Issue 12: Spring EditionFukuoka JET Newsletter

Dedicated to TohokuSeismogram Recorded March 11, 2011

Seismogram recorded by The Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute

March 10, 2011 March 11, 2011 March 12, 2011

The Refill

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Jamina Ovbude

EDITOR AT LARGERebekah Randle

COPY EDITORSLauren SakakibaraMary Boscarino

DESIGN AND LAYOUT EDITOR

Jamina Ovbude

CONTRIBUTORS

Alicia CastanedaYannick McCleodStacy KoyamaFulin LowAmelia HagenDena-kae FergusonAnita YungAndrew YoungAndrew BartonRyan RosenbergAshley ChinOlivia DoggettJosie HenningLauren Sakakibara

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INSIDE Issue 12:

Spring Edition

4 THE CORNER BloomDoes This Make Me a Bad Man?

8 IN FUKUOKAWhy So Serious?Exploring Yourself: Swimming with Your Japanese Grandparents

12 TRAVELHoliday in the Sun: Maldives Edition

14 RECIPES“Spinners” Mini DumplingsJamaican Stew PeasToffee BarsNon-Alcoholic Sangria

16 OPINIONSHot Coffee Cans or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Living in Japan

18 SHORT SHORTSApples and PearsTop 5 Online Japanese Study Resources

18 LIVINGOn Turning 20 in Japan

22 ENTERTAINMENTReviewsEventsTH

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Editor’s NoteThe image on the cover is taken from a seismogram recorded by The Royal Netherlands Meteorological Institute on March 11, 2011. Compared to the relative calm documented before and after the geophysical event (see triptych on page 1), the movements on that fateful day could only be described as chaotic. And the damage they caused, catastrophic.

My initial reaction to the event was one of apathy. Not because I am heartless but because I couldn’t quite process what had happened. I read the numbers with series of zeros signifying the perished and missing as everyone did. And I consumed news report after news report; each printed with data about the abnormally great force the Earth had released. And yet, the scope of the damage didn’t quite register. I suppose this is what happens when one comes of age near an active fault line. The threat of earthquakes, due to their frequency, becomes significantly less daunting. Only when I returned home and saw the raw footage did I truly begin to feel the heaviness of this tragedy. I watched as a wall of water rushed ashore; hauling cars, trucks, homes, and fishing barges like playthings. Awestruck, I sat for hours in front of my petite television, paralyzed by the devastation.

Two years later and the people in the region continue working to establish a solid foothold on reconstruction. Many have regained some sense of normalcy while others (the orphaned, widowed, lost) probably never will.

I ask you to join me in remembering that day and those who died. Think on the fortitude with which the people of Japan so uniformly acted. And to my JET peers, be grateful to have yet another day here, supported by the tax paying people of this country.

I dedicate our spring issue to the people of Tohoku, to their continued progress towards rebuilding and to the sense of revitalization this intoxicating season affords us.

Jamina Ovbude, Editor in chief

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To: Tohoku

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THE CORNER

BLOOM

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Suddenly vivid onbark so black, must’ve spent monthssteeping in winter

Alicia Lopez has been making a habit of composing poetry since she was a wee little lass sprouted in the metropolis surrounding the Detroit River of the United States. She spent four years chewing on thoughts at the University of Montana before moving on to Fukuoka and packs of gum. This is her 3rd year on the JET programme.

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THE CORNER

Does This Make Me a Bad Man?Yannick McCleod is a unicorn poised to gallop off into the sunset. He loves pandas and foxes and would not be opposed to receiving one as a going away present. You have been advised.

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IN FUKUOKA

Why So Serious?Stacy Koyama explores the meaning behind the apparent lack of joy at Japanese high school graduations.

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一度起立！礼！着座！(Ichido kiritsu! Rei! Chakuseki! Stand! Bow! Sit!) If you weren’t already familiar with these phrases you probably heard it a lot this March during your school’s graduation ceremony. As a senior high school ALT, I experienced my first Japanese-style graduation last March, and, while I’m not so familiar with other countries’ formalities, I was dumbfounded at how solemn it was compared to the high school graduations I’ve experienced in the United States.

The program of a Japanese high school graduation goes as follows:

1. Opening remarks2. National Anthem and roll call of graduates3. Principal’s Address4. Speech by the BOE5. Speech by the PTA6. Speech by the Alumni Association7. Speech by the Student Council President8. Presentation of gift from graduating class to the school9. Graduation song and school song10. Closing

During the ceremony, the students silently wait in their seats, answer when called, bow when told, and listen—or maybe fall asleep—during the congratulatory speeches by the principal and guest speakers. And inexplicably, applause is an absolute no-no. Nearly every part of the ceremony involves multiple repetitions of standing (kiritsu), bowing (rei), and sitting back down (chakuseki), and too bad this workout isn’t intense enough to keep warm! The gyms in which the ceremonies occur are often incredibly cold. Despite wearing layers of HeatTech and keeping handwarmers (kairo) in each pocket, most of the teachers and students are actually quite miserable!

Why is celebrating one of the milestones of a child’s life so dry and emotionless? And why do the real celebrations and trips down memory lane happen within the walls of homeroom, away from public eyes? I consulted two Japanese teachers and learned this: The concept of shiki, or ceremony, was possibly derived from the samurai era and requires solemnity and patience as an expression of one’s pride.

Additionally, the act of holding the formal graduation ceremony and then returning to their homerooms to openly share their feelings mirrors the larger concept of uchisoto, separating what is public and formal from what is private and intimate. In the case of graduation, the homeroom serves as the uchi (inside), while the formal ceremony serves as the soto (outside). What we witness at these graduation ceremonies is the unspoken rule to remain serious during formalities and to express relief only behind closed doors.

But I still had difficulty wrapping my mind around this idea. In the US, it is completely acceptable to show excitement during commencement ceremonies because it marks the end of a long and difficult journey. When I received my diploma, I vividly remember my parents shouting out my name and noisemakers and cheers echoing throughout the stadium. Graduation was a time for family and friends to witness not only my completion of high school, but also my ascent to adulthood.

Although I’ve already experienced one grueling graduation, It was much harder to remain still and solemn at this year’s ceremony because the graduates were the babies I first met and taught when I started JET. No applause, no cheering, no…emotion?! It was be the longest three-hour formality of my life. Nonetheless, I made the most of it, respected the tradition of uchisoto, and wished my students the best.

Stacy Koyama is a 2nd year ALT in Kurume. Her life is filled with difficult decisions, like having to choose whether to spend money on her electricity bill or Japanese sweets, and contemplating who is more attractive – Ryan Higa or EXILE’s Takahiro.

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IN FUKUOKA

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Exploring Yourself:Swimming with Your Japanese Grandparents

Last year, after running my first full marathon in Japan, I figured that the next big challenge for

me would be doing a triathlon before I turn 30. I still have a few more years to build up for the swimming, biking, and running challenge…but I had just one, tiny problem. I couldn’t swim. And I would get nervous in the water because it was something new and foreign. I was also a little embarrassed, thinking that most people start their swimming lessons during childhood, and I’m not really a child anymore! But I knew I had to try.

I decided to start right here in Japan, out of my comfort zone, and signed up for a 10-lesson beginners’ class. The first day arrived, and, pushing my worries aside, I plunged into the pool, reminding myself that everyone has to start somewhere.

There were seven students, including me. And the average age was 60 years old. I greeted everyone cheerfully in my less-than-perfect Japanese, “Konnichiwa! Yoroshiku onegaishimasu!” The grandmas and grandpas seemed pleasantly surprised to have a newcomer who looked and behaved like a kid. “They (the grandpas) are glad to have a young girl in the class,” said the coach, and everyone erupted in laughter. I couldn’t stop

smiling from then on, and I felt that somehow I would be all right. And so began my first swimming lesson with my Japanese grandparents.

It wasn’t easy to relax and follow the instructions when I only understood half of what my coach was saying. But I was still grinning happily and enjoying myself.

The joy and excitement on my grandparents’ lined faces mirrored mine, and they seemed just like children trying something new. The ladies were gushing over the strongest student, who seemed about 70 and was trying the butterfly stroke. Another grandpa was so focused on technique that he forgot to bring his head up to breathe; my coach swam after him, yelling, “Come up and breathe or you’ll die!” and laughter echoed off the pool walls. My grandparents at the local swimming pool were adorable, awesome, and amazing, and I was one lucky girl to be swimming with them.

In the final lap, I stopped a few meters in front of the wall because my grandparents were standing there, having already finished their laps. Then they parted and called out, “Swim here! Touch this wall! Irrasshai! (welcome!)” I smiled as I touched the wall and jumped up with a “Yay!” My

grandparents and coach clapped, and I bowed a few times. “So this is how it feels, swimming and doing stuff with grandparents!” I thought to myself.

Cold winter wind hit my face as I left class, but I had a blazing smile on my face and warmth spreading across my heart. It was a great day in Japan, as is every day.

I learned more than swimming that day from my Japanese grandparents. You are never too old to try new things. In fact, people don’t stop learning because they get old – they get old because they stop learning. First steps are usually sprinkled with worries, but fun almost always follows if you know where to look. It doesn’t matter where you are; what matters is what you do with the cards you have in your hand. So try something new today!

Fulin Low is a 3rd year ALT in Munakata City. She enjoys the outdoors, baking, and almost everything that life offers. During her free time, she can be found: in the mountains, managing her wanderlust, refusing to move from her couch or doing something random. PH

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Holiday in the Sun: Maldives Edition

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TRAVEL

I like the beach, a lot. My childhood consisted of mile run exercises on

the boardwa lk , annua l Sandcastle Day, sand soccer tournaments and the East Coast Surfing Competition. Some might wonder then, why an avid beach dweller would opt to take an island vacation. Simple, the island snorkeling and breathtaking scenery will always entice me. So while experiencing a bit of boredom on an elliptical machine last April, I crafted a series of cheap flights that made my dream of visiting the Maldives become a winter break reality.

Our trip gave us five glorious days in the Maldives with one spent in Male, the capital, and another four on Maafushi, an inhabited island a few hours away. Despite mixed reviews online, Male was a vibrant, bustling little city on an island two kilometers in circumference. My cohorts and I wandered the fish and fruit markets, indulged in coconut drinks, and chatted up a trio of friendly Aussie boys. After we caught the $2 USD ferry to Maafushi, we were greeted by Navee, our Summer Villa Guesthouse Manager who later became our not-so-secret Maldivian crush.

Walking around the island, we encountered bright storefronts and houses at every turn, and netted chairs with metal frames lining the outer walls of each complex. Exuding friendliness, each Maldivian we greeted was either a friend of a friend, close friends, or related to someone we knew at the guesthouse. And with the island mosque next door, we soon heard the first of many

calls to prayer.

That Christmas Eve, we ‘experienced’ the Italian family of 17 also staying there, enjoyed a Maldivian buffet, and even partook in some traditional dancing with a local drumming group. Christmas Day found us at Biyadhoo Resort Island, dipping in and out of the water between rain showers and relaxing in hammocks hanging from palm trees. We spent Boxing Day on Picnic Island, a small island where we had a tiny beach to ourselves. Picnic Island was my favorite spot in the Maldives due to its multiple sand banks, glimmering crystal-clear water, peace and quiet.

The day not over, we hit the open water on a night snorkel. Highlights included one guide catching a lobster (subsequently cooked for us) and watching a blowfish blow up like a miniature beach ball.

The next day, I ventured to another resort island while my buddies chose to a ride on the Banana Boat-esque Jumbo Dog. We then browsed an art show at the local school that featured artwork by local Maafushi Prison inmates into the evening.

On the last day, and with my underwater camera in hand, I swam through the reefs for a final snorkel session with our guides. We spotted a pink and green lobster, a sea cucumber, and an eel. From the Caribbean to the Balearic Islands to Fiji, I am happy to report that snorkeling in the Maldives takes the cake. The speedboat ride to the airport featuring flying fish, a giant dolphin pod, and a

spectacular sunset was the perfect send-off.

While my time in paradise was filled with sunshine, lapping waves, and plenty of coconuts, it wasn’t without hiccups. At times, and as my travel partners can attest, I was pretty frustrated with the guesthouse service. It was not easy to accomplish tasks or get straight answers in a relatively timely fashion. Though I understand the concept of ‘island time’, the guesthouse still fell short of my personal expectations. I’m a firm believer in the ‘you get what you pay for’ mantra but I felt that the staff could have been more efficient. That said, we had a hilarious time giving our favorite staff members nicknames: Dolphin Boy (because of a dolphin joke he made), Afro Boy (his hair), and Gorgeous (the aforementioned Navee); and we were sad to say farewell.

Simply put, a trip to the Maldives is what you make of it. You’ll always have the resorts with their overwater bungalows, but to breathe in the spices of the Maldives, head to an inhabited island. You won’t be able to drink alcohol or waltz around the island in a bikini, but you can see a side of the Maldives not pictured on postcards. Visit the world’s lowest-lying country before it’s too late!

Amelia Hagen is a fifth year Fukuoka JET in Kitakyushu City and Travel Editor for AJET Connect Magazine. When not traveling, she is most likely planning her next trip. You can follow her on Twitter via @jetset_amelia.

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RECIPES

“Spinners” Mini Dumplings1 cup flour ½ teaspoon salt Water (enough to bind)

Jamaican Stew Peas1 can red peas (red kidney beans)1 lb. beef chunks2 sprigs escallion chopped2 sprigs fresh thyme (tsp. dried)2 cups coconut milk (or 1 can) 1/2 tsp. allspice powder3 cloves garlic chopped1 onion choppedSalt and pepper to taste

Dena-Kae Ferguson is a fourth year Fukuoka JET. She hails from a land of very spicy, delicious food: Jamaica. She likes experimenting with recipes in her kitchen.

Place flour and salt in a medium bowl. Work mixture with hands while adding enough water to bind and make a stiff dough. Roll into 1 inch long pieces. Drop into boiling stew peas or soup (see recipe below). Boil until they float, or add them during the last 20 minutes of the cooking process.

Boil beef in a medium size pan. Drain, add more water, and then set to boil again. Add garlic & onions and boil until the meat is tender. Add coconut milk, Spinners, kidney beans, and the rest of the seasoning, then cook on a very low heat for about 45 minutes. Thicken the mix with 3 tablespoons of flour combined with 1/4 cup of water. Strain the mixture into the stew. Boil until it thickens. Serve with rice.

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Toffee Bars1 cup margarine1 cup brown sugar1 tsp vanilla2 cups flour1 cup chocolate chips

Non-Alcoholic Sangria ½ carton of grape juice1 can Ginger Ale (or Sprite)diced fruit (apples, grapes, and/or berries)

Anita Yung’s experience working in the Rockies as a cook, instigated her love for preparing food. She enjoys learning to make traditional dishes and experimenting when no one is looking. No worries! To date, she has a track record of 100% happy stomachs and 0% death tolls...maybe.

Thoroughly cream together butter, sugar, and vanilla. Add flour & mix well. Stir in chocolate chips. Put into a greased jellyroll pan or glass casserole dish. Set to bake for 25 minutes at 350˚F (176˚ C). Check after the first 10 minutes as time can vary. Cool completely before serving. Bars will harden and turn golden once cooled.

For a healthier version, substitute margarine for applesauce and substitute regular flour for almond flour.

Pour juice into a jug. Add Ginger Ale to taste. The juice should look carbonated. Add diced fruit & stir. Serve with or without ice. Great for parties or a refreshing drink for this upcoming summer!

“You look comfortable,” another ALT told me at a beer garden event, “Much more comfortable than last year, at least.”

At the time, he may have been saying that because I was reclined in my plastic lawn chair, unperturbed by the fact that a lawn chair cannot actually recline. With my cup of beer rising and falling upon my paunch with my inebriated breathing, I probably said something like, “Yes, it is very loud in here.” I don’t remember; I was really comfortable.

And I’ve come to realize that that’s really what it has taken for me to be happy with living here. My first year was a whirlwind of unease. Of course I knew moving to Japan from Canada would come with a great deal of new experiences, and I don’t mean to say my first year was horrible—these experiences were just as exciting as they were nerve-wracking. But in my second year of living here, rather than being bombarded with waves of new experiences, I’ve come to see the pleasure in simply being satisfied.

When my own brother came to visit me during the winter, he commented on daily activities and conveniences that he hadn’t seen on his travels to Europe or America, “It’s like, when the Japanese were going about their lives, and they encountered a tiny little problem, they fixed it, and then…it became fixed. And that was that. Just...fixed.”

What prompted that comment was his realization that vending machines have heated beverages in the winter. The can of coffee pops out at a good, hot temperature ready for drinking—or for use as a temporary hand warmer. I, too, was blown away by this answer to not wanting to drink cold things in the winter (which is, as you may have noticed, the

Hot Coffee Cans or,How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Living in JapanAndrew Young finds solace in the simple comforts of expat life.

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OPINION

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coldest season). Hot coffee from machines just makes so much sense it hurts that Canada doesn’t have them dotting the landscape.

This is just one of the small things that make living in Japan very satisfying for me. Being comfortable here is thanks to the accumulation of the many small conveniences this country has to offer. I’m not comfortable in Japan just because I can tap my IC card onto a pad on a vending machine and receive hot canned coffee, but because I can tap my IC card in exchange for this and many other goods.

This might be obvious, or a point poorly made, but what I’m trying to say is that being comfortable is about being satisfied. It’s very easy to get worked up over whatever makes us uncomfortable. Indeed, being in uncomfortable situations comes with being an ALT; we’re working in a culture that is literally completely foreign to us. But all it takes to relax a little more—to focus more calmly on joy and less on, “Oh my gosh, dang it, I’m messing up this experience”—is to revel in, as the cliché goes, the little things. I started having a coffee in the morning, riding my bike through rice fields, visiting the city occasionally, and really relishing the connections that I unwittingly made at my schools with students and coworkers alike.

So now, just like back in Canada, I can resume stubbornly reclining in plastic lawn chairs at beer gardens.

Andrew Young is a 2nd year JET who sporadically complains about various things on his blog: soggiesttowel.tumblr.com

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I’d like to discuss the sometimes yawning gulf between what is insulting to the Japanese and what

is insulting to us (westerners). I bring this topic up as I was actually set off by something someone said to me the other day.

It was meant well, and I knew that it was meant well, but I still couldn’t get past feeling like I’d just been insulted. Effectively, one of my colleagues, one I consider a close friend in fact, called me a “child.” Generally, even in English, if this is said in anger it’s easy enough to get over. Squirt someone with a water gun and out it pops (the word, not the child. If that were the case, maternity wards would be awash with water pistols). Laugh at a legitimately funny bodily function and out it comes again (No. Just no.) But this wasn’t like that. This was said in the most calm, matter-of-fact way imaginable—the same way you would say that the sun rises in the morning or that chicken nanban is

delicious. Against that sort of implied certainty, the word takes on a lot more power…or at least it does to an English-speaking mind. Suddenly you are not to be taken seriously, your attempts at interaction seen as playacting, and any praise you receive augmented with the implication “for a simpleton with a mental age of 3.” Several emails worth of intercultural communication later, and it was fairly obvious being called a child in Japanese is nothing near as bad as this, and is even used as a term of endearment. But it did get me thinking: What other things are totally okay to say in Japanese but not in English, and vice versa?

Having heard similar stories from other people, it seems that “fat” is at the top of the list. Fat is not seen as a completely bad thing in Japan, at least on a man’s body. So, many men find themselves on the receiving end of a “最近、太ってきたな”(Saikin, futotte kita na) which many English speakers

instinctively translate as, “You’ve let yourself go haven’t you, you great fat pig.” The problem English speakers have with “fat” isn’t the fat itself, but the “You’ve let yourself go” part. Therefore, fat is bad because it implies moral inferiority. If you are a fat person in the West, then you are branded lazy, oafish, and incapable of helping yourself, unless it’s to another éclair. In Japan, a fat bloke is just that – a bloke who is fat. In fact, according to my trustworthy sources, if the subject of your girth is brought up, particularly if that girth is a recent addition, people will often ask out of genuine concern for your health. Are you stressed out and eating to compensate? Have you recently broken up with someone and chosen Lady Borden as your psychologist? Have you temporarily lost the ability to cook for yourself and lapsed into relying on Pizza La for sustenance? No one will know if they don’t ask. When you look at it like that, it almost seems like the nice thing to

The Art of the Insult

Andrew Barton attempts to narrow the chasm between Japanese humor and Western insults.

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OPINION

do. At least you know someone gives a toss about your general wellbeing.

So, there you go. Being called a child is okay. Being called fat is totally alright. The jury’s still out on being called a fat child, but it’s most likely fine as well. So then, easily offended Westerner, how do you tell when a Japanese person is insulting you? As my sources put it, “We wouldn’t know what to say as an insult. We don’t really do that in Japan.” Although no doubt a bit of an exaggeration, it does seem that the Japanese are so averse to straight insults that a good rule of thumb is to just smile, safe in the knowledge that whatever they’ve said, they probably mean well...unless they’re calling you てめえ(teme-e, mother f$%#er) and throwing コラ (oi!) about, in which case it’s a fair bet you’ve said something to provoke them.

Which segues nicely into the next point: how exactly do you insult a

Japanese person? Well, if Japanese “swear words” (if they can really be called that) are anything to go by, stupidity seems to be the topic of choice. There’s a raft of them, from the commonバカ(bakah, idiot) andボケ(bokeh, idiot) to the slightly more underutilised のろい(noroi, slow-witted) andおろか(oroka, foolish). Terms like these are so common in comedy routines though, that quite often when they’re used in everyday life, it’s by people who know each other just having a laugh. The thing to remember about Japanese is that context is everything. There aren’t really any words that are considered bad in all situations (even in English, much as we accept casual swearing now, there’s still a stigma attached), and so every word has its place. It’s totally dependent on how you use it whether or not it’s insulting. As long as your language is in keeping with who you’re talking to, you’ll be fine! Just don’t be that one American

who, finding himself in a new job in Japan, and having been called スケベ(sukepeh, lecher) quite innocently by his female co-workers, confidently strolled up to his boss at the greeting party and said what he felt was the Japanese equivalent of “How are you going, you old rogue?” but ended up being “元気にしてるか、このスケベ？” (genki ni shiteru ka, kono sukebe). He unfortunately found himself on the first plane back to America.

Andrew Barton came to Japan to benefit the glorious nation of New Zealand and is currently working as the CIR for the Kitakyushu International Association. When he isn’t obsessing over foreign language, he can be found playing taiko or having a pint at Bravo.

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SHORT SHORTS

Apples and PearsRyan Rosenberg takes you on a jaunt into Fukuoka’s often ironic underbelly

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“It’s apple,” she said, holding up the wedge of fruit on a tiny wooden toothpick. I knew they were pears.

In this dark bar, the girls had all staked their claim on the men of the evening. Another night of forced conversation and fellating the egos of the bruised, tired businessmen. Worlds colliding, both miserable in their own pursuits, only trying to sedate themselves with social artifices and colored paper. Shortly after arriving, one approached me and sat down with a plate of pears. I didn’t catch her name, I didn’t care. Her red dress clung tightly to her body—a body tired, broken which had ceased to become objectively beautiful and was simply a tool. She initiated a sequence of flirtatious questions, routine and prefabricated.

Each passing moment was an agonizingly contrived distortion. The girl looked disappointed, wondering why I didn’t enjoy her company. She fidgeted in her seat continuing to offer pears and hollow attempts at a fake relationship, but my apathy made her uncomfortable.

“You’re not like the others” she said suddenly, twisting her head into a perplexed contortion. “How old are you?” I mumbled a response. She recoiled in shock at my answer, picking up the plate again after a moment of reflection, and offered me a pear. “What have you done to yourself?” The opposite wall was mirrored, reflecting the writhing, stupefied faces of the patrons. Her question was jarring; I spotted my own, unfamiliar face in the putrid nightscape. A man and girl were on stage singing, and the sullen caves of my eyes were reflected next to her bare breasts, heaving robotically. I stared robotically. “I don’t know,” I said.

She held the plate in her quivering, outstretched hand, smiling that smile which made her cheeks push glitter up into her eyes. I took a pear. She stared back at me, and I stared at her, suddenly awash with inexplicable pity for both of us. I excused myself out onto the quiet street. Above me, webs of electric wires hashed the sky, the stars obscured by the city’s respirations. A notion drifted into my mind, crippling me and making me wish I never wasted my life creating experiences, which were inconsequential to the world but everything to me. A drunken man passed wearing an immaculate gray suit. He stopped briefly before continuing down the street and gurgling away into an alley. The notion was this: If life were a garden, we could use that candid spot to grow a rich and bountiful orchard. Lacking this ambition, one could simply sit in the wild grass and stargaze. This fruitless life may be wasteful, but I can think of no greater tragedy than if one’s orchard were to bear the wrong fruit. I wondered if having lost sight of the stars, with the branches overgrown and irreversibly tangled overhead, were a fate worse thannot having existed at all.

I let the toothpick fall to the gutter, and stared into the hazy sky, the distinct taste of apple on my lips.

Ryan Rosenberg. Noun 1. An ALT from the Big Island of Hawai’i. Resides in Fukuoka City. 2. A fledging writer who, at times, finds himself in disreputable establishments in the company of middle-aged Japanese gym teachers.

Apples and PearsRyan Rosenberg takes you on a jaunt into Fukuoka’s often ironic underbelly

1. AnkiAnki is an entirely customizable flashcard generator that can be extremely useful for studying kanji. The learning curve on the ins and outs of the program is a little steep, but once you get into using the system, Anki becomes a great—and free—tool for Japanese study. It is available for virtually every platform imaginable, including Windows, Mac, Linux, iOS, and Android. (http://ankisrs.net/)

2. Tae Kim’s Guide toJapanese LearningTae Kim’s Guide to Japanese is more of a reference guide than a study tool. With its detailed explanations of grammar points and verb conjugations, the website can be an invaluable tool on those occasions when you find yourself absolutely stumped by a hard-to-understand phrase or sentence. The guide starts off with an introduction to Japanese writing systems and progresses all the way up to more nuanced and specific topics, such as causative, passive, humble, and honorific forms. For those on the go and in need of a portable grammar reference, the guide comes in .pdf and iOS app form. (http://www.guidetojapanese.org/)

3. Lang-8Lang-8 is a miniature blogging website with a language-learning twist. Lang-8’s learning system is community-based, relying upon native speakers of each language to take it upon themselves to correct and comment on the blog entries of their fellow users to the best of their abilities. The website provides a fun, non-restrictive way to practice language and learn from native speakers while remaining anonymous, but the downside, of course, is that practice is restricted only to written language. (http://lang-8.com/)

4. iKnowiKnow integrates typically boring rote learning with online quizzes and flash games. The system concentrates on listening, reading, and writing in its “courses,” which are essentially long lists of vocabulary words with different attributes (kanji, pronunciation, meaning, audio, part-of-speech), all of which users are tested on in flash-animated quizzes. iKnow also enables users to construct their own courses, set a schedule, and track learning progress, which makes it much easier to study specific, personalized test material. There are even iOS and Android apps. The catch: it’s going to cost you. iKnow runs from ¥700-¥1000 per month depending on your subscription, but if you have a short-term goal in mind—such as the JLPT—it is a self-study supplement worth considering. (http://www.iknow.co.jp)

5. MemriseMemrise operates similarly to iKnow, but it’s free. Unlike iKnow, however, Memrise is still in development, so there are a number of operational issues and holes in some of their promoted courses. Users can create their own courses, but the testable attributes are much more limited than those on iKnow. What makes Memrise stand out, on the other hand, is its “mems” (mnemonics): mental aids that help users commit vocabulary to memory. These can be anything from videos and pictures to puns and word associations. Users share these amongst each other, voting for the ones they find most effective. (http://www.memrise.com/)

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Ashley Chin is a second-year Chikuho JET. She’s been studying Japanese since high school and is planning to finally take on the JLPT this coming summer.

Top 5 Online Japanese Study Resources

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I wasn’t quite sure where I was going. The pleasure and the curse of moving to a new city is that

I’m always hearing about new places, but I usually have no idea how to get there. Then I started to spot them: a couple crossing the street, a group chatting on the way into a Lawson. Girls elaborately wrapped up in long-sleeved silk kimonos, flowers, fur, hair big, nails done. Guys dressed in hakamas, long pleated multi-piece skirts.

Fukuoka City Hall is framed on one side by a couple of overpasses and a busy intersection. When I roll up under the echo of cars above, it’s like an ant colony of 20-year-olds swarming all over each other in a fenced-in parking lot. I feel immediately like I’m not supposed to be here. I’m the only visible foreigner. I don’t know anyone. I don’t really get this Seijin no Hi business that I’ve arrived to witness and take pictures of. I know it’s a Monday holiday in January that celebrates

On Turning Twenty in Japan

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twenty-year-olds entering the age of majority. In other words, these people can vote, drink, and buy cigarettes—bear the badges of responsibility that seem to be the universal markers of adulthood. Apparently, the holiday originated with a prince who decided to wear a different robe and hairstyle on his 20th birthday in order to show he had become an adult. This prince turned twenty about 1,300 years ago, so there has been a lot of time for this ritual to evolve. Nowadays, both girls and guys head over to their local city hall dressed up in traditional clothes and listen to the mayor offer some grownup wisdom.

Taking pictures on this Seijin no Hi Monday in Hakata harbor was one of my favorite days in Japan so far. There is something entrancing and exciting about witnessing young people experiencing this rite of passage dressed in the clothing of

their ancestors. But, I read somewhere

that in 2012 there was a decline in attendance for Seijin no Hi for the fifth year in a row. Maybe what I find so culturally enriching and cool about this day is claustrophobic and outdated for Japanese youth.

When I think of Seijin no Hi as Prom’s older, more beautiful sister though, I begin to understand. Months of hype and expenses lead up to a day where personal growth is signified and celebrated by uncomfortably posing for pictures in strange clothes that don’t suit you. Yeah, I hated Prom. I found it to be stressful, cliquey and meaningless. It was as anticlimactic as the Christmas I stopped believing in Santa Claus. Maybe I’m bitter: I had poison ivy, and no date, but I still think it’s worth questioning why cross-culturally we choose to signify personal development through a change in appearance. Growth obviously doesn’t happen overnight, why did the prince try to make it seem that way? Maybe there’s something to the job interview

advice of “look the part; be the part:” your new clothes will carry you to where you want to be. Still though, most people have to rent a kimono for Seijin no Hi because they cost around $10,000 to buy. The clothes are so far removed from contemporary Japanese reality that the girls have to go to a salon to get help putting them on.

I wonder if wearing the traditional kimono or hakama signifies the timelessness of what defines Japanese adult responsibility, or whether it is something as simple as, “This is how we did it last year, so this is how it will happen again.” Considering the declining numbers, though, maybe it’s finally time for a change of clothes.

Olivia Doggett, a native Quebecer, arrived in Fukuoka to teach English seven months ago. She likes cooking, sleeping, writing, and taking pictures in risky places.PHO

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ENTERTAINMENT: REVIEWS

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ARGO (2012)

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Director: Ben Affleck

Cast: Ben Affleck, Alan Arkin, John Goodman, Bryan Cranston, Victor Garber.

‘Argo’ is the true Hollywood story of the CIA retrieval of six American diplomats from

the Canadian ambassador’s residence during the Iranian hostage crisis.

Director Ben Affleck dispenses a nervy opening sequence, setting in motion the well-known series of events that led to the 444-day crisis. This allows the film to focus on agent Tony Mendez’s (Affleck) last-ditch attempt to recover the diplomats using unbelievable false identities and great Hollywood fakery.

While the film’s pacing is masterful, it’s Affleck’s trust in his cast that pays off the most, as they highlight the small human moments that illustrate the tensions and real life risks for those involved.

I was surprised at how the film effortlessly builds suspense, without overloading the plot or dialogue. And it’s not overwrought with backstage political machinations, as I expected it to be.

There are many good reasons ‘Argo’ has been sweeping this awards season. And as much as awards ceremonies are tied to popularity and politics, I’ve felt a sense of satisfaction each time this picture has bagged itself a statue.

Make an effort to see ‘Argo’. It’s a solid film with a captivating story.

* If, like me, you are interested in the story that inspired ‘Argo’, you can find Joshuah Bearman’s ‘Escape from Tehran’ online. It’s worth a read.

Josie Henning is a 2nd year ALT who is glad Lincoln didn’t win the Oscar for Best Picture and thinks Ben Affleck should definitely keep the beard.

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March 1-31: Beef Steak and Strawberry Desserts Buffet

Attention, steak and/or sweets lovers! For the month of March, Le Café at Hyatt Regency Fukuoka is offering a special buffet featuring beef steak and 30 types of dishes, including sandwiches, omelettes, pizza, pasta, curry, soup, and salad. Hope you have a betsu bara (separate stomach) – you’ll need it to enjoy the 10 varieties of strawberry desserts offered as well! The buffet is \1800 for adults and \1200 for children. The best part of all this? There is no time limit! For more information about the menu and reservations, check out the homepage at http://hyattregencyfukuoka.co.jp/cgi-bin/restaurants/rplan.cgi?sNO=4.

March 13 – April 1: “Piece of Peace” Lego Exhibition

You can build practically anything with Legos – and now these iconic toys have been taken to another level. Starting March 13, come check out the “Piece of Peace” exhibition in Tenjin, where you can see models of 40 World Heritage sites from all around the world, including the Statue of Liberty and Himeji Castle. The replicas will be displayed in two venues: PARCO Factory (Fukuoka PARCO 8F) and Mitsubishi-jisho Artium (IMS 8F). Admission is \400. For more information, visit http://www.pofp.kp/exhibition/.

March 24: Zen Meditation

Have you ever attended a Zen meditation class? Now is your chance! Whether you are skilled at meditation or relatively new to the art, this free class (10am-12pm) at Myohoji Temple is sure to be a calming, reflective experience. A monk will guide you through the process, after which tea will be served. If interested, please send an email to Maki Toyokawa at starmakimaki.love@gmail.com by March 17! Volunteers can provide rides from the station (JR/Nishitetsu Chihaya) to the temple.

March 29: Softbank Hawks 2013 Season Opening Day

The 2013 baseball season is here, and this year marks the Hawks’ 75th anniversary! Come cheer on your favorite players as they start a new bid to win the 2013 championship! Opening Day is March 29, 6:30pm, and tickets run up to ¥4300.

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ENTERTAINMENT: EVENTS

Happy New Year!

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4月Until March 30: Monzen Matsuri

Spring is almost upon us, as shown by the steady appearance of pink and white ume, or plum blossoms. From now until March 30, be sure to visit Monzen Matsuri at Dazaifu Tenmangu, where you can enjoy the beauty of over 6,000 plum blossoms. Don’t miss this chance to see the flower of Fukuoka Prefecture!

March 30FAJET Hanami

Break out the drinks and snacks because it’s time for Hanami! Hanami (cherry blossom viewing) is arguably Japan’s most iconic and picturesque time of year. Therfore, Fukuoka AJET is hosting its annual event at Kokura Castle. Bring food and drinks, a tarp or blankets and dress warm. Party is from 12:00 to 19:00. Check the Facebook event pagee for more details.

Until April 7: Huis Ten Bosch Tulip Festival

Sure, Huis Ten Bosch is in Nagasaki, but there is no reason not to see its massive fields of blooming tulips – 550 types, to be exact. With its Dutch windmills and picturesque scenery, HTB’s annual Tulip Festival is the perfect place to view the largest array of tulips in Japan! Other features include a flower market and a 3D projection show called “The Revival of the Dragon.” Tickets are \3900 per person.

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PHOTO: Juha Vaittinen

Based on Fukuoka’s tradition of kae-dama, in which a refill of ramen noodles is served for leftover broth, The Refill serves up additional information about life in Japan for Fukuoka’s JET community.

contact us at: the.refill.fukuoka@gmail.comThe contents of this newsletter are strictly for entertainment purposes. The magazine cannot be held responsible for actions taken as a result of its content. The viewpoints published herein are those of the authors and do not reflect the philosophy or viewpoints of the Fukuoka Board of Education, the JET Programme or CLAIR.