TRAINING
EXOSSINE™: EXO-P™
DETOXIFYING-ANTI-POLLUTION
• Introduction on protection, claims & consumers
• Exo-P: Protection
– In vitro assay (heavy metal chelation & UV protection)
– Ex vivo assay (pollution protection)
– Anti-pollution consumer test
• Toxicological studies
• Applications
• Conclusion
Exossine Technical Agenda
What are we protecting our skin from?
Before
• UV
• Aging process
• Skin sensitivity & intolerance
Now
• Elements (extreme weather, pollution, heavy metals)
• Our own physiological changes (hormones)
• Man-made factor (electromagnetic waves, cigarette)
We protect ourselves from things that make us look bad & unhealthy
Effect of pollution on skin
Increases the oxidation of sebum, pimple formation = acne
Rashes, allergies & skin sensibility
Interferes with the skin ability to regulate moisture = dehydration
Takes out the oxygen from the skin cells = dull & saggy skin
Increases free radicals and the effect of UV radiation
Complexion becomes grayish
Premature aging!
Decrease collagen & elastin production = rough skin & fine lines
Skin cells do not have proper defenses against man-made pollution
Market Info
• Since January 2008: 4624 products were launched with the «Protect against harsh elements, pollution, smoke, environmental aggressors, urban damage claim»
• Important evolution since 2008.
Evolution since 2008 Product segmentation
+40%
40%
Global Protection Market
Consumer Info • Who buys «Protective products» and why?
- Consumers who have sensitive skin and reactive skin. Why? To reduces or minimize unwanted side effect of sensitive & reactive skin
(redness, irritation, etc).
- Consumers who live in big polluted cities and who desire a maximum skin protection from pollution, sun and other elements.
Why? To minimize as much as possible skin damage and reduce dull skin that come with skin submitted to pollution.
- Consumers who have a preventive approach to skin aging and photo-protection (suncare).
Why? By reinforcing skin defenses it will help fight the skin aging process and maintain as long as possible a youthfull appearance.
Global Protection Market
Global Protection Application
Clarins Expertise 3P Screen Mist
Anti-Electromagnetic Waves & Urban Pollution
Clinique Comfort On Call Allergy Tested Relief Cream protects skin against wind and cold; said to prevent pollen allergies
DoshaCare Environmental Shield
helps to neutralize the effects of smoke, smog and surface radicals
SkinMedica TNS Ultimate Daily Moisturizer
fight the visible signs of environmental damage resulting from UV light, pollutants,
and harmful chemicals
Many Different Applications
• Moisturizing care & radiant skin care • Protective care • Sensitive skin • Daily care • Sun care • Hair care
What we are offering: Exo-P
Exotic expolysaccharide and sustainable active that provides protection against toxic chemicals, UV, heavy metals, cigarette
smoke, fuel exhaust and urban pollution!
Reality…
• Human activities
• Urban pollution
• Sun exposure
• Cigarette smoke
Affect everybody!!!
Cause loss of skin hydration, protection, dull skin complexion, skin sensitivity…
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics Innovations found the solution in a hidden paradise of French Polynesia…
French Polynesia a hidden beauty beyond the ordinary…
French Polynesia are volcanic islands and atolls located in
the eastern South Pacific
Moorea Island called the «Magical Island» is an atoll
Atoll is an island of coral that encircles a lagoon
Volcano
Corals that grow on the flanks of the volcano
Exotic ExoPolySaccharides
The salty water of Moorea lagoon are the site of Kopara Kopara are unique ecosystem constituted of microorganisms only To protect themselves from UV, pH & salinity variations, Kopara microorganisms produce exopolysaccharides (EPS) as protective shield What is an exopolysaccharide vs polysaccharides?!?
Polysaccharides: Polymers that are composed of repeated sugar.
Example of polysaccharide: cellulose, chitine, cell membrane constituants of yeast Exopolysaccharides: Polymers that are composed of sugar and are secreted by a microorganism into the surrounding environment.
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics has isolated mircoorganisms producing EPS:
Vibrio alginolyticus subspecies 245 (Exo-T)
Alteromonas macleodi subspecies 203 (Exo-H)
Alteromonas macleodi subspecies 229 (Exo-P)
Exclusive & Patented!
Sustainable ExoPolySaccharides
EPS are obtained through a proprietary green fermentation process
This process allows us to reproduce the Kopara ecosystem
without damaging the natural resources & disrupting the
biodiversity
EPS are produced in French Polynesia
to help maintain the local economy
The Exossine System: Protection - Hydration - Texture
Exo-P™ Product composition
Exo-P Protection
1000 kDa
Produced by Alteromonas macleodi subsp 229
Ramified polysaccharide composed: -57% neutral sugars (glucose, galactose, mannose)
-25% uronic acid (glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid)
-8% sulphates
Exo-P is formulated in butylene glycol and water without preservative
EPS are rich in essential minerals like: sodium, potassium, calcium & magnesium
Sodium: Detoxification & maintenance water balance Potassium: Balances healthy skin water balance
Calcium: Protects skin tissues, induces cell differentiation for a better skin barrier function Magnesium: Stimulates cell regeneration, energy production and is an anti-stress agent
- Confidential -
Exo-P the Natural Protector
In vitro & Ex vivo tests
Heavy metals chelation process
Chelating agent
Heavy Metal
Heavy metal chelation = Heavy metal no longer toxic & cannot penetrate the skin
Chelation:
The use of chelating agents to detoxify dangerous metal by converting them to a chemically inert form that can be eliminated
Effect on heavy metals chelation
Test Protocol: • Exo-P was incubated with heavy metals Cadmium (Cd) or Lead (Pb) for 3hrs
• Centrifugation
• Concentration in Cd and Pd in supernatant by flame atomic absorption spectrometry (FAAS)
Cadmium is known to cause DNA damages and has been associated with alopecia (hair loss) and serious skin rash Lead increases oxidative stress and skin lipid peroxidation
Exo-P protects against toxic chemicals and thus limits skin damages caused by pollution
Exo-P has the ability of chelating cadmium and lead
Effect of Exo-P on heavy metals chelation
Cadmium
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
180
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
[Cd] eq (mg/L)
q C
d a
bso
rbé
(mg/
g d
'EP
S)
Lead
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
0 100 200 300 400 500 600
[Pb]eq (mg/l)
q P
b r
eten
u (
mg/
g d
'EP
S)
free-radicals production (ROS)
DNA alterations
Lipid peroxidation Collagen fibers degradation
Proteins oxidation
Skin Aging
UV Stresses (internal / external)
Pollution
Free Radical Cascade
Test Protocol:
• Human keratinocytes incubated with Exo-P or positive control (BHA) for 24hrs
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) is a well-known antioxidant added to foods to preserve
fats
• Cells were irradiated with UVB
• Lipid peroxidation is identified with a specific fluorescence probe and quantified by
cytometry
Effect on UV-induced lipid peroxidation
Exo-P protects and prevents UV-induced skin damage to limit premature aging caused by sun exposure
Exo-P reduces lipid peroxidation in a dose-
dependant manner
Effect on UV-induced lipid peroxidation
Test Protocol:
• Lotion containing 3% Exo-P was applied on skin explants surface for 4 days
• On day 4 addition of filter paper containing a mixture of heavy metals & hydrocarbons (found in fuel exhaust & cigarette smoke) on skin explants surface
• On day 5 removal of filter paper and MDA quantification & histological observations Malondialdehyde (MDA) = end product of lipid peroxidation used as biomarker of oxidation in
damaged skin
Anti-pollution effect on skin explants
Aluminium (Al)
Arsenic (As)
Cadnium (Cd)
Chromium (Cr)
Mercury (Hg)
Nickel (Ni)
Lead (Pb)
Phosphorus (P)
Tellurium (Te)
20 mg/L 20 mg/L 2 mg/L 20 mg/L 20 mg/L 5 mg/L 20
mg/L 10 mg/L 20 mg/L
Hydrocarbons content: benzene, toluene, xylene, anthracene, naphtol
Exo-P protects against urban pollution and thus can be used to reduce skin sensitivity and allergic reactions
caused by pollution
Exo-P reduces the production of MDA by 44%
under urban pollution conditions
Anti-pollution effect on skin explants
Control Skin + pollutant
Exo-P protects and reduces pollution damage on skin
Exo-P prevents the formation of pycnotic nuclei and improves dermal-epidermal cohesion
Dermal-epidermal separation = Lack of cohesion
Pycnotic nuclei = Severe cell damage which lead to cell
death
Skin + Pollutant + Exo-P™
SC
Epidermis
DEJ
Dermis
Anti-pollution effect on skin explants
No pycnotic nuclei
Reduced collagen network = Desease skin support
Normal collagen network
Exo-P the Natural Protector
Consumer test
Anti-pollution consumer test
Test Protocol:
• 57 consumers (age: 30 to 50) living in a big city & 50% are smokers (29 out of 57)
• Application of a cream with 2% Exo-P in the morning & at night for a period of 7 days
Consumers agree that Exo-P makes their skin more resistant to aggressions and improves dull skin for a healthy skin complexion
Toxicological Studies
• Cytotoxicity (maximal dose: 30%)
• HET CAM (maximal dose: 30%)
• AMES Test (maximal dose: 30%)
• Acute skin tolerance (single patch test) (maximal dose: 30%)
• HRIPT (irritation and sensitization) (maximal dose: 30%)
• Photosensitization (maximal dose: 30%)
Excellent Safety Profile
Products Efficacy Summary
In vitro Ex vivo Clinical
Exo-P Protection
-Heavy metals chelation
-Protection against UV-induced lipids peroxidation
-Protection against pollutants (cigarette smoke & fuel exhaust)
Anti-pollution consumer test
-Improves skin dullness, resistance to aggressions & climatic changes for a luminous & healthy skin
Exo-H Hydration
-Stimulation of hyaluronic acid secretion
-Induction of total lipid synthesis
-Protection against delipidation
-Induction of filaggrin expression (fast action! 3hrs)
Combined test:
-Induce skin hydration
-Improve skin texture
Exo-T Texture
-Induction of desquamation markers with higher efficacy than retinoic acid
-Induction of skin regeneration
-Protection against delipidation
-Induction of transglutaminase expression
Complete protection & moisturizing and restructuring effect leading to a healthy, smooth & radiant skin complexion
New results coming soon!
Exo-PTM Protects against free radicals, toxic chemicals, heavy metals and urban pollution
Exo-HTM
Boosts natural
hydrating functions by stimulating hyaluronic acid, fillagrin and lipids
Exo-TTM
Stimulates desquamation and
differentiation markers and induction of TGK
expression for maximal skin renewal
Products Efficacy Summary
Exossine™ Applications
Recommended dosage: 1-3%
•Moisturizing care •Detox skin care •Anti-stress care •Protective care •Daily care •Anti-aging care •Skin repair treatment •Sun care •Body care •Cosmeceutical care •Spa care •Men care •Hair care •Urban care
Anti-Pollution Daily Cream
2% Exo-P: pollution protection
1% Exo-H: moisturizing effect
0.5% Homeo-Shield: shielding effect
Super Detoxifying serum 2% Exo-P: anti-pollution effect
1% Aldavine: anti-inflammatory
0.01% EUK-134: neutralizes free radical
Purifying Anti-Pollution mask
1% Exo-P: detox & improves dullness
1% Exo-T: refines skin texture
1% CW: calms the skin
Potential Applications:
Super sensitive skin cream
2% Exo-P: protects against urban pollution
0.3% Neutrazen: reduces sensitivity threshold
0.5% Abyssine: calms the skin
Formulation Tips
Exo-P is an aqueous gel easy to work and formulate with Exo-P can be added a room temperature or in the cooling phase at the end of the formulating process Exo-P can easily be incorporated in various aqueous formulas (emulsion O/W, lotion, foaming base, etc...) Exo-P will add a soft, light and creamy touch to the formula. No known incompatibilities pH: 4 - 8
Features Benefits
Actives produced by microorganisms using a green fermentation process
Offer Sustainable & Eco-friendly actives
Supply Renewable source of ingredients
Exotic exopolysaccharides rich
in minerals
Give the opportunity to explore new marketing avenues
Multi-functional (protection & improve formulating properties)
Protective effect of Exo-P Provides complete protection against urban pollution and UV
Positive consumer perception after only 7 days
Makes the skin more resistant to agressions and improves dull skin for healthy & luminous skin
Exossine™ Features & Benefits
Company / Product
Origin Application In vitro / Ex vivo Clinical %
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics /
Exossine™
Exo-P
Exopolysaccharide obtained by Kopara microorganisms from French Polynesia
Skin protection
Anti-pollution
Skin radiance
Cadmiun & lead chelation
0.1%: ↑ protection against UV
3%: ↑ protection against fuel exhaust & cigarette smoke (ex vivo)
2% Exo-P: ↑ skin protection & resistance = luminous, healthier & radiant look (7 days)
1-3%
Alpaflor/
Nectapure
Mix of plant extracts Treatment against city stress
Anti-oxidant 5%: ↑ moisturization (corneometry)
3-5%
L. Serobiologique /
Purisoft
Seed from Indian tree Anti-pollution Protection from cadmium & mercury
3% : protects from cigarette smoke
Skin cleansing: +62% vs placebo
1-3%
L. Serobiologique /
Egyptyl
Wheat seed extract
Protection from urban pollution
0.1 - 0.3 - 1%: ↑ cell growth
Protects against exhaust gas
1-3%
Sederma / Venuceane
Biotech product obtained from bacterial fermentation
(enzymes cocktail)
Anti-aging
Anti-oxidant
3%: ↓ peroxidation & protection from lipid peroxidation
3%: protect DNA from UVA
3% ↑ protection from UVA
3% ↓ peroxidation
3% ↓ TEWL & ↑ hydration (56d)
5% ↑ hydration & texture (6mths)
3%
Solabia /
Glycofilm
Polysaccharide obtained by bacterial fermentation
Second skin (protection)
5%: ↑ cytoprotection from metal (cadmium)
1%, 3% & 5%: protection from carbon particles
3% & 5%: boost SPF
3-5%
Sederma /
Osmopur
ivy, sunflower and rice bran on an acrylic polymer & polyol base
Protects from pollution
5%: ↓ citotoxicity to cigarette smoke
3%: ↑ protection against exhaust
fumes & heavy metals (cadmium)
Seppic / Manoliva Olive extract +manganes gluconate
Anti-pollution 6ppm: ↑ protection from cigarette smoke & peroxidation (↑ than vit C)
0.024%: anti-oxidant
3%
The Competition Origin
Fast action
Dosage
Exo-P: Retail: 209$/kg Retail: 141€/kg (2.82 €/kg) Distributor: 156$/kg Distributor: 105€/kg
What you get:
New & exotic polysaccharides
Innovative and patented product
Well defined active obtained through green process (fermentation)
Low recommended dosage range: 1 to 3%
Fast results (after 7 days)
Exossine™ Pricing
Lanacityn PF : 138$/kg - 95€/kg Distributor price Exo-H: 202$/kg - 134€/kg Exo-T: 236$/kg - 157 €/kg
Exo-P™ is an innovative
active providing complete protection
Exo-P™ Summary
Innovative & unique actives from exotic ecosystem
(we do not harm the local environment)
Provides complete protection
Complementary action with clinically proven efficacy to
induce long-term hydration & improve skin texture for a
smooth skin and radiant complexion!