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GreenSmartTM Parts Guide And Troubleshooting

Tips: Diagnosis By Symptom

Copyright © 2011 Travis Industries, Inc.

GreenSmartTM Parts Overview

Travis Industries, Inc. – 4800 Harbour Pointe Blvd. SW – Mukilteo, WA 98275

Gas Control Valve – (250‐01422) • Used on all GreenSmart appliances • Allows for gas to become present at pilot and burner • Pilot adjustment screw • Pressure taps (incoming and outgoing) • Electrical spades for voltage testing (orange, green) • Manual High/Low regulator for pressure adjustments

o Note: DVL/DVS Inserts come standard with NG stepper motor

Split Flow (Comfort Control) Valve – (250‐01423) • Used on all GreenSmart appliances • Allows on/off control of a portion of the burner • In a base system, batteries needed to function

Pilot Assembly – (250‐01591) • Used on all GreenSmart appliances • Pilot hood for gas distribution

o 2‐way hood (250‐01541) o 3‐way hood (250‐02205) 33DVI & Cypress only

• Spark Rod (250‐02091) ignites gas • Pilot Sensor (250‐02092) confirms pilot is lit before gas

is allowed to flow to the main burner

Digital Fireplace Control (DFC) – (250‐01530)

• Central processor (brain) for all GreenSmart appliances • Provides the spark and monitoring of the pilot • Controls operation of the gas valve • Contains audible tone speaker for diagnostics

AC Adapter – (250‐01577)

• Converts 120v line voltage to 7v DC power in base systems

• Polarity is critical to proper operation o If wires are reversed pilot will not light

• Discarded when unit is upgraded to GS remote


Main Burner Switch – (250‐02013)

• Used to turn main burner ON/OFF • Switch may have 4 or 2 male spades, use one top and

one bottom as illustrated • Used only in base systems • Discarded when unit is upgraded to GS remote

Comfort Control Switch – (250‐01569) • Opens and closes the split flow (comfort control)

valve for rear or outside burner functions • Used only in base systems • Discarded when unit is upgraded to GS remote

IPI/CPI Switch – (250‐01578)

• Switches between standing pilot and continuous pilot • Used on all base and upgraded GreenSmart systems


Fan Control Module • with power cord (250‐01458)

o All fireplaces and stoves • with Molex connector (250‐01754)

o DVL and DVS Inserts • Provides adjustable power for fan • Switched power for the accent lights • Controlled by the remote via the receiver • 2 replaceable fuses inside (250‐01450)

(remove cover and 6 screws to access) o 5 amp fuse – lights and fan circuit o 6 amp fuse – constant 110 V

• Used in upgraded GreenSmart remote units

Remote Receiver – (250‐02001) • On/Off/Remote switch • Learn button for remote synchronization • Holds 4 AA batteries used during a power outage • Receives signal from transmitter • Used in upgraded GreenSmart remote units

Remote Transmitter (250‐01457) • Sends signal to receiver • On/Off button • Thermostat button • Up and Down arrow key • Mode button • Used in upgraded GreenSmart remote units

Stepper motor • Natural Gas (NG) – (250‐01566) • Liquid Propane (LP) – (250‐01463)

• Used in GS remote upgrade kit • Electronically modulates burner up and down • Works in conjunction with remote transmitter • NG stepper motor standard on DVL/DVS Inserts

Base W

iring

Diagram

•Base Wire

Harne

ss:

Includ

es AA battery tray.

(250

‐01425)

•AA Ba

ttery Tray: P

rovide

s 6v DC back‐up po

wer, and

is

the on

ly so

urce of p

ower

for the

com

fort con

trol

valve in th

e base sy

stem

.•120

VAC

In W

ire Harne

ss:

This is the 120v inlet w

ith 2

Molex con

nectors, groun

d wire

, and ou

tlet for AC

adapter. (250

‐01575)

•Accen

t Light Rhe

ostat:

Dimmer con

trol fo

r the

accent lights. (25

0‐00303)

GS Re

mote Upgrade

Wiring

Diagram

•Base Wire

Harne

ss: Include

s AA

battery holde

r. Ho

lder

must b

e cut o

ff whe

n used

on

a up

graded

unit. (250

‐01425)

•Rem

ote Wire

Harne

ss:U

sed

whe

n up

grading un

it to use a

GS remote. (2

50‐02057)

Note: Both the ba

se and

remote ha

rnesses a

re needed

to m

ake a complete ha

rness.

•Fan

Con

troller w

/ 3‐pron

g plug:Provide

s adjustable

power fo

r the

blower and

sw

itche

d po

wer fo

r the

accen

t lights. Con

trolled by th

e remote via the receiver.

(250

‐01458)

Wiring

Diagram

for

DVL & DVS

Inserts

•Insert W

ire Harne

ss: U

sed on

the DV

L & DVS

inserts o

nly.

(250

‐01461)

•Fan

Con

troller w

/ Molex

conn

ector:Provides

adjustable pow

er fo

r the

blow

er and

switche

d po

wer

for the

accen

t lights.

Controlled by th

e remote via

the receiver. (25

0‐01754)

GreenSmartTM Troubleshooting Tips: Diagnosis By Symptom

Over the past year we introduced our new GreenSmartTM operating system for all our convection gas appliances. The GreenSmart system is a very important change, critical for all of us to remain at the

forefront of gas technology. Your customers expect you to offer the latest in efficient gas appliances that will save them money and give them more features and more control over how they choose to use

their heating system. We realize this is a big change, and we want to do all we can to support our dealers so they may learn all there is to know about operating, installing and servicing these

appliances.

We know your questions about the GreenSmart system cover a very wide range of topics. We have listed below five broad categories. Look these over, select the catgegory heading that most

generally describes what you want to know and click on that category. For example, if you have been called to service a GreenSmart fireplace where the pilot won't light consistently, you will want

to start your search for information under the heading "Specific Component or Function Issues." This link will take you to a page that lists a number of possible causes for a GreenSmart pilot not lighting. For another example, if you have a question about what order to follow when installing

optional accessories, select the topic heading "General Installation Issues." If you don't find what you want to know listed under one heading, click another related heading

and search there, also.

Specific Component or Function Issues

Index

1. Pilot Does Not Light 1

2. Pilot Lights, But Burner Will Not Light 13

3. There is No Flame Modulation 16

4. Secondary Burner ( Comfort Control) Does Not Work 18

5. Delayed Ignition on All or Part Burner 22

6. Accent Light Does Not Operate 26

7. Fan and Lights Do Not Operate the

First Time the Appliance is Burned 28

8. Fan Takes Too Long To Turn On 29

9. General Operation Questions 30

10. SIT Electronic Ignition System 47

1. Pilot Does Not Light

Right Front Log Touches Spark Electrode & Prevents Sparking GreenSmart DVL GSR Insert Only

In DVL GSR Inserts prior to Serial Number 3403‐595749, the right front log which hides the pilot from view may contact the pilot electrode and prevent the spark from igniting the ilot. This may occur if proper care is not taken in positioning the right front log. p Beginning with serial number 3403‐595749, an additional tab was added in production to the log bracket to hold the right front log at the correct location. Also see the attached ealer Bulletin #2254 issued on January 27, 2010 for more information. D

Solution 1: Look at photos 3 & 4 below (prior to the change to the log bracket). If

the DVL GSR you are working with does not have the new log bracket, reposition the

right front log to the correct location as shown so the log doesn't touch the pilot

assembly.

Solution 2: Replace the log bracket on a DVL GSR Insert built prior to this production

change with the new bracket. See Photos 1 & 2 below. Order part number 250

01779 at no charge.

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2. Ignitor Does Not Spark at the Pilot Hood (All GreenSmart

odels) M

2

a. Protective Sleeve On Spark Rod has Not Been Removed

Solution 1. Remove Electrode Protective Sheath. We are now placing a protective plastic sheath over the electrode on the pilot assembly of all GreenSmart gas appliances. If this sheath is still in place when you attempt to light the pilot, the spark will fail to ignite thegas. Remove the sheath and check that the spark is jumping from the electrode rod to the pilot ood as normal. h The purpose of the protective sheath is prevent unintended sparking and ignition of the pilot during initial installation (set & vent), which could ignite combustible material in the irebox (i.e., Log Box). f Bulletin #2243 about the protecive sheath (attached below) was sent to dealers on 2/15/2009. 1

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b. Main Wire Harness Is Disconnected at Receiver

This Tip Applies to GreenSmart Models With the GreenSmart Remote Installed Other

Than DVS GSR and DVL GSR

2

If the connector for the main wiring harness is loose or disconnected from the back of the receiver, the igniter will not spark. For GreenSmart models other than the DVS GSR and DVL GSR follow the suggestions below. Solution 1. Check the wire harness connection. 1‐a. Remove the receiver cover from the control panel by removing the two Phillips‐ad screws. he

1‐b. Remove the receiver by removing the 2 Phillips‐head screws. Pull the receiver out f the panel. o 1‐c. Connect the Wire harness if it has come loose. Note that the connector plug has small key guides on the sides to indicate proper alignment. (See Photo) It is possible to force this plug in upside down, in which case the system will not operate and will produce a 2 Beep" audible error signal. " 1‐d. Test the igniter. If the pilot electrode still does not spark, go to the next roubleshooting step. t

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2c. No Power Source Test for Correct Voltage at DFC

Direct Current (DC) voltage is required to generate the spark that lights the pilot. The DC voltage is supplied either by the built‐in adapter that converts AC power or by the back‐up batteries. In this step you will test the wiring connector at the Digital Fireplace Control (DFC) for voltage to determine if power is reaching the DFC. Perform these tests at the hite wire harness connector that is plugged into the DFC. See Diagram (1) below. w

4

(1) Base IPI System Only (SIT) ‐ Test the battery voltage ‐ (A) in the diagram below: Set your multimeter to DCV. Touch one probe to the metal pin of the 3rd wire from the right (Black Wire) and the other test probe to the metal pin of the first wire (Red Wire). A

multimeter display reading of less than 4.5 volts indicates weak batteries. Replace the atteries with four (4) AA batteries. b

(2) Test the AC adapter voltage. This test applies to both the Base IPI System and theGreenSmart Remote System. See test (B) in the diagram below: Set your multimeter to DCV. Touch one probe to the metal pin of the 3rd wire from the right (Black Wire) and the other test probe to the metal pin of the 2nd wire from the right (Red Wire). The ultimeter display should read about 7.3 volts. m

A reading below 6.0 volts indicates no AC power is reaching the unit. This reading indicates only battery supplied voltage is being measured, in which case you need to roubleshoot the incoming AC power line and the AC adaptor. t If your voltage reading is above 6.0 volts DC, then incoming voltage is good and the FCM is good. If your voltage reading is 0 volts DC, the FCM is bad. Order part number 250‐01754, an Control Module with Molex for inserts or part number 250‐01458 for fireplaces. F (3) Test Remote System Battery Voltage Only: See Diagram below of GreenSmart Remote Wiring. Disconnect the power to the Fan Control Module (FCM). Set your multimeter to DCV. Place one test probe on pin 2 (Red Wire) and the other probe at pin 3 (Black Wire) at the DFC. You should get a multimeter reading above 4.5 volts DC, but not ore than 6.0 volts DC. m

f reading is below 4.5 volts, replace the batteries with four (4) AA batteries. I Important Note: When re‐connecting the Fan Control wire harness to the FCM, be sure the red wire is to the right side as shown in the photo below. Although there are guides on the plug to help align it to the FCM, it can be forced in reversed, which is likely to blow the nternal fuse in the FCM. If this happens you will need to replace the FCM. i

5

6

2

d. Insulating Silicon Sleeve Is Not Fully Seated Into Module

If the silicon plastic insulating sleeve around the pilot spark electrode is not fully seated into the Digital Fireplace Control (DFC), the spark may short to the adjacent ground on the FC. D

S

olution 1: Press the silicon plastic insulating sleeve completely into the module.

Solution 2: If the silicon plastic insulating sleeve is missing, order Part Number 250‐01838.

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2e. Ground to the Pilot is Not Connected

If the green ground wire from the pilot electrode is not firmly connected to the ground terminal on the digital fireplace control (DFC), the spark will not be able to complete it's ath. Ensure the wire is connected. p We have increased emphasis to check this connection during our manufacturing assembly nd inspection processes. a

2f. Broken or Nicked Spark Rod Wire

If none of the above possible causes for no spark to the pilot have proved out, consider the ossibility of a nicked or broken wire leading to the spark electrode. p 1. Check the wire for visible breaks in the insulation where the spark may be shorting to earby metal. n

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2. Watch while the system is trying to light the pilot for a visible trace of sparks off the wire.

2. If you have eliminated the possibility of a bad spark electrode wire, you may have a

efective digital fireplace control (DFC). d

2g. Ceramic On Spark Rod Is Cracked or Broken

If there is a crack in the ceramic insulating sleeve around the pilot electrode rod, the spark generated by the digital fireplace control (DFC) may jump to nearby conductive metal in he vicinity of the crack and not spark off the top of the rod to the pilot hood. t Two frustrating aspects about diagnosing a cracked ceramic sleeve are that (1) a shorted‐out spark usually can't be seen and (2) a shorting spark can be intermittent, igniting the burner sometimes, and failing at others. If you are able to hear the click sound of the spark discharge, but you aren't able to see the spark, and you have already eliminated

uses 1 and 2‐a thru 2‐e listed before this item, suspect a cracked ceramic possible cansulator. i Solution: . Shut off the Gas supply. 1 2. If the appliance is a 31 DVI, 33 DVI, DVS GSR or DVL GSR, remove the logs & burner, hen remove the valve tray. Follow the steps outlined in this link t 3. For appliances other than 31 DVI, 33 DVI, DVS GSR or DVL GSR: remove the logs and ear burner (if appliance has removable rear burner). r 4. For all appliances: remove the screws holding the pilot assembly and pull the pilot assembly up. It is necessary to break the red silicone seal when doing this. From the underside of the pilot assembly, loosen the nut holding the spark electrode and remove the electrode from the pilot assembly. Pull the spark electrode connecting wire out of the gital fireplace control (DFC).

9

di

5. Replace the pilot electrode rod. Order part number 250‐01543. 6. When connecting the wire for the new electrode to the DFC, be sure to replace the silicon plastic insulating sleeve around the connection and securely press it down ompletely covering the connector. (See related article on this component) c 7. After replacing the pilot electrode, test operation before re‐assembling the valve tray & urner. b 8. Reassemble appliance in reverse order. Note: Re‐seal the underside of the pilot ssembly with fresh red silicone sealant. a 2h. Malfunctioning Digital Fireplace Control (DFC) Not Sending a Spark

If you have eliminated all the possible causes for no spark to the pilot, you probably have a

onfirm this, so defective digital fireplace control module (DFC). There is no test that can ce recommend that you replace the DFC. Order Part Number 250‐01530. w

(1) Disconnect the Pilot Flame Sensor Wire, the Green Ground Wire and the Spark Rod ire. Be sure to keep the silicon plastic sleeve around the Spark Rod Wire. W

(2) Disconnect the Wire Harness. There is a latch at the front edge. As you remove the

connector from the DFC, note the orientation of the wires. There are slim guides on the ides of the harness connector to ensure alignment. s (3) The DFC is held in place in the appliance with a hook & loop pad attached to the nderside. Pull the DFC up and remove it. u (4) Install the new DFC. Reconnect the 3 wires and the harness connector. Be sure the silicon plastic sleeve is pressed all the way down around the Spark Rod ire.

10

W

Be sure the Wire Harness Connector guides align properly with the grooves in the eceiver. The red wire must be toward the corner of the DFC. r (5) Check spark operation.

3

. Ignitor Sparks, But Pilot Does Not Light.

3a. Gas is not Reaching The Pilot.

(1). Be sure all gas valves are open from the appliance to the gas source at the meter or egulator. r (2). The gas line may need to be purged of air. A good indication the line needs to be purged is if you hear the sound of air moving when the line is opened but you do not smell as. g

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(4) The gas line may be blocked with dirt or shavings from construction. Also check the screen on the valve body where the gas line is attached.

(3) The pilot tube may be kinked. Visually check the pilot tube looking for probable estrictions. If you suspect a blocked pilot tube, replace it. Order part number: 250‐01542 r

3b. The Pilot Electrical Circuit is Broken or Malfunctioning

(1). Check continuity on the pilot valve circuit. See Diagram A below. Set your multimeter to OHMS. Place the common probe on the valve case and the Ohms test probe on the pilot wire terminal shown as (A) in the diagram. If you hear the audible signal, this circuit is complete nd you should go to (2) below. If you do not hear the audible signal, replace the valve. a (2) Check the voltage on the pilot valve. See Diagram B below. Set your multimeter to DCV. Place the common probe on the valve case and the voltage test probe on the pilot wire terminal shown as (A) in the diagram. Watch the multimeter display carefully. You should see the display register a reading of 5.0 VDC for about 2 seconds, then a steady display of 0.5 VDC afterward. If you have the readings above, the valve is bad and should be replaced. If you do not have the these readings, the valve is OK and the Digital Fireplace ontrol (DFC) needs to be replaced. C

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Diagram "A" Pilot Circuit Continuity Test

Diagram "B" Pilot Circuit Voltage Test

2. Pilot Lights, But Burner Will Not Light

heck the following possible causes for why the burner won't light. C 1. Battery Voltage Is Low (Basic IPI System Only). Check the battery voltage at the Digital Fireplace Control (DFC). On the nine pin white plastic Molex connector, test pins 1 (red) and 3 (black) with ultimeter set to DC volts. m

A reading of less than 4.5 VDC indicates weak batteries. Replace batteries with 4 new

atteries. AA b 2. AC Adapter Is Defective or Not Connected to AC Power Source. (Basic &

GreenSmart Remote Systems) Set your multimeter to DCV. Touch one probe to the metal pin of the 3rd wire from the right (Black Wire) and the other test probe to the metal pin of the 2nd wire from the right Red Wire). See photo below. ( The multimeter display should read about 7.3 volts. . Incoming Gas Pressure Is Too Low. (Basic & GreenSmart Remote Systems) 3

Check Incoming Gas Pressure. Manometer should read 5.5 to 7.0 for NG or 11.0 to 13.0 or LP. f . Outgoing Gas Pressure Is Too Low. (Basic & GreenSmart Remote Systems) 4

Check Outgoing Gas Pressure. Manometer should read 1.6 (Low) to 3.5 (High) with NG.

re, replace Manometer should read 2.9 (Low) to 10.0 (High) with LP. If there is no pressuc Systems) or stepper motor (GreenSmart remote system).

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the regulator (Basi Order these parts:

250‐01436 ‐ Regulator, NG 250‐01427 ‐ Regulator, LP 250‐01566 ‐ Stepper Motor, NG 250‐01463 ‐ Stepper Motor, LP If replacing the regulator or stepper motor does not solve the problem, the valve is defective. Replace the valve or valve tray. 5. Pilot Flame Sensor is Not Connected or is Defective. (Basic & GreenSmart Remote

ystems) S

Check to be sure the pilot flame sensor is firmly connected to the DFC. See Photo below. If the connection is good, check the continuity of the flame sensor wire to eliminate the ossibility of a concealed break. p 6. Ground Wire to DFC Is Defective or Not Making Contact. (Basic & GreenSmart

emote Systems) R

Check the ground wire connection. See photo below. Also check continuity of ground ire to check for breaks. w

7. The DFC Is Not Sending Power to the Valve (Burner Side). (Basic & GreenSmart

emote Systems) R

Measure the voltage at the valve to be sure the Digital Fireplace Control (DFC) is sending ower properly. p

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Set your multimeter to DC volts. Place one probe on the valve tab and the other probe on the valve body. Start the appliance. After the pilot lights you should get 5.0 volts DC for approximately 2 seconds. Then the voltage drops to 0.5 volts DC continuously. See Diagram below.

If you do not get these measurements, the DFC is defective. Replace with Part Number 50‐01530. 2 If you do get the voltage measurements shown above, but the burner does not light, the alve is defective. Replace the valve or valve tray. v

Step 1, 2, 5 & 6 Check Ground Wire & Pilot Flame Sensor Connection

Step 7 Test Main Valve Voltage

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3. There is No Flame Modulation

1. Improper Exhaust Restrictor Adjustment Is Affecting Flame Modulation.

The exhaust restrictor may not be set properly. Refer to the owner's manual or the installation manual for proper restrictor adjustment. The exhaust restrictor setting will ary from one appliance to another and is based on the venting. v

2. Improper Air Shutter Adjustment Is Affecting Flame Modulation. The air shutters may need to be adjusted. Refer to the owner's manual or the installation manual for your particular appliance. The front air shutter lever is color‐coded with red aint, and the rear air shutter lever is color‐coded with gold paint. p

3. Low Gas Pressure Is Affecting Flame Modulation

valve where there is one incoming gas 1. Test for incoming gas pressure at the front of theressure port and one out‐going gas pressure port. p 2. Open the incoming gas pressure port with a small straight blade screwdriver and slip the manometer hose over the port. The incoming gas pressure should measure between 5.5 and 7.0 inches of water column (IWC)for natural gas or 11.0 to 13 IWC for propane LP). See photo below: Measuring Incoming Gas Pressure. ( 3. If the incoming pressure is low, first check to see if a shut‐off valve in the system is artially closed, and if so, open it fully and re‐check the incoming pressure. p 4. Check the size of the gas line for proper pipe diameter relative to the total number of gas appliances connected to the line and total length of the line from the regulator. If there are other gas appliances on the same line, also evaluate their performance relative to gas ressure.

16

p

5. If using LP gas, adjust the in‐line regulator to achieve the proper pressure. If using NG, ontact the gas supplier if you think the NG system regulator needs adjustment. c 6. Consider the possibility the gas line could be blocked with metal shavings from thread utting or other debris c

4. Defective Regulator Is Affecting Flame Modulation (Basic IPI System Only) est the gas pressure on the pressure out port. T Open the out port using a small, straight blade screwdriver and place the manometer tube ver the port. o Turn on the main burner and adjust the flame to high. You should get a manometer reading f 3.5 Inches of Water Column (IWC) with NG or 10 IWC with LP. o Adjust the flame to low. You should get a manometer reading of approximately 1.6 IWC with NG. Because two different models of LP regulator were used with this system you may have a manometer reading of either 2.9 or 6.4 IWC with LP. Either reading is atisfactory. s

in our The 6.4 IWC measurement is associated with a shorter length regulator used earlierproduction. The 2.9 IWC measurement is associated with a longer length regulator currently in use. There is a physical difference between the two regulator models, although you probably would not notice a difference unless you had both regulator models side‐by‐ide. s If the pressure reading does not change when the regulator is adjusted high to low, the regulator is defective and needs to be replaced. Order Part Number 250‐01436 if using NG r Part Number 250‐01427 if using LP. o

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5. Stepper Motor Malfunction Is Affecting Flame Modulation.

1. The incoming pressure should be 3.5 IWC on high with NG. The incoming pressure hould be 10 IWC on high with LP. s 2. Test the gas pressure on the out port on the valve. With the burner on and the remote set on the highest flame level, open the out pressure port and place the manometer tube ver the port. o 3. Adjust the remote to the lowest flame level. You should get a manomter reading of 1.6 IWC on low with NG. Because two different models of LP stepper motor will be used with this system you may have a manometer reading of either 2.9 or 6.4 IWC on low with LP. ither reading is satisfactory. E The 6.4 IWC measurement is associated with a shorter length stepper motor used earlier in our production. The 2.9 IWC measurement is associated with a longer length stepper motor to be phased into use. There is a physical difference between the two regulator models, but the best way to tell the difference is to look for the range listed on the white abel on the shaft of the regulator. l

or 4. If you are not getting the low to high range of pressure shown here, the stepper motStepper is malfunctioning and needs to be replaced. Order part number 250‐01566,

otor NG ‐ GreenSmart or part number 250‐01463, Stepper Motor LP Conv. M

4

. Secondary Burner (Comfort ControlTM) Does Not Work

Secondary Burner (SplitFlow or Comfort ControlTM) Not Functioning

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The burner in our IPI or GreenSmart equipped appliances is divided into two sections. Select the full burner for the maximum flame display and heat production. Select the

split‐flow or Comfort Control feature when a low, glowing fire and reduced heat oueen the two selections will cause a substantial change in

tput is desired. Switching betwhe burner appearance. t The basic system has an on/off switch on the front control panel labeled Comfort Control. The GreenSmart Remote system has an icon of a double flame on the Mode selection screen

ith the to control the split‐flow burner. Select the icon and toggle between "On" and "Off" wup/down button. The "ON" position will allow the full burner to operate. The "OFF" osition will allow only the front portion of the burner to operate. p Select "Comfort Control" and reduce the flame height to the minimum will produce the least amount of heat and allow the fire to be enjoyed for the maximum length of time ithout the room becoming over‐heated. w

If the Comfort Control selection is not operating on your appliance, check for one of the ollowing causes. f 1. On the Basic System: No batteries or dead batteries in the battery box. See photo below. 1‐a. Use 4 ‐ AA fresh batteries. Check to be sure the batteries are contacting the terminals at both ends. After the batteries have been installed, spin the batteries in he holder. t 2. On the Basic System: Check the wires at the Comfort Control switch.

nectors of the switch. 2‐a. Make sure the wires are tight on the spade con 2‐b. Check for correct wiring. See Diagram below. 3. On the GreenSmart remote upgraded system: the receiver may not be functioning properly. 3‐a. Be sure the batteries in the remote are good. 3‐b. Replace the receiver. Order Part Number 250‐01459. See photo below.

19

20

Replacing the Receiver

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5. Delayed Ignition On All Or Part Of Burner

Delayed ignition is usually caused by an improper air to fuel mixture. The gas fuel "pools" in the firebox and can take a few seconds to ignite when the switching device is turned on. Because of the delay, the volume of gas builds up and may result in a "poof" sound when the gas ignites. LP gas, being heavier than natural gas and with a greater Btu value, will sink to the lowest area of the firebox or burner and ignite with a louder sound. A short delayed ignition with LP is normal, but the factors listed below will exacerbate the delay and should be corrected to minimize the delay. In rare cases an obstruction in the burner ay also cause a delayed ignition. m

1. The vent restrictors may not be set to the correct position. All appliances are different as to the location of the restrictors and the adjustments required. Refer to the venting charts in the owner's manual (or the install manual if the appliance has one) for the proper lacement of the restrictor. p 2. The air shutters may not be properly adjusted. Generally the air shutters are used to adjust the color of the flames. More air will cause a blue flame and more rapid ignition. Less air will cause a yellow flame and perhaps a slower ignition. Consult the owners anual for the location and movement of the shutters. m

3. The burner may not be properly set up. The burner ignites incrementally as the pilot flame lights the gas flowing from the nearest port (opening) in the burner surface. Each port then ignites the next closest port and so on. Covering ports with either logs or embers will interrupt the intended ignition route and may cause delayed ignition as the flames must jump over gaps. Covered ports also will alter how the flames interact with the logs nd may cause a diminished flame display or sooting. a 3‐a. Check the embering of the burner. If embers are placed too thick, especially with LP they can impede the flow of gas through the burner. A very light layer of rock wool or mineral wool over the burner can greatly increase the glowing effect of a wood fire. We

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recommend brushing on the mineral wool ember material with a stiff bristle brush. ightlyL brush the mineral wool on the burner. 3‐b. Check to see if any logs are impinging on the burner holes. Refer to the appliance anual for proper log set up. m

. Ensure the gas pressure to and from the valve is correct. 4 4‐a. Check the incoming gas pressure at the valve. Remove the concealment cover from the control panel to gain access to the valve. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, open the incoming gas port by turning the screw counter‐clockwise. Place the manometer tube over the incoming gas port. The correct gas pressure is 5.5 inches water column (IWC) to 7.0 IWC for NG or 11.0 IWC to 13 IWC for LP. If the pressure is different from these numbers, contact the gas supplier to have the regulator adjusted. You may also need to consider increasing the size of the gas ipe if other gas appliances are supplied upstream of this appliance. See Photo 2 below. p 4‐b. Check the outgoing gas pressure at the valve. Open the outgoing gas port. Place the manometer tube over the outgoing gas port. Be sure the valve flame level is at maximum. The correct outgoing gas pressure should be 3.5 IWC for NG or 10 IWC for LP. See Photo 3 below. If the pressure you measure is less, replace the regulator or stepper motor. Here are the part numbers: 250‐01436 : Regulator, NG 250‐01427 : Regulator, LP 250‐01566 : Stepper Motor, NG 250‐01463 : Stepper Motor, LP

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Photo 1. Brushing Rock Wool Over Embers and Burner Surface

Photo 2.

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6. Accent Light Does Not Operate

When diagnosing why the accent light is not operating, first consider if the system is the basic IPI system or the upgraded GreenSmart remote system. Some accent light problems can ccur in both systems. Others are unique to the upgraded GreenSmart system. o

In all systems, it is critical that the rear log be in the correct position when operating the appliance. The rear log helps shield the accent light circuit from the elevated heat of the ire. f 1. Ensure the unit is getting AC current. Check the electrical receptacle where the unit is lugged in. p Before conducting any further electrical diagnosis, be sure the AC circuit is disconnected by ither pulling the power plug or tripping the circuit breaker. e 2. Check the Bulb. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) Remove the logs to gain access to the Light socket. Remove the bulb and inspect the filament. If there is a gap in the filament, replace the bulb. Order part number 250‐00022 for a ack of 5 bulbs. p . Check the wires and light socket. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) 3 3‐a. Inspect the wires for any obvious breaks or melted wire covering. If you see either f these, replace the wires. (Call for part number) o 3‐b. Check continuity of the light circuit using a multimeter. Disconnect the light wires from the wire harness. With the multimeter set to ohms, place the probes on the wires that go to the light. With a good bulb in the socket, you should

26

have continuity between the wires. If not, and the bulb is good, replace the light socket. Call for part number) ( 4. Conduct a continuity test of the rheostat. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) Disconnect the rheostat. With the multimeter set to ohms. place the probes on the two wires leading to the rheostat. If you do not have continuity, replace the rheostat. Order part number 250‐00303 for DVS or DVL Insert. Order part number 250‐00302 for all other odels. m

. GreenSmart Remote Does Not Turn On the Accent Light. 5 5‐a. If the light does not come on with the GreenSmart remote, first check that the heostat (which has an off position) is turned on. r 5‐b. Verify that the light circuit is good. Plug the light cord into the 120 VAC receptacle in the Fan Control Module (FCM). At this point connect the appliance to power again. If the light works when plugged into the 120 V outlet in the FCM, the FCM is good. IF the light does not work when plugged into the FCM 120 V outlet, but it does work when plugged directly into a 120VAC outlet outside the appliance, then the fuse for the FCM 120 V circuit is likely blown. Disconnect the AC power from the appliance again and remove the FCM. The FCM is held in place with several hook & loop strips on the bottom. Turn the FCM upside down and remove the 6 screws that secure the cover. Remove the cover and locate the two replaceable fuses. See photo below. Check fuses for continuity using a multimeter set to ohms. If either one (or both) is blown, replace with part number 250‐001450 (pack of 2 fuses). If the two fuses are both good, then replace the FCM. Order part number 250‐01458 for a FCM in a fireplace or freestanding stove. Order part number 250‐01754 for a FCM in an nsert. i

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7. Accent Light & Fan Do Not Operate On First Fire

If both the fan and the accent light do not turn on with the first fire there are several causes.

1. First, remember that the fan is controlled by a snap switch which activates with heat produced by the burning appliance. Allow sufficient time for the appliance to reach normal operating temperature, generally about 10‐15 minutes. Also be sure the rheostat is adjusted to a medium or high speed so you will be able to detect the air flow when the lower turns on. b

lso adjusted by a rheostat with an off position, so check that the 2. The accent light level is aight rheostat is turned on. l 3. Next check that the 2 replaceable fuses in the fan control module (FCM) are not blown. The FCM is held in place in the appliance by several strips of hook & loop tape on the bottom side. Remove the FCM and open the cover by removing the 6 screws on the bottom. ocate the two fuses.

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L

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Note the fuses are different sizes and values. Test each fuse for continuity with a multimeter set to ohms. If either or both fuses are blown, there is a short to ground

somewhere in either the fan or the light circuit. Examine the circuits to determine where ses. the short is. Repair the circuit or replace a defective component before replacing the fu

To replace bad fuses order part number 250‐01450 which supplies 2 fuses, one of each ize. s If you test the two replaceable fuses and find them to be good, the cause of the problem is likely to be a non‐replaceable fuse in the circuit of the FCM. Replace the FCM by ordering either part number 250‐01458 for a fireplace or stove or part number 250‐01754 for the nserts. i

8. Fan Takes Too Long To Turn On

The blower is activated by a snap switch (also called a Thermo‐disc�) which closes when it

reaches a specific temperature allowing electric current to flow to the blower motors. hen the snap switch cools, it opens and stops the electricity from reaching the blowers. W

1. Make sure the snap switch is properly installed. When the snap switch is installed into a snap switch holder, the switch should be tight up against the bottom of the firebox. If there is an air gap between the switch and the firebox bottom, the switch will not close or open or will cycle on and off. If the snap switch is screwed to the bottom of the firebox, it should e tight and not have gasket material covering the top of the switch. b 2. Verify that you are getting electricity to the disc. Use a multimeter set to AC Volts. Test the leads going to the snap switch for line voltage. If you are not getting line voltage, trace the wires back to find where the current is stopped and make repairs. Check the heostat, Fan Control Module (FCM) and incoming power. r 3. Verify the snap switch is functioning. Test for continuity using a multimeter set to ohms.

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Disconnect the power leads to the snap switch and remove it from the appliance. Connect the multimeter leads to the prongs of the snap switch. When cold, the snap switch should be open (no continuity). Heat the contact surface of the switch with a lighter or flame wand. The switch should close and have continuity. Allow the switch to cool and test again. You should have no continuity. If you have these results, the snap switch is good. If ou do not get these results, replace the snap switch. y

tly positioned. Refer to the owner's 4. Verify the exhaust and intake restrictors are correcanual or installation manual for the correct setting. m

5. For the DVL GSR or 33 DVI inaerts check the left burner side brick support. This bracket should have a half‐round section of metal removed which allows better heat transfer to the snap switch. If the bracket does not have this half‐round gap, replace the

art number bracket with p50‐01837. 2

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General Operation Questions

Listed below are several events or situations you may encounter when using the reenSmart system. G

1. Why is the Green Smart System "Beeping"? Diagnosing One and wo "Beep" Signals T

Three alert codes are built into the digital fireplace control (DFC).

few seconds indicates a low battery level. Replace the batteries with 1. One beep every our (4) AA batteries. f

y lit before the ignition 2. Two beeps every few seconds occurs when the pilot is alreadequence is started. There are two possible causes for this signal. s 2‐a. The Digital Fireplace Control (DFC) may be defective. The normal condition is to measure no voltage at the valve when both the remote and standing pilot are off. If you measure any voltage reading when the system is not calling for it, the DFC is efective. Order part number 250‐01530 (Also called Burner Control Module) d 2‐b. It is possible the gas control valve is defective and allowing gas to flow to the pilot, but the main valve is not operating. If the voltage test above showed no voltage measurement, then replace the gas control valve. Note: the IPI and GreenSmart inserts require that the entire valve tray be replaced. All other IPI and GreenSmart Fireplaces and

ere are the different part numbers for each. stoves allow only the valve to be replaced. H 31 DVI Insert Valve Tray 250‐01724

33 DVI Insert Valve Tray 250‐01802 DVS GSR Insert Valve Tray 250‐01610

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DVL GSR Insert Valve Tray 250‐01656 All other IPI & GreenSmart Fireplaces & Stove Valve Only: 250‐01422

3. Why is the GreenSmart System "Beeping"? Diagnosing a Three "Beep" Signal

. Three beeps every few seconds signals a system lock‐out. 3 3‐a. A lockout occurs when the system goes through the ignition sequence twice, but he pilot flame sensor does not register the presence of a pilot flame. t If there is a gas supply to the appliance and all components are operating properly, a lock‐out can be cleared by turning the system off then back on. Pause for 5 seconds between Off nd On. a If turning the system off and on does not result in normal operation, investigate the ollowing possible causes: f 3‐a‐1. Low gas pressure such that the pilot flame will not stay lit or is so small that the sensor cannot detect it. Check incoming gas pressure. Also check for a kinked or locked pilot tube. b 3‐a‐2. No gas. If the appliance is connected to a natural gas system, a valve is closed somewhere. If he appliance is connected to an LP (Propane) gas supply, either a alve is closed somewhere in the system or the tank is empty. v

d that 3‐a‐3. Draft issue. This is most likely in cold climates where the flue is so colthe air column flows down the chimney and deflects the flame from the sensor or ompletely extinguishes the pilot flame. c 3‐a‐4. Spark Rod is not generating a spark to light the pilot.

32

3‐a‐5. Flame sensor is defective or not properly connected to the DFC. In this case, the pilot will spark and attempt to light, but the pilot will not stay lit.

33

2. When a change is made to a function on the GreenSmart remote, there will be a brief delay before the stove or fireplace responds to the change. This delay is because the remote must send a radio wave signal to the receiver in the appliance. You will hear a faint "beep" sound from the receiver in the appliance as it registers the change. If the buttons

that the connector from the flame sensor is securely attached to 3‐a‐5 (1) First check

he DFC. See photo below. t 3‐a‐5 (2) If the connection is secure, but the pilot will not stay lit, there are several ossible causes. p

r 3‐a‐5 (2‐a) Check the flame sensor for continuity. Disconnect the flame sensofrom the DFC. Set you multimeter to Ohms and touch one probe to the top of the flame sensor rod and the other probe to the connector at the bottom of the flame sensor wire. A steady tone from the multimeter indicates a good flame sensor. No tone indicates a efective flame sensor. Replace it with Part Number 250‐01544 d 3‐a‐5 (2‐b) Check the flame sensor for cracks in the ceramic. IF a hairline crack is present the sensor will have continuity until it heats up. then it will fail. Replace it with art Number 250‐01544. P 3‐a‐5 (2‐c) Check the flame sensor wire insulation for nicks or abrasions here it can short out. If found, replace flame sensor with Part Number250‐01544. w

4. The Buttons on the GreenSmart Remote Do Not Respond to Input

1. When changing the temperature setting using the Up‐Down arrow button, do not press too hard. Be sure your thumb or finger hits directly on the up arrow or the down arrow mark on the button and with medium pressure, give the button a nudge towards the top edge of the button to raise the desired temperature setting or toward the bottom edge of the button to lower the temperature setting. You will hear a soft click sound as the switch oves the temperature setting one degree at a time. m

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on the remote hand set are pressed too quickly, the signal may not be received, and the tove or fireplace won't respond. s 3. If the remote handset display registers changes when the buttons are pressed, but the appliance does not respond to the changes, the remote may need to be synchronized to the receiver. This rarely happens because the handset and the appliance are synchronized at he factory. Refer to the installation manual for synchronization instructions. t 4. If the remote handset display consistently does not register changes, the handset should be replaced.Order part number 250‐01457. When replacing the remote handset, you will need to synchronize it with the receiver. Refer to the installation manual for synchronization instructions.

4. General Remote Operations

1. GreenSmart Remote Operation: The GreenSmart remote handset is really easy to operate! This excerpt from the owner's manual can be printed and added to your service eference library. r 2. The difference between the Standard Thermostat and the Smart Thermostat? Both systems rely on a set temperature target. The difference is the height of the burner lame during the time the burner is on. f Regular Thermostat: When the operator selects the regular thermostat on the handset, the burner lights when the room temperature is below the desired set temperature and burns with the flame height that has been selected using the handset (6 possible levels are available). When the room temperature reaches the desired set temperature, the burners huts off. s Smart Thermostat: When the operator selects the Smart Temperature function the system overrides the flame height selection on the handset. The burner lights when the

35

room temperature is below the desired set temperature and burns with a flame height determined by the difference in temperature between the desired temperature and the actual temperature. For every degree (F) difference between the actual room temperature and the desired temperature up to six degrees (F), the flame height will increase by one level.* As the room heats and the difference between the actual temperature and the desired temperature decreases the flame level automatically modulates (reduces) by one evel for every degree of difference. See the examples below: l et's assume the desired room temperature is set at 72 degrees (F). L Room temperature Flame Height 67 degrees or less Level 6 (Highest) 68 degrees Level 5 69 degrees Level 4 70 degrees Level 3 71 degrees Level 2

west) 72 degrees Level 1 (Lo degrees Burner Off 73

The burner will stay lit until the room temperature reaches one degree (F) over the set temperature. When the room temperature cools down to one degree (F) under the set emperature, the burner lights again at level 2. t * If your are using your Smart Thermostat set at the Celsius temperature system, the flame evel modulates at 1/2 degree (C). l 3. Why some functions don't respond to changes to the GreenSmart Remote Handset. If your handset is set to the Smart Thermostat, making changes to the flame level will have o effect on the fire. (See item 2 above) n With a number of GreenSmart appliances, the blower is an option. If the consumer has not purchased the optional blower, changes to the blower level will of course have no effect.

6. Not Able to Turn The Base System On/Off

. Basic System Does Not Respond to Change in Rocker Switch Position.

1

Problem: If a basic (non‐GreenSmart) operating system does not respond to changes in the On/off Switch position, the switch may be defective, there may be a short in wires, or the connectors on the wires may not be making constant contact with the switch terminals. You may notice that the switch works at some times especially when the system is cold, but ot at others especially when the appliance is in use and the switch is hot. n Solution: isconnect the system from electrical power. D

Check the press‐on connectors at the back of the switch. The connectors may have become islodged from the switch terminals. d heck the wire connections at the valve. C If the appliance is an insert and the switch has been relocated to the panel trim, heat may have degraded the insulating material around the connectors causing a disconnect. If you suspect this is the cause, cut off the existing connectors and crimp new connectors on to the xisting wires. e Check the entire length of the wire for obvious breaks or evidence of shorts. Check wires or continuity using a multimeter. Replace wires if a defect is found or suspected. f If there is no obvious visual cause with the connections between the wire connectors and the switch, replace the switch which may have defective internal spring contacts. Order part number 250‐00587.

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General Unit Servicing Questions

General Unit Servicing Issues

Service Issue 1. The IPI and GreenS31 DVI, 33 DVI, DVS GSR, DVL GSR)

mart Gas Inserts are Difficult To Work On. ( We needed to pack a lot of components into our gas inserts. To make access easy, our

ect design has all the components mounted on the underside of the burner tray. Disconnburner rotates out of the insert, the gas flex line, remove some screws and the entire

exposing the components for diagnosis and service.

Service Issue 2. Accent Light Does Not Operate When diagnosing why the accent light is not operating, first consider if the system is the basic IPI system or the upgraded GreenSmart remote system. Some accent light problems an occur in both systems. Others are unique to the upgraded GreenSmart system. c

In all systems, it is critical that the rear log be in the correct position when operating the appliance. The rear log helps shield the accent light circuit from the elevated heat of the ire. f 1. Ensure the unit is getting AC current. Check the electrical receptacle where the unit is lugged in. p Before conducting any further electrical diagnosis, be sure the AC circuit is disconnected by ither pulling the power plug or tripping the circuit breaker. e 2. Check the Bulb. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) Remove the logs to gain access to the Light socket. Remove the bulb and inspect the

37

filament. If there is a gap in the filament, replace the bulb. Order part number 250‐00022 for a pack of 5 bulbs.

. Check the wires and light socket. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) 3 3‐a. Inspect the wires for any obvious breaks or melted wire covering. If you see either f these, replace the wires. (Call for part number) o 3‐b. Check continuity of the light circuit using a multimeter. Disconnect the light wires from the wire harness. With the multimeter set to ohms, place the probes on the wires that go to the light. With a good bulb in the socket, you should ave continuity between the wires. If not, and the bulb is good, replace the light socket. h 4. Conduct a continuity test of the rheostat. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) Disconnect the rheostat. With the multimeter set to ohms. place the probes on the two wires leading to the rheostat. If you do not have continuity, replace the rheostat. Order part number 250‐00303 for DVS or DVL Insert. Order part number 250‐00302 for all other odels. m

. GreenSmart Remote Does Not Turn On the Accent Light. 5 5‐a. If the light does not come on with the GreenSmart remote, first check that the heostat (which has an off position) is turned on. r 5‐b. Verify that the light circuit is good. Plug the light cord into the 120 VAC receptacle in the Fan Control Module (FCM). At this point connect the appliance to power again. If the light works when plugged into the 120 V outlet in the FCM, the FCM is good. IF the light does not work when plugged into the FCM 120 V outlet, but it does work when plugged directly into a 120VAC outlet outside the appliance, then the fuse for the FCM 120 V circuit is likely blown. Disconnect the AC power from the appliance again and remove the FCM. The FCM is held in place with several hook & loop strips on the bottom. Turn the FCM upside down and remove the 6 screws that secure the cover. Remove the cover and locate the two replaceable fuses. See photo below. Check fuses for continuity using a multimeter set to

38

ohms. If either one (or both) is blown, replace with part number 250‐001450 (pack of 2 fuses). If the two fuses are both good, then replace the FCM. Order part number 250‐01458 for a FCM in a fireplace or freestanding stove. Order part number 250‐01754 for a FCM in an nsert. i

Service Issue 3. Cannot Remove the Batteries on the 31 DVI & 33 DVI Inserts

When attempting to remove the battery tray on the 31 DVI and 33 DVI Inserts, the cover for the battery tray hits the back edge of the control concealment cover. Removing the ontrol concealment cover will allow the battery tray to come out for servicing. c This problem has been resolved with a re‐design of the control concealment cover to pivot on spring‐loaded hinge pins. Compressing the springs allows he concealment cover to be asily removed. e

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D. General Installation Questions

. LP Conversions: For LP Conversion Questions

1

2. Fire Presentation: Some have expressed an opinion that the fire Presentation on DVS GSR Insert, erkshire & Tree of Life stoves could be improved. B Corrective Action: We changed the color of the logs in these units for what we feel is a ore realistic appearance. m

We have also produced a video with tips and suggestions on setting a superior looking fire. The suggestions presented are applicable to many models of our products. Go online to www.vimeo.com and look through our video library for our video "Proper Log Embering for Dancing‐Fyre and Ember‐Fyre Burners". 3. Some installers have asked if a wall switch can be wired into a fully upgraded

reenSmart operating system. G

With the upgraded GreenSmart system the remote handset allows one button On/Off operation as well as full control over all mode selections. With the convenience of the emote, a hard wired wall switch is unnecessary. r The GreenSmart Remote comes with a wall mounting cradle that can screwed to the wall at a convenient location. The cradle not only provides a handy storage location, it also allows he remote to operate as an On/Off wall switch. t 4. GreenSmart Remote installation instructions are not included in the GreenSmart

emote kit. R

Installation of the GreenSmart remote varies from one appliance model to another, and specific installation instructions are covered in each model's owner's or installation

40

manual. There is a wiring diagram included with the remote kit that directs the installer to stallation manual for more the owner/in

nformation. i We have since added a basic set of generic installation instructions to the remote kit that is not model specific.

E. General Quality Questions

Some have pointed out a few aspects of the IPI or GreenSmart System that they feel don't meet the expected Travis standard of quality. Here we address these issues.

1. Issue: Wire harness leads are attached to the wrong pin locations at the Molex connectors or the wires pull out of the pins.

1. Corrective action: All our appliances are carefully inspected for proper operation on mart the production line. Accessory items to be installed at the job site, such as the GreenS

Remote, are not individually tested for operation before they are shipped. We have raised our awareness of possible problems with these items and have added additional QC checks. We also notified our suppliers of these components, and asked that they also apply more emphasis on accuracy during their assembly processes.

2. Issue: The wire harness pulls out of the receiver on full Greensmappliances that have been upgraded with the GreenSmart Remote.

art models or on

2. Corrective action: We lengthened the wire harness by 3" to provide adequate n the harness. We assigned part number 250‐01461 to the longer wire harness.

slack i If the connector for the main wiring harness is loose or disconnected from the back of the receiver, the igniter will not spark. For GreenSmart models other than the DVS GSR and DVL GSR follow the suggestions below.

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Solution 1. Check the wire harness connection. 1‐a. Remove the receiver cover from the control panel by removing the two Phillips‐ad screws. he

1‐b. Remove the receiver by removing the 2 Phillips‐head screws. Pull the receiver out f the panel. o 1‐c. Connect the Wire harness if it has come loose. Note that the connector plug has small key guides on the sides to indicate proper alignment. (See Photo) It is possible to force this plug in upside down, in which case the system will not operate and will produce a "2 Beep" audible rror signal. e 1‐d. Test the igniter. If the pilot electrode still does not spark, go to the next roubleshooting step. t 3. Issue: Not Able to Turn The Base System On/Off. If a basic (non‐GreenSmart) operating system does not respond to changes in the On/off Switch position, the switch may be defective, there may be a short in wires, or the connectors on the wires may not be making constant contact with the switch terminals. You may notice that the switch works at some times especially when the system is cold, but not at others especially when the appliance is n use and the switch is hot. i 3. Corrective Action: Click on this link for more information about diagnosing burner witch problems s urner Switch Does Not Work Or Works Intermittently B Problem: If a basic (non‐GreenSmart) operating system does not respond to changes in the On/off Switch position, the switch may be defective, there may be a short in wires, or the connectors on the wires may not be making constant contact with the switch terminals.

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You may notice that the switch works at some times especially when the system is cold, but ot at others especially when the appliance is in use and the switch is hot. n Solution: isconnect the system from electrical power. D

Check the press‐on connectors at the back of the switch. The connectors may have become islodged from the switch terminals. d heck the wire connections at the valve. C If the appliance is an insert and the switch has been relocated to the panel trim, heat may have degraded the insulating material around the connectors causing a disconnect. If you suspect this is the cause, cut off the existing connectors and crimp new connectors on to the xisting wires. e Check the entire length of the wire for obvious breaks or evidence of shorts. Check wires or continuity using a multimeter. Replace wires if a defect is found or suspected. f If there is no obvious visual cause with the connections between the wire connectors and the switch, replace the switch which may have defective internal spring contacts. Order art number 250‐00587. p . Issue Accent Light Is Not Operating 4

4. Corrective Action: Click on this link for more information about diagnosing the accent light When diagnosing why the accent light is not operating, first consider if the system is the basic IPI system or the upgraded GreenSmart remote system. Some accent light problems an occur in both systems. Others are unique to the upgraded GreenSmart system. c In all systems, it is critical that the rear log be in the correct position when operating the

43

appliance. The rear log helps shield the accent light circuit from the elevated heat of the ire. f 1. Ensure the unit is getting AC current. Check the electrical receptacle where the unit is lugged in. p Before conducting any further electrical diagnosis, be sure the AC circuit is disconnected by ither pulling the power plug or tripping the circuit breaker. e 2. Check the Bulb. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) Remove the logs to gain access to the Light socket. Remove the bulb and inspect the filament. If there is a gap in the filament, replace the bulb. Order part number 250‐00022 for a ack of 5 bulbs. p . Check the wires and light socket. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) 3 3‐a. Inspect the wires for any obvious breaks or melted wire covering. If you see either f these, replace the wires. (Call for part number) o 3‐b. Check continuity of the light circuit using a multimeter. Disconnect the light wires from the wire harness. With the multimeter set to ohms, place the probes on the wires that go to the light. With a good bulb in the socket, you should have continuity between the wires. If not, and the bulb is good, replace the light socket. Call for part number) ( 4. Conduct a continuity test of the rheostat. (Both Basic & GreenSmart remote systems) Disconnect the rheostat. With the multimeter set to ohms. place the probes on the two wires leading to the rheostat. If you do not have continuity, replace the rheostat. Order part number 250‐00303 for DVS or DVL Insert. Order part number 250‐00302 for all other odels.

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m

. GreenSmart Remote Does Not Turn On the Accent Light. 5 5‐a. If the light does not come on with the GreenSmart remote, first check that the heostat (which has an off position) is turned on. r 5‐b. Verify that the light circuit is good. Plug the light cord into the 120 VAC receptacle in the Fan Control Module (FCM). At this point connect the appliance to power again. If the light works when plugged into the 120 V outlet in the FCM, the FCM is good. IF the light does not work when plugged into the FCM 120 V outlet, but it does work when plugged directly into a 120VAC outlet outside the appliance, then the fuse for the FCM 120 V circuit is likely blown. Disconnect the AC power from the appliance again and remove the FCM. The FCM is held in place with several hook & loop strips on the bottom. Turn the FCM upside down and remove the 6 screws that secure the cover. Remove the cover and locate the two replaceable fuses. See photo below. Check fuses for continuity using a multimeter set to ohms. If either one (or both) is blown, replace with part number 250‐001450 (pack of 2 fuses). If the two fuses are both good, then replace the FCM. Order part number 250‐01458 for a FCM in a fireplace or freestanding stove. Order part number 250‐01754 for a FCM in an nsert. i

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5

. IssueThe Accent Light Highlights the Rivets at the Back of the Firebox.

5. Corrective Action: We have added a plain black sheet metal rivet shield to cover visible ivets. You may also order an optional set of firebacks that will cover the rivets. r 6

. Issue: Poor Fire Presentation on DVS GSR Insert, Berkshire & Tree of Life Stoves.

6. Corrective Action: We changed the color of the logs in these units for what we feel is a ore realistic appearance. m

We produced a video with tips and suggestions on setting a superior looking fire. The tips presented are applicable to many models of our products. Go online to www.vimeo.com and look through our video library for our video "Proper Log Embering for Dancing‐Fyre nd Ember‐Fyre Burners". a 7. Electrical Tape Around Splices in the Wire Harness. Just prior to production of the first production run of some appliances we added a Molex connector to the wire harness. The electrical tape covers the splices for this connector. The Molex connector prevents direct contact with delicate connectors click on the valve that could break during onversion or servicing. c 7. Corrective Action: Newer wire harnesses eliminate the splices.

SIT Electronic Ignition System

Turn Main BurnerSwitch To ON, Wait

10 Seconds.

DOESTHE PILOT

LIGHT ?NO

YES

1. Check to see if batteries are in properly.

2. Check battery voltage CN1 #1 & #3.3. If voltage is below 4.4 replace batteries. 3. See (1-A) page 5 - ONLY ON BASIC SYSTEM

3. Check AC adapter voltage CN1, #2 & #3.3. Voltage should be 7.3 to 6 volt. Unplug AC, this will 3.3. show battery voltage on GSR system See (1-B) page 5.

4. Check to see if the unit is grounded CN 2 on module.

5. Check voltage to ON/OFF switches on Green wire. You should have 3 volts DC. If no, replace module.

6. Check ON/OFF switch for continuity. No continuity,3. replace switch.

7. Check voltage to Continuous pilot switch. Blue wire7. should have 3 volts DC. If no voltage, replace7. module.

8. Check continuity of continuous pilot switch.8. Continuity, switch is good, No Continuity, replace8. switch.9. Check to see if igniter wire connected to ignition module CN 3.

10. Check continuity of the pilot coil. Continuity good, no continuity bad. Replace valve. See (2-A) page 5

11. Check that the orange wire is connected to the pilot coil.

12. Check voltage at the pilot coil. Should be 5 volts12. DC for 2 sec. After 2 sec. voltage will drop to .5 volts.12. No voltage. Replace module. See (3-A) page 5

13. Check incoming gas pressure.

SEE NEXT PAGE.

START

47

ISSPARK

SEEN ATPILOT

YES

NO


1. Is flame sensor being hit by pilot flame? If not, adjust pilot.

2. Is the flame sensor wire connected to the module and grounded? If not, connect it.

3. Check log placement.

4. Check continuity of sensor. No continuity, replace sensor. If sensor had continuity, replace module.

PILOTIS BURUNINGBUT IGNITORCONTINUES

TOSPARK

NO

YES

1. Is the ignition Module in lockout - 3 Beeps every 2 seconds. Turn off and back on.

2. Check ignition. Is spark seen at the base? If so porcelian is cracked. Replace ignitor.

3. Check ignitor wire at ignition module. Is spark seen there? If so check to make sure insulation tube is down all the way on the wire.


DOESPILOT FLAME

LOOKBLUE?

NO

YES

1. Does the pilot have the right orifice installed?

2. Has the unit been converted to the right fuel? If not convert it.

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DOESTHE

BURNERCOMEON?

NO

Copyright ©2011 Travis Industries, Inc.

1. Flame is too blue = adjust the air shutter closed to make the flame more yellow.

2. Flame is orange and sooty = adjust the air shutter open to make the flame more yellow.

3. Sooty tall flame = was the unit converted to3. LP? Check if the orifices are correct and3. the regulator is the correct one.

4. Short blue flame = check the input gas4. pressure.

1. Check that the green wire is connected to the gas valve main burner coil if not, connect it.

2. Check to see if the module is grounded to the gas valve. If not, connect it. See (1-C) page 5

3. Do continuity test of the main burner coil in the gas valve. Continuity valve good, if no continuity, replace the gas valve. See (2-B) page 5

4. Check voltage to the main burner coil. It should be 5 volts DC for 2 sec. After 2 sec. voltage will drop to .5 volts. If no voltage replace module. See (3-B) page 5

5. Check outgoing gas pressure.

NO

DOESTHE FLAME

LOOKGOOD?

YES

YES

SYSTEM IS WORKINGPROPERLY


GREENSMART™REMOTE

NO

YES

1. Is the remote receiver switch off? If yes, turn it to remote. See (4) page 6

2. Is the remote transmitter turned off? If yes, turn it on. Is the thermostat off? See (5-A) page 6

3. If the thermostat is on, is the set temperature lower than the room temperature. If so, set temperature higher to come on. See (5-B) page 6

4. Does it say Smart on? If yes, is the set temperature to low? If yes, raise set temperature to higher setting the than room temperature. See (5-C) page 6

49

DOESTHE FLAMEMODULATE

HIGH TOLOW?

YES

NO


1. Is the unit hot? There is a snap disk that needs to heat up to turn the fan on.

2. Is there power to the unit?

3. Check fan control module. Is it turned on? See (6-A) page 7

4. Check remote. Is it set for the fan to come on? If not, turn it on. See (5-D) page 6

5. Check to see that the fan is plugged into the fan module where it is marked fan. See (6-B) page 7

6. Check fan snap disk when hot. It should have continuity. If no continuity, replace disk.

7. Check to see if the fan motors are getting power. If no power, check fan module for power out - See (6-C) page 7. If no power out, check fuse inside module. If bad, replace fuse.

8. Check to see if the fan rheostat been by-passed.

9. Check the fan motors for continuity. If no continuity, replace motors.

1. Check remote. Is the “Smart” thermostat on?1. Change the remote thermostat to off or on thermostat1. to make the flame so it will change. See (5-B) page 6

2. Check to see if the Modulating Motor on the gas valve has been installed.

3. Check Stepper Motor for continuity. There are two3. parts to the motor to check continuity between. The3. Yellow and Orange wires resistance should be 26 -3. ohms. Also check continuity between the Black and3. Brown wires. Continuity should be 26 - ohms 3. 3.3. resistance. If no continuity on either circuit replace3. motor.

NO

DOESTHE FAN

COMEON?

YES

DOESTHE

BURNERCOMEON?

SEE NEXT PAGE.


GREENSMART™REMOTE

NO

1. Is there power to the unit?

2. Check the light dimmer. Is it turned on in the unit?

3. Check the remote. Is the light turned on? See (5-D).

4. Check the fan control module. Has the power turned on?

5. Check that the light bulb is good.

6. Check the wiring to see if it is connected correctly.

7. Check wiring at light, are they meted?

8. Check the fan module for the power out. If no power out on the light, check the fuse inside the module - See (6-D). If bad, replace the fuse.If good, replace module.

9. Check light fixture (base).

50

YES

NO


1. Check to see if the unit has a split flow valve. If no split flow valve the back burner will not turn off.

2. Check the remote transmitter. Is it turned on? See (5-D)

3. Check battery voltage. If below 4.4 voltage, replace batteries. See (1-A)

4. Check that the wires to the split flow valve are connected.

DOESTHE BACKBURNERGO ON &

OFF?

YES

DOTHE LIGHTS

COMEON?

SYSTEM IS WORKINGPROPERLY


51Copyright © 2011 Travis Industries, Inc.

(1.) Voltage Testing

(2.) Continuity Testing Gas Valve

(3.) Voltage Testing Gas Valve1. Pilot Coils Side 2. Main Coil Side

(A) Pilot

(B) Main

(C)

(A)BatteryVoltage

(B)AC Adapter

Voltage

(1)(3) (2)(3)

(A) (B)

Set ToDCV

Set ToDCV

7.36.0

Set ToOHMS

000

000

Set ToDCV



4. Receiver

5. Transmitter

REMOTEON

OFF

C

SMART AB

D



6. Testing Fan Control Module

Programming Remote

D

CB

AOUTLETANALIZER



Wiring - Basic GreenSmart™

56Copyright © 3/5/2011 - Travis Industries Certified Factory Training Program

Wiring - Upgrade Wiring Harness


W13

W12

W7

W6

Wiring - Full GreenSmart™ (Inserts)


W10

W15

GreenSmart Test

1. What does “IPI” stand for?

Intermittent Pilot Ignition

2. On fireplaces/stoves, the Fan Control module is part of the basic GreenSmart system?

a. True

b. False, it is only part of a GreenSmart system with a remote.

3. The “comfort control” is only part of a fully upgraded GreenSmart appliance.

a. True

b. False, it is part of any GreenSmart fireplace (base or upgraded).

4. Will the LED control panel lighting work during a power outage? Why?

Yes, because it is powered by a 9 volt battery.

5. On a base GreenSmart appliance, how do you turn the secondary burner on or off?

By pressing the “comfort control” switch on or off.

6. On a base Green Smart appliance, the batteries are only for back-up during a power

outage?

a. True

b. False, they not only work for back-up operation. They are also the only source of

power to the “comfort control” valve. Without batteries in a base system, you

cannot turn the secondary burner on or off.

7. Continuous pilot can be turned on by pressing the mode and up button at the same

time?

a. True

b. False, you must use the pilot switch on the control panel.

8. What is not changed when installing the GreenSmart Remote?

a. Valve regulator

b. Burner module

c. Wire harness

d. Battery pack

9. How many flame settings are there with the GreenSmart remote?

a. 3

b. 4

c. 6

d. 9

10. How many levels does the fan have when using the GreenSmart Remote system?

a. 3

b. 4

c. 6

d. 9

11. How many functions does the mode button on the remote, control?

a. 1

b. 2

c. 3

d. 4

12. When the thermostat says “off”, why is the flame still on?

The “off” is next to the thermostat symbol, which indicates that the thermostat is off and

the stove is in “manual” mode.

13. When in the smart thermostat mode the flames modulate automatically. Why?

While in smart thermostat, the transmitter will control the burner to achieve the target temperature. Flame height will be adjusted up or down to allow operation without turning the burner on and off (also called “smart modulation).

14. You can control the intensity of the Accent light with the remote?

a. True

b. False, you must use the rheostat/dimmer on the control panel.

15. By looking at the transmitter you can see what is controllable because the

corresponding icons will be displayed?

a. True

b. False

16. If the unit is in lock out (3 beeps every few seconds). How do you reset the unit?

a. Remove the batteries

b. Turn the main burner switch off then back on

c. Push the reset button

d. None of the above

17. How is the blower controlled during a power outage?

a. The remote will still control the blower since it will run on batteries

b. The unit will not work until the power is restored

c. All functions will work except the blower and accent light until power is restored

d. None of the above

18. Can you install a wall thermostat on a fully upgraded GreenSmart appliance?

a. Yes

b. No, the remote is the thermostat.

19. The flame adjustment does not work when the remote is in “smart” thermostat. Why?

When in “smart” mode, the fireplace controls flame modulation to help maintain a

constant room temperature.

20. How do you synchronize the remote?

You press the “prg” button on the receiver once and then press the power button on the

remote.

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