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1
How to Draft & Make Fakie Hakama
by Samantha Lemieux (`taeliac) Taeliac Studio Cosplay – www.BeAnime.com
Thistutorialisonhowtomakefakehakamathatarebothcomfortableandreallydramaticandstylizedforcosplaypurposes.Thetutorialwillnottellyouhowtotackdownthepleatsintostraightknifepleats,however,becausethatwillbeinawholeothertutorial.Thiswilljusttellyouhowtodraftthepattern,andhowtoputthemtogether.
Theycanbedoneinoneoftwoways,dependingonwhatyouwantthemtobelike:theycaneitherhaveanelasticwaist,ortheycanhavetheslitsinthesides,withtiestoholdthemon.Theprocessisbasicallythesameforboth,andIwillbeshowingyouhowtodothemwiththeelasticwaist,buttherewillbenoteswhensomethingchangesfordoingthesideslitsandties.Thisismeanttobeanintroductiontohowtomakehakamapantsforcosplaypurposes.Thesehakamaarenottraditional‐withthisdraft,thefrontandthebackofthehakamaareusingthesamepattern.Ifyouwantthemtobemoretraditional,however,*you*cangoaheadandreworkthepatterntoallowforadifferentfrontandbackpleatdesign.
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Measurements Needed &
Important Information
Forthistutorial,youwillneedthefollowingmeasurements:
- Waist- Hip- Waisttofloor
Tohelpyouwithkeepingtrackoftheimportantinformationneededwhiledrafting,I’veleftthispagewithblankfillinspots.Asyou’regoing,writedowntheimportantinfoonthispageintheappropriatespot,soyoucanreferenceitlateron.
YourMeasurements
Waist:____________
Hip:____________
Waisttofloor:____________
StartingNumbers
StartingWidth:____________
StartingLength:____________
PleatInformation
#ofpleats:____________
Depthofpleats:____________
Randomscribblingspace
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Drafting the Pattern
Now,personally,Iusually"draft"mypatternssmall,onasheetofgridpaper,toplanitoutbeforegoingontothefabric.Andthen,Itakethat,anddrawrightonmyfabric.
Ifyouareuncomfortablewithdoingthis,youcanuseanysortofrollofpaperforthis(wrappingpaperworkswonderfully‐it'swide,andcomesinlongsheets)tomaketheoriginalpattern.Itisgoingtobeuptoyouhowyouwanttodothis,it'smorebasedonyourcomfortlevelwithdrawingonfabricaccurately.
Forthesehakama,thereare4panelsthatmakeupthepants‐twofrontandtwobackpieces,andtheyareallidentical,soyouonlyhavetodraftthisonce.
Starting Width
1.First,weneedtofindthemeasurementwe’regoingtoworkoffof.
Ifyouaremakingthehakamawiththeelasticwaistband,youwillbeworkingoffofyourhipmeasurement(thisistheoneIwillbedoingthroughoutthistutorial).
Ifyouaremakingthehakamawiththetiesandsideslits,youwillbeworkingoffofyourwaistmeasurement.
2.Takewhichevermeasurementyou'reworkingoffof,anddivideitby4(androundituptothenearesthalf,thereisn'treallyaneedtobethataccuratewiththis).
3.Then,add1½”tothatnumber.Thisisyourextraseamallowance(about¾”)toactuallysewthehakamatogether.
4.*ONLY*ifyouaremakinghakamawithsideslitsandties,subtractanadditional2”
Thisisthestartingwidthofyourhakama.You'renotreadytodraftitout,yet,becausewehaveafewmorethingstofigureout.Goaheadandwritethatonyourreferencepage,becausewe’llneeditagainshortly.
MyExample
1.Mystartinghipmeasurementis40”
2.Ithendivideby4,toget10”
3.10”+1½”seamallowance=11½”
11½”ismystartingwidth
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Drafting the Pattern
Thispartiseasytofigureout.Simplytakeyourwaisttofloormeasurement,plus3".THISISIMPORTANTTOREMEMBER:Thisgivesyou1"ofseamallowanceatthetop,anda2"hematthebottom!Yes,youwillhaveabighem.Yes,thereisareasonforthis‐theweightoftheextrafabricatthehem,andthesizeofit,willhelpthehakamatolayinthosenicewooblesatthebottom,versusjustflaringout.Itreallywillaffecthowtheylook,sojustpleasekeepremindingyourselfthatthereisa2"hemonthesepants.We'llgettothehemfasterthannormalpants,butjustkeepremindingyourselfofit.
Starting Length
MyExample
Mywaisttoflooris42”,so42”+3”is45”
45”ismystartinglength
Pleats
Well,rightnow,wejusthavesomenumbersthatcorrespondtoourbodysizes.Weneedtoaddthepleatstothehakama,though,toactuallymakehakama!
First,decideonhowdeepyouwantthepleatstobe.AsfarasIcantell,traditionalhakamapleatsareabout1"deep,butIlikedrama,soIhavemadetheone'sinthiscostume3"deep.
Youcangoanynumberyouwant,butifyougomuchover3",theystarttobecomeunwieldytosew,andyou'llgetheavierhakama.But,ifyouneedmore,additin‐thisisuptoyou!And,theydon'tallhavetobethesamedepth,buttheyreallylookmoredramaticiftheyare‐thewooblesatthebottomwillbemoreeven;P
Writedownhowmanypleatsyouwant,perpanel.
Whenyou'redoingthemathtoaddineachpleat,youneedtoconsiderthatpleatsneedtwicethedepthinfabrictomakethem;so,a3"deeppleatactuallyneeds6"offabrictomakeitwork.A2"deepfabricneeds4"offabric...yougettheidea!
Thisiswhy,whenitcomestofabricpurchasing,Irecommendyougetsomuchofit.You’llmorethanlikelyneedtoopenupyourfabricandcutjustoneatatime,theybecomeverylarge,veryfast.
Next,youneedtodecideonhowmanypleatsyouwant.Traditionally,therearethreepleatsinthefront(and,asthesearenottraditionalhakama,youcanhaveasmanyasyouwant!)
Yourlastdecision,atleastatthemoment,iswhereyouwouldlikethepleatstobe.Youcanevenlyspacethem,orputthemallclosertothecenterfront,ordosomethingcompletelydifferent.Itisnotvitalrightnowthatyouknowexactlywhereyouwantthem,butgetanideaofwhereyou’dlikethemtobe,itwillmakethedraftingaloteasier.Thisiswheredoingitonasmallsheetofpaperhelps…
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Drafting the Pattern
Drafting the actual pattern
Todraftoutyourpattern,youshouldstartdrawingarightangle:
Alongtheedge,writeSIDESEAMlikethediagramshows.Thetopseamiswhereyourpleatsaregoingtogo,thatisyourwaistline.
Ifyouaremakinghakamathatareputonwithties,notelastic,you'llwantto'chop'offpartofthisatanangle,atabout2"inalongthetoplineand8"downthesideseam.(rememberbefore,whenIhadyoutakeanextra2"offyourstartingwidth?Thisiswhy).Besuretomakeanoticeablemarkatthe8"downline,we'llneedthatlateronwhensewingittogether.
Ifyouaremakingelasticwaistbandhakama,noneedtodoanythingelse.
I'mgoingtoshowyoumypleatingpattern,andyoucanchoosetofollowitifyouwouldlike,orcomeupwithyourown.Yournumberswillchange,however,intheamountofspacingyou'llneedtoleavebetweeneachpleat.Oneachend(sideseamandcenterfront)youneedtoleaveatleast1",soyouactuallyhavesomeseamallowance.
Ifyou’llrememberfrommyexample,mystartingwidthis11½”.ThatistheamountofspaceIneedto"takeup",notincludingthepleats.So,mypleatingpatternisgoingtobe:
SIDESEAM
8”dow
n
2”in
SIDESEAM
SIDESEAM
4”spacePleat#16”space 3”space
Pleat#26”space 2”space
Pleat#26”space 2½”space
CENTERFRON
T
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Drafting the Pattern Ifyouaddtogetherthenumbersnottakenupbypleats(4+3+2+2.5)you’llgetthatstartingwidth,or11½”inthiscase.
ThemarkingsofthepleatsisjusthowI'musedtodoingit,soIcanquicklyseewherethepleatis,andwheretheactualwaistpartis.Thepartswiththelinethroughitarethepleats,andeachendofthepleatismarked,aswellasthemiddle.
Hooray!Youhavethetoplinedone!
Now,youwanttocompleteyourrectangle.Alongthesideseam,measuredownyourstartinglengthnumber,tothehemofyourpants.
Inmyexample,mystartinglengthis45”
But,youcan'tcutitoutnow,unlessyouwanttomakeahakamaskirt,orunsplithakama.Ifthatisthecase,goahead,andcutfourofthese,andyou'regoodtogo.Ifyouwantthemtobepants,however,weneedtoaddinthatall‐importantcrotchseam.
SIDESEAM
CENTERFRON
T
45”
Adding the crotch seam
PleaseNote:Thisisjustmyarbitrarymeasurementforacrotchseam‐youmayneedtomakeitlarger,ifyouarealargerperson,ormaywanttobringtheheightupifyouareshorter.But,thisshouldcovermostpeople,butifitdoesn'tworkout,youcanmostdefinitelychangethesenumbers.
We'regoingtonowmakeyourcrotchseam,branchingrightoffofyourexistingrectangle.
First,measuredownyourcenterfront(CF)seam11",andmakeamark:
SIDESEAM
11”down
CENTERFRON
T
Now,squaredofffromthat,makealineout7":
SIDESEAM
7”out
CENTERFRON
T
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Drafting the Pattern
Thisiswhatyouuseasaguidetodrawyourcurve:
SIDESEAM
CENTERFRON
T
And,yes,theseamallowanceshouldbeaddedinhere,too;PBecauseI'mtrickylikethat!
Now,you'regoingtodrawanotherline,allthewaydowntothehem,andthisisyournewINSEAMline(markitasinseam,soyoudon'tgetconfusedlateron).
Hooray!Youhaveyourpatternforyourhakama!You'regoingtoneedtocutfour(4)oftheseout,twoforthefront,andtwofortheback.Tofiguretheamountoffabricyou'llprobablyneed,justtakeyourstartinglength,andmultiplyitbyfour.Getthatamount,plusahalfofayardextra,fortheties.Goaheadandcutthem,beingsuretotransferallofthemarkingstothefabricpieces,andwe'llgetreadytostartsewing(thehardpartisover,bytheway,sofeelgoodifyoumadeitthroughallofthat!)
SIDESEAM
CENTERFRON
T
INSEAM
Sewing the Hakama
Alright!Thereareafewdifferentstepsdependingonwhattypeofhakamayou'remaking,butthesewingisbyfartheeasypart,althoughtheorderinwhichyou'regoingtobedoingthingsmaybealittledifferentthanyou'reusedtowithsewing.
Step 1: Sew the side seams together
First,we'regoingtoputthesideseamstogether,tomaketwopantlegs.Ifyouaremakingtheelasticwaisthakama,you'regoingtosewtheseamallthewayfromthetoptothebottom.
Goandpressthisseam.Pressingeveryseamwhenyousewitisthekeytohavinggoodlookinghakama.
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Sewing the Hakama
Ifyouaremakingthetiedhakama,youwillwanttosewthemfromthemark,8"down(Remember?Waybackatthebeginningwhenyouweredraftingthepattern,andIsaidtodotheanglething?),allthewaydown,leavingthattoppartopen.
Presstheseamopen,allthewayup,andthentopstitchtheopeningareadown.Thisiscreatingthefinishededgethere,soyoudon'thavetoworryaboutitlater.
Step 2: Hems
Nowisthetimetoputtheheminyourhakama.Youmaybewondering"whyamIputtingtheheminwhenonlyoneoftheseamsistogether?"andthesimpleansweris,it'saloteasiertodonow,thanlateronwhenthey'reallsewntogether.Theinseammaylookalittlebulkywhenit'salldone,butitisasmallpricetopayforthisbeingeasiertodonow.Tofinishthehem,youhavemanyoptions,suchasusingpinkingshears,awidezig‐zagovertherawedge,or,ifyouhaveaccesstoanoverlockmachine,doanoverlockonit.Eitherway,finishtheverybottom,rawedge,tokeepitfromfrayingwithlongdaysofwear.Then,stitchyourhemup,eitherbyhand,astraighttopstitch,or,ifyouaredaring,usingablindhemfootandstitchonyourmachine(Irefusetogointohowtodothis‐readthemanualifyoudon'tknowhowtouseyourblindhemfoot,becauseeachmachineisdifferent,andifyouhaven'tdoneitbefore,Ihighlyrecommendjusttopstitchingitinplace.)
Step 3: Pinning the pleats
Now,gobackuptothetopofyourhakama,andwe'regoingtostartpleating.Thisisthetimewhenyoucanchoosewhichdirectionyouwantyourpleatstogo‐youcanhavethempointingoutwardsorinwards‐thechoiceiscompletelyuptoyou.Traditionalhakamahavethempointinginwards,butyoudon'thavetodothatifyoudon'twantto.Pleatdirectionscanbeconfusingifyou’reavisualperson,tosaytheleast,sowhatIliketodoisusejustaplainoldstraightpin,andpinthepleatclosed.
Hakama,withthehemsputinthebottom,topstitcheddown.
SIDESEAM
Topstitchthefoldededgedown,ontheinside,soyoucan’tseetherawedgeanymore.
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Sewing the Hakama Then,turnyourgarmentsothatyou'reseeingtherightsidefacingoutwards,andplaywiththepleat,movingitsothatit'spointingoutwards,andinwards,andseewhichyoulikebetter.Heck,theyalldon'thavetogointhesamedirection,either;it'suptoyou,again,howyouwanttodothem.Onceyoufigureouthowyouwantthepleatstogo,pinthemdowninplace.
Ifyouhaveanypinslostsomewhereinthefoldsofthepleats,removethembeforestitchingthisdown!Otherwise,youmaywindupbreakingyoursewingneedle,ormessingupthestitchingandhavingtore‐doit.Thisfinalpictureshowswhatthehakamapleatslooklike,fromtherightside,witheverythingpinneddown.ThecrotchseamhereiswheretheCenterFrontis,sothepleatsarefacingtowardsthecenter.
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Sewing the Hakama
Thisisjustgoingtobeawayofholdingthepleatsinplace,sothatit'seasiertoworkwithfromhereonin.
You'regoingtoberemovingthisstitchlateron,justtoletyouknow.
Youcaneitherhandbasteormachinebastealongthetopofthepleats,alittlemorethan1"belowthetopseam(say11/4"down).Makesurethatthepleatsdon'tgetcaughtandtwisted
inthisstitch‐ifitdoes,takeitoutanddoitagain.Thiswilljustcreatenicelookingpleats,andthatisthewholepointofthesepants!
Step 4: Stitching the pleats down
Now,we'llgetthemtoactuallystartlookinglikepants!First,youaregoingtowanttosewtheinseamstogether,tocreatetwoseparatepantlegs.Youshoulddefinitelyhavetwo,separatepantlegs,ifthey'reattachedatallyou'vedonesomethingwrong(unlessyou'redoingtheskirthakama,thenyoushouldhaveaskirt...)
Step 5: Sewing the pant legs together
Now,takeyourtwopantlegs,andputtherightsidestogether,andsewthecrotchseamfromfronttoback,pinningthemtogethertobesurethattheinseamslineup.
Hooray!Youhavepants!Almost,butcloseenoughtoputthemonandbeagoon!
Step 6: Sewing the crotch seam
Fortheelasticwaistedband~
Cuttwo4"widestripsof45"widefabric,andsewthemtogethersoyouhaveonelongstrip.
Foldthisinhalfthelongway‐thisisyourwaistband.
Step 7: Ties and waistband
45” 45” 4”
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Sewing the Hakama Pickonesideofyourhakama‐thisisnowyourfront.Startingattheseamatthecenterfront,pinyourwaistbandtothehakama,allthewayaround.
Whenyouhittheotherseam(nowthecenterbackseam),leavetheexcesshangingoffrightnow.Pintheotherhalfofthewaistbandon,andonceyouhitthecenterbackagain,leavetheexcesshangingoff.
Now,you'regoingtocuttheexcessfabricoff,exceptforanextra1"orso.
Takethisextrainch,andfolditintothewaistband,justtocreateanice,finishededgeonthecasing.Pressitflat,soitlookspretty.
Sewthewaistbandtothehakama,withtheseamallowancefacingtotheinside(rightsidestogether),1”downfromthetop(remember,that1”extraseamallowanceweaddedforthelength?That’swhatthisisfor.)Finishtheinsideedgehoweveryouseefit(Ichoosetouseanoverlockonit).
Fromhereonin,thephotosthatgoalongwiththeinstructionsaredone
withascrapoffabric,togetthepicturesforyouall,asmyattemptatillustratingwhatneededtobedonewasatotal
failure.
So,ifthepieceI’mworkingwithseemsalittlesmall,comparedtowhatyou’reworkingwith,don’tworry:DThesearejusttoshowyouthestepswithpictures.
Pressyourcasingagain,tomakeitlooknice.Feedtheelasticthroughthiscasing,andseworpinclosed.Iusuallycuttheelastic4"shorterthanyourwaistmeasurement,andleaveitjustpinnedtogether,sothatmycustomerscanadjustitasneededwhenthey'rewearingit,tomakeitmorecomfortableforthem.
And!Youshouldbedone!Hooray!(unlessyouweremakingthehakamawithties,thenyourinstructionsarenext…)
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Sewing the Hakama Forthehakamawithties~
Forthistypeofhakama,you'regoingtowanttocuttwo4"widestripsof45"widefabricalso,butdonotsewthemtogether.Instead,findthemiddleofeachoftheties,andmarkthemwithapin.
Leavingthetiesopen(i.e.don’tfoldtheminhalfyet,eitherway)matchthecenterpinwithyourcenterfrontorcenterbackseam.Stitchthetiesdowntothehakama,withrightsidestogether.
Stitchinglocationontheinside… …andwhatitlookslikewiththetiefoldedup
Now,pressthewaistbandup,eventhepartsthataren’tsewndown(theextratielength–we’llbefinishingtheentiretieatonce!)(pic@right)
Next,folddownthetoprawedge,matchingittotherawedgethatyoujustpressedup.Ironthatedgedown,soitlooksnice.(pic@bottom)
Ifyouarealargerperson(withawaistofmorethan38”orso),youmayneedtomakethetieslonger,bycuttingmore4”widestrips,andsewingthem,edgetoedge,tocreatelongerties.(seeabove,withtheelasticwaistedhakama)
Don’tforget–thesetiesneedtogetallthewayaroundyourbody,andtieinaknot,sotheyshouldbeatleast6”longer
thanyourwaistmeasurement.
Fromhere,we’regoingtofinishtheendsoftheties,stitchitalldown,andwe’redone!So,justabitmoretogo…
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Sewing the Hakama Tofinishtheendsoftheties(sotheylookprettyanddon’tfrayallovertheplacewhileyou’rewearingthehakama)isaneasymatteratthispoint.
Simplyfoldintherawendsoftheties,andtrimthecornerslikepictured,sothatnoneofthebulkpokesoutthebottomwhenwesewthisalltogether.And,usetheirontopressthoseedgesdown(you’regettingtheideaofhowimportantironingis,aren’tyou?)intoacrispseam.
Irealizethatthesepicturesarealittlehardtosee,soIhaveoutlinedoverthemtohelpyouseetheedgesofthefabricbetter~
Youcanstitchtheedgedownifyouprefer,oryoucanjustleaveit–itshouldn’tcomepoppingoutaftereverythingissewndown.
Tofinishthiswholethingup,you’regoingtowanttofoldthetiesinhalfagain.Allofthoserawedgesshouldbeontheinside,encased.Thisisaneattrickforfinishingjustaboutanythingthatcanbeputonlikethis,tokeeprawedgesfrombeingoutandvisible.
Ifyouarenotcomfortablewithsewingwithoutusingpins,goaheadandpinthisclosed.Then,you’regoingtowanttotopstitchthewholetie,fromoneendtotheother,closed.Ifyounoticethatonelayerofthefabricis“creeping”,orcreatingpuckers,stop,grabyourseamripper,pulltheseamout,andusepinstoholdthefabricinplace.Ifyoujustignoreit,andthinkyoucanfixitwithaniron,it’sgoingtogetworseandworsealongthelengthofthetie.Noironingcanfixthisproblem–again,riptheseamout,
anddoitagain,withpins,or,ifyouwereusingpins,addmorepins.Andmakesure,whenyou’repinningitdown,you’reonaflatsurfaceandnotpullingonelayerortheother.
Giveitonemoregoodpress,forgoodmeasure,andhooray!Youaremostdefinitelydonewithyourhakama!
Putthemon,havesomefun,showeveryonetheawesomethingyoujustmade!
And,postsomepicturesonlineandletmesee,too!(taeliac.deviantart.com)