STNMAST2008

South Africa

In assocIatIon wIth

January 22, 2012

22.01.12 3thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica

South Africa is one of the easiestAfrican countries for Britishtravellers to visit. An overnightflight away (with a one- ortwo-hour time difference) andEnglish-speaking, the country

has well-maintained roads, frequentinternal flights, high-qualityaccommodation and excellent food.

In fact, there’s almost toomuchchoice, which is why booking throughawell-connected and experienced touroperator can be a wiser option thantaking pot luck on the internet. It alsohelps to have a local contact to sort outproblems, says LungiMorrison, UKhead of South African Tourism.

“South Africa offers somany choices,somost visitors arrive at one airportand leave from another, with complexarrangements in between.Whenyou’re dealing with those sorts oflogistics, it’s useful to have a specialiston handwho understands the nuancesand can sort out hitches for you.”

We assume that booking through anoperator is more expensive than doingit yourself online, but this is notnecessarily the case, explains FrancesGeoghegan,managing director ofAfrica Travel, a South African travelspecialist. On flights, for instance, hercompany has preferential status withBritish Airways, “so we get seats farcheaper than you can buy online, whensold as part of a package”. Africa Travelalso has good car rental and hotel roomrates because it books somany eachyear— so seven nights at KensingtonPlace in Cape Town inMaywith BA

flights cost £1,375pp through AfricaTravel and £1,550 if booked directly.Payment is Atol-protected andmostoperators take a 20% deposit with theremainder paid eight weeks beforedeparture, whereas online bookingsmust usually be paid in full at the time.

People still like the personal touch.An operator can establish a client’sbudget and tastes, recommendingaccordingly: for example, for a stay inCape Town choosing between theOne&Only hotel and Four Rosmead, aboutique guesthouse; or forhoneymooners on safari, a canvasbushcamp at Thornybush or a chicretreat such as RoyalMalewane.

“What a good operator does is get toknow their guests,” Geoghegan says.“There’s no point in us sendingchildren to Kruger National Park iftheir parents don’t want them to takemalaria tablets.We’d recommend theMadikwe, which is easily accessible viaJohannesburg, or the Eastern Cape.

“What also gives operators such asus an edge is that we have an office inCape Town,” she adds. “When a clientwanted to see art in Cape Town, we gota gallery opened at night for him.That’s something you couldn’t arrangeon the internet.”

Take thesavvytravel option

Springboks in theWestern CapeSeeing the other side

In racially segregatedtimes, Soweto (SouthWestern Townships) waswhere Johannesburg’sblack majority was forcedto live. Today about 1.3mfree citizens still live thereby choice, in homesranging from slums tomillionaires’ palaces.A day trip (joburg.org.za/soweto) provides aninsight into locals’ livesand their struggle forequality, taking inVilakazi Street, whereNelson Mandela andDesmond Tutu used tolive, the church where thebanned ANC met, miners’hostels, museumsdedicated to nationalheroes — and perhaps ashebeen for lunch. Threenights’ B&B at the stylishSaxon hotel in nearbySandhurst start at£1,830pp, including BAflights, transfers, and ahalf-day tour of Soweto.

Enjoying views from the topof the (Cape) worldTable Mountain, occasionallyclad in an impressive cloud“tablecloth”, is Cape Town’smost iconic sight. A cable-cartrip — unmissable — whisksguests from foothills to flatpeak, where views (and sunsets)are spectacular across the cityand its beaches. The peak is

least crowded from 2pm to 4pm,although nature-lovers mightenjoy a guided walk at noon: themountain has more than 1,500plant species growing on it, andcreatures from rock hyraxes toelusive eland. Five nights’ B&Bat Kensington Place boutiquehotel on the lower slopes startat £1,410pp including flights,car hire and a cable-car ticket.

Aworld of experiences—all in one country

Scenic driveAlthough the Garden Routeheading east from Cape Townremains the most famous ofSouth Africa’s drives, theless-known Route 62 (route62.co.za), which runs 850km fromCape Town to Port Elizabeth,is growing in popularity.Winding between spectaculargorges, quaint towns, orchardsand farmland, it passesthrough Paarl and Robertson,near the Cango Caves andostrich farms of Oudtshoorn,the surfing beaches of Jeffrey’s

Bay — and dozens ofother places to relax,hike, balloon, canoe,see art and samplelocal cuisine. An11-night self-driveholiday along the R62starts at £1,735pp,including BA flights,car hire and B&B.

The content of this supplementwas devised in conjunction withAfrica Travel and South AfricaTourism. All the holidays featuredcan be booked through AfricaTravel (020 7843 3583,africatravel.co.uk)

SouthAfrica2

Irecently had the opportunity totravel the length and breadth ofmycountry for the production of atelevision series called The SouthAfrican Story. It gaveme thechance to visit places I had not

been to before and to really see, forthe first time, thismagnificent land inall its glory— from the top of TableMountain to the banks of themighty Limpopo.

The first word that comes tomind insumming up the journey is “diversity”.South Africa is a large country, with

a wide variety of landscapes,topographical features and climates,from arid to temperate bushveld totropical. Diverse vistas, diverse people,diverse cultures, diverse experiences.Diversity is good: imagine if we alllooked the same, followed the identicalcultural practices and lived in auniform environment.

The secondword is “beauty”. I don’thave the words to do justice to the viewfromGod’sWindow escarpment inMpumalanga, the sight of wavescrashing through the Hole in theWall

on the Transkei’sWild Coast, the giantbaobabs on the savanna in the north,the sun hitting the sandstone cliffs atGolden Gate in the Free State, theserenity of Kirstenbosch botanicalgardens in Cape Town...

The third word is “history”, startingat the Cradle of Humankind nearJohannesburg, where the story of theorigin of our species unfolds.What afascinating place to visit, and to learnthat nomatter howwe look or wherewe come from today, we all originate inAfrica.We are all Africans. Our historyis painted in ochre on cave walls fromthe CederbergMountains in theWestern Cape to the heights of theDrakensberg in KwaZulu-Natal. Itis shouted from the rooftops of someof the finest examples of colonialarchitecture in the southern

hemisphere, from Pietermaritzburg toGrahamstown, and from Pretoria toCape Town. Our triumph overapartheid is narrated on Robben Island,in Johannesburg’s Apartheidmuseum... through the statue ofPresidentMandela at the gates ofVictor Verster Prisonwhence he sofamously walked free.

The fourth word is “delicious”. Eachpart of the country has its own culinarycharacter, from CapeMalay toWestCoast seafood to Durban curry. Ourfruit is of such good quality thatmost of it is exported— as ismuch ofour seafood. Our wine route, in theBoland region of theWestern Cape,is truly something to savour. Andthe biltong and venison from thebushveld is a delight.

And then there are the people. South

Africans are justifiably proud of theircountry and themselves. Althoughmany still live in extreme poverty,and although apartheid was struckfrom the law books just a shortgeneration ago, there is a remarkableabsence of bitterness. Themagnanimity of our people wasarguably the singlemost importantingredient in ourmiraculous transitionto democracy.

South Africa will take your breathaway. Don’t takemyword for it. Pay usa visit and see for yourself.

God bless you,Emeritus Arch Desmond Tutu.

n For further information aboutSouth Africa, contact South AfricaTourism on 0870 1550 044,southafricatourism.net

DesmondTutu finds beauty, historyand sheer joy all over South Africa

Mydiverse, delicious land

Playing world-class golfSouth Africa’s first golf course wascreated in 1885, and today there are morethan 600, designed by such heroes of thegreen as Gary Player and Jack Nicklaus.Top courses include Leopard Creek,

Durban Country Club, Pearl Valley,St Francis Links, Pecanwood and RoyalJohannesburg, but the Links at Fancourt,created by Player, ranks among thecountry’s top three — and is his personalfavourite. The resort’s two luxury hotels,

situated in mountains near George inthe Eastern Cape, with a spa, make itpopular with golf widows, too. Five nights’B&B at Fancourt start at £1,835pp,including BA flights, transfers, and oneround on the links.

Luxuriating in the bushThe exclusive game lodge RoyalMalewane, adjacent to the KrugerNational Park, is popular with the likesof Bono, Elton John and Nicolas Sarkozy.It is renowned for refined interiors, fine

wines and gourmet cuisine, as well ashaving the Big Five on its doorstep. Andits revamped bush spa, with heated pool,spa bath, steam room, gym andtreatments featuring local botanical oilsand mineral-rich spring water, makes it

the most luxurious bush hangout inwhich to relax after lion-spotting at dawn.Three nights at Royal Malewane costfrom £3,825pp, full-board, includingBritish Airways flights, game drives,drinks and a massage.

Aworld of experiences—all in one country‘We’re allAfricans’:DesmondTutu

22.01.12 5thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica

Capeofgood food

Consumer’s guide to the top tables for gourmet getaway

Dining with a view at Delaire Graffin Stellenbosch, left; a plate atCape Town’s Test Kitchen, above

the 1980s, our chefs were cooking Frenchfood, whereas now they are all cooking theirown cuisine with a wide variety ofinfluences. That’s what has happened inSouth Africa, too— after all, the country hassomany historical influences, from CapeMalay to Portuguese to French to its ownindigenous food. One of themost excitingthings now about South Africa is thisnew-found confidence in its own flavours.

The great wines help—many of them ona par with top international labels. Over theyears I’ve seen how South Africanwine-making has changed; for a while, some ofthemore earthy vintages lost a bit ofcharacter as they chased internationalmarkets, but they are back to producingreally interesting wines. It’s well worthdropping in to some of the boutiquewineriesfor a tasting. I’m a particular fan of thedistinctive and characterful labels comingfrom Eben Sadie’s winery in Swartland, and

those of Boekenhoutskloof, Franschhoek.What is happening with the chenin blancgrape at Badenhorst in Swartland, wherecousins Hein and Adi Badenhorst useunirrigated vines planted in the 1960s tomake natural wines in the traditionalmanner, is also very exciting.

My father once had a fruit farm inFranschhoek andmy sister, who has beenin South Africa for 25 years, now livesnearby in the idyllic village of Greyton. It’sone of themost beautiful areas I know,which is why I nearly bought a restaurantthere a few years ago. In fact, I was withinhalf an hour ofmaking it mine when thedeal fell through. It obviously wasn’t meantto happen then: I came back to England andstarted onmy own restaurants. But I stillthink of the place, that lovely valleysurrounded bymountains, with Cape Dutcharchitecture everywhere— it’s probablywhere I want to retire.

South African ingredients at the Saxon hotelin the suburb of Sandhurst. Favouritesinclude pheasant gnocchi with trumpetmushrooms and confit of lamb shoulderwith truffle potato purée. Three coursesfrom £30 (82 784 6645, saxon.co.za).

Other restaurants to choose frominclude Signature Restaurant in Sandton(87 940 3880, signaturerestaurant.co.za);Wall Street Restaurant in Sandton (11 7846425, wallstreetrestaurant.co.za); and Sel etPoivre inMorningside (11 884 9037,seletpoivre.co.za).

nAfrica Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk)offers gourmet holidays to South Africa. Aneight-day trip, including two nights’ full-boardwith game activities at RoyalMalewane, onenight B&B at the Saxon, two nights’ B&B at theRobertson Small Hotel and three nights’ B&B atthe Cellars-Hohenort, starts at £3,745pp,including BA flights and Budget hire car

Classics with a twist:Reuben Riffel’s stylishbranch in Robertson

Pumpkin cheesecakeat Pierneef à La Motte

Heston Blumenthal, top, is a big fanof boutique Cape wines, above

SouthAfrica4

Iwas barely out of my teens the firsttime I went to South Africa, and I havevisited the country almost annuallysince then. Mymost recent trip therewas inMay last year, when I wasinvited to Cape Town for the Good FoodandWine Show, and even though thevisit was hectic I still found time to

have some really greatmeals.Many people realise now that South

African produce is exceptional, whetherfruit or fish, meat or vegetables. Much of itis organically grown in rich soil in a greatclimate, while the grass-fed beef tastesexactly as it should. As for the fish, whatcan you say except that it’s as fresh as it ispossible to be? I remember years ago sittingon Fish Hoek beach near Cape Townwithmy dad, looking out across the sand to theoceanwhile eating plain grilled crayfish,and I can still remember how they tasted.What we know in England as crayfish aren’tthe same— the South African saltwatercrayfish are like small lobsters and have allthe succulence of really fresh shellfish. Andeven better, they only cost about £2.50 eachat a beachside cafe.

It’s odd howmemories of food stay withyou. The first time I visited the Cape, I cameacross guavas and guava juice, which I hadnever seen or tasted either before, and forever after that guavas remindedme of SouthAfrica— even though they’re originally atropical fruit fromAmerica. It is one of thegreat joys of food that it can root you in atime and place. I still remembermy firsttaste of waterblommetjiebredie (a heartywinter stewmadewith lamb and the wildCape hawthorn) and bobotjie (spicedmincebaked with an egg topping) — foods thatbelonged to the place where I first ate them.

South African cooking has changed andevolved over the years, as cooking has

Cape TownChef Peter Tempelhoff showcases thefreshest of local ingredients with flair andimagination on the slopes of TableMountain at the Greenhouse at theCellars-Hohenort Hotel in Constantia.His tastingmenu is a seven-course delightfeaturing such concoctions as aMadagascanprawn and avocado nori-roll rice tuile,wasabi cream, and ponzu “snow”; a Fynbossmoked ostrich tartare; a wildmushroomagnolotti with roast sweetbreads, and acamembert cheesecake with roastpineapple ice cream. It costs £45, plus £21formatching wines (00 27-21 794 2137,cellars-hohenort.com).

Right in the city at the Old Biscuit Mill,another award-winning chef, LukeDale-Roberts, opened his latest restaurant,the Test Kitchen, in 2010. There is aneasy-style kitchen bar where individualdishes such as sake-steamed scallops or

his signature truffle and foie gras egg areserved, but it is his five- or eight-coursetastingmenus that are creating waves.Dale-Roberts has developed a vegetariantastingmenu that offers dishes such astruffle-scented poached quail egg withasparagus, peas and sweet garlic custard.Five courses cost £35 (£47 with winepairing), while eight courses cost £44 (£59with wine). Individual dishes are startersfrom £4.40 andmain dishes from £7.50(82 229 5667, thetestkitchen.co.za).

Reuben Riffel, of Reuben’s restaurantin Franschhoek, now has a branch at theRobertson Small Hotel in Robertson.Dishes include classics with a twist suchas tandoori-roasted kingklip, a deep-seafish from the Southern Ocean, servedwith lemon cream and caramelisedaubergine and salsa. Starters cost from£3.50, mains from £8 (23 626 7200,therobertsonsmallhotel.com).

In Franschhoek, the Pierneef à LaMotte on the La Motte wine estate is fastestablishing itself as a must-visitrestaurant. Chef Chris Erasmus hasdeveloped a refined and elegant versionof traditional home-cooked Afrikanerfarmhouse produce. A force in theslow-food movement, Erasmus ispassionate about local, organicingredients. Starters cost from£2.75, mainsfrom £9.50 (21 876 8000, lamotte.co.za).

Other restaurants to try while in andaround the Cape include two inStellenbosch: Rust en Vrede (21 881 3757,rustenvrede.com) and Overture (21 8802721, dineatoverture.co.za).

JohannesburgAustralian-born chef Nancy Kinchela isbringing all the knowledge and style of herinternational career (stints in London,Dubai and Kuala Lumpur) to the best of

Chef extraordinaireHestonBlumenthaltreks from the FatDuck to Franschhoek

Capeofgood food

Consumer’s guide to the top tables for gourmet getaway

everywhere, and is getting better and better.There are exceptional restaurants there thatwould be fabulous wherever you foundthem. I had a greatmeal, for instance, atDelaire Graff in Stellenbosch, where thechef, Christiaan Campbell, produced amealwith what I can only describe as refinedgutsiness, while his use of vegetables wassuperb— beetroot carpaccio, gardenvegetable pappardelle, mushroom ragout.We also had a terrific dinner at theCellars-Hohenort Hotel at Constantia,where every course was perfectly balanced.

And of course we ate at the Test Kitchenat the Old Biscuit Mill in Cape Town, whichbelongs tomy friend Luke Dale-Roberts, atruly fantastic chef. His approach to food isverymodern because he has this ability ofputting seemingly incongruent ingredientstogether in such a way that they workamazingly well —which is something closetomy heart. Highlights included beef fillet

and smoked bonemarrowwith his take onChinese spicy seafood XO dressing andcrispy salad, or a pan-fried line fish withroasted corn purée and prawn Chinese-styledumplings with toasted garlic and gingervelouté. Luke’s instincts and knowledge areof themoment.What I particularly admireabout his food is that he understands howimportant acidity is in a dish.We all knowthe importance of sweet and salt in a recipe,but it is the acidity of such ingredients asvinegar or lemon juice that createsmouthwatering appeal and accentuatesthe top notes in any dish.

There are now somany good chefs inSouth Africa that I have a job catching up,but I always try to seeMargot Janse andSusanHuxter at Le Quartier Français inFranschhoek. Margot is a fantastic chef andis constantly driving the Quartier to newlevels of quality with Susan, its owner.

If you look back at British restaurants in

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Stars of Samara: a cheetah, a bull kudu, zebra, the ManorHouse and 28,000 hectares of wildlife to explore

striving to do nothing less than rehabilitatea complete landscape. Farms have beenclosed, fences ripped up, the land left tobecome a paradise of centuries-oldshepherd’s trees and rampant spekboom,whose namemeans the “bacon tree” onaccount of its fat leaves.

The vastness of Samarameans thatguests as well as animals have a rich varietyof habitats to enjoy. Vervetmonkeys arehaving a swinging time down in the valleybushveld. Troops of baboons yomp acrossthe savanna. Bat-eared foxes are busytunnelling under the Nama Karoo. Up onthe plateau grasslands, gnus, zebra andblesbok are grazing in the evening sunlight.

Once you get deep into the Great Karoo,time takes on a newmeaning: 240m yearsago, this was amassive swampland—something similar to what is nowBotswana’s Okavango Delta.

It was in Karoo towns such as Cradockand Graaff-Reinet that the Afrikanersprepared for their Great Trek of the late

1830s. The greatmissionary Livingstonecalled the latter “the prettiest town in allAfrica”. It rests on a horseshoe-shaped bendin the Sundays River, a 50-minute drivewest of Samara. Elegant Cape Dutch andVictorian buildings gather round a DutchReformed church, while beyond lies the

Camdeboo National Park. Here the chiefattraction is the Valley of Desolation, wheresunset views are terrific.

Predators that were once hunted aretoday being treasured, including slinkybeasts such as Sibella, a cheetahwho hasgiven birth to several cubs and is now a starattraction at Samara.

When I go cheetah chasing, I spot Sibellaprowling near a dried-up river bed. Myguide and I are just 30metres away— soclose, in fact, that when our eyes brieflymeet I feel I should say “Hi” and give hermy business card. Thank you somuch forinvitingme, I really love your coat… Butluckily I’m no juicy young springbok, so Iam instantly dismissed. The new queen ofthe Karoo is holding court, and I’m just ahumble, and very lucky, spectator.

nAfrica Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk) has five nights’ full-board at SamaraPrivate Game Reserve from £1,995, including BAflights and Budget car hire

NIGEL TISDALL

a five-hole putting green,pétanque and a games room.Among the relaxing

activities available arestargazing, fishing, golf,canoeing and birdwatching,while a tour of Nemato —Nelson Mandela Township —can also be arranged.

SPARETREATPrana Lodge Private BeachEstate & Spa in Chintsa Eastwelcomes guests over the ageof 16 and has only seven suites,each with private garden andplunge pool.There’s an infinity pool

with lounge and bar, furtherlounges and gourmet dining.It also has a Thai spa andwellness centre offeringtailor-made therapies such asfacials, massages in pavilions

tucked away in the bush, aswell as yoga, Pilates andmeditation, a steam room,sauna and gym.Activities include surfing,

hiking, horse-riding, tennis, golf,fishing and birdwatching, andthere is 21km of desertedbeach to explore.

n Africa Travel (020 78433583, africatravel.co.uk) has aseven-night holiday in theEastern Cape from £2,225pp,including British Airways flights,three nights’ B&B at SingaLodge, four nights’ full-board atOceana Reserve and Budgethire car. Africa Travel also offersa seven-night stay at PranaLodge from £1,760pp, includingBA flights and hire car. Formore on the Eastern Cape, seewww.visiteasterncape.co.za Prana Lodge

Karoo

SOUTHAFRICA

Eastern Cape

Port Elizabeth EastLondon

Port Alfred

Chintsa EastKlein WinterhoekMountains

Graaff-Reinet

100 km

Samara game reserve

SouthAfrica6

There’s a sign at the entrance toSamara Private Game Reservethat asks drivers to slow to40kph— and “leave thespeeding to the cheetahs”. It’sa witty reminder that in this28,000-hectare sanctuary, a fewof these vulnerable bullets of

the bush are now lucky enough to live inregal isolation. Two hundred years ago, theGreat Karoo— the stark, elemental semi-desert that covers a third of South Africa—teemedwith wildlife. There were leopard,rhino, hippo, wildebeest, buffalo and thenow extinct Cape lion and zebra-like

quagga. Early travellers wrote of million-strong herds of migrating springbok.

Hunting, farming and settlement putpaid to all that, but at least here in one bravecorner of the Eastern Cape the destruction isbeing reversed. Founded 15 years ago by theUK-based conservation philanthropistsSarah andMark Tompkins, Samara is a vast,pioneering reserve formed of 11 reclaimedfarmswhere wild cheetah have beensuccessfully reintroduced, along with otherspecies including giraffe, eland, kudu, whiterhino and Capemountain zebra.

Just drive north from Port Elizabeth, overthe KleinWinterhoekmountains, and youreach an uplifting world of empty roads, bigskies and historic towns with streets builtwide enough to turn around an ox cart. Ifyouwant to tour in South Africa and gobeyond Cape Town and the Kruger, it couldnow be time to heed the call of the Karoo.

Be warned, though. The gates to Samarashould also carry the sign “Please adjustyourmind-set”. It is one of the five largest

private eco-reserves in South Africa. Thereare no tour groups, nominibuses, no trafficjams at the waterhole.What’s more, there’snomobile phone signal, no television andno bright lights after dark— just themassedflickering of hurricane lamps and a nightsky like a shower head of stars.

The reserve accommodates amaximumof 38 guests, spread over three locations.There’s the luxuriousManor House, withtowering jacaranda trees and a 21-metreswimming pool. Karoo Lodge is a colonial-style homewith antique riempie furnitureand leopard tortoises that power across thelawns like dowagers chasing afternoon tea.Or there is theMountain Retreat, a rusticVictorian homestead overlooking the remoteValley of the Bushman, where enigmaticKhoisan paintings from thousands of yearsago lie hidden in the rocks.

This is a reserve where guests get theirown private piece of Africa to play in, but itis only now that this visionary project iscoming to fruition. The Tompkinses are

Seaside gems

Bewitched by themajesty of KarooNigel Tisdall sees theSamara reserve’sbrave vision unfold

Eastern Cape is the second largest of South Africa’s nineprovinces, yet the least explored by international tourists,though its reputation as the birthplace and current home ofNelson Mandela is certainly putting it on the map. It’s an easyself-drive destination, malaria-free and good value for money,with 800km of unspoilt coastline. Stylish and luxuriousresorts and lodges are opening up to take advantage ofprime locations on the stunning coastline and the area’syear-round warm climate. Here are three of the best.

BOUTIQUELUXURYRelaxed and free of traffic jams,Port Elizabeth is a gateway toboth the Garden Route andEastern Cape’s safari reserves.Here you’ll find the boutiqueSinga Lodge, where each of its12 individually designed,opulent suites is separatedfrom the others by tropicalgardens. Outside, there’s an

open-air lounge close to asunken swimming pool, with anintimate poolside cocktail bar.Dinner is served in the privatedining room, or guests can dine— and relax with a massage— in the privacy of their suite.

WILDLIFEANDBEACHOceana Beach & WildlifeReserve in Port Alfred is only a

two-hour drive from PortElizabeth, yet it feels far moreremote. Here, guests can enjoya laid-back beach and bushexperience. The resort has a7km private beach and animalscan be spotted from theveranda. Sometimes whalesand dolphins can be sighted,too. Game drives are part of theexperience.

Oceana’s suites and chaletshave handcrafted furnishingsand artefacts, huge beds,bathrooms with walk-inshowers, whirlpool baths,large lounge areas, satellitetelevision, DVD players andwi-fi, as well as privatewooden decks.The resort has an Africa-

shaped swimming pool,

BOUTIQUELUXURY

Oceana Lodge

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There’sanelephant inourpool

Springbok summer

The Strauss family combined wildlife andhigh living at the Homestead in Phinda

Staying at the exclusive, sole-useHomesteadmeant all our experiences could betailored to fit with the family’s dreams (andtantrums). Our personal chef would cook usanything we asked for, feeding Sam and Lucaearly if necessary and indulging us with allmanner of treats, from delicious home-madesoups tomelt-in-the-mouth venison steaksand a wicked panna cotta.We loved the waywe could dine in a different location everynight— out on the viewing deck, in the bushwith lanterns hanging in the trees, by theboma (enclosure) with a blazing fire.

Life here felt very cosseting— yet rawnature was never far away. One afternoon,seconds after I’d been splashing aroundwithLuca, a towering elephant came stomping upto have a drink. The boys and I watched inawe as it dipped its trunk in the pool.

It wasn’t just the big animals that caughtour attention. Sam, in particular, loved goingout with the staff to hunt bugs and learn

bushcraft skills, such asmaking a fire usingjust a stick and dry grass. He also went fishingand came back proudly announcing he hadcaught “a hat trick”.

The good times continued whenwemovedon to the Oyster Box Hotel at UmhlangaRocks, a three-hour drive south. Close toDurban, this is a place I knowwell, havingvisited it in the past with the England cricketteam. It’s one of a handful of hotels that standout forme. It opened in 1947 and sits besidethe Indian Ocean, with a striking red andwhite lighthouse. The style is luxurious andcolonial. Last year, Prince Albert and PrincessCharlene of Monaco held their weddingreception here. I really enjoyed splashingabout in the pool with the boys, andwe allfound it refreshing to spend some time besidethe sea after the heat and dust of the bush.

There’s plenty to do, from playing on thebeach to taking the kids to uShakaMarineWorld, a water park in Durban. The Oyster

Box runs a complimentary shuttle to theenormous Gateway Theatre of Shoppingcomplex, plus there are several good golfcourses close by and big sports events andadrenaline experiences at theMosesMabhidaStadium. Head inland and you can extendyour trip to visit the soaringmountains of theDrakensberg and important battlefield sitessuch as Rorke’s Drift and Isandlwana.

For Ruth andme, the joy of staying herewas the hotel’s family-friendliness. Juniorguests get child-size bathrobes, special menusand a small cinema. Best of all, there’s acomplimentary children’s club, so parents canget time to relax, too.

Interview by Nigel Tisdall

nAndrew Strauss and family travelled with AfricaTravel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk). Fournights’ full-board at &Beyond PhindaHomestead,three nights’ B&B at Oyster BoxHotel, all flightsand transfers start at £12,990 for a family of four

two nights on safari at Kuzoko Lodge in theKaroo region of the Eastern Cape with allmeals and game drives, and two nights at theMarine Hotel in Port Elizabeth.

There’s more than just rugby. Also on theitinerary is a guided tour of Soweto, withvisits to the Hector PietersonMemorial, theChris Hani Baragwanath Hospital (thelargest in Africa), and some communitydevelopment projects.

The trip takes in the Cape wine region,with wine-tasting and visits to the historictowns of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl.A Cape Peninsula Tour incorporates a cruisepast the seals on Seal Island, a trip to the CapePoint nature reserve, penguins on BouldersBeach and Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

Four game drives are included in the stayat Kuzuko Lodge.

Meanwhile, a platinum trip for only20 people will include three nights inJohannesburg, three nights in the RoyalLivingstone Hotel at Victoria Falls, and fournights on safari at Pumba Game Reserve, aswell as the second and third Tests.

And on an exclusive, five-star trip escortedand hosted by two former internationalplayers — names to be confirmed in the nexttwoweeks— you can fly out ahead of thegroup to see the first Test in Durban, stayingat the luxurious Zimbali Resort.

nHolidays can also be tailor-made; contact AfricaTravel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk)

Flying: South Africa’sFrançois Hougaard

SouthAfrica8

Iwas born in Johannesburg and spent thefirst six years of my life in South Africa,so it was a thrill to go back there recentlyfor a classic bush-and-beach holidaywithmy young family. It wasn’t justabout getting a break from international

cricket — I havemany happymemories oftaking trips withmy parents and three oldersisters to see the wildlife of the KrugerNational Park and play beside the IndianOcean. This is an amazing country and I reallywanted to show it off tomy Australian wife,Ruth, and our two boys.

Taking small children on safari mightsound a bit mad— Sam is five and Luca justthree— but South Africa is well geared up for

this kind of adventure.Wemade things easyby sticking to amalaria-free area, whichavoids all the hassle of making childrenswallow pills, and I ensured we arrived ingood shape by booking a 90-minute privatecharter flight direct from Johannesburg toour game reserve, close to the east coast ofKwaZulu-Natal. Thanks to a few localthunderstorms it proved quite eventful, butyou just can’t beat seeing the peaks and plainsof Africa from the window of a small aircraft.

Ruth and I picked a well-established,top-end reserve that knows how tomake afamily feel they’re doing somethingadventurous while still being safe andcomfortable. Part of the &Beyond collection

of luxury lodges, Phinda ismassive— a23,000-hectare sanctuary with seven distincthabitats that include woodland, grasslandandwetland, so there’s always plenty ofinteresting wildlife to see. Guests can stay atone of six locations that range frommountainside to sand forest.We opted for theHomestead, a four-suite villa with stunningviews and a superb team of staff that includedour own ranger, tracker, butler and chef.

At Phinda, the sense of privacy andimmersion in the bush is exceptional. Duringour entire stay, the only other guests we sawwere a few fellowwildlife-spotters out ongame drives. The animals, of course, are thehighlight and at Phinda they’ve goteverything— lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant,the endangered black rhino.We also loved thescampering baboons, the yawning hippos andthe kudu, which have a white stripe acrossthe face that remindedme of the sunblockwarpaint certain cricketers like to wear.

There’sanelephant inourpool

Join in the action of a

England cricket captainAndrew Straussenjoys a safari-filled holidaywith his family

Rugby union fans are set to swarm intoSouth Africa in June to watch thenew-look England side take on theSpringboks in a three-Test summer tour

— the first in the tourists’ history—withmatches in Durban, Johannesburg and PortElizabeth on June 9, 16 and 23.

“It’s going to be an unmissable Test series,with a chastened England out to prove theyare indeed one of the best teams in the world— andwithout JonnyWilkinson— after avery disappointingWorld Cup in NewZealand,” says England rugby legendLawrence Dallaglio. The Springboks are alsoundergoing big changes after surrenderingtheWorld Cup last year, andwill be doingtheir best to stop the rot.

“South Africans are as passionate abouttheir rugby as we are, so the atmosphere at allthree Tests will be electric,” Dallaglio predicts.

“South Africa is an awesome country, too.I have visited a few times, and I can’t think ofa better reason to go than to witness somefirst-class rugby.”

Africa Travel is offering escorted tours thatincludematch tickets. For example, itsnine-night holiday, with tickets to the secondand third Tests, costs from £3,300pp andincludes B&B accommodation, lunch beforebothmatches andmany othermeals.

Transport will be by air-conditioned,44-seat coach and the stay includes two nightsat the Da Vinci Hotel in Johannesburg, threenights at the Commodore Hotel, Cape Town,

Rainbow rugby: theSpringboks’ fansare passionate

22.01.12 11thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica

Wildlifespectaclemeetsdesignerchic (fromleft): whale-watching atthe Grootbosnaturereserve;giraffes strollby the water’sedge outsidethe ChitwaHouse;inspectingancient Sanart in a caveat BushmansKloof; and theluxuriousSabi SabiEarth Lodge

Young hunters: a packof African wild dogs

hands-onwith everything from beetles totortoises, and nannies are on hand to giveparents a break. Activities include boattrips, jeep safaris and guided walks inelephant territory. Meals are relaxed, takenindoors or around the campfire. Best of all,it’s amalaria-free zone— ideal for children.Leeuwenbosch Country House starts at £180ppa night, full-board, including drinks and gameactivities

BEST FORMARINE SAFARISGrootbos Private Nature Reserve,Western CapeTwo hours’ drive from Cape Town,overlooking a long stretch of whitebeach-fringed nature reserve backed bymajestic hills, this area feels almostuntouched byman. That’s the point: thefocus at Grootbos is on nature. Both theForest and Garden lodges were sensitivelybuilt using local stone andwood; they aresurrounded by a protected botanical reserverich with fynbos and ancientmilkwoodtrees and overlook seas heaving withcreatures. As well as activities such asguided plant walks, horse-riding and bikerides, trips can be arranged toWalker Bay,where boats will take you to see whales ontheir annualmigration (from June toNovember). There are also sailings to a60,000-strong Cape seal colony and to seachannels, where the strong of heart areinvited to put on a wetsuit, climb into acage and swim, surrounded by sharks.Grootbos starts at £125pp a night, full-board,including horse-riding, guided walks, and nature,marine and coastal drives

BEST FOR A PRIVATE GROUPRoyal Private Villa, Thanda Private GameReserve, KwaZulu-NatalOriginally built for the reserve’s owner, DanOlofsson, this is not only one of themostglamorous bush houses on the continent,

but one of the biggest. In KwaZulu-Natal,400kmnorth of Durban, the enormousdouble-height, thatched space has a primeposition on the 5,200-hectare reserve: ona hill, overlooking a waterhole, with fiveensuite bedrooms, a library and gamesroom, and even a heated pool (for nippyevenings). The house can be taken only by aprivate group, and every bit of the stay isbespoke, from game activities and spatreatments to themenus. Local guides arefriendly and enthusiastic, there’s a Zuluvillage for children to learn about theculture, and the reserve is only 40minutes’drive from the beach— so it’s ideal for anindulgent family bush-and-beach holiday.Thanda Royal Private Villa starts at £4,350 anight, full-board, including drinks and gamedrives

BEST FOR HONEYMOONERSThe ChitwaHouse, Chitwa Chitwa, SabiSand Private Game Reserve,MpumalangaBuilt as a private bush home by SouthAfricans Charl andMaria Brink in 1991, inthe game-filled Sabi Sand, the ChitwaHouse is about five hours’ drive fromJohannesburg (or a 90-minute flight).

Maria is a painter — and it shows. Thetwo-bedroom house has glamorousfurnishings and is full of artistic touches,from four-poster beds backed by wall-sizedpaintings to giraffe sculptures watchingover the egg-shaped bath. The house has itsown pool, kitchen, living area and deck, andis staffed by its own butler, chef, tracker andguide. There’s a spa on site, as well as a shopfilled with tasteful gifts.The ChitwaHouse starts at £2,255, full-board anight, including game drives, drinks and laundry

BEST FOR ESCAPINGBushmans KloofWilderness Reserve &Wellness Retreat,Western CapeSituated in the sparsely populatedCederbergMountains, 2½hours’ drive fromCape Town through beautiful mountainousscenery, Bushmans Kloof is a nature escape,rather than a game reserve. The focus hereis on the spectacular surroundings, thewaterfalls and rivers. There are hikes (toexplore caves rich with ancient San art),and treats to help guests chill out (bicycles,natural pools, hiking trails, kayaks, librariesand a top-notch spa). It’s a place to enjoyhealthy, delicious food, indulge in spatherapies using local botanical oils, takelongwalks through bush thick with winterflowers, to fish, kayak, and simply hangout, taking in the vast African skies. Allrooms have verandas and garden views;the private Koro Lodge sleeps six, plus fourchildren, and has its own pool, gardenand staff.Bushmans Kloof starts at £160pp a night,full-board, including nature drives, rock-artexcursions, botanical walks, canoeing, archery,fly-fishing, hiking and swimming

nAll safaris can be booked as part of a SouthAfrican itinerary through Africa Travel (020 78433583, africatravel.co.uk), which can advise on thebest options for you

Johannesburg

CapeTown

KrugerNationalPark

AmakhalaGame ReserveAmakhalaGame ReserveGrootbosGrootbos

Thanda & Phindagame reserves

BushmansKloof Reserve

500 km

SouthAfrica10

The southernmost tip of theAfrican continent is home toone of the planetsmostspectacular collections ofwildlife. Most obviously, it’swhere you go to see lion,leopard, elephant, rhino andbuffalo (the gang that used to

be the biggest attraction to big gamehunters, and known for that reason as the‘big five’) andmore than 500 species ofbirds. And there are animals so rarely seenthat somewildlife enthusiasts will spend alifetime trying to spot them: the aardvark,porcupine, aardwolf and Pel’s fishing owl.

Withmore than 3,000km of coastline,and 21 national parksmade up ofecosystems ranging frommangrove to sanddunes, South Africa can offer virtually everysort of safari, for every level of expertise andbudget. For seasoned safari-goers, there areprivate desert camps in the KgalagadiTransfrontier Park fromwhich to seecheetah hunt in the sand,meerkats poppingout of dusty holes and eagles soaring onthermals. Those keen to see leopardmightsave up for Londolozi, where the creatureslive near camps almost as resplendent astheir golden coats. Bird-loversmight headfor budget lodges in KwaZulu-Natal, whereat St Luciamore than 400 feathered speciesnest near beaches onwhich loggerheadturtles lay their eggs. Families can driveto Addo Elephant Park, near Port Elizabeth,to stay in cottages and see great herds atclose quarters.

Self-drive adventurers shouldmake for

Kruger National Park, where tens ofthousands of creatures reside in a space thesize of the Netherlands, prowling androaring around the camps at night.

Becausemost South Africans appreciatethe outdoors and relish exploring the bush,the range of accommodation is wider herethan anywhere else in Africa. Nationalparks offer simple camp sites, farmers haveconverted old homesteads into cosy guesthouses, hip hoteliers have created bushgetaways characterised by sleek designs andhigh-tech toys, and for lovers of luxurythere are boutique camps as sophisticatedas any urban hotel.

Game parks are well managed (it’sa big business, after all) and impressivelyknowledgeable, eagle-eyed trackers andlocal guides reveal their country’s naturalassets with genuine enthusiasm. Bestof all, there’s not really a bad time to visit,although game is best viewed betweenApril and October— the Africanwinter —when visibility is better in the dry bush andwhen days are (generally) rain-free andevenings crisp.

Here are a few suggestions for a SouthAfrican safari, from camps beloved of rockstars to family-focused retreats.

BEST FOR SUPER-LUXURYSabi Sabi Earth Lodge, Sabi Sand PrivateGame Reserve,MpumalangaArchitecturally themost dramatic — andthemost luxurious— of the four Sabi Sabicamps in a private 65,000-hectare gamereserve, this is an hour’s flight or five hours’drive from Johannesburg— so an ideal firstor last stopoff on atrip to South Africa. SabiSabi is located in the southwest of theKruger, in a game-rich area known for BigFive sightings, but it is the luxuries thatluremost guests: butler-serviced suites,elegantlyminimalist interiors, a privatepool, a richly stocked cellar and excellentfood, the Amani spa with sculpted earthwalls, and unusually comfortable safarivehicles. The furnishings are one-offs, withgiant tree trunks transformed into a bar orexotic bedsteads. Sunk into the earth (henceits name), with only the occasional curvedwall or dome interrupting the naturallandscaping, the camp induces a realsense of calm.Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge starts at £740pp a night,full-board, including drinks, game drives andwalks

BEST FOR FAMILY SAFARISLeeuwenbosch Country House, AmakhalaGame Reserve, Eastern CapeBefore Europeans arrived here, on theeasternmost point of the Garden Route, thewilderness was teemingwith game:elephants evenmeandered onto beaches.That’s why, in 1999, six neighbouringfarmers decided to convert their sheepfarms into a game reserve.

Of the seven lodges within the private,18,000-hectare Amakhala reserve,Leeuwenbosch is themost family-friendly.It was created from an original farmhouseinhabited by the Fowlds family since 1873.Rooms,manywith deep verandas, lead ontogardens in which children can play. “Littlefive” tours enable the very young to get

Safaris come inmanystyles and prices,says Lisa Grainger

Back tonaturefor thegreatestshowonearth

Prize catch: a lilac-breasted roller

22.01.12 13thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica

Frans Lemmens

Take the rocky road toHellhole”, he found himself in a vast limestonecavern of stalactites and stalagmites formedovermillenniums into natural sculptures.

The Cango Caves on the road toOudtshoorn have since been explored andilluminated for guided tours throughspectacular galleries dubbed King Solomon’sMines and Devil’sWorkshop.

The road back to Cape Town drops out ofthemountains to the Indian Ocean atGeorge, then heads for the last foothold inAfrica. Many people assume the Cape ofGood Hope is the southern tip of thecontinent, but it’s not. That distinctionbelongs to Cape Agulhas— the dreadedCape of Needles, so called by 16th-centuryPortuguese navigators who discovered toolate that their compass needles gave falsereadings around the point.

It is a place to stand and stare at anendless horizon, where the Atlantic andIndian oceans clash in fierce currents,and to wonder at the courage of the firstEuropeans who sailed past in flimsy shipswith no idea of what dangers lay ahead.

Fortunately the last cafe in Africa isnearby, along with themost southerlylighthouse, museum and guest lodge.

If Agulhas is a landmark, the nearbyfishing village of Arniston is a scenic gem.On one side of the bay is a small holidayresort of individual houses by the sea, andon the other is an old fishing village oflime-washed cottages with thatched roofsthat has inspired generations of artists. On

both sides the land stretches to far horizonswith beaches, dunes and rocky outcrops.

The settlement was named after a Britishtroop ship that sank off the Agulhas reef in1815, and the sea and its moods stilldominate the lives of those who depend onit. The local community welcomes visitorswith simple tearooms and a craft shop. Formore sophisticated treats there are alwaysthe elegant restaurant, bars and spa ofthe Arniston Hotel a few steps away.

Notmuch further, in the town ofBredasdorp, is amapmarked withmore than 100 red andwhite circles.Each denotes a shipwreck on a45-mile stretch of local coastline,and the little museum inwhich ithangs is a treasure trove of bits andbobs, once proud ships’ figureheadsand stirring tales from vessels thatwere lost over the centuries.

There are also lots of whales. Inparticular, this coast is a tunnel oflove for southern right whales thatmigrate to it every year tomate andcalve in the warm, nutrient-rich waters.And they don’t care who’s watching. Theresort of Hermanus claims to have thebest shore-based whale-watching in theworld, with the statelymammalsfrolicking in view ofmiles of beaches.

The R44 offers a fitting finale to anoffbeat tour. FromKleinmond toGordon’s Bay, it snakes around thehills of the Kogelberg reserve, clings to

rocky shores, and leads to hamlets of freespirits drawn by the beauty of naturearound them. Pringle Bay ismy favourite,with all the ingredients — beaches, rockpools, headlands and funky restaurants.

A fewmiles further on, Rooiels has onepub/restaurant popular with bikers,providing basic beer and burger fare, andthe latest rugby gossip. It is a cheap andcheerful place, a few steps from a smallbeach of sheltered water.

It is from here that themagnificentpanorama of False Bay opens up, withthe distinctive profile of TableMountain in the distance. Cape Townis known in South Africa as theMother City and, at the end of ajourney, the rock of ages soaring aboveit is like a colossal sign saying“Welcome home”.

nGavin Bell is the author of SomewhereOver the Rainbow—Travels in SouthAfrica (Abacus)nAfrica Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk) arranges tailor-made holidays to theWestern Cape. Nine nights, including onenight B&B at the LordMilner Hotel,Swartberg Hotel and ArnistonHotels, twonights’ B&B in Oudtshoorn at the RosenhofCountry House, two nights’ full-board atGrootbos Private Nature Reserve and

two nights’ B&B in Cape Town atKensington Place, start at £1,795pp,with BA flights and Budget hire car

Natural sculpture:formations at Cango

Dizzying: the hairpinin Swartberg Pass

Elegance: theLord Milner hotel

Mountain excitement:the road to Swartberg

Eric Nathan

SouthAfrica12

The road to “The Hell” is pavedwith gravel and sand, and itwinds among scarredmountains that look as if theyare screaming. It is a wild andlonely place, but there is asurprise at the end of the road— and an old haunt of the

Sultan of Zanzibar along the way.The “lost” valley in the Swartberg of the

Western Cape that locals called The Hell isanything but. Its real name is Gamkaskloof,or ravine of the lions, a sheltered swatheof fertile land high in themountainswhere a reclusive community of Afrikanerfarmers lived formore than a century. Itearned its nickname from a livestockinspector who had to trek 15miles toexamine the goats and cattle, long beforethe road was built. “It’s hell to get to,” hepronounced, and the name stuck.

When the road was finally built in 1962,it was hailed as a lifeline for the fiercelyindependent community. Instead it was adeath knell, for within 30 years everyonehad left and the valley was abandoned tobaboons and prowling leopards.

Human life has returned to the valley in

recent years, with the restoration of oldfarm buildings as self-catering cottages, anda bush restaurant. Yet it remains a quiet,remote sanctuary inmagnificent scenery,and getting there and back again is half thefun on an adventurous tour throughdesert, mountains and coastal hamlets.

The N1 highway out of Cape Townwinds diagonally through SouthAfrica to Johannesburg and theLimpopo. Considerably closer is ahistorical gem, on the edge ofthe Great Karoo desert. In the1880s, Matjiesfontein waslittle more than a refreshmentroom on the way to theKimberley diamond fields.Jimmy Logan, a young Scottish railwaysuperintendent, acquired the concession,promoted the dry desert air as a healthcure, and Victorian society flocked to it.

Cecil John Rhodes, Lord RandolphChurchill and the Sultan of Zanzibarwere among fashionable guests who rodeon the train from Cape Town to Logan’sresort to “take the air”.

The faded elegance of the LordMilnerHotel still dominates its main street,

where Logan installed lampposts importedfrom London, and once a day a red Londonbus pootles up and down the road.

Off the N1, on a quiet district roadleading into the Great Swartberg, is PrinceAlbert, a sleepy huddle of Victorian andCape Dutch cottages blessed with a fine oldcountry hotel. This is a Hansel and Gretelvillage beneath an African sky, and at night— by the light of candles, paraffin lampsandwood-burning stoves— its cottages arethe last word in cosiness.

It is from here that one of themostdramaticmountain roads in South Africaclimbsmore than 1,500metres in hairpinbends tomeet the gravel road toGamkaskloof. The lonely trackmeanders for 30km over aTolkienesque wilderness until itplunges down into the narrowgreen valley, a profusion ofmimosa, wild olive andmilkwood trees.

Baboons roam here, with buckand the kudu, and leopards prowl amongthem— although these shy, nocturnalpredators are rarely seen. There is anglingin the river and hiking trails, butmostvisitors are content to relax and absorb theatmosphere of a place that is more likeheaven than hell.

A fewmiles over themountains, anequally hiddenwonderland is said to havebeen discovered in 1780 by a herder lookingfor lost cattle. Lowered by rope into a “big

The lost valley of Gamkaskloof is a sanctuaryamidmagnificent scenery, writesGavinBell

Take the rocky road toHell

N1

N2

Matjiesfontein

PrinceAlbert

Cango Caves

George

Cape Agulhas

Gamkaskloof

Oudtshoorn

KleinmondGordon's BayRooiels

KogelbergNatureReserve

Cape Town

ArnistonBredasdorp

Hermanus

100 km

22.01.12 15thesundaytimes.co.uk/southafrica

JohnWarburton-Lee

Portuguese colonial capital until 1898, andvisit two isolated communities where timehas stood still, leaving a unique blend ofAfrican, Arab and Portuguese cultures.

Or stay on Ibo Island, amagical andmysterious place, where Portuguese shipstrading with the Far East had to register —there are three forts, 10mosques, achurch, a customs house and a beautiful

18th-century square. On nearby QuilaleaIsland, 18 guests can stay in the refurbishedlodge Azura; there are no other inhabitants.The island is in a protectedmaritimereserve, and is a haven for nesting turtles.

When you board the plane inMaputofor the flight home via Johannesburg, therewill be time to reflect on howwell threevery different countries fit into one holiday.

nAfrica Travel (020 7843 3583, africatravel.co.uk) can tailor an itinerary through the threecountries to suit individual tastes. For example,it has two nights’ B&B at the Table BayHotel,two nights’ B&B at the Royal Livingstone, twonights’ full-board with game activities atCamp Jabulani, and three nights’ half-boardatWhite Pearl resort from £3,995pp, includingBritish Airways flights

CapeTown

Livingstone

ZAMBIAZAMBIA

Maputo

Kruger Mpumalanga

MOZAMBIQUEMOZAMBIQUE

SOUTHAFRICASOUTHAFRICA

Johannesburg

500 km

White Pearl resortsuite, Ponta Mamoli

Aerial view of theVictoria Falls

Quilalea island,Mozambique

SouthAfrica14

New flight routes, better roadsand a proliferation of desirablyluxurious resorts and lodgesmean that travellers whowantto combine adventure andcomfort have huge swathes ofsouthern Africa at theirdisposal. Some of the

continent’s mostmemorable experiencescan be linked in a hassle-free itinerary thatcombines city glitz, natural wonders,wildlife encounters and pristine beaches.

Start in Cape Town, the region’s prettiestcity. Book in to the five-star Table Bay Hoteland take a seat on the terrace for apanoramic view that takes in the waterfrontand the wild Atlantic as well as TableMountain.Within range of a comfortableday trip are the dramatic coastline of theCape Peninsula and the wineries andrestaurants of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch(see pages 4-5 for Heston Blumenthal’s tips).

Once sated by the delights of the Cape,you can head north for Zambia and thespectacular Victoria Falls — less than threehours away on the new direct flight fromCape Town to Livingstone with Kulalaairlines. Here, the world’s largest sheet offalling water plunges 108metres into theZambezi river: you can hear the falls frommiles away as a low rumble, which becomesa roar as you get closer. Stay at the RoyalLivingstone Hotel, a colonial-style propertywith perfectlymanicured lawns on thebanks of the river. Not only can you hear thefalls, but the spray from the cascading wateris a constant distraction from your breakfastor sundowner on the terrace overlookingthe river.

Waterproofs are of little use against thevolume of spray on the walkways under thefalls, particularly in the rainy season fromFebruary toMay. During the dry season, inOctober and November, gleaming blackbasalt can be seen beneath the water, butthe heatmakes this an uncomfortable timeto visit. A flight by helicopter ormicrolitegives you a wonderful panoramic view ofthe falls, including the elephants onLivingstone Island and the bridge that linksZambia and Zimbabwe across the Zambezi.

Another quick flight takes you back intoSouth Africa at KrugerMpumalanga airport,a short drive from Camp Jabulani on theedge of the Kruger National Park. Safaristake on a new dimension here, with guestsgoing on gamewalksmounted on elephantsrescued from Zimbabwe. The first to arrivewas an abandoned baby found in a ravine;he was named Jabulani, and this is hiskingdom—hemay not be as big, as grandor as old as some of the others, but he leadseachwalk andwon’t move until the rest ofthe troop have fallen in behind him. Afterdark these extraordinary creatures canplough through the bush silently, theirpassengers enjoying a far better view thanfrom the back of a Jeep.When you return tocamp, you help bed the elephants down for

the night. Your own bedding-downexperience is also rather special, for CampJabulani is one of themost luxurious lodgesin the area, with just six huge, opulentsuites, delicious food and perfect service.

Africa Travel will arrange a car and adriver to take you from Jabulani toMaputoinMozambique— a route which includesthe green and spectacular Blyde River

Canyon. Mozambique’s pristine beaches arenow home to chic resorts such asWhitePearl at PontaMamoli, where each suite hasan ocean view and its own private plungepool, or Coral Lodge, which has a naturereserve to one side and the Indian Ocean toanother. Its 10 villas are built on top ofdunes to get a cool breeze from the ocean.You can exploreMozambique Island, the

Jo Foley adds ZambiaandMozambique toher itinerary for ahassle-free odyssey

Winning trebleof adventures

Rescued elephantsat Camp Jabulani

Royal LivingstoneHotel in Zambia

16 22.01.12THE SUNDAY TIMES thesundaytimes.co.uk