing indulgence on
West Sixth Street. Indoor
and outdoor seating is
available.
congress200 Congress ave(512) 827 2760An upscale dining expe-
rience with great wine
pairings.
contigo2027 anchor ln(512) 614 2260Ranch-to-table cuisine
and an elegant take on
bar fare.
coUnter cafÉ626 n lamar blvd (512) 708 8800It’s nothing fancy, but this
tiny shotgun-style diner
has some of the city’s best
breakfast offerings (and
the lines outside to match).
Both the pancakes and
hamburger are legendary.
coUnter cUltUre2337 e Cesar Chavez st (512) 524 1540An East Austin haven for
vegans and vegetarians.
crave340 e 2nd st(512) 469 0000A classic American grill
with a chic atmosphere
and a wide selection of di-
verse dining choices. Grab
an intimate corner table
and enjoy lunch, dinner or
happy hour!
crU Wine bar 238 w 2nd st(512) 472 9463
An excellent place for a
date; drink a bottle of
wine at one of the cozy
sidewalk tables.
cUrryosity2209 e Cesar Chavez st (512) 574 3691An exploration of aromat-
ic curries across the Asian
continent, from India to
Thailand.
v i e W t h e e n t i r e r e s ta U r a n t g U i d e o n l i n e at T r i B E z a .Co m
tribeza.com may 2014 115
darUma ramen 612-b e 6th st (512) 369 3897 Rich chicken broth-based
ramen and a simple,
veggie-friendly menu from
the owners of the popular
Kome Sushi Kitchen on
Airport Blvd.
driskill hotel bar
604 brazos st(512) 391 7162 With a blend of his-
tory, class, and charm the
Driskill Bar is unbeatable
if you want a classic, old-
school Austin experience.
dUe forni106 e 6th st ste 106(512) 391 9300Serving up Roman and
Neapolitan style pizza
from two specially de-
signed brick ovens, Due
Forni combines the art of
simple, delicious food and
timeless, easy wine.
east side king
1618 e 6th st (512) 422 5884Chefs Paul Qui, Moto
Utsonomaya and Ek Tim-
rek offer out-of-this-world
pan-Asian food from three
trailers.
east-side shoWroom1100 e 6th st(512) 467 4280Delicious vintage cocktails
in an eccentric space.
Enjoy local art, music, and
cuisine by Sonya Cote.
easy tiger709 e 6th st(512) 614 4972Delicious bake shop up-
stairs and beer garden
downstairs. Enjoy the
signature house-made
sausages.
eden east 755 springdale rd(512) 428 6500 Weekends at the farm have
never been more delicious:
Chef Sonya Cote of Hillside
Farmacy teamed up with
Springdale Farms this year
to create a (literal) farm-
to-table concept restaurant
on the East side, serving
a seasonal prix fixe menu
under a the canopy of a
majestic Texas elm tree.
el alma1025 barton springs rd (512) 609 8923Chef-driven, authentic
Mexican cuisine.
el naranJo85 rainey st (512) 474 2776Husband and wife team
Iliana de la Vega and
Ernesto Torrealba serve
up authentic cuisine from
Mexico’s interior. Dine al
fresco on the charming
Rainey Street patio.
elephant room315 Congress ave(512) 473 2279Cool jazz in a dark base-
ment; go early for an inti-
mate cocktail, or late for
jams in a packed house.
eleven plates & Wine3801 n Capital of texas hwy(512) 328 0110Specializing in New
American cuisine, tapas
and small plates, this
casual wine bar offers
over 100 fine wines from
Austin Restaurant Week
t his year TRIBEZA is proud to partner with Austin Restau-rant Week (ARW), to produce the bi-annual culinary event that takes place each spring and fall. Come hungry! The
eight days of dining during ARW’s spring season will take place on May 11-14 and 18-21, during which time Austinites can dine (and wine!) at participating restaurants for lunch, brunch, and dinner. The prix-fixe menus offer varied options that include signature dishes, all while giving back to a notable cause. Each restaurant will donate $2 from each meal to Meals on Wheels and More, which in turn funds 1 meal for a person in need. A special thank you to all the ARW Sponsors: Velocity Credit Union, Deep Eddy Vodka, Zagat, SWBC Mortgage, and Better Bronze. A complete list of participating restaurants can be found at restaurantweekaustin.com; reservations strongly encouraged. Stay up to date on Twitter @austinrestweek (#austinRW). p. disbroWe
MAY 11-14 | 18-21
116 may 2014 tribeza.com
around the world as well
as 11 different locally
crafted beer options. Dish-
es range from the most
elegant (think duck confit)
to casual perfection (the
classic hamburger).
elizabeth street cafÉ1501 s 1st st(512) 291 2881A charming French-
Vietnamese eatery with
a colorful menu of pho,
banh mi, and more. Vi-
brant and comfortable
surrounding patio.
epicerie 2307 hancock Dr(512) 371 6840A café and grocery with
both Louisiana and
French sensibilities by
Thomas Keller-trained
Sarah McIntosh.
estancia chUrrascaria10000 research blvd(512) 345 5600Austin's premier Brazil-
ian steakhouse, offering
the bold flavors and style
of Southern Brazil right
here in the heart of Texas.
Indulge in generous por-
tions of perfectly cooked
meats while experiencing
some of the best service
in town.
fabi + rosi509 hearn st(512) 236 0642A husband and wife team
cook up delicious Europe-
an-style dishes like pork
schnitzel and paella.
finn & porter500 e 4th st(512) 493 4900Recognized for its award-
winning wine list and
steaks, this Domain staple
is also the source for some
of the freshest seafood and
sushi in town. It's surf and
turf with a contemporary
twist!
fino restaUrant patio & bar2905 san gabriel st(512) 474 2905Mediterranean plates for
sharing. Sip a handcrafted
cocktail al fresco on the
lovely patio.
fogo de chao309 e 3rd st(512) 472 0220An authentic Brazilian
steakhouse that shares
the gaucho way of prepar-
ing meats. Enjoy a fine
dining experience unlike
any other with incredible
service and a well-versed,
friendly staff.
foodheads616 w 34th st(512) 420 8400Fresh, inspired sandwich-
es, soups, and salads in
a charming, refashioned
cottage and porch.
fonda san migUel
2330 w n loop blvd(512) 459 4121An Austin institution for
over 30 years, serving up
delicious interior Mexican
menu and a killer brunch.
Reservations recom-
mended!
franklin barbecUe900 e 11th st(512) 653 1187Crowned Best BBQ Res-
taurant in America by Bon
Appetit, Aaron Franklin’s
eponymous eatery is a
true Austin institution. Go
early and be prepared to
wait! (It is worth it.)
frank407 Colorado st(512) 494 6916Their official motto pro-
claims, "Hot dogs and
cold beer," and...yep, that's
basically it. Bacon-infused
bloodies, a dozen different
artisan hot dog options,
and one of the best beer
lists in town: Frank is
both a markedly more
civil alternative to dirty
downtown night and your
hangover's best friend.
fresa’s915 n lamar blvd(512) 428 5077Tasty chicken al carbon,
refreshing agua frescas,
and the best guacamole
around.
gloria’s3309 esperanza Crossing ste 100 (512) 833 6400300 w 6th st #100(512) 236 1795Perfect for a date night
at the Domain, Gloria’s
serves upscale Mexican
cuisine and a spacious
patio.
goodall's kitchen and bar1900 rio grande st(512) 495 1800 Modern spins on Ameri-
can classics and locally-
sourced veggie sides inside
the new Hotel Ella.
g’raJ mahal 91 red river st(512) 480 2255With an extensive yet
cozy covered patio, G’Raj
Mahal offers a surprising
amount of ambiance for a
food trailer.
green pastUres
restaUrant811 w live oak st(512) 444 4747Feast on continental
brunch under the patio’s
majestic oaks. Try the
milk punch: it’s legendary!
gUero’s taco bar1412 s Congress ave & 4800 burnet rd(512) 447 7688No frills tacos and one of
the most famous patios
on South Congress. Try
the Queso Flameado with
chorizo and jalapenos.
gUsto italian kitchen & Wine bar4800 burnet(512) 458 1100Upscale-casual Italian;
solid pasta specials, in-
credible desserts (orange
olive oil cake!), and an
interesting wine list.
haymaker
2310 manor rd(512) 243 6702 It's comfort food meets
sports bar meets beer
pub in Cherrywood, an
easygoing place to get a
craft beer and elevated bar
food. Get the namesake:
The Haymaker is an open-
faced roast beef sandwich,
topped with flavorful slaw,
tomatoes, a fried egg, deca-
dent gruyere sauce, and—
wait for it—french fries.
henri’s cheese & Wine2026 s lamar blvd (512) 442 3373Equal parts charcuterie,
v i e W t h e e n t i r e r e s ta U r a n t g U i d e o n l i n e at T r i B E z a .Co m
P H O T O G R A P H B Y K A T E L E S U E U R
M AY 1 1 -1 4 | 1 8 -2 1R E S T A U R A N T W E E K A U S T I N . C O M
Join us for special prix fixe menus at restaurants across town! For every Austin Restaurant Week meal purchased, $2 is donated to Meals on Wheels and More.
R E S T A U R A N T W E E K
2 0 1 4
a u s t i nP R O D U C E D BY T R I B E Z A
DINE OUT. DO GOOD.
34TH STREET CAFE
360 UNO TRATTORIA & WINE BAR
ALC STEAKS
ANDIAMO ITALIANO
BENJI'S CANTINA
BESS BISTRO ON PECAN
BOTTICELLI'S SOUTH
CONGRESS
BUENOS AIRES CAFE
CAFE JOSIE
CHAVEZ
CRAVE
DUE FORNI
ELEVEN PLATES & WINE
ESTANCIA CHURRASCARIA
FINN & PORTER
FOGO DE CHAO
GUSTO ITALIAN KITCHEN +
WINE BAR
HUDSON’S ON THE BEND
JASPER’S
LIBERTY TAVERN
LITTLE BARREL AND BROWN
MANUEL’S
MULBERRY
NO VA KITCHEN & BAR
OLIVE & JUNE
OLIVIA
PERRY'S STEAKHOUSE & GRILLE
ROARING FORK
RUSSIAN HOUSE
SALTY SOW
SEARSUCKER
SIENA RISTORANTE TOSCANA
SULLIVAN'S STEAKHOUSE
SWIFT'S ATTIC
TADASHI
TAPASITAS
THE MELTING POT
TRACE
TRIO
UCHI
UCHIKO
URBAN AN AMERICAN GRILL
WILLIE G'S SEAFOOD AND
STEAKS
WINFLO OSTERIAR e s t a u r a n t L i s t a s o f 4 . 1 5 . 1 4
PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS
BENEFITING
Reservations & Menu details available at
118 may 2014 tribeza.com
cheese, and wine shop,
Henri’s offers a cozy space
to explore new wines or
take a bottle home.
hillside farmacy1209 e 11th st(512) 628 0168Hillside Farmacy is locat-
ed in a beautifully restored
50s-style pharmacy with
a perfect porch for people
watching on the East Side.
Oysters, cheese plates, and
nightly dinner specials.
hopfields3110 guadalupe st (512) 537 0467A gastropub with French
inclinations, a beautiful
patio, and unique cocktails.
hoUse pizzeria5111 airport blvd(512) 600 4999A choice pizza place for
a spontaneous night out.
Fresh and simple. Try the
roasted olives and the kale
salad too!
imperia310 Colorado st
(512) 472 6770A Warehouse District
highlight, Delectable Pe-
king Duck and memorable
specialty cocktails.
Jack allen’s kitchen7720 hwy 71 w(512) 852 8558Savor country favorites
from Chef Jack Gilmore
on the covered patio.
Jasper’s11506 Century oaks ter-race #128(512) 834 4111The second restaurant
concept of Executive Chef
and Partner Kent Rath-
bun, delivers a unique
array of tantalizing dishes
in a comfortable upscale
setting. Go for the shop-
ping at the Domain, and
stay for a delicious dinner!
Jeffrey’s bar1204 w lynn st(512) 4775584 This historic Clarksville
favorite got a welcome
facelift last year from
Larry McGuire, all while
maintaining the execu-
tion, top-notch service,
and luxurious but wel-
coming atmosphere that
makes Jeffrey’s an old
Austin staple.
Josephine hoUse1601 waterston ave(512) 477-5584Rustic, continental fare
with an emphasis on fresh,
local and organic ingredi-
ents. Serving lunch, after-
noon snacks, and evening
cocktails, the shady porch
is the perfect spot for a
late-afternoon paloma.
JUlio’s4230 Duval st(512) 452 1040An old school, family-run
Tex-Mex favorite in Hyde
Park. Cash only! Order the
green chicken enchiladas.
JUstine’s brasserie4710 e 5th st(512) 385 2900With its French bistro
fare, impressive cocktails,
and charming décor inside
and out, Justine’s has Aus-
tin looking east. Expect a
crowd, even late at night.
kenichi419 Colorado st (512) 320 8883Popular downtown spot
for some of the best sushi
in town.
kome4917 airport blvd(512) 712 5700More than just sushi, this
eatery serves up Japanese
comfort food, including de-
licious, homemade ramen.
hUdsons on the bend3509 rr 620 n(512) 266 1369Best handling of wild
game in town—delicious
quail salad, rattlesnake
cakes and grilled venison
chops with lobster tail.
koriente621 e 7th st(512) 275 0852Healthy, tasty Korean
options like bulgogi and
curry dishes all served up
by the friendly staff.
la barbecUe1200 e 6th st(512) 605 9696In the heart of South First,
La Barbecue whips up
classic barbecue with free
beer and live music.
la condesa400 w 2nd st(512) 499 0300Delectable cocktails, tasty
tacos and appetizers,
delicious main courses,
all inspired by the hip and
bohemian Condesa neigh-
borhood in Mexico City.
lamberts doWn-toWn barbecUe401 w 2nd st(512) 494 1500Not your standard BBQ
fare, meats are given an
Austin twist, like the rib-
eye glazed with brown
sugar and mustard. Tucked
away in the historic Schnei-
der Brothers Building in the
2nd Street District.
la traviata 314 Congress ave(512) 479 8131Authentic Italian in a cozy
downtown setting; known
for their wickedly rich and
delicious Spaghetti alla
Carbonara.
lenoir1807 s 1st st(512) 215 9778A gorgeous spot to enjoy a
luxurious French-inspired
prix-fixe meal in an inti-
mate dining room and table
that seats just 34 diners.
liberty tavern500 e 4th st (512) 493 4901This Texas tavern serves
up comfort foods with a
variety of drink options
and 14 big screens to
watch your favorite games.
Located in the Hilton
Austin.
little barrell & broWn1716 s Congress ave(512) 582 1229New from the owners of
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Botticelli's, this little resto
serves New American/
comfort food. With an
impressive 24 bar seats,
they have the biggest bar
on South Congress.
lobby loUnge at the foUr seasons98 san Jacinto blvd(512) 478 4500Pass time in the luxurious
confines of the Four Sea-
sons’ lobby bar, where they
whip up both classic and
adventurous cocktails.
lUcky robot1303 s Congress ave(512) 444 8081A futuristic dining experi-
ence on Congress, inspired
by the vibrant culture and
cuisine of Tokyo.
lUcy’s friedchicken 5408 burnet rd(512) 514 0664 &2218 College ave (512) 297 2423
This year the South Con-
gress favorite opened a
new outpost off Burnet
Road. Different loca-
tion, same straight-up
Southern goodness, from
Moon pies to fried green
tomatoes to corn muffins
to the crème de la crème:
fried chicken.
mandola’s italian market4700 w guadalupe st (512) 419 9700Casual Italian fare and
a well-stocked gourmet
grocery, alongside a deli,
bakery, and espresso bar.
Grab a gelato and unwind
on the patio overlooking
the Triangle.
manUel’s310 Congress ave (512) 472 7555 &10201 Jollyville rd (512) 345 1042Definitely not your stan-
dard Tex-Mex, upscale
Manuel’s hits all the right
notes for it’s upscale Mexi-
can cuisine, cleanly pre-
sented in a classy setting.
marU4636 burnet rd
(512) 458 6200Fresh and classic sushi,
sashimi and bento boxes.
mettle
507 Calles st (512) 236 1022Created by Rainey Street
proprietor Bridget Dun-
lap, Mettle offers a diverse,
often-experimental menu
exciting for omnivores and
vegetarians alike.
moonshine
303 red river st(512) 236 9599 Both a popular din-
ner and brunch spot,
Moonshine’s decadent
Southern comfort food is
a downtown favorite.
mUlberry360 nueces st #20(512) 320 0297Mulberry is a wine bar
and New American
style restaurant that has
received praise for its
cozy atmosphere, unique
design, carefully prepared
cuisine, and an expertly
curated wine list.
S E R I E S
TRIBEZ A Spring
S W B C M O R T G A G E + F R O S T P R E S E N T
Chef Shawn Cirkiel of Olive & June
T U E S DAY, M AY 6 , 7 p mO L I V E & J U N E
3 4 1 1 G L E N V I E W AV E N U E
A L F R E S CO I TA L I A N F E A S T
Tickets $90 | tribeza.ticketbud.com/spring-supper-club
120 may 2014 tribeza.com
north11506 Century oaks ter(512) 339 4440Guests enjoy modern Italian
cuisine in a sleek interior at
this Domain standout.
no va kitchen & bar
87 rainey st(512) 382 5651Subtle design elements
make the space cohesive
and modern, and its
creative twists on classic,
comforting dishes from a
pork belly/sirloin burger
to seasonally topped flat-
bread pizza are downright
delicious.
olive & JUne3411 glenview ave(512) 467 9898Celebrated Austin Chef
Shawn Cirkiel created
this southern Italian-style
restaurant with a menu
that highlights local,
seasonal ingredients and
includes Southern and
some Northern Italian
favorites.
olivia 2043 s lamar blvd
(512) 804 2700A brunch favorite em-
phasizing fresh and local
produce; an exciting and
diverse menu, from foie
gras to French toast.
paggi hoUse200 lee barton Dr(512) 473 3700Eclectic fine dining in an
inviting setting of one of
Austin’s famous landmark
homes. A spacious patio
overlooks Lady Bird Lake.
parkside301 e 6th st(512) 474 9898This downtown spot is
crowded, but the happy
hour–with half-price oys-
ters and tasty cocktails—is
a local favorite.
pÉchÉ208 w 4th st (512) 494 4011Enjoy prohibition-style
cocktails at Austin’s first
absinthe bar, alongside
standout dishes of smoked
duck salad and citrus-
dusted salmon.
pelons802 red river st (512) 243 7874Elegant Mexican cuisine
in a rustic home with an
enchanting patio.
perla’s seafood & oyster bar1400 s Congress ave(512) 291 7300A South Congress staple:
Expect the freshest fish
and oysters flown in daily
from both coasts, carefully
prepared with simple yet
elegant flavors. Go early
on a nice day to eat oysters
and people-watch on their
fantastic front porch.
perry’s steakhoUse & grille114 w 7th st(512) 474 6300Located downtown in the
historic Norwood Tower,
within easy walking dis-
tance of the Capital Com-
plex and other downtown
landmarks. This location
features unique décor,
patio seating and Perry’s
award-winning menu.
pinthoUse pizza
4729 burnet rd (512) 436 9605 Was there every anything
better than pizza and
beer? A welcome addition
to North Burnet, Pint-
house offers house-brewed
beer on draft, consistent
pies, and great lunch
specials.
polvo’s
2004 s 1st st(512) 441 5446Between the salsa bar,
patio seating, and deli-
cious margaritas, this is
one of Austin’s beloved
Tex-Mex icons.
QUattro gatti ristorante908 Congress ave(512) 476 3131Downtown Italian restau-
rant dishing up delicious
antipasti and huge por-
tions of Italian fare; great
date-night spot.
QUi 1600 e 6th st(512) 436 9626 Chef Paul Qui’s new HQ
is one of the hottest new
spots in town for Japanese
food: an unparalleled
dining experience set
under an airy, beautiful
backdrop.
ramen tatsU-ya 8557 research blvd ste 126 (512) 339 0855Japanese comfort food at
its finest in Austin’s first
brick and mortar, ramen-
centric eatery.
ranch 616616 nueces st(512) 479 7616Eclectic and spicy! Mmm,
the crispy oysters, or the
Ranch Slice of Ice, best
in town.
roaring fork701 Congress ave(512) 583 0000Great spot for lunch with
coworkers or an elegant
night out with friends and
family.
rUssian hoUse307 e 5th st(512) 428 5442Step into Russian House
and you’ll forget you’re
even in Austin. Come
here for a slow, relaxing
evening to experience
delicious Russian cuisine,
and don’t miss out on their
many infused vodkas!
salty soW1917 manor rd(512) 391 2337Salty Sow serves up cre-
ative signature drinks,
including a yummy Blue
berry-Lemon Thyme
Smash. The food menu,
heavy with sophisticated
gastropub fare, is perfect
for late-night noshing:
think triple-fried duck fat
fries and crispy Brussels
sprouts.
salvation pizza624 w 34th st(512) 535 0076A cozy spot that serves up
delectable flavor combina-
tions of New Haven style
pizza pies in an inviting
bungalow.
santa rita teX-meX cantina1206 w 38th st
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tribeza.com may 2014 121
(512) 419 7482 &5900 w slaughter lnste 500 (512) 288 5100Fresh ingredients, tradi-
tional recipes, and out-
standing margaritas com-
bined with bright décor,
attentive service, and solid
menu offerings.
searsUcker 415 Colorado st (512) 394 8000 Stylish Southern fare
from San Diego celebrity
chef Brian Malarkey. Go
for the decadent small
plates: duck fat fries
with tomato jam and
prosciutto "dust," farm
bird lollipops with bleu
cheese, and the “cowboy
caviar.”
second bar + kitchen200 Congress ave(512) 827 2750Another venture from
Chef David Bull, Second
offers a swanky bistro
experience in the heart of
the 2nd Street District.
siena ristorante toscana6203 Capital of tx hwy (512) 349 7667Set in a Tuscan-style villa,
Siena captures the essence
of its namesake region.
soUth congress cafÉ 1600 s Congress ave(512) 447 3905
A south Austin hotspot,
we recommend South
Congress Café’s legend-
ary brunch: carrot cake
French toast and migas
are to die for.
stUbb’s bbQ801 red river st (512) 480 8341Known for its legendary
music venue as much as its
barbecue, which is tradi-
tional and satisfying.
sUllivan’s steakhoUse300 Colorado ste 200(512) 495 6504A fantastic steakhouse in
the heart of downtown
Austin. Reservations
recommended.
sWay1417 s 1st st(512) 326 1999The culinary masterminds
behind La Condesa cook
up Thai cuisine with a
modern twist. An intimate
outdoor area, complete
with a Thai spirit house,
makes for an unforget-
table experience.
sWift’s attic
315 Congress ave
(512) 482 8842Overlooking Congress
Avenue, Swift’s Attic
draws from global inspira-
tions and serves up inven-
tive cocktails in a historic
downtown building.
tacos and teQUila507 Pressler st(512) 436 8226Chef Alma Alcocer is
serving up a taste of the
Southwest in this modern,
industrial space.
tadashi12820 hill Country blvd ste e105(512) 263 3200Upscale Japanese food
and a great ambiance
make Tadashi the perfect
spot for a date night for
those in the Bee Caves and
Lakeway neighborhoods.
takoba1411 e 7th st(512) 628 4466Bold, authentic flavors
with ingredients imported
straight from Mexico; cozy
outdoor seating.
tapasitas800 w 6th st(512) 436 9633With such an amazing
Happy Hour, this is a great
place to start your evening
with quality cocktails and
delicious tapas.
the backspace
507 san Jacinto st(512) 474 9899Exquisite pizzas hot out of
the wood-fired brick oven
straight from Naples and
classic antipasti.
the clay pit1601 guadalupe st(512) 322 5131Zip in for a buffet-style
lunch or settle in for a long
dinner of contemporary
Indian cuisine.
the doJo sake bar and izakaya 9070 research blvd(512) 458 3900 It's small plates and (in-
tentionally) slow service at
the Dojo, a new Japanese
izakaya restaurant near
Burnet and 183. A great,
vegetarian-friendly spot to
go with a group and order
everything on the menu;
all of the kimchee-rice
dishes are superb, and the
beet and avocado tempura
is a deep-fried treat worth
indulging in.
the grove Wine bar6317 bee Cave rd(512) 327 88223001 rr 620 s(512) 263 2366Lively, popular Westlake
wine bar and Italian
restaurant. The wine list
boasts more than 250
wines by the bottle.
the melting pot13343 research blvd
ste 350(512) 401 2424In the land of endless
queso, The Melting
Pot adds a whole new
perspective on melted
cheese. If cheese isn’t
your thing, they have
many entrée fondue op-
tions to choose from.
Always save room for
chocolate fondue!
trace200 lavaca st(512) 542 3660At W Austin, TRACE
focuses on responsibly-
and locally-sourced ingre-
dients from Texan farmers
and artisans. Great out-
door seating and excellent
service.
PhOTOgrAPhY bY JeSSIcA PAgeS
122 may 2014 tribeza.com
trattoria lisina13308 Fm 150 w Driftwood, tX(512) 894 3111Nestled in the Mandola
Estate Winery in Drift-
wood; expect hearty por-
tions of rustic Italian food
with a warm, welcoming
environment. Cheers!
trio98 san Jacinto blvd / Four seasons hotel(512) 685 8300This sleek space with a
lovely trellised patio and
delicious food overlooks
Lady Bird Lake from its
perch in the Four Seasons
Hotel. Indoor and outdoor
seating is available.
Uchi 801 s lamar blvd(512) 916 4808Chef Tyson Cole has creat-
ed an inventive menu that
puts Uchi foremost among
sushi spots in Austin.
Uchiko4200 n lamar blvd ste 140 (512) 916 4808The sensational sister
creation of Uchi, helped
by Top Chef Paul Qui. Try
the bacon tataki!
Urban11301 Domain Dr(512) 490 1511Unique twists on Ameri-
can classics. With robust
menus for breakfast,
lunch and dinner, this is
the perfect respite during
any shopping trip to The
Domain.
vespaio1610 s Congress ave(512) 441 6100Daily rotating menus offer
the best of the season and
the freshest from Vespaio’s
bountiful garden and local
markets. A longtime Aus-
tin favorite.
via 313 pizza1111 e 6th st(512) 939 1927Deep-dish, Chicago-style
pizza from an East Austin
food truck- perfect for a
late night out.
vino vino4119 guadalupe st(512) 465 9282 Two words, Mussels and
Fries. This classic, dim-lit
wine joint offers excep-
tional shared plates and
has the some of the friend-
liest service around.
Walton’s fancy and staple609 w sixth st(512) 542 3380This cute downtown café
serves a mean morning
shrimp and grits; your
perfect hangover remedy.
Also an array of delicious
pastries, fresh brewed
coffee and some killer
sandwiches for lunch.
Weather Up 1808 e Cesar Chavez st (512) 524 0464 Cozy and intimate
inside, and laid-back
outdoors seating, bar-
tenders create high-end,
handcrafted drinks
from scratch.
Whip in market & parloUr cafe1950 s Ih-35(512) 442 5337This funky minimart-
café satisfies keep Austin
weird with offbeat décor,
copious beer, and cheap,
tasty food.
Willie g’s401 Congress ave(512) 236 9600Nestled in the first floor of
the Frost Bank building,
this is the spot for Gulf
Coast seafood. The menu
rotates seasonally with
other local offerings.
Winebelly 519 w oltorf (512) 487 1569 Tapas on Oltorf in a cozy
setting: rich small plates
are spins on old favorites
and the wine cocktails
are a welcome surprise.
Winflo osteria1315 w 6th st(512) 582 1027Classic Italian fare made
simply and with locally-
sourced ingredients.
Wright bros. breW & breW500 san marcos, ste 105 (512) 493 0963Come for a coffee and
stay for a beer. The res-
taurant/bar serves up
simple espressos and cof-
fee from Flat Track, an
ovewhelming assortment
of craft beers, and a small
but tasty food menu in
a minimal, industrial
ambiance.
yelloW Jacketsocial clUb1704 e 5th st(512) 480 9572Step out for a drink and stay
for the classic fare, from
sandwiches to frittatas.
z’teJas grill1110 w 6th st(512) 478 5355 &9400-a arboretum blvd (512) 346 3506Austinites wait hours to
get into either the funkier
downtown locale or the
northern spot.
v i e W t h e e n t i r e r e s ta U r a n t g U i d e o n l i n e at T r i B E z a .Co m
PRESENTED BY:
Tickets and sponsorship available at
komenaustin.org/perfectlypinkparty
SATURDAY, MAY 31Brazos Hall • Downtown Austin
CO-CHAIRS: DEB DAVIS GROVES & MARTHA COONS
INVEST SPONSORS: 97 DEGREES WEST
CABIN 21 FILMSRED FAN COMMUNICATIONS
STERLING AFFAIRS
BENEFITING
PARTY
P E R F E C T L Y
124 may 2014 tribeza.com
style l a s t l o o k
With a fierce devotion to house-made
ingredients (including charcuterie, bread, and
condiments), the Noble Sandwich Company
has amassed a cult following of pastrami and
corned beef enthusiasts. We wrote about the m
a few years ago when they opened the original
location (an unassuming storefront that quickly
became an essential road trip for foodies). Since
then, they’ve expanded (a few miles down 620),
and the second restaurant on North Burnet
Road opened last month. Whether you swing by
for breakfast (try the milk biscuit with country
sausage and black pepper gravy) or lunch (for
the namesake Noble Pig—spicy ham, pulled
pork, provolone, and bacon—or a pimiento
cheese with smoked green onions, romaine,
and olive oil pickles), you quickly understand
that their sandwiches are anything but simple.
For instance, the pork in their pulled pork sand-
wich is slathered with herbs and slow-roasted,
moistened with the reduced jus and layered
with house-cured ham and bacon.
“Everybody understands what a sandwich
is,” says Brandon Martinez, who co-owns the
restaurant with John Bates. “Wherever you
grew up and regardless of what you put inside
of it. We use this everyday comfort food as a
catalyst to push the limits of what you can do.”
p. disbroWe
Anatomy ofa Sandwich
White bread: noble Pig's Farmhouse white is en-riched with butter and eggs, which creates a rich but light texture that holds up to the moisture that their hearty sandwiches deliver.
sweet yellow mustard: bates and martinez have been mak-ing mustard in-house since they opened. In addition to an asser-tive whole-grain version, they make a sweet yellow mustard that suggests French Dijon with a touch of sweetness.
olive oil pickles: to make the crunchy condiment, cucumbers and white onions are brined in red wine vinegar for five days, rinsed, then briefly boiled with olive oil, fennel seed, and other aromatics. “the oil softens the acidic punch, but still allows a bright flavor that cuts through the richness of our meats,” martinez says.
mortadella: theirs follows a fairly traditional recipe that’s fla-vored with pistachios, nutmeg, and house-cured pork belly. “the meat is ground twice and emulsi-fied while it’s cold to create a very fine, smooth texture,” martinez explains.
cheddar cheese: makes everything better.
Photog r a Phy by k ate lesu eu r
the fried bologna sandWich ($7)“This is an example of something my mom would make with that red ring bologna and cheese and it was just the best thing ever,” Martinez says. “Ours is more complicated, but the flavors take me back to my childhood. That’s the fun part of our job. We get to turn people on to things they’ve never tried before, but they still have that safety net that ultimately it’s a sandwich.”
the noble pig4805 burnet rd.
(512) 666 5124 noblesandwiches.com
Shown: Ami chairs, playful Nido poufs and Zoe rug.
115 West 8th Street Austin 512.480.0436 scottcooner.com
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