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TRAVEL CANARY WHARF | 83 I f you’re yearning for a soul-searching moment, head to South Tyrol, a little- known – but beautifully peaceful – enclave of northern Italy. With its heavenly setting – lush vineyards, verdant valleys dotted with romantic castles, and surrounding snow-capped peaks – it’s a world apart from the hubbub of urban life and an idyllically bucolic spot for those wanting some me-time. Except for one problem: before you can turn your mind to “who am I?” you may first want to find the answer to “where am I?” Perched just short of the Austrian border, between Verona and Innsbruck, South Tyrol is a mixed-up kind of place and, like many border towns across the world, boasts an intriguing fusion of culture, language and identity. While it lies geographically in Italy, it has a distinct Teutonic air about it yet it has actually been a proudly autonomous region since 1948. Most locals speak both German and Italian – signposts are in both languages – with a stalwart minority still insisting on the mountain dialect Ladin. Food is a true indicator of the melting-pot: fancy spaghetti? Not a problem, but you’ll also find apple strudel on the same menu. You’ll spot pretty, wooden chalets with crimson blooms in window-boxes, straight out of Heidi, and you’ll also stumble across ultra- modern design hotels – all glass and metal – by way of Milan. One of these is San Luis, the latest opening on the scene, tucked away in an untouched forest on the Avelengo plateau. It’s the second property owned by the Meister family (the first is Hotel Irma, found in the nearby quaint town of Merano). Described as a private retreat offering ‘primordial encounters with nature’, it’s another place for the modern pursuit that is finding yourself again. Designed by local architect Hugo Demetz, there are 22 chalets and 16 tree-houses on stilts, scattered around a pristine man-made lake. The hotel’s central clubhouse, housing the spa, inside-
