1 Triburg PG Fashion Merchandising 2011-2013 Chapter 1: Introduction 1.1. Overview of the Project In Today’s competitive environment most of the organisations are aiming at reducing the cost, and providing the product at competitive price with best of the quality to their customers. Thus, unless and until the Vendor supplies the raw material at competitive price and of good quality it is not possible for the organisation to achieve their goals. Thus, Vendor Analysis is found to be very crucial in achieving the Objectives of Organization. A success of the firm largely depends upon how effectively and efficiently it serves existing and prospective customers, because it is only the sales which bring revenue to the firm. The management of the firm can be efficient and control on the present and future actions of the firm. World economy is moving fast and so are all buying agencies and exporters. To be the best and to be more completive, servicing the final consumer in terms of product quality/pricing/timing is really essential for buying agency like Triburg, it’s really important to be more pro-active and think beyond others imagination and for you need to take a deep dive, dirty your hands with your business partners, your vendors/ product manufacturers. To upgrading degrading manufacturers and to increase the product depth/width for developed vendors, so analysing the vendors for growth is essential move and we got move every step carefully The high quality of vendor’s product and on time is an important factor to the success of the company’s quality control function. Therefore the quality and time commitment of vendors is essential. To achieve the company’s goals through the quality assurance/quality control function, it is important to issue instructions and procedures for the evaluation, approval and auditing of incoming-material from suppliers or manufacturers. Megha Shree | DFMP11462
Transcript
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TriburgPG Fashion Merchandising
2011-2013
Chapter 1: Introduction
1.1. Overview of the Project
In Today’s competitive environment most of the organisations are aiming at reducing the cost, and providing the product at competitive price with best of the quality to their customers. Thus, unless and until the Vendor supplies the raw material at competitive price and of good quality it is not possible for the organisation to achieve their goals. Thus, Vendor Analysis is found to be very crucial in achieving the Objectives of Organization. A success of the firm largely depends upon how effectively and efficiently it serves existing and prospective customers, because it is only the sales which bring revenue to the firm. The management of the firm can be efficient and control on the present and future actions of the firm.World economy is moving fast and so are all buying agencies and exporters. To be the best and to be more completive, servicing the final consumer in terms of product quality/pricing/timing is really essential for buying agency like Triburg, it’s really important to be more pro-active and think beyond others imagination and for you need to take a deep dive, dirty your hands with your business partners, your vendors/ product manufacturers. To upgrading degrading manufacturers and to increase the product depth/width for developed vendors, so analysing the vendors for growth is essential move and we got move every step carefully
The high quality of vendor’s product and on time is an important factor to the success of the company’s quality control function. Therefore the quality and time commitment of vendors is essential. To achieve the company’s goals through the quality assurance/quality control function, it is important to issue instructions and procedures for the evaluation, approval and auditing of incoming-material from suppliers or manufacturers.
The evaluation of the quality and time program is a joint vendor-buying house activity, and when properly accomplished, is mutually beneficial for all parties concerned. The vendor evaluates his quality program in order to be sure that the program is accomplishing its intended functions effectively and economically. The buying house however evaluates his vendor’s quality program in order to be sure that his vendor is capable of producing the desired quality product. In addition to that, may establish a ranking system by providing a numerical value. This value, which will be assigned to each vendor, should have recognition and can be used as the basis of the buying house and vendor comparisons within the buying house.
The buying house may establish a comprehensive audit program covering all phases of plant design, procurement, construction and operation, either within the organisational structure, or by contractual requirements. i.e specified in the purchaser order to audit the vendor’s facilities. The main objective of the quality audits and evaluation is to assure program requirements.
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Customers all over the world are becoming more informed and thus, more aware and choosy. They are now more selective in terms of price and quality. It is necessary for the buyer to provide products of the best quality at the required time and at a competitive price, in order to retain customers. Hence the buyers and vendors find it easier and in their best interests to work closely with each other. In this way, the vendor can be better informed about what the actual preferences of the ultimate customer are.
Vendors are selected on the basis of their performance relating to meeting of deadlines, the order they have handled the rapport they developed in the market, their lead time, the no. Of machines they have, the man power, the buyer they are currently dealing with, the financial position of the vendor, the credit period they can give.
The study is on evaluating vendors on these parameters:
Costing Product development Merchandising management On time delivery Quality
1.2.Statement of problem
Most of the buying houses conduct a vendor evaluation at the time of vendor selection or at the time of audit but vendor evaluation should be conducted after a fixed interval of time so that it keeps us updating about our vendor performance and Vendor Evaluation will enable you to choose the most appropriate vendor for a specific requirement, and supports us in the continuous monitoring of existing supply relationships.
A Vendor represents an extension of buyer’s manufacturing or operating capacity. Not only must the quality of supplier’s product should match the specifications of the buyer, but his delivery performance also must conform to the buyer’s Manufacturing Schedule which has gain much importance.In Today’s competitive environment most of the Organizations are aiming atreducing the cost, and providing the product at competitive price with best of the quality to their customer. Thus, unless and until Vendors supply the Raw Material at competitive price and of good quality it is not possible for the Organization to achieve their goals. Thus, Vendor Analysis is found to be very crucial in achieving the Objectives of Organization.
1.3.Objectives:
The main objectives are:
To understand the process of auditing the Vendors in buying office To evaluate the performance of different Vendor using Vendors Rating methods
1.4.Scope and limitations:
The scope of the study is limited to the 5 factories and the previous TNA Reports from the buying house.
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1.5.About The Company
1.5.1. History of the Company
In 1979, when two young technocrats decided to give a new meaning to Apparel sourcing South Asia, they targeted their entrepreneurial drive at becoming a market leading With their hands-on approach, a personal commitment to responsibility, meeting customer needs proactively and delivering world-class quality on time, that vision became a They grew from strength to strength, picking and training their growing team with basic values. Their motto is the Mission statement which is epitomized in all our 3 offices (Dubai, Sri Lanka & India), and our 22 branch & Liaison offices spread over the United States.The fact that we have grown to over US$ 225 million in sales and that we have 300 young professional associates, is a proof of our credibility and an assurance that 2 decades have been well invested. Our commitment to business integrity and win-win associations has brought us a galaxy of stars - our Customers, Vendors and Suppliers - whose businesses we have enriched and who are witnesses to our claims. In synch with our industry-leading partners, we remain alert to the constantly changing needs of the market and the customer. Applying international standards to domestic ground realities and finding the winning equation is our forte.Founded- 1980
Business activities:Triburg is the number one buying office in the Indian sub-continent with year of experience in the Indian sub-continent with over 29 years of experience in the sourcing business. Triburg is the only company in india with expertise in providing a complete product range in textile apparel, leather apparel, shoes, bag and home products including soft lines and hard lines.
A one stop shop for customers:From product development, raw material sourcing, production planning and management, quality assurance, export documentation to shipping consolidate, Triburg provides the convenience of one-stop-shop for the customers and organizes for them.
A coordinated global network:TRIBURG has 3 offices (Dubai, Sri Lanka & India), and our 22 branch & Liaison offices spread over Asia & the United States.Triburg annually sources 29 million garments from over extensive vendor base of over 85 factories with substantial quota holding in all categories. We are recognized leaders in leather garments and goods with an extensive resource base for the home area.Operating through 16 offices which are primarily servicing the US markets and actively stepping up presence in Europe, Triburg is one of the Asia’s leading textile and leather sourcing house.1.5.2. Role of Merchandiser in Triburg:
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Role of merchandiser in Triburg is very important. Merchant plays a major role in the whole process, merchant is the person who is responsible for each and every process after getting the art work, style sheet CAD and other details about the fabric development, merchant is the person who decide about each and every thing.
Work of merchant can be divided into two parts:
1. Sampling2. Bulk order production
Sampling process is very important because the confirmation of the bulk order depends upon the success of the sampling, so sampling needs to be done very carefully by the merchant.
The moment merchant gets art work, style sheet, starts planning that how to proceed the work, the merchant receive calendar, design package, style sheet, CAD from the buyer through U.S office from the point the role of the merchant starts then merchant studies the style sheet and all the other details available, like fabric details, dying details, embroidery, washing, special kind of finishing, etc
Then merchant decide that where the bulk production should done (Vendor) the decision of the fabric development is taken with the fabric department head (vice president fabrics)
Both the person decides the Vendor, after the deep analysis of the fabric quality, count, construction etc. Once it‘s decided then merchant sends the copy of the CAD to the decided regional office for the development.
Mean while merchant prepare WIP sheet (WORK IN PROGRESS) for their reference.
In the WIP sheet merchant mention all the detail:
Lable Style no. Color Fit Trims Quality/Fabrication Wash
Buyer comments Finishes Date of delivery Approvals Approval due Finishing start Stitching start
It also helps the merchandiser to have control over the process properly.After getting the developed desk loom merchant, send the development desk loom to the buyer after reviewing it for the approval, then yarn dips approval is developed for the pattern and quality reference after getting approval on the developed desk loom merchant proceed development for the proto (proto is development basically for the approval of fit, in Triburg merchants try to develop the proto in the same fabric, same color and same pattern. Mean while merchant also proceed for the sale sample too the quality of the sale sample is being 30-50, so on the basis of the requirement merchant place the order for the yardage, trims, and other things required.
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For their reference merchant make greed so that they can update themselves on the daily basis:
Style no. Factory Block(fit) Wash Color combo
SSY ready date Sale sample EX- India Quantity required Comments
And they always keeps updating themselves on the daily basis by entering the daily report on WIP sheet (work in progress).
They after reviewing with technician and color cad, send proto sample to the buyer for the fit approval. If any rectification is to be done then buyer sends all the required changes to the merchant through mail or by courier if required. At the same time merchant do costing for the buyer for each style separately with all the details of cost of fabric, trims, wash, and hanger, special was, quota, and other special things as per requirement.
Costing is done by the merchant. This part is very important because approval of the bulk order is directly depends upon the price given by the buyer.
When the sales man sample gets ready, merchant sends the sample to the buyer, then after seeing the performance of the style in the market buyer select the styles which has to proceed and put the order for the bulk.
Then second part of the merchant work starts.
From this stage merchant starts working for the bulk order, here merchant work on the T & A plan (time and action). Merchants do the backward planning according to the shipment date EX- India. Merchant place the bulk order for the fabric trims and then decides when to send the fit sample, trims and fabric for final approval etc. Merchant is always there when PCD (Plan Cut Date) is decided. Once the production starts then merchant always keep updating buyer about the status of the production. In between that merchant keep sending the samples to the buyer like TOP sample etc.
When the final production is over, the merchant send the shipment under his/her supervision along with the required document.
Quality System:
Triburg keep control over the production process and keep a sharp eye on the production process, right from the style sheet to the shipment.
To achieve the dual goal of the timely production &the quality product, Triburg timely do the following things.
R & D pool Sampling follow up
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1st pp meeting Sample presentation to the buyer Technical R& D at sampling stage Fabric inspection Pre- production meeting Production planning report Production status report Inline monitoring report Final inspection report Random checking before shipment
R&D pool: On receipt of the tech pack the QA and technician evaluate the tech pack, if any clarification is required are forwarded to the buyer. The entire required are forwarded to the buyer. All technical details associated with the product are discussed and noted are made. This information is forwarded to the factory that in turn evaluates the tech pack with the Triburg QA and technician. All analysis conducted are included into the Triburg R& D check list.
Sampling follow up: This is to ensure that timely delivery of samples can be executed. Follow up is conducted along the different stages of sampling to ensure that samples are executed on time.
First pp meeting: This meeting is conducted as soon as order is confirmed fabric and trims standards, thread, needles; any value addition is discussed in detail. In addition to this various fabric and trim flow are also discussed, key personals attending this meeting from the factory are merchandise manager, trim head, QA persona.
Sample quality report: Every sample sent to the buyer along with review sheet, measurement sheet and patterns.
Technical R&D at sampling stage: If any production problem is seen or any improvement is being made in the construction, then a mock of the improved construction is sent to the buyers for further details.
Fabric inspection: 4 point system is used for fabric inspection; any order less than 200 yards is inspected 1000/0. The process of inspection is being done by QA person of Triburg only to avoid any delay due to fabric defect at the time of bulk production
Pre- production meeting: conducted immediately after order confirmation. Pre production meeting are conducted with the factory management to decide how many machine, how many line, how many days, and other things related to quality issue
Production planning report: production planning is discussed during pre production meeting, here they plan for cutting, sewing, washing, finishing and packing.
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Production control chart: the QA stationed in the factory monitors the production on a very close bases and this is compared with the original planning of production to see is there any slides or back logs, the reason are devaluated and immediate action is been taken so that original delivery date can be maintained.
Production status report: this report gives a consolidated status of the order and is monitored on the daily basis.
Inline quality report: inline reports are filled by the on-station QA and the reports are evaluated in detail, every problem-highlighted in the report also has to list the reasons that cause the problem and the action that has been taken to short it out.
Final inspection reports: final inspection are conducted on AQL 2.5 for all vintage garments and AQL 4.0 for the others
The QA manger and concerned merchandiser is present during the final audit.
These systems are monitored closely and when ever any scope for improvement is detected, the system is upgraded.
1.5.3. Vendor Selection & Compliance
This is the area where Triburg has the edge over the buying houses vendors are selected and then evaluated in a very systematic way.
First of all, vendor are selected on the basis of their performance relating to meeting of deadlines, the order they have handled the rapport they have developed in the market, their lead time, the no. Of machines they have, the man power, the buyer they are currently dealing with, the financial position of the vendor, the credit period they can give.
Once the list of the vendor has been prepared they are been evaluated according to the pre defined format of the Triburg.
Quality Basis Compliance Basis
On the quality basis evaluation is done as per A & B. A deals with the vendor profile and B deals with the factory performance evaluation.
On the compliance basis, evaluation is done as per part C & D. Part C deals with the compliance audit and part D deals with the corrective action plan.
Part A (Vendor Profile)
1. Vendor information 2. Credit reference3. Management personal 4. Physical facilities
1. Vendor information 2. Piece good handling and processing3. Cutting4. Material utilization5. Sewing6. Finishing7. Quality control8. Workmanship audit current product9. Overall rating for the current product10. Plan overall rating11. Recommendation of the product to produce.12. Comments( if any)
When part A & B have been filled by the audit and compliance department then compliance executive goes for evaluation. They check for C &D.
Part C- divided into few parts contain the information about the compliance of the factory.
1. Health & safety2. Payroll3. Labour4. Minimum age5. Social benefit6. Workman interview summary
Part D- Corrective action plan deals with the area that are not compliant and which requires corrective measures to be undertaken in order to make factory compliance.
Each evaluation is valid for the period of one year.
After the vendor has fulfilled the requirement of evaluation, the order is given to the factory.
Then comes to the order process flow
1.5.4.Vendor Evaluation in Triburg
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TRIBURG is sourcing agent for Major brands in India/Egypt /Bangladesh/ Jordan, though Triburg is also evaluated every year based on the performance of sourcing faculties.
Figure-3-1
Triburg is middle man and it has to ensure that there no weak link in the supply chain, which might can affect the service or quality level and they do it by evaluating their vendor through year around continual process which includes appraisals of various aspects of business including capacity, financials, quality assurance, organizational structure and processes and performance of all vendors. Based on the information obtained via the evaluation, vendor is scored and either approved or not approved as one from whom to procure materials or services. Triburg is maintaining an approved factory list (AFL) to which a qualified vendor is then added. If rejected the vendor is generally not made available to the assessing company's procurement team. Once approved, a vendor may be revaluated on a periodic, often annual, basis. The ongoing process is defined as Vendor performance management
The benefits typically include sourcing from vendors that provide high standards of product and service levels whilst offering sufficient capacity and business stability. The process of evaluating performance can motivate vendors to improve their performance. Protecting the supply chain through effective sourcing is a key task for an agent like Triburg and to secure their customer. Triburg ensures that approved vendor is
• Technically sound• Managerially competent• Adequately resourced• Financially stable• Competitive (often in terms of price and availability)• Reliable• Provides goods of suitable quality• Environmentally/Ethically soundWhile vendor evaluation should be seen as a critical process it is not without problems. Evaluation can be resource intensive and can create a bottleneck between the vendor and buyer this is especially true where evaluation data is difficult to obtain. They involved the QA dept and technical dept for getting information from vendors. Another crucial aspect is that an effective process is required to capture new vendors (prior to an order being raised) and to prevent use prior to appraisal.
Chapter-2 Literature Review
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1.6.Changing Dynamics of the Fashion Industry
The fashion apparel industry has significantly evolved, particularly over the last 20years, when the boundaries of the industry started to expand (Ainamo,1999). The changing dynamics of the fashion industry since then, such as the fading of mass production, increase in number of fashion seasons, and modified structural characteristics in the supply chain have forced retailers to desire low cost flexibility in design, quality, delivery and speed to market (Doyle, Moor and Morgan, 2006). In addition to speed to market and design, marketing and capital investment have also been identified as the driving forces of competitiveness in the fashion apparel industry. (Franks, 2000) suggested ‘sense and respond’ as the key strategy to maintain a profitable position in the increasingly dynamic and demanding market. A key defining characteristic of rapid responsiveness and greater flexibility, in this context, is to maintain closer relationships between suppliers and buyers (Wheelright and Clark, 1992).Total quality control by (A.V Feigenbaum,n.d) . He lists nine basic areas that directly influence the quality of products and services, and named as the “9 M’s” These 9 M’s are:
1. Market2. Money3. Management4. Men5. Materials6. Motivation7. Machines and mechanization8. Modern information methods9. Mounting product requirement
Above shows the four jobs of product control; these are new design control, incoming materials control, product control, and special process studies.
The organisation patterns of particular types of manufacturing plant plays an important role in the effectiveness of the quality control function. (Enrick, 1992) Described these patterns as follows:
1. Advisory organization: where inspectors, inspection supervisors and other inspection specialist are organized ad process advisors to production and engineering, without any authority.
2. Departmentalization organisation: where definite duties and authorities are established in the form of an inspection and quality control department
3. Top management function: where quality control and vendor evaluation is made as a functional part of top management. A quality chief is placed in a position similar to that of a controller.
The strategic importance of vendor selection and subsequent assessment is well established in the literature of business purchasing, beginning with the seminal work on vendor selection and evaluation criteria published in (Weber, 1966). Significant research continues to be done on this topic in part because of its particular relevance to manufacturers in a just-in-time
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environment where vendor price, quality and delivery are key performance criteria. There are even numerous trade journals and scholarly journals denoted to vendor relations and performance evaluation. Among them are supply chain management, material management and distribution, journal of supply chain management, and Summit( a Canadian magazine about public sector purchasing)
(Weber, 1966) describes the three common and flawed current approaches to vendor evaluation. First is the “categorical or key factor rating methods” in which potential vendors are assigned subjective, largely initiative, rating based on the evaluator’s judgment and experience? A second current method “cost-ratio method” which requires a comprehensive, precise cost-accounting system to determine the buyer’s internal operating costs associated with the vendor’s quality, delivery, and services. The third common approach, the linear average or weighted-point method,” modifies the first methods by providing numerical weights to the subjective evaluation criteria.
1.6.1.Vendor evaluation:
There are at least three different types of vendor evaluation, these are: informal use of records, after the fact evaluation, and before the fact designed.
1. Informal use of records: gathering data from many sources such as journals, diaries, log books, or financial records, and knowing what happened in the past allow one to evaluation an event in order to make better decisions for the future.
2. After the fact evaluation: after an event has occurred, when a manger may ask? What happened? How did it happen? Why did it succeed? Or why did it fail? How well did it do? Answer to such questions normally provides data for decisions and future planning after an event has been completed.
3. Before the fact designed, evaluation: this type occurs when the evaluator plans and starts gathering data early in the history of the project. Evaluation vendor capabilities can be an example of this type.
(Frank Caplan, n.d) describes the vendor surveys and capability determination as important tasks to the purchaser’s organization to determine, in advance, the ability of the vendor to produce quality products on schedule. When the material needed for production arrives late or is reject able for quality reasons, it is too late to find out that the vendor is incapable of doing the job satisfactorily.
1.6.2.Vendor rating and certification:
The vendor rating system which is used worldwide by many companies is explained by (Feigenbaum, n.d) as a technique that provides vendor-to-vendor assessment, whereby each vendor is measured against another specific vendor or group of vendor or group of vendors for price, quality and delivery. Rating results are reported quarterly, and used to determine all future business activities with the vendor
There are different types of vendor rating established to fit the varying needs of plants and companies.
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1.6.3.Quality audit:
Quality audit is evaluation to verify the effectiveness of the quality system, and to determine the degree to which objectives are being achieved. There are several different considerations in the establishment of quality audits to meet different quality program objectives such as:
Quality purpose: including audits that may be directed to product, process, and specific areas such as measurements, producers, and quality system itself.
Quality audit performance: including audits that may be performed by a single process controller, or a specific person from the quality Assaurance, and others
Audit frequency: such as daily, weekly, monthly, quarterly on predetermined basis, or those without advance notice.
Quality audit reporting and documentation: including that are quantitatively measured in index numbers or reported in a summary document with both quantitative and qualitative data, measured in terms of comparative trends showing improvement or deterioration, of performance standards.
Audit corrective action: including corrective actions explicitly identified by product, area, process, time, schedule and follow up responsibility.
Chapter-3 Research Methodology
1.1.Research Methods:
It is of utmost importance that the co-operation between buying house and Vendor is based on common values and that the improvement work is focused at all times. The Vendor
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Evaluation is a way to point at the requirements and values, which are put on the Vendor’s development. By a close co-operation and common processes for target setting (quality, delivery, productivity etc.) and suited measuring systems the common competitive strength of the Buying house – Vendor will be enhanced. This idea of the vendor evaluation is to give a fair idea of how to evaluate vendor and rate them, the basis for rewarding them and retaining them. This Vendor evaluation rating will help Triburg in establishing a process for supplier selection and continuous evaluation of the Vendors helping them in establishing a responsive and superior network of Vendors with respect to the Triburg’s objective and. Develop a consolidated data to select and rate the best Vendor from a group of qualified vendors will help to get the current status of a current Vendor. The evaluation is made up of a points score which is awarded to the vendor on the basis of several criteria (in the standard system, they are price, quality, delivery reliability, service and external service), which can then be divided into sub criteria. The scores for the criteria can be entered manually or they can be determined by the system on the basis of existing data, either automatically or semi-automatically so can use the criteria provided in the standard system.
1.2.Research Objective: To understand the process of auditing the Vendors in buying office To evaluate the performance of different Vendors using Vendor Rating method. Develop a Vendor Rating System
1.3.Research Design: Research Design is of 3 types: Exploratory: Vendor’s plays a key role in a company’s success, having a formalized system in place to track and evaluate vendor performance is essential to the smooth operation and profitability of the company.
Buying Houses evaluate their vendor on a regular basis- monthly, quarterly and or annually. Considerations including size of the company, number of certification, quality management system, financial stability and complaint history. Buying houses regularly audit there vendor to evaluate the performance of the vendor’s, Greenblatt (n.d) ‘including percentages of on-time performance, number of times they received a quality part or product, and how quickly the vendor responded to requests for quotes.
Triburg conduct a vendor evaluation at the time of vendor selection but vendor evaluation should be conducted after a fixed interval of time so that it keeps us updating about our vendor performance and Vendor Evaluation will enable us to choose the most appropriate vendor for a specific requirement, and supports us in the continuous monitoring of existing supply relationships. We can conduct a vendor evaluation by collecting data from the previous shipping records or from the software (TNA) from where we will get the document for the deliveries and on-time shipping or delay of shipping or cancelation of styles because of merchandise management or delay in production. Then we will rate the vendors with the help of available data and each vendor is measured against another specific vendor or group of vendor or group of vendors for price, quality and delivery. Rating results are reported quarterly, and used to determine all future business activities with the vendor.
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Descriptive: In descriptive design we are auditing five vendors presently working with (Theme, Dassan, Shri Lakshmi, Gupta Exim, RR Trends). With the help of QA, we will be evaluating them by getting audit forms filled by senior QA on five parameters ( Costing, Product Development, Merchandising Management, On-Time Delivery, Quality).
1.4. Data Collection Methods: There are two types of data collection methods:
Primary Data· InterviewsThe following persons were interviewed for the purpose1. Senior Merchandisers2. Quality Managers ObservationsThe data flow is observed in merchandise department, stores and quality assurance department. It is verified and assured that the data required for the proposed system is available or can be extracted from the existing, documents.
Secondary Data· Accessing the company documents.To propose a system the availability of the relevant data is confirmed by accessing the company’s documents. These documents would be:
TNA documents Purchase Order Audit Report Inspection Report Approved Vendor List (AVL)
The focus of the objective is on senior merchants and QA’s, therefore for sample size, have selected all 4 senior merchants and 2 QA’s of my team. The target sample
Research objectives
Research design
Data collecion methods
Sample size
Sample frame
Sampling unit
To understand the process of evaluating the vendors in buying office
Exploratory
Primary (Interview) (QA & Sr.. Merchants)
6 TriburgQA
&Senior Merchants
To evaluate the performance of
DescriptivePrimary
(Inspection Report & Questionnaire)
5Theme
Delhi & GurgaonGupta
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different vendor using vendors rating methods.
Exim
RR trends
Shri Laxmi
Dassan
Secondary (Internet, Articles,
Journals)
1.5. Sample Size: Its the size with which the research is conducted as the number of interviews is 6
1.6. 2 Sample frame: Its the factories and office where the research is conducted.
Sampling Frame are 5 vendors (Theme, Gupta Exim, Dassan, RR trends, Shri Laxmi), we are conducting a research on those factory because presently working with those factories.
1.7.Research Grid
2. Table 3-1
Table 3-1
1. Chapter 4-Results and analysis
2.1.Research Objective 1.
To understand the process of auditing the Vendors in buying office
The parameters on which the Triburg audits their vendors.
1. Pre-production- Preparation of a style files (Tech pack, po, trim card, approved fabric, testing etc.) Sealer sample with documentation of merchandising sample Documentation of QA pre-production meeting with factory staff Development of follow up action.
2. Preparation- Confirm style approved for production Confirm raw material and garment testing complete and approved/acceptable Confirm approved production sample is on-site
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3. Pattern- Document history (pattern origination from TJX block, existing style or
measurement) Inspect patterns to confirm number of pieces, sizing and accuracy of template/guide.
4. Marker- Inspect marker section to- confirm cut and match direction against production spec
pack and/or brand standards book, confirm number of sizes marked against P.O., confirm cut plan quantity against P.O plus seconds allowance
5. Fabric inspection- Inspect and document all fabric inspection- inspect fabric to 4-point system with
penalty assigned according to the size and significance of the defect Follow fabric sampling assigned by Triburg.
6. Spreading- Inspect spread/lay up to- verify sequence of dye lot/fabric rolls Confirm fabric direction (nap up/nap down) Confirm ply height against standard.
7. Cutting Ensure bundle number accuracy Verify top, middle and bottom ply against pattern for sizing, even cuts and no jagged
edgesIf fallout is greater than 5% inspect 100% of that lay.
8. Sewing inspect every bundle at key operations in- component/small parts, sub-assembly,
Assembly, Put randomly from each bundle to- ensure accurate and consistent stitch, seams,
construction and label & trim verify compliance to specifications are within tolerance and uniformity to shape.
Verify panel-to panel shade and color consistency.If fallout is greater than 5% inspect 100%.
9. Finishing/Final Trimming Inspect and measure 4 units of every bundle- put units randomly, ensure all colors
and sizes represented, inspect for visual and construction defects, confirm dry and wet processing, pressing, folding and packaging meet specification
Measure a minimum of 1 unit, for all points of measure and balance of minimum 3 units for critical points of measure.
10. Re-Screen/Repair Garment in process needs to be unstitched and repaired Completed garment need to follow as specified in the Tech pack.
11. Measurement Measure 1 garment per size foe all points of measure. Measure only critical points on the balance (additional points of measure may be
required on a per style basis by brand. (as per TJX measurement method)
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12. Visual/ construction Inspect every garment in sample for accurate and consistent stitch, seams and
construction Use NPG imperfect/ defect 2 zones for determining acceptability of potential defects.
13. Final Audit
Final audit conducted at 2.5 AQL- Level11 Normal inspections, re-audit conducted 2.5 AQL- level11
Final audit is required for every P.O.
Final audit is conducted when 100% shipment is packed, including all colors and sizes.
All colors and sizes must be represented.
Pull units randomly from top, middle and bottom of carton.
In final inspection
1. Observe styles2. Observe auditor ratio to determine size/ color breakdown3. Factory need to open 30% of cartons versus maximum of 3 pieces/carton4. Observe opening additional cartons to get ratio and random selection of samples5. Observe carton audit as pulling samples-check quantity and color
Observe approved sample, style folder(spec, trim card, order, packing slip)
6. Observe comparing 1st garment against approved sample and spec.
Factory Observation
During the audit, Triburg inspects the production flow in factory on the above mentioned parameters and gave a detailed report of each process in the factory.
Triburg Observation
In Triburg Observation, Triburg gave the feedback for the each process to the factory.
2.1.1. Scoring:
After the auditing Triburg gave individual score to the process they audited and then calculate them and gave the total score and with the help of score matrix they gave the comments whether it’s acceptable or not, and if not then factory needs to improve.
To evaluate the performance of different Vendors using Vendor Rating method
Observation: In the below table the 5 different vendors are named as:
V1- Theme (Okhla)
V2- Dassan (Gurgaon)
V3- Shri Laxmi( Noida)
V4- Gupta Exim( Gurgaon)
V5- RR Trends (Gurgaon)
For evaluating the above 5 vendors on the below selected parameters of a specific buyer (TK &TJ MAXX)
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A checklist of the subjected parameters has been prepared to evaluate the particular area. These checklists have been prepared again by interacting with industry people and listing the key elements in that area. This was then allotted points based on the evaluation of that particular area (which is being carried out by observation study of different export houses). Thereafter a final formula was reached at which was the conglomeration of all the areas whether objective or subjected. The numerical figures then reached would be a clear indicator of vendor’s capability on the whole and also the area.
Following systematic representation will further clarify things:
7 Each machine have a visible maintenance log/card on it
6 5 4 4 5
8 Workers wearing appropriate clothing and shoes on the production floor
6 5 5 4 4
Total Score 42 32 39 31 36Table 4-3
(TriburgInspectionReport)
Quality: A systematic approach to monitor Supplier’s quality performance. Which will creates a reliable database of information, which will assist in identifying trends and priority plans for quality improvement objectives. (Debra L. Stubbings, 1999) The components of the Quality segment are:-
Quality Control Systems
Item No Requirement V1 V2 V3 V4 V5
1Approved Quality Manual, or other documented QC procedures?
6 5 3 4 4
2Dedicated members of staff responsible for QA/QC within the factory
5 6 3 4 5
3Quality Representative have sufficient authority to control quality and stop production.
5 6 6 4 2
4Trained QC staff
5 4 5 5 6
5 Production staff, or inspectors responsible for checking quality at each
4 4 5 5 6
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station and on all shifts
6Qc staff aware of and using TJX standards
6 4 4 4 5
7Detailed Quality reports reflect that the products are properly checked
5 5 5 4 3
8Evidence that QC results are used to initiate meaningful corrective and preventative action
4 6 5 6 5
9Qc records available for review and retained for an appropriate length of time
4 5 6 3 4
Total Score 44 45 42 39 40Table-4-4
(Triburg Inspection Report)
In Process Quality Control:
In Process Quality ControlItem No Requirement V1 V2 V3 V4 V5
1Sampling levels for inspections adequate at each production stage, e.g. random, 100% or AQL sample plan
5 4 5 3 4
2Batches kept separate at each stage to avoid mixing of shades, sizes ect.
6 5 4 3 4
3Knitted panels light inspected before linking
6 2 3 6 5
4Cut panels inspected before sewing in factory
4 6 3 5 4
5Panels numbered by ticketing to control batches
4 6 6 5 5
6 In-line inspection for measurement 4 5 4 4 5
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7Adequate procedures for clearly separating and identifying accepted or rejected product in-line
5 3 5 5 5
8
Line patrols by quality controllers or other means to monitor the compliance of the product to meet quality requirements
6 5 5 5 4
9Inspected components at each stage traceable to individual QC staff
5 4 7 6 5
10QC reports maintained to show the quality status of each inspected batch
5 4 5 5 4
11The inspection defects recorded, analyzed, and monitored to drive continous improvement
4 3 4 4 4
Total Score 54 47 51 51 49Table 4-5
(Triburg Inspection Report)
Baby wear product specific: There are few levels that should be checked before giving vendors the order for baby wear.
2Clean overall/uniforms given to the operators to wear
4 3 6 5 3
3The factory routinely test metal component strenght and suitability for end sue/product type
3 5 6 2 6
4The factory use dummy/body stands for fit tests?
3 5 4 6 5
5The factory use data sheets and test continually for the attachment of poppers/press studs
6 6 4 6 5
6 The factory have the apptopriate 4 7 4 5 4
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euipment to check pinch thicknesses and positions
7The factory follows BSI baby and children wear test and safety standards
5 4 5 3 5
8 Rejections on the pull tests 5 4 6 5 5
9Baby romper suits or new-born products regularly produced in the factory with good quality
7 5 5 4 6
10Cut work stored in separate clean covered bags, racking and or plastic boxes
5 4 5 4 5
11 Machines cleanliness 4 6 4 3 4
Total Score 51 55 54 47 51Table 4-6
(Triburg Inspection Report)
Communication, document control and work management: A method of assessing the Supplier's internal performance and management's ability to communicate effectively within their organisation. Their relationship and commitment to Customers. To evaluate and rate the Supplier's long term commitment to the organisation, using the Suppliers Self Assessment Data. (Debra L. Stubbings, 1999) The components of the Management segment are:-
Communication, Document Control and Work Movement
Item No Requirement V1 V2 V3 V4 V5
1Staff speak English Sufficiently well to handle client communications
5 6 6 6 5
2Reviewing purchase orders and ensuring that requirements are understood
6 5 5 3 6
3An adequate system for managing specifications and changes to designs, drawing and other requirements
4 5 6 5 6
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4The factory remains up do-date with client, local and international regulations relating to their products
6 4 5 5 4
5The factory have a separate sample facility that will replicate the production processes
7 4 6 6 4
8
Pre-production meetings with all departments to provide full communication of customers standards and requirements
6 5 5 7 4
9Up to-date technical information is always available
6 5 6 4 5
10The confidentiality of data is maintained including the safe disposal of documents, drawing or samples
6 5 4 4 6
TOTAL SCORE 46 39 43 40 40Table 4-7
(Triburg Inspection Report)
Incoming material inspection: The purpose of material inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for our garments. It also allow us to prevent loss of material and time during the garment manufacturing process and TJX requires that all production fabric and material to be inspected according to the 4-point system. (Debra L. Stubbings, 1999)
Incoming Material InspectionItem No Requirement V1 V2 V3 V4 V5
1 Company inspect all incoming materials 6 6 5 5 6
2Factory using a sampling plan for goods inwards inspection? 5 5 6 4 3
3Factory inspect fabric on an inspection machines 5 6 4 3 5
4Factory weigh the fabric and or check the construction – courses and wales/picks and ends 4 5 6 3 5
6Factory create wash blankets for product to be garment washed and or dyed? 5 5 6 4 7
7 Facilities for undertaking these inspections (appropriate light, tables, 6 6 6 5 4
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fabric inspection machine, light box etc. all calibrated)
8Fabrics/materials and components stored weel, e.g. in boxes, on racking, covered/protected 5 4 6 5 4
9Fabrics and components properly labelled and traceable 7 6 7 7 5
10Sample size adequate to provide confidence in the quality of incoming materials 6 6 4 5 4
11Different shade lots of fabrics or raw materials well separated in order to avoid mixing 5 6 5 4 6
12
All fabrics, yarns and other key components tested by appropriately approved laboratories tpo ensure compliance with requirements 5 6 4 6 5
(Triburg Inspection Report)On the above table scoring is done out of 10 on each level of each parameter of each vendor. These scores are added up to give the grand total of each vendor. These scores will be used to get the average score which will further helping to rate the vendors.
In the below table it’s an effort to assign a rank to each vendor.
These vendors are ranked on following parameters-1. Facilities2. Quality control system3. Incoming material inspection4. In-process quality control5. Baby wear product6. Communication document control and work management
Figure 4-2
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Each parameter is given weights out of 10. From the above tables we receive a grand total for each parameter Grand total of each parameter is multiplied with the weighting given to each parameter as per
the most importance and the least important Total of all parameters after multiplying for each vendor gives the total score To get the average score of the total score, the total score will be divided by the total of
weighting given to the parameters. Then finally we will get the weighted average score of the each vendor so that Vendors can
be rated as 1 to 5.
Weighted Average Score of Vendors:
Weighting
2 2 2 2 1 1 10Average score
Facilities
Quality Control Systems
Incoming
Material Inspectio
n
In Process Quality Control
Baby wear
product Specific
Communication, Document Control and
Work Movement
Score
Score/Weighing
V1 42 x 2 44 x 2 64 x 2 54 x 2 51 x 1 46 x 1505
505/1084 88 128 108 51 46 50.5
V2 32 x 2 45 x 2 66 x 2 47 x 2 55 x 1 39 x 1474
474/1064 90 132 94 55 39 47.4
V3 39 x 2 42 x 2 63 x 2 51 x 2 54 x 1 43 x 1487
487/1078 84 126 102 54 43 48.7
V4 31 x 2 39 x 2 56 x 2 51 x 2 47 x 1 40 x 1441
441/1062 78 112 102 47 40 44.1
V5 36 x 2 40 x 2 58 x 2 49 x 2 51 x 1 40 x 1457
457/1072 80 116 98 51 40 45.7
Table 4-9
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Weighted Average score of Vendors:
V1 V2 V3 V4 V5
50.5
47.4
48.7
44.1
45.7
Weighted Average Score
Figure 4-3
The above graph represents the weighted average score of the each vendor where as:
Vendor (v) Weighted average score Rank
Theme (V1) 50.5 1
Dassan (V2) 47.4 3
Shri Laxmi (V3) 48.7 2
Gupta Exim (V4) 44.1 5
RR Trends (V5) 45.7 4
Table 4-10
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The below graph was made with the help of last 2 years TMS(Triburg Merchandising System) entries Data of last 10 shipments from last 2 years, this shows the shipment status of the 5 vendors whether the buyer delivery was on time or late.
To evaluate the overall performance of vendor’s currently working with, including all information associated with the vendor, with the help of questionnaire filled by 4 senior merchants and 2 QA’s. In the below graph we have applied strength factor, 5 being the strongest and 1 being the weakest.
Parameters (Weighting 1) ThemeDassa
nShri
laxmiGupta Exim
RR Trends
Infrastructure (0.1)
23 x 0.120 x 0.1
21 x 0.1 19 x 0.1 22 x 0.1
2.3 2 2.1 1.9 2.2Design and Product Development(0.05)
20 x 0.0521x 0.05
20x 0.05 23x 0.05 22x 0.05
1 1.05 1 1.15 1.1Expertise of staff (0.05)
22x 0.0519x 0.05
20x 0.05 21x 0.05 21x 0.05
1.1 0.95 1 1.05 1.05 Price (0.2)
23 x 0.2 22x 0.2 21x 0.2 22x 0.2 19x 0.2
4.6 4.4 4.2 4.4 3.8Quality (0.3)
22 x 0.3 21x 0.3 20x 0.3 20x 0.3 19x 0.3
6.6 6.3 6 6 5.7On-Time Delivery (0.3)
24 x 0.3 22x 0.3 23x 0.3 22x 0.3 21x 0.3
7.2 6.6 6.9 6.6 6.3Social and Envionmental (0.1)
22 x 0.121 x 0.1
24 x 0.1 21 x 0.1 20 x 0.1
2.2 2.1 2.4 2.1 2
Weighted Average Score 25 23.4 23.6 23.2 22.15Table 4-12
In the below graph, the vendor are given scores on the areas in which the vendor can be rated. These areas were meticulously selected after interacting with the industry people and knowing the problematic areas. The areas include:
Infrastructure
Design and Product Development
Expertise of staff
Price
Quality
On-Time DeliverySocial and Environmental
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With the help of questionnaire and previous data, comes to a conclusion that which vendor got the highest score and then calculated the weighted average score to get the average score for the same so that a rank can be given to a buyer.
Theme Dassan Shri laxmi Gupta Exim RR Trends
25
23.423.6
23.2
22.15
Weighted Average Score
Figure 4-5
Vendors Weighted Average Score RatingTheme 25 1Dassan 23.4 3
The below tables shows the performance of the each vendor on different parameters: The overall score represents the general evaluation of a vendor. It is a combination of the scores the vendor has achieved for all the main criteria.
Factory Inspection |
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Vendor (v) Weighted average score Rank
Theme (V1) 50.5 1
Dassan (V2) 47.4 3
Shri Laxmi (V3) 48.7 2
Gupta Exim (V4) 44.1 5
RR Trends (V5) 45.7 4
Figure 4-3
Out of the five vendors, for Factory Inspection, Theme received the best overall score, and Gupta Exim the worst
Shipment Status
Vendors On-time shipment Late Rank
Theme 90% 10% 1
Dassan 60% 40% 4
Shri Laxmi 80% 20% 2
Gupta Exim 70% 30% 3
RR Trends 50% 50% 5
Table 4-11
Out of the five vendors, for Shipment Status, Theme received the best overall score, and RR Trends the worst.
Questionnaire
Vendors Weighted Average Score Rating
Theme 25 1
Dassan 23.4 3
Shri Laxmi 23.6 2
Gupta Exim 23.2 4
RR Trends 22.15 5
Figure 4-13
Out of the five vendors, for overall parameters with the help of questionnaire, Theme received the best overall score, and RR Trends the worst.
Chapter 5: Summary and Conclusion
This study on Vendor evaluation is important as it can reduce supply chain costs and improve the quality and timeliness of the delivery of items to the company. The skill in evaluating vendors is to determine which criteria are important and the weighting to these criteria are given than these criteria are different for each item and possibly different between regions or
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countries. The objective data is important and useful to compare the information that can obtain from each purchase order and goods receipt and sometimes the subjective data that your purchasing agents can provide such as customer service and the willingness of the vendor to accommodate the requirements, or more important in a vendor evaluation. The evaluation consists of identifying the criteria, attributes, or factors relevant to the decision and then measuring or rating each vendor by considering each of the relevant factors. The overall supplier’s critical part is selection process is the determination of the relative importance of each of the factors. This approach is based on a multi statistical method, Weighted Average Score combine different ratio measures defined by every input and every output. After using the weighting average score for the different parameters, different rank can be given to the vendors and finally got the result that which vendor is scoring which rank.
Figure 5-1
On the above picture as we can see the Theme has got the 1st rank in Factory Inspection, Shipment Status report, and Questionnaires filled by QA’s and Merchandiser’s. As per the TJ- MAXX Group the delivery and quality are the first preference so as per the shipment and inspection report Theme has got the first rank.
Chapter 6: Recommendations
Suggestions are given to develop better Vendor Rating and Vendor Evaluation system:
|
THEME
GUPTA EXIM
Factory Inspection
THEMEShipment Status
THEME
RR Trends
RR Trends
Questionnaire
QA & Sr. Merchandiser
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· Suitable price grading of vendors must be followed by the company.
Cut down the cost
Better vendor selection.
· Share vendor cost criteria with estimating, purchasing, financial, and other departments, so that buyer knows the breakups and buyers will be attracted to the buying house as well as Vendor.
· Can improve the productivity using flexible ad hoc estimating, and pre-defined reports.
· Reduce the costs by comparing costs between vendors on individual line item components.
· Roll up your sleeves and do the hard work - manage the vendors the way leading publishers do so that it can increase the business of the company.
· Vendors always try to hide the cost of various processes or components in an effort to profit from obscure information, so that they know about the breakups.
The top vendor will have good reputation in the eyes of buying house and buyer this will fetch more orders to the Vendor as well as Buying House.
This process is a time consuming so Triburg should train their merchants, QA’s, to do the vendor evaluation after a fixed interval of time, there is no need to hire a new person for the same process, so that it keep updating about the vendor performance and Vendor Evaluation will enable to choose the most appropriate vendor for a specific requirement, and supports the buying house to continuous monitoring of existing supply relationships.
After doing focus evaluation if they feel there is some problem they are facing, then they can give feedback to the factory so that they can improve with their process. It can help the vendor to improve so that it can help the vendor and buyer to get the business from Buyers.
Chapter 7: Cost Benefit Analysis
Costs Benefits Analysis (CBA) seeks to compare the costs and benefits and take decisions on the basis of the findings. The problem with CBA is that it is difficult to quantify all benefits and costs, especially the intangibles.
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Benefits:
Reducing the size of vendor matrix for better and long term business relations
Provides more transparency in supply chain, from customer to supplier or vice versa.
Reduce workload for Merchant/ QA/ Vendor/ management
Efficient working, less manpower required in Triburg
More business more profits with less no. of hands.
Less Rejections/Wastage, more Margins for factory
More Margins , gives an hand to Vendor to offer better price to customer( in-turn more business)
Depending on the facility capability, styles can be allocated to vendor.
No unnecessary costing/TNA with each and every Vendor
(Quotes example what kind of product which Vendor can do)
Depending on facility capacity , no of units can be allocated to a vendor per product category
Depending on facility quality systems, more complicated style can be offered
Overbooking/incorrect allocation only leads to late deliveries and quality rejection and in-turn affect business
References:
Ainamo, D. a. (1999). The Coevolution of New Organizational forms in the Fashion Industry. Retrieved April 2, 2013, from academia.edu: http://www.academia.edu.
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Alberto De Toni and Guido Nassimbeni (2001), 'A method for the evaluation of suppliers co-design effort', International Journal of Production Economics, 72, 169-180
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Bohlinger, M. S. (2001). Merchandise Buying. Fairchild Publication, inc.
Debra L. Stubbings. (1999). Supplier Evaluation Matrix. Retrieved April 4, 2013, from Institute For Supply Management: www.instituteforsupplymanagement.com
Doyle, Moore, & Morgan. (2006). Fashion Marketing and Management. Fast Fashion .
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Feigenbaum, A. V. Total Quality Control (Third Edition ed.).
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kothari, c. (1985). research methodology, method & techniques (second edition ed.). new age international pvt ltd.
Robert M. Monczka, Robert B. Handfield, Larry Giunipero (2008). Purchasing and Supply Chain Management. Cengage Learning. p. 810. ISBN 978-0-324-38134-4.
Sahay, B. S. (1999). Supply Chain Management. New Delhi: Rajiv Beri for Macmillan India Ltd.
Stanley, L.L. (1994). An Empirical Study of the Link Between Buyer-Supplier Relationships and Purchasing Performance. Tempe: Arizona State University
Summit. (2001). The Supply Chain Yearbook. McGraw-Hill.
Triburg. (n.d.). Apparel Buying Agents. Retrieved March 29, 2013, from http://www.triburg.com/
Weber. (1966). The Impact of selected Cultural Dimensions on International Services Venor. United States: UMI Microform.
Wheelwright, & Clark. (1992). Managing Buyer- Supplier Relations. In R. Nellore, Managing Buyer- Supplier Relations. Routledge Taylor and Fraocis Group.
