7/28/2019 The Ozarks: A Midwesterner Visits an Alternate Universe

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Covering most o southern Missouri and northwestern Arkansas is the beautiul

yet ill-named Ozark Mountains, which is technically not a mountain range at all,

but rather a dissected plateau: a highland area that has been severely eroded so

that its relie is sharp, giving a mountainous appearance, but lacking any actual

geological characteristics o mountains such as aulting, active volcanoes, or

a history o either. But ortunately or me, Im not here to research a geology

lessonIm here to ride my Suzuki SV1000S through the Ozarks majestic

landscape and glorious twisty roads.

A week-long amily reunion in Branson, Missouri brought me to the region two

days prior. While I could have joined the rest o my amily in the car to transport

mysel rom home in Sioux Falls, South Dakota to Branson in one day, I opted

instead to take the motorcycle over a two-day jaunt. This would provide me with

the perect excuse to trade a hal-day o amily estivities or a little quality time

with my motorcycle on some o the best roads in the country.

When I snuck out o the condo at 7:00 on that June morning the temperature

was already in the mid-eighties. Leaving Branson, I was happy to get out o town

beore the trac got too heavy in the tourism capital o the Bible-Belt. Using

only a tourist map to navigate my way around the oddly shaped Table Rock Lake,

I nally passed through Table Rock State Park and over the Table Rock Dam.

Finally, I broke into the fat valley that cradles Highway 65, leading me on an easy

30-minute warm-up ride straight south to my starting point in Harrison, Arkansas.

by Jesse VanderWeide

The Ozarks: a MidwesTerner

visiTsanalTernaTeuniverse

7/28/2019 The Ozarks: A Midwesterner Visits an Alternate Universe

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For me, no motorcycle trip can begin

without a stop or good coee. A little

meandering around town landed me at the

Downtown Coeehouse. In my shaky state o

withdrawal, I ailed to notice that, although

the doors were open, the sign was lit, and

the lights were on, the coeehouse was notyet open or business. Among the scattered

tables and chairs, I met the generous and

knowledgeable proprietor who made

me two delicious double espressos and

provided some chit-chat about coee and

motorcycling.

I need to practice using my espresso machine

anyway he said, ater kindly explaining that

his upcoming businessthe only place in

Harrison that roasts their own beanswasnot due to be opened or another week. I

was happy to oblige. Explaining that I was

on a motorcycle, we talked about the local

riders avorite routes, and he just so happen

to recommend the exact loop I had plotted

the night beore: I would leave Harrison

heading south on Highway 43 leading me to

the towns o Compton and then Ponca. From

Outside the Downtown Coffee House in Harrison, ARthe only local coffee shop to

roast their own beans.

The heart of the Boston Mountains, at the junction of Highways 21 and 16.

One of the many hairpins on the Arkansas

Dragon, a.k.a. Highway 123.

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there, I could go east on Highway 74 to the town o Jasper

beore ending my loop by going back north to my starting

point. Or, he explained, I could make the loop longer by

continuing south rom Ponca through the Ozark National

Forest. I chose the latter.

Highway 43 is a drastic down-hill shenanigan all the way

to Ponca. I was careul not to let my sense o speed be

deceived by the rollercoaster-type terrain. Blind curves

and watch or elk signs abound, urther heightening

my attentiveness. The quality o the pavement, however,

is superb, inspiring condence and smiles the whole way.

The road is lined by heavy orestation on both sides, but

or the corners where visibility is adequate, a more spirited

riding pace is denitely justied. The landscape is mostly

blocked rom view by the heavy orestation lining either

side o the road, but the occasional crests oering views

o tree-tops and scattered peaks as ar as the eye can see

are magnicent.

Stopping in Ponca or gas, Im surrounded by the towering

peaks o the Upper Boston Mountains region o the

Ozarksthe most rugged area o the entire Ozark range.

Ponca resides at a modest elevation o 1,073 eet, but my

ride will soon take me through some o the highest peaks

o the Ozarks. The highest named summit is Turner Ward

Knob, which resides at 2,448 eet. Other unnamed peaks

reach upwards o 2,550 eet.

Leaving Ponca, Im now steadily climbing my way up in

elevation. Riding alongside the Bualo River, Highway 43

turns into Highway 21. The summit o Cave Mountain is

to my right displaying an elevation o 2,162 eet. As I turn

The author, at Rotary Ann recreation site along Scenic Byway/

Highway 7. Thanks goodness for mesh riding gear!

The Rotary Ann recreation site along Scenic Byway/Highway 7.

Continued from page 37

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eastbound onto Highway 16, Im fanked by the summits o Lost

Mountain to my let at 2,241 eet and Culbertson Point to my

right at 2,087 eet. Highway 16 eels incredibly open with its

relative lack o orestation compared to the previous Highways

46 and 23, but there is no less corner-carving between peaks and

valleys. Moreover, its less drastic elevation changes account or

greater visibility and more condence through the corners. Im

reminded o Nick Ienatschs amous motorcycling article, The

Pace, in which he eloquently describes how to enthusiastically

enjoy the art o cornering without irresponsibly encroaching on

dangerous speeds.

Continuing through the Ozark National Forest, I nally reach

the junction o Highways 7, 16, and 123. I should be turning

north onto 123, but I decided to rst take a detour south on the

scenic byway o Highway 7 to the town o Dover, Arkansas. The

road is gentle and joyul, nally dialing back the intensity and

giving me a chance to enjoy the stunning Ozarks. The Rotary

Ann recreation site prompts me to pull over and capture some

photographs. Once in Dover, its gas, water, and back up Highway

7.

Returning to my 3-way junction, my SV now takes me north on

Highway 123the amed Arkansas Dragon, presumably named

or its little-brother relationship to the more well-known Tail

o the Dragon in North Carolina. This 20-mile portion o the

Arkansas Dragon eatures hairpin ater hairpin lined with broken

Dover, Arkansas, along Highway 7.

The Table Rock Dam on Table Rock Lake near Branson, Missou

Table Rock Lake near Branson, Missouri.

Continued on page 40

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guardrails and well-used semi-

truck runo rampsdenitely not

a road or the aint o heart. Once

I reached my turno onto Highway

74, I couldnt resist turning around

and hitting 123 again.

Leading me northwest to the town

o Jasper, Highway 74 continuesthe theme o weaving through

peaks and valleys, albeit quite

less drastic than my previous

switchbacks on 123. Upon reaching

Jasper I stopped or gas and water

under the peak o the aternoon

sun. For the rst time on my loop,

Im reminded that Im encroaching

back toward tourist-land by the

plethora o minivans, RVs, and

under-dressed hardcore bikers

asking me how crazy I am or

wearing all that gear in this kind

o heat.

From Jasper, I go north on

Highway 7 through the Henry

Koen Experimental Forest, a

part o the Ozark National Forest

used or research o orest

management and conservation

techniques. The site was named

or the ormer orest supervisor o

the Ozark National Forest. Ater

encountering the Bualo River

once again, Highway 7 exits the

curvy terrain o the National Forest

and makes a 5-mile B-line back to

my starting place o Harrison.

To a born-and-raised east-river

South Dakotan, the Ozarks eel

like an alternate universeone

where straight lines were never

discovered and fat plains deemed

too boring to inhabit. My 4-day

round trip rom Sioux Falls to

Branson was denitely worth the

timeless 6 hours I spent in the

Ozarks. TMM

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