A S I A ’ S L E A D I N G S E L E C T I V E I N T E R N A T I O N A L T E X T I L E E X H I B I T I O N - Y A R N S & F I B R E S , K N I T W E A R & K N I T T E D F A B R I C S
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
wrapSPINEXPOTM
SHANGHAI28 FEBRUARY1-2 MARCH 2017SHANGHAI WORLD EXPO CONVENTION & EXHIBITION CENTRE
Main Trend AreaThis season our main trend area was dedicated to the intepretation of the five main SPINEXPO™ trends through knitted garments and swatches by Steven Oo and Rory Longdon. Steven took inspiration from Explosion and represented this from a variety of perspectives; colour, texture and pattern. We also saw Steven design from Imperfection, taking inspiration from the inner workings of a machine, and Distortion where his inspiration was the magical underwater nymph. Rory took inspiration from our Saturation story with additonal reference being drawn from the book ‘Maske’ by Phyllis Galembo and his second capsule focussed on Distortion, inspired by a series of frozen flowers photographed by Bruce boyd.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
TAKIZEN, ARMONIA, TOPLINE & XINNUO BY RORY LONGDON
WINNING, YARNS & COLORS, UPW, ZIXIN & KYOTOTEXBY RORY LONGDON
WINNING BY STEVEN OO
HOTTA BY STEVEN OO & BALILABHOTTA BY STEVEN OO & BALILAB
RORY LONGDON
SpinactiveThis season’s SPINACTIVE collection also displayed in the main trend area was dedicated to product creation and how these processes have evolved through time. We focussed on hand-made, machine-assisted and technologically driven approaches, exploring how each has inspired another. The processes are revealed to the visual senses through pleasing aesthetics but also through intellectual and conscious stimulation. We celebrate ‘The Beauty of Creation’ by showcasing garments that adapt and shine in an era defined by change and uncertainty. The presentation was a collaborative partnership by Studio EvaxCarola with the craftmanship of BaliLab and the innovative seamless, circular knitting technology from Santoni Shanghai.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
Spinexplore For Spring/ Summer 2018 SPINEXPO™ found creative direction in the concept ‘Expect the Unexpected’, leading the SPINEXPLORE trend forum to be divided into five main themes: Saturation, Imperfection, Distortion, Pigmentation and Explosion. Inspired by intergrating and reflecting the changes and uncertainties that exsist in our societies, economic structures, polictial systems and impending enviromental crises: issues and challenges that continue to shake us and shape us all. The play on stitches and construction techniques were created by a team of international designers and spinners in collboration with SPINEXPO™
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
I-SHEEN BY BECKY BAKER
M.OH.K
CASSIE HENDERSON
ESQUEL & TIANTIANRUN BY ARAN BAIK
Harvest GoldsContinuing with the concept of explaining the meaning of colours, SPINEXPO™ focussed on an assembly of tones based around Harvest Gold’s. The global view and idea behind this family of colours, containing fibres filaments and yarns, was to emphasize the positive energy and constructive meaning found in this spectrum of colours.Visitors were able to discover how environmental and sustainable products can be fashionable, whilst also discovering new research and development techniques applied specifically to a new generation of yarns and structures. Nottingham Trent University and Winchester School of Art worked in collaboration with inspiration from SPINEXPO™ and alongside our SPINEXPO™ team of international designers, to create this sustainable presentation.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
WSA
NTU BY ROSA HUTCHESSON
XAVIER BRISOUX IN COLLABORATION WITH JINLONG
NTU BY EMMA KIRBY
BOBBLEBALILAB
HandknittingSpring / Summer 18 continues to see growth in handknitting yarns. As part of the SPINEXPLORE presentation a specialised handknitting corner was created to showcase some of the key spinners yarns for this sector. Both fine gauge delicate yarns through to arm knitting yarns were on offer. Tiantianrun and I-Sheen collborated with Becky Baker, Aran Baik and Katie Hanlan on our hanknitting and installation projects.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
DEERKINGHUBO, FORTUNE, BEST SHAN & HOTTA BY BECKY BAKER
BEST SHAN, HOTTA & SHILEAD BY KATIE HANLAN
WINNING, BEST SHAN & HOTTA BY KATIE HANLAN
KATIE HANLAN
HUBO, FORTUNE, BEST SHAN & HOTTA BY BECKY BAKER
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
17-1502 TCXCLOUDBURST
19-3810 TCXECLIPSE
19-1518 TCXPUCE
19-4125 TCXMAJOLICA BLUE
19-1525 TCXPORT
17-1113 TCXCORIANDER
19-2118 TCXWINETASTING
14-0951 TCXGOLDEN ROD
18-3930 TCXBLEACHED DENIM
19-2431 TCXBOYSENBERRY
16-1516 TCXCAMEO BROWN
18-0322 TCXCYPRESS
19-1320 TCXSABLE
16-5807 TCXLILY PAD
14-1036 TCXOCHRE
15-0000 TCXDOVE
19-4220 TCXDARK SLATE
19-1557 TCXCHILI PEPPER
17-5117 TCXGREEN BLUE SLATE
18-5115 TCXNORTH SEA
13-1107 TCXWHISPER PINK
18-0601 TCXCHARCOAL GRAY
18-1547 TCXBOSSA NOVA
14-4508 TCXSTRATOSPHERE
18-5841 TCXPEPPER GREEN
16-1324 TCXLARK
18-1405 TCXFLINT
18-1154 TCXGLAZED GINGER
18-4726 TCXBISCAY BAY
19-1663 TCXRIBBON RED
17-4405 TCXMONUMENT
18-0724 TCXGOTHIC OLIVE
17-1340 TCXADOBE
17-4724 TCXPAGODA BLUE
19-1763 TCXFORMULA ONE
16-1323 TCXMACAROON
19-1116 TCXCARAFE
19-1020 TCXDARK EARTH
14-5707 TCXAQUA FOAM
18-4244 TCXDIRECTOIRE BLUE
BLANC
17-1430 TCXPECAN BROWN
16-1328 TCXSANDSTONE
16-0235 TCXKIWI
18-0835 TCXDRIED TOBACCO
Saturated Sheers | Saturation | A blurred mix & match of everything We saw sophisticated fabrics stemming from lustrous & translucent yarns. Lightweight sheers are manipulated by stitch, pleating and gathering to create soft, modern and luxurious pieces perfect for Spring/ Summer 18.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
EASTAR
STUDIO EVA X CAROLA - BALILAB
FULIANTOPLINEESQUEL BY ARAN BAIK TAKIZEN
ZHONGXIN
SHILEAD
E. MIROGLIO
Saturated Fluidity | Saturation | A blurred mix & match of everythingSilky, crisp and stretch blends of rayon’s take drape & structure to a new level of sophistication advancing the spinners best sellers with a more directional fashion and performance crossover product. In a search for fashion yet functional knitwear, rayon’s become even more important this Spring/ Summer 18.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
Y&C
TAKIZEN
JINLONG
NUOYI
NEW CHENGYU
NEW CHENGYU
HUALIAN BY HUBO
TOPLINE
NUOYI
Illusion | Saturation | A blurred mix & match of everythingIllusion sees yarns that have warming, cooling or attracting properties. Fabrics form tactile sensations and colours are manipulated to create beautiful illusionary effects. Illusion incorporates textile stimuli that trick our senses of touch, hearing and sight; helping the user to experience escapism. Yarns from Hi-Tech Polyace, Dezhou Huayuan & Biella yarn have been manipulated within this story.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
DEZHOU HUAYUAN
ZIXINSHI-KWAN
STUDIO EVA x CAROLA
STUDIO EVA x CAROLA
ESQUEL DEZHOU HUAYUAN | SHI-KWAN | GALAXY
SHI-KWAN
SHI-KWAN
YARNS & COLORS
I-SHEEN, AA GLOBAL & BALILAB Diverse Beauty | Imperfection | A changing stateBeauty is found in indivdual diffrence and perception allows us to consider how something that may be deemed imperfect can sometimes be more beautiful than perfection. This Spring/ Summer we find subtle & contrasting space dyes, subtle melanges, printed yarns and broken space dye stripes that form imperfect, unique & dimensional patterns within the knit.Spinners include: Hubo, Yarns & Colors, Zhonxin, Dongyan, AA Global & Winning.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
HUBO
ZHONGXIN
HUBO
JINLONG
DONGYAN
ZHONGXIN
WINNING TEXTILE
SHI-KWAN, GUCHUA, BIELLA YARN BY CASSIE HENDERSON
Glimmers of Imperfection | Imperfection | A changing stateGlimmers of imperfection showcase beauty and its variations within metallics for Spring/ Summer 18. Metallics appear in both fine and novelty yarn types, blending with silk, rayon, merinos, through to stand-alone corded and tinsel metallics.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
YIWAGOE & GALAXY BY JINLONG
SHI-KWAN BY JINLONG
WSADAEKYUNG SHI-KWAN
GALAXY
BEST LEADER BY RORY LONGDON
XINFANG
Authenticity | Imperfection | A changing state Yarns from Zixin, Xinnuo & Biella Yarn focus on silk touches and soft handles. Silk plays a strong role this season and adds luxury to activewear garments. Yarns also take focus around health and well-being; yarns like soya bean, milk fiber, bamboo and silver fibres, all being presented by Longrun, whilst Hotta create crisp handled yarns that help create form alongside Haufu cottons.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
HUAFU
HUAFU
STUDIO EVA x CAROLA & BALILABHOTTA
GALAXY
EASTAR & BALILABYIWAGOE, CHANGZHOU MEIYUAN & BALILAB
STUDIO EVA x CAROLA & BALILAB
LONGRUN & ZIXIN
Lux Côtelé - Velour’s & Chenille’s | Distortion | Nothing is perfect Modern and luxurious velour’s & chenille’s appear with ultra fine and silky smooth handles this season. These new generation yarns are perfect for creating soft draped silhouettes with delicate touches, morphing knitwear into woven-look fabrications, or taking it into athleisure and creating modern luxurious sportswear pieces that recall the 90’s.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
SHILEAD
SHILEADSHILEAD
SHILEAD
YARNS & COLORS
YARNS & COLORS
BEST LEADER
BEST LEADER
Distorted Textures | Distortion | Nothing is perfect Distorted textures are seen in the form of micro bouclé’s, crimped effects & contrasting colour pigtail yarns that add dimension and distortion at the same time. Uneven textures created by thick & thin bouclé’s in addition to uneven striped macro bouclé are also seen adding further distortion and creativity to the final fabrics.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
GUOMAO
AA GLOBAL
ARMONIA-REGAL BEST SHAN
CHANGSHENG
ORIENT HONDA
BEST SHAN
I-SHEEN BY KATIE HANLAN
Distorted Sculptural Ribbons | Distortion | Nothing is perfectTransformation of traditional fabrics into crisp formations that look modern yet timeless. Textured tapes add a delicate and soft nature, whilst new lily tape yarns add contrast and distortion to their knitted structures
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
REGAL
HF BY SUDWOLLE
HOTTA, BEST SHANYUSHENG GUMAO
XINNUO
TOPLINE, BEST SHAN
SHILEAD
Pigmented Cottons | Pigmentation | Shadow patternsCotton is versatile, high performing and naturally comfortable. With consumer demands requiring more functionality in each garment, cotton is a perfect solution. Cotton is a soft, absorbent and breathable natural fibre, keeping the body cool in summer and warm in winter. We have seen an increase in spinners preferring BCI Cottons, Organic and Australian cotton for sustainability, or finer mako cotton in mercerized tapes.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
ESQUEL
ZHONGXIN
BROSHUAFU ZHONGXIN
ZHONGXIN
ESQUEL
HUAFU
Pigmented Linens | Pigmentation | Shadow patternsAuthentic and Natural linens speak of traditions, repurposed craft, sustainability & heritage. Linens are a must this season, very light and sometimes almost transparent. Natural sandstone tones sit alongside warming shades of naturally dyed ochre’s, gingers, chili pepper and sable tones; colours are born into summer linens.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
HUBO, UPW, YARNS & COLORS BY LAURA MCPHERSON
YIWAGOE
TOPLINEXINSHAMEIYUAN XINSHA
FORTUNE
DAEKYUNG
XINSHA
STUDIO EVA x CAROLA
Augmented | Pigmentation | Shadow patterns Man x Machine x Natural yarns x Synthetic yarns. As Augmented garments are created to enhance the wearer’s ability to perform, we see advanced knitting techniques improve aerodynamics and buoyancy, whilst support detailing, ventilation and compression give the wearer a ‘super human’ feeling. Raw materials that fit into this concept are delivered from Huayuan; combining wools and Aramide yarns that combine natural performance abilities of merino with performance materials from Dezhou. Carbon fibre and Nylon 6.6 are also seen emerging more in the market. The drive for engineered yarns that help to create more functional products is increasing every season with consumers wanting more from their garments. Yarns from: Daekyung Yanji Textiles, Dezhou Huayuan Sawada, Yarns & Colors, & Biella yarn all feature in this category.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
YARNS & COLORS
UPW & SAWADA KNITTED BY NUOYI
KNITTTED BY SANTONI SHANGHAI
DAEKYUNG YANJI TEXTILES, DEZHOU HUAYUAN ECO & BIELLA YARN
YARNS & COLORS, SAWADA KNITTED BY NUOYI
XINSHA KNITTED BY JINLONG
DAEKYUNG YANJI TEXTILES, DEZHOU HUAYUAN ECO & BIELLA YARN
BIELLA YARN
Silk Explosion | Explosion | Experimental play on colours In the push for ‘better’ product to market we see silks making a come back this SS18. Both elegant fine gauge, cool as well as crisp handle silks are seen along side mid-gauge silk metallic combinations. A demand for quality yarns sees the spinners offering, silk/ rayon’s from Topline, merino/ silks from Xinao, silk noil blended with lurex from HUBO, silk, cotton and linens from Yarns & Colors and beautiful clean and sharp silks from Zhongding.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
ZHONGDING
TOPLINE
HUBO
BALILAB X STEVEN OO
TOPLINE NATASHA HOLDGATE
XINAO
XINAO
UPW
Fractal Merinos | Explosion | Experimental play on colours Superfine & extrafine merinos continue into Spring/ Summer with Cotton and silks blended for lightweight and cooler handles. Functional merinos continue to be strong with the demand for function, comfort and quality remaining key this season. Colours are inspirational, experimental and adventurous.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
M.OH.K
SHILEAD, ZHONGYIN, REGAL BY NATASHA HOLDGATE
BIELLA YARN BY M.OH.KNUOYI XINAO
XINAO
XINAO
STEVEN OO & BALILAB
Explosive Metallics | Explosion | Experimental play on coloursExplosive metallics appear in mid to heavy gauge yarns. Iridescent films are added to lily yarns, whilst coppers and warm tone metallics bring cotton, merinos, viscose & paper yarns to life. Rich and opulent colours are seen here.
TMSPINEXPO WRAP S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 8
STUDIO EVA x CAROLA & BALILAB
ZHONGYIN
SHILEADMEADOWBROOK UPW
SHILEAD
WINNING
TAKIZEN/ KYOTOTEX