Further inland, Mottisfont Abbey standsin beautiful countryside near the famousRiver Test. Originally a 12th-centurypriory, it was made into a private houseafter Henry VIII’s split with the CatholicChurch. Tel:01794 340757.
At Southwick, you can see the church ofSt James. Rebuilt in 1566 by John Whyte(a servant of the Earl of Southampton),it is a rare example of a post-Reformation Tudor church and wellworth a visit. The interesting thingabout the church is its date. At a timewhen churches were either being torndown, or their decoration removed, hereis a church that was newly built. It isespecially noteworthy for its three-decker pulpit, its gallery, reredos (screenbehind the altar) and box pews. Thereare monuments to John Whyte (d.1567)and his wife (d.1548).
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SouthwickParish Church
A31M3
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A272
A33
A34
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The map shows the area aroundWinchester and places of interest relatingto the Tudor period. Towns mentioned in
this leaflet all appear on this map.
The Tudors beyondWinchester
Bishop’s Waltham Palace
T U D O R SExplore Winchester’s Tudor history and
test your knowledge of the period
Over 500 years ago, in 1485, Henry VII became the first king of theTudor royal family. The War of the Roses had just ended and this,added to the population decrease and economic instability alreadybrought by the Black Death and the Hundred Years War, was toherald a period of steady decline for Winchester.
However, the city was still favoured by a succession of Tudormonarchs, hosting a royal birth, christening and later a wedding.Winchester is a showcase of buildings, ruins and artefacts thatplayed a part in this extraordinary period of regal history - step intothe cathedral and you’re entering Queen Mary’s wedding venue!Read on to discover the stories behind our Round Table in the GreatHall, an ornate Tudor ceiling in the Westgate, the ruins of WolveseyCastle, Winchester Castle, Bishop’s Waltham Palace and more...
Journey out of Winchester a few miles and you will findthese interesting places with Tudor connections.Before her wedding, Mary travelled to Winchester fromLondon, staying with Bishop Gardiner at his castle inFarnham and then on to his palace at Bishop’s Waltham.This medieval palace stood in a 10,000-acre park and hadbeen a favourite hunting spot for Henry VIII. Bishopsoccupied the palace until the early 17th-century when itwas destroyed during the Civil War. The extensive ruins areworth a visit today, and events are sometime staged there.Tel: 01962 840500.
Old Basing House, home of the Lord Treasurer, WilliamPaulet, was a huge castle, converted in Tudor times into alarge private house. Mary andPhilip were entertained thereafter their wedding. Thehouse, like many others, wasdamaged in the Civil Warand fell into ruins coveringabout 10 acres. Today youcan see the remains ofTudor kitchens, towers,and a recently recreatedearly 17th-century formalgarden. Tel: 01256 467294.To the south is the famous seaport of Portsmouth, wherein 1494 Henry VII built a square masonry tower. A year later he added a dockyard where royal warshipscould be built and repaired. Fifty years later, Henry VIIIbuilt Southsea Castle at the harbour entrance. It was fromhere that Henry saw disaster strike his ship the Mary Rose:she was sunk by the French in Portsmouth Harbour.
You can see her now in Portsmouthdockyard.
The south coast and the Solent inparticular had to be protectedagainst the marauding foreignships and Calshot Castle and HurstCastle were both positioned to dojust this, Calshot at the entranceto Southampton Water, and HurstCastle further west.
9. A famous Tudor
sailed around the
world in aship called
the Golden Hind.
What was
his name?
8. How would youdescribe a formal garden? Can youname any of the plants that they might contain?
Quiz answers1. 10 is X; 50 is L; 100 is C; 500 is D;1,000 is M. Try writing 1554.
2. There are 25 knights. Some ofthe names are Sir Galahad, SirLancelot du Lac, Sir Gawain, SirMordred. Can you add to these?
3. Richard III (Battle of Bosworth);The Merry Wives of Windsor; HenryVIII.
4. All the niches are empty. Thestatues were removed along with allother images of God or the saints inhuman form. Similar empty nichescan be seen on the east face ofWestgate.
5. Winchester has no local stoneother than flint. Most of the squarestones came from the Isle of Wight,which is about 45 kilometres away.The stones were part of the two
abbeys, Hyde and St Mary’s,that were torn downduring the time ofHenry VIII.
6. The stone-builtcellar was fireproof sothis is where themerchant kept his expensive goods.Because stone was expensive, theliving areas were made of wood andplaster.
7 Mills were, and still are, used forgrinding corn. The wheels weremade of wood, and later ones ofstone, quartz being the bestmaterial for its hardwearing quality.
8. Formal gardens are laid out in aprecise way. Plants would includeherbs that were spread on floors toimprove the smell of a house.
9. Sir Francis Drake
?Did you know?Henry VIII is said tohave had over70,000 peopleexecuted while hewas king.Winchester had itsown gallows sitedto the north of thetown, off theAndover Road. Atthe Jolly Farmer pubthere is a list ofnames of peopleexecuted.Beaumond(see city map) wasthe place wherepeople were burnedat the stake.
“The trumpetes sounded; and thus both returned hand in hand …the Queengoing always on the right hand ...until mass was done; and immediatelyafter they returned to the Bishop's Palace.”The marriage of Queen Mary and King Philip II of Spain in WInchester, asrecorded by the English Heralds.
If you would like this leaflet in another a larger please email [email protected] or call
01962 840 500 to discuss your requirement. www.visitwinchester.co.uk
Damian Lewis as Henry VIII on set in Winchester during the filming of Wolf Hall. © Company Pictures / Playground Entertainment for BBC. Photograph by Giles Keyte
Images of Philip and Mary courtesy of the National Portrait Gallery, London
Tudor monarchsOne of Henry VII’s favourite houses was WinchesterCastle where his first son, Arthur, was born and thenchristened at the cathedral, the first Tudor royalceremony to be held in the city. When Arthur died, Henry’ssecond son Henry VIII becameking. Probably best known forhaving six wives, Henry VIIIcaused a great political andreligious upheaval when hesplit from the Catholic Churchof Rome and established theChurch of England, thus givinghim the freedom to remarry. In 1522, Henry entertained the Kingof Spain and Holy Roman Emperor, Charles V,at Winchester Castle’s Great Hall, when Charles was ableto look at the newly painted Round Table with its centralTudor rose and portrait of King Arthur.
The painting is a real bit of Tudorone-upmanship. Arthur in thepicture looks like the beardedHenry, and Arthur’s fame hadspread throughout Europe andformed an integral part of theChivalric Code. The point beingmade by the picture is that Henrycould trace his family back to KingArthur and then to the emperors of
Ancient Rome. This was further backthan Charles V who at that time was Holy
Roman Emperor. The position of the Tudor rose motif atthe centre of the painting emphasises Henry’s legitimateright to the throne.When Henry VIII died in 1547 his son Edward VI, agednine, became king. During thisshort reign – he was fifteenwhen he died – his religiouspolicies led to the arrest andimprisonment in the Tower ofLondon of many leadingCatholics. Amongst these werethe Bishop of Winchester,Stephen Gardiner, and theWarden of Winchester Collegeboys’ school, Dr John White.
The next Tudor to come to the throne was Mary I – a Catholicwho became known as ‘Bloody Mary’ because she imprisonedProtestants and burned 300 at the stake. Her marriage to Philip IIof Spain, another Catholic, was unpopular. They married inWinchester, part of the reason being that there was less likelihoodof a riot there than in London. The wedding took place on 25 July1554: a grand ceremony in Winchester Cathedral, but a miserablemarriage.Our last Tudor was the great Elizabeth I, the second daughter ofHenry VIII. Her reign, sometimes called a Golden Age, began in1558 until her death in 1603. She was a determined leader indangerous times, totally committed to her role as queen, somuch so that she ordered the execution of her cousin –another Mary – Queen of Scots.
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Mary & Philip’s wedding25 July 1554 – St James’s Day (patron saint of Spain)
In July 1554 Philip sailed up the SouthamptonWater to Southampton, whereupon Marycalled ‘all noblemen, gentlemen, ladies andothers’ to Winchester for the wedding. Shemoved to Wolvesey Castle in Winchester asPhilip travelled to the city, stopping off at theHospital of St Cross on the way. He entered thecity through Southgate to the sounds of trumpets,bells and cannon shot. Later that day, he metMary for the first time where a courtierpronounced her ‘old, badly dressed and almosttoothless’. However, the wedding took place,with the cathedral hung with tapestries and banners that coveredthe damage caused by Henry VIII’s men during the religiousconflict known as the Reformation. The King and Queen then setoff along the Roman road to Basing House, 20 miles north ofWinchester. A month later, Philip left for Spain, returning threeyears later for a few months before leaving again, forever. Marydied shortly after.
W O L F H A L L in Winchester
B E A U T Y A N D H I S T O RY
For details of opening times, admissions, tours, services and events please call us on 01962 857 200 (Monday to Friday) or visit the website: www.winchester-cathedral.org.uk
Claire Foy as Anne Boleyn on set in Winchester during the filming ofWolf Hall. © Company Pictures / Playground Entertainment for BBC.Photograph by Giles Keyte
m.(1)
m
m.(2) m.(3) m.(4) m.(5) m.(6)
Henry VIIr.1485–1509
Elizabethof York
Arthurd.1502
Henry VIIIr.1509–1547
Catherineof Aragondivorced
Anne Boleynexecuted 1536
Jane Seymourd.1537
Anneof Cleeves
divorced
CatherineHoward
executed 1542
Catherine Parr
d.1548
Philip II of Spain d.1598
Mary Ir.1553–1558
Elizabeth Ir.1558–1603
Edward VIr.1547–1553
Winchester’s historic cityscapemakes it a popular film location forperiod dramas. The city provided abackdrop for the acclaimed Tudordrama Wolf Hall (2015) – adaptedfrom books by author HilaryMantel. Winchester Cathedral, theGreat Hall and the Hospital of StCross (a medieval almshouse) alloffered convincing settings forvarious scenes.
Why not book a walking tour thattakes in some of Winchester’sfamous landmarks from the Tudortimes? Winchester’s Tourist Guidesrun a special Tudor walking tour onrequest. Visitwww.winchestertouristguides.comor contact Winchester TouristInformation Centre on 01962 840 500 for details.
Did you know?After its Tudor decline Winchester would notflourish again until the 19th century when therailway was built.
Great Hall Winchester@greathallwinch
www.hants.gov.uk/greathall Winchester
Sixpence, called ‘TheKissing Coin’, issued tomark the wedding ofMary and Philip
2. How many Knights
of the Round
Table are there?
Can you name
some of them?
1. How good are yourRoman numerals?How are numbers10, 50,100, 500and 1,000written?
3. About this timeWilliam Shakespeare
was writing.Can you name any ofhis plays relatingto the Tudors?
www.visitwinchester.co.uk
WestgateOne of five medieval gates, this was the main entranceinto the city. The two stone shields on the west frontwere a sort of noticeboard where the coat-of-arms ofimportant visitors were painted on. In the WestgateMuseum you can see Dr John White’s painted ceiling, aswell as Tudor objects.
Winchester Castle and the Great HallOne of the strongest fortresses in Britain, started in 1070 byWilliam the Conqueror, the Great Hall was built in 1222 andis one of the finest surviving medieval halls. In 1603, the yearElizabeth I died, the courts moved here from Westminster toavoid the plague. It was here that the one-time favourite ofElizabeth I, Sir Walter Raleigh, was tried and found guilty ofplotting with Spain against England.
Wolvesey CastleSince Saxon times, the bishops of Winchesterlived here. More a fortified residence than acastle, it was here, in 1554, that Mary I stayedbefore her wedding to Philip of Spain, and thisis where she held her wedding banquet. Afterthat, the building gradually fell into disuse.
City Mill Mentioned in theDomesday Book,the mill was one of13 in the city.Reflecting thedecline ofWinchester inHenry VIII’s time,the mill wasneglected andceased working.The site was given to the city to help pay for thecost of Mary and Philip’s wedding in 1554. Themill was eventually restored in 1743.
St Mary’s AbbeyThis was one of the main nunneries in England.Abbess Elizabeth Shelley (see Tudor Wintonians inthis leaflet) gave up the house to Henry VIII andsoon after it was abandoned. Mary gave the landto the city to help cover her wedding costs.
The site is now occupied by the Guildhall, andAbbey House is the residence of the Mayor ofWinchester.
St John’s HospitalFounded by the city’s merchants in 1294 tocare for the elderly and unwell, it was thishospital that Ralf Lamb gave money to (seeTudor Wintonians). nder a City charter issued byElizabeth I in 1587, St John’s Hospital was runby the city until 1829, when it became anindependent charity.
The streets of WinchesterThe royal wedding of Mary and Philip in 1554 brought about amassive clean up of the city. Streets were cleaned and ‘lerubbishe’ carted away. Heralds were paid for ‘proclaiming’ theKing and Queen on their entry into the city, the town wasdecorated with flags and the Queen’s trumpeters, footmenand men-at-arms all received gifts of money.
Hotels and InnsTudor Winchester had over 100 inns and alehouses and so waswell able to cater for the guests at Mary and Philip’s wedding(a number that probably doubled the city’s population). Mostof the inns were on the north side of the High Street, near theButter Cross, while most of the alehouses and taverns wereopposite them, including one behind the Butter Cross called‘Hevene’ and next to it one called ‘Helle’.
The Butter Cross At the heart of the city centre, now pedestrianised, thismedieval monument is a traditional meeting place forWintonians (people of Winchester). Originally known as theCity Cross, it was first mentioned in 1427. It was from herethat the mayor would read out public announcements andgive news of royal births, marriages and deaths.
Speed’s Map of Winchester, 1611. Speed’s Map of Winchester was drawn seven years after the death of Elizabeth I in 1603. The city walls and Castle (32)are still standing. Hyde Abbey (2) and St Mary’s Abbey (8) have been levelled and most traces removed. The cathedral (31) has lost its cloisters. The Bishop’s residence of Wolvesey Castle (25) was by then in ruins and is not shown.
The Tudor House on St John’s Street
The Butter Cross
The Round Table in the Great Hall
The ruins of the Bishop’sCastle of Wolvesey
The City Bridge with the City Mill behind
THE WINCHESTER TUDOR TRAIL
Mark Rylance as Thomas Cromwell on set in Winchester during the filming ofWolf Hall. © Company Pictures / Playground Entertainment for BBC. Photograph by Giles Keyte.Tudor Wintonians
The schoolmaster who could dole outpunishmentsIn 1535, Dr John White was appointed headmaster and thenwarden of Winchester College. In Edward VI’s reign he wassent to the Tower of London for his religious beliefs butreleased by Mary I and made Bishop of Lincoln, and later,Bishop of Winchester. He commissioned a painted ceiling incelebration of Mary’s wedding. You can see this ceiling in theWestgate. He carried out Mary’s religious policies and hadThomas Benbridge burned at the stake.
Broiled and burned –another victim of religiousintoleranceThomas Benbridge was aHampshire landowner. When herefused to attend Catholic Masshe was found guilty of heresy andsentenced to be burned to death.He suffered two attempts to burnhim before he died. Bishop JohnWhite, as he was then (seeabove), was partly responsible.
A victim of Henry VIII’schange to ProtestantismElizabeth Shelley was the lastabbess of St Mary’s Abbey. After she surrendered the abbeyto Henry VIII’s men in 1539, thenuns were expelled andElizabeth continued to live therein almost uninhabitableconditions. She is buried in thechapel of Winchester College.
A Catholic with goodintentions Ralf Lamb was a member ofBishop Gardiner’s householdwho attended Mary and Philip’swedding. His portrait showshim dressed in Spanish style,painted by a Spanish artist. He left £400 to St John’sHospital (opposite theGuildhall) to buy houses for thecity’s poor. With this money, StJohn’s purchased the buildingnow known as the Dolphin inthe High Street (there is a stonedolphin carved above thedoor). The Hospital’s Lamb andFlag coat of arms can be seenon the St Thomas Streetfrontage of the Dolphin, nowan off-licence.
The treasurer who did a U-turn William Paulet, 1st Marquess ofWinchester, served as Lord Treasurerof England under three Tudormonarchs. At first he was firmlyagainst Mary’s marriage to Philip ofSpain, and was heard to swear thathe would ‘set upon’ Philip when helanded. He later changed his opinionand entertained the wedding partyat Old Basing on their way toLondon.
The SokeThis word means anadministrative area, in thiscase under the Bishop ratherthan the Queen. In Tudortimes the Soke on the east oftown was one of the richerareas of Winchester.In St John’s Street you’ll find agood example of a Tudormerchant’s house (now privatelyowned). Opposite is the church ofSt John’s in the Soke whose accountsin 1591 show that the sum of 3 shillingswas spent on ‘drinking and the ringing’ ofits bells to celebrate the visit of Elizabeth I.
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Portrait of Ralf Lamb,dated 1554. On view
at the Westgate.
Portrait of WilliamPaulet, Lord Treasurerand 1st Marquess ofWinchester. On viewat the Guildhall.
7. A water mill is used for what? What are the
wheels made of?
6. Why do you think the bottom part of a Tudor building is stone, and thetop is wood and
plaster?
4. Look at the
west front
of Wincheste
r Cathedral?
What is missing
that tells
us something
about the
religious con
flict
started by He
nry VIII
and known as
the
Reformation?
5. Walk around the Collegearea and look for thecheckerboard-effect garden walls, knownas ‘diaper work’. Where doyou think the stonescame from?
Detail of a woodcut fromFoxe’s Book of Martyrs