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This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

Travel Info

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This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

The Agony and theEcstasy

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This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

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This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

Recommended Linkswww.ricksteves.comwww.vayama.comwww.skyscanner.comwww.bestfares.comwww.romaturismo.itwww.vrbo.com

This page is designed to pick up where travel books leave off. If you don’t have a travel book yet, head to Barnes and Nobles or Borders and purchase Rick Steves’ Italy book (or click on the banner to the right). He has the best places to stay, best values available, and prioritizes what you should do and see.

Air FaresFor help and information with air fares, click here. The two bestwebsites, consistently, for finding the lowest fares for air travel toand from Europe are vayama.com and skyscanner.com.

Last Minute InfoThe subway station at the Termini train station in Rome is undergoing a major renovation. Allow extra time when arriving or departing Termini on the Metro (subway). Everything is still extremely well-marked, but it will take a few extra minutes to navigate the maze. Also know that some subway stations/stops may be closed from time to time while the renovation is in progress.

Termini also just moved the Leonardo Express (the express train between Fiumincino Airport and Termini) from Track 25 to Track 26 & 27.

AccommodationsApartmentIn Rome I can possibly help out with a nice, central, and extremely convenient place to stay (sleeps 4). It’s a fully furnished 2-bedroom apartment with a complete kitchen, on the first floor, and is located right next to a subway stop. It doesn’t get much more convenient than that. If it's available, it will cost €60 per night for two people (€70 if more than two). If you know the exact dates you'll be in Rome, send them to me and I'll check the availability (the owner doesn’t speak English).

For other places to stay, check out vrbo.com (vacation rentals by owner). Here you'll find incredibly nice apartments in fantastic locations for the price of a hotel room. Otherwise, refer to your Rick Steves book.

HotelFor a hotel, I recommend Hotel Oceania. It’s moderately priced (Single–€125, Double–€158). There are only 19 tastefully decorated rooms (including a family suite). It is spacious. It has A/C and internet. It has a large roof terrace. It is conveniently located near the Republicca metro stop. Plus, Stefano adds several nice additional touches.

Sleeping Cheaply in RomeThere are 3 hostels near the Termini train station that are nice, clean, conveniently located, and inexpensive. Check out The Beehive (http://the-beehive.com/), Yellow Hostel (http://the-yellow.com/), and Fawlty Towers Hostel (http://www.fawltytowers.org/). I haven't stayed at any of them, but several friends have and they say they are nice.

AugustTwo things about August in Rome:

If you are coming to Rome in August, you may be in for a bit of a shock. With most of the shops having closed doors with signs that read chiuso per ferie (closed for holiday), the city resembles a ghost town as the majority of Roman citizens leave the city in droves for summer vacation. You may not notice too much in the tourist areas, but in the rest of the city, you may have trouble finding any stores that are open.

August gets beastly hot in Rome, and air conditioners are NOT a given (most residences do not have AC). If this is important to you, ask before you arrive to make sure your reserved room has AC.

Art LoversIf you’d like a truly rewarding trip to Italy, read The Agony and the Ecstasy before you come. It is a biographical novel about Michelangelo. If you’re a creative type, I highly, highly, highly recommend it. After reading it, everything you see and do in Italy will sizzle with life––even more so than it already does (which doesn’t seem possible).

Okay, okay, okay––so you’re not a book reader. Yes, there is a movie version.

(See related post “A Morning with David”)

Directions

Getting into Rome from Fiumincio AirportThe fastest and cheapest way into the city from the airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the Termini train station, and costs only €14 each way (children under 12 are free). A car and taxi will take you 2 hours to get into the city, especially during rush hour in the morning when most trans-atlantic flights arrive.

To get to the train, once you have your bags and leave the customs area, walk through the doors and enter the arrival hall where all the families are waiting:

• Turn left. You'll face a café. Before the café, look left again and you'll see escalators. Go up.

• At the top, double-back around and take the other set of escalators up also.

• Once on the second floor, hang a right which is a walkway/breezeway over the street.

• Once across, hang a right and walk down this hallway.

• At the next intersection (you’ll see flight info boards), hang a left...this will lead you straight to the trains.

• You can buy a ticket at the ticket counter or use a self-service kiosk with a credit card.

• The train to Termini is typically of track 2. Stamp your ticket in the yellow machines. You'll need to be on the right side of the train to enter.

• The train will let the arriving passengers off the left side of the train before opening the doors on the right side to let you in.

The train leaving the airport to Termini leaves every :05 and :35 after the hour.

Getting to Fiumincino Airport from RomeThe fastest and cheapest way to Fiumincino airport is by train, the Leonardo Express. It runs every 30 minutes, takes only 30 minutes to get to the airport, and costs only €14 each way.

To get to the airport from the Termini train station:

• If arriving at Termini by subway, follow the signs to "ai treni" (all trains).

• After exiting the turnstiles, hang a left and go up the short flight of stairs. A newsstand will be to the right at the top of the stairs. You can buy your train ticket here. Have €14 in your hand and simply say "Fiuminicino."

• With your ticket in hand, don't go upstairs to the train station...walk straight ahead, staying to the right, past the mallish-looking shops.

• Enter the long hallway with moving sidewalks and go all the way to the very end.

• Upon going up the slope and coming out to the tracks, you'll be at track 25. The Leonardo will be to your right on Track 26 or 27.

• Be sure to stamp your ticket in one of the yellow machines before boarding.

The train leaving Termini to Fiumincino Airport leaves every :22 and :52 after the hour.

TaxiIf you’d rather use a taxi, be forewarned: rip offs are extremely prevalent. There is a flat rate fee of €30 for a taxi ride from the airport into Rome (it will be more if you have a larger party).

Quick Tip –– Taxi AlternativeI recommend using Alex’s service, Italy Airport Limousine. His rates are only slightly higher (starting at €40), and depending on how large your party is, will pick you up in a nice, clean, air conditioned sedan, minivan, or whatever vehicle you might need. Plus, his driver will be waiting for you in the arrivals lounge with your name on a sign––and they speak English. His number (if dialing from the US) is 0039 335 83 05322. If your traveling party is larger than two people, this is a much better and cheaper option for going to the airport for your flight back to the U.S. (as opposed to the Leonardo Express).

GelatoGelato is Italian ice cream. It’s a way of life here. Our favorite gelateria is Old Bridge, which is right across the street from the Vatican (off Piazza del Risorgamento)––a perfect stop after the Vatican Museum or while shopping on Via Ottaviano and Via Cola di Rienzo. They have the best gelato, the best price, the biggest scoops, and the nicest guys to serve you. You’ll know you’re in the right place when you see a large line in front of a hole in the wall.

Quick Tip –– Gelato ScamsBeware buying gelato near tourist attractions. A small cone should cost around €2. Unsuspecting tourists can be surprised when the bill tallies anywhere from €13 to €25. Always ask first what something costs...quanto costa?

InternetInternet can be a little tricky to find here. WiFi spots are not near as prevalent here as in the U.S., as Italians are a bit leery of it. If your hotel doesn’t have internet, there are internet cafés all over the city. To find one close to where you are staying, click here. The cafés in Villa Borghese have WiFi, which makes a nice place to take your laptop, go through email, and people-watch.

Money Matters

Cash & ATM CardsWhile the rest of Europe is almost like being at home in terms of using your ATM and credit cards, Italy is still very much a cash society, so you'll want to plan accordingly and have plenty of cash on hand.

Quick Tip –– Increase Withdrawal LimitIf your credit rating is in good standing, you can ask your bank to increase your daily withdrawal limit (usually around $300) from ATM machines. Let them know you’re traveling to Italy and will need to pay cash for hotel rooms.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– Bank FeesIf you have an account with Bank of America, you can use your ATM card at the BNL Banks (Banco Nazionale del Lavoro) here in Rome without any surcharges and get the best exchange rate possible. Otherwise, you can expect a total of about $15 in surcharges for each ATM transaction.

Quick Tip (and money-saving!) –– American ExpressIf you have an American Express card, another option is to head to the American Express office at Piazza di Spagna (coming out of the Metro station, walk past the Spanish Steps and you'll see it on your left). The first $500, they will exchange for you for free. After that, they exchange it on a percentage basis.

Credit CardsTo avoid a potential hassle, call your credit card company and let them know you’ll be traveling overseas. Some companies love this; some don’t. Do it anyway so they’ll make a note on your account. Otherwise, the possibility is extremely high that your card will eventually be declined while you are traveling.

Power AdaptersYou’ll probably need plenty of adapters for any electrical items you bring. Most computers, iPods, and cell phones only need the adapters. Other items may need a transformer. You cansave yourself a trip to the store and save a few bucks by ordering a 10-pack from Amazon by clicking the banner to the right.

Quick Tip –– Hair DryersDon’t even bother bringing your hair dryer. You’re better off just buying one here if you absolutely need it.

RestaurantsSuggesting good restaurants in Italy is a problem because it’s extremely rare to run into a bad restaurant anywhere in Italy. It’s easier to simply eat somewhere in the part of the city you are currently located. You really can’t go wrong. Look at the menu before you go in and check the prices. Pastas are typically around €7 or €8. Pizzas are between €5-7 and are typically ordered a pizza per person. When you are finished eating, you will need to ask the server for the bill (“il conto, per favore”). Don’t think that it’s bad service––they’re simply allowing you to enjoy your evening.

Here’s a small list (based on neighborhoods):

Centro Storico (Historical Center)Ristorante il Gabriello (good food, but tight and lots of tourists)

Camp dei FioriFiletti di Baccala (Rome’s version of Long John Silver’s––only far, far better)

PantheonOsteria da Mario (great outdoor dining on cobblestone street)

VaticanLa Fiorentina (sidewalk dining under lights make for a nice romantic option)L’Isola della Pizza (classic Italian ambience and food, pasta or pizza...love it!)Falcone (excellent antipasti, and be sure to get the tartufo nero!)La Fenice (very good and reasonable prices)

TrastevereTrattoria da Mario (a must for the true trattoria experience, fixed €9 menu)

TransportationCar RentalsIf you're renting a car, make your reservation before you get to Europe...it will be cheaper. Automatic transmissions are pretty rare here, so you’ll need to know how to drive a stick-shift. You’ll need your U.S. driver’s license and passport to rent a car. If you’re here for 17 days or longer, you might rather lease a car (see Quick Tip below).

Quick Tip –– Car LeasingIf you need a car for longer than 17 days, it often makes economical sense to lease one. This idea has taken hold in France with Peugeot and Renault offering lease programs (this doesn't mean you have to pick up your car in France).

You can arrange the whole thing online. The beauty of this is that:

• you’ll have a brand new car outfitted to your specifications

• not only will it be fully insured, but the insurance cost is included in the lease

• unlimited kilometers

• drivable by any qualified driver in your family

• it won’t be cluttered with ads from the rental agency

Often someone will meet you at the airport with your new car, or someone will pick you up and drive you to a lot close to the airport or train station. You will receive an overview of the car’s functions and features.

For more information on car leasing in Europe, click here.

Quick Tip –– GasGas is extremely expensive here––around €6-8 per gallon. Get a diesel car, not only because diesel fuel is cheaper, but also gets better gas mileage. You’ll save around 40% on your fuel costs if you go with diesel.

Quick Tip –– ParkingIf you’re coming to Rome with a rental car, you’ll want to park it while you’re here. Otherwise, you’ll spend all your time searching for parking spots. If you’re staying in the apartment near us, I may be able to get you a parking spot in a garage for €15 per day.

TrainsIf you're traveling by train, buy your tickets or passes before you get here...it will be cheaper, even with a first class upgrade. You can do this at raileurope.com or eurail.com.

Quick Tip –– Train PassesIf you have a multi-day train pass––or are trying to figure out how many days to purchase on your pass––buy individual tickets when your are here for short routes. For example, the train (the slow one) between Rome and Naples is only €10. It’s cheaper to buy this individual ticket than use/add a day on your pass.

Getting Around RomeTry to stay in accommodations near the subway (called Metro here) as nearly all of the sites you'd want to see are easily accessible by the subway, and Rome's public transportation is about the cheapest in Europe. To help in planning, here's a quick breakdown of passes Roma Atac offers:

• Single trip (one way): €1 • Daily (unlimited travel): €4• Tourist (3 days/unlimited): €11• Weekly passes (7 days/unlimited): €16• Monthly: €30

Quick Tip –– The Roma PassThe Roma Pass (€23) is a three-day pass that covers unlimited public transportation on subways and buses, free or discounted entry to your first two sights (you also get to skip the ticket line), and then a discount of about 30% off on the rest of the sights within the three-day window. My suggestion: use it for the two most expensive sights you plan to visit. Definitely use it for the Colosseum (€12) to skip the long lines.

Getting Around ItalyRome is a great hub to base your trip to Italy. From here you can get to other parts of Italy quickly and easily. From here you can get to:

• Amalfi Coast (2:30 by train or car)• Cinque Terre (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 4:20 by car)• Orvieto (1:20 by train / 1:30 by car)• Florence (1:30 or 3:00 by train / 3:00 by car)• Naples (1:10 or 2:10 by train / 2:15 by car)• Pisa (3:00 or 4:00 by train / 3:45 by car)• Tuscany (2 hours by train or car)• Venice (4 hours by train / 5.5 hours by car)

Another great city to use as a hub for day trips is Florence.

Things to Do and See

Amalfi Coast and CapriThis is personally my favorite place. Amazing place...and absolutely gorgeous. The only site to see is the Coast itself. It is stunningly beautiful. And the people are incredibly nice. If you can muster a little Italian, whoever you are talking to will act as if you've been friends for life. Is very similar to the Cinque Terre, so you may want to do only one or the other. The drive along the coast is a similar experience to the Pacific Coast Highway...beautiful vistas, and amazing engineering that'll have your heart up in your throat as you drive along hanging off the 500 ft. cliffs.

The quickest, most fun way to get there is take the Eurostar from Rome to Naples (1 hour), then hop on a ferry for a 30-minute ride to Sorrento (one of my family's favorite restaurants is here...Ristorante Delfino) and you're there. Then you can venture out to other villages like Positano, Amalfi, Ravello, and the Isle of Capri via ferry, private boat charter, bus, or our favorite mode...scooter. Take your pic of towns...they're all beautiful. Another option is taking the train all the way to Salerno, which is a straight shot from Rome. Then you can venture out to the coast by ferry, boat, bus, or scooter.

My recommendation: stay at Villa Scarpariello between Amalfi and Minori. It's a picturesque (words can't describe) located on the cliffs between the road and the sea. It has access to the sea for swimming, and it's own private boat dock. Take the train to Salerno, and a private boat will drop you off right at Villa Scarpariello in 30 minutes. Piero and Domenic will take care of everything for you. They'll even have a rental scooter delivered for you so you can explore the coast. For more info, see http://www.vrbo.com/56451.

The Amalfi Coast is also home to the Ravello Music Festival in the summer. Ravello is a small town up 1,000 feet in the mountains. The locals construct a stage on the cliff. You listen to chamber music with the sea, mountains, sunset and glimmering lights of the towns below as the backdrop. One of its concerts is at 4:00 AM which coincides with a meteor shower, so the music is accompanied by a sky full of falling stars. For more information, see http://www.ravellofestival/. com.

I wouldn't recommend doing Capri in the summer. It's extremely touristy, extremely expensive, MAJOR crowds, and really isn't "Italian" anymore. It feels like Key West...only with mountains. Nowhere else in Italy will you find American brands and chains, but they are prevalent here in Capri. The Blue Grotto (Grotta Azzurra) is cool though.

(See related posts “A Weekend on the Amalfi Coast,” “A Weekend in Sorrento,” and “My Big Fat Italian Wedding”)

BolognaThere’s really not much to see and do here, although it is a beautiful city. The food is fantastic though––reportedly the best in Italy––so if you’re traveling through by car or rail, by all means stop and enjoy some tortellini!

(See related post, “Bellybuttons in Bologna”)

Cinque TerreThis is the Italian Riviera...a series of five villages wedged between the mountains and the Mediterranean. No cars are allowed here. You'll have to take a separate train from La Spezia. Hop off the train at the first town of Riomaggiore and hike 20 minutes along the Via dell'Amore (Lover's Way) to the next village of Manarola. This is where engaged Italian couples will come, bring a padlock to symbolize uniting their love for each other, and lock it on the fence along the Via dell'Amore, then toss the key forever into the sea.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

FlorenceThe best overall art gallery is the Uffizi, but the most impressive piece of art is Michelangelo's "David" in the Accademia gallery. I have spent an entire morning just sitting in front of him. Reservations are highly recommended for both galleries.

Stay at Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti, an old monastery, or in some amazing apartments with the Duomo as your backdrop.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Morning with David”)

Lake ComoJust north of Milan are three lakes that are drop-dead beautiful; one of the most beautiful settings I've ever seen. Lake Como is the most famous, with several famous actors owning villas on the lake. The region is quite expensive, but Rick Steves has some strategies and suggestions if you want to stay around here.

LuccaThis town, near the Cinque Terre and Pisa, is the only city in Italy with its entire medieval city wall still fully intact. The wall is so large, a tree-lined road is built on top with a park-like setting. Stop by for a 30-minute bike ride on the wall (you can rent bikes just inside the wall at almost any entrance), have dinner, enjoy a gelato on a piazza, then head back to the train and venture on.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

NaplesOnly a one hour train ride from Rome (on the Eurostar), Naples isn't a place where you want to hang out much. Most of it is quite dirty, and it's Italy's most crime-ridden city. In the words of my nine year old son, "it looks like a bomb went off, and nobody bothered to pick anything up." However, if you're heading to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii, or points further south, it's worth hopping off the train and spending the afternoon exploring the area around Piazza Garibaldi and enjoying a slice in the birthplace of pizza. Being the birthplace of pizza, grab one for only €4 at L'Antica Pizzeria or Pizzeria Trianon. Both are across the street from each other, and only a few minutes walk from the train station. If you're walking to the ferry, they're on the way.

Quick Tip –– Pickpocket AlertnessThe whole ploy to pick-pocketing is catching you when you least expect it...with people you least likely expect. So watch out for cute children..they're distracting your attention. Same goes for someone standing outside your train car knocking on your window (as you're waiting for the train to depart)...chances are, someone's standing behind you waiting for you to look the other way. If you get swept up in a mob of teenage girls in the subway station, put your hand on your wallet or purse to make sure it's there. Think about what you're communicating visually...if you're pulling a big suitcase on wheels, they already know you're a tourist. Top that off with a fanny pack, and you've just broadcasted to everyone where your most important stuff is.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

Pompeii and Mount VesuviusVery interesting, beautiful, and easy to get to. You can spend just a couple of hours or make a day of it. It’s quite easy to make a day trip from Rome. Take the Eurostar (the fast train) from Termini to the Napoli Centrale station (1 hour), then you will need to take a different train, the Circumvesuviana, to Pompeii (30 minutes).

The Circumvesuviana train can be tricky to find at the station in Naples. When you get off the train from Rome, turn left at the end of the platform and head toward track 24. When you get to the end, turn right and follow the hallway. You’ll see glass walls with escalators on the other side heading downstairs. Walk around the glass and the large column to take these escalators. At the bottom of the escalators, turn right and walk all the way to the end of the hall. The ticket windows will be to your left.

Get off the train at the Pompei Scavi stop (from Naples, it’s the stop after Torre Annunziata). Exiting the train station, turn right and walk about a block. The first left turn is the entrance to the ruins.

(See related post “A Weekend in Sorrento”)

RomeThere's a ton to see here, so don't cut your trip too short (like we did on our first trip here with only 3 days). You'll walk...a lot...between points of interest because they're close to each other, so give yourself some time to take it in...and recoup in between sites.

The art gallery at Villa Borghese is quite amazing, however you will need to make

reservations to see it BEFORE you get here. You'll want to make these reservations at least a couple of weeks beforehand. The sooner the better. The gallery is closed on Mondays.

Quick Tip –– Planning Your Time in RomeMost people who come through only have a couple of days. Know right now that a trip that short is a mistake––you’ll wish you had stayed longer. However, if a couple of days is all you can do, there’s a wonderful website to help you maximize your time here with 48- and 96-hour itineraries. Head to www.romaturismo.it.

Quick Tip –– Make These Reservations ASAPThere are two places you want to have reservations to before you arrive: the Vatican Museum and the Borghese Gallery. You either won’t get in, or you’ll stand in line for hours. Click on the previous links to make your reservations online and save HOURS of standing in line in the sun.

Quick Tip –– Visit Sistine Chapel FREEFYI...entrance to the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel are free on the last Sunday of each month.

Quick Tip –– Disabled PermitIf you have a disabled parking permit, bring it with you even if you're not planning to drive. Many of the museums will let you AND your spouse in for free.

Quick Tip –– Water in RomeTo hydrate yourself as you sight-see, you will see all over Rome on street corners what look like fire hydrants with a water spicket. These are for drinking. The water here is artesian well water––very safe and very good. The proper way to drink from these is to cover the end of the spicket with a finger, which will cause the water to squirt up conveniently through a small hole in the spicket. You'll want to test it before sticking your face in front of the hole.

Roman WarningsRome is an extremely safe city. The biggest problem crime-wise is pick-pockets, especially around the Termini train station. Keep your wallet in your front pocket, and simply use common sense. Beware of cute young children on the subways, especially if they "accidentally" bump into you.

You REALLY don't want to drive here. Traffic is unbelievable. Parking is impossible. Even though you remain on the same street, the name will change several times. The streets are REALLY old. Italians do not observe the painted lines on the pavement. Overall, driving here is a completely different experience. Save yourself some agony and get rid of the car if you have one.

Rome is also not a place you want to try scooters for the first time. You are taking your life into your own hands if you do. Believe it or not, everyone else will know what they're doing...even if it doesn't look like it...but you will be the one that doesn't know the system.

Ladies, don't take any flowers from a stranger. They're not free, and if you take it in your hand, you'll be in for a lengthy process of getting rid of the guy.

TuscanyIf you are a wine lover and have a car, I'd highly recommend the medieval hilltop towns of Montepulciano, Pienza, and Montalcino. All the towns are within just a few miles of each other. Stay at an agriturismo (just Google it...these are bed and breakfast type places on working vineyards/farms). This is a very famous wine region. Enjoy wine tastings and much more. And be sure to eat dinner at Osteria Aquacheta in Montepulciano (http://www.acquacheta.eu/), and order the bistecca alla fiorentina.

If you don't have a car, hop off the train between Florence and Rome for an afternoon in Orvieto. Catch the funicular up the hill, then a short bus ride will drop you off at the Duomo in the center of the town. Cool things to see here are the town itself, the view, Duomo, St. Patrick's Well, and the Etruscan caves.

If you do have a car and stop at Orvieto, then by all means make the 20-minute drive to Bagnoregio, a medieval hilltop town accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. You will be rewarded with breathtaking views of Orvieto and Bagnoregio.

You have to do Florence because of the art. But realize this city is overrun with tourists now; there aren't too many native Italians there.

Other worthy stops in Tuscany if you have the time are Siena, San Gimignano and the Chianti region.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome” and “A Weekend in Tuscany”)

PisaDon't spend any significant amount of time here. All you need to do is hop off the train, grab a taxi, head to the tower, take a quick pic (with the taxi meter still running), head back to the train station, and catch the next train. Spend your valuable and limited time in nearby Lucca, the Cinque Terre, or Florence.

(See related posts “Grandma Comes to Rome”)

VeniceAh, this place looks as good as it does on postcards. It's quite expensive here though, although Rick Steves does list some reasonable places. The gondola rides are very expensive. A budget alternative is the water taxi, which you can take directly from the train station to Piazza San Marco. Since the city is the attraction itself, we have simply hopped off the train a time or two, took the water taxi into Piazza San Marco to eat lunch, walked around and shopped a bit, then headed back to catch a later train.

Other Useful Information

Jet LagComing to Europe, the best method for fighting jet lag is to take a nap from say 10:00AM to noon. Your flight will arrive around 7:00 or 8:00AM. Hopefully your hotel will have a room already cleaned and ready for you and will let you check in early. Take a short 2-hour nap, then get up and make the most of your first day. Be sure to set your alarm clock before taking your nap because you'll snooze through 2 hours like it was nothing. If your nap is any longer than that, then you'll be waking up wide awake at 3:00AM for the next two or three nights. Shoot for going to bed on your first night around midnight. That should "lock you in" fairly quickly to European time.

I have found jet lag to be much harder going the other direction (to America). Every night around 7:00 or 8:00 PM, you'll feel like you're about to drop dead. You just have to fight through it.

Cafés and CafféWhen you walk into a café (called bars here), first walk to the cashier and say "uno caffé" (meaning "one coffee"). Upon seeing you're American, he or she will probably ask you if you want "American o espresso?" Hopefully, you'll reply "espresso" so you can get a taste of the culture. You'll pay for your coffee first, then cashier will give you a receipt, then you walk to the coffee bar. There's no line at the coffee bar, just a huddled mass of humanity...you just kind of have to elbow your way in and claim your spot. Show the barista your receipt, and tell him or her what kind of caffé you want. Here's a quick primer (there's many more, but this will get you started):

• caffé or espresso: a small shot of straight coffee

• caffé lungo: espresso with a touch more water added

• caffé macchiato: basically a mini cappuccino

• cappuccino: coffee served in a larger cup with steamed, frothy milk added

• caffé Americano: watered-down espresso in a larger cup

• caffé Hag: decaf; named after a famous brand here in Italy

Italians will stand and drink their caffé and eat their cornetto (croissant) at the bar. Typically, you will have to pay more to sit at a table.

Quick Tip –– Cappuccino for Breakfast OnlyCappuccino is a breakfast drink. Italians do not drink it after noon.

Quick Tip –– Ordering WaterIf you'd like a glass of tap water (it's very good and safe here) with your caffé, simply ask for l'acqua del rubinetto.

Cell PhonesI'm not up to speed on international plans for mobile phones, but this isn't a place you want to make an error. There are separate rates for calls, data transfer, and texts. Texts are a pretty good deal because you can receive texts for free, while your outgoing text will cost you 50 cents a pop. You'll pay a steep price for making a call while roaming in Europe. The biggest hidden danger though is leaving your email on to automatically update while here. I came home twice from Europe and had a $600 bill waiting for me because I didn't turn the email off.

Quick TipAnother option is to simply purcahse an Italian SIM card (€10) for your phone while you are here. I did this for my American iPhone. You can simply pay as you go––€10 provides me with a month or better of calls, and €2 per week gets you unlimited internet. The primary three cellular companies are Tim (pronounced team), Tre (tray), and Wind (weaned).

DressAlthough Italians are known for their expressiveness and sensuality, you may be surprised to discover they dress quite conservatively. For example, women never wear shorts...except in winter, and only with tights or leggings. You won't see miniskirts or spaghetti straps. So...if you're interested in blending in, don't wear these. But it's not something to worry or obsess over...they'll most likely spot you as a tourist anyway, and the same cultural rules don't apply for tourists.

EatingYou can't go wrong here. To make my point, food bought at gas stations is delicious. Pretty much any place that serves food is going to be fine. A place that reads tavola calda (meaning "hot table") means they serve hot food.

Quick Tip –– Types of Italian HamsA quick lesson on prosciutto (ham): Prosciutto crudo is not cooked...it's cured like American country ham, only sliced very thinly. It's my favorite. Prosciutto cotto is cooked.

LanguageUnlike the rest of Europe, Italians do not speak much English. You'll be fine around the tourist sites, but away from them you'll need to know a few phrases in Italian. Your Rick Steves book will pretty much have what you need. Or you can pick up a small pocket Italian phrase book. For starters:

• Buon giorno (good morning)• Buona sera (good afternoon)• Ciao (hello/goodbye...but only used with friends)• Prento questa (I'll have this)• Quanto costa? (how much?)• Grazie (thank you)• il conto (the bill, please)...they won't bring it until you ask for it

Leaving RomeIf you're flying out of Rome on an American carrier (Delta, American Airlines, US Airways, etc.), you're in for a bit of a hassle upon leaving because you'll be leaving from Terminal 5. So allow some extra time in getting to the airport.

As an example, most flights back to the US leave around 10:00 AM, meaning you should be at the airport around 8:00 AM. Take the 6:52 AM train from Termini so you'll arrive at the airport by 7:30. This will give you extra time to get to Terminal 5.

Once you get off the train, walk straight through the breezeway. You'll come to an intersection in the breezeway where monitors containing flight information are located. Just continue walking straight through that intersection. At the end, hang a right to go down the escalator. At the bottom of the escalator, don't go in the terminal...instead, double-back around the escalator to the bus stop where you'll catch the bus to Terminal 5. The bus will drop you off at Terminal 5. Go inside and find the line for your flight. This is passport check #1. Then you'll go to the counter to check any bags, get your boarding pass if needed, and passport check #2. Next stop is the security check. Get rid of any liquids in your bags, get out any laptops, and take off your shoes. After security is passport check #3. Then you'll jump on a bus that takes you to the gates. So...as you can see, you're going to want to give yourself some extra time to navigate the maze at the airport.

Customs Declaration FormOn the plane a flight attendant will give you a blue customs form that must be completed before you land. What's nice is that only one family member has to complete it; not every individual must have one if traveling with family. Most of it is simple; asking for your contact information and passport number.

Then it will ask a series of questions. Simply check "no" on all the questions. If you didn't answer truthfully on the questions concerning fruits, vegetables, and meats, do yourself a favor and get rid of whatever it is you're carrying. The dogs in the US airport WILL sniff them out...even if it is a single apple (ask my wife :-).

The last question asks how much money you spent on goods in the country you visited. The bottom line here is the US Customs want to know if you spent more than $600 on your trip. If you didn't spend more than $600, simply write "$0" and don't worry about listing all the items on the back of the form.

Quick Tip –– Do Not...Do not buy a whole prosciutto ham here to take home to America. They are several hundred dollars, and they WILL be confiscated at the airport.

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