October 2016 Volume 30, Issue 10 Celebrating our 30th Year! Inside this issue: Next Event 1 President’s Message Officers & Board 2 SEGTOA Save the Date 3 Hubcaps & History Recap 4 Tech Tips: Fire!!! 5 Fire Extinguisher Recalls 6 Fire Extinguishers 7 Tech Tips: Electrical Safety 8 Evolution of the Automobile, Part 4 10 Club Gear 11 SEGTOA Classifieds 12 Resources 13 Tiger Tales Next Events: Cruisin’ the Coast October 1-9 Biloxi, Mississippi Wendy’s Cruise-In October 8 3PM Marietta
SEGTOA had a fun turnout at the Marietta Hubcaps & History Festival on the Marietta Square. Was great to see and meet some of our new members. Ed Bellair had us meet and ride in together. It’s good we got there relatively early since the square filled up and they turned cars away. Craig Dean’s recently updated ’66 GTO (California Post Smog Pump Car) won the award for Best Muscle Car. Congratulations Craig (and Family). The October Official Meeting is Cruisin’ the Coast (Biloxi, MS). Wish I could go! SEGTOA will also be meeting at the Wendy’s 2nd Saturday Cruise-in (Barrett Pkwy & Dallas Hwy) in Marietta. See you there if you’re in town. During the September Meeting, one item we discussed was fire extinguishers. As many of you know, Ben Hatfield’s car is still being rebuilt after his engine fire. So, I wrote a small Blurb (just my thoughts) for this newsletter. I would like to have your thoughts also. Everyone should have your new SEGTOA Roster by now. If you have any corrections, please let Kim Fowler know.
John Link President
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SEGTOA—Save The Dates!
October 2-9 - Cruisin’ the Coast, Biloxi, Mississippi
Saturday October 8 - Wendy’s Cruise-In, 3PM, Marietta
Saturday-Sunday November 5-6 - Tail of the Dragon overnight trip
Saturday December 3 - Christmas Party at Ippolito’s, Marietta
Make plans to attend as many of our 2016 events as possible! Some are
“official,” some are tentative.
Cruisin’ the Coast is an oustanding adventure. Thousands, yes, we said
THOUSANDS of hot rods, classics, street rods, you name it. Details were recently
emailed out. Go to cruisinthecoast.com/event-info/ for more information.
Our offical local event for October is the Wendy’s Cruise-In on Saturday October 8
at 3 PM at the Wendy’s at 3442 Barrett Parkway NW, Marietta, GA 30064. Our club
meeting will begin at 4 PM. This is at the corner of Barrett Pkwy and Dallas highway, and
we usually park in the BB&T Bank parking lot.
The Tail of the Dragon is shaping up to be another grat trip. Ask anyone who has
made the trip before and they’ll tell you what a great time they had! Details were
emailed out recently. Make sure you reply to Ernie ASAP, as we only blocked a limited
number of rooms at the Fontana Village Resort. The plan is to leave Saturday morning,
stop for lunch on the way, drive the Tail, check in and have dinner at the resort, then
return Sunday morning. Those who wish to do so can drive the Tail in the opposite
direction on the way back Sunday.
December is our Christmas Party at Ippolito’s, and it’s always one of our
biggest gatherings. The weather is frequently nice in December, so you never know how
many owners will show up with their cars! There’s great food, great company, and a gift
exchange that borders on the hilarious! Details to follow.
If you have any ideas for events/meetings, be sure to contact our meetings VP, Ernie
Stephens. His contact info is on page 2.
These are your club events! Help make all of them a success!
It was the perfect day for a cruise-in, and the perfect location. Downtown Marietta is a
great setting. There were lots of vendors, local restaurants, and a lot of great cars. Member
Craig Dean, took “Best Muscle Car” for his 1966 GTO, a rare California “post” car with a fresh
engine compartment restoration including the A.I.R. system. In attendance were Jim Paumen,
Paul Sorrels (‘65 GTO), Tom Schmidt (‘65 GTO), Craig Dean (‘66 GTO), Jim Andrews (‘67
GTO), Kim Fowler (‘67 GTO), Ed Bellair (‘68 GTO), Chad Wade (‘68 GTO), and John Link (‘69
GTO). Pretty good representation with 5 years of GTOs!
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Tech Tips: Why It’s Important to have a Functional Fire Extinguisher
The restoration of my 1965 GTO was about 99% complete as of last
December 2015. I drove it from Atlanta to Mobile for the Christmas holidays. Everything seemed fine until I was driving back to
Atlanta December 26th. As I was merging onto I-85 east from I-65 north, I
experienced a loss of power. I believe that the center carburetor malfunctioned in some way. I instinctively pressed the accelerator
harder. This apparently dumped additional fuel into the engine from the front
and rear carburetors. This split second action resulted in a backfire up through the intake manifold resulting in the engine fire. I then experienced
complete loss of power and saw smoke coming from under the hood and
from behind the car. I immediately pulled over on the shoulder of the road and stopped. I then retrieved my Kidde fire extinguisher from the truck,
opened the hood and attempted to discharge the extinguisher. Instead of
discharging, only a 1 or 2 second puff of chemical came out. Needless to say, this had no effect on the rapidly expanding fire. My particular unit was rated
for a 10 - 12 second discharge. I don't think I've ever felt as helpless and
shocked before in my life. Fortunately, another motorist stopped and used his functioning fire extinguisher to put out the fire (which had begun to enter the
cabin). Only a few moments longer and the car would have been completely
destroyed. My Kidde fire extinguisher appears to be one of the 4.5 million defective re-called units. It has been determined that my
unit still contains 80 - 90% of the chemical materials. It is my
belief that if my extinguisher had worked as advertised, my damages would have been in the $10K range rather than the $75K
range. I have an attorney who has been in contact with Kidde
since February of this year. Currently, Kidde has not acknowledged responsibility for the defective extinguisher.
On a side note, Hagerty Classic Car Insurance was a
pleasure to deal with, but my maximum coverage was only around $55K. I would highly recommend Hagerty for your insurance
needs. I am converting to EFI as shown below. I never want to
go through this kind of experience again. It's something that may be worth considering…
Ben Hatfield
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Tech Tips: Updated List of Recalled Kidde Fire Extinguishers
Go to www.kidde.com and click on Safety Notice
October 9-16 is Fire Prevention Week. Let’s all take some time to make sure we have functional,
accessable, and properly secured fire extinguishers in our classic cars. This is especially important in carbureted cars. Review the instructions on your fire extinguisher. You don’t want to
have to figure it out while the fire is burning! And remember: don’t try to fight the fire until everyone is safely away from the vehicle and 911 has been called.
As you just read, Ben Hatfield recently had a $65,000 engine fire, a recalled fire extinguisher, etc. Since then, some of us have been discussing fire extinguishers and what’s best for our classic cars. Some shows (our BOPC) require fire extinguishers, and many members have one in their car for that reason. Some are laying on the floor, some are in the trunk, some are dry chemical, a few are Halotron, and a few are even safely secured. We (SEGTOA members) need to have a way to stop a fire in our very valuable classic cars, if possible. We need to think (beforehand) what our procedure will be in case of a fire in our cars. When the smoke is rising and things are getting hot is no time to not know where to start! I’m not an Engineer nor a Science Major, so this is only my take on this problem. But after discussing this at our last meeting, I think we need to go deeper into this subject: First of all, no worrying about your car or your fire extinguisher until:
1: Everyone is out of the car and a safe distance away; 2: 911 has been called
Then you can think about the plan you made, mentally, to deal with a car fire. Is the extinguisher in a handy spot so you can reach it in an emergency? Do you know how to operate the extinguisher? Can you stop the fire safely?
Those of you who have your extinguisher rolling around on the rear floor or secured with a plastic bracket would probably be better off without the extinguisher. In an accident, things can come loose and fly around. A metal fire extinguisher can be deadly in an accident. What type extinguisher should we be carrying around (properly secured metal bracket/metal quick release strap) in our classic cars? Most car fires are fuel related, with electrical next. So which extinguisher works best on fuel and electrical fires (Class B & C)? What I have read points to CO2 fire extinguishers. Good fire stopping power and no chemical residue. Wonderful! The problem with CO2 extinguishers is their size and weight. Too heavy, too large! Every garage should have a CO2 extinguisher, but we need something smaller in our cars. So what’s the alternative? Halotron extinguishers leave no residue, they’re small, relatively inexpensive, but what is their fire stopping power for a Class B & C fire? The auto size Halotron extinguishers are rated 5BC or 2BC. A similar size dry chemical extinguisher is rated 10BC, double the fire stopping ability in the same size container. Yes, the dry chemical makes a mess, but a fire does even greater damage. My personal conclusion is that the dry chemical (Auto Size) fire extinguisher is best for carrying around, properly secured, in a classic car. Properly secured meaning metal bracket, metal quick release clamp, and behind the driver’s seat where it can be retrieved after everyone is safely away from the car. I am in the process of making brackets to properly secure my fire extinguishers in my GTO and my Riviera. Please look at my setup at our next meeting and consider what would work in your car. There are fire extinguisher brackets sold online (thebracketeer.com) as well.
Seat Full Forward Seat Full Back Painted for Jim Racela’s ‘66 Interior
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Tech Tips: Electrical Safety
Jim Racela
Here is a dramatic example of why you should make sure you have the plastic red cap installed on the hot post of your alternator. (See photos below). A guy was adjusting his idle stop screw and accidentally touched his watch on the hot lead post on top of the alternator. He received a fairly bad burn with a possible
permanent scar of his watch imprinted around his wrist. His metal watch band was burned in half. If he had the plastic red cap covering the alternator hot post, it never would have happened. Regardless , you should
ALWAYS remove rings, watches etc. when working around the engine and battery. This specific info is from the PY Pontiac Forum, but many of us have been preaching this to folks for years.
Here is the original post from the Forum along with some responses:
I've been branded by my 66 GTO!!!
“Don't do this. I was adjusting the idle stop screw on my 66 GTO when I felt a burning on my wrist and smell of burnt flesh. After whipping my left
hand off the engine my watch fell off my wrist. I inadvertently touched the back of the alternator with my watchs' metal band and must have
shorted out something. Burned my wrist and melted the link on the band. Moral of the story: Remove watches before working near the alternator.”
Response 1:
“What [he] said. I actually witnessed the wedding ring fiasco first hand about 25 years ago… a service writer was installing a battery for a
customer and ZAP: melted the ring and burnt a new one around his finger. I was right there, and I can tell you, the guy was in pain… and his
wife later got very, very upset. Jewelry around cars is a huge no-no. Especially rodeo belt buckles!!”
Response 2:
“I have a similar "brand" on my wrist. While reaching behind the dash my
metal watch band shorted the amp meter posts of my 52 Woody. I thought a spider had bitten me so I tried to brush it away but no spider and the pain was increasing. I finally had to rip off the watch and threw it on the ground. Still bear the band
link imprint, nearly fifty years later.”
This last response illustrates why I NEVER use an
Ammeter (amp gauge) as an under dash gauge. The hot lead is the same amperage as the post on the alternator
but there is no protective plastic red cap. Also, it is in the interior of your car under the dash. Not a place where you
want a high amperage circuit. If you have an under dash Ammeter gauge, I would strongly suggest you replace it
with a Voltmeter that uses a normal under dash low amperage wire hooked in to a "switched" circuit that is on only when your ignition is on.
Although cars use a 12 volt system, there is very high amperage in the battery that is used to turn the starter motor. When you buy a battery it is listed as something like 775 CCA or cold cranking amps. Because
of this high amperage, the battery cables are a thick 2 or 4 gauge cable.
The thinner 14 and 16 gauge wires used throughout the car for lights etc. can only carry significantly lower
amperage. That is why the fuses are 10 or 20 amp in the fuse box feeding these wires. The exceptions include the thicker one to the alternator under the red cap and if installed, the lead to an under dash
Ammeter. These leads are not battery cable size but are large enough to carry heavy amps to seriously hurt you and melt metal.
Continued
9
Tech Tips: Electrical Safety, Continued
This is the WARNING from the Auto Meter Ammeter Gauge Installation Instructions:
“Have your maximum alternator output tested. Choice of improper ammeter rating and/or wire size, and any loose
connections can cause dangerous overheating, which could lead to a fire in the vehicle. Ammeter and wire should have a capacity of at least 10 amps more than your vehicle’s maximum alternator output. 10-gauge wire or larger
must be used.”
Wonder why I will not use an Ammeter under my dash?
Here are the pictures of the red plastic alternator cap and red attaching ring that I have written about in a previous
REDLINE article. Often, these are missing. The Pontiac Engineers put it there for a reason. These are very cheap insurance and are available from Ames Performance, NPD and other Pontiac parts places.
Ames: Red Ring PN M250KR Red Retainer $4.50 Red Cap PN N142K $9.00
Both are available in red and black.
Other safety tips:
When working on a car, disconnect the Negative battery cable unless you are running the engine or are working on
electrical issue that needs power.
NOTE: Always remove the NEGATIVE battery cable first and install it last. Never unhook the POSITIVE lead first.
Be aware of any metal you are wearing or using (like wrenches) when working in the engine compartment. Remove
any rings, watches, metal necklaces etc.. A friend of mine dropped a wrench across the battery terminals and it melted! Snap On salesman was not amused and refused to replace the wrench under their lifetime warranty.
We have looked at the current status of the car hobby, including the graying enthusiasts that grew up with the cars you typically see at an event. We saw that many folks in the car hobby want
to recreate the cars of their youth, since these were the ones that attracted their attention
initially. For the sake of convenience, I want to define three groups of guys and gals who pay attention to cars, realizing that to the average (read 'normal') person, their car is just another
appliance in their life. It's hard to dispute this opinion, since the modern automobile is largely an extension of the
den at home. It is smooth, quiet, and comfortable. When all systems are working correctly, starting the engine requires only the twist of a key, or even just the touch of a button. Air conditioning or
heat pours from the vents, and sinking into the comfortable seats is easy. Power has never been greater. Why would anyone want to revert to the cars of previous decades? Most of my friends feel
this way. Their relationship with their car lasts several years, then they turn to a newer model with even more gimmicks than the one they are replacing. It's not very different from getting a new
computer or phone. However, since we are trying to determine where the car hobby is headed, let's look at our
three groups. The first consists of enthusiasts who already have a hobby car, or at least have a genuine interest. We have seen that in many cases, these are often the ones who are ever-
aging. Remember my disclaimer that there are certainly exceptions to any attempts to define
categories. My second group contains members who came along a little bit later. They don't cleanly fit
the profile of our mythical 20-year-old who was drawn to 'car show and cruise night' cars when they were new. Since we saw there is a well-defined gap for popular models, jumping from the early '70s
to cars born in the 21st century, the cars they grew up with just aren't seen in the same numbers. In 2016, most of these people fall in the age group between late 30's to mid 50's.
Then there is our third group, which primarily consists of those identified as Millennials. I have seen a couple of definitions lately. One says they are 18 - 29, while another just states they
are under 35 years of age. I will not wrestle with the fuzzy details, since I feel the results will be consistent as we look further into our second and third groups.
Let's take a closer look at the middle-aged crowd. They have many notable traits that position them for great opportunity, but also must deal with significant disadvantages associated with
their position in life. On the positive side, they as a group have had enough time to establish themselves. They are in their prime earning years, and in many instances, have associated with
relatives or friends who have had a long relationship with the car hobby. They have enjoyed the
benefit of association with cars and car folks, leading to not only interest, but also the ability to actually become part of the collector car activity. Think of these folks as being in, or moving into, the
'middle-aged crazy' crowd! Many of them also already have a special-interest vehicle. But if they have had a dormant interest, it is becoming time for them to make a move.
They were not there in the early 1960's when the Max-Wedge Mopars, the Hawk GT, the split-window 'Vette, the Mustang, or the GTO were introduced. But they have had tremendous
opportunity for exposure to these and subsequent vehicles through shows, books, and magazines. And they have been employed long enough that many can now afford to play.
On the down side, Group Two has had to endure a poor economy for the last seven or eight years. Many of them were severely impacted, losing a job or being forced to cut back. They are also
caught in the classic middle-aged squeeze, with aging parents and other relatives on one side, and kids to support and educate on the other. They also know that buying, insuring, and maintaining a
couple of everyday driver vehicles takes a big slice of their personal economic pie. Then there are the Millennials. Countless words have been written about them. Just as has
happened multiple times before, they are seen as the group who doesn't play by the same
rules. And this is largely true. Folks in this group have been exposed to so much new technology that it is already difficult for them to choose which things to embrace. Furthermore, they have many
unique economic traits that often limit their living income, not to mention discretionary income. In our next installment, we'll look deeper into our Category 2 and 3 groups. There are so
many inputs that didn't even exist for many of us already entrenched in the car hobby, it would take an entire book to discuss them all. I'll try to narrow that down into something meaningful. And as I
said at the beginning, I actively solicit feedback from each of you. Let me know!
GTO Parts & Services Sources Thank You to Jeremiah Riggio, Bob Mohalley, and Jim Racela for tracking down some useful on-line sources for GTO parts and services. Hopefully these will prove useful to you in keeping your GTO looking like a proper time machine!
General Info http://www.oldride.com/library/pontiac_gto.html http://ultimategto.com/cgi-bin/statsexplorer.cgi?year=1968&f1=vinmatrix Carbs http://www.scgg.com/carbs.html http://www.carburetion.com/quadnumber.htm Engines & Heads http://www.spottsperformance.com/engineid.htm Radios http://www.wonderbarman.com/codes.html Wheels http://www.pontiacserver.com/wheels.html#rally2 Pontiac Tripower http://www.pontiactripower.com/catalog/1965-tripower Pontiac Literature
The first link is a listing of copies of original brochures for classic cars. The 2nd is a link to an
example, in this case a PDF file of the available accessories and prices for 1966 Pontiac full car line. (Aside to John Link: Sorry buddy, but there isn't anything listed under the 1969 Buick category!
Tiger Tales is published monthly by the Southeastern GTO Association.
SEGTOA is a chapter of the GTO Association of America (www.gtoaa.org), the premier organization for GTO enthusiasts. Each month GTOAA members receive The Legend magazine, a Golden Quill Award Winning publication. SEGTOA is also associated with Pontiac Oakland Club International (www.poci.org). POCI members receive their monthly magazine Smoke Signals.
SEGTOA is an organization dedicated to the survival of the Pontiac GTO, LeMans, and other classic Pontiacs. SEGTOA is open to anyone who shares our common interest in GTOs and other Pontiacs. We enjoy monthly Chapter meetings, including cruises, car shows, picnics, technical sessions and other fun activities. Our members hail from four different states! Members and their spouses, significant others and children are invited and encouraged to attend each monthly club function.
Club Membership Dues Dues are $20 per year, payable January 1st each year. New members receive a $10 discount on membership their first year. SEGTOA dues requirements are waived for all active military. Membership in GTOAA and/or POCI is required for all members joining after 2007. Members must be in good standing to attend meetings, with the option to bring their membership up to date at any scheduled meeting.
Membership application is available on the SEGTOA website.
Checks should be made payable to Southeastern GTO Association and mailed to Ed Downing, Club Treasurer, 381 St. Marys Lane, Marietta, GA 30064.
SEGTOA Technical Advisory Panel
The members listed below have volunteered to share their special knowledge with other
members. Please feel free to contact these involved members.
