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1 TURF Bill Taylor Weston County Extension University of Wyoming The University of Wyoming, United States Department of Agriculture, and Weston County Extension Office cooperate
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1

TURF

Bill Taylor

Weston County ExtensionUniversity of Wyoming

The University of Wyoming, United States Department of Agriculture, and Weston CountyExtension Office cooperate

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University of Wyoming 2

Selecting the Right Grass The grass you sow will be the lawn you

mow.

The most vital step to final lawn results.

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University of Wyoming 3

Turfgrass Terminology  Vegetative parts of 

plant useful in

indentification Leaf blade

Leaf sheath

 Vernation

Collar Ligule

 Auricles

Growth habit 

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University of Wyoming 4

Leaf Blade

Upper flattened portion of leaf 

Texture fine, medium, coarse? Veins prominent?

Shade of green?

Smooth (glabrous) or hairy(pubescent)?

Tip pointed, boat-shaped, blunt,round?

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University of Wyoming 5

Leaf Blade (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 6

Leaf Sheath Lower portion of the leaf part that 

encircles stem

Cylindrical? Compressed?

Closed? Open? Margins overlapping?

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University of Wyoming 7

Leaf Sheath (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 8

 Vernation Arrangement of new leaves with older

leaf sheath

Folded or rolled when it emerges?

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University of Wyoming 9

 Vernation (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 10

Collar Band at junction of leaf blade and leaf 

sheath

Divided, broad, narrow?

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University of Wyoming 11

Collar (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 12

Ligule Appendage on inner side of grass leaf 

at junction of blade and sheath

 Absent, membranous, hairy?

If present, size and shape?

Upper edge smooth, notched, hairy

(ciliate)?

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University of Wyoming 13

Ligule (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 14

 Auricles Appendages occurring in pairs at base

of blade

Present or absent?

If present, small (rudimentary) orprominent (clawlike)?

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University of Wyoming 15

 Auricles (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 16

Growth Habit  Plant erect or lying down (decumbent)?

Lateral shoots such as rhizomes(underground stems), stolons(aboveground stems), or tillers (shootsthat arise from crown)?

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University of Wyoming 17

Growth Habit (cont.)

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University of Wyoming 18

 Variety Considerations Aesthetic purposes or play?

Heavy traffic cultivar tolerating lots of use.

Plenty or minimum maintenance?

Minimal amounts of water, fertilizer, pest 

and weed management? Variety which will survive with little care

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University of Wyoming 19

 Variety Considerations (cont.) Irrigation available?

Use bluegrasses & fine fescues whereirrigation is available

Drought-resistant species where noirrigation is available

Good quality water? If high in salts a salt tolerant species is

needed

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University of Wyoming 20

 Variety Considerations (cont.) Soil sandy or clay?

Clay drains poorly, may hold too much

water for some types Shade or sun?

Most will not tolerate heavy shade

Elevation? Higher elevations more difficult for turf 

grass

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University of Wyoming 21

 Variety Considerations (cont.) Temperature and climate?

Warm season vs cool season types

Only two warm season varieties for Wyoming Buffalo grass, Blue grama

NOT Zoysia, Bermuda, St. Augustine

Will not green up until mid or late June

Will go dormant when short of moisture

 All others are cool season

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University of Wyoming 22

Grass Varieties Four types

Sod forming vs. bunch grasses

Warm season vs. cool season

*

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University of Wyoming 23

Kentucky bluegrass & red fescues spread byunderground stems (rhizomes) and side branches

(tillers) from the crown.

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University of Wyoming 24

Bentgrasses and buffalograss spread by creeping stems(stolons) on the soil surface.

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University of Wyoming 25

Bunchgrasses like crested wheatgrass, ryegrass andtall fescues spread by side branches at the crown.

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University of Wyoming 26

Grass Varieties (cont.) Kentucky Bluegrass

Sod former

Cool season

Soft, pretty

Many cultivars

Some require high maintenance, some low

Seed @ 3-5 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 27

Grass Varieties (cont.) Kentucky Bluegrass (cont.)

 Advantages

Readily available Cheap

Soft and green

Disadvantages High water requirements

2 every 7-10 days (~5000-6000 gal/wk for 5000 sq. ft.lawn)

Numerous diseases

Die-back with adverse conditions

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University of Wyoming 28

GRASS VARIETIES (cont.) Perennial ryegrass

Bunch grass

Cool season Mixed w/ bluegrass attractive

Pretty blue sheen

Germinates rapidly short life span

Uses water like bluegrass Crowded out eventually by bluegrass

Seed @ 6-8 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 29

Grass Varieties (cont.) Turf-Type Tall Fescue

Coarse-bladed, cool season

Bunch grass

Drought resistant 

Will regreen after drying out 

Will survive @ 50%-70% of bluegrasswater

Seed @ 6-8 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 30

Grass Varieties (cont.) Fine fescue

Sod former

Cool season

 Very fine & delicate looking

Rugged tolerance

Disadvantages Lodges before cutting

Can sunburn

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University of Wyoming 31

Grass Varieties (cont.) Fine Fescue (cont.)

Stays green long

Drought resistant 

Will survive @ 50% of bluegrass water

Forms thatch quickly

Good in shade Seed @ 5 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 32

Grass Varieties (cont.) Crested wheatgrass

Bunch grass

Cool season

Uses 50% of bluegrass water

Sensitive to traffic

No disease or insect problems Seed @ 5 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 33

Grass Varieties (cont.) Smooth bromegrass

One recommended cultivar Lincoln

Seed @ 10-12 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 35

Grass Varieties (cont.) Blue grama

Bunch grass, but will eventually sod

Warm season Greens up in late June, browns out at first frost 

No watering required after established Must water first 2 years

Can water to keep green

More tolerant to salty soil than buffalograss Finer, more attractive than buffalograss

Seed @ 1-3 lb./1000 sq. ft.

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University of Wyoming 36

Grass Varieties (cont.) Recommended mixture of warm season

grass

50/50 buffalograss and blue grama

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University of Wyoming 37

Planting Grass Cool seasons

Fall if irrigation water is unlimited August 15th to September 15th

Early spring if water is limited

Late June to mid-August above 6500 

Warm seasons May 10th to June 15th

*

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University of Wyoming 38

Planting Grass (cont.)1. Soil test 

2. Water test 

3. Compatibility determination of #1 &#2

4.  Availability of water

5. What do you want?

1. Kids, retirement 

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University of Wyoming 39

Planting Grass (cont.)6. Make a plan very important 

1. Play, high use areas

2. Trees, shrubs grass & trees dont mix, mulchtrees

3.  Vegetable and flower gardens

4. Traffic areas, utility, low exposure areas

5. Get the right plant in the right place

6. Use graph paper and sketch it all out 

7. MAKE YOUR DECISIONS NOW

*

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University of Wyoming 40

Planting Grass (cont.)7. Choose the grass type and variety

1. Use only adapted, recommended

varieties with certified seed.8. Grading plan

1. Be sure water stays on your property

2. Keep water from basement, garage, etc.

9. Do rough grade1. Check the water flow

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University of Wyoming 41

Planting Grass (cont.)10. Start loosening soil

1. Plow deep (dont turn up sub-soil), leave bare-faced over winter

2. Till in spring avoid over tilling1. Kill weed crop2. May need additional Roundup treatments to get ahead

of weeds

11.  Add amendments1. If organic matter is less than 5% (most are) add

3-5 cu. yd. compost/1000 sq. ft. (1 cover)2. Till in to 4-8 depth

*

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University of Wyoming 42

Planting Grass (cont.)12. Drag and firm soil at final grade

1. This is your last chance be sure water

drains where you want it 13.  Add good starter fertilizer

1. Up to 1#/1000 ft 2 of N w/ sulfur and iron

14. Pre-water

*

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University of Wyoming 43

Planting Grass (cont.)15. Determine planting method

1. Seed1. Cheapest 2. Highest chance of failure

1. May cost as much as hydroseeding when done

3. Wet soil seed must have contact with dampsoil

4. Seed two directions

*

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University of Wyoming 44

Planting Grass (cont.)16. Hydroseeding

1. Can be custom blended

2.  Ask about seed mixes, mulch used,fertilizers, care given

17. Sodding

1. Rewater lightly2. Obtain from as close as possible

1. Must be laid as soon after cut as possible

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University of Wyoming 45

Planting Grass (cont.)17. Sodding (cont.)

3. Stagger seams, be sure they are tight 

4. Run strips longest direction

5. Roll down to eliminate air pockets

6. Water behind yourself 

18. Plugs, strips

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University of Wyoming 46

Planting Grass (cont.)17. Plan again last chance

1. Dont grass any mounds

2. Use ground paint and mark lot 18. Seed, sod, or plug

1. Seed two directions

2. If broadcast, lightly rake or drag3. Mulch with straw, netting, matting

especially if on a slope

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University of Wyoming 47

Planting Grass (cont.)18. Watering

1. By feel soil feels like wrung out sponge

2. Lightly, frequently dont let it dry out 

3. Reduce frequency, increase duration asroots increase

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University of Wyoming 48

Planting Grass (cont.)19. Mow at 45 days

1. Cut to 2-2½

2. Mainly to mow off weeds

20.  At 3-4 mowings can use chemicalherbicide if needed

1. Use at ¾ rate

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University of Wyoming 49

Turf Maintenance Early Spring (even if 

frozen)

Rake up leaves & deadgrass and compost 

Can power rake hastensgreenup, lets ground warm

up earlier, removes deadmaterial

Overseed thin & bare spots

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University of Wyoming 50

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Spring (cont.)

Mow to ½-¾, bag and remove

Do not remove more than 1/3 blade length Water thoroughly, can use surfactant 

Plug aerate

Up to triple the soil microbial action

Plugs 2½-3 deep  A plug every 3-5 in2

Go over twice

*

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University of Wyoming 51

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Spring (cont.)

Fertilize with 21-7-7 @ 1½-2¼ #N/1000 ft 2 intothe aeration plugs Use slow release

Or use screened compost or well rotted manure

Mow every 5-7 days if you leave the clippings 7-10 days if clippings removed

Weed control Hand weeding

Herbicide application Pre- or post-emergent for annual weeds if needed

Spot control for perennial weeds, i.e. dandelion, thistle

*

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University of Wyoming 52

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Summer

Fertilize with 1½ #N/1000 ft 2

Slow release Slowly let grass get taller w/ each mowing until

3-3½ (Keep that mower sharp!) Keeps crowns shaded

Depth of roots directly related to top height 

Problem areas begin to show High heat areas most damage at 2:00 p.m.

Spraying w/ hose reduces temperature

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University of Wyoming 53

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Summer (cont.)

Water early daylight to 10:00 a.m.

Water deep and seldom 6-12 deep once every 7-10 days

Use test hole to determine time required

Rewater just before water stress sets in (about 50% of water used)

Signs of water stress

Bluish color

Foot prints slow to rebound

*

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University of Wyoming 54

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Early Summer (cont.)

Water deep and seldom (cont.)

Frequent, shallow watering

Shallow, weak root system

Requires more water

Creates thatch

Impervious layer of fine roots below grass crownand above soil like layer of felt 

Dries out quickly

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University of Wyoming 55

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Mid Summer (~August 1)

Increase water if hot and dry back off as soon

as cools off  Maintain lawn length at 2½-3

Remember not to remove more than 1/3 blade length inany mowing

Check for sod webworm larvae and adults

Summer dormancy

Topdress w/ compost in heat of summer water-in well

*

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University of Wyoming 56

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Fall

Continue deep watering

Perennial broadleaf weed control

Overseed & repair of damaged areas

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University of Wyoming 57

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Late Fall

Start cutting shorter with each mowing End up at ¾ by snow Helps prevent snow mold

 Aerate Fertilize

Top dress w/ screened compost or rotted manure (or) Fertilizer

Slow release if early Quick release if real late Winterizer fertilizers w/ extra P or K not warranted N is

still nutrient needed

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University of Wyoming 58

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Late Fall (cont.)

Water deeply as

needed

Rake leaves

Prevent matting andgrass suffocation

May return some tolawn by usingmulching mower

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University of Wyoming 59

Turf Maintenance (cont.) Winter

Water slightly whenever bare and

temperature is 45°F or above Do mower maintenance

Drought conditions Apply 1-2 lb. N/1000 sq. ft. after top growth is

dormant available for next spring greenup. Refrain from fertilization rest of year if water is

limited.

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University of Wyoming 60

Fertilizer Calculations Note the three numbers on the front of the

bag i.e. 25-5-5, 10-10-10  Always N, P, K percentages in that order

Note % of N this is the vital nutrient tobalance for

Divide pounds of N needed per 1000 sq. ft.by percent N. = amount of fertilizer per 1000

sq. ft. Multiply by the number of 1000s of sq.

footage to find total amount to purchase.

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University of Wyoming 61

Fertilizer Calculations (cont.) Your lawn measures 100 x 500.

 Your fertilizer recommendation says youshould apply 1.5 lb. N per 1000 sq. ft.

 You find 15-5-5 at the store @ $10.50per 20 lb. bag.

What will it cost to fertilize your lawn?

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University of Wyoming 62

Fertilizer Calculations (cont.) Lawn area = 100 X 500 =

5000 sq. ft. or 5 thousands.

1.5 lb N needed ÷ .15 (15%) = 10 lb fertilizer needed for every 1000 sq. ft.

10 lb x 5 thousands = 50 lb fertilizer to buy

50 lb ÷ 20 lb/bag = 2.5 bags

3 bags x $10.50 = $31.50

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Controlling Pests Good surface & subsurface drainage

when establishing new turf 

Grow locally adapted, disease-resistant varieties

Buy only top-quality certified sod,sprigs, plugs, seed from reputabledealer

Fertilize according to recommendations

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University of Wyoming 64

Controlling Pests (cont.) Mow frequently at recommended height 

with sharp mower, removing no more

than 1/3 of blade. Water properly

Increase light penetration and air

movement by pruning or removingdense trees, shrubs, hedges

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Controlling Pests (cont.) Core aerate thatched and compacted

areas

Follow recommended weed and insect control programs.

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